rhkkmk

i think my issue with hotels under $100 in the cities would be the level of sanitation.... in the country it is a different story of course....

what can you find in delhi, for instance, for under $100 and then you have thrown in "good location" too???

to this you have to add the "indian attitude"... i do not mean this in a derogetory way, but quite honestly some business people are simply not that honest.... read the hotel reviews and you will find this...

i think the point about having an agency behind you is a very strong one... especially a small agency which is very personal....that is one reason i like castle and king....compass is another agency some have used with good luck and there are many more...

my trip is going to be very similar to yours, not quite in the same order as i am working east to west, but i am finding that advance booking of many hotels is difficult on line....

the cash and points with starwoods is working well for me in some locations: varanasi, delhi, udaipur, jaipur

dogster

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-travelawg.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...t-381549-2.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...e-172399-2.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...ad-bangkok.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...a-jan-2010.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...afantastic.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...rip-report.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...a-long-one.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...a-to-india.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...ttaranchal.cfm

These should keep you happy. Read.

thursdaysd

"the Rajasthan tourist track the entire way - where the prices are high and the touts ferocious" - I'm starting to think we should call it the Iron Triangle rather than the Golden Triangle (although it's golden for Indian tourist people, of course). But I went there too - I just went to a bunch of other places, as well.

"that's totally acceptable in temples, etc. to wear socks" - I've seen southern temples where that's not true, but southern temples are a bit cleaner. I just clean my feet off with a tissue.

I've just been to Lucknow, and I wasn't as impressed as Jaya. The Residency was very atmospheric (but you might need to be a Brit or an Indian or a history buff to appreciate it) but the Imambaras were in poor shape and not that interesting, and my hotel rather tired. See my TR: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...an-sojourn.cfm - I'd go to Amritsar or the hills.

Really, Bob, if you're willing to go as high as $100 you should have no problem. I stay considerably cheaper than that, and I've encountered only a few real dumps. Just two on this trip - Bijapur and Madurai. Lots of suggestions on the other thread.

dgunbug

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions. And for the record, my DH is not quite the "lunatic" that you may think! He is quite the adventurer although on occasion, a bit mislead. but I believe in the end after much research, he will see the light and we will have a fantastic journey. He really is quite the traveler and a wonderful navigator. Likely after returning from India, he will tell me how he could have driven!!!

Dogster - I have already read most of the posts you have provided which is why I have chosen this preliminary itinerary. I understand that there are stops in between cities I have mentioned and we will also try to make those. Of course the unplanned incidences and places explored are usually the best, but why not give away your secrets?

We are concentrating our journey in the most traveled places as they have been highlighted by many others on this and other boards, with the expectation of returning if we fall in love with India, to explore other areas as well. If there are particular places we have not included that would enhance our itinerary, please let us know.

CaliNurse

Dgunbug, your attitude about hotels is perfect. You want clean and comfortable--fancy and expensive isnt necessary!

"Yes We CAN" get good, clean, hotels and **HOMESTAYS** for $100 or less!!!!!

Each person has a "bottom line" for what they are willing to accept in accommodation, in the name of economy. Mine is need for "western" toilet, and a separate shower enclosure. I cant stand the ones where the water just sprays out drains all over the bathroom .. Last time that happened, in a place last June, it was on a slippery linoleum floor. Yuck!!!!!

Dogster, you snarly old pup, what's wrong with loving India after just one trip? Is it less "authentic" if someone on a first trip has a fantastic time?
I feel that way that after three times, and hope it continues (even if i use some of YOUR recs for the next trip, heehee). i actually love the craziness. You know you got it bad when you look at a photo with a pile of rubbish and think, Oh, how i miss India!!

One of these days i'll ask DD how to post photos here--perhaps that will help explain it!

Like Indiana, i loved Amritsar, especially the Golden Temple and its "vibe" of devotion and serenity amidst huge crowds of pilgrims. Is it worth a trip JUST to go there? Glad we were there, but I dont know the answer. We were on our way from New Delhi to Dharamsala, and it was a convenient stop. Perhaps you can get a similar emotional experience of a devoted community at other large Sikh temples.

re: Lucknow, we all have diff experiences....but one of my best friends is from Lucknow, and even she did not recommend to make a special trip there, unlessalready in its vicinity.

If you have the urge to fly to a locale other than what you've already planned, you might want to follow the plan 520, who recently returned. She spent the last week of her trip in part of Kerala, which is very different from what you will experience in the North. She spent bookoo bucks at some of the hotels so I repeat--you can find wonderful places to stay hotels for $100 night--you do NOT have to spend that kind of money to LOVE India and have a great trip.

CaliNurse

RHKKMK...I used the Starwood "cash and points" at two hotels: The ITC Maurya in New Delhi , and the ITC Mughal in Agra. I think the latter came to $30, the former to $100, including taxes. Be aware, if not already, that hey will charge you the tax you would have paid at the rack rate. Unfortunately, i didnt have enough points to use them for 100% of the stay--b/c then you mpay neither room fee nor tax!!

BTW, we loved the Maurya, and if you can get it for the New Delhi segment using Starpoints, your search for a great $100/night hotel is over!

Clark55

I have to say that the train journeys we took we didn't have a problem looking for our carriage, coz as soon as we arrived in the taxi we were surrounded by porters the quickest just slung our 2 suitcases on top of his head and didn't stop until he had deposited them under the seat of our pre reserved carriage.
Getting back to reserving things, our last holidays have all been pretty last minute as we're never really sure when we can get away but we had 6 weeks to arrange everything in India and we did book all our hotels and transport before we left. However, if you book your hotels so far in advance you will be paying full price, probably more as the hotels aren't going to lose anything by hiking up the prices so far in advance, I say this as a hotel manager myself. It all depends if you want peace of mind to have everything booked so far ahead or not.

dgunbug

It sounds like many of you are in favor of a visit to Amristar. Have you all flown or is there a better way with stops along the way? If you were to choose between Amristar and Jaisalmer, both a bit out of the way, which would you pick? Also, if I were to go to Amristar, is there anything to combine that with? How many days do you suggest for Amristar?

Calinurse - While we would love to also see the southern region of India, I don't really think we have enough time to fly all around and that would necessitate an additional flight back to Delhi which we leave out of. Think we will save other regions for future trips.

indianapearl

dgunbug: "I found a rather limited list of hotels and prices and they were fairly ho-hum . . ."

I wanted to stay in heritage hotels wherever possible. When I presented these ideas to several agencies, they kept offering what I would call contemporary hotels rather than heritage properties or else properties that were much too expensive. Once I decided to book everything myself, I confess to adopting travelaw's itinerary fairly heavily.

I also felt that my original itinerary spent too much time in Rajasthan (my bad). That's why we went to Amritsar (flew directly from Delhi, then back through Delhi to Jodhpur). I also wanted to go to Gwalior which is a bit off the beaten track.

The road between Orchha and Khajurahao is pretty bad. I'd figure out another way to get there or omit Orchha. The road from Agra to Jhansi isn't too bad, but going from Jhansi to Orchha was a tooth-rattling experience.

I agree with those who suggest less time in Delhi and Khajurahao. I also think you've booked one more day in Udaipur than it needs, but you're going to schlep all the way our to Jaisalmer, then stay there only one or two nights.

dgunbug

Not sure I care for the tooth-rattling experience. If we do not go to Orcha, how would we get back from Khajurahao to Delhi? Is it worth flying to Khajurahao or could we find similar temples somewhere else? Is there a flight from Khajuraha to Amristar? (I don't recall that being the case)

Also, is Jaisalmer worth going to, given its distance from everything, or is it more of the same that is already on the itinerary?

CaliNurse

You dont have to fly to Amritsar. You can take the early morning Shatabti Express from the main New Delhi RR Station. If i recall right, it's a 5.5 hour trip, so you'll arrive in the early afternoon. Time-wise , when we counted getting out to the ND airport, arriving before the flight, etc, it didnt take that much more of the day than taking the train.

I dont know that i would make a special trip up to Amritsar. We loved it, but we were already heading in that direction, toward Himachal Pradesh.
One night is enough for Amritsar, without feeling rushed. You can go out to the Wagagh/Atari border which happens late afternoon about 4 or 5 pm if you want to see the theatrical border closing ceremony (search on youtube for Michael Palin documentary video of it)...then Golden Temple at night, which is amazing...next morning back to the Temple to see the food preparation, etc...then to the Martyrs Memorial Park, Jallianwalagh Bagh. It is an amazing 24 hours trip.The guide we used (the brother of the guide rec by Indianapearl) knows other interesting local places you could do that afternoon. We loved the old part of town surrounding the Temple--very chaotic!

re; your question about Jaiselmer...have not been. However, I've not met anyone or heard of anyone, who does NOT recommend it, or regrets going. I use Indiamike as a source for much of this and otehr India feedback--esp'lly since several of the folks i've personally met from there, have been to India numerous times. A night under the stars at a camp in the desert nr Jaiselmer? Different from much t of Rajasthan--yes! Count me in!! Having experienced similar in the Sahara--no way would I miss that when i finally make it to W Rajasthan.

Unlike Indiana's experience, the travel planner we used NEVER put us in "modern" "contemporary" hotels rather than what we usually requested --which was reasonably priced, older places/"heritage" hotels. I sense that many of these agents stereotype Americans , so they steer us THEY think all Americans want . (Our travel agent is not like that-whichi s why we use her for India trips)
Since we are speaking of Amritsar--one exception to this request for older hotels was there, where (knowing my usual preference) the agent booked us first a homestay, then heritage hotel Svaasa (which is where Indiana stayed, i think)--but we wanted a specific hotel--very modern, gorgeous pool (remember, summer temp was over 100 degrees F when we were there) so we stayed at Ista, which we loved, as a true oasis in the heat.

As Thursdays recommended above--IF you are going to Amritsar, you might consider a route that takes you toward the mts, eg Dharamsala and/or Shimla. You'll be seeing the hills and mountains, and snow covered Himalayan peaks in the distance. If interested in Tibetan culture, you'lll love Dharamsala McLeod Ganj area. If not--not worth a separate trip, IMHO.

If you do contemplate going in that direction, d instead of Varanasi , you could instead go to Haridwar and Rishekwsh,. I was in Varanasi, yrs ago when it wasnt as crazy/touristy as now, so my experince of it is quite different. But At Haridwar and Rishikesh, you'll supposedy have a much calmer similar experience, according to my friends who go --esp'lly since Kumbh Mela wont happen again for a few yrs!

Now if you want to see all the above places mentioned in this thread (your itinerary, plus suggestions--i.e Rajastan, Delhi, Agra, Amritsar, spiritual Ganges town, area near Amristar)--it IS doable, but also means LOTS of travel. I am sending the links below b/c they give you an idea of just how much traveling you'll have to do to see it ALL. Again, it is a LOT--not much r and r time. Do you want that, or would you prefer more nights in each place, as in your stated itinerary? I guess i'm saying, make a reality check of how much you WANT to do, and at what cost to your energy/taking it in level. As you said above, if you love India, you will be back..so dont aim to see it all on this trip.

On the other hand, in the links i sent, you'll see in these itins some suggestions for "off the beaten track"places both in Rajasthan and NOrth. One of my fav places in the world is at Pragpur, Himachal Pradesh. Wonderful, if you want that "gee, we're the only Westerners" village experience.

http://indianpanorama.in/211c-himachal_uttarakhand.html

http://indianpanorama.in/225rajasthan_4corners.html

indianapearl

We didn't go to Jaisalmer. You can fly from Khajurahao to Delhi, then connect to a flight to Amritsar. I found when making our plans that flights in India quite often route through Delhi and Mumbai. It's harder to get a direct flight from one small city to another.

We enjoyed the temples at Khajurahao, but others have reported more beautiful temples in the south. The K. temples were not defaced by invaders back in the day, so they're famous just because the images are intact.

Have you checked out travelocity.com.in??

indianapearl

I'd agree with CaliNurse that less is more. You will be ready for some down time, so budget that into your itinerary. Udaipur is a lovely place to relax. Also, we went in Nov/Dec, so the weather was perfect. I'd also say we spent too much time driving. If I had it to over, I'd omit Gwalior and Orchha (but the fort at Gwalior is really delightful). One can't see it all.

dgunbug

Thursday - can you elaborate on the bunch of other places you also went to and where you would recommend in addition to the typical Rajastan tourist track? Remember, our time is restricted.

Calinurse and Indianapearl - thanks for your imput as well.

thursdaysd

dgunbug - might be simpler if you read my TRs:
http://wilhelmswords.com/asia2001/index.html
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...an-sojourn.cfm
Itinerary for the current trip after Hampi has been: Palolem, Mangalore, Kannur, Coorg, Mysore, Coonoor, Trivandrum, Madurai, Chettinad region, Trichy, Pondy, Chennai.

Although for your itinerary Orchha and the Shekhawati region are the most likely additions, but I would encourage you to visit Amritsar and head for the north-west hills, which I hope will be my next trip to India.

althom1122

As you know, I went on a package tour, so my opinion may not be valued (ouch!), but I think your time in Jaipur is a bit short. We took the same train from Delhi (the 6:05) and spent 2 nights in Jaipur. I'd have loved one more day there. If I hadn't been with a group, I'd have probably been more aggressive with my touring on day 2, but an extra day would have been nice. If you keep it as is, plan your time there carefully.

Also, I agree that you've allowed too much time for Khajuraho - one night is enough.
And although Orchha was the only small town we visited, I loved it and would urge you not to skip it.

Some of your other choices are on my mind for a future trip...
I'm just back and so jealous of your plans! What a great time you'll have. I think that most of the hotels we stayed in were similar to the style you're going for. I think you'll love it.

dgunbug

Thanks for the feedback. Thursday - that's some trip you took! Wish we had the time.
Althom - we will reconsider about adding a day in Jaipur. Perhaps we will take a day from Delhi as well. I was beginning to reconsider Orchha although I noted that you enjoyed it and so did others. How did you find the roads? And of course your opinion is greatly appreciated even though you were on a package tour. I have taken notes from your trip and may check out several of your hotels.

Marija

Three years ago we took the road from Khajuraho to Orchha to catch the train to Agra and I didn't find the road any worse than other roads in the area. (Before heading out to Orchha we had returned from a five hour road trip from Bandhavgarh.)I really enjoyed the time on the roads since there's so much going on all around you--definitely not boring. For us Orchha was an interesting stop, though not compelling.

Clark55

We had 2 full days in Delhi and it was enough as we covered everything there was to see but the first day we took a taxi 700 rupees for the whole day, organised by the concierge at our hotel, we realised pretty quickly that a taxi is not the best way to visit Delhi because of traffic in fact the next day we hired a tuktuk with a very entertaining driver for the day for 400 rupees and found this a much better way to get around.

indianapearl

Personally I found the road between Agra and Jhansi much smoother than the road from Jhansi to Orchha and Khajurahao. Perhaps I am too old . . .