Sikkim, Darjeeling and Kolkata: an Unusual First Trip to India
#82
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I'm the "guilty party" who referred to five days (in the context of Kathie saving us from a big bill, and possibly bigger mistake).
We would have originally been there now, but had to change plans until next yr.
For me, impression that staff makes ispart of an experience. We had a similar experience (at Orange County Coorg) where the place was sooo beautiful but we coudnt quite get over the impression of bossy officiousness from some of the staff. As we left (therewas a "last strw" occurrence ) i related my impression to the GM--but in a less calm manner than did Kathie.
So Kathie, i am so glad you conveyed your concerns.You will not doubt save others from experiencing what you did..despite the many positives of Glenburn.
And if the decision is made to stay at Glenburn, it can be done after expressing concerns to Mr Prakash that your experience not be repeated. Kudos to him for a very gracious response.
Even places (hotels restaurants, etc) with perfect reputations need a bit of shaking up, lest they get too complacent.
We would have originally been there now, but had to change plans until next yr.
For me, impression that staff makes ispart of an experience. We had a similar experience (at Orange County Coorg) where the place was sooo beautiful but we coudnt quite get over the impression of bossy officiousness from some of the staff. As we left (therewas a "last strw" occurrence ) i related my impression to the GM--but in a less calm manner than did Kathie.
So Kathie, i am so glad you conveyed your concerns.You will not doubt save others from experiencing what you did..despite the many positives of Glenburn.
And if the decision is made to stay at Glenburn, it can be done after expressing concerns to Mr Prakash that your experience not be repeated. Kudos to him for a very gracious response.
Even places (hotels restaurants, etc) with perfect reputations need a bit of shaking up, lest they get too complacent.
#83
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Cali, I wondered if it was you.
I would always rather be prepared. If you do opt to stay there, you will know that the wine is $5 a glass and that the assigned seating is "optional." Those were thorns in our side, but they don't have to be thorns in your side. That's the wonderful thing about a travel forum like this.
I would always rather be prepared. If you do opt to stay there, you will know that the wine is $5 a glass and that the assigned seating is "optional." Those were thorns in our side, but they don't have to be thorns in your side. That's the wonderful thing about a travel forum like this.
#84
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Great report Kathie as always. Thanks also for the photo link. They are beautiful. We have not been to Sikkim or Darj but looking at your temple photos I was struck with the likeness to Bhutan in the temples. Thanks again.
#85
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Jules, the great voyage is from Burma to Assam to Bhutan to Sikkim to Nepal. Look on a map - it's a logical sweep of wonder. Only politics gets in the way.
Admittedly, getting from Burma to Assam involves some serious back-tracking 'cos you can't cross the border...
It's time for you to fill in the blank spaces.
Admittedly, getting from Burma to Assam involves some serious back-tracking 'cos you can't cross the border...
It's time for you to fill in the blank spaces.
#87
Kathie, I'm just home after surgery a few days ago and had not seen your report until now. Like everyone else, I really enjoyed it. Thanks so much for all the details. I think you were incredibly gracious regarding Glenburn. Sounds like a lovely place, but Najma's controlling attitude would have sent me over the edge.
When - not if - you return to India, I'd strongly recommend a visit to some of the more typical first-time stops, including Delhi, Jaipur and Varanasi. I think you'd love them, too, and they'd be such a contrast to what you saw.
Thanks again for sharing. Loved every minute! Now to check out Cheryl's pictures...
When - not if - you return to India, I'd strongly recommend a visit to some of the more typical first-time stops, including Delhi, Jaipur and Varanasi. I think you'd love them, too, and they'd be such a contrast to what you saw.
Thanks again for sharing. Loved every minute! Now to check out Cheryl's pictures...
#88
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Karen, I hope you are recovering well from your surgery.
Yes, we know we will return to India again (and again). After all, we got 10-year visas. India is so rich in history... there are so many places we'd like to visit in India.
Yes, we know we will return to India again (and again). After all, we got 10-year visas. India is so rich in history... there are so many places we'd like to visit in India.
#91
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Kathie - just reread your report while following along with in the Fodor's India guide. Thinking of doing this itinerary (Gangkok, Pelling, Darjeeling & Calcutta) in October 2012. How many days total was this?
#92
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Craig, it was 14 days, the first day we flew from Bangkok and arrived in Gangtok that evening. The 14th day we flew from Kolkata back to Bangkok.
It was an amazing trip. I think you and Jeane would really enjoy it.
It was an amazing trip. I think you and Jeane would really enjoy it.
#96
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Kathie, looking at this again. I am finding that the flight times make it particularly challenging:
1. I'm thinking 3 nights Gangtok, 1 night Pelling and 3 nights Darjeeling.
2. I realize that Pelling might deserve more time due to the unpredictability of the clouds, but it doesn't seem like there's much going on there. Your thoughts?
3. Darjeeling - I think we'd actually like the toy train. Looking back, if you had to do it again, would you still stay at Glenburn? Is there much else to do in Darjeeling? - it seems you and the folks you spoke to had decidedly negative opinions of the town.
4. It almost seems like the drives themselves may have provided some of the best photo ops - would you say this is accurate?
5. We'd like to spend 3 nights (2-1/2 days) Calcutta and 3 nights in Singapore. The flight schedules are such that we may have to spend a 4th night in Calcutta (with not much time to do much, except have a nice dinner). Do you think your time spent there was about right?
6. Perhaps we could cut out Singapore and do another 3 days there on another trip. If you could apply those 3 days to Pelling, Darjeeling or Gangtok, how would you do it?
1. I'm thinking 3 nights Gangtok, 1 night Pelling and 3 nights Darjeeling.
2. I realize that Pelling might deserve more time due to the unpredictability of the clouds, but it doesn't seem like there's much going on there. Your thoughts?
3. Darjeeling - I think we'd actually like the toy train. Looking back, if you had to do it again, would you still stay at Glenburn? Is there much else to do in Darjeeling? - it seems you and the folks you spoke to had decidedly negative opinions of the town.
4. It almost seems like the drives themselves may have provided some of the best photo ops - would you say this is accurate?
5. We'd like to spend 3 nights (2-1/2 days) Calcutta and 3 nights in Singapore. The flight schedules are such that we may have to spend a 4th night in Calcutta (with not much time to do much, except have a nice dinner). Do you think your time spent there was about right?
6. Perhaps we could cut out Singapore and do another 3 days there on another trip. If you could apply those 3 days to Pelling, Darjeeling or Gangtok, how would you do it?
#97
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Craig, One really is constrained by flight times. we found the flight from Bangkok changing planes in Kolkata and on to Bagdogra worked exceptionally well.
Three nights in Gangtok is a good amount of time. I really think I'd opt for two nights in Pelling not only because of the capriciousness of the mountain views but just for the atmosphere of the place. You can walk from the hotel to the Pemayangtse Monastery which is really lovely. The only other visitors there were small clusters of school children. The other reason to stay for a full day in Pelling (two nights) is so that you don't have two consecutive days of 4-5 hours of driving.
Darjeeling was disappointing after Sikkim. I think if we'd gone the other way, Darjeeling to Pelling to Gangtok, we might have liked Darjeeling more. Sikkim is so clean and beautiful. Darjeeling has the natural beauty, but is filled with trash, even on the trails at Glenburn. Ok, filled with trash is a bit harsh, but there was litter everywhere, even if only candy and snack wrappers along the trails. There is more litter in Darjeeling town. The town was busy, noisy and crowded. There is supposed to be good shopping in Darjeeling town. We only bought pashminas and tea, so can't comment on other shopping.
Glenburn itself is beautiful, with a beautiful setting. You know what the downsides are.
If I was going to do this trip again, I might have gone to Darjeeling first, spent a couple of nights in town at either the Elgin hotel or Windamere, then two or three nights at Glenburn, then on to Pelling for two nights and Gangtok for three nights. I think we would have enjoyed Darjeeling more without the contrast with Sikkim.
We had three nights in Calcutta, which gave us enough time to sample the city. We also would have enjoyed another day there.
The drives do provide lots of photo ops. It's a good thing the drives are so enjoyable, as you spend a lot of time in a car!
Three nights in Gangtok is a good amount of time. I really think I'd opt for two nights in Pelling not only because of the capriciousness of the mountain views but just for the atmosphere of the place. You can walk from the hotel to the Pemayangtse Monastery which is really lovely. The only other visitors there were small clusters of school children. The other reason to stay for a full day in Pelling (two nights) is so that you don't have two consecutive days of 4-5 hours of driving.
Darjeeling was disappointing after Sikkim. I think if we'd gone the other way, Darjeeling to Pelling to Gangtok, we might have liked Darjeeling more. Sikkim is so clean and beautiful. Darjeeling has the natural beauty, but is filled with trash, even on the trails at Glenburn. Ok, filled with trash is a bit harsh, but there was litter everywhere, even if only candy and snack wrappers along the trails. There is more litter in Darjeeling town. The town was busy, noisy and crowded. There is supposed to be good shopping in Darjeeling town. We only bought pashminas and tea, so can't comment on other shopping.
Glenburn itself is beautiful, with a beautiful setting. You know what the downsides are.
If I was going to do this trip again, I might have gone to Darjeeling first, spent a couple of nights in town at either the Elgin hotel or Windamere, then two or three nights at Glenburn, then on to Pelling for two nights and Gangtok for three nights. I think we would have enjoyed Darjeeling more without the contrast with Sikkim.
We had three nights in Calcutta, which gave us enough time to sample the city. We also would have enjoyed another day there.
The drives do provide lots of photo ops. It's a good thing the drives are so enjoyable, as you spend a lot of time in a car!
#98
I really enjoyed riding the toy train up from Kurseong (I'd have ridden it the whole way, but the lower reaches had been washed out), but it certainly isn't for everyone. I haven't checked the guidebooks lately, but while I was at Darjeeling I did a dawn trip to Tiger Hill and visited the monastery at Ghum, the snow leopards, a tea plantation and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and the Everest Museum. I loved staying at the Windamere but I recently checked their website and it looks like the hotel has been poshed up since I was there.