ellen75005

Another question...again, I need to do some research which I hope to be able to do over the Christmas break but...

Castle & King is recommending that we visit both Udaipur and Jaipur and I think we may have to choose between the two. Which would you choose and why if you were able to visit only one of them?

I do love julies' recommendation: "Take a look at spending a couple nights in a heritage property in Rajasthan that is owned and run by the former minor royalty. It really gives one a glimpse of the life of the rich in the past."

Thanks!

MmePerdu

My favorite city in Rajasthan in Jodhpur. I find it quite thrilling and intimate in the old city and the Fort is wonderful, inside and seen from the roofs of many accommodations, lit up at night & seeming to float above the city.

On my first trip there I also stayed a few days at the heritage property Rohet Garh. It's outside the city situated in it's own little fiefdom, a tribal area and wildlife sanctuary because of the beliefs of the people who live there. They do safaris out in the bush and to homes and villages and I cannot recommend it enough. The combination of Jodhpur & Rohet Garh is, I think, unbeatable.

http://houseofrohet.com/rohet_garh/

thursdaysd

I have been to Jaipur, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, but not Udaipur, so I can't compare the two as destinations. However, I would point out that Jaipur is a lot closer to Agra than Udaipur is - four hours by train or car vs. eleven hours (but add some to the car as google is optimistic).

C&K is already displaying the regrettable TA habit of adding places unnecessarily and to the detriment of the overall experience. Don't let them!

dihagraindia

There is no comparison between the two. Udaipur is a beautiful city with many lakes. It is having its own class and style. Whereas Jaipur being a state capital is having a feel of a metro city with so many many people around you. Both cities have the city palaces but the one in Udaipur offers better views as it stands on the man made lake pichola and you see a few more palaces (jag mandir and Jag niwas- now Hotel Taj Lake Palace) on the islands.
When people are looking for relax and enjoying the scenic beauty of lakes and hills around they choose udaipur otherwise Jaipur is more convenient being closer to Agra and Delhi.

ellen75005

MmePerdue, Rohet Garh looks idyllic! I love the idea of staying in a heritage property.

thursdaysd, no worries about C&K. This is our trip, we're paying for it, and in the end, we'll let them know what we want to do. We're active travelers, but we don't want to go crazy hopping from place to place! India is like Australia or the US; there's so much to see and in two weeks, you barely scratch the surface. My feeling is that we can always return if we want to.

That's the push and pull with travel, especially at the age my husband and I are. There's always someplace new to visit, but some countries pull you back. Australia was like that for me, I want to spend more time at Jemaa al Fna in Marrakesh, I have withdrawal symptoms if I don't get to France every few years, etc., etc. And then there are the places we still need to visit for the first time!

After the holidays we'll arrange a call with C&K and finalize our plans. More to come...

Wishing everyone on this thread very happy, safe and relaxing holidays wherever in the world you are.

Ellen

inquest

India,a synonym for leisure,sets its own pace.Little one can do there but to go with the flow.That said,waste not a minute in taking your time imbibing in infinite leisure in India,the culture,the heritage,the history,the colour,the vibrancy the country has to offer.Its a country where haste makes waste,you can't be in a hurry. 'Coz no one is in a hurry. 1.3 billion folks who call it home are on the move,day and night, they are in no hurry.
The Mantra: Few places.More time.

Ellen,from what I gather, you too seem belong to a breed of leisure traveller.I'll bet my bottom dollar that you'll be back in India sooner or later for more.So no hurry.No worry.
Happy planning & travels.

nikhilsharma

I think you have got lot of replies already!

Someone mentioned carrying sanitizes all the way to India? Does not make sense. You get all that at any medical shop!

Also, your itinerary should be Mumbai - Varanai - Agra - Jaipur - Delhi.

Why head to Delhi in the middle of your trip? Doesn't make sense.

Also, a suggestion would be to combine Jaipur with either Jodhpur or Udaipur. (Udaipur is a little far though). Just Jaipur won't do justice.

Also, what about train travel within India? If your dates are finalized, then you better get the train tickets booked (either in 1st AC class or 2nd AC class. The bare minimum would be 3rd AC class). Tickets can be booked 4 months in advance. And if you are traveling during summers (when school holidays are on, which means families are out traveling with their kids), tickets be better booked at the earliest possible time. Train tickets can be quite complex in India. Flights are easier. You may even hire a taxi - little more expensive, but much easier and hassle-free. Try booking it either through Uber (they call it Uber Hire in India) or through your hotel's trusted taxi guys (though these ones tend to be much more expensive than Uber ones).

CaliNurse

Hi again, Ellen. If you're still willing, plrsdr post tentative itin, in case we Fodorites may have some gentle last min suggestions. I know you're eager to have the plan finished! Looks like only one day in Jaipur? is that still in the works/
Darn, wish I'd seen your original post. As an FYI, the name of the travel company mentioned by Kathie is in fact Indianpanorama. Not sure which, if any, "Panorama"s you found in your enquiries, but it likely was a different one.
For future reference, should you visit India again, there's a particular Indianpanorama travel planner I've used for many years; others here have as well now. His knowledge of India is something I take unashamed, if overdone, advantage of!
Re: Agra, I've been twice. I understand that for some, Agra's reputation as a center of chaos, pushy touts, crowd, and air pollution is a turn-off, or simply not enticing, but in fact, I know no one who's actually seen it, whether they anticipated "meh" or "wow" prior to going, who didnt have a jaw-dropping reaction once there, up close and personal. There's no photo or description that prepares you for its real-time magnificence.
If you haven't already, do before your trip try to see the fantastic Mira Nair film "The Namesake"--not just for its scenes of the Taj Mahal, but for so many other things about India and family and life!

vipsha

I carry disinfectant wipes and Purel with me all the time ( although I have to admit I do that in the US too). In India, I clean tables in restaurants before my children can get their hands on them every single time. I carry them from here because I don't want to spend time shopping when I am in India, plus I don't trust the potency and expiry dates there. I carry my own bath tissue. I also carry paper bags.
It is advisable for women to wear dark glasses and not make eye contact with people. Learn to maintain your personal space by carrying an umbrella or similar object to prevent people from invading it. There are good videos on the web demonstrating how.
While my trips to India have been mostly uneventful, I remember the couple of times that I let my guard down, I have been sorry.
I still have family in India and visit every 3 years, I always fly within India and never take trains.
Agree with Thursdaysd that Jaipur is closer to Agra, Udaipur is out of the way. I loved the fort in Jaipur.
In Bombay do try visit the Gandhi museum in Mani Bhavan, it was his residence for many years.
http://gandhimuseum.org/site/gandian...l/mani-bhavan/
Mira Nair's movies provide insight into everyday Indian life, I would add Monsoon Wedding and Salaam Bombay to the list.

ellen75005

Hello again, Fodorites,

My work has kept me busy and I haven't visited the forum too much, but we've accomplished quite a bit since I last wrote. Here is our itinerary which is final and can't be changed. I hope you agree that it will give us a taste of India for the time we're there. This began as a father/daughter trip. My husband and two daughters will be there for two weeks and I'll join them the second week.

Fly from the US to Mumbai - Trident Nariman Point - 3 nights
Fly to Udaipur - Fatehgarh palace - 2 nights
Fly to Delhi - Le Meridien - 2 nights (this is where I join them)
Fly to Varanasi - Shiva Ganges View Guest House - 2 nights
Fly to Delhi and will be met at the airport by a driver to drive directly to Agra - Courtyard by Marriott (daughter's Starwood points) - 2 nights
Drive back to Delhi - Le Meridien - 2 days before we leave at 3:45 a.m. for AMS and the States

We're working with the Castle & King travel agency in Delhi. They have been very responsive and helpful (maybe a little too helpful). They are assuming that we'll be with their guide every minute, I think. We're pretty independent travelers, so we're trying to decide when we want to be with a guide and when we want to be on our own. We will be met by a driver/guide at every airport. We met with a colleague of my daughter's who is from India. He said that we don't want to be on our own at all in Delhi. I'd appreciate your thoughts along those lines for the cities we're visiting.

Again, thanks to everyone who has posted on this and the other threads; your wisdom and advice have been so helpful!

Ellen

PS - CaliNurse, I just read your response on the Mumbai thread where you said a guide is a necessity. Even on the ghats in Varanasi? We'll have a private boat experience on the Ganges, but I wasn't sure that we'd need one to explore the ghats.

thursdaysd

I have spent sixteen weeks in India, split between two trips, and I managed fine without a guide almost the entire time - I very occasionally hired one at a site.

That said, I traveled in 2004 and 2010. It is my impression that India is less safe than it was: gang rape is on the rise and tourists are not immune to attack . In 2004 I traveled around Delhi on my own without worry, I might feel a little differently today (I am an older female).

CaliNurse

Ellen , if you reference the quote in which I said a guide is a "necessity" I'll understand the context. I didn't have a guide in Mumbai, just a taxi driver for the day.

For Mumbai, I booked with Reality Tours, but had to cancel due to time factors. Best Mumbai City Day Tour Packages| Reality Tours and Travel I think someone else on Fodors just recommended them as well.

A good city guide can add a lot to your time in India. Specifically on the Varanasi ghats, I both wandered on my own and later with a local family's daughter (not an official guide). Her knowledge of places, hidden alley shops, people we met (who she, being a native, knew well) "hygienic" places to eat, added to the walk. A reputable local guide can add to your limited time the same way.

Some of my best moments are wandering on my own (including in New Delhi, in contrast to what your daughter's college said); at times I've wished I could lose a gov't site/monument guide (e.g. the Udaipur Palace). Other times, the wealth of what I learned from a knowledgeable local person made the low fee (which in your case will be part of the C and K package) a huge bargain.

Sartoric I hope will see this because in her report she mentioned how much she enjoyed the guide they had for Varanasi. I think he was with Varanasi Walks | Eco-Friendly Tourism I know C ands K will have their own contracted guides (who may be from local agencies) but it's good to have alternatives in the rare case uou might want to find someone else.

What do you mean by a "private boat experience"? Seeing the city from the river, vs seeing it from within, are very different.

Your Varanasi lodging is right on the ghats, so you'll have the full "immersive" experience of nonstop life there! This will be a very different accommodation experience from your other places which are modern chain hotels. But despite having the total vibrant crazy chaotic colorgul Varanasi experience right outside the door, a good guide can add to your time. The local guide will know and even notice things you may not on your own.

So ...do you "need" a guide? No. Do I think a good person in Varanasi (see above for example, and read tripadvisor or similar reviews for it) for a few hours will add greatly to your experience? Yes.

"we'll be with their guide every minute, I think. We're pretty independent travelers, so we're trying to decide when we want to be with a guide and when we want to be on our own." Try not to be too concerned about this...you don't have to decide this now! Remember, IF you feel an omnipresent guide is too much --which is how you describe it--you can politely say, "we need time on our own." However, I think you'll find the reality much less intrusive than you're imagining. Wait 'til you arrive at each place and see how you are doing. As for being met at the airport at each stop, or having the company's personnnel accompany you to the hotels to make sure you're checked in and comfortable ....you will I daresay appreciate this feature.

You are going to have a wonderful, unforgettable time in India!!! I predict you'll want return!

CaliNurse

I just re-looked at your itinerary. and noticed your family's Udaipur hotel. It 's another interesting contrast to the more standard-type hotels. India does "Heritage Hotels" like no other country, and your husband and daughters will love being in one. However, it's outside the main area. Are they ok with that? It will be calmer for sure, but won't have those magnificent iconic nighttime illuminated views of the buildings around Lake Pichola...for me, one of the loveliest things about Udaipur. If they want a heritage hotel, there are some closer to the center, from where they can walk and will not need to drive to explore they city. The calm of being in an outlying area may compensate for that, but on a limited two day trip, be sure they won't miss being closer in.

ellen75005

That's good to know, CaliNurse. I've written to C&K for advice. Are there any particular hotels you - or anyone - can suggest? I'll read all your recent posts more thoroughly this weekend and respond.

Thanks much!

vp_singh

Fatehgarh is a nice property but outside of the City of Udaipur. I guess, in a place like Udaipur with all those beautiful lakes, excellent sunsets over the Aravallis, the winding narrow streets of the Old City and the fabulously lit-up City Palace, one should try to stay closer to the locale. To my mind Hotels Fateh Prakash Palace (Lake View rooms); Shiv Niwas Palace (Terrace Suites) are two very good mid-plus range options. Your dear daughters will love the location and the ambiance, typically ethnic & regal. Hotel Laxmi Vilas Palace located on the Fateh Sagar Lake had some very good rooms on the first floor, where I stayed some years previously.
On the economy side, Hotel Jagat Niwas Palace (Lake facing rooms) are quite ethnic, but has small public area. Another option could be the Madri Haveli, in the streets of Old City (Mini suite). You will need to take a call according to your budget.
Happy Travels!

ellen75005

Thanks very much, vp singh. I wrote C&K who gave me some options and will check them as well as yours (some of which they also suggested). I do think they'd be happier in town with a view of the lake.

Ellen