Pandaw in Myanmar 2013
Aug 20th, 2013 | 03:12 PM
#1
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Pandaw in Myanmar 2013
Hello Fodor friends
I used this forum so much while researching our trip to Myanmar, that I now wish to give back.
We arrived in monsoonal Yangon the day before the start of our 14 night river cruise to Mandalay on RV Indochina Pandaw. Flew in from Singapore with Jetstar Asia, only 2.5 hour flight, so no jet lag to worry about. Immigration was easy, as was getting a taxi. The traffic however was horrendous, the driver lovely. It felt really weird to be in a left hand drive car, driving on the right hand side of the road, but as in most Asian countries there is a certain courtesy on the roads, fast disappearing in western countries.
Our hotel was the Chatrium Royal Lake, with a view from our room to Shwedagon Paya.
The staff were very friendly (as we would discover are the Burmese people in general) nothing too much trouble, and all keen to engage in conversation.
We took a taxi to downtown for 4000 kyats (about USD $4) and wandered the streets admiring a crumbling charm of colonial buildings and street life as you see in other SE Asian cities. Before long a massive downpour turned streets to streams, and umbrella danger became a minor concern. We plonked ourselves down in a beer bar to watch the action, cold draught beer at 600 kyat a glass (glass cold and frosty too). Some fantastic photo opportunities presented, including lines of up to 15 nuns out seeking alms. Apparently they only come out on the day before holidays, which is three times a month. The Buddhists have three holidays each month, new moon day, full moon day and halfway between. We saw plenty of nuns in our 20 days, so not sure if this is accurate.
A pleasant meal was had at the Chinese restaurant in our hotel, reasonably priced and delicious in a lovely setting. There was quite a palaver trying to organise Pandaw to pick up our luggage, but not us, as we wanted to visit Scott Market next morning (closed on Monday when we arrived). A very funny palaver though, three phone calls all with different spellings of the wharf our Pandaw would be at. We also received a tissue paper envelope under our door with very large writing " Please attaché your luague" inside we're two Pandaw luggage tags, we laughed and laughed.
Next morning checkout was smooth, and taxi to Scott Market easy, although traffic again diabolical. We were quite early so the market just opening up (watch out for the washing of the shop fronts !) I was on a mission to secure a pedicure, and found many cosmetic shops but couldn't quite make myself understood that I wanted someone else to apply the nail polish. Eventually, "foot spa" was offered and I was directed to the second floor where two lovely young women worked on my feet. I enjoyed some tea with lots of seeds in it, and got an excellent pedicure for 4000 kyats. Also bought some great sandals for 9400 kyats, and the first of many longyi, a beautiful cotton with silk embroidery in the Shan state style, very tribal. The young woman at the longyi shop had the most amazing blue eyes. When I gasped and exclaimed at her beautiful eyes, she grinned back and said "contacts" , how funny.
My husband helped two young girls who were struggling to open some huge heavy wooden doors, they were besides themselves, and giggled like crazy, again we would see this reaction many times over the next 19 days.
The most amazing thing about Burma was the people, so very friendly and helpful, and now prepared to talk about the political situation that they have endured for many years. Later in the trip I would be brought to tears by the powerful imagery evoked by conversations with our two guides on Pandaw.
Right now am at home and off work due to dysentery, my fault, don 't let that deter you from visiting this fantastic country.
My husband and I are mid to early 50's live on the Gold Coast in Australia, and love travelling. We both still work full time, so can only manage four weeks holiday each year, favourite destinations are, Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, Bali, and oddly enough Spain.
More on Pandaw later.
Caroline
I used this forum so much while researching our trip to Myanmar, that I now wish to give back.
We arrived in monsoonal Yangon the day before the start of our 14 night river cruise to Mandalay on RV Indochina Pandaw. Flew in from Singapore with Jetstar Asia, only 2.5 hour flight, so no jet lag to worry about. Immigration was easy, as was getting a taxi. The traffic however was horrendous, the driver lovely. It felt really weird to be in a left hand drive car, driving on the right hand side of the road, but as in most Asian countries there is a certain courtesy on the roads, fast disappearing in western countries.
Our hotel was the Chatrium Royal Lake, with a view from our room to Shwedagon Paya.
The staff were very friendly (as we would discover are the Burmese people in general) nothing too much trouble, and all keen to engage in conversation.
We took a taxi to downtown for 4000 kyats (about USD $4) and wandered the streets admiring a crumbling charm of colonial buildings and street life as you see in other SE Asian cities. Before long a massive downpour turned streets to streams, and umbrella danger became a minor concern. We plonked ourselves down in a beer bar to watch the action, cold draught beer at 600 kyat a glass (glass cold and frosty too). Some fantastic photo opportunities presented, including lines of up to 15 nuns out seeking alms. Apparently they only come out on the day before holidays, which is three times a month. The Buddhists have three holidays each month, new moon day, full moon day and halfway between. We saw plenty of nuns in our 20 days, so not sure if this is accurate.
A pleasant meal was had at the Chinese restaurant in our hotel, reasonably priced and delicious in a lovely setting. There was quite a palaver trying to organise Pandaw to pick up our luggage, but not us, as we wanted to visit Scott Market next morning (closed on Monday when we arrived). A very funny palaver though, three phone calls all with different spellings of the wharf our Pandaw would be at. We also received a tissue paper envelope under our door with very large writing " Please attaché your luague" inside we're two Pandaw luggage tags, we laughed and laughed.
Next morning checkout was smooth, and taxi to Scott Market easy, although traffic again diabolical. We were quite early so the market just opening up (watch out for the washing of the shop fronts !) I was on a mission to secure a pedicure, and found many cosmetic shops but couldn't quite make myself understood that I wanted someone else to apply the nail polish. Eventually, "foot spa" was offered and I was directed to the second floor where two lovely young women worked on my feet. I enjoyed some tea with lots of seeds in it, and got an excellent pedicure for 4000 kyats. Also bought some great sandals for 9400 kyats, and the first of many longyi, a beautiful cotton with silk embroidery in the Shan state style, very tribal. The young woman at the longyi shop had the most amazing blue eyes. When I gasped and exclaimed at her beautiful eyes, she grinned back and said "contacts" , how funny.
My husband helped two young girls who were struggling to open some huge heavy wooden doors, they were besides themselves, and giggled like crazy, again we would see this reaction many times over the next 19 days.
The most amazing thing about Burma was the people, so very friendly and helpful, and now prepared to talk about the political situation that they have endured for many years. Later in the trip I would be brought to tears by the powerful imagery evoked by conversations with our two guides on Pandaw.
Right now am at home and off work due to dysentery, my fault, don 't let that deter you from visiting this fantastic country.
My husband and I are mid to early 50's live on the Gold Coast in Australia, and love travelling. We both still work full time, so can only manage four weeks holiday each year, favourite destinations are, Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, Bali, and oddly enough Spain.
More on Pandaw later.
Caroline
Aug 20th, 2013 | 11:25 PM
#3
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Thanks Kathie.
Easy taxi from the market to Bo Ta Taung jetty where RV Indochina Pandaw lay waiting. Joy of joys ! Our luggage had arrived and was ensconced in cabin 319' our room for the next 14 nights. We also shared a fabulous top deck with 49 other passengers, there were 28 crew, a dining room where shuffle the seat became a game, a cinema room, and a small lounge area at the front of the main deck. Balconies all around the two decks with passenger cabins became another living area, where you could stop and chat (or not). This Pandaw can carry a maximum of 60 guests, and all cabins were occupied, some singly.
I was surprised to find out that of 51 guests, all but 3 were fellow Aussies. Having said that, some of the Aussies were born and raised elsewhere, and some had lived expat in SE Asia or the US for years. There was a Kiwi guy, a British woman, and a Romanian guy who is CFO for Pandaw and would be leaving us at day 5. All in all a well travelled and interesting bunch of people who got along just fine.
After lunch on board, an afternoon tour by coach (two) took in Shwedagon Pagoda and downtown colonial buildings with a walk for the people not challenged by wet slippery conditions. Shwedagon was treacherously slippery, barefoot on wet white marble, one guy hit the deck and six crewmen picked him up to check for damage. Fortunately he was okay, but it must have been a shock, and put the rest of us on guard. The pagoda is stunning, but I can't help thinking that if this amount of wealth had been put into education or health, then maybe Burma might have been better equipped to deal with challenging it's governance situation sooner. I do understand that making merit via the building of such sacred sites is entrenched firmly in the Buddhist belief, but my agnostic self has doubt in the benefit. Value diversity I say, and I will grow less doubtful as Burma reveals itself.
Easy taxi from the market to Bo Ta Taung jetty where RV Indochina Pandaw lay waiting. Joy of joys ! Our luggage had arrived and was ensconced in cabin 319' our room for the next 14 nights. We also shared a fabulous top deck with 49 other passengers, there were 28 crew, a dining room where shuffle the seat became a game, a cinema room, and a small lounge area at the front of the main deck. Balconies all around the two decks with passenger cabins became another living area, where you could stop and chat (or not). This Pandaw can carry a maximum of 60 guests, and all cabins were occupied, some singly.
I was surprised to find out that of 51 guests, all but 3 were fellow Aussies. Having said that, some of the Aussies were born and raised elsewhere, and some had lived expat in SE Asia or the US for years. There was a Kiwi guy, a British woman, and a Romanian guy who is CFO for Pandaw and would be leaving us at day 5. All in all a well travelled and interesting bunch of people who got along just fine.
After lunch on board, an afternoon tour by coach (two) took in Shwedagon Pagoda and downtown colonial buildings with a walk for the people not challenged by wet slippery conditions. Shwedagon was treacherously slippery, barefoot on wet white marble, one guy hit the deck and six crewmen picked him up to check for damage. Fortunately he was okay, but it must have been a shock, and put the rest of us on guard. The pagoda is stunning, but I can't help thinking that if this amount of wealth had been put into education or health, then maybe Burma might have been better equipped to deal with challenging it's governance situation sooner. I do understand that making merit via the building of such sacred sites is entrenched firmly in the Buddhist belief, but my agnostic self has doubt in the benefit. Value diversity I say, and I will grow less doubtful as Burma reveals itself.
Aug 21st, 2013 | 02:23 PM
#4
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Over the next four days we would rove around the delta region, stopping at cities and villages where Westerners are rarely seen. At one market town the locals were taking photos of the tourists ! I've never seen that before, very funny. One of our passengers was quite tall with long blonde hair, she attracted many followers. The local people looked out for us as well, when a trio of us decided to wander off in the back lanes of the town, word got back to the purser who followed us to ensure we didn't get lost.
In every town or village there was a sign in English and Burmese " Warmly Welcome and Take Care of Tourists". Sums it all up really, everywhere we got the warmest of welcomes, and felt very cared for.
The crew on Pandaw were especially attentive to protecting their guests, a few of the more frail older guests were assigned their own minder, who would be beside them every step. For walking trips, a sidecar would be rustled up, complete with crewman on the back seat holding an umbrella over head for sun protection. All the crew seemed to do double up duties, the Captain always escorted one older lady - she was tickled pink. Half a dozen crew accompanied each shore excursion, always one guy carrying a big bag marked with a red cross, we called him "doctor" which made him laugh hysterically.
The passengers ages ranged from early thirties to late eighties ( possibly older, I thought it rude to ask) with probably two thirds over 60. Eventually the group would divide into those more mobile, and the less mobile took easier shorter walks. In many towns local transport was arranged, sidecars were fun, a bicycle with attached seat where you sit beside the rider. One of our group was an ex footballer, man mountain, about six foot eight and maybe 180 kg. You could see the drivers cringe, and the other drivers laughing with the poor chosen one. That guy certainly earned his pay, however, the man mountain was a generous type, who I reckon would have tipped well. I'm petite and tried to choose the oldest driver.
Our two guides were excellent, very knowledgable and passionate about their country and always willing to go that extra step. At one small village near an archeological museum we had visited by coach, one lady asked if we could walk through the village. About 20 of us got off the coach and walked, and were even invited into a local home. We met three generations and the family pets, checked out the kitchen and even upstairs sleeping area. Can't imagine welcoming a bus load of tourists into my home, but that is the Burmese way, we were told it was an honour for that family.
In every town or village there was a sign in English and Burmese " Warmly Welcome and Take Care of Tourists". Sums it all up really, everywhere we got the warmest of welcomes, and felt very cared for.
The crew on Pandaw were especially attentive to protecting their guests, a few of the more frail older guests were assigned their own minder, who would be beside them every step. For walking trips, a sidecar would be rustled up, complete with crewman on the back seat holding an umbrella over head for sun protection. All the crew seemed to do double up duties, the Captain always escorted one older lady - she was tickled pink. Half a dozen crew accompanied each shore excursion, always one guy carrying a big bag marked with a red cross, we called him "doctor" which made him laugh hysterically.
The passengers ages ranged from early thirties to late eighties ( possibly older, I thought it rude to ask) with probably two thirds over 60. Eventually the group would divide into those more mobile, and the less mobile took easier shorter walks. In many towns local transport was arranged, sidecars were fun, a bicycle with attached seat where you sit beside the rider. One of our group was an ex footballer, man mountain, about six foot eight and maybe 180 kg. You could see the drivers cringe, and the other drivers laughing with the poor chosen one. That guy certainly earned his pay, however, the man mountain was a generous type, who I reckon would have tipped well. I'm petite and tried to choose the oldest driver.
Our two guides were excellent, very knowledgable and passionate about their country and always willing to go that extra step. At one small village near an archeological museum we had visited by coach, one lady asked if we could walk through the village. About 20 of us got off the coach and walked, and were even invited into a local home. We met three generations and the family pets, checked out the kitchen and even upstairs sleeping area. Can't imagine welcoming a bus load of tourists into my home, but that is the Burmese way, we were told it was an honour for that family.
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Aug 29th, 2013 | 01:20 PM
#8
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Okay, thanks for spurring me on !
Day 5 saw an early start around 6.30 as our boat slowed and circled past A Kaut Taung where villagers have carved hundreds of Buddha images into the riverside cliffs. Truly amazing site and very photogenic, some are restored, some not, but all would have involved hours and hours of patience and skill.
We were treated to an hilarious demonstration of "how to tie the longyi" on the boats sun deck. The presenter, one of our two guides Ko Terry, grabbed Thomas (a waiter on board who has a Physics degree) and so began an hour of slapstick comedy ! Terry is gay and famously whilst introducing us to the Buddhist faith at Shwedagon announced he wanted to come back as Angelina Jolie! They demonstrated correct tying for the men, then a shorter version for wading, then a real short version for playing football, then how to make a pocket for carrying your market purchases home. There was the elephant trunk to amuse small children, the flat pack to enable head carrying of larger goods, and so many others.This is just one example of the on board activities that Pandaw organises that give real insight into the daily existence and cultural background of the Burmese. There were many other interesting sessions, an introduction to the fruit and vegetables, cooking demos (tea leaf and ginger salad), we had a language lesson -My Pandaw Thindaw be mar de ? Means where's the Pandaw ship, as if you could miss a three storey behometh skulking at the rivers edge! Another session was about the current political situation and brought me to tears, more later.
In Magwe we had trishaws to take us to the hilltop pagoda, and again climbed many steps of a passage way lined with shops selling offerings and souvenirs. At the top magnificent Irrawaddy views, although cloud cover scotched any sunset. Later that evening I would wander the streets alone, walking by motorbike lights as there is no street lighting due to limited electricity supply. Three separate groups stopped to ask if they could help me or just to have a chat. This happened many times throughout the trip, with people genuinely wanting to help or just practice their English language skills. Initially I waited for the hook, you know, the brothers or cousins shop, as happens in most other SE Asian countries, but Burma is not like that yet.
In Salay we wandered through the town admiring crumbling colonial buildings gradually succumbing to the tropical heat and plant growth. Two teenaged girls sidled up to me and one grabbed my hand in an attempt to handshake, all wrong, but brave for her. They ran off giggling "I shook the foreigners hand" priceless.
Back home we get the question "what was the highlight" . For me it is undoubtedly the people, whilst we saw magnificent temples and monasteries, charming colonial buildings and surreal landscapes, but the friendly enchanting humans are so happy with so little.
Day 5 saw an early start around 6.30 as our boat slowed and circled past A Kaut Taung where villagers have carved hundreds of Buddha images into the riverside cliffs. Truly amazing site and very photogenic, some are restored, some not, but all would have involved hours and hours of patience and skill.
We were treated to an hilarious demonstration of "how to tie the longyi" on the boats sun deck. The presenter, one of our two guides Ko Terry, grabbed Thomas (a waiter on board who has a Physics degree) and so began an hour of slapstick comedy ! Terry is gay and famously whilst introducing us to the Buddhist faith at Shwedagon announced he wanted to come back as Angelina Jolie! They demonstrated correct tying for the men, then a shorter version for wading, then a real short version for playing football, then how to make a pocket for carrying your market purchases home. There was the elephant trunk to amuse small children, the flat pack to enable head carrying of larger goods, and so many others.This is just one example of the on board activities that Pandaw organises that give real insight into the daily existence and cultural background of the Burmese. There were many other interesting sessions, an introduction to the fruit and vegetables, cooking demos (tea leaf and ginger salad), we had a language lesson -My Pandaw Thindaw be mar de ? Means where's the Pandaw ship, as if you could miss a three storey behometh skulking at the rivers edge! Another session was about the current political situation and brought me to tears, more later.
In Magwe we had trishaws to take us to the hilltop pagoda, and again climbed many steps of a passage way lined with shops selling offerings and souvenirs. At the top magnificent Irrawaddy views, although cloud cover scotched any sunset. Later that evening I would wander the streets alone, walking by motorbike lights as there is no street lighting due to limited electricity supply. Three separate groups stopped to ask if they could help me or just to have a chat. This happened many times throughout the trip, with people genuinely wanting to help or just practice their English language skills. Initially I waited for the hook, you know, the brothers or cousins shop, as happens in most other SE Asian countries, but Burma is not like that yet.
In Salay we wandered through the town admiring crumbling colonial buildings gradually succumbing to the tropical heat and plant growth. Two teenaged girls sidled up to me and one grabbed my hand in an attempt to handshake, all wrong, but brave for her. They ran off giggling "I shook the foreigners hand" priceless.
Back home we get the question "what was the highlight" . For me it is undoubtedly the people, whilst we saw magnificent temples and monasteries, charming colonial buildings and surreal landscapes, but the friendly enchanting humans are so happy with so little.
Aug 29th, 2013 | 02:51 PM
#10
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Joined: Jul 2013
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I believe this 14 night cruise happens every second year when the boat has to dry dock in Yangon to retain it's government license. Technically it goes north, Yangon to Mandalay. The boat we had was Indochina Pandaw, which is being chartered by Uniworld for the coming season. In Mandalay we were told that it would be spruced up and rebadged, with all the crew staying to do the work. Seems bizarre that waiters and boatmen will now be picking up paintbrushes.
I thought the boat was in fine condition, although on the ship tour, the purser specifically thanked us all for not complaining! So, they must get complaints from some passengers.
The cabins are roomy enough to stow clothing and suitcases, it's a tight fit in the shower, but hot water was plentiful. If I had any gripe, it was that lighting was not good for applying makeup. Rather than present as a clown, I simply went without.
The food was plentiful and mostly very good. Breakfast was buffet style with the chef doing eggs any way you wanted, usually an Asian option of noodle soup or congee, cereals, toast, pastries and fresh fruit. They have an on board bakery, so always fresh bread and pastries.
Lunch consisted of a choice of three mains, one Asian, one western and one vegetarian, always with buffet style selection of salads and vegetable dishes and a soup. Dinner was similar.
I thought the Asian fare was mostly the best choice, when I did order a western dish (roast lamb, couldn't help myself) there was no gravy, sacrilege!
Each evening there was a cocktail of the day, with a variety of snacks also offered. These were very popular and well attended by all.
I thought the boat was in fine condition, although on the ship tour, the purser specifically thanked us all for not complaining! So, they must get complaints from some passengers.
The cabins are roomy enough to stow clothing and suitcases, it's a tight fit in the shower, but hot water was plentiful. If I had any gripe, it was that lighting was not good for applying makeup. Rather than present as a clown, I simply went without.
The food was plentiful and mostly very good. Breakfast was buffet style with the chef doing eggs any way you wanted, usually an Asian option of noodle soup or congee, cereals, toast, pastries and fresh fruit. They have an on board bakery, so always fresh bread and pastries.
Lunch consisted of a choice of three mains, one Asian, one western and one vegetarian, always with buffet style selection of salads and vegetable dishes and a soup. Dinner was similar.
I thought the Asian fare was mostly the best choice, when I did order a western dish (roast lamb, couldn't help myself) there was no gravy, sacrilege!
Each evening there was a cocktail of the day, with a variety of snacks also offered. These were very popular and well attended by all.
Aug 29th, 2013 | 05:55 PM
#11
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,488
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Aargh, Internet crashed and I just lost the wittiest funniest dialogue so far ( you'll have to take my word for it). It's a public holiday here, Gold Coast show day, sunny, about 24 C and I've longyied up to get in the mood. Great that our Internet service provider has decided to maintain some infrastructure right now!
I realise there are probably many more readers than responders, but please, ask questions, make comments, a little encouragement goes a long way !
The other passengers are fantastic fun. There's a group of 13 escorted by a guide, all from Adelaide. I call them the noble Caledonians ( RIP Dogster who had me in fits of laughter in the wee small hours so many times). The noble Adelaideians are without exception interesting and loquacious, there is no insularity, they mingle with the best.
It's comforting to have so many medicos, along with nurses, and a pharmacist who kindly checks out the drugs I have been given at the Pandaw sponsored clinic to battle a head cold. It's paracetamol and antihistamines, amazing what body/sign language can convey.
We have two architects, one of whom needs to know the dimensions of every building down to the last brick and tile, and three lawyers who don't argue at all !
At the bar, my husband makes a comment about the stern. The man standing next to me comments that it can also be called aft, I ask if he knows about boats, and he replies, "not really, I work for the Maritime Safety Authority". Another guest works for a shipping company, and also claims to know nothing about boats, he's in HR so fair enough I guess.
There's a gorgeous lady who was Miss Australia 1977, she's smart and still very beautiful with a background in the travel industry.
One of the joys of Pandaw is meeting and engaging with the other guests. You will invariably find like-minded people who relish every aspect of the adventure.
I realise there are probably many more readers than responders, but please, ask questions, make comments, a little encouragement goes a long way !
The other passengers are fantastic fun. There's a group of 13 escorted by a guide, all from Adelaide. I call them the noble Caledonians ( RIP Dogster who had me in fits of laughter in the wee small hours so many times). The noble Adelaideians are without exception interesting and loquacious, there is no insularity, they mingle with the best.
It's comforting to have so many medicos, along with nurses, and a pharmacist who kindly checks out the drugs I have been given at the Pandaw sponsored clinic to battle a head cold. It's paracetamol and antihistamines, amazing what body/sign language can convey.
We have two architects, one of whom needs to know the dimensions of every building down to the last brick and tile, and three lawyers who don't argue at all !
At the bar, my husband makes a comment about the stern. The man standing next to me comments that it can also be called aft, I ask if he knows about boats, and he replies, "not really, I work for the Maritime Safety Authority". Another guest works for a shipping company, and also claims to know nothing about boats, he's in HR so fair enough I guess.
There's a gorgeous lady who was Miss Australia 1977, she's smart and still very beautiful with a background in the travel industry.
One of the joys of Pandaw is meeting and engaging with the other guests. You will invariably find like-minded people who relish every aspect of the adventure.
Aug 29th, 2013 | 06:33 PM
#12
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
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Sounds great. I have twice been on the verge of booking a Pandaw cruise, even corresponded with the owner, Paul Strachan (now retired). I was interested in the Chidwin cruise, and this is one that would interest me. Just the Yangon-Mandaly route doesn't interest me much.
I'm sure there have been many occasions to remember dogster!
I'm sure there have been many occasions to remember dogster!
Aug 29th, 2013 | 07:00 PM
#13
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Joined: Jul 2013
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I'm also interested in the Chindwin River, really the only other Pandaw trip we could take without repeating. I hope they return to Borneo, or another location that suits this type of travelling, I'm a fan of Pandaw, can't speak highly enough of the experience.
Cruising the backwaters of Kerala is under investigation for me, hope to do that in Oct 2014.
Cruising the backwaters of Kerala is under investigation for me, hope to do that in Oct 2014.
