rkkwan's 10-11/06 trip to Hong Kong, China, Macau
Nov 16th, 2006, 11:19 PM
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I don’t think one should go to Macau without going out to the islands of Colane and Taipa and particularly to Colonae village which is just a sleepy little village on the water’s edge. Unfortunately, to get there these days you have to drive through the “Cotai strip” which is just a huge construction site which will eventually be chock-a-block with casinos but now has a few hulking towers and lots of cranes.
However, once you get down past this and to the other end of the island, a lot of the old feeling of Macau remains. There are almost no tourists here, even on weekends. I was in Macau on a holiday weekend about a month ago and the city of Macau was virtually overrun, especially placed like the Senado square, but when we got down to Colonae, we were about the only tourists there for the rest of the day; which was wonderful.
There are beaches all along the southern coast, from Hac Sa to the village of Coloane. There is a Westin hotel which is quite nice for a stop for lunch or tea, the little town near Hac Sa is cute and has some shopping and the famous Fernando’s restaurant. The village of Coloane itself has a Tin Hau temple (we were the only tourists there all day I believe, as we woke up the caretaker when we came in) and some little streets with shops and good restaurants (a recco is below) and the famous and fantastic egg tarts at Lord Stow Bakery . (There are 3 branches in the town, which is about 500 yards wide, so you can’t miss one...).
You can take the #25 bus down to Coloane from Senado Square in about 30 minutes, it costs MOP$4. A taxi from the same area will cost about MOP$75 (just under US$10). There are other buses which will take you to Hac Sa beach and the Westin area, check the bus stops or a guidebook.
A guidebook will give more information, or try websites for a map.
Espaço Lisboa
Rua das Gaivotas
Coloane Village
Tel: 853- 882 226
This is really excellent Portuguese food in a very pretty setting, they have two floors and an outdoor terrace. I found this through a Patricia Wells review in the IHT and she was right as usual. A reservation for dinner would probably be a good idea, esp on a weekend.
Fernando's
9 Hac Sa Beach
Hac Sa, Coloane
Phone: (853)-882-531)
This is a Macau institution, very popular esp on weekends, so make a reservation.
However, once you get down past this and to the other end of the island, a lot of the old feeling of Macau remains. There are almost no tourists here, even on weekends. I was in Macau on a holiday weekend about a month ago and the city of Macau was virtually overrun, especially placed like the Senado square, but when we got down to Colonae, we were about the only tourists there for the rest of the day; which was wonderful.
There are beaches all along the southern coast, from Hac Sa to the village of Coloane. There is a Westin hotel which is quite nice for a stop for lunch or tea, the little town near Hac Sa is cute and has some shopping and the famous Fernando’s restaurant. The village of Coloane itself has a Tin Hau temple (we were the only tourists there all day I believe, as we woke up the caretaker when we came in) and some little streets with shops and good restaurants (a recco is below) and the famous and fantastic egg tarts at Lord Stow Bakery . (There are 3 branches in the town, which is about 500 yards wide, so you can’t miss one...).
You can take the #25 bus down to Coloane from Senado Square in about 30 minutes, it costs MOP$4. A taxi from the same area will cost about MOP$75 (just under US$10). There are other buses which will take you to Hac Sa beach and the Westin area, check the bus stops or a guidebook.
A guidebook will give more information, or try websites for a map.
Espaço Lisboa
Rua das Gaivotas
Coloane Village
Tel: 853- 882 226
This is really excellent Portuguese food in a very pretty setting, they have two floors and an outdoor terrace. I found this through a Patricia Wells review in the IHT and she was right as usual. A reservation for dinner would probably be a good idea, esp on a weekend.
Fernando's
9 Hac Sa Beach
Hac Sa, Coloane
Phone: (853)-882-531)
This is a Macau institution, very popular esp on weekends, so make a reservation.
Nov 16th, 2006, 11:51 PM
#42
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Cicerone - I totally agree. I did visit both Taipa and Coloane during my last trip. Besides what you mentioned, I also enjoyed the Taipa Houses Museum - 4 small Portugese-style villas that used to overlook the sea (now just a pond).
BTW, photos of Wong Tai Sin Temple, Chi Lin Nunnery and the Kowloon Walled City Park are now online. Please check them out:
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/p80145470/
BTW, photos of Wong Tai Sin Temple, Chi Lin Nunnery and the Kowloon Walled City Park are now online. Please check them out:
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/p80145470/
Nov 17th, 2006, 06:36 AM
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Having been to Fernando's, in Coloane, I couldn't agree LESS that this restaurant is anything to write home about-allegedly good Portuguese cuisine-not-but because it is the only restaurant in the area that shows up in the guide books, there are of course, almost exclusively western tourists frequenting the place. And from my iceberg lettuce and tasteless tomato salad, to the absolutely uninspired (how hard is it to have a nicely grilled piece of fish with a little seasoning?) tasteless fish, my Fernando's meal had absolutely nothing in common with anything like my favorite simple seafood meals in Portugal.
Obviously, if you're in Coloane, it's the tourist restaurant to go to, in a nice shady area across the street and park from the water, but don't expect anything more than ordinary tourist cuisine there.
Obviously, if you're in Coloane, it's the tourist restaurant to go to, in a nice shady area across the street and park from the water, but don't expect anything more than ordinary tourist cuisine there.
Nov 18th, 2006, 12:14 AM
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<b>Part 3. Pearl River Region, Guangdong, China</b>
<b>A. Gongbei, Zhuhai</b>
After a brief stay in Macau, I took a taxi (again, I was spoiling myself - there are buses and free shuttles) to Portas do Cerco (Barrier Gate), the Chinese border. The Macau/China border is an extremely busy one with tens of thousands crossing between the two territory each day. The "wave" of people do not stop here. I rode the escalators up the Macanese border, and the line was short.
Then I got back down to the ground floor and walked across the actual border to the Chinese side. Short walk, and right there was a booth to buy tickets for the Kee Kwan Motor Road coach to Panyu (60RMB). I could also buy at the station later, but the price is the same, so no reason to buy early.
Now, the Chinese border control at Gongbei, Zhuhai was very crowded. For foreign passport holders, one need to fill in a health declaration form first when entering the building, before getting to the passport control. And when I got there, only 2 lines were open for foreign passport holders, with 50+ in line each. I was thinking at least 30 minutes if not more. Luckily, just then they opened a new line, and I ran over. As a result, I got through in 8 minutes. [Get the yellow entry form and fill the English side before getting to the counter.]
Stepping out of the border-control building, I was at the southern end of a large plaza and a wide staircase that led to the huge shopping center underneath it. To me, this place reminded me most of a bazaar in Egypt or other Middle Eastern countries, with tonnes of tiny stores, narrow alleyways, etc. Except this is in a modern concrete underground structure.
It was relatively early when I got there (~10am), so many shops weren't opened yet, but I'm sure you'll find plenty of pirated goods. But you'll also find many stores selling cellphones and prepaid SIM cards. I was there mainly to find breakfast.
There were many eateries at the very large foodcourt, including many full-service restaurants. From Hong Kong's Cafe de Coral to several Japanese restaurants, choices are unlimited. I went to a classic Chinese diner and have a bowl of Sichuan noodles and soy milk. [I made a mistake of ordering my noodles "medium hot", as "medium hot" for authentic Sichuan food is the same as "Fire" in the US.] The prices are unbelievable. Bowl of noodles for 7RMB (US$0.9), glass of soy milk 1RMB (US$0.12). If I had ordered a bowl of congee (rice porridge), it would be even cheaper at 5RMB.
After breakfast, I went down another level (B2) to the Kee Kwan Motor Road terminus for my 11:10a coach. It's very easy to find, well lit, with a nice waiting area. They also have a booking desk for hotels in Macau there with good prices. Kee Kwan Motor Road really has a long history of providing coach service between Macau and China for many many years, even before China officially opened its doors to foreigners in the late 70's. "Kee" refers to Shiqi in Zhongshan, "Kwan" refers to Portas do Cerco in Macau.
My coach left on time with me and just 5 other passengers. It has deluxe seating in 1-2 arrangements. The seat is similar to a domestic First Class seat on airplane, but I found it too high and I have to put my leg on the railings in front of my front-row seat. It made 2 other stops in Zhuhai (no one got on) before getting on the Zhuhai-Beijing expressway. At 12:50, we arrived at Panyu Hotel in Central Shiqiao, where the other 5 passengers got off. I was the only one riding to the terminus at Clifford Gardens, arriving 1pm.
<b>A. Gongbei, Zhuhai</b>
After a brief stay in Macau, I took a taxi (again, I was spoiling myself - there are buses and free shuttles) to Portas do Cerco (Barrier Gate), the Chinese border. The Macau/China border is an extremely busy one with tens of thousands crossing between the two territory each day. The "wave" of people do not stop here. I rode the escalators up the Macanese border, and the line was short.
Then I got back down to the ground floor and walked across the actual border to the Chinese side. Short walk, and right there was a booth to buy tickets for the Kee Kwan Motor Road coach to Panyu (60RMB). I could also buy at the station later, but the price is the same, so no reason to buy early.
Now, the Chinese border control at Gongbei, Zhuhai was very crowded. For foreign passport holders, one need to fill in a health declaration form first when entering the building, before getting to the passport control. And when I got there, only 2 lines were open for foreign passport holders, with 50+ in line each. I was thinking at least 30 minutes if not more. Luckily, just then they opened a new line, and I ran over. As a result, I got through in 8 minutes. [Get the yellow entry form and fill the English side before getting to the counter.]
Stepping out of the border-control building, I was at the southern end of a large plaza and a wide staircase that led to the huge shopping center underneath it. To me, this place reminded me most of a bazaar in Egypt or other Middle Eastern countries, with tonnes of tiny stores, narrow alleyways, etc. Except this is in a modern concrete underground structure.
It was relatively early when I got there (~10am), so many shops weren't opened yet, but I'm sure you'll find plenty of pirated goods. But you'll also find many stores selling cellphones and prepaid SIM cards. I was there mainly to find breakfast.
There were many eateries at the very large foodcourt, including many full-service restaurants. From Hong Kong's Cafe de Coral to several Japanese restaurants, choices are unlimited. I went to a classic Chinese diner and have a bowl of Sichuan noodles and soy milk. [I made a mistake of ordering my noodles "medium hot", as "medium hot" for authentic Sichuan food is the same as "Fire" in the US.] The prices are unbelievable. Bowl of noodles for 7RMB (US$0.9), glass of soy milk 1RMB (US$0.12). If I had ordered a bowl of congee (rice porridge), it would be even cheaper at 5RMB.
After breakfast, I went down another level (B2) to the Kee Kwan Motor Road terminus for my 11:10a coach. It's very easy to find, well lit, with a nice waiting area. They also have a booking desk for hotels in Macau there with good prices. Kee Kwan Motor Road really has a long history of providing coach service between Macau and China for many many years, even before China officially opened its doors to foreigners in the late 70's. "Kee" refers to Shiqi in Zhongshan, "Kwan" refers to Portas do Cerco in Macau.
My coach left on time with me and just 5 other passengers. It has deluxe seating in 1-2 arrangements. The seat is similar to a domestic First Class seat on airplane, but I found it too high and I have to put my leg on the railings in front of my front-row seat. It made 2 other stops in Zhuhai (no one got on) before getting on the Zhuhai-Beijing expressway. At 12:50, we arrived at Panyu Hotel in Central Shiqiao, where the other 5 passengers got off. I was the only one riding to the terminus at Clifford Gardens, arriving 1pm.
Nov 18th, 2006, 10:56 AM
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Girlspy - You'd be surprised how many foreigners there are going between Macau and China. That 2 long lines at immigration are full of them. So, language shouldn't be a problem there.
As for taking the coach, that may be a little more tricky, but mostly depends on where you're going. Like traveling to other parts of China, it's best to have some one write you a card with both Chinese and English where you want to go. Say you have a card that says "Guangzhou - China Hotel", you won't have problem buying a ticket and getting on the very frequent coach (32 daily departures from Gongbei to China Hotel). I picked up a timetable there, but it's in Chinese only, I just checked.
As for taking the coach, that may be a little more tricky, but mostly depends on where you're going. Like traveling to other parts of China, it's best to have some one write you a card with both Chinese and English where you want to go. Say you have a card that says "Guangzhou - China Hotel", you won't have problem buying a ticket and getting on the very frequent coach (32 daily departures from Gongbei to China Hotel). I picked up a timetable there, but it's in Chinese only, I just checked.
Nov 18th, 2006, 10:50 PM
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<b>3B. Clifford Gardens (Panyu) and Biguiyuan (Shunde)</b>
The main purpose of my visit is to check out these two massive residental developments not far south from Guangzhou, and also only about 2 hours from Hong Kong or Macau. Many Hong Kong people have bought apartments and houses there, including two of my uncles from Hong Kong and one cousin from Houston.
These are gated communities with multiple club houses, restaurants, markets, etc. They even have hotels, and in the case of Clifford Gardens, a modern and imposing hospital.
And the costs are so low that it's quite apparent why so many HK/overseas Chinese decide to retire outright or buy a vacation home there. A 1,000 sq. ft highrise apartment with 2 bedrooms may cost US$500K in Hong Kong, but US$60K up there in Panyu or Shunde. Plus service, food, and everything's much cheaper. From what I see, building quality is now as good as in Hong Kong.
[They also have lots of houses, but are priced at a premium. It's no cheaper than a house in a Houston suburb, for example.]
<b>3C. Foshan</b>
Foshan is just a large city just about 10 miles SW of Guangzhou. One area of the city is called Shiwan, which is very famous for its ceramics and porcelains. There are showrooms after showrooms of ceramic tiles and bathroom stuff, but that's not why me, my mom and a bunch of relatives went there. Rather, we were there for its porcelain figurines.
There's a street with lots of stores - some specialize in vases, some religious figures, etc, and one specializes in just the figurines. They were created by artists with their own studios, and then each of them handmade. So delicate that some female figures have moveable bracelets and fingernails that are as fine as needles. But even more amazing is the price. My mom bought a beautiful one about 10-12 inches tall, and it costs just US$20! If I can find one here that's as nice, it'd cost US$200 easily.
After shopping, I went to visit the Foshan Ancestral Temple (Zumiao), which is one of the most famous and beautiful temple in Guangdong Province. It is a Taoist temple for the worship of the "Northern Emperor", lavishly decorated with local ceramics. There's an entrance fee of 20RMB, and since it was late, I was basically the only visitor.
Which was remarkable, as this is major attraction. But it seems like most people are interested in all the modern shopping centers and arcades surrounding the temple complex. It really made a huge contrast.
Then we went to the 5* Foshan Hotel for dinner. Because of the low cost of living in China, we really could afford to go to the best places to eat. Its Bai Wei Chuan restaurant on the second floor has Chinese cuisine from all parts of the country. In fact, it offered so many choices that you don't order from a menu. Instead, a waitress will accompany you to walk along the kitchen counters where separate cuisines are prepared. You decide and the waitress to take the order for you. [They also have a more formal Chinese restaurant plus Japanese, Western, etc in the complex.] Cost: 418RMB (just over US$50) for 6 persons. About 40% of what it'd cost in Hong Kong.
The main purpose of my visit is to check out these two massive residental developments not far south from Guangzhou, and also only about 2 hours from Hong Kong or Macau. Many Hong Kong people have bought apartments and houses there, including two of my uncles from Hong Kong and one cousin from Houston.
These are gated communities with multiple club houses, restaurants, markets, etc. They even have hotels, and in the case of Clifford Gardens, a modern and imposing hospital.
And the costs are so low that it's quite apparent why so many HK/overseas Chinese decide to retire outright or buy a vacation home there. A 1,000 sq. ft highrise apartment with 2 bedrooms may cost US$500K in Hong Kong, but US$60K up there in Panyu or Shunde. Plus service, food, and everything's much cheaper. From what I see, building quality is now as good as in Hong Kong.
[They also have lots of houses, but are priced at a premium. It's no cheaper than a house in a Houston suburb, for example.]
<b>3C. Foshan</b>
Foshan is just a large city just about 10 miles SW of Guangzhou. One area of the city is called Shiwan, which is very famous for its ceramics and porcelains. There are showrooms after showrooms of ceramic tiles and bathroom stuff, but that's not why me, my mom and a bunch of relatives went there. Rather, we were there for its porcelain figurines.
There's a street with lots of stores - some specialize in vases, some religious figures, etc, and one specializes in just the figurines. They were created by artists with their own studios, and then each of them handmade. So delicate that some female figures have moveable bracelets and fingernails that are as fine as needles. But even more amazing is the price. My mom bought a beautiful one about 10-12 inches tall, and it costs just US$20! If I can find one here that's as nice, it'd cost US$200 easily.
After shopping, I went to visit the Foshan Ancestral Temple (Zumiao), which is one of the most famous and beautiful temple in Guangdong Province. It is a Taoist temple for the worship of the "Northern Emperor", lavishly decorated with local ceramics. There's an entrance fee of 20RMB, and since it was late, I was basically the only visitor.
Which was remarkable, as this is major attraction. But it seems like most people are interested in all the modern shopping centers and arcades surrounding the temple complex. It really made a huge contrast.
Then we went to the 5* Foshan Hotel for dinner. Because of the low cost of living in China, we really could afford to go to the best places to eat. Its Bai Wei Chuan restaurant on the second floor has Chinese cuisine from all parts of the country. In fact, it offered so many choices that you don't order from a menu. Instead, a waitress will accompany you to walk along the kitchen counters where separate cuisines are prepared. You decide and the waitress to take the order for you. [They also have a more formal Chinese restaurant plus Japanese, Western, etc in the complex.] Cost: 418RMB (just over US$50) for 6 persons. About 40% of what it'd cost in Hong Kong.
Nov 19th, 2006, 01:31 AM
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Raymond, very nice photos. I can't wait to go to HK and visit those sites.
For Lamma Island, do you recommend going there in the morning and stay until 4:45pm?
BTW, I called YMCA Salisbury trying to book a room with harbor view. Before I could finish the sentence, the lady quickly said ALL rooms are booked. Plan B was YMCA International House. I booked through Expedia.com around $85 per night (12/22 - 12/25).
For Lamma Island, do you recommend going there in the morning and stay until 4:45pm?
BTW, I called YMCA Salisbury trying to book a room with harbor view. Before I could finish the sentence, the lady quickly said ALL rooms are booked. Plan B was YMCA International House. I booked through Expedia.com around $85 per night (12/22 - 12/25).
Nov 19th, 2006, 05:12 AM
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j_4tay:
You don't need that much time on Lamma, and there are better ways to spend your time in Hong Kong.
Because there are ferries to Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, about an 1.5-2 hour hike between the two, and that the seafood restaurants are all in Sok Kwu Wan, you need to think carefully what you want to do there. Plus, think about whether you want to ride the free ferry from Rainbow Restaurants.
If you're not eating there, then easy. Just ride ferry to one port, hike over, ferry out. [Ferry takes about 35 minutes, schedule at www.hkkf.com.hk ]
But if you want to eat and then take ferry and to see the harbor lights, then you can just go later. But keep in mind that on most of the regular HKKF ferry, you can't get outside the cabin to take pictures.
Let me know if you have further questions.
You don't need that much time on Lamma, and there are better ways to spend your time in Hong Kong.
Because there are ferries to Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, about an 1.5-2 hour hike between the two, and that the seafood restaurants are all in Sok Kwu Wan, you need to think carefully what you want to do there. Plus, think about whether you want to ride the free ferry from Rainbow Restaurants.
If you're not eating there, then easy. Just ride ferry to one port, hike over, ferry out. [Ferry takes about 35 minutes, schedule at www.hkkf.com.hk ]
But if you want to eat and then take ferry and to see the harbor lights, then you can just go later. But keep in mind that on most of the regular HKKF ferry, you can't get outside the cabin to take pictures.
Let me know if you have further questions.
Nov 19th, 2006, 09:30 PM
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<b>3D. Shenzhen</b>
Next morning, had dim sum with my uncle, aunts and cousins at the nicest clubhouse inside Biguiyuan. Only cost 57RMB for 5. That's under US$1.5 per person. Freaking ridiculous.
Then 3 of us rode the coach back to Shenzhen. HK$60 or 65RMB. (HK$ is the better deal). Interesting security procedure though. Because of hijack threat (and one actually happened earlier this year, though the criminals were captured soon), a attendant would come on to the coach and use a videocamera to capture the face of each passenger.
The coach picked up some more passengers at Clifford Gardens and then straight to the Huanggang and Lowu borders in Shenzhen to get back to Hong Kong. The trip takes about 2 hours, crossing the Pearl River on the Humen suspension bridge. Air quality around there and in Donguan on the east side of the Pearl River was the worst of all. Again it was a clear day, but I could barely see the top of the suspension cable tower. People here basically live inside the smog all the time. It got a little better when we got to Shenzhen.
We got off at the Huanggang border, but instead of crossing to Hong Kong, we took a 10-minute taxi ride west to my cousin's luxury apartment near the Chegongmiao station in the Futian District. Apartment prices are a bit more here than in Panyu or Shunde, but still under 50% of that of Hong Kong.
It's now lunch time, and my uncle and aunt brought me to a nice dim sum restaurant on the other side of the subway station called Jinyuexuan. Owned by a Macau restaurateur, it has four levels and super luxurious. We walked in the front door, and several waitress in sharp uniform immediately addressed my uncle and aunt, even though they haven't eaten there for several weeks. [Their staff to guest ratio is about twice that of similar restaurants in Hong Kong, as wages are much lower.] They serve traditional Cantonese food with a slight twist. Very nice. Cost for 3 persons? Just over 100RMB (US$13).
Finally, it was time to return to Hong Kong. Instead of taking the bus through Huanggang again, I took the Shenzhen subway to Lowu. It cost 4RMB from Chegongmiao for the 20-minute ride. The cars are made by Bombardier, and it looks almost identical to the MTR in Hong Kong inside and out. Only the color scheme is different.
Coming out of the Lowu subway station, straight ahead is the border to Hong Kong. On the left is the (in)famous Lowu Shopping Center that's world capital for pirated goods. Behind is the main Shenzhen train station, Shangri-La hotel, etc... I was tempted to go look around inside Lowu Shopping Center, but I was wearing a backpack. That's an absolutely no-no for walking around many parts of Shenzhen, so I passed and walked straight towards the border.
This is a very busy border crossing, and they separated the numerous Home Return Permit holders of Hong Kong from other passport holders. The former goes up to 3rd floor, while the latter goes through the border control on the 2nd. I already had my blue exit card filled out, so just a short wait for me on the 2nd floor - about 5 minutes with 4 short lines for passport holders. After that, I walked along a new enclosed footbridge across the Shenzhen River to Hong Kong. The railroad bridge is to the west.
Like Huanggang, holders of the new HKID card with the smart chip can use the automated lanes by placing a thumb on a scanner. I still had the old card and had to use a manned channel. Again, no wait.
Finally, I took the KCR East Rail train back to Mongkok, which took about 35 minutes.
---
So, that conclude this report of Hong Kong and my short trip to Macau and the Pearl River delta. I am continuing slowly on the thread about the 6-day to Yunnan here:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=27&tid=34900413
Photos are still being added to the galleries slowly here:
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/f49037224/
Thanks for reading, and thanks for all the comments.
Next morning, had dim sum with my uncle, aunts and cousins at the nicest clubhouse inside Biguiyuan. Only cost 57RMB for 5. That's under US$1.5 per person. Freaking ridiculous.
Then 3 of us rode the coach back to Shenzhen. HK$60 or 65RMB. (HK$ is the better deal). Interesting security procedure though. Because of hijack threat (and one actually happened earlier this year, though the criminals were captured soon), a attendant would come on to the coach and use a videocamera to capture the face of each passenger.
The coach picked up some more passengers at Clifford Gardens and then straight to the Huanggang and Lowu borders in Shenzhen to get back to Hong Kong. The trip takes about 2 hours, crossing the Pearl River on the Humen suspension bridge. Air quality around there and in Donguan on the east side of the Pearl River was the worst of all. Again it was a clear day, but I could barely see the top of the suspension cable tower. People here basically live inside the smog all the time. It got a little better when we got to Shenzhen.
We got off at the Huanggang border, but instead of crossing to Hong Kong, we took a 10-minute taxi ride west to my cousin's luxury apartment near the Chegongmiao station in the Futian District. Apartment prices are a bit more here than in Panyu or Shunde, but still under 50% of that of Hong Kong.
It's now lunch time, and my uncle and aunt brought me to a nice dim sum restaurant on the other side of the subway station called Jinyuexuan. Owned by a Macau restaurateur, it has four levels and super luxurious. We walked in the front door, and several waitress in sharp uniform immediately addressed my uncle and aunt, even though they haven't eaten there for several weeks. [Their staff to guest ratio is about twice that of similar restaurants in Hong Kong, as wages are much lower.] They serve traditional Cantonese food with a slight twist. Very nice. Cost for 3 persons? Just over 100RMB (US$13).
Finally, it was time to return to Hong Kong. Instead of taking the bus through Huanggang again, I took the Shenzhen subway to Lowu. It cost 4RMB from Chegongmiao for the 20-minute ride. The cars are made by Bombardier, and it looks almost identical to the MTR in Hong Kong inside and out. Only the color scheme is different.
Coming out of the Lowu subway station, straight ahead is the border to Hong Kong. On the left is the (in)famous Lowu Shopping Center that's world capital for pirated goods. Behind is the main Shenzhen train station, Shangri-La hotel, etc... I was tempted to go look around inside Lowu Shopping Center, but I was wearing a backpack. That's an absolutely no-no for walking around many parts of Shenzhen, so I passed and walked straight towards the border.
This is a very busy border crossing, and they separated the numerous Home Return Permit holders of Hong Kong from other passport holders. The former goes up to 3rd floor, while the latter goes through the border control on the 2nd. I already had my blue exit card filled out, so just a short wait for me on the 2nd floor - about 5 minutes with 4 short lines for passport holders. After that, I walked along a new enclosed footbridge across the Shenzhen River to Hong Kong. The railroad bridge is to the west.
Like Huanggang, holders of the new HKID card with the smart chip can use the automated lanes by placing a thumb on a scanner. I still had the old card and had to use a manned channel. Again, no wait.
Finally, I took the KCR East Rail train back to Mongkok, which took about 35 minutes.
---
So, that conclude this report of Hong Kong and my short trip to Macau and the Pearl River delta. I am continuing slowly on the thread about the 6-day to Yunnan here:
fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=27&tid=34900413
Photos are still being added to the galleries slowly here:
rkkwan.zenfolio.com/f49037224/
Thanks for reading, and thanks for all the comments.
Nov 20th, 2006, 10:38 PM
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Rkkwan, thank you for all of your postings, I really enjoyed looking at your photos, thank you for sharing.
We are staying at the Langham Kowloon for some of our trip and on HKI in central first, (there's an exhib'n or something and we had problems getting bookings! nothing at the Salisbury, and even many of the cheaper hotels are charging £100 ++ per night for the first few days of our trip! ) we hope to do the Duk Ling ride and having seen your photos the Ngong Ping too, in fact we're going to use your itinerary! you're right, it's nothing like the Cape Town cablecar and Chi Lin Nunnery is also added to the list, that looked very peaceful. We have a day set aside for our trip to Macau, do the return ferries run quite late? We want to make the most of it!
Thanks again,
Pauline.
We are staying at the Langham Kowloon for some of our trip and on HKI in central first, (there's an exhib'n or something and we had problems getting bookings! nothing at the Salisbury, and even many of the cheaper hotels are charging £100 ++ per night for the first few days of our trip! ) we hope to do the Duk Ling ride and having seen your photos the Ngong Ping too, in fact we're going to use your itinerary! you're right, it's nothing like the Cape Town cablecar and Chi Lin Nunnery is also added to the list, that looked very peaceful. We have a day set aside for our trip to Macau, do the return ferries run quite late? We want to make the most of it!
Thanks again,
Pauline.
Nov 21st, 2006, 04:29 AM
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Pauline -
The Langham Kowloon is a nice hotel in a convenient location, close to the Star Ferry. Hotel prices fluctuate tremendously in Hong Kong, totally based on supply and demand. Not much one can do about that.
Turbobjet to/from Macau run 24 hours; the night departures cost a little more, but it's not an issue. With ferries running pretty full these days, you may want to purchase the return ticket along with the outbound. One can standby for earlier ferries at no charge. Just go to the pier early and they'll let you on an earlier departure if they have room.
For the Duk Ling, bring your passports to the HKTB office at the Kowloon Star Ferry ASAP once you're in Hong Kong. Remember, sailings on Thursdays and Saturdays only.
The Langham Kowloon is a nice hotel in a convenient location, close to the Star Ferry. Hotel prices fluctuate tremendously in Hong Kong, totally based on supply and demand. Not much one can do about that.
Turbobjet to/from Macau run 24 hours; the night departures cost a little more, but it's not an issue. With ferries running pretty full these days, you may want to purchase the return ticket along with the outbound. One can standby for earlier ferries at no charge. Just go to the pier early and they'll let you on an earlier departure if they have room.
For the Duk Ling, bring your passports to the HKTB office at the Kowloon Star Ferry ASAP once you're in Hong Kong. Remember, sailings on Thursdays and Saturdays only.
Nov 21st, 2006, 06:06 AM
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Thanks, will make a note of that.
I remember recently reading a report (not sure where, may have been in a Telegraph reprint from HKT) about a revolving restaurant in Hong Kong, any idea where that would be?
I've just been reading an earlier post of yours (2005 trip) where you gave details of various bus trips, my OH is a bus "enthusiast" so I'm sure he'll want to do some of those trips!
Re: hotels, I can appreciate price fluctuations, I was just v.surprised by how much! all is now booked, chose the Langham because we plan to eat Kowloon side on 15th for OH birthday celebration but glad to hear that it's ok. Checking your photos I see that your new camera is a Canon EOS digital rebel xti thingy, my OH was hoping to buy a Canon SLR Digital EOS 400D (it's his present but I think thats the same model as yours) would that be worth doing in Hong Kong, they're about £500 inc 18-55 lens here. Thanks for the help and advice,
Pauline.
I remember recently reading a report (not sure where, may have been in a Telegraph reprint from HKT) about a revolving restaurant in Hong Kong, any idea where that would be?
I've just been reading an earlier post of yours (2005 trip) where you gave details of various bus trips, my OH is a bus "enthusiast" so I'm sure he'll want to do some of those trips!
Re: hotels, I can appreciate price fluctuations, I was just v.surprised by how much! all is now booked, chose the Langham because we plan to eat Kowloon side on 15th for OH birthday celebration but glad to hear that it's ok. Checking your photos I see that your new camera is a Canon EOS digital rebel xti thingy, my OH was hoping to buy a Canon SLR Digital EOS 400D (it's his present but I think thats the same model as yours) would that be worth doing in Hong Kong, they're about £500 inc 18-55 lens here. Thanks for the help and advice,
Pauline.
