CaliNurse

‘It would be advisable to fly to Cochin from Madurai’ : Interesting advice – I have to consider this in my plan. I did not know that was possible. '

Ger, please read my second posting, which evidently you missed, for more information on the Madurai-Cochi plane route. There you will read that, indeed, it is NOT possible wihout a large expenditure of time and at least one stopover at anotehr airport.

I sense you're perceiving all homestays as somewhat rustic, mosquito-laden dwellings, with no ac. However, whether or not you choose one or two--and I strongly recommend you have at least ONE more personalized/smaller stay experience in India-- this is NOT necessarily the case. It really depends on which "homestay"--there are hundreds throughout India. Some are better than hotels. Some are more like small inns, the owners onsite but NOT necessariy IN the same building. Just as an example, see Philipkutty's website (and numerous reviews of it on assorted websites) on the backwaters/lake near Vaikom. It was one of my favorite "big splurges" anywhere in the world ($225/night then, even at high season, is for me a big splurge in India!)

If you love India, you will be back. So, imho, don't sweat it over Varanasi and seeing it this time.It is out of your way,on oyur current tentative itinerary, and as you say, requires more flying time. Sure it's fascinating, in-your-face India...but there are numerous "quintessential" India experiences. Before you even arrive from the airport to your first destination,you'll see things you've only imagined (for better or worse). And I'll bet before you leave on the outbound flight home, you'll already be planning your next trip!! Varanasi, sould yo decide not to go on this trip, will be on the list for next time.
Agra is right along your route from Jaipur to Delhi, so it DOES make sense to stop there. And there are lovely hotels of the type you like--both very high-end and "just" very good!!

annhig

Ger - as I'm dithering about doing a trip to India, I'm very interested to see what you end up with in your itinerary, and how it works out, so thanks for sharing your planning process with us [and that wonderful thread of links you researched].

Aren't we lucky to have all this help available to us?!

thursdaysd

Just noticed this.

I am another big fan of Varanasi. Rather than flying, consider night trains, which saves daylight time for sightseeing, at least in one direction. There is an express from Delhi - 20:35 to 08:30. For detailed info see: http://seat61.com/India.htm

I am an older solo female traveler and have visited India twice on my own. In 2001 I was there for ten weeks, traveling almost exclusively by train. In 2010, for a six week trip, I used a mix of planes, trains and cars. In 2001 I had no hesitation in walking the streets at night on my own. Thinking about my second trip, which was almost entirely in south India, I think that I mostly ate dinner in my hotels, but I did not consider it unsafe to be on the streets. However, in view of the recent reports of gang rape, I would certainly be more cautious on a future trip, and might reconsider solo travel altogether.

Click on my name for my south Asian TR, including India. In the south I obviously recommend the temple towns, but also enjoyed the Chettinad area and Coorg. I also liked Kochi, in 2001, and stayed at the Malabar House (which was a splurge, but worthwhile).

vp_singh

"I am planning the trip around Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu, as my primary passions are history, architecture and art, and both will fulfil my desires".
In the light of the posters interest, I guess there are certain areas which have better claims than some other cultural-spiritual destinations under discussion . The visible history of Indian art & architectural wealth expresses itself in the incredible number of monuments & temples located throughout India. These can be classified under various themes as Buddhism, Jain, Hindu, Indo-Islamic , Sikh and colonial. In order to sample some of the finest of these expressions your tours may take you to Ajanta & Ellora Caves (near Aurangabad); Buddhist stupas / monasteries located in inhospitable areas of Ladakh, Spiti & Sikkim, are too far flung for the scope of your current itinerary; For Jainism it could be Mount Abu & Ranakpur both near Udaipur; Hindu architecture well expressed in the vaishnavite temples of Orchha & the splendid synthesis of architecture-sculpture of Khajuraho; Indo-Islamic structures are hewn all over the north,central India & in the south, where the wealthy kings of Golconda managed to create great pieces of art.
The Sikh architecture finds expression at the Golden Temple, Amritsar.
The Dravidian style is best expounded in the temples of Madurai, Thanjavur, Mahabalipuram, Rameshwaran and the Belur temples in Karanataka.
The Forts & Palaces add another dimension to your sightseeing.
It may not be possible to do all these at one time, the significant streams can be visited in both north & south.
Happy travels!

OReilly

Thank you all once more for taking the time to be so very helpful.

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Hi Julies

I am really just using Delhi on the first leg as a ‘get over jet-lag’ point and to do some shopping, see a few sites. On the way from Rajasthan to Chennai, I may just transit the same day. Mumbai is a possibility on the way back, depending on flight schedules.

Chochin looks about as ‘chilled out’ as I can cope with - waking around, seeing sites sounds great and relaxing. I am not much of a 'sit around the pool and relax person' as I get stressed when I try just to do nothing

I was considering the train, and may still do so. Again, I am travelling on my own, there are no private rooms, and I would be concerned struggling with luggage etc. Have not ruled it out at the point, and, as my planning evolves, it may make sense.

Yes, I am interested in Heritage hotels, and I have stored your trip report (see my other thread re trip planning for India) and interested in doing some activities (camel ride in the desert sounds excellent and might try to do a cooking course (Indian food is my own forte, and I cook it from scratch).

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June, I had not intended to travel to Jaisalmer due to distance, but once I read about it I could not resist. I have changed my itinerary to include it, staying one night and then another night in Bikaner before hitting Jaipur. Will publish updated later. My trip is getting longer and longer – I think, work allowing, it will be a whole month .
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Hi Calinurse:
Sorry, I missed your comment about limited flights from Madurai, as I am working down the postings. Flights are to Chennai, Mumbai Delhi etc. So, back to original plan.

Yep re a driver. I have already decided to trust my life to one of the excellent tour companies listed above (and now includes Indian Panorama), so I will be looking for them to chauffeur me around. Independent travel is great, but in this case, being by myself in India, I want a ‘fall-back’ mechanism. It would be wonderful if I could get a female, but assume this might be difficult. And yes to the mobile – I MUST have my technology with me.

In Cochin, I want to stay at the Old Harbour Hotel (recommended by yourself and Uh-oh Busted) – looks exactly what I want.

“I sense you're perceiving all homestays as somewhat rustic, mosquito-laden dwellings, with no ac. “. Actually, this is true, so I need to rethink obviously. The place you stayed looks divine, and added to my list, if I decide on the back-waters, which I have always wanted to do, but have a fairly manic terror of mosquitoes because I am dreadfully allergic to them.

Yes, I know I will be back in on a regular basis, so I am not so worried in not experiencing everything in one shot. For the sake of a stress-free holiday, the fewer the airport the better. Agra is still on the list.

Best regards Ger

OReilly

Annhig – we are SO lucky. This is superior advice than one could get from the very best travel agent, as it is current, passionate, thoughtful, customised and given with so much concern for wellbeing of the individual.

Suffice it to say, that when I original thought of this trip, before reading the wonderful trip reports from these lovely people, I want planning for TWO weeks. I am now in negotiations with the boss for FOUR weeks off.

Best .. Ger

dgunbug

Ger - we did 4 weeks in each the north and south. While jaisalmer is amazing, I would caution you against going there for so short a time as it is out of the way and not easy to get to. Again, I would reiterate that there is nothing quite like Varanasi. So, if I were to add a location, it would be there rather than jaisalmer.

I agree with Thursday about the trains. Don't be put off with sharing a compartment. Be sure to get air conditioned first or second class compartment. There may be an all women sleeping train, but I'm not certain there. In any event, we've had lovely interactions on the trains. As for luggage, I hope you will travel lightly - we use a 22 inch carry on and small backpack for incidentals.

dgunbug

Out the backpack or any expensive items by your pillow. Luggage fit under seat. Or you can throw it up in top with you if you have upper bunk and are worried.

julies

We always traveled as a male female couple, so I don't know if I am qualified to answer your question about females and overnight trains. If you reserve early enough, you can get 1AC class. 1AC compartments lock, which 2AC and lower don't. Once in 1AC we were put in a two person car. The other times we were in a 4 person car. Another thing to know about 1AC travel is that often your companions will be army officers or government officials (think men).

I know there are "ladies" waiting rooms at the trtain stations. But, are there ladies cars? I don't know. However, when you buy a train ticket you give them your gender and your age and some of the work on seat assignments in compartments is done manually. So, perhaps you would be put with a group of women or a family rather than males. This all assumes that there would be such a group on the trip you want to take.

thursdaysd

As far as I know, female only compartments are only found on those super packed commuter trains. Long distance trains are mixed sex. I have ridden in 1AC, 2AC and 3AC. Happily 3AC was only once (it was the only option to get to Jaisalmer at the time) as it is too crowded. In 1AC I was the only female, and the others were, as juliesj says, government or business types. 2AC is a lot friendlier, but noisier. The side berths are the best, but I've never figured out how to be sure of getting one.

You should not be "struggling" with your luggage, as you should be traveling light, LOL. My trips are typically 2-4 months, and I travel with one carry on size bag (used to be a backpack but is a wheelie these days), and a day bag big enough to hold all my electronics, pharma and a change of underwear and top. On trains your luggage shares your compartment. There is storage under the lower bunks and over the doors, so not a whole lot of room.

welltraveledbrit

OReilly - Lots of great advice here already. We've been to India multiple times but I have to say the places I'd add to your itinerary would be some of the smaller heritage hotels around Udaipur, this would give you the chance to visit some of the places Mr. Singh mentioned Ranakpur or Kumblagarh etc. We loved Bassi Fort Palace, Ravla Khempur, Deogarh and Rohet gah which is a little further afield. I'd really try to add in a rural heritage hotel. These have always been our favorite stop on out Indian travels.


http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2015/...istory-in.html

inquest

OR,if you could manage a night or two in the Chettinad region of Karaikudi it'll be well worth it.Its a wee little off course between Tanjore and Madurai.Probably,could skip the night in Trichy (a day visit) and drive straight there,a mere 100kms or less.Take a look

http://www.natgeotraveller.in/magazi...-short-breaks/

This region is steeped in tradition.Classic,vintage and the true essence of Tamilnadu preserved and pickled in time.A stay in one of the heritage properties such as Bangala,Chidambara Vilas,the Chettinadu Mansion or the Saratha Vilas,is an experience by itself.The cuisine is legendary,spicy hot and aromatic.South Indian food to die for!!I'm envious.

You could easily skip Thekkady. Its long detour from Madurai and touristy and the Periyar sanctuary has little to offer and disappointing.

thursdaysd

Agree about Chettinad.

See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...-by-chettinad/

CaliNurse

Women-only cars in trains:

Never saw that...in fact, just the opposite, sort of a surprise on the sleeper trains. I was traveling alone, but fortunately, the other folks were a couple and an old "auntie" who had to be awoken when we reached her stop!!

Otoh, the subway/metro train system in Delhi includes women-only cars. I haven't used the subway there, but heard only good things from fellow travelers in New Delhi.

Women drivers:

http://azadfoundation.com/women-on-wheels/

A great enterprise! Ger, you may not be in Delhi long enough to use their services, but they now also drive in Jaipur!!

Question for Thursdaysd, if you see this. Just read your interesting blog about Chettinad. Noticed you first tried stay in Chettinadu Mansion, but it was full and you went to the Bangala. What made you choose the Chettinadur Mansion as first choice? (It is recommended by travel folks I use.also.) I've read that the town/village where it is located (Kannadukathan) is quieter than is Karaikudi. Do you recall if this is correct? As i wrote in first response post, above, there is also a more "upscale" CGHEarth property in Kannadukathan called Visalam.

thursdaysd

@CaliNurse, sorry I really can't remember! I did take a look at the guidebooks I still have from that trip, Fodors just lists the Bangala, and Lonely Planet has a brief paragraph listing the Chettinadu Mansion and Visalam, and calling them palaces, so that's probably why I tried them first as I was splurging for New Year's Eve.

I would not say that Karaikudi was at all busy.

CaliNurse

Thank you, Thursdaysd! The palaces do look amazing. The more I read on this region, and the Chettinad culture and food the more it seems worth a trip off the beaten track...'til it too becomes part of the beaten track.

OReilly

Hello all:

Apologies for the tardy responses – long hours in work I am afraid! I hope I don’t miss anyone out in my responses.
As always, grateful for your responses.

Best regards … Ger
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Thursdaysd:

Thank you, I have downloaded your trip reports and your blog, and look forward to reading both, particularly as we are follow solo female traveller. I appreciate your advice re being cautious, as a lone female traveller.

I am still avoiding Varanasi, because I have to make choices: The more I read of Tamil Nadu, the more passionate I am about spending more time there. But, thank you for another passionate vote for Varanasi.

Interesting that you and others have mentioned the Chettinad area, as I have been researching the area, based on a food programme I watched on BBC. I am trying to build it into to schedules.

Re safety: I explored the option of group, but its not going to work for me. However, I will be careful about decisions to wander around at night on my own. I live in London – there are a few ‘hoods that I would avoid wandering around in the dark. And some in broad daylight. Caution will be the watchword, and I will not venture out without a chaperon.


Re the packing: My preferred packing for India would involve many bearers, camels and donkeys . I do take the point, but I think its highly unlikely I am going to ever get away with less than one medium/large suitcase and one carry-on.

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Mr Singh

Thanks you Sir – you appear to understand my ‘mind-set’. Some comments on your recommendations, which are all wonderful.

I am actually far more drawn to Amritsar, Ajanta & Ellora Caves, than I am to Varanasi. However, I think I will struggle to include any of these in my first trip to India.

Mount Abu & Ranakpur I am trying to build into my itinerary for my stay in Udaipur.

You said: “Hindu architecture well expressed in the vaishnavite temples of Orchha & the splendid synthesis of architecture-sculpture of Khajuraho; Indo-Islamic structures are hewn all over the north,central India & in the south, where the wealthy kings of Golconda managed to create great pieces of art”:

Response from me: Now I think you are planning my NEXT trio to India, but many thanks to you for the recommendations. I will check them out and see if any are possible.

RE Southern Indian Dravidian style – yes, I can see my trip there extending, and all of these areas are on my list – I just need to understand how will manage to include all I want to see.

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welltraveledbrit

Excellent recommendations – many thanks. I have put the sites you suggested into the planning mix, some of which I know of already, some are new – many thanks for the new.
Wonderful website – you are enticing me to explore new areas 

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inquest

Thank you: Great recommendation re Chettinad, and I am checking out that area. I am quite excited about this area, mainly because of the FOOD, which is apparently unique, delicious and extraordinary. Maybe I need more time in the region, or to redesign the itinerary

Thank you for the website.

Regards ... Ger

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Overall
It is not that I feel overwhelmed by India, but I do feel ‘spoilt for choice’: There is so much I want to see and experience, and India has so much to offer.

Its just like a meal at one of the great London Indian restaurants like Benares (http://www.benaresrestaurant.com/). Its a feast for the eyes, smell and taste, and one is inclined to gorge, as everything is so enticing and delicious.

I have to make difficult choices, and, one of the choices I am considering is to avoid staying in ALL larger cities (Delhi, Mumbai, Agra, Chennai, Calcutta etc.) totally, and use them only as connection points to other places.

I am working on the itinerary.

I continue to be thankful for all your wonderful advice.

Best regards … Ger

thursdaysd

I wouldn't put Agra into the same "big city" class as the other four you list, and the Taj really is magnificent. However, I have no problem with skipping three of the other four - I do think that it might be worth experiencing one. My choice would be Kolkata, but I was there for Durga Puja, which no doubt influenced my view, and there are worthwhile sites in Delhi.

I entirely understand the desire for bearers and camels (we're in the wrong century), but still urge you to downsize. I'm posting a link to my packing list below. It's actually three posts (links at the top of the page). It is somewhat out of date, as I have updated the electronics, and my main bag is now a 22 inch wheelie, and not a back pack (although still from Eagle Creek), but what goes in it is otherwise pretty much unchanged:

https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...take-part-one/

welltraveledbrit

Yes, there is too much to do and see in India. Intact that's my whole assessment of the place it's too much of it all, heat and dust, good and bad, lavish luxury, poverty, free, dry, new, old - you get the cliche!

I completely understand avoiding the bigger places, I went to India three times before I made it to Agra. We loved Delhi, but I think that's because we were visiting friends there. I have to say Calcutta was also a highlight of one trip. However, india's a huge place and any trip you take there is all about what you didn't see. But that's ok because there are endless reasons to go back!

IN terms of luggage I travel with a 24 inch suitcase and a fold away Longchamp bag that is "birthed" if I do some shopping. I alway end up leaving India with a lot more than I arrived with. I love the textiles so my advice would be don't load yourself down on the way there because you'll only add to the stuff! However, having said that if you have a car and driver the luggage will be taken care of anyway.

dgunbug

Geri - I always prefer smaller cities, but found Delhi surprisingly fascinating. there are a lot of amazing sites there.