ekscrunchy

Thursday: I did visit Brothers Cafe. It is indeed beautiful and located very near the Life Resort. The gardens, especially, were beautiful and I had planned to try it the last night but with the dreary weather, I decided to stay put.... Now I wish I had visited My Son but I had heard some mixed reports while I was in Hoi An..

And yes, how could I forget: computer access is a must! And a private computer, mind you..none of this library business! (Imagine the books I will have in THAT library..lots of L. Ron Hubbard material, I am guessing!) Speaking of that..I wonder if I ought to request kosher meals, or maybe Hindu veg..

Panda: I suppose my "restraint" will do me in good stead in my new destination! But I do wished I could have thought of a retort like that at the time! That guy just went on and on about how important he was and how rude I was for standing around and coughing lightly every now and then to remind him that I was waiting.

thursdaysd

eks - I think the trick for My Son is to go early in the day with your own car and driver, so you can have the site almost to yourself (at least you could when I went in '02 and '04). Plus, you skip the shopping ops that come with the coach tours.

Recommend adding an iPod or equivalent (maybe the Kindle?) to the computer request - that way you can download books.

Nice retort there, Gpanda. I did challenge a woman hogging a computer at a London B&B last fall - she was on it when I came down for breakfast and still there when I finished. I asked for five minutes and she grumbled but after I sat and stared at her for a couple of minutes she left. Guess she didn't have 13 employees hanging on her every word (bet they wished the 'net had never been invented!).

Gpanda

In truth, quick pithy retorts are a panda specialty, much to the long-suffering Beth's discomfort. I've found that well-phrased scorn and ridicule are very useful tools in dealing with the unfriendly anti-panda elements of society. I reference my ongoing sniping at Bob as an example.

However, my appreciation of your restraint still stands. I can't tell you how many times I wished that I had ignored a jerk and not thrown kerosene on the fire.

Keep the report going, the conclusion must be near after only 4 1/2 montths.

Nywoman

Eks,

Have been away for a week with no computer, have suffered great withdrawal symptoms, and anxieties,how can I possibly complete my travel plans without all your restauant recommendations?

Am sure that the librarian is very happy to see you so is it possible
to know about Hue and Saigon before too long? Am totally counting on you to do all the legwork for me.

Of course it goes without saying That I love your reports.

61luv2travel

bookmark

lisa

Great report!

DH & I loved Thailand & Cambodia and have been contemplating either Vietnam or Bali for next year. Hadn't really considered Laos, as one of my best friends, who has been everywhere, had nothing good to say about it -- must now reconsider.

Keep up the good work (and don't let the panda get you down).

Gpanda

The work is good, even superb, it's the diligence that we question. We feel abandoned.

ekscrunchy

Panda..Please do not feel abandoned! You are often in my thoughts! And then I start to feel so guilty (and fearful about my upcoming mandated "vacation&quot that I banish those thoughts!

I am back home at computer for a few days and will try to get moving along here soon. NYWoman..I hate to think I am holding you up..if you ahve any specific questions about Hue or Saigon, please ask them here as I can respond quickly without going through all the machinations of writing the report. (I don't mean that this will be instead of the report, just that I could answer the questions faster...)

ekscrunchy

A bit more...



The drive took us past China Beach, which looked lovely even in the gloomy weather, and the large base used by the US Army during the War. Our first prolonged stop that morning was at Danang’s Cham Museum. Of Indo-Malay descent, the Cham occupied the central coastal region from about the second century B.C. Although their kingdom was absorbed into Vietnam in the 15th Century, they remain a distinct ethnic minority, with a written language related to Sanskrit. The Cham Museum in Danang is a delight. Housed in, and on the grounds, of an ochre-colored French Colonial building dating from the 1930s, the sandstone sculptures and temple fragments comprise the richest collection of Cham artwork in the world. There are Shivas, Ganeshas, Nagas, and absolutely charming smiling lions, among other works. You do not need a guide here, I found it thrilling to just wander around on my own (although I was accompanied by my guide, all the same). Maps details the former and current areas of Cham settlement and centers of population. Excellent!

Our visit occupied about an hour and after that we were northward bound, towards the Hai Van pass, which, as the highest point between Hoi An and Hue, served as a natural defense during various conflicts. The road zig zags upwards and we passed several concrete bunkers that had been used by the French and the Americans. There are observation posts along the road and the view over the rice paddies down to the sea is awesome, even in misty weather. The road climbs and climbs, and then after about an hour, reaches the crest and suddenly begins to descend. We were now once again in northern Vietnam. The coastal village of Lang Co, on a peninsula between a lagoon and the sea, was picturesque and, in good weather, might make an interesting lunch stop. There are some lovely beaches along this route, too.

After about 3 hours, we reached the outskirts of Hue, where the ground was once again littered with bunkers and military installations. My first glimpse of Hue was encouraging: Most of the buildings are low-rise and there appeared to be lovely promenades along the river banks. My home for the next two nights was the La Residence, an Art Deco masterwork that had been restored and re-opened as a hotel only recently. I am sorry that the hotel’s website does not do the place justice:

http://www.la-residence-hue.com/inde...id=2&lang=


If you have the slightest bit of interest in 20th Century architecture, plan to pay a visit when you are in Hue. That said, the standard room that I was given was non-descript and had no view. I chose to upgrade to a river-view room, which I found more pleasing, even though the river, with the Citadel behind it, is off in the near distance. But the public places, and the grounds, are so wonderful that it was difficult to quibble.

After checking in and saying goodbye to my guide and driver (they would pick me up the next day for touring) my first order of business was to find lunch and I was determined to sample top-notch examples of the cuisine which is always mentioned as among the best in Vietnam. I had a few names, and with those in hand, I approached the front desk.

Craig

Back from the dead...

Thanks for sticking with it.

Gpanda

Even taking into account all of the harping that I've done, I agree with Craig that you're stick-to-it attitude is amazing. It will come into play when the final calculations are computed.

j_4tay

ekscrunchy,

Excellent report! Thanks for sharing and making easy (short paragraphs) for us to read.

Nywoman

These are restaurants recommended to me by a Vietnamese cookbook author. Did you try any of them?
Chi Teo
Lac Thien
Ong Tan
Quan Am Phu
Lac Thanh

Seriously you are not holding me up.
Was only trying to induce some guilt in you. I truly enjoy the trip report and look forward to reading it, thought it might prod you. It was purely self serving.

ekscrunchy

Ny: Where (city?) are these restaurants? I wish that I had had some input from a Vietnamese cookbook author!

Nywoman

Hi,
Sorry should have said Hue.

I got her list after my Hue dinner at Cendrillon in NYC a few months ago.

ekscrunchy

Ny: I did not go to any of those places. I will discuss where I ate in the next "installment." Meanwhile, I will refer you to Chowhound. Do a search for the thread entitled, "A Bit More on Vietnam." I added a few comments there, including one about one of the places in Hue, called Hang Me (!!) The OP on that thread gives some sage advice.

BTW: Highway Four, which is mentioned on the CH thread, was on my Hanoi list but I never got there. I have heard good things, though, so you might want to check it out. It was featured on a program on the travel channel, with Bourdain or Andrew Z (I cannot remember which one; not sure how this would bode for a restaurant; the same show also featured Cha Cha La Vong, the famous catfish place in Hanoi) Interesting program if you can catch a repeat.

ekscrunchy

Hang Me, at #45 Vo Thi Sau, was the name at the top of my list of good eating places in Hue, and it was the name I spoke to the front desk person at La Residence that afternoon. I wanted to know if I could walk there, or if I would need a taxi. My mention of this place, however, brought a look approaching horror to the man’s face. He appeared flustered, and then told me that the restaurant was closed. But this was only about 1:30pm..did eating places in Hue really close that early? He disappeared, returning in a moment with a colleague in tow. Yes, it turned out that the restaurant was open but it was not a good choice for me. Why not? Well, it serves only “pastry.” “Pastry?” I told them, no matter, I would like to try it out and asked them to get me a taxi. More confusion..wait, wait….”I think that today is the vacation day.” By this time I was more determined than ever to make it to the restaurant with the unusual name. They dutifully called me a taxi and I set off, to be deposited minutes later at a tiny, open-air nook with a few tables and cooking equipment in the rear. More confusion when I entered. I checked the address out front. Yes, this was, indeed, #45 Vo Thi Sau.
The owner and waitress quickly recovered from their chock of seeing a lone western female at their door, and ushered me to one of the metal tables.

I will say here that in Vietnam, there seems to be a sharp divide between locally patronized restaurants and those oriented toward group tourists. Attempts to dine at the former were always received with some surprise, followed by warmth and friendliness. Hang Me proved no different. The place is more street stall than actual restaurant. Open to the narrow lane in front and outfitted with metal tables and plastic chairs, the place does have English translation on its brief menu. One look at this document and I understood the mention of “pastry.” The specialty here is rice four crepes, in several forms and stuffed with a variety of meat and vegetable ingredients. For 55,000VND (US$3.28) I sampled the entire menu. Rice flour crepes stuffed with shrimp and herbs, rice four dumplings stuffed with pork and chives, and an array of other “small plates.” All very tasty. Recommended.

A taxi ride back to the hotel (walking would have been lovely in better weather), some time at the free computer in the lobby, and it was time for dinner. The restaurant at La Residence had been recommended to me by several fellow guests and so I booked a table there for that evening.

rodash17

ekscrunchy,

This is a great report- have really enjoyed reading about your adventures.

I have a couple of questions for you about your time in Laos.

My husband and I are going to Luang Prabang for a 3 night stay at Residence Phou Vao in November.

I am a bit worried having recently discovered that Laos is endemic for Dengue Fever. I was encouraged, however, by your comment that you didn't come across many mozzies-- although, I take it you still used lots of repellent ? Did you notice if the hotel takes any precautions on behalf of their guests?

Has anyone else encountered any problems with mosquito-borne illnesses on vacation in these areas?

Back to happier topics: is it quite easy to get a taxi from the airport to the hotel or should we arrange in advance for someone to meet us?

Also, would you recommend having a guide while there or just taking it easy and 'winging it'? We would like to see the Pak Ou caves and the main temple in town but otherwise we just want to relax and soak up some of the local ambience as the rest of our trip is quite busy.

many thanks and look forward to reading the rest of your report!

rodash17

ekscrunchy

I am glad you are enjoying the report so far, even if it is coming in dribs and drabs.

In January I saw no mosquitos in LP as far as I can recall, nor did I wear any repellent.

I liked having a guide for a day or two but you certainly can do without one if you choose. The town is supremely easy to navigate on your own; you could also do the caves on your own. Just make sure you do see them, as I thought they were marvelous. Be aware that there is some steep walking to the two caves from the riverbank.

I was collected at the airport, which is quite close to town, perhaps 10 minutes by car. (I had arranged a transfer in advance through the travel agent; I am sure I paid far too much for this service!)

I do not remember seeing any taxis anyplace in town, although they must have some. I got around either by walking, or via tuk tuk (small, open-back truck with bench seating in back) when I was not with the guide and his driver. I would guess that you can wing it and organize transport from the airport to the hotel once you arrive. Or you could ask the hotel to pick you up... The airport is small and not in the least bit confusing, so there would be no reason for any kind of nervousness.

Gpanda

It's a very simple matter to get a taxi to your hotel from the airport. There's a short line after exiting the building. Impossible to miss. US dollars and Thai Baht can be used to pay the cheap fare.