ek: you can forget about Amex everywhere in Myanmar. Full stop.

A smart punter would book three single cabins, lower deck for much the same money. I don't know which cruise you're on [dates] but if it ain't full [and the empty ones are by far the best] you can upgrade easy on the boat. Cost - one girlish smile. Failing that, take a tip from BellaBluebell and burst into tears.

Is it expensive? Maybe.
What is your alternative? None.
So it's neither expensive nor cheap.
It is what it is.

You can screw around into infinity trying to save a dollar - but, in Myanmar, you won't really succeed. Not thru an agency or a guide - and not eight months in advance.

BTW - check out the Strand Hotel - easily the best in Yangon. Don't be freaked out at the first prices you see. Explore the website and look for promotions.

www.ghmhotels.com

"ek: you can forget about Amex everywhere in Myanmar. Full stop. " When I was there you could forget about all credit cards, full stop. Except for the Strand Hotel, if you were staying there. Has the situation changed? (It was the result of sanctions, which as far as I know haven't been lifted.) Take cash dollars to exchange. My guide exchanged for me in the Yangon market.

Dogster, sorry I missed your earlier post. Where are you anyway?

Dog and Thursday: I know I can't use the credit cards inside Burma. But I want to use them to book the Pandaw trip and I will bring cash money for inside the country. Do I have any hope of a travel agency outside Burma being willing to book my Pandaw with Amex? I wrote to Pandaw and asked them if they knew a way to do this and I will report back when I hear anything.

What an amazing idea to book 3 single cabins!!!!! Would tht give us more room to spread out, or rather would it give my friends more room?

I do remember Dogster (I think it was Dogster, anyway) saying that it was more fun downstairs closer to the crew. But remember I am not a guy..

But let's discuss this: How much "better" are the upper deck cabins? My friends will be drilling me about this, that is for certain! Since I am not an experienced boat/ship person (see I am not even sure which word is correct) I need lots of help selecting a cabin. So far there seem to be many available on the March, 2010 cruise. I know I should try to be towards the front of the boat, but what else? It might be pretty hot in March--would it be cooler on the top deck? When I have more time I can let you know the numbers of the cabins available...but I wanted to get this post written asap! (After all, there is only about a year to go(!!) )

Off to practice my smile!!!

Eks,

I was able to use my credit cards, Visa & MC, at quite a few places in Myanmar. From memory the Strand hotel, La Planteur restaurant, Rupar Madalar hotel, restaurants at the Traders hotel Yangon, a few high end shops in Yangon and one nice lacquerware shop in Bagan. This was over 2 years ago so the information is not current and I would definitely take enough cash with me. The only way you can use your AMEX for your Myanmar trip is to pay or make arrangement to pay your travel agent or the Pandaw in Bangkok. Most of these guys have offices in Bangkok and will require you to transfer payment to banks here.

I'm not a big fan of prolonged river cruises and I have never been on the Pandaw only the RTM for lunch but for $8,000 with two nights in a Yangon hotel and 12 nights on the Pandaw that's pretty expensive for Myanmar IMO. I don't like group tours either especially with their shopping stops which they advertised as "visit to a lacquerware school”, “small rural village specialises in pot making” and “We stop to see tapestry making and other traditional crafts.” etc.. For much less money I could stay at the best hotels in the best rooms or suites in Bagan, Mandalay and Inle and eat at the best restaurants tour at my own pace, have a private guide, go ballooning, shopping and still have money left over. However that's just me and there are many people who enjoy cruises.

No matter which option you chooses you will have a great time in Myanmar!

Hanuman: I absolutely agree with much of what you write. I read such glowing reviews of the Pandaw cruise and the fact that my friends are interested really got me going. Now you have given me some pause. But remember, it is $4800 for a single (me) on the upper deck. That includes two nights in Rangoon--one before the cruise and one after.

On my first trip to Burma, we were told (travelers' hearsay) to bring in one bottle of Johnny Walker Black and a carton of 555s. We exchanged these with the custom's guy and had almost enough kyat for the entire week! And believe it or not, I stayed at the Strand!

Eks,

I think the Black labels and foreign cigarettes are now quite easy to obtain in Myanmar. Most of the stuff comes across the border from Thailand so I'm not sure if they still have such high values in Myanmar.

I guess for a single traveller on the Pandaw it might be more cost effective and you will get a chance to meet other travellers which could be good or bad depending on your luck. I've met some very nice people on a Nile cruise making the trip one of the best ever but it could had been the other way as well.

Let me see for 14 nights at $4,800 that comes to $343 per night for room(cabin) and full board plus group tours. If you were to do it yourself you can get the Strand and other top Yangon hotels, the Auruem in Bagan and the Inle Princess for around $200 - 250 a night with breakfast and airport transfer. Mandalay will be cheaper if you want to go there. You can use the savings for the domestic flights which are quite inexpensive, lunch and dinner, a guide and taxi fare(or hired car or hire a taxi for the day - around $30) plus the fact that you can invite a friend along to share your hotel rooms and if they contribute you can save a lot more money.

If you want to experience a bit of cruising or river life don't the RTM and the Pandaw offer 2 or 3 nights cruises from Bagan to Mandalay? You can also catch a ferry that runs non stop between the two town and I think the trip takes around 8 hours.

One other advice. When booking with a travel agency ask for the hotel and flight bookings only by telling them that you want to do your own thing for touring. Once they quote that to you then ask for how much they will charge for the guides and car services. I find that if you don't ask for a separate quote the prices will be very high!

Forgot to mention this rather "unique" new way of seeing Myanmar - http://www.easternsafaris.com/balloons_safaris.html

So we're talking March 2010? This post is going to be longer than your last trip report - and that's even before you begin. I think I'll pull back. I can't compete. I'll come back in a year.

But bless you, Hanumnan, but why are you trying to talk eks out of this?

You had lunch one day on a river cruiser. I've spent 42 days all up cruising Burma with Pandaw. I can only bow to your superior experience. Why do you assume that eks and her pals will be bunged on a horrid group tour? What do you know about the dynamics of daily Pandaw activities? The vast majority of my time on the Pandaw, when I wanted it, I had my own minder and wandered where I chose. The choice is entitely up to eks and her pals. With the greatest respect and a reassuring cuddle, I think, Hanuman, that you are letting your own attitudes colour your advice. This ain't a river cruise thru Europe - different dynamic. It ain't the Orient Express Road To Mandalay. Different style totally. It ain't a Carnival Cruise to the Bahamas or a cruise down the Nile.

This paragraph: 'I don't like group tours either especially with their shopping stops which they advertised as "visit to a lacquerware school”, “small rural village specialises in pot making” and “We stop to see tapestry making and other traditional crafts.” etc..' shows me that you are harboring some incorrect assumptions. These are clouding your judgement. Shopping stops? Apart from the lacquerware place in Bagan there aren't any. Full stop.

You know, there is actually a philosophy behind Pandaw. Google Paul Strachan, the founder. Jump into the website and look at the work the company has been doing for Cyclone victims. Check his bona fides, the books he's written, the years he spent in Burma.

Even with your financial breakdown, eks will be spending much the same money. She has a choice between $4,800 and $4,100. I've already given my advice on that. Yup, eks can do it herself, and drag her two companions around with her - yup, she might save.. ooooh, $200? With maximum effort, maximum grief, maximum hassle, maximum chance for things to stuff up - and she still ain't gonna get to 3/4 of the places on the Pandaw tour. What your well-meaning advice will end up doing is reduce the number of places eks and her pals will see - and substituting hours of unncessary travel instead. All to 'save' a few hundred bucks.

Hanuman, eks travelling companions are in their Seventies. I reckon THAT is the starting point of all discussion here.

Here's my prediction. Eks will spend the next ten months trying out every known variation on a theme. She'll reduce her guide and travel agent of choice to a gibbering wreck. Possibly me, too. lol lol lol. At the end of it she will do exactly what she was going to do in the first place. 3 days Yangon, 14 days cruise and 3 days Inle.

I could go on - but I guess I've made my point. Or not. Forgive my direct way of speaking.

Hanuman; you know I have the greatest respect for you and your contributions, you also know that we Australian Dogs have a rather blunt way of calling a spade a shovel. So just imagine I'm smiling when I saying all the above, NOT snarling. O.K.?

eks: you have a choice. Believe who you like. You can knock this off in three E-mails - or you can faff around for a year.
I'll look in and observe your progress. When you make up your mind, gimme a shout and I'll tell you how to do it easily. If you want to do it the hard way - please do. Someone else can help you.

Dogster,

Likewise I have the highest respect for you and all the dingos in Australia as well but I'm not one who enjoy cruises and I think it doesn't hurt Eks to explore or know about other possibilities. I for one I'm thinking seriously about the balloon safari for this coming December!

Thanks Hanuman, for taking my comments the way I'd hoped.

Dogster,

Take a look at this picture: http://khun-pook.smugmug.com/gallery...34868990_AwJG8

The lady on the left was 88 when that was taken, the lady behind her was 82 and we had just gotten off the balloon in Bagan. They all had a great time so I don't think any 70 years old need to worry too much.

lol Hanumnan - it's not a balloon ride I'm talking about. [Everybody speaks very highly of this BTW - I think you should definately do it] What I'm referring to is three weeks of shlep around Burma. There's just the weeniest difference.

At just under 60 myself, I certainly don't think of 'Seventies' as remotely geriatric, but I am aware that we don't bounce back quite so fast. As you know, Burma is so very interesting - I'd love eks and her pals not to have to see it through a cloud of dust and a veil of exhaustion.

You guys BOTH need to come to Burma with us! You both make excellent points and I know that I will have a top-notch great time however I do this. I am going to do the balloon ride; I had already mentioned this to my friends. How can you NOT do this once you've seen the photos taken from the balloon over Bagan? ( I hope we do not have another crash landing like the one I had in Kenya!)

I doubt if I would do the longer cruise on my own. But I am also not sure if my friends would sign on to the Ekscrunchy Burma land tour. On two previous trips, a near-mutiny has only narrowly been averted after the announcement of the early morning wake-up call. Grumbles have been heard about the fast pace. (Certain parties have even broached the topic of setting out as late as 8am for a morning game drive in Africa!) I don't even want to imagine breaking the news that breakfast will be at 7am because we must get out to catch the good light/flight/calm before the tourist hordes descend. (Aren't there very early morning flights in Burma?)

I think that the situation would be very different if this were to be a solo venture. I hope you both will remain right here posted to your screens as the questions pour forth!

On a bright note: I just heard from the Pandaw US representative at Jensen World Travel.
They will accept AMEX (!!) for the Pandaw portion of the trip!!


Moving onto Yangon for a minute, do you think I should plan 3 nights up front before the cruise? (Remember, I want to do some shopping and swimming). The Pandaw includes a night before and a night after--I have to find out about their hotel. On their website they list the Strand for a ridiculous price: $492 single and $246 for sharing; I imagine the sharing means that price for each half of a couple..??

Hanuman: This is a great tip about asking the local agency to price the hotels and flights separately and LATER ask for the guide/driver pricing. Do you live in Bangkok? (You know where this line of thought is going!)

A million thanks for all the help so far!!

Eks,

Yes I'm a local but I was born in the USA and educated in England and the US.

I would stay in Yangon at the end of the trip if you're interested in shopping but to be honest most of the stuff there were not that interesting perhaps because I'm a Thai and there are a lot of similarities with our local products. The best purchases were the lacquerwares in Bagan but I forgot the shop/factory name of the place.

The Strand currently have specials for as low as $200 a night for 2 people with breakfast. When we were there we paid $300 a night for 3 people with an extra bed and breakfast for a deluxe suite. You can save over $200 a night if you book it yourself but that's pennies to the Dogster whose real name is James Packer.

Here's a cut and paste from the Strand's website:
RATES:

Plan your program to stay a minimum of 2 nights at The Strand and you will be rewarded.

1 October 2007 - 31 March 2008 & 1 October 2008 TO 31 March 2009
(Applicable for 2 nights minimum stay) US$ 220 ++ per night for a Superior Suite, including Breakfast
US$ 250 ++ per night for a Deluxe Suite, including Breakfast


1 pril 2008 - 30 September 2008
(Applicable for 2 nights minimum stay) US$ 165 ++ per night for a Superior Suite, including Breakfast
US$ 188 ++ per night for a Deluxe Suite, including Breakfast

(Please note that all room rates are subject to 10% service charge and 10% government tax)

Thanks, Hanuman..I will certainly try to ferret out the best deal for the hotels. Right now I am leaning toward either the Savoy or the Governor's Residence because of the lack of the pool at the Strand.

Can we discuss the best cabins on the ship, please? Difference between top and lower deck?
better to be in the front, right? (You can see that I have virtually no experience with cruising.)

There is no way that I want to board a big tour bus and be schlepped around...we can discuss this later, but I will find some way of arranging a private person to guide us if the dreaded bus materializes.

eks, when I was researching dong a Pandaw cruise, I had some correspondence with Paul Strachan who assured me that we did not have to take the Pandaw's shore excursions. We could make arrangements on our own. In fact, I seem to remember Dogster mentioning this. As you know, I'm no fan of group tours!

Kathie I am VERY glad to read that! As I said, there is just no way that I am getting on a big bus. In Burma of all places. Once I get the bookings done, I will gather up the names of guides for Bagan and a couple of the other stops. I will be discussing with my friends tomorrow so be prepared for a parade of questions.

This is the Pandaw US rep who will take Amex payments; I don't suppose anyone has used them here..(??)

http://www.jensenworldtravel.com/scr...199&Cat_ID=246

Eks,

Re Cabin choice on the Pandaw.


Until the dogster reply and as you know I've not been on the Pandaw, I would say the higher the better and go for a cabin located around the middle of the ship for the following reasons:

1/. Better view from the top deck.
2/. Less noises around the mid ship and more privacy IMO - from people walking to the observation lounge, embarking disembarking and the general river noises.
3/. Like most river cruises you will probably spend more than 50% of the time at anchor or docked somewhere and thus more breeze on the top deck especially while you're sitting on the rattan chair smoking a good Cuban cigar and sipping aperitifs perhaps having a foot massage at the same time.

I've said all I have to say on this matter.

Thanks guys! We are about to book the 14-day cruise. I can scarcely believe it! My friends are concerned with getting the most quiet double cabin because she is worried about sleeping. (They do not want 2 swingle cabins.) From what Hanuman writes, I should steer them toward one of the mid-upper deck cabins (I want to be in front, I think; I am not too fussy about noise) .

Dogster: Why are you cranky today. I NEED your continuing help!

Kathie: I would like to consult Paul S. But do not find an e-mail for him (I imagine he does have a few other things to do apart from advising people on the best cabins!); do you happen to have a direct e-mail?

Also, my friends are open to the Inle Lake visit and we will do this after the cruise ends. Flying from Yangon. I will ask more on the Inle thread..(hotel, etc)