Robbietravels

BACKSTORY: My husband & I had such a satisfying trip to Sulawesi and Bali in ’05, we decided to return to Indonesia and visit Java, Lombok and once again Bali. We’ve been traveling once a year to Asia over the past six years. As we’re maturing (well, actually aging, ages 63 and 71) we are slowing our travel pace and wanting more creature comforts so long as they are in harmony with the place we’re visiting.
I booked each accommodation and flight in advance. Due to the worldwide recession, rates were negotiable and there were bargains (my middle name) to be had.
I’m still on the road, in the south of Bali, and have some time to begin my tale.

JAVA
From portal (our home in Pasadena, just north of Los Angeles) to portal (our first night’s lodging at Losari Coffee Plantation (two hours from Semarang in Central Java) was a mere 31 hours. Thanks to United ff miles, we flew Thai business class from Los Angeles to Bangkok, a seventeen hour non-stop flight. The flight staff were still welcoming and courteous and their silk outfits still beautiful but the food and food presentation wasn’t nearly what they used to be even ten years ago. Since I was on the plane for safe transport and sleep and the tickets were free, I’d say the flight was great.
The layover in Bangkok was less than two hours, just enough time to get to our next gate without rushing. No one seemed to rush, push or cut in line. Indonesians and other Asians in transit with us never conducted themselves with the high drama I’ve seen at U.S. airports. We continued on Thai for the three and a half hour flight to Jakarta. There are several international routes to Central Java; you can fly in from Singapore or KL as well as Bangkok. It depends on where your miles dictate and where the connections are best.
I thought Jakarta’s international airport sleek, modern and most pleasing. Walls of glass look out onto lawns and tropical greenery as you walk from gate to terminal; the cement walls are covered with attractive murals. Getting a “visa on arrival” in Jakarta took less than five minutes; $25 for up to thirty days. Baggage handling was efficient; plenty of luggage carts around. We were required to complete a special health questionnaire asking about exposure to swine flu and other pathenogens. Lest someone answer incorrectly, each person was thoroughly sprayed with some sort of nasty smelling disinfectant just before the immigration counter.
Our tardy arrival in Jakarta just missed the connecting flight to Semarang, which had been rescheduled for a few minutes earlier than planned; so we had a three hour layover. We found a small concession stand and sitting area, made appealing by the absence of smokers, and decamped.
To get to our first lodging, Losari Coffee Plantation, you can fly from Jakarta to Semarang, Yogyakarta or Solo; I picked the city that, at the time of booking, had the best connecting time. Since Garuda Air may delay or cancel flights with unnerving frequency, luck or fate determines how quickly you can get from Jakarta to Losari. A driver, arranged through Losari, met us at the airport in Semarang and we drove for two hours in a heavy rain. Without the rain, its a one and one half hour trip.
Traffic coming in to Semarang on this Sunday night was very heavy; fortunately, we were headed south east, away from Semarang. Even in fading light I could appreciate the richness of the dense jungle. The roadside was dotted with all manner of small shops with dwellings above or behind the storefronts. Our driver did a first rate job of maneuvering around trucks and motorbikes in the downpour. Since his name was difficult for us to understand, he recommended we call him Mr. Laugh, a deserving sorbiquint proffered by previous tourists. His speech habit was to punctuate each declarative sentence with a compulsive, mirthless laugh. “It will take us two hours, lots of traffic, ha, ha, ha, ha.” “Rain not usual this time of year, ha, ha, ha”.

Robbietravels

Since some on this board are considering Losari, I’ll report on this property in excruciating detail. Losari calls itself an exclusive eco resort and spa and I think the description apt.. In ‘05 it garnered Conde Nast Traveller Award for ‘Best New Hotel in the World” and has won Asia Spa awards the past few years. We were taken to The Clubhouse for a friendly, relaxed check-in. The resort’s receiving rooms, parlor, library (with verandas on all sides) are housed within the 1828 Dutch colonial mansion, original to the property. The resort has 32 villas, all reconstructed from old Javanese wooden houses and decorated with local antiques from Gabriella Teggio’s art collection. The result is smashing.
After a light dinner in the beautiful Java Red restaurant, we settled in to our extraordinary villa. There are four categories of villas. The one bedroom Plantation Villas have simple architectural features and decor and their verandas overlook the lush coffee plantation. The Arum villas are larger, have outstanding architectural detail and views of the volcanic mountains. The two bedroom Ambar villas are really one Arum villa and another smaller bedroom. There are two Bella Vista villas, one with four bedrooms and one with five. The stunning public rooms in these “presidential” villas are a vibrant living museum.
Our villa, Merapi 3 (aka #213) makes lavish use of antique Javanese carved wood, as lentils, rafters, interior shutters. The main room must be around 600 sf with pitched wood ceiling 30 + ft high. Besides the lovely four poster bed, there’s a writing desk on each side of the room in the bedroom area. A dining table and four chairs are in the center of the room, set off by four very tall pillars that define the space and are met by perpendicular carved beams. A large day bed sits in one far corner of the room and a table and chairs, TV and frig occupy the other far corner. The bath and closet room is also spacious and well laid out. The two person, mosaic tiled jacuzzi tub looks out to Mt. Merapi. The amenities are eco friendly and first rate. After using their mint and sage shampoo, my hair had an unprecedented healthy shine.
Our huge (40x15) balcony, set into the hillside, affords a panoramic view of Mt Merapi. A dining set and comfy sofa are placed to maximally enjoy the world class view of the jungle gorge in the foreground and the inspiring view of Mt. Merapi in the distance. One of the staff told us Merapi 3 is the villa most requested by repeat clients and I do not doubt the veracity of his remark. Neither great charm nor luck landed us this premier villa. I had booked early and requested #213. Seeing as there was only one other couple in the entire place my request was easily fulfilled.
Losari is surrounded by eight volcanic mountains and the views are beautiful in every direction. We took a coffee plantation tour the next morning to better appreciate the beauty of the extensive grounds. Our hotel guide walked us through the coffee trees and told us about the four different kinds of coffee produced at Losari. The coffee as well as the large vegetable and herb gardens are cultivated solely for resort use.
Our plan for the day was to visit Gedong Songo (about forty five minutes away), one of the reasons for choosing Losari. The cloud cover was so heavy, the staff felt we would not be able to enjoy the views. They thought it was raining in the mountains, weather forecasts being ascertained by gazing skyward.

Robbietravels

We regrouped at breakfast. I tried the Mei Goreng, a popular dish in Java made of fried noodles mixed with chicken, beef, sprouts and eggs, delicious. After immersion in the superb views of the surrounding jungle and mountains from our table at Java Red’s outdoor section, we set out to explore the environs beyond Losari’s acerage.
In a two hour walk we strolled through two villages. Our common body language consisted smiles, hand waving and friendly curiosity. The houses in Ka Rang village were of sturdy materials and generous proportions. The villagers, old and young, looked well nourished and well clothed. Most of the women wore head coverings, some coverings were beaded and had a bit of flair. Even the most extensive “veiling” that covered all hair, neck, shoulders and chest still gave full view to the womens’ attractive faces. We heard the muzen’s late morning call to prayer and saw the faithful fill the mosque. A fair number of men and women did not attend, the men continued their home repair tasks and the women continued to carry home firewood and sugar cane either on their heads or backs. The children played in groups and kite flying was popular. No one seemed shy, suspicious, afraid to engage with us or have their picture taken.
We returned to Losari in time for a late lunch in the vegetarian cafe by the pool. Fred and I laid out by the beautiful infinity pool and read until the clouds darkened and sprinkles began. As the rain came in earnest, I headed for The Haman Spa for an excellent ninety minute chakra re-balancing massage and Fred headed to the villa for rebalancing of our shrunken portfolio. I imagine my afternoon was considerably more pleasant.
The spa was serene and beautifully appointed and my masseuse very skillful. I followed the massage with a visit to their ultra luxe Turkish steam room. After tea and contemplation in a tranquil solarium, I emerged almost three hours later feeling energized, relaxed and pampered.
After drinks on our veranda we walked to dinner. I had a spinach soup with mint and then chicken and beef satay, quite good. The Australian couple had departed and a new couple was now at Losari.
Still adjusting to the time change, we relired early. Around midnight we were awakened by loud crashing sounds. The thunder delivered such a loud and protracted roar I thought it was emanating from inside our room. Apparently it rained all night and continued on through mid morning.

Kathie

What a great start to your report, Robbie! As you know, a return to Java is on our list! The Losari sounds heavenly.

filmwill

sounds beautiful, Robbie! as you know, we'll be following in your footsteps early next year...so I look forward to great anticipation to the rest of your report. especially the part about Amanjiwo--since i'd die to visit there and it's not in our range for our trip, I'll be living vicariously through your experience.

rhkkmk

great start....sounds fantastic...awaitig more...

Hanuman

Nice report! Looking forward to more.

Craig

Another destination to add to our list -

Keep it coming, Robbie...

hawaiiantraveler

Loving this report already. What is with the spraying? Waiting here for more!

Aloha!

marmot

Robbie, I'm glad to hear that Java is so far so good. We continue to experience massive rains this June -- so much for the dry season!

Robbietravels

Next morning with rain and mist all around, we cancelled our walk to more neighboring villages, just too wet and rainy. Another excellent breakfast, a quiche with their organically grown oyster mushrooms. Instead of departing for Amanjiwo after lunch, we had them pick us up mid morning in hopes that the rain would stop by the time we arrived there.
When we settled our bill at Losari, something didn’t seem right to me but I just couldn’t figure out what the problem was and I was still getting used to the currency. So we paid what they showed as owing and set out for Borobudur area. Once at Amanjiwo I used the computer calculator and realized that Losari had charged us a higher room rate than was negotiated. Within a few hours of calling them, the young woman responsible for the error was at our suite with our refund. She was most apologetic for her error and appeared to feel shamed. We did our best to assuage her distress and praised her for her honesty and forthrightness. We gave her and her driver a nice tip and they drove back to Losari in a brutal rain storm.
The rain was so heavy and relentless we could not leave our room to walk to the dining room. So we ordered our dinner in the room (in Aman parlance, “private dining”) and enjoyed the rain dancing upon our swimming pool.
It was really no hardship hanging out in our suite. It has sleek, contemporary lines, a wall of glass separating the inside bedroom from the outside pavilion. The private, walled outside room (as large as the bedroom) had as its centerpiece a long infinity pool. Beyond that was a thatched lounging area with view of Borobudur. We had booked the “entry level” Garden Suite but on arrival, were elevated to a Borobudur Pool Suite. For others, rank hath its privileges; for us, low occupancy definitely hath its benefits.
Next morning was clear and sunny. We took a long morning walk, visiting five or six villages. Often the density of the jungle trees and plants along the roadside make you think that there is only jungle between the road and the jagged mountains beyond the jungle. But any small path off the highway usually leads to a village, hidden within the cover of the trees. Behind or beyond these tiny villages are the families’ rice fields. The locals appear to be excellent farmers who tend their rice fields with small hand hoes. They know how to maximize their rice yields and also grow corn, vegetables and fruits.
As at the villages around Losari, the villagers here looked content and healthy....and very hard working. The children were well clothed, their play clothes clean and without holes or mends. They are free to play in front of their houses; some adult woman is always doing chores nearby and keeps an eye on neighboring kids when mom is in the house. Older children, aged five to ten, were pouring out of several schools; each school has its own colors and uniforms.
Few people could speak English but their smiles conveyed a genuine warmth and openness. In other countries I’ve visited, the local Muslim people do not wish to be photographed and so I refrain. Here on Java, according to Amanjiwo GM Sean Fakelar, Muslims are relaxed about their faith and have none of the strictness/restrictiveness of other Muslin populations.
Some women cover their heads, others not. In the Jakarta Post there was an article about the politics of head covering (are political candidates more electable if their wives cover?). In The Post’s fashion section there was an article about the expanding array of head covering styles. Aside from her husband’s political aspirations, the decision “to cover” appears to be a woman’s personal choice about demonstrating her faith by adherence to traditional religious customs.

Robbietravels

After midday relaxing by our pool, we decided to do an “orientation visit” to the temple of Borobudur. The Aman car dropped us at the Manohara Hotel opposite the temple site. Here we purchased our tickets ($17 each) and walked up the temple mound. Four in the afternoon was a fine time to visit. The crowds were heading back to their tour buses and we could walk around in relative quiet. I was glad I’d read Tales of the Buddha before coming to Java. It provided me a basic acquaintance with the history, layout and hypotheses about the temple’s construction and purpose. Five o’clock is closing time and they really do try to get people out by that time; we left with the last of the stragglers.
The little town of Borobudur was quaint, leafy and to my liking. We walked around a bit and then took a becak (cart and bike) to the Saraswasi Hotel. We had a very good dinner (their marinated chicken in coconut milk was delicious) in their pretty lobby restaurant. The hotel called Amanjiwo for us and an Aman car arrived promptly; there are always snacks in the back seat and water on request. Each time we returned to Amanjiwo, we were greeted by name with smiles and cold towels. Sometimes the pampering feels fawning but I quickly learn to adjust to these dire circumstances.
One of the special features of Amanjiwo is the work of the housekeeping staff. Not only do they tidy up several times a day but each night, they decorate the room with extravagant flower arrangements; one night rose petals were strewn all around the bed, another night strings of jasmine flowers adorned our entry door from top to bottoms, even the lamps were draped in jasmine strings. Arrangements of scorpion orchids graced our sitting area. We flopped in to bed by nine; we had to be up early for the sunrise outing to Borobudur.
Our next day began with a 4:15 a.m. wake up call. We were dressed and ready for the light breakfast (included in the tour price) at 4:45 . Following the advise of some sage Fodorites who have stayed at Amanjiwo, we requested Rohmid Hidijat as our guide. Thanks you to whoever recommended him. We were the only Aman guests going for the sunrise at Borobudur on this morning. Amanjiwo and Manihara Hotel guests are the only visitors allowed to be inside the shrine for sunrise and sunset.
We climbed to the top of the shrine and Rohmid gave us some overall background while we awaited sunrise. As the sky lightened, I could see Mt. Merapi (an active volcano) blowing smoke in the distance. As the sun came up, cameras of every description went in to action. For quite a while after sunrise, a lovely mist hovered over the fertile valleys below and bestowed a soulful atmosphere on the landscape.
Rohmid did a wonderful job guiding us and pointing out key elements of the architecture and embedded cosmology. By 7:30 a.m visitors were pouring in. Boisterous groups of school children climbed the tall steps. Several groups of local high school students gathered around us, shook our hands, asked how we were enjoying our vacation and delighted in the chance to practice their English language skills.
Our tour did not follow the pilgrim’s circumnavigation of the ten levels to the top. We eschewed the traditionally prescribed route (by which Buddhist teachings are conveyed on the 1470 or so sculpted stone panels) and took whatever route dodged the increasing onslaught of tour groups. Rohmid told us the tales depicted in several of the teaching stories on some of the exquisitely carved panels.
After two and a half hours, we had seen as much as we could absorb and were more than satisfied with our visit. Borobudur town was having their big market this morning. They have a market every day and every five days, is the big market. The market grounds were swept clean and commerce was in full swing. I did the usual: made small talk where I could, watched the locals )shop (carefully select among the ducks and roosters on offer) haggle over the price and, of course, took photographs. There was one other Westerner I noticed; it was definitely a local affair. By nine in the morning the light was getting strong and it was time to move on.

Robbietravels

Rohmid drove us to Magelang to visit the home gallery of Dr. Oei Hong Djien ([email protected]). Sean Fakelar had suggested this outing to us. As we drove to Magelang I wondered why we’d agreed to drive forty five minutes to see a home gallery. Sean had told us Dr. Oei, as he’s called, had the finest art collection in all of Indonesia; we were soon to see if this was hotel hype or solid intel.
To put it simply, I was astounded. This was by far the finest private collection of art I’ve ever seen. Dr Oei, a retired surgeon has been collecting for years. After showing us his premier pieces in his home, he took us to a building behind his home, his gallery for classic paintings. The works were beautifully displayed and curated by Dr. Oei. He knew and counted as friend most of the artists still living. His pieces span the major movements in art, traditional representational works to Impressionism, Cubism, Primitives, Surrealism,etc. His collection of sculptures was breathtaking. The two floors of exquisite works were a feast for the eyes.
From the classic gallery, we walked through his sculpture garden to a modernistic building that housed the contemporary works. The light and space were brilliantly conceived. I am less ardent about contemporary work but his pieces were nothing less than spectacular. He noted that the two galleries can only display 15% of his collection at any one time, so he rotates the works every few months.
Although I could have stayed all day, Dr. Oei had been very generous with his time but now he was needed by one of his on site restorers. The small world story with this passionate collector is that his sister lives about eight miles from us in Southern California and his elder son got his Masters’ Degree from the same university I did.
Back at Amanjiwo we thanked Rohmid and bid adieu. Even though the Aman adds 10% service to everything (plus the 11% tax), we did tip Rohmid and others for outstanding service. The afternoon was devoted to as little as possible. We had their tasty chicken soup for lunch and repaired to our compound. We swam in our private pool, read under the adjacent thatched daybed that faced Borobudur and relaxed in our beautiful suite.
Amanjiwo has a shuttle service so that on a few minutes notice (at least when their occupancy is so low) one of their drivers takes you where you want in the area. We asked to go to Merdut. Our plan was to visit the temple, wander the town, hang around for the 7 p.m. chanting at the monastery and then get a ride back. The tiny Mendut Temple is a jewel. It sits on a grass field (about a square block) and the ancient banyan tree nearby gives the setting a serene feel. The Temple’s exterior carvings (made on local black volcanic stone) are lovely. The tiny, very dark interior houses a sitting Buddha image. Its diminutive size and simplicity (just incense, offerings dish, flowers at the feet of the Buddha) evoked a more spiritual and meditative state for me than did imposing Borobudur.
We walked round the town and located an antiques shop in a small wooden house down a muddy lane. The lighting was very poor and the interior temperature was fit for a sauna but steadfast shoppers must sometimes endure such conditions. The two rooms were overflowing with (mostly) good quality pieces: puppets, bronze and brass buddhas, ornately carved wood elements from old houses, textiles. I found a well executed shadow puppet.
The shopkeeper consulted a ledger, that probably showed what they paid and how negotiable she could be, and after spirited bargaining, the owner’s sister agreed to reduce the fixed price by 30%. I paid about $70; it will cost much more, of course, to display it, either framed in front of colorful silk fabric or in a lucite box. She wrapped it as best she could but it never would have made it home that way. I always bring lots of bubble wrap so I knew I could wrap is securely. The owner’s sister and I struggled to communicate, the effort yielded laughs and good will but not the name of the shop. From the temple you walk 100 yards to the main road and go south, away from Borobudur. You turn left at the second alleyway and the house is a few feet down the road on your right.
We walked back to the Mendut Temple area and toured the monastery just beside the temple. The grounds were beautifully maintained and the assembly halls and meditation rooms soothing. No one was about at 5:30 p.m. The heat and humidity were now oppressive and with dusk came the mosquitos and other critters. We called Aman to pick us up and chose to forego the evening chanting at the monastery. I contented myself with warm memories of the monks’ soulful chanting at a monastery in Luang Prabang.
Back at the ranch we rested and got ready for dinner. GM Sean was about and we enjoyed having drinks and lively conversation with him before dinner. We related our wonderful experience at Dr Oei’s. We had hoped there would be some indigenous trance dancing while we were “in residence” but there wasn’t. So best time to visit for village ceremonies is during the full moon.

filmwill

Curious to know your impressions of Saraswati overall, Robbie. We're considering staying there for a night or two on our trip.

Did you get to look around the hotel grounds?

Becalm

aaaaah... RT you have taken be back to great memories of the peaceful Borobudur area and Amanjiwo w/Sean and company (glad you liked Rohmad). Totally agree w/your feelings about Mendut providing a more spiritual vibe than Borobudur - perhaps b/c the monks actively use Mendut.

Laughed about the mosquitoes in town - I was attacked by some at Mendut after dark that were the size of Rhode Island and more aggressive than a school of piranha.

Femi

Hi Robbie! Were your walks through the villages guided or unaccompanied?

I've considered staying at Losari villas, but I can't see that the rates are justified. What did you think?

A return to Indonesia is somewhere in the middle of my wish list,

Robbietravels

Let me address some of the questions and comments, so glad to hear from ya'all. Filmwill I'm afraid I got no farther than the handsome front lobby restaurant at Hotel Saraswati in Borobudur. The entrance has a bit of flair and the hotel is very well located in town, a block of two from the activity and noise of the central area. The staff were lovely and eager to please, our dining table and the lobby were very clean. If it has a/c, it could be your ticket.

Becalm kudos for the best description of Borobudur mosquitos.
Femi we did our walks on our own, meandering at our own pace. Losari is pricy. I think its worth it if 1) a big part of enjoying your vacation is staying in a room/hotel that is aesthetically striking, 2) Losari is viewed as a destination resort, where you come to unwind and experience the beautiful surround and hotel's pleasures ( views,food, coffee tour, spa, afternoon tea, pool, local village walks and treks in the area) and 3) if the tourism economy is still in recession when you plan to come, call the GM on Skype and request a rate reduction.

Marmot I asked several people if this "unseasonable" rain might have to do with global climate changes but no one knew. Hope its stopped raining in Jakarta by now.

Robbietravels

Our last morning at Amanjiwo. Fred made coffee and did computer work (the in room internet connection is very fast) while I headed out for a village walk. Filmwill this hotel is definitely worth a lunch or a light dinner if they are having a show that evening. In late morning an Aman driver took us from Amanjiwo to our hotel in Yogyakarta.

The good news about the Hyatt Regency in Yogya is that its about twenty minutes from the traffic noise, fumes and congestion of the city center The bad news is that its twenty minutes away from most places one wants to visit. I had originally booked a modest room at the senior rate through the hotel website. After booking, they emailed me that the senior internet rate was incorrect (it was not $121 as stated but $314) , a problem with the website they claimed. I suspected it was more likely a problem with greed. So I called the 800 Hyatt number and rebooked our stay at the advertised senior rate. At check-in we got upgraded to a suite on the ground floor with a terrace facing the gardens from each room.

Time for lunch next to the hotel at Sasanti Restaurant/Gallery, Jl Palagan,Tentara Pelajar no. 52, a recommendation from Sean. Walk outside the hotel street entrance and turn right down the first alley. The sign out front says Sri Sasanti Gallery and the restaurant is behind this clothing and accessories shop. The food was so good we returned several times. We used the Hyatt’s travel agency ([email protected]) to provide us a car and driver for afternoon touring. The rain began and we shifted touring plans. We drove to Prambanan to see this ninth century Hindu temple complex. Even though we could not enter the main temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma, (retrofitting continues from the 2006 earthquake damage) the splendid architecture with bas-reliefs depicting scenes from the Ramayana legend and the antiquity of the temples made the trip worthwhile. I realized, however, that the idea of driving thirty minutes to Prambanan tomorrow evening for the full Ramayana dance performance was not going to sell well with DH. He’s already far exceeded his quota of performances of this saga in India, Bali and elsewhere.

Instead of coming back to the hotel, we had our guide drop us off in town so we could walk around a bit. Big mistake. The streets we walked, with narrow or non existent sidewalks, were not pedestrian friendly; opportunities for a slip and fall abounded. Despite what seemed like clear directions from our driver, we could not locate the shop I sought. It was getting dark and the insects and hawkers were upon us. We were lost; the hotel’s city map was useless and my Java map did not have the expected Yogya inset. After aimless walking for too long, we found a taxi to take us back to the Hyatt.

Robbietravels

For our only full day in Yogya we arranged for a car and driver through Travelindo .com for local touring (they efficiently booked our four domestic flights and I wired them payment via PayPal before leaving home). We spent time touring the Kraton. A woman guide/hostess who spoke adequate English attached herself to us. Since she was pleasant and understandable we had no objection. Apparently, these guides are gratis with the entry tickets. I am now among those who were underwhelmed with the Kraton, the Sultan’s Palace complex. The museum was mildly interesting. A shadow puppet show was in progress so we watched a bit and enjoyed the gamelan instrumentalists and the vocal antics of the dalang (puppet master).

The Water Castle, located in another section of the palace complex, lacked appeal for me. What I did find delightful was walking up and down the tiny lanes that surround the Water Castle. Many of the tidy houses here are also home galleries, workshops and studios. Our Water Castle guide helped us find the batik shop I was seeking. Ms. Fitri makes beautiful traditional and unique designs. I made my selection quickly to preserve DH’s shopping tolerance. The studio is Hadi Wasito at Taman KP 3/116 in Tamansari (the Water Castle district) and is a supplier to Amanjiwo.

Our driver walked us to the Bird Market where we wandered a bit through the maze of bird stalls. Birds in cages lined the alleyways and hung from the tops of the stalls. All of a sudden there was a huge uproar of shrill cries from hundreds of squaking avians and roosters. I soon located the source of the commotion. An unthinking woman was walking her small dog through this market and the winged critters were going crazy . The vendors shooed her away and soon thereafter peace was restored.

We headed for the old city, Kotagede and lunch at Sekar Kedaton, Jl Tegal Gendu no. 28. Its a pretty restaurant with design motifs referencing the Kraton. I had a tasty seafood and mixed vegie dish. Kotagede is known for its silver shops. We headed for MD Silver, the oldest silver workshop in Kotagede. We watched craftsmen pounding and fashioning the silver but the designs and quality were not to my liking.

Kathie

Robbie, did the Hyatt 800 number honor the posted internet rate?

Do you mind saying what kind of price you were able to negotiate at the Losari?

I'm looking forward to more about your time in Yogya.