Safari in India to Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Corbett; plus Delhi & Agra
May 6th, 2011, 08:04 PM
#21
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<b><orange>KAHNA</orange> AND <orange>CRICKET<orange></b>
<b><u><orange>K</orange>a<orange>n</orange>h<orange>a</orange>, K<orange>i</orange>s<orange>l</orange>i <orange>s</orange>e<orange>ct</orange>i<orange>o</orange>n: </b></u>
Kisli is generally more crowded with more lodges and vehicles than Mukki. Animal density also tends to be higher.
Renowned naturalist Rajendra (Rajan) Jhariya and driver Seren picked me up from the train in Jabalpur. Our first afternoon out, we waited for 90 minutes in an area where Rajan, along with 15 other vehicles, believed a tiger could appear, and it did. My first tiger sighting was an 18 month old cub at a distance under a tree. Then the cub’s father appeared from the opposite direction. The regal and relaxed demeanor of this dominant male reminded of Jim Corbett’s description of the tiger as “a large hearted gentleman with endless courage.”
As the light faded, the male tiger walked past two male peacocks, undisturbed by his presence. Tigers and peacocks--that is the stuff of Rudyard Kipling! My awe for this park continued throughout my 6 days here.
In addition to providing excellent guiding, Rajan kindly invited me into his home a few times to use his Internet, which I appreciated. Plus he took some great pictures with the camera I let him use. I’d recommend that practice of sharing an extra camera with your naturalist, if they are in agreement. His tremendous enthusiasm never waned, even when our outing in the park meant he missed most of India’s at bat in the India-Pakistan Cricket World Cup Semi-finals.
With a start time of 2:30 pm, the match lasted until about 11:00 pm, including a 45-minute break. So at least Rajan and the other naturalists/drivers got to see the last part of the game.
At Tuli Tiger Lodge, they set up a TV in the spa for staff and any guests interested in watching the India-Pakistan semi-final. I asked the bar tender what drink goes with a cricket semi-final and he produced a Vodka Gimlet. The Gimlet and I cheered with about a dozen staff members for wickets #1 and #2 by Pakistan, but I didn’t understand what I was cheering for until wicket #3. A British fan of the sport stopped by briefly and gave me some pointers, along with his disapproval of the new “hip” version of cricket, where matches do not last five days and uniforms are not entirely white. We never got to what he thought of the vuvuzelas.
I took a break from the spa/sports bar for my evening meal in the restaurant. I had just sampled my soup when I heard what sounded like shots near the perimeter of our lodge. Normally I would be concerned, but under these circumstances I surmised it was merely the result of wicket #4 and resumed my meal. Shortly thereafter the waiter confirmed my speculations with enthusiasm.
After dinner, I was able to watch the thrilling conclusion, where the Indians (aka Men in Blue) bowled very well and won. Celebrations of the final score, India <b><blue>260/9</blue></b> Pakistan <b><blue>231/10,</blue></b> were still going on as I headed off to bed.
Besides a spa that converted to a sports bar for the Cricket World Cup, Tuli Tiger had lovely grounds with a large pond next to the restaurant. Rooms were in groups of 4, two at balcony level and 2 at garden level. My garden level room, which was part of the Termite Mound group of 4 was spacious and very attractive. The Termite Mound block would be ideal for a family with young kids who might want to play in the small playground right across from it.
There was some good bird activity and it was about 12 minutes from the Kisli park gate, now called the Katia gate.
Meals were buffet style with several choices of Indian dishes and once in a while a pasta entrée . The manager offered to have the chef prepare a dish to order if I wished, but there was no need with the excellent choices offered.
Though I dined alone, I had plenty of dinner conversation, so much that I had to be careful my chapatis did not get cold while I was visiting. All the waiters and the resident naturalist stopped by the table to chat briefly about sightings or the park. I was treated like a celebrity—or perhaps a member of the royal family. And once they found out about my attendance at the semi-final match with my Gimlet, then we had the wide world of cricket to discuss as well. On that topic I mostly just listened and nodded.
Of the places I stayed, Tuli Tiger was the fanciest, and I was just in the lodge part. They also had a tented camp section that the manager told me was the 2nd best tented camp in India. I walked around that area and it was more secluded and elegant. Tuli Tiger, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
<b><u><orange>K</orange>a<orange>n</orange>h<orange>a</orange>, K<orange>i</orange>s<orange>l</orange>i <orange>s</orange>e<orange>ct</orange>i<orange>o</orange>n: </b></u>
Kisli is generally more crowded with more lodges and vehicles than Mukki. Animal density also tends to be higher.
Renowned naturalist Rajendra (Rajan) Jhariya and driver Seren picked me up from the train in Jabalpur. Our first afternoon out, we waited for 90 minutes in an area where Rajan, along with 15 other vehicles, believed a tiger could appear, and it did. My first tiger sighting was an 18 month old cub at a distance under a tree. Then the cub’s father appeared from the opposite direction. The regal and relaxed demeanor of this dominant male reminded of Jim Corbett’s description of the tiger as “a large hearted gentleman with endless courage.”
As the light faded, the male tiger walked past two male peacocks, undisturbed by his presence. Tigers and peacocks--that is the stuff of Rudyard Kipling! My awe for this park continued throughout my 6 days here.
In addition to providing excellent guiding, Rajan kindly invited me into his home a few times to use his Internet, which I appreciated. Plus he took some great pictures with the camera I let him use. I’d recommend that practice of sharing an extra camera with your naturalist, if they are in agreement. His tremendous enthusiasm never waned, even when our outing in the park meant he missed most of India’s at bat in the India-Pakistan Cricket World Cup Semi-finals.
With a start time of 2:30 pm, the match lasted until about 11:00 pm, including a 45-minute break. So at least Rajan and the other naturalists/drivers got to see the last part of the game.
At Tuli Tiger Lodge, they set up a TV in the spa for staff and any guests interested in watching the India-Pakistan semi-final. I asked the bar tender what drink goes with a cricket semi-final and he produced a Vodka Gimlet. The Gimlet and I cheered with about a dozen staff members for wickets #1 and #2 by Pakistan, but I didn’t understand what I was cheering for until wicket #3. A British fan of the sport stopped by briefly and gave me some pointers, along with his disapproval of the new “hip” version of cricket, where matches do not last five days and uniforms are not entirely white. We never got to what he thought of the vuvuzelas.
I took a break from the spa/sports bar for my evening meal in the restaurant. I had just sampled my soup when I heard what sounded like shots near the perimeter of our lodge. Normally I would be concerned, but under these circumstances I surmised it was merely the result of wicket #4 and resumed my meal. Shortly thereafter the waiter confirmed my speculations with enthusiasm.
After dinner, I was able to watch the thrilling conclusion, where the Indians (aka Men in Blue) bowled very well and won. Celebrations of the final score, India <b><blue>260/9</blue></b> Pakistan <b><blue>231/10,</blue></b> were still going on as I headed off to bed.
Besides a spa that converted to a sports bar for the Cricket World Cup, Tuli Tiger had lovely grounds with a large pond next to the restaurant. Rooms were in groups of 4, two at balcony level and 2 at garden level. My garden level room, which was part of the Termite Mound group of 4 was spacious and very attractive. The Termite Mound block would be ideal for a family with young kids who might want to play in the small playground right across from it.
There was some good bird activity and it was about 12 minutes from the Kisli park gate, now called the Katia gate.
Meals were buffet style with several choices of Indian dishes and once in a while a pasta entrée . The manager offered to have the chef prepare a dish to order if I wished, but there was no need with the excellent choices offered.
Though I dined alone, I had plenty of dinner conversation, so much that I had to be careful my chapatis did not get cold while I was visiting. All the waiters and the resident naturalist stopped by the table to chat briefly about sightings or the park. I was treated like a celebrity—or perhaps a member of the royal family. And once they found out about my attendance at the semi-final match with my Gimlet, then we had the wide world of cricket to discuss as well. On that topic I mostly just listened and nodded.
Of the places I stayed, Tuli Tiger was the fanciest, and I was just in the lodge part. They also had a tented camp section that the manager told me was the 2nd best tented camp in India. I walked around that area and it was more secluded and elegant. Tuli Tiger, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
May 6th, 2011, 08:15 PM
#22
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<b><u><orange>K</orange>a<orange>n</orange>h<orange>a</orange>, M<orange>u</orange>k<orange>k</orange>i <orange>s</orange>e<orange>ct</orange>i<orange>o</orange>n: </b></u>
Mukki generally has fewer guests and vehicles, and fewer but more expensive accommodations than Kisli. The wildlife density is less in Mukki than Kisli. But dhole sightings were more common, at least during my stay.
In Mukki my naturalist was Ashok, Rajan’s brother, and equally renowned naturalist who took over the camera that Rajan had used. Seren remained our talented driver. The transfer/game drive between Kisli and Mukki took about 3 hours and produced one of our private tigers—the mother of three 18-month old cubs we had viewed earlier. It also took us to a lookout point and tower and to the infrequently visited Bishaupura Meadows, inhabited by the elusive four-horned antelope, the chousingha. We were lucky to see one.
As we were enjoying the chousingha, Sri Lanka was batting in the finals of the Cricket World Cup and Ashok and Seren were still a couple of hours away from settling in to watch this spectacle, which had shut down much of India. To their credit, they remained focused on nature and wildlife and we did not rush or shorten our afternoon transfer and game drive.
When we arrived at Royal Tiger, Manager Narren greeted me and invited me to join him for supper. This hospitable gesture was elevated to new heights considering that the India-Sri Lanka final match of the Cricket World Cup was playing as we dined. I kept telling Narren to feel free to excuse himself and go check the score as often as he wished. I wasn’t sure where there might be a TV, but figured they must have one turned on somewhere. He declined my invitation to step out, but lamented that after Pakistan’s formidable 274 points, India was not faring well at the moment with an early 2 wickets and only 30 points.
My cursory reading of the sports sections in the days leading up to the final match saved me from despair because I knew the tremendous depth of India’s batters and that two of Sri Lanka’s best bowlers were out with injuries. And to think 5 days earlier I thought cricket was a noisy insect.
I went to bed not knowing the outcome of the match and I must have slept soundly through celebrations that followed the final score: Sri Lanka <b><blue>274/6 </b></blue> India <b><blue>277/4.</b></blue>
Prior to leaving home, Narob from Fodors invited me to lunch at the lovely Chitvan Jungle Resort, where she and her husband were staying. Thanks to the chauffeur service of Ashok, we had a delightful lunch and visit and I learned about Narob’s fascinating experiences on their month-long journey through India.
My own lodge, Royal Tiger, offered basic, clean accommodations with good food, and a most hospitable manager. It was very close to the Mukki gate, maybe 7 minutes. The grounds were spacious enough that the morning after my arrival, which had been in the pitch dark, I needed assistance finding where to board the vehicle. Royal Tiger, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
Mukki generally has fewer guests and vehicles, and fewer but more expensive accommodations than Kisli. The wildlife density is less in Mukki than Kisli. But dhole sightings were more common, at least during my stay.
In Mukki my naturalist was Ashok, Rajan’s brother, and equally renowned naturalist who took over the camera that Rajan had used. Seren remained our talented driver. The transfer/game drive between Kisli and Mukki took about 3 hours and produced one of our private tigers—the mother of three 18-month old cubs we had viewed earlier. It also took us to a lookout point and tower and to the infrequently visited Bishaupura Meadows, inhabited by the elusive four-horned antelope, the chousingha. We were lucky to see one.
As we were enjoying the chousingha, Sri Lanka was batting in the finals of the Cricket World Cup and Ashok and Seren were still a couple of hours away from settling in to watch this spectacle, which had shut down much of India. To their credit, they remained focused on nature and wildlife and we did not rush or shorten our afternoon transfer and game drive.
When we arrived at Royal Tiger, Manager Narren greeted me and invited me to join him for supper. This hospitable gesture was elevated to new heights considering that the India-Sri Lanka final match of the Cricket World Cup was playing as we dined. I kept telling Narren to feel free to excuse himself and go check the score as often as he wished. I wasn’t sure where there might be a TV, but figured they must have one turned on somewhere. He declined my invitation to step out, but lamented that after Pakistan’s formidable 274 points, India was not faring well at the moment with an early 2 wickets and only 30 points.
My cursory reading of the sports sections in the days leading up to the final match saved me from despair because I knew the tremendous depth of India’s batters and that two of Sri Lanka’s best bowlers were out with injuries. And to think 5 days earlier I thought cricket was a noisy insect.
I went to bed not knowing the outcome of the match and I must have slept soundly through celebrations that followed the final score: Sri Lanka <b><blue>274/6 </b></blue> India <b><blue>277/4.</b></blue>
Prior to leaving home, Narob from Fodors invited me to lunch at the lovely Chitvan Jungle Resort, where she and her husband were staying. Thanks to the chauffeur service of Ashok, we had a delightful lunch and visit and I learned about Narob’s fascinating experiences on their month-long journey through India.
My own lodge, Royal Tiger, offered basic, clean accommodations with good food, and a most hospitable manager. It was very close to the Mukki gate, maybe 7 minutes. The grounds were spacious enough that the morning after my arrival, which had been in the pitch dark, I needed assistance finding where to board the vehicle. Royal Tiger, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
May 6th, 2011, 08:26 PM
#23
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<b><u><orange>The </orange>general <orange>safari</orange> routine <orange>for</orange> Kanha <orange>in</orange> April:</b></u>
Depart lodge at 5:15 or 5:30 am. Coffee, tea, and biscuits were available. Arrive at the park gate and then wait in the queue as other vehicles arrived until the gate opened at 5:45 am. Morning game drive until about 8:00 or 9:00. Then it was time for breakfast.
At Kisli breakfast was at a central compound. Packed breakfasts included a couple of hard boiled eggs, banana, orange, juice, sandwiches that might contain an omelet or tomato or cheese, and samosa-like finger food. All food was eaten inside a structure, to avoid aggressive crows outside, with lots of tables.
This compound also had an interesting and smartly constructed natural history museum and a 10 minute realistically animated “night in the jungle” show in a dark room that was clever for all ages, but would really appeal to kids, though not too young. The 2- and 3-year olds who attended during my showing were terrified and cried throughout.
There was a clean bathroom available with western and squat toilets and an ever present attendant who appreciated tips.
At Mukki the packed breakfast was served outside on the hood/bonnet of the vehicle. Birds were not a problem in Mukki. There was no compound with a museum in Mukki. There were no bathrooms but there was a straw fence for privacy.
At breakfast you find out if a tiger show is possible, based on whether the mahouts located any tigers that day, and you pay for it then.
After breakfast, the game drive continues and if you are doing the tiger show, you arrive at that point in time for your turn on the elephant.
Vehicles needed to be out of the park at 11:00 I believe.
Lunch back at the lodge, relax, use the pool, etc.
In Kisli depart again at 2:45 for the gate which opened at 3:00 pm; and in Mukki depart again at 3:45 pm for the gate which opened at 4:00 pm. Stay in the park until 6 pm. No tiger show in the afternoon.
Depart lodge at 5:15 or 5:30 am. Coffee, tea, and biscuits were available. Arrive at the park gate and then wait in the queue as other vehicles arrived until the gate opened at 5:45 am. Morning game drive until about 8:00 or 9:00. Then it was time for breakfast.
At Kisli breakfast was at a central compound. Packed breakfasts included a couple of hard boiled eggs, banana, orange, juice, sandwiches that might contain an omelet or tomato or cheese, and samosa-like finger food. All food was eaten inside a structure, to avoid aggressive crows outside, with lots of tables.
This compound also had an interesting and smartly constructed natural history museum and a 10 minute realistically animated “night in the jungle” show in a dark room that was clever for all ages, but would really appeal to kids, though not too young. The 2- and 3-year olds who attended during my showing were terrified and cried throughout.
There was a clean bathroom available with western and squat toilets and an ever present attendant who appreciated tips.
At Mukki the packed breakfast was served outside on the hood/bonnet of the vehicle. Birds were not a problem in Mukki. There was no compound with a museum in Mukki. There were no bathrooms but there was a straw fence for privacy.
At breakfast you find out if a tiger show is possible, based on whether the mahouts located any tigers that day, and you pay for it then.
After breakfast, the game drive continues and if you are doing the tiger show, you arrive at that point in time for your turn on the elephant.
Vehicles needed to be out of the park at 11:00 I believe.
Lunch back at the lodge, relax, use the pool, etc.
In Kisli depart again at 2:45 for the gate which opened at 3:00 pm; and in Mukki depart again at 3:45 pm for the gate which opened at 4:00 pm. Stay in the park until 6 pm. No tiger show in the afternoon.
May 6th, 2011, 08:45 PM
#24
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<b><u><orange>THERE</orange> IS <orange>MORE </orange>THAN <orange>ONE</orange> WAY <orange>TO</orange> MOUNT <orange>AN</orange> ELEPHANT:</b></u>
I know of three ways and employed two of them.
#1 A ladder can be leaned against the dangling wooden footrest on the elephant saddle. Make sure the driver or someone keeps the slanted ladder from sliding along the dusty ground by placing a foot in front of it at the base to prevent any slippage. The bigger the rider, the more important that procedure, from what I observed.
#2 Another way is to climb up on top of the Gypsy and then make the step onto the dangling wooden footrest and into the wooden box that serves as the seat on the elephant. In Kanha, I found this method to be preferable because it was quick and easy. What I didn’t realize was that Kanha elephants are smaller than those in Bandhavgarh.
Fast forward to my first tiger show in Bandhavgarh where the boarding procedure was from the top of the Gypsy. I was urged to prepare my gear immediately and hurry onto the elephant because the tiger was moving and we had no time to spare. The elephant was quickly approaching with two riders already aboard and by the dimensions of the towering beast and of my short legs I could tell boarding might pose a challenge. Because time was of the essence, as a precaution I issued the order to driver Puneet, “You can push my butt.”
In the mad scramble to ascend the ele speedily, I don’t recall if my butt required pushing or not, but I do know it landed safely in the wooden seat and we were off. Unfortunately the tiger we were hoping to see did not stick around.
The odds of not seeing the tiger in the tiger show increase if you are one of the last participants. However, the viewing time can be much longer (20 minutes rather than 5-10) if you are last, so there is a tradeoff. I both benefitted from doing the last trip and lost out.
If 5 or even 20 minutes is way too short of time on the elephant for your liking, half day or several day elephant safaris can be done in Corbett. I did not do any elephant outings in Corbett but think they would be appealing. I met an Indian couple who had been coming to Corbett for 30-some years and always did lengthy elephant safaris.
#3 In Corbett I saw several permanent stands with easy to climb stairs. The elephant would stand next to these.
For the 3 tiger shows in the Kisli section of Kanha, I had my own elephant. As we headed out I felt rather like royalty, in my private wooden box. I even gave the queen’s wave, with cupped hand and a brief twist of my wrist, to Rajan as the elephant departed. Mukki did tiger shows, but I preferred to look for wild dogs in that region. In Bandhavgarh I shared the elephant with others both times and did not perform the queen’s wave.
For the tiger show wear a Croakie or similar on your sunglasses or leave them behind. On the first tiger show my sunglasses ended up on the ground, knocked off my face by a branch. After I was delivered back to the vehicle, the mahout and ele returned to get them. I left the sunglasses in the vehicle after that. Though I just felt like a queen, if any actual queens go for an elephant ride, I’d suggest the tiara be left behind as well.
Photography from the back of the elephant can be difficult due to the movement and shade of the jungle. I was thrilled with the photos from my Sony DSC HX1 because I used a special button available on this model. It is the “anti-motion blur” button shown as a little hand with squiggly parentheses around it. All decent P&Ss now have image stabilization, but this is in addition to that standard feature. The camera takes 6 photos and then combines them somehow to avoid the blur. It takes about 8 seconds for the combining to happen, so there is a lag. But without this feature I’m sure most of the tiger show photos would have been very low quality and hardly worth saving. Maybe this is a standard feature on many cameras, but I had not seen it before. It’s certainly something to consider if you plan to photograph tigers from an elephant and want decent results.
I know of three ways and employed two of them.
#1 A ladder can be leaned against the dangling wooden footrest on the elephant saddle. Make sure the driver or someone keeps the slanted ladder from sliding along the dusty ground by placing a foot in front of it at the base to prevent any slippage. The bigger the rider, the more important that procedure, from what I observed.
#2 Another way is to climb up on top of the Gypsy and then make the step onto the dangling wooden footrest and into the wooden box that serves as the seat on the elephant. In Kanha, I found this method to be preferable because it was quick and easy. What I didn’t realize was that Kanha elephants are smaller than those in Bandhavgarh.
Fast forward to my first tiger show in Bandhavgarh where the boarding procedure was from the top of the Gypsy. I was urged to prepare my gear immediately and hurry onto the elephant because the tiger was moving and we had no time to spare. The elephant was quickly approaching with two riders already aboard and by the dimensions of the towering beast and of my short legs I could tell boarding might pose a challenge. Because time was of the essence, as a precaution I issued the order to driver Puneet, “You can push my butt.”
In the mad scramble to ascend the ele speedily, I don’t recall if my butt required pushing or not, but I do know it landed safely in the wooden seat and we were off. Unfortunately the tiger we were hoping to see did not stick around.
The odds of not seeing the tiger in the tiger show increase if you are one of the last participants. However, the viewing time can be much longer (20 minutes rather than 5-10) if you are last, so there is a tradeoff. I both benefitted from doing the last trip and lost out.
If 5 or even 20 minutes is way too short of time on the elephant for your liking, half day or several day elephant safaris can be done in Corbett. I did not do any elephant outings in Corbett but think they would be appealing. I met an Indian couple who had been coming to Corbett for 30-some years and always did lengthy elephant safaris.
#3 In Corbett I saw several permanent stands with easy to climb stairs. The elephant would stand next to these.
For the 3 tiger shows in the Kisli section of Kanha, I had my own elephant. As we headed out I felt rather like royalty, in my private wooden box. I even gave the queen’s wave, with cupped hand and a brief twist of my wrist, to Rajan as the elephant departed. Mukki did tiger shows, but I preferred to look for wild dogs in that region. In Bandhavgarh I shared the elephant with others both times and did not perform the queen’s wave.
For the tiger show wear a Croakie or similar on your sunglasses or leave them behind. On the first tiger show my sunglasses ended up on the ground, knocked off my face by a branch. After I was delivered back to the vehicle, the mahout and ele returned to get them. I left the sunglasses in the vehicle after that. Though I just felt like a queen, if any actual queens go for an elephant ride, I’d suggest the tiara be left behind as well.
Photography from the back of the elephant can be difficult due to the movement and shade of the jungle. I was thrilled with the photos from my Sony DSC HX1 because I used a special button available on this model. It is the “anti-motion blur” button shown as a little hand with squiggly parentheses around it. All decent P&Ss now have image stabilization, but this is in addition to that standard feature. The camera takes 6 photos and then combines them somehow to avoid the blur. It takes about 8 seconds for the combining to happen, so there is a lag. But without this feature I’m sure most of the tiger show photos would have been very low quality and hardly worth saving. Maybe this is a standard feature on many cameras, but I had not seen it before. It’s certainly something to consider if you plan to photograph tigers from an elephant and want decent results.
May 7th, 2011, 10:13 AM
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Thanks for the comparison with African safaris. I found my enjoyment of safaris in Sri Lanka was very dependent on the guides. Seems obvious, but there is very little emphasis placed on the quality of the guides. I see you were careful enough in your planning to include expert naturalists. I'll have to insist on this for future trips to the sub-continent.
May 7th, 2011, 03:43 PM
#26
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I agree, the guides make such a difference. You cannot control the weather or the animals, but you can control that all important link between you and what you invested so much to see, and that is the guide.
<b><u><orange>TIGERS, </orange> MAHUA <orange>WINE, </orange> AND<orange> NOTHING </orange>AT <orange>ALL</orange></b></u>
In April the yellow Mahua Flowers were dropping from the trees everywhere and local people could be seen gathering them. The honey from the flowers is used to make a wine that is potent and popular in equal parts. Brothers Rajan and Ashok both told me this same story about Mahua wine: When friends and families gather, the guests could be served many vegetable dishes, mutton, chicken, chipatis, fruit, and desserts; but if there is no Mahua wine, the guests will likely comment, “We had nothing. Nothing at all.”
Likewise, Rajan and Ashok both continued the story: Visitors to the parks may see many species of monkeys and deer, and even rare animals such as the jungle cat or sloth bear, but if they do not see the tiger, their response to, “Did you see anything?” is often “No, nothing. Nothing at all.”
<b><u><orange>TIGERS, </orange> MAHUA <orange>WINE, </orange> AND<orange> NOTHING </orange>AT <orange>ALL</orange></b></u>
In April the yellow Mahua Flowers were dropping from the trees everywhere and local people could be seen gathering them. The honey from the flowers is used to make a wine that is potent and popular in equal parts. Brothers Rajan and Ashok both told me this same story about Mahua wine: When friends and families gather, the guests could be served many vegetable dishes, mutton, chicken, chipatis, fruit, and desserts; but if there is no Mahua wine, the guests will likely comment, “We had nothing. Nothing at all.”
Likewise, Rajan and Ashok both continued the story: Visitors to the parks may see many species of monkeys and deer, and even rare animals such as the jungle cat or sloth bear, but if they do not see the tiger, their response to, “Did you see anything?” is often “No, nothing. Nothing at all.”
May 7th, 2011, 04:29 PM
#27
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<b><orange>BANDHAVGARH</orange> TIGER <orange>RESRVE</orange></b>
After a final shortened morning drive in Mukki, Ashok and I departed, along with the transfer driver for Bandhavgarh. From Royal Tiger in Mukki, Kanha to the Bandhavgarh entrance gate, it took 5 hours and 20 minutes of actual driving time, not including our lunch at a restaurant, and another 7 minutes to get to Nature Heritage Lodge. Half way through the transfer, the roads became more winding and hilly and I realized I would need to pop half a Bonine to avoid car sickness.
For Ashok (and the driver) the round trip amounted to over 10 hours of road travel, all to ensure I had no problems during the trip or when I checked in to Nature Heritage. Ashok’s assistance at a crowded ATM machine in Mandla, a citiy between Kanha and Bandhavgarh, was very helpful and it was reassuring to have him along for the ride and visit with him.
In Bandhavgarh there are four sections:
Tala--highest tiger density, 32 visitor vehicles allowed in 3 Zones (B, C, D). That’s where I went.
Magdhi--66 vehicles allowed
Khitauli--32 vehicles allowed
Panpatha Sanctuary that I was told was near the buffer zone and I don’t know how many vehicles are allowed there.
In Tala, Zone A was not currently accessible. Zones B and C had 25 km each of road and Zone D’s road was 20 km. The B in Zone B must stand for Bouncy or Better secure your sports Bra, ladies!
<b><u><orange>The </orange>general <orange>safari</orange> routine <orange>for </orange>Bandhavgarh <orange>in</orange> April: </b></u>
Depart lodge at 5:30 am. Coffee, tea, and biscuits were available. Arrive at the park gate and then wait in the queue as other vehicles arrived until the gate opened at 6:00 am. Puneet was always my driver (and a very attentive one) and our naturalist would differ from game drive to game drive.
Each vehicle is randomly assigned to two of the three tracks for an outing (B, C, or D. A was out of commission during my visit). That meant there were 10-11 vehicles per track (not the 40-some that were the stuff of past horror stories). There was no contesting the route assignment in the morning. In the afternoon if the two routes were the same as the morning, it was possible to get new ones. But other than extra bumps in the B Zone, no route appeared better or worse than the others.
Not only are the routes assigned, but vehicles are required to stay several minutes apart. The advantage of this rule is that as you drive through the park, no other cars are usually visible. The disadvantage is if you wish to linger at something other than a tiger, you will be urged to move on after a couple of minutes. I managed to enjoy some nice sightings of sambur, langur monkeys, an Adjutant Stork, a Night Jar, and a nesting Brown Fish Owl, along with scenery and other things, while still adhering to the rules. This “mind and maintain the gap” law seemed to be relaxed after the vehicles from the zone had seen a tiger.
There is a center point where vehicles congregate between their two assigned tracks and this is where you sign up for the tiger show, stretch your legs, and use the bathroom. For ladies there were 3 porcelain squat toilets behind a straw fence.
I made an error here that could have come back to haunt me. Since we had stopped mid-morning in Kanha for breakfast each day, I mistakenly thought our halt at the center point was breakfast time. There were outdoor grills enclosed by fencing, which I assumed were part of the breakfast preparation, since we had not brought a packed breakfast. My driver, Puneet, asked me if I would like some Pakoras for breakfast. I clearly heard the word breakfast, but did not catch the Pakora part, not that it would have mattered. I replied, “Sure,” to the Pakoras and Puneet returned with a bowl full of tasty bite sized fried batter. I ate it all.
We continued on our game drive and returned back to the lodge about 10:30 am and breakfast was served shortly thereafter, which made me wonder, “So what was that I ate in the park?” It was then I realized it was something I probably should not have eaten, since I was limiting myself to only food from the lodges or restaurants chosen by my guides for hygiene reasons. The Pakoras had tasted good and fortunately I suffered no ill effects. I declined the mid-morning serving of Pakoras on future drives.
Lunch at Nature Heritage began about 1:00 pm. I didn’t need two heavy meals just a couple of hours apart so I usually had either just breakfast or lunch. Or I’d have only soup for lunch. Once I had just two bananas for lunch.
Depart again at 3:00 for the 3:30 to 6:45 afternoon game drive. No tiger shows in the afternoon.
On my first morning, I missed a male tiger sighting by about 10 minutes and was not successful during the tiger show. “No big deal,” I figured, “I’ll have plenty more chances.”
During the following two and a half days of my stay, an unusual phenomenon occurred: the tigers vanished from Bandhavgarh. The naturalists had not experienced disappearing tigers during that time of year before, though they had in December. I asked about phases of the moon or shifts in weather, but nothing explained the sudden lack of tigers.
For five drives, including one tiger show, no tigers in Bandhavgarh. In Kanha I had visited with a long-time park and wildlife advocate. She recounted how twice in Kanha’s history the tigers had disappeared for about a week, pug marks and all. The park officials were so concerned that they contacted members of the local Baiga tribe and asked them to perform a ritual to ask the tigers to make themselves visible once again. Apparently it worked—both times.
I was ready to ring up the head Baiga and request he make a hasty road trip to Bandhavgarh and talk to the tigers. Intellectualy I knew that demands of tigers or Baigas, or of guarantees, are out of place when dealing with nature . But emotionally, 90 minutes into my sixth and final game drive in Bandhavgarh without seeing a tiger, I could sense the growing presence of my “inner pout.”
Over the course of the previous few outings, I kept interpreting various events as a lucky sign that a tiger would appear: the rustling of a monitor through dried leaves; the fact that Guarav who came to join me for my last two days in Bandhavgarh had the same camera and binoculars as I did; the audible prayers from one of the naturalists as we departed. None of these provided sufficient luck, though.
Then, with an hour and a half gone on the last drive, I spotted a pair of barking deer and was about to call them out as my latest potential good luck symbol when Driver Puneet and the naturalist announced with great excitement, “Tiger, tiger, tiger!”
That was an accurate description as there were three grown cubs ambling along. After Puneet had stopped the Gypsy for photos, he turned around and gently grabbed my arm, signaling his relief that I would not leave after a four night stay in Bandhavgarh without seeing a tiger. There were about 9 other vehicles in the vicinity and the tigers were visible for 15 minutes. A very good sighting.
An hour later I saw a tiger coming down the road and we had a private viewing for the few minutes that it approached us and then slipped into the jungle. Examining the photos afterward revealed one the tiger’s eyes was injured, and I hoped not missing. The tiger had been moving normally, though, a positive sign.
We joined another line of about 8 vehicles to see a tiger walk across a creek on a log through thick foliage and then disappear. Later Guarav and I shared an elephant with two other people for a view of that same tiger, sound asleep. While photos were poor due to the darkness of the tiger’s jungle retreat, the sound of its snoring could be heard loud and clear. I was glad the tiger felt undisturbed enough to sleep so soundly that it snored. That was the final audio-visual of a tiger in Bandhavgarh and it wrapped up an action packed and exciting three hours of tigers
Nature Heritage is a really nice lodge, active with birds. All the room locations seemed equally good. The first afternoon that I was out looking for tigers (and missed them), one came looking for me and apparently could be seen in the open area behind the lodge. The staff generously offered me the use of their Internet, when it worked, for some quick emails home. From omelets at breakfast to gulab jamun (dessert) after the evening meal, the food was great. Nature Heritage, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
Even in Bandhavgarh seeing tigers is a special privilege and cannot be taken for granted. I had initially toyed with the idea of 3 nights in Bandhavgarh, thinking that would certainly be enough time to see some cats there. I’m glad I stayed 4 nights or I would have missed a tiger in Bandhavgarh because with tigers, nothing is certain.
After a final shortened morning drive in Mukki, Ashok and I departed, along with the transfer driver for Bandhavgarh. From Royal Tiger in Mukki, Kanha to the Bandhavgarh entrance gate, it took 5 hours and 20 minutes of actual driving time, not including our lunch at a restaurant, and another 7 minutes to get to Nature Heritage Lodge. Half way through the transfer, the roads became more winding and hilly and I realized I would need to pop half a Bonine to avoid car sickness.
For Ashok (and the driver) the round trip amounted to over 10 hours of road travel, all to ensure I had no problems during the trip or when I checked in to Nature Heritage. Ashok’s assistance at a crowded ATM machine in Mandla, a citiy between Kanha and Bandhavgarh, was very helpful and it was reassuring to have him along for the ride and visit with him.
In Bandhavgarh there are four sections:
Tala--highest tiger density, 32 visitor vehicles allowed in 3 Zones (B, C, D). That’s where I went.
Magdhi--66 vehicles allowed
Khitauli--32 vehicles allowed
Panpatha Sanctuary that I was told was near the buffer zone and I don’t know how many vehicles are allowed there.
In Tala, Zone A was not currently accessible. Zones B and C had 25 km each of road and Zone D’s road was 20 km. The B in Zone B must stand for Bouncy or Better secure your sports Bra, ladies!
<b><u><orange>The </orange>general <orange>safari</orange> routine <orange>for </orange>Bandhavgarh <orange>in</orange> April: </b></u>
Depart lodge at 5:30 am. Coffee, tea, and biscuits were available. Arrive at the park gate and then wait in the queue as other vehicles arrived until the gate opened at 6:00 am. Puneet was always my driver (and a very attentive one) and our naturalist would differ from game drive to game drive.
Each vehicle is randomly assigned to two of the three tracks for an outing (B, C, or D. A was out of commission during my visit). That meant there were 10-11 vehicles per track (not the 40-some that were the stuff of past horror stories). There was no contesting the route assignment in the morning. In the afternoon if the two routes were the same as the morning, it was possible to get new ones. But other than extra bumps in the B Zone, no route appeared better or worse than the others.
Not only are the routes assigned, but vehicles are required to stay several minutes apart. The advantage of this rule is that as you drive through the park, no other cars are usually visible. The disadvantage is if you wish to linger at something other than a tiger, you will be urged to move on after a couple of minutes. I managed to enjoy some nice sightings of sambur, langur monkeys, an Adjutant Stork, a Night Jar, and a nesting Brown Fish Owl, along with scenery and other things, while still adhering to the rules. This “mind and maintain the gap” law seemed to be relaxed after the vehicles from the zone had seen a tiger.
There is a center point where vehicles congregate between their two assigned tracks and this is where you sign up for the tiger show, stretch your legs, and use the bathroom. For ladies there were 3 porcelain squat toilets behind a straw fence.
I made an error here that could have come back to haunt me. Since we had stopped mid-morning in Kanha for breakfast each day, I mistakenly thought our halt at the center point was breakfast time. There were outdoor grills enclosed by fencing, which I assumed were part of the breakfast preparation, since we had not brought a packed breakfast. My driver, Puneet, asked me if I would like some Pakoras for breakfast. I clearly heard the word breakfast, but did not catch the Pakora part, not that it would have mattered. I replied, “Sure,” to the Pakoras and Puneet returned with a bowl full of tasty bite sized fried batter. I ate it all.
We continued on our game drive and returned back to the lodge about 10:30 am and breakfast was served shortly thereafter, which made me wonder, “So what was that I ate in the park?” It was then I realized it was something I probably should not have eaten, since I was limiting myself to only food from the lodges or restaurants chosen by my guides for hygiene reasons. The Pakoras had tasted good and fortunately I suffered no ill effects. I declined the mid-morning serving of Pakoras on future drives.
Lunch at Nature Heritage began about 1:00 pm. I didn’t need two heavy meals just a couple of hours apart so I usually had either just breakfast or lunch. Or I’d have only soup for lunch. Once I had just two bananas for lunch.
Depart again at 3:00 for the 3:30 to 6:45 afternoon game drive. No tiger shows in the afternoon.
On my first morning, I missed a male tiger sighting by about 10 minutes and was not successful during the tiger show. “No big deal,” I figured, “I’ll have plenty more chances.”
During the following two and a half days of my stay, an unusual phenomenon occurred: the tigers vanished from Bandhavgarh. The naturalists had not experienced disappearing tigers during that time of year before, though they had in December. I asked about phases of the moon or shifts in weather, but nothing explained the sudden lack of tigers.
For five drives, including one tiger show, no tigers in Bandhavgarh. In Kanha I had visited with a long-time park and wildlife advocate. She recounted how twice in Kanha’s history the tigers had disappeared for about a week, pug marks and all. The park officials were so concerned that they contacted members of the local Baiga tribe and asked them to perform a ritual to ask the tigers to make themselves visible once again. Apparently it worked—both times.
I was ready to ring up the head Baiga and request he make a hasty road trip to Bandhavgarh and talk to the tigers. Intellectualy I knew that demands of tigers or Baigas, or of guarantees, are out of place when dealing with nature . But emotionally, 90 minutes into my sixth and final game drive in Bandhavgarh without seeing a tiger, I could sense the growing presence of my “inner pout.”
Over the course of the previous few outings, I kept interpreting various events as a lucky sign that a tiger would appear: the rustling of a monitor through dried leaves; the fact that Guarav who came to join me for my last two days in Bandhavgarh had the same camera and binoculars as I did; the audible prayers from one of the naturalists as we departed. None of these provided sufficient luck, though.
Then, with an hour and a half gone on the last drive, I spotted a pair of barking deer and was about to call them out as my latest potential good luck symbol when Driver Puneet and the naturalist announced with great excitement, “Tiger, tiger, tiger!”
That was an accurate description as there were three grown cubs ambling along. After Puneet had stopped the Gypsy for photos, he turned around and gently grabbed my arm, signaling his relief that I would not leave after a four night stay in Bandhavgarh without seeing a tiger. There were about 9 other vehicles in the vicinity and the tigers were visible for 15 minutes. A very good sighting.
An hour later I saw a tiger coming down the road and we had a private viewing for the few minutes that it approached us and then slipped into the jungle. Examining the photos afterward revealed one the tiger’s eyes was injured, and I hoped not missing. The tiger had been moving normally, though, a positive sign.
We joined another line of about 8 vehicles to see a tiger walk across a creek on a log through thick foliage and then disappear. Later Guarav and I shared an elephant with two other people for a view of that same tiger, sound asleep. While photos were poor due to the darkness of the tiger’s jungle retreat, the sound of its snoring could be heard loud and clear. I was glad the tiger felt undisturbed enough to sleep so soundly that it snored. That was the final audio-visual of a tiger in Bandhavgarh and it wrapped up an action packed and exciting three hours of tigers
Nature Heritage is a really nice lodge, active with birds. All the room locations seemed equally good. The first afternoon that I was out looking for tigers (and missed them), one came looking for me and apparently could be seen in the open area behind the lodge. The staff generously offered me the use of their Internet, when it worked, for some quick emails home. From omelets at breakfast to gulab jamun (dessert) after the evening meal, the food was great. Nature Heritage, like all the places I stayed, suited me very well and I’d recommend it.
Even in Bandhavgarh seeing tigers is a special privilege and cannot be taken for granted. I had initially toyed with the idea of 3 nights in Bandhavgarh, thinking that would certainly be enough time to see some cats there. I’m glad I stayed 4 nights or I would have missed a tiger in Bandhavgarh because with tigers, nothing is certain.
May 9th, 2011, 05:55 AM
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Thanks for a great report. We went to Bandhavgarh three years ago because we were told chances of seeing a tiger were best there. Upon arrival we were told that tiger sightings were really down and that the guide had been seeing a tiger roughly one out of three drives. Doesn't sound like it's much better now, even in the dry season. Fortunately we got to see both tigers and plenty of school children! Sorry you missed the children but hope all those tigers were at least a small compensation...
Femi--the park naturalist is an "extra" who goes with your guide. We were taken a back when the "official" park naturalist told us to stand on the jeep seats to get a better view of the tigers.
Femi--the park naturalist is an "extra" who goes with your guide. We were taken a back when the "official" park naturalist told us to stand on the jeep seats to get a better view of the tigers.
May 9th, 2011, 07:56 AM
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In Bandhavgarh I had the park naturalists, different each drive. In Corbett and Kanha I had my assigned naturalist who was with me throughout. There is less interaction with the park naturalist and no continuity because it is a different person each time. The continuity and interaction aspect is accomplished with the driver, who remained with me in Bandhavgarh. I also had the same driver in Kanha and Corbett.
I found each of the the many Bandhavgarh naturalists to be sharp-eyed and interested in finding animals. No complaints about them. But I preferred having the same naturalist day after day.
My assigned naturalist in Corbett, told me to get up on the top of the vehicle and straddle the windshield and cab frames to see a tiger. It was not visible otherwise. I declined at first, but he was insistent (in a good way so that I wouldn't miss anything) and offered me his steady hand.
Standing on the vehicle seats was the normal routine everywhere, with shoes on.
Marija, I kept looking for the school children, but they were more elusive than the tigers!
I found each of the the many Bandhavgarh naturalists to be sharp-eyed and interested in finding animals. No complaints about them. But I preferred having the same naturalist day after day.
My assigned naturalist in Corbett, told me to get up on the top of the vehicle and straddle the windshield and cab frames to see a tiger. It was not visible otherwise. I declined at first, but he was insistent (in a good way so that I wouldn't miss anything) and offered me his steady hand.
Standing on the vehicle seats was the normal routine everywhere, with shoes on.
Marija, I kept looking for the school children, but they were more elusive than the tigers!
May 9th, 2011, 08:34 AM
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Lynn--in Corbett and Kanha you didn't have to have an official park naturalist accompany your naturalist? In Bandhavgarh we had the lodge naturalist and driver but we still had to have an official park naturalist.
May 9th, 2011, 09:47 AM
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We often did have an official naturalist accompany us in Kanha, but not each time. In Corbett no park naturalist ever went with us.
<b><orange>CORBETT</orange> (BY<orange> WAY</orange> OF <orange>AGRA)</orange>
</b>
Guarav and I were driven from Nature Heritage in Bandhavgarh at about 2:00 pm to Katni, which took 2 hours, where we boarded the Gondwana Express that took us by rail to Agra. Earlier in the report are the details of the Agra visit. I was impressed with the logistics that allowed me to see 5 different tigers and the Taj Mahal at a relaxed pace, with the added feature of Indian rail travel, all within about 24 hours!
After the Taj Mahal, Gaurav, Wild World India Owner Vikram, Driver CB and I drove to Delhi. Thank goodness for CB’s excellent attentive driving skills during the 4.75 hour trip. At the Ahuja Residency in Delhi I said good bye to Vikram and Guarav, though later I would have the privilege of visiting Guarav’s home and family.
To beat some of that Delhi traffic, CB and I got an early start for Corbett the following day at 5:30 am. Our daybreak departure and the fact that it was a Sunday helped us make the door to door journey in only 7 and a half hours, which included a 25 minute break near the midpoint between Delhi and Corbett where there is a nice restaurant and a nice restroom and grounds to walk around and stretch your legs. The other pit stop I requested during the 7.5 hour journey required a hop into the roadside bushes.
After I settled in to Forktail Creek in the Biranji section of Corbett, CB and I went off looking for birds. I was amazed CB still had energy for a couple hour bird walk after getting up before 4 a.m. and driving me 7 hours. But birds are his passion and he was ready to show me some beauties.
In about two hours, along a stretch near of not even 300 meters, we saw about 40 different and interesting birds. Highlights included prolonged views of the Collared Falconlet, watching a pair of Red Breasted Parakeets feed their chick, seeing a Great Hornbill fly by, and getting nice views of a pair of Kalij Pheasants, which I was hoping to see. A complete bird list appears at the end of the report.
<u><b><orange>Corbett</orange> Accommodations:</b></u>
It is possible to stay in the jungle in Corbett by booking the government rest houses. From my brief experience, the rest houses I encountered were indeed in the jungle, but in an expansive cleared, compound of numerous buildings, enclosed by a fence. The location is great because you do not have to travel to a gate to enter the park, but your room is not ensconced in jungle. On the other hand, I did stay in a place where narrow paths through the forest led to each cottage and the dining area. That was Forktail Creek on the edge of the park in the Biranji section.
More on Forktail Creek: Of the places I stayed, this offered the most secluded, personalized lodging--fine dining with the staff; sitting around the campfire in the evening and enjoying a hot cup of soup after a day in the park; wandering the camp’s paths through thick vegetation. The fact that I was the only guest for my two night stay probably helped the personalization.
A bird bath near the “Thatch” as the main gathering area was known, was always active with fantails or sunbirds or other species The rooms were great, taking advantage of solar lighting. No electricity, but the staff charged my batteries. If you are not a sound sleeper, the four domestic dogs that lived at Forktail Creek could awaken you with their frequent barking rants in the night.
The drive from Forktail Creek to the Amdanda Gate to enter the Biranji section of Corbett was 40 minutes, with the road leading directly to/from Forktail Creek quite steep and rugged. To avoid the lengthy midday drive to Forktail Creek for lunch and then back to the park, we spent the 11:00 to 3:00 lunch/downtime at the cleared and developed complex in the jungle that included the Biranji Forest Rest House. Also available in the complex were bathrooms with seats or not, a small store with snacks, an enclosed dining room, a small library, a shaded rest area with benches, and the mahout’s home and elephants.
Some people brought pillows with them for a more comfortable nap. The children (ages 5-10) of the mahout liked to visit and practice English and invite guests to sit in their home, so that offered a nice pastime after my packed lunch was eaten.
The transfer between Biranji and Dhikala took about 3 hours at a leisurely pace that allowed for wildlife stops, which were almost as plentiful as a regular game drive. It was on the transfer to Dhikala that I saw my first wild Indian elephant. The transfer also provided the best views of the crocodile species in the Ramganga River, especially at the lookout points.
More on Dhikala Forest Rest House: This is a large open complex with about 4 buildings of very simple rooms, a cafeteria, and a library. Of the many rooms, I thought mine in the “Annex,” on the end overlooking the meadows had the best view. Last year’s extra strong monsoon meant I was overlooking expanses of sand (reminding me of the Kalahari Desert) rather than meadows where deer and elephant usually grazed.
I was not the only one who liked that room because I was forewarned when I got to Corbett that it was likely a VIP would be removing me from it. My protests that I too was a VIP who had booked probably way before these Johnny-come-lately VIPs were in vain. At the government lodges, you are at the mercy of the government.
Fortunately there was another place for me to stay in the complex—a sizeable (bigger than my room) storage/laundry/kitchen unit with the same bathroom facilities as my room in which a newly made cot was set up. Just as Aurangzeb had exiled his father, Shah Jahn, to the confines of the Agra Fort, I was being removed to the storage unit. Shah Jahn was able to gaze out of his prison at the magnificent Taj Mahal he had built. I could gaze at the adorable suction cup footed lizards that adorned each of my two windows. My journey was uncannily similar to the lives of the kings! Unlike Shah Jahn’s chamber in the Agra Fort, my storage room had boxes of toilet paper that might have lasted a lifetime, so I had no fear of running out during my brief exile.
While not frequent, such displacements can happen at the forest lodges. VIPs hanging around for a week after the Cricket World Cup contributed to my ouster.
One hint for Dhikala Forest Rest House: bring your own carton of water bottles, unless you routinely drink filtered water in India. Bottled water is not available at Dhikala. I asked for and was given a carton of bottles.
For both Forktail Creek in Biranji and Dhikala Rest House in Dhikala, as well as everywhere I stayed, the accommodations suited me very well and I’d recommend them.
<b><orange>CORBETT</orange> (BY<orange> WAY</orange> OF <orange>AGRA)</orange>
</b>
Guarav and I were driven from Nature Heritage in Bandhavgarh at about 2:00 pm to Katni, which took 2 hours, where we boarded the Gondwana Express that took us by rail to Agra. Earlier in the report are the details of the Agra visit. I was impressed with the logistics that allowed me to see 5 different tigers and the Taj Mahal at a relaxed pace, with the added feature of Indian rail travel, all within about 24 hours!
After the Taj Mahal, Gaurav, Wild World India Owner Vikram, Driver CB and I drove to Delhi. Thank goodness for CB’s excellent attentive driving skills during the 4.75 hour trip. At the Ahuja Residency in Delhi I said good bye to Vikram and Guarav, though later I would have the privilege of visiting Guarav’s home and family.
To beat some of that Delhi traffic, CB and I got an early start for Corbett the following day at 5:30 am. Our daybreak departure and the fact that it was a Sunday helped us make the door to door journey in only 7 and a half hours, which included a 25 minute break near the midpoint between Delhi and Corbett where there is a nice restaurant and a nice restroom and grounds to walk around and stretch your legs. The other pit stop I requested during the 7.5 hour journey required a hop into the roadside bushes.
After I settled in to Forktail Creek in the Biranji section of Corbett, CB and I went off looking for birds. I was amazed CB still had energy for a couple hour bird walk after getting up before 4 a.m. and driving me 7 hours. But birds are his passion and he was ready to show me some beauties.
In about two hours, along a stretch near of not even 300 meters, we saw about 40 different and interesting birds. Highlights included prolonged views of the Collared Falconlet, watching a pair of Red Breasted Parakeets feed their chick, seeing a Great Hornbill fly by, and getting nice views of a pair of Kalij Pheasants, which I was hoping to see. A complete bird list appears at the end of the report.
<u><b><orange>Corbett</orange> Accommodations:</b></u>
It is possible to stay in the jungle in Corbett by booking the government rest houses. From my brief experience, the rest houses I encountered were indeed in the jungle, but in an expansive cleared, compound of numerous buildings, enclosed by a fence. The location is great because you do not have to travel to a gate to enter the park, but your room is not ensconced in jungle. On the other hand, I did stay in a place where narrow paths through the forest led to each cottage and the dining area. That was Forktail Creek on the edge of the park in the Biranji section.
More on Forktail Creek: Of the places I stayed, this offered the most secluded, personalized lodging--fine dining with the staff; sitting around the campfire in the evening and enjoying a hot cup of soup after a day in the park; wandering the camp’s paths through thick vegetation. The fact that I was the only guest for my two night stay probably helped the personalization.
A bird bath near the “Thatch” as the main gathering area was known, was always active with fantails or sunbirds or other species The rooms were great, taking advantage of solar lighting. No electricity, but the staff charged my batteries. If you are not a sound sleeper, the four domestic dogs that lived at Forktail Creek could awaken you with their frequent barking rants in the night.
The drive from Forktail Creek to the Amdanda Gate to enter the Biranji section of Corbett was 40 minutes, with the road leading directly to/from Forktail Creek quite steep and rugged. To avoid the lengthy midday drive to Forktail Creek for lunch and then back to the park, we spent the 11:00 to 3:00 lunch/downtime at the cleared and developed complex in the jungle that included the Biranji Forest Rest House. Also available in the complex were bathrooms with seats or not, a small store with snacks, an enclosed dining room, a small library, a shaded rest area with benches, and the mahout’s home and elephants.
Some people brought pillows with them for a more comfortable nap. The children (ages 5-10) of the mahout liked to visit and practice English and invite guests to sit in their home, so that offered a nice pastime after my packed lunch was eaten.
The transfer between Biranji and Dhikala took about 3 hours at a leisurely pace that allowed for wildlife stops, which were almost as plentiful as a regular game drive. It was on the transfer to Dhikala that I saw my first wild Indian elephant. The transfer also provided the best views of the crocodile species in the Ramganga River, especially at the lookout points.
More on Dhikala Forest Rest House: This is a large open complex with about 4 buildings of very simple rooms, a cafeteria, and a library. Of the many rooms, I thought mine in the “Annex,” on the end overlooking the meadows had the best view. Last year’s extra strong monsoon meant I was overlooking expanses of sand (reminding me of the Kalahari Desert) rather than meadows where deer and elephant usually grazed.
I was not the only one who liked that room because I was forewarned when I got to Corbett that it was likely a VIP would be removing me from it. My protests that I too was a VIP who had booked probably way before these Johnny-come-lately VIPs were in vain. At the government lodges, you are at the mercy of the government.
Fortunately there was another place for me to stay in the complex—a sizeable (bigger than my room) storage/laundry/kitchen unit with the same bathroom facilities as my room in which a newly made cot was set up. Just as Aurangzeb had exiled his father, Shah Jahn, to the confines of the Agra Fort, I was being removed to the storage unit. Shah Jahn was able to gaze out of his prison at the magnificent Taj Mahal he had built. I could gaze at the adorable suction cup footed lizards that adorned each of my two windows. My journey was uncannily similar to the lives of the kings! Unlike Shah Jahn’s chamber in the Agra Fort, my storage room had boxes of toilet paper that might have lasted a lifetime, so I had no fear of running out during my brief exile.
While not frequent, such displacements can happen at the forest lodges. VIPs hanging around for a week after the Cricket World Cup contributed to my ouster.
One hint for Dhikala Forest Rest House: bring your own carton of water bottles, unless you routinely drink filtered water in India. Bottled water is not available at Dhikala. I asked for and was given a carton of bottles.
For both Forktail Creek in Biranji and Dhikala Rest House in Dhikala, as well as everywhere I stayed, the accommodations suited me very well and I’d recommend them.
May 9th, 2011, 10:01 AM
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<blue>Marija on May 9, 11 at 11:34am </blue>
Lynn--in Corbett and Kanha you didn't have to have an official park naturalist accompany your naturalist? In Bandhavgarh we had the lodge naturalist and driver but we
still had to have an official park naturalist.
<blue>atravelynn on May 9, 11 at 12:47pm </blue>
We often did have an official naturalist accompany us in Kanha, but not each time. In Corbett no park naturalist ever went with us.
------------
Your question and my response got me to thinking some more. Harise, my naturalist throughout the entire Corbett trip, might have also been a "park naturalist." In the vehicle was the driver, Harise, and me. Harise was not a World Wide India employee. In Corbett, there was a guy named Yogi (I think) who I met at the start and end of the Corbett safari who oversaw that part of the trip. I thought Harise worked for Yogi, but maybe he was a Corbett staff member. I know Harise had worked his whole career of about 15 years in Corbet--and his experience showed.
Since each park's setup was a little different, and everything was going well, I just thought that's how it was done in that park and did not give it any more thought.
Lynn--in Corbett and Kanha you didn't have to have an official park naturalist accompany your naturalist? In Bandhavgarh we had the lodge naturalist and driver but we
still had to have an official park naturalist.
<blue>atravelynn on May 9, 11 at 12:47pm </blue>
We often did have an official naturalist accompany us in Kanha, but not each time. In Corbett no park naturalist ever went with us.
------------
Your question and my response got me to thinking some more. Harise, my naturalist throughout the entire Corbett trip, might have also been a "park naturalist." In the vehicle was the driver, Harise, and me. Harise was not a World Wide India employee. In Corbett, there was a guy named Yogi (I think) who I met at the start and end of the Corbett safari who oversaw that part of the trip. I thought Harise worked for Yogi, but maybe he was a Corbett staff member. I know Harise had worked his whole career of about 15 years in Corbet--and his experience showed.
Since each park's setup was a little different, and everything was going well, I just thought that's how it was done in that park and did not give it any more thought.
May 9th, 2011, 10:37 AM
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<b><u><orange>The</orange> general<orange> safari</orange> routine <orange>for</orange> Dhikala, <orange>Corbett</orange> in <orange>April<orange>: </b></u>
Depart the rest house at 6:00 am and stay out until 8:00 or 9:00 am. Come back for breakfast in the cafeteria, which included eggs. Go out again right after breakfast until 11:00 or 11:30. Down time and lunch until 3:00 pm. Into the park again until around 6:30 pm.
The size of Corbett and variety of landscapes could easily occupy a week or two of travel, especially if you do one of those extended elephant back safaris. There are two other zones to explore in Corbett, beyond Biranji and Dhikala, where I was. Those are Jhirna and Durga Devi, which I was told were superior for birding. And if I went there in search of birds, I’d want Corbett Naturalist Harise with me to find them. No bird escaped him, or anything else.
I had thought seeing elephants in India would consist of glimpses in thick jungle, so I was pleased to see herds out in the open in Dhikala. There were two areas, one by the river and one in a particular meadow, where herds could be seen predictably. The no off-road rules meant that some herds were meant to be admired at a distance.
When it was time to leave this diverse and beautiful park, I was nowhere near ready.
<b><u><orange>E</orange>n<orange>d</orange> o<orange>f</orange> t<orange>h</orange>e<orange> t</orange>r<orange>i</orange>p:</b></u>
The afternoon weekday transfer back to Delhi from the Amdanda Gate took around 8 hours of actual driving, plus a lunch stop at the midpoint restaurant.
I noticed some gatherings and festivities along the way and asked CB about them. He explained to me the significance of celebrating the April 14 birthday of Dr. Ambedkar, who was the first highly educated and politically prominent member of the untouchables caste. Dr. Ambedkar dedicated his life to removing stigmas, fighting social injustice, and promoting equality through education. He continues to be remembered and honored for his contributions to equality for all in India.
As a farewell, Guarav graciously invited me to a wonderful dinner at his home with his family before my night flight out.
From start to finish, this was a trip fit for a king. I’d also recommend it for any wildlife enthusiast traveling to India.
The End
except for the bird lists
Depart the rest house at 6:00 am and stay out until 8:00 or 9:00 am. Come back for breakfast in the cafeteria, which included eggs. Go out again right after breakfast until 11:00 or 11:30. Down time and lunch until 3:00 pm. Into the park again until around 6:30 pm.
The size of Corbett and variety of landscapes could easily occupy a week or two of travel, especially if you do one of those extended elephant back safaris. There are two other zones to explore in Corbett, beyond Biranji and Dhikala, where I was. Those are Jhirna and Durga Devi, which I was told were superior for birding. And if I went there in search of birds, I’d want Corbett Naturalist Harise with me to find them. No bird escaped him, or anything else.
I had thought seeing elephants in India would consist of glimpses in thick jungle, so I was pleased to see herds out in the open in Dhikala. There were two areas, one by the river and one in a particular meadow, where herds could be seen predictably. The no off-road rules meant that some herds were meant to be admired at a distance.
When it was time to leave this diverse and beautiful park, I was nowhere near ready.
<b><u><orange>E</orange>n<orange>d</orange> o<orange>f</orange> t<orange>h</orange>e<orange> t</orange>r<orange>i</orange>p:</b></u>
The afternoon weekday transfer back to Delhi from the Amdanda Gate took around 8 hours of actual driving, plus a lunch stop at the midpoint restaurant.
I noticed some gatherings and festivities along the way and asked CB about them. He explained to me the significance of celebrating the April 14 birthday of Dr. Ambedkar, who was the first highly educated and politically prominent member of the untouchables caste. Dr. Ambedkar dedicated his life to removing stigmas, fighting social injustice, and promoting equality through education. He continues to be remembered and honored for his contributions to equality for all in India.
As a farewell, Guarav graciously invited me to a wonderful dinner at his home with his family before my night flight out.
From start to finish, this was a trip fit for a king. I’d also recommend it for any wildlife enthusiast traveling to India.
The End
except for the bird lists
May 9th, 2011, 10:40 AM
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<i><b>Bird List</b>
<u>Bird List Between Agra and Delhi:</u>
Sarus Crane
<u>Bird list Kanha and Bandhavgarh:</u>
Alexandrine Parakeet
Asian King Vulture or Red Headed Vulture
Black Crowned Night Heron
Black Ibis
Black Necked Stork
Black Redstart
Black Rumped Flameback
Black Shouldered Kite
Blue Eared Kingfisher
Brown Fish Owl
Brown Headed Barbet (Usually Just Heard, But We Saw It)
Changeable Hawk Eagle
Common Hoopoe (My Favorite, Great Close-Ups)
Common Kingfisher (But Not As Common As The White Throated)
Common Sandpiper
Common Wood Shrike
Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Serpent Eagle
Eurasian Golden Oriole
Eurasian/Indian Roller
Eurasion Thick Knee
Gray Breasted Prinia
Gray Hornbill
Great Tit
Greater Coucal
Green Bee Eater (Everywhere)
Green Pigeon
Grey Headed Fish Eagle (I was told there was only 1 in Kanha)
Grey Hornbill
Indian Pond Heron
Indian Shikra
Jungle Owlet
Lesser Adjutant (All Over Bandhavgarh)
Lesser Whistling Duck
Long Billed or Slender Billed Vulture
Mountain Hawk Eagle
Night Jar
Oriental Honey Buzzard (Around because it was honey bee nest building season)
Oriental Magpie Robin (All Over)
Oriental Turtle Dove
Painted Francolin
Paradise Flycatcher
Peacock
Pied Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Purple Sunbird
Red Jungle Fowl (Everywhere)
Red Spurfowl
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Wattled Lapwing (Everywhere)
Red Whiskered Bulbul
Richard’s Pipit
Roufus Treepie (aka Tiger Bird)
Sirkeer Malkoha
Small Niltava
Spotted Bellied Eagle Owl
Spotted Dove
Spotted Owlet
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
White Eyed Buzzard
White Rumped Shama
White Throated Kingfisher (Everywhere)
White Throated Munia
Wooly Necked Stork
<u>Bird List Between Agra and Delhi:</u>
Sarus Crane
<u>Bird list Kanha and Bandhavgarh:</u>
Alexandrine Parakeet
Asian King Vulture or Red Headed Vulture
Black Crowned Night Heron
Black Ibis
Black Necked Stork
Black Redstart
Black Rumped Flameback
Black Shouldered Kite
Blue Eared Kingfisher
Brown Fish Owl
Brown Headed Barbet (Usually Just Heard, But We Saw It)
Changeable Hawk Eagle
Common Hoopoe (My Favorite, Great Close-Ups)
Common Kingfisher (But Not As Common As The White Throated)
Common Sandpiper
Common Wood Shrike
Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Serpent Eagle
Eurasian Golden Oriole
Eurasian/Indian Roller
Eurasion Thick Knee
Gray Breasted Prinia
Gray Hornbill
Great Tit
Greater Coucal
Green Bee Eater (Everywhere)
Green Pigeon
Grey Headed Fish Eagle (I was told there was only 1 in Kanha)
Grey Hornbill
Indian Pond Heron
Indian Shikra
Jungle Owlet
Lesser Adjutant (All Over Bandhavgarh)
Lesser Whistling Duck
Long Billed or Slender Billed Vulture
Mountain Hawk Eagle
Night Jar
Oriental Honey Buzzard (Around because it was honey bee nest building season)
Oriental Magpie Robin (All Over)
Oriental Turtle Dove
Painted Francolin
Paradise Flycatcher
Peacock
Pied Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Purple Sunbird
Red Jungle Fowl (Everywhere)
Red Spurfowl
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Wattled Lapwing (Everywhere)
Red Whiskered Bulbul
Richard’s Pipit
Roufus Treepie (aka Tiger Bird)
Sirkeer Malkoha
Small Niltava
Spotted Bellied Eagle Owl
Spotted Dove
Spotted Owlet
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
White Eyed Buzzard
White Rumped Shama
White Throated Kingfisher (Everywhere)
White Throated Munia
Wooly Necked Stork
May 9th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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<i><u>Bird list Corbett</u>
Ashy Bulbul
Ashy Prinia
Alexandrine Parakeet
Black And White Fantail
Black Bulbul
Black Crested Bulbul
Black Drongo
Black Francolin
Black Lored Tit
Black Shouldered Kite
Blue Common Kingfisher
Blue Eared Kingfisher
Blue Whistling Thrush
Brown Fish Owl
Brown Fronted Woodpecker
Brown Hawk Owl
Changeable Hawk Eagle (Seen with parakeet in talons)
Chestnut Headed Bee Eater
Chestnut Headed Starling
Collared Dove
Collared Falconlet
Common Green Magpie (a favorite)
Common Hoopoe (my favorite)
Common Myna
Crested Kingfisher (biggest kingfisher, saw one with a fish)
Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Tree Swift
Crimson Sunbird
Dark Throated Thrush
Dollar Bird (a favorite)
Eurasian Wryneck
Gray Headed Fish Eagle
Gray Winged Black Bird
Great Hornbill (impressive)
Green Flycatcher (everywhere)
Greenbacked Tit
Himalayan Bulbul
Indian Shikra
Kalij Pheasant (my goal to see)
Lesser Fish Eagle
Lineated Barbet
Long Tailed Shrike
Oriental Magpie Robin (all over)
Oriental Pied Hornbill
Oriental White Eye
Pallas’s Fish Eagle
Paradise Flycatcher
Peacock
Pied Bushchat
Pied Hornbill
Pied Kingfisher
Pintailed Pigeon
Plummeted Parakeet
Puff Throated Warbler
Purple Sunbird
Red Breasted Parakeet
Red Jungle Fowl (all over)
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Wattled Lapwing (all over)
River Lapwing
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Rosie Minivet
Ruddy Shelduck
Rufous Fronted Woodneck
Rufous Woodpecker (impressive)
Scarlet Minivet
Slaty Woodpecker (largest woodpecker, very impressive)
Southern Gray Shrike
Spangled Drango
Speckled Piculet
Tickell’s Thrush
White Crested Laughing Thrush (a favorite)
White Eyed Buzzard
White Rumped Shama
White Rumped Vulture (In nest with chicks, enroute to corbett)
White Throated Kingfisher (all over)
White Wagtail
Yellow Backed Tail
Yellow Crowned Woodpecker
Yellow Wagtail
</i>
Photo link will be posted eventually.
Ashy Bulbul
Ashy Prinia
Alexandrine Parakeet
Black And White Fantail
Black Bulbul
Black Crested Bulbul
Black Drongo
Black Francolin
Black Lored Tit
Black Shouldered Kite
Blue Common Kingfisher
Blue Eared Kingfisher
Blue Whistling Thrush
Brown Fish Owl
Brown Fronted Woodpecker
Brown Hawk Owl
Changeable Hawk Eagle (Seen with parakeet in talons)
Chestnut Headed Bee Eater
Chestnut Headed Starling
Collared Dove
Collared Falconlet
Common Green Magpie (a favorite)
Common Hoopoe (my favorite)
Common Myna
Crested Kingfisher (biggest kingfisher, saw one with a fish)
Crested Serpent Eagle
Crested Tree Swift
Crimson Sunbird
Dark Throated Thrush
Dollar Bird (a favorite)
Eurasian Wryneck
Gray Headed Fish Eagle
Gray Winged Black Bird
Great Hornbill (impressive)
Green Flycatcher (everywhere)
Greenbacked Tit
Himalayan Bulbul
Indian Shikra
Kalij Pheasant (my goal to see)
Lesser Fish Eagle
Lineated Barbet
Long Tailed Shrike
Oriental Magpie Robin (all over)
Oriental Pied Hornbill
Oriental White Eye
Pallas’s Fish Eagle
Paradise Flycatcher
Peacock
Pied Bushchat
Pied Hornbill
Pied Kingfisher
Pintailed Pigeon
Plummeted Parakeet
Puff Throated Warbler
Purple Sunbird
Red Breasted Parakeet
Red Jungle Fowl (all over)
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Wattled Lapwing (all over)
River Lapwing
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Rosie Minivet
Ruddy Shelduck
Rufous Fronted Woodneck
Rufous Woodpecker (impressive)
Scarlet Minivet
Slaty Woodpecker (largest woodpecker, very impressive)
Southern Gray Shrike
Spangled Drango
Speckled Piculet
Tickell’s Thrush
White Crested Laughing Thrush (a favorite)
White Eyed Buzzard
White Rumped Shama
White Rumped Vulture (In nest with chicks, enroute to corbett)
White Throated Kingfisher (all over)
White Wagtail
Yellow Backed Tail
Yellow Crowned Woodpecker
Yellow Wagtail
</i>
Photo link will be posted eventually.
May 9th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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<i>"guide had been seeing a tiger roughly one out of three drives"</i>
Even those are very good odds for such an elusive creature. That was approximately the ratio in Corbett too--2 out 7.
Even those are very good odds for such an elusive creature. That was approximately the ratio in Corbett too--2 out 7.
May 9th, 2011, 01:09 PM
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According to the &Beyond guide, in the past, few people left Bandhavgarh without seeing a tiger but that's was changing. As you noted, even with a stay of three days you can't count on a tiger appearing. Do they still have the signs telling you not to worry if you don't see a tiger because the tiger will see you?
