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Old Jan 9th, 2011, 02:35 PM
  #41  
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Indianapearl - would you suggest taking a car all the way through Agra or is it better to connect with the train in Jhansi? Do you recall the time it took to get between Orchha & Agra by car? Would a train be faster? And were the sites along the way worth seeing - ie small villages, etc.?
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 06:31 AM
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We drove south from Agra to Gwalior, spent the night there, then drove south through Jhansi, then east to Orchha. I would say several hours all together.

Check travelaw's report. She took the train from Agra to Jhansi. I think she went by car to O. and K.
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 10:46 AM
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One of the best local companies to provide a wide variety of hotels for online bookings in various ranges is travelguru.com

Also check yatra.com and cleartrip.com. The latter is newer than the others and very close to Kayak in what it offers.
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 06:34 PM
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re: small villages, this one is the Ganj outskirt of Orchha. Love the pix, and the work they are doing in this organization. This is the homestay for when i finally get there!

http://www.orchha.org/ganjphotos.php
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Indianapearl - already read Travelaw's report, which is why I was wondering if it is best to take the train or travel the entire way by car from Khajuraho to Agra.

CaliNurse - what great pictures! I think I can withstand the teeth rattling drive.
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Old Jan 10th, 2011, 07:49 PM
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dgunbug -- the road from Agra to Jhansi is extremely bad and beyond teeth rattling. Our driver suggested that we take the train between those two points while he braved driving it with our bags. He met us in Jhansi and we drove to Orchha and then on to Khajuraho. I think unless the road has recently been upgraded, it is best to take the train at least part way and have your driver meet you on the other end.
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Old Jan 11th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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Travelaw - thanks for the advice. Looks like we will take the train.

I am curious why more people don't use the trains for more of their transportation, hiring cars or tuk tuks once arriving at the destination.
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Old Jan 11th, 2011, 04:54 PM
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Cali - just checked out the homestay. Wow - it looks awesome. I'd love to stay there!
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Hi dgunbug
Dogster's comments sre always of great value. I have lived for 18 years in India although most of my life has been abroad in Australia. My father was an army officer who was posted to a different place every three years. So I am familiar with trains and travel in India. We travel back occasionally and will be going there in March/April this year. We have travelled several times to Jaipur and so find is interesting that you are only spending one day there. There is a lot to see in Jaipur and it is a good introduction to the Rajasthani way of life. We never stay in 5 star hotels and generally never pay more than $A $100. We look for smaller hotels and homestays and always get recommendations from other travellers. The journey from Jhodpur to Jaisalmere can be covered by bus as long as you have good ear muffs as all Indian long distance buses have blaring Indian movies or music. When there are Europeans travelling, the bus driver turns up the sound level so they can appreciate it more!!
Indian trains can be a mixed bunch. The well travelled ones like the Taj express are generally clean and run on time. Others which come from far away can be delayed for several hours at a time, so you could be waiting on a dirty, hot platform or in the waiting room with a crowd of noisy people. Toilets are far from clean. You get to mix with the local people on trains (I am not suggesting 3rd class) who will ask you all sorts of personal questions but provide evasive answers if you asked the same of them. On the other hand you may have a wonderful experience and make new friends. You will stared at a lot - don't take offence, just smile. Just as you are there to take in the sights, you are a sight for the locals. They (especially hotel staff) will love it if you take the photograph and post a copy back to them (take some envelopes to get them to write their address on them for you)
A colleague of mine will be returning from just all the places in Rajasthan and South India where you want to stay. Although well heeled, they are not staying in 5 star hotels and I will be happy to get some comments from her and relay them to you. I tried to talk her into doing the hot air balloon trip in Jaipur so that I would have something to decide on for myself, but could not talk her family of four into it. Anyway we have decided to do it ourselves after talking to someone else who has done it. The same company also has trips in Jaisalmer, Udaipur and Pushkar.

We will be spending five weeks in Delhi, Jaipur, Pushkar, Chittoghaur, Kota, Bundi, Todi Garh, Tonk. All these places are within 200 km of Jaipur and are smaller towns which will give my Australian husband a better taste of true Indian life. In Kota we will be staying on a farm. In Chittaughaur we will stayin Castle Biajiapur and travel back to Chittaughaur for their new sound and light show.
The Sound and Light Show at the Red Fort in Delhi is a must, though if you have no idea of Indian history, it would probably just be a jumble of flashing lights and sound. Similarly, Gwalior between Agra and Orcha is worth a stop including attending their sound and light show. Orcha is very worthwhile and is a long drive from Gwalior.
We will also be travelling to either Amritsar or the Corbett National park. No we do not expect to see a tiger. If you are wanting to go to a tiger park, I would recommend Ranthambore and can give you the name of a good hotel there (not 5 star).
Let me know if you want any specific information.
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Rasputin - Thank you for your comments. To begin, I always enjoy Dogster's remarks and neglected to thank him for posting the links above. As for Jaipur, I actually accounted for 1 1/2 days there, but may consider an extra day. I have read several comments which indicated that one day was enough in Jaipur. I am jealous that we don't have the amount of time you have. I'd also love to get up to Amristar, but don't see how to fit it all in. Don't think I want to take a bus...we will probably hire a car at least one way between Jhodpur to Jaisalmer - that way we can stop along the way if we want to. I'd love to hear more from you, in particular, any hotel recommendations in a price range below $100. Thanks!
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 05:08 PM
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Rasputin, I love your thoughtful comments to Dgunbug. WIll keep for future trip to Rajasthan.
YES, please, name of the hotel at Ranthambore? My daughter is a tiger fanatic, and this is one way i lure her to accompany me to India! (We were lucky enough to see the elusive creature at Kabini, and from the small boat, were riveted between site of tiger at lake's edge, and crocodile in the water).
Dgunbug, sounds like you have decided on Jaisalmer vs Amritsar. IMHO, very wise (though i loved Amritsar) given limited time. Trust me, you will not regert having a few more days somewhere, without extra travel. There will be another time to see other parts of this amazing land! It is all too easy to bite off more than we can chew, when fascinated by the wonders of India.Think "less is more"...andyou aer seeing so much already, lucky lady and husband!

IF you want a suggestion for a nice, clean, newer hotel in Jaisalmer, less than $50/night, let me know. I have corresponded with the owner, a New Zealander married to a local Jaisalmar fellow. She is the friend of my friend.Their place also gets good reviews on Tripadvisor. Her husband's family are long time residents for years, and i think somehow involved with camel business--they will get you a trip to the desert if you want that.
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Old Jan 12th, 2011, 06:40 PM
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Calinurse - I would greatly appreciate your recommendation for a hotel in Jaisalmer. All recommendations are welcome.
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Old Jan 13th, 2011, 07:50 AM
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I've just looked at your itinerary again. I'd spend less time in Delhi and Udaipur, more time in Jaipur and Jodhpur.
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Old Jan 20th, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Dgunbug,sorry i did not see your last question until now.

The name of the Jaisalmer Guest House is Desert Moon.

http://www.desertmoonguesthouse.com/

The double rooms are about $25-30/night per night.

If you write to Lois (the owner) say you were referred by a friend of Karen's from Indiamike!
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 04:05 AM
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CaliNurse, thanks for the info on the Desert Moon guesthouse.
Indianpearl - still working on our itinerary. We think we will add Bikaner into the lot. Wish we had time for Amistrar too, but we know there's only so much one can fit into a limited time frame.
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 01:01 PM
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http://indianpanorama.in/225rajasthan_4corners.html

HI again, Dgunbug.

Sending the above link for perhaps helpful ideas, b/c it includes many of places you want to visit, plus some extras which are off the usual Rajasthan tourist trail. (THis plan has me drooling for a visit to Rajasthan on a future trip!)
you can add here, subtract there, but it might help you with ideas for finalizing your own itinerary. This particular one is 19 days--so you have 5 "extra" days in your 24 day total, for Khajurao, Varanasi, adding days to Jaipur and Jodhpur, etc.

I loved Amritsar, but as stated somewhere else here, I think you are wise to save it for another trip, going in that general direction.

Unless Pushkar is already on the direct route, based on what i've read here on Fodors, it is not worth a stop (it is lised on the above itin)

Continued happy planning!
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 01:56 PM
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i have most of my accomodations set but i am stuck thus far for bikener and jaisalmer... this discussion helps thanks..
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 02:05 PM
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Bob - Care to share your itinerary and where you will be staying? I'd love to get ideas. We haven't resolved the itinerary, yet alone made reservation number one.

CaliNurse - thanks so much for the valuable info.
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 04:17 PM
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sure..

we fly into kolkata from bkk and will stay for several days at the ITC Sonar (sheraton).
from there we fly to varanasi via Lucklow (sp) and will be staying for 3 nights at temple on the ganges, thanks to lcuy's suggestion
from there a flt to delhi, and an overnight at marriott courtyard gurgaon. the next day we fly to kathmandu and stay at the hyatt for 5 nights.
then back to delhi, and an overnight at the courtyard again.
our driver will pick us up there and we will drive next to jaipur and stay 3 nights at the four points sheraton... we have had 3 days in jaipur before so hope to see more outside the city.
from there we drive to udaipur and stay at the sheraton udaipur palace for 4 nights.
from there we drive to jodhpur for 3 nights at ratan villas.
from there we drive to jaisalmer for 2 nights at a yet to be determinded place.
and from there we drive to bikener for 2 nights also yet to be decided upon... would love more suggestions for either of these places???????????????????
then we drive back through jaipur probably staying the night at the new marriott or back at the 4 pts.
finally our driver will take us to delhi where we will stay 2 nights at Thikana B&B (we are quite excited about this place).
our final night will be at the courtyard near the airport at gurgaon yet again.

the driver has been arranged through castle and king, just as it was on our previous trip, although i am doing all the hotels myself this time. he is also arranging for some local guides for us in select places and a pick-up at the varanasi airport.

our finn air flt has a one day layover (25 hours) in helsinki on the way home and i have booked the hotel kamp (sheraton) for some lux and probably another $85 pizza... actually there is a very good indian restaurant near to the hotel... on the way over we have a 13 hour layover in helsinki and we will rent a car for the day and drive out into the country probably.

btw, we fly from nyc on finn air with fantastic departure and arrival times to bkk and the return from delhi... all are perfect travelling times.... will earn miles on American Airlines...

the sheratons in india offer very favorable points and cash programs---mostly 2800 pts and $45 per night, some 4000 pts and $60. this makes the hotels a steal in india...

marriott courtyard is only 10,000 pts which is cheap for a courtyard stay too... we had planned to do some heritage hotel stays but i can't pass up these lower cost alternatives and the comfort they offer. we may do the heritage stays in the two cities in the west of the country.

we depart oct 18 and will be home on dec 2 after a sleep over in southern CT....
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Old Jan 21st, 2011, 05:59 PM
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I'm so envious of your trip Bob! It looks wonderful. I was in Jaipur for a week and loved it, but it was too long ago for any of my info to be useful now. For Karen, you can buy her jewelry that is traditional to Rajasthan when you are there. It's red and green enamel work set in gold called "Meena work".

When you are in Varanasi, try to stop into one of the high end sari shops and look at the Varanasi saris. They are a specialty of Varanasi and are beautiful weaves of silk and gold or silver. It's not the stuff you see hanging in the open air bazaars.

Each region of India has its own style of weaving or printing saris and textiles. It's fun to see them once you know to look for them.
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