On the Road in Beautiful Sri Lanka
Mar 20th, 2015, 03:38 PM
#61
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To Ella
From Kandapola it was a two to three hour journey to Ella winding through Tea Country. Along the way we stopped at Gregory Lake, on the southern edge of Nuwara Eliya, and Seetha Amman Temple in Sita Eliya. At Gregory Lake, we went for a nice mid-morning cruise, enjoying the surrounding scenery of European-style homes and mountains while taking in the cool breeze coming off the waters. From here we continued onwards to Seetha Amman Temple, believed to be the site of the Hindu monkey god Hanuman's landing on Sri Lanka when he came over from India to rescue Sita. At the site are a couple of indentations on a rocky outcrop that locals claim to be Hanuman's footprints; it is at this site that the temple was built in his honor. The temple seemed to be off the beaten tourist circuit as we were the only visitors there other than local worshippers. We spent some time enjoying the fine wooden carvings and were also able to witness a mini-puja ceremony taking place when we were there.
In and Around Ella
Ella is somewhat known among the hiker and backpacker circuits. The area is home to many kilometers of hiking trails that snake across hillsides covered with tea plantations, mountain peaks that offer incredible vistas, and undiscovered caves.
Highlights of our visit to Ella include a climb up Little Adam's Peak and to Rawana Ella Cave. The trail up Little Adam's Peak begins just outside of the village's main drag. At the start of the trail we were treated to endless vistas of tea fields and women hard at work. Once we got to the base of the peak, we walked along a dirt path leading up to the summit. At the top of the peak are beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and very much reminded me of what we saw in some of the lower reaches of the Alps in France and Switzerland. The entire journey took about 45 minutes, and only because we were taking our time and plucking tea buds as we went along (we gave the buds to a tea plucker who was passing by, who inspected our work, smiled, and placed it into her basket). We also encountered very few tourists along the way, perhaps a half a dozen along the way and one couple up at the summit.
The other trek we did was to nearby Rawana Sita Cave, believed to be the site where the Sri Lankan king, Rawana, held Sita captive according to the Ramayana. The way up mostly involved steps until we got close to the entrance of the cave, where we had to scramble up some boulders. The opening of the cave itself is fairly large, and it is here that we concluded our visit. Inside the cave there appeared to be a small opening but not one that it seemed we could have crawled through without a proper guide and equipment. There are some who believed that the cave contains a system of tunnels that connect all the way to Seetha Amman Temple just outside of Nuwara Eliya, but that will have to remain a mystery to us.
Closeby to Rawana Ella Cave are Rawana Ella Falls, on the road linking Ella to the southern coast. Rawana Ella Falls consists of a series of cataracts complete with pools of water that attract visitor looking for a refreshing dip. While we didn't swim, we did dip our toes in the water for a bit and found it very cool and relaxing.
The Secret Ella
Our home base in Ella was a boutique hotel called the Secret Ella. Opened only four months ago to tourists, it was converted from a tea planters' bungalow. The hotel contains five rooms around an interior courtyard. The hotel overlooks approximately 14 acres of tea fields. It is managed by the same folks that run 98 Acres Resort, which was about a 5 minute tuk tuk ride away.
The rooms at the Secret Ella were very spacious, came with very comfortable king-size beds, a sitting area, and spacious bathrooms with rain shower and nice, large soaking tubs.
The atmosphere at the Secret Ella was incredible and the service from the staff matched the quality of the property. Each room is assigned with a personal butler, who not only took our orders and served us breakfast and dinner, but accompanied us on nearby walks.
While the hotel itself did not have a pool, guests were welcome to use the nice-sized pool at 98 Acres Resort. There was a tuk tuk shuttle service that took guests to their sister property, at no charge.
We really enjoyed our stay here and highly recommend it to those who are considering a visit to the area.
From Ella it was a three-hour journey by car to our final stop on this trip, Yala National Park. More to come...
From Kandapola it was a two to three hour journey to Ella winding through Tea Country. Along the way we stopped at Gregory Lake, on the southern edge of Nuwara Eliya, and Seetha Amman Temple in Sita Eliya. At Gregory Lake, we went for a nice mid-morning cruise, enjoying the surrounding scenery of European-style homes and mountains while taking in the cool breeze coming off the waters. From here we continued onwards to Seetha Amman Temple, believed to be the site of the Hindu monkey god Hanuman's landing on Sri Lanka when he came over from India to rescue Sita. At the site are a couple of indentations on a rocky outcrop that locals claim to be Hanuman's footprints; it is at this site that the temple was built in his honor. The temple seemed to be off the beaten tourist circuit as we were the only visitors there other than local worshippers. We spent some time enjoying the fine wooden carvings and were also able to witness a mini-puja ceremony taking place when we were there.
In and Around Ella
Ella is somewhat known among the hiker and backpacker circuits. The area is home to many kilometers of hiking trails that snake across hillsides covered with tea plantations, mountain peaks that offer incredible vistas, and undiscovered caves.
Highlights of our visit to Ella include a climb up Little Adam's Peak and to Rawana Ella Cave. The trail up Little Adam's Peak begins just outside of the village's main drag. At the start of the trail we were treated to endless vistas of tea fields and women hard at work. Once we got to the base of the peak, we walked along a dirt path leading up to the summit. At the top of the peak are beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and very much reminded me of what we saw in some of the lower reaches of the Alps in France and Switzerland. The entire journey took about 45 minutes, and only because we were taking our time and plucking tea buds as we went along (we gave the buds to a tea plucker who was passing by, who inspected our work, smiled, and placed it into her basket). We also encountered very few tourists along the way, perhaps a half a dozen along the way and one couple up at the summit.
The other trek we did was to nearby Rawana Sita Cave, believed to be the site where the Sri Lankan king, Rawana, held Sita captive according to the Ramayana. The way up mostly involved steps until we got close to the entrance of the cave, where we had to scramble up some boulders. The opening of the cave itself is fairly large, and it is here that we concluded our visit. Inside the cave there appeared to be a small opening but not one that it seemed we could have crawled through without a proper guide and equipment. There are some who believed that the cave contains a system of tunnels that connect all the way to Seetha Amman Temple just outside of Nuwara Eliya, but that will have to remain a mystery to us.
Closeby to Rawana Ella Cave are Rawana Ella Falls, on the road linking Ella to the southern coast. Rawana Ella Falls consists of a series of cataracts complete with pools of water that attract visitor looking for a refreshing dip. While we didn't swim, we did dip our toes in the water for a bit and found it very cool and relaxing.
The Secret Ella
Our home base in Ella was a boutique hotel called the Secret Ella. Opened only four months ago to tourists, it was converted from a tea planters' bungalow. The hotel contains five rooms around an interior courtyard. The hotel overlooks approximately 14 acres of tea fields. It is managed by the same folks that run 98 Acres Resort, which was about a 5 minute tuk tuk ride away.
The rooms at the Secret Ella were very spacious, came with very comfortable king-size beds, a sitting area, and spacious bathrooms with rain shower and nice, large soaking tubs.
The atmosphere at the Secret Ella was incredible and the service from the staff matched the quality of the property. Each room is assigned with a personal butler, who not only took our orders and served us breakfast and dinner, but accompanied us on nearby walks.
While the hotel itself did not have a pool, guests were welcome to use the nice-sized pool at 98 Acres Resort. There was a tuk tuk shuttle service that took guests to their sister property, at no charge.
We really enjoyed our stay here and highly recommend it to those who are considering a visit to the area.
From Ella it was a three-hour journey by car to our final stop on this trip, Yala National Park. More to come...
Mar 21st, 2015, 01:20 AM
#62
we stopped off in Ella for a coffee on our way from NE to Yala and I immediately thought what a good base it would make - sounds like I was right.
putting the Secret Ella on my list of places we might like to stay should we return to Sri Lanka.
putting the Secret Ella on my list of places we might like to stay should we return to Sri Lanka.
Mar 21st, 2015, 03:37 AM
#63
And still loving this. I really have appreciated your personal connections with your visits to the different temples -- you've been able to give me some inkling of the spirituality of place.
Saving this for future planning!
Saving this for future planning!
Mar 21st, 2015, 04:28 PM
#64
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Glad to know that you continue to find my report enjoyable or useful.
Yala National Park
Yala National Park is a popular stop on the Sri Lanka tourist circuit. Located on the southeastern coast, the park is famous for its concentration of leopards. It is believed to be one of the few locations outside of Africa where visitors have a decent chance of spotting the elusive big cat.
Having never been on a safari before we were interested in an opportunity to see animals in the wild. Even though we knew the concentration of animals wouldn't match those found in Africa, being able to do it at a fraction of the cost was very appealing.
From your accounts we were aware of the questionable practices engaged by local drivers in search of the big animals. While we were eager to spot leopards we did not want to partake in the bad behaviors of "trapping" animals. We made this very clear to our driver, who we hired for three safaris, one in the afternoon and two in the mornings.
We set out on our very first safari on the afternoon of our arrival at Yala. We were filled with much hope and anticipation for our first outing as it was an experience we never partook in before. During our 3.5 hour outing we saw a variety of fauna including elephants, water buffaloes, boar, peacocks, jungle fowl, and several species of birds. The highlight of our visit was an encounter with a family of five elephants. We spent about half an hour watching the elephants emerge from the bushes and playing amongst themselves. During most of the encounter it was our vehicle and one other. At the very end a couple of other ones approached, and we saw one of the vehicles try to maneuver so that its passengers could get a good view. It was at this point that we asked our driver to move on.
The highlight of our first morning safari were a couple of peacocks that unfurled themselves in splendid beauty. It was fun to watch the two interact with one another. At times it seemed they were performing an elaborate dance number. It was also on this visit that our driver attempted to join a caravan of other vehicles in search of a leopard after news of it's spotting from another driver. As we approached the site we politely asked our driver to turn around, a request he didn't seem to understand or want to follow. It was only after a few very stern follow up attempts when we clearly got the picture that we wouldn't have it. Even though we were still a bit away we saw at least a dozen vehicles up ahead, perhaps more. "This cannot be good, not for the leopard or any other animal in the area" I thought to myself. "Why is there not more regulation and restrictions against this practice?" Now as I mentioned I have not had the opportunity to visit Africa yet so I don't know if this is more commonplace but I just knew I didn't want anything to do with it.
In all we went on three safari outings. Each time the experience was different and we were able to see things that we didn't on other occasions. We were glad that we were able to go out more than once.
In addition to the safaris, we also partook in an afternoon nature walk around the hotel grounds and it's surrounds thanks to the suggestion of Ann (thank you, Ann). The two hour outing was a delight. We enjoyed having been able to ramble about in the wild on the lookout of various animals including buffalo, a crocodile sunning on a rock by the lake, and a few species of birds. Our guide was very knowledgeable of the habitat and were able to point out things to us that we would not have noticed. We walked around the lake on the hotel's property and along the sandy beach fronting the Indian Ocean.
Originally we were not sure if three nights at Yala were not enough or too much, but it was just right for us. The three nights allowed us to experience multiple safari outings, a nature walk, and some time to enjoy our hotel grounds.
Cinnamon Wild
The Cinnamon Wild is the closest hotel to the entrance to Yala National Park. The hotel consists of about 100 or so individual cabanas set in a lush bush setting. The cabanas are spacious and well appointed. The king size poster beds come with mosquito netting. The bathrooms were not large but very functional. We enjoyed our rooms a lot as well as the grounds that the property sits on.
The service from the staff is hit or miss, depending on who you encountered. Take, for example, our request for wake-up calls. On the first evening, we probably spent a good 5 minutes explaining why we wanted a 4am call. The agent we worked with could not understand that it took us a bit longer to get ready and that I had a couple of work-related items to attend to before heading out the door. He kept on insisting that 4am was too early for a 5:30 safari. And sure enough we did not get our wake-up call the next morning until 5am, which caused us to scramble more than I would have liked as well as delayed our safari departure by 45 minutes. The next morning was a completely different experience as the front desk agent we talked to wrote our wake-up request time in his log, signed his name, and asked us to do the same.
Given that the hotel is in a remote location our only dining options were at the one restaurant and one bar located on the property. Meals are served buffet style. While the breakfasts were adequate the lunches and dinners didn't offer much in terms of choice. The items served were almost identical between lunch and dinner and each night we had dinner there. We had a couple of lunches at the bar and those were better.
With Yala our 16 night journey across Sri Lanka came to a close. We covered a lot of ground during a short amount of time and did so much more than we anticipated.
I have to run now but will conclude my report with some final observations and thoughts as well as our experience with BSL.
Yala National Park
Yala National Park is a popular stop on the Sri Lanka tourist circuit. Located on the southeastern coast, the park is famous for its concentration of leopards. It is believed to be one of the few locations outside of Africa where visitors have a decent chance of spotting the elusive big cat.
Having never been on a safari before we were interested in an opportunity to see animals in the wild. Even though we knew the concentration of animals wouldn't match those found in Africa, being able to do it at a fraction of the cost was very appealing.
From your accounts we were aware of the questionable practices engaged by local drivers in search of the big animals. While we were eager to spot leopards we did not want to partake in the bad behaviors of "trapping" animals. We made this very clear to our driver, who we hired for three safaris, one in the afternoon and two in the mornings.
We set out on our very first safari on the afternoon of our arrival at Yala. We were filled with much hope and anticipation for our first outing as it was an experience we never partook in before. During our 3.5 hour outing we saw a variety of fauna including elephants, water buffaloes, boar, peacocks, jungle fowl, and several species of birds. The highlight of our visit was an encounter with a family of five elephants. We spent about half an hour watching the elephants emerge from the bushes and playing amongst themselves. During most of the encounter it was our vehicle and one other. At the very end a couple of other ones approached, and we saw one of the vehicles try to maneuver so that its passengers could get a good view. It was at this point that we asked our driver to move on.
The highlight of our first morning safari were a couple of peacocks that unfurled themselves in splendid beauty. It was fun to watch the two interact with one another. At times it seemed they were performing an elaborate dance number. It was also on this visit that our driver attempted to join a caravan of other vehicles in search of a leopard after news of it's spotting from another driver. As we approached the site we politely asked our driver to turn around, a request he didn't seem to understand or want to follow. It was only after a few very stern follow up attempts when we clearly got the picture that we wouldn't have it. Even though we were still a bit away we saw at least a dozen vehicles up ahead, perhaps more. "This cannot be good, not for the leopard or any other animal in the area" I thought to myself. "Why is there not more regulation and restrictions against this practice?" Now as I mentioned I have not had the opportunity to visit Africa yet so I don't know if this is more commonplace but I just knew I didn't want anything to do with it.
In all we went on three safari outings. Each time the experience was different and we were able to see things that we didn't on other occasions. We were glad that we were able to go out more than once.
In addition to the safaris, we also partook in an afternoon nature walk around the hotel grounds and it's surrounds thanks to the suggestion of Ann (thank you, Ann). The two hour outing was a delight. We enjoyed having been able to ramble about in the wild on the lookout of various animals including buffalo, a crocodile sunning on a rock by the lake, and a few species of birds. Our guide was very knowledgeable of the habitat and were able to point out things to us that we would not have noticed. We walked around the lake on the hotel's property and along the sandy beach fronting the Indian Ocean.
Originally we were not sure if three nights at Yala were not enough or too much, but it was just right for us. The three nights allowed us to experience multiple safari outings, a nature walk, and some time to enjoy our hotel grounds.
Cinnamon Wild
The Cinnamon Wild is the closest hotel to the entrance to Yala National Park. The hotel consists of about 100 or so individual cabanas set in a lush bush setting. The cabanas are spacious and well appointed. The king size poster beds come with mosquito netting. The bathrooms were not large but very functional. We enjoyed our rooms a lot as well as the grounds that the property sits on.
The service from the staff is hit or miss, depending on who you encountered. Take, for example, our request for wake-up calls. On the first evening, we probably spent a good 5 minutes explaining why we wanted a 4am call. The agent we worked with could not understand that it took us a bit longer to get ready and that I had a couple of work-related items to attend to before heading out the door. He kept on insisting that 4am was too early for a 5:30 safari. And sure enough we did not get our wake-up call the next morning until 5am, which caused us to scramble more than I would have liked as well as delayed our safari departure by 45 minutes. The next morning was a completely different experience as the front desk agent we talked to wrote our wake-up request time in his log, signed his name, and asked us to do the same.
Given that the hotel is in a remote location our only dining options were at the one restaurant and one bar located on the property. Meals are served buffet style. While the breakfasts were adequate the lunches and dinners didn't offer much in terms of choice. The items served were almost identical between lunch and dinner and each night we had dinner there. We had a couple of lunches at the bar and those were better.
With Yala our 16 night journey across Sri Lanka came to a close. We covered a lot of ground during a short amount of time and did so much more than we anticipated.
I have to run now but will conclude my report with some final observations and thoughts as well as our experience with BSL.
Mar 22nd, 2015, 03:46 AM
#66
During most of the encounter it was our vehicle and one other. At the very end a couple of other ones approached, and we saw one of the vehicles try to maneuver so that its passengers could get a good view. It was at this point that we asked our driver to move on.>>
as you later explain, you were lucky on this occasion. Sadly your later experience is much more the norm unless you put your foot down very firmly. Having been on safari in Africa, we were glad that we had only 2 nights there - it was enough for us, but I'm glad that it worked out for you, and especially glad that you like the guided walk.
as you later explain, you were lucky on this occasion. Sadly your later experience is much more the norm unless you put your foot down very firmly. Having been on safari in Africa, we were glad that we had only 2 nights there - it was enough for us, but I'm glad that it worked out for you, and especially glad that you like the guided walk.
Mar 22nd, 2015, 05:10 AM
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Kathie, you're absolutely right. Having experienced it firsthand, I can understand why Yala gets mixed reviews. Unless you are really clear with your driver and he obliges, you could find yourself stuck in gridlock and may or may not catch glimpses of the animal in question. Given that this was our first safari there was a general sense of excitement among us. And we went in knowing that we may or may not see all the wildlife we came to see as they are "wild"; we were lucky for the variety we saw except for leopards.
Ann, our experiences were mostly good after the one incident and our driver understood us. Having done both, how would you compare your experience in Yala with those in Africa?
Ann, our experiences were mostly good after the one incident and our driver understood us. Having done both, how would you compare your experience in Yala with those in Africa?
Mar 22nd, 2015, 05:54 AM
#68
I didn't make it to Yala because I was booking too late to get decent accommodation. I'm glad you thought it was worthwhile, but I have yet to read a report that really makes me sorry I missed it.
Mar 22nd, 2015, 06:30 AM
#69
Ann, our experiences were mostly good after the one incident and our driver understood us. Having done both, how would you compare your experience in Yala with those in Africa?>>
TP, I would say that the african experiences [albeit they were about 10 years ago so my memory fades somewhat] were a great deal better. We only went to the area of South Africa around Port Elizabeth, not to Kruger, and we haven't been to east africa [Kenya, Tanzania] at all, so my experiences are limited. However, what we did was very ecologically aware, no chasing of animals at all. they come to you, not you to them. obviously the guides and trackers know where they are likely to be found, so that's where they go, but that's about it, IME.
We were somewhat prepared for what we might find at Yala by our experiences at Minneriya with the elephants - which I felt very strongly got close to being dangerous, particularly when the driver positioned our jeep almost in the path of the elephants' route to the watering hole. Bad for us, and very bad for them. Hence our starting position with the guide at Yala that we only wanted to see birds, not chase the animals around.
Were we to return to SA or anywhere else to take part in this type of activity, I would be very keen on ensuring that it didn't involve any of the things I saw going on at Yala. However, we have discovered that these sorts of experiences are not for us - we prefer a quiet walk taken at our own pace which is why, like you, we enjoyed the guided walk so much.
TP, I would say that the african experiences [albeit they were about 10 years ago so my memory fades somewhat] were a great deal better. We only went to the area of South Africa around Port Elizabeth, not to Kruger, and we haven't been to east africa [Kenya, Tanzania] at all, so my experiences are limited. However, what we did was very ecologically aware, no chasing of animals at all. they come to you, not you to them. obviously the guides and trackers know where they are likely to be found, so that's where they go, but that's about it, IME.
We were somewhat prepared for what we might find at Yala by our experiences at Minneriya with the elephants - which I felt very strongly got close to being dangerous, particularly when the driver positioned our jeep almost in the path of the elephants' route to the watering hole. Bad for us, and very bad for them. Hence our starting position with the guide at Yala that we only wanted to see birds, not chase the animals around.
Were we to return to SA or anywhere else to take part in this type of activity, I would be very keen on ensuring that it didn't involve any of the things I saw going on at Yala. However, we have discovered that these sorts of experiences are not for us - we prefer a quiet walk taken at our own pace which is why, like you, we enjoyed the guided walk so much.
Mar 22nd, 2015, 02:58 PM
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Thursdaysd, I hear you. The nice thing about Sri Lanka is how rich and varied it is. There's so much to do that you can tailor your trip according to your interests.
Ann, thanks for your observations. What Yala has showed us is that we would aim for a quiet place for an African safari, somewhere that isn't overrun with visitors. A walking safari would be awesome.
Ann, thanks for your observations. What Yala has showed us is that we would aim for a quiet place for an African safari, somewhere that isn't overrun with visitors. A walking safari would be awesome.
Mar 23rd, 2015, 04:36 PM
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So enjoying catching up on this TR,thanks for posting tripplanner001. As Mohammed said it's such a great opportunity to travel along and it brings back out trip from last year.
When I lived in Southern Africa I did quite a number of safaris and we have done some game viewing in Indian and Sri Lanka. The experience is ENTIRELY different. In Southern Africa the guides are incredibly well trained and have to pass a number of exams over several years. The preserves are often only accessible to the wealthy. In India and Sri Lanka it's a much more democratic experience for good and bad. You can come in in a large bus at Yala. However, we've had great tiger viewing in Ranthambore, though it was hot in April. There's also great rhino viewing in Assam.
We had a good experience at Yala. We didn't see leopard (though we met a Welsh woman who had seen four on one drive) but we saw lots of elephant and the guide was good. Our trip to Sri Lanka was a very last minute affair, due to a cancelled trip to Bangladesh we arrived not having booked anything. Given that we lost money on the Bangladesh debacle I picked more modest places that I might normally choose. At Yala I though this was advantageous in that I didn't think the "safari" camp experience would be worth it. It didn't matter anyway as the were booked up either way!
Here's my post on Yala for anyone who is interested. WE just did one drive up from the place we stayed on the coast.
http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2014/...ka.html?q=yala
When I lived in Southern Africa I did quite a number of safaris and we have done some game viewing in Indian and Sri Lanka. The experience is ENTIRELY different. In Southern Africa the guides are incredibly well trained and have to pass a number of exams over several years. The preserves are often only accessible to the wealthy. In India and Sri Lanka it's a much more democratic experience for good and bad. You can come in in a large bus at Yala. However, we've had great tiger viewing in Ranthambore, though it was hot in April. There's also great rhino viewing in Assam.
We had a good experience at Yala. We didn't see leopard (though we met a Welsh woman who had seen four on one drive) but we saw lots of elephant and the guide was good. Our trip to Sri Lanka was a very last minute affair, due to a cancelled trip to Bangladesh we arrived not having booked anything. Given that we lost money on the Bangladesh debacle I picked more modest places that I might normally choose. At Yala I though this was advantageous in that I didn't think the "safari" camp experience would be worth it. It didn't matter anyway as the were booked up either way!
Here's my post on Yala for anyone who is interested. WE just did one drive up from the place we stayed on the coast.
http://www.somuchmoretosee.com/2014/...ka.html?q=yala
Mar 23rd, 2015, 06:55 PM
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WellTraveledBrit, you're welcome. And thanks for sharing your perspective on Yala and for the comparison with other safari destinations.
And here's the rest of my report:
Final Thoughts
Sri Lanka is one of my new favorite Asian destinations. I really appreciated the rich diversity that the country offered. From reading about some of your trip reports and through my own research, I expected some variety but was not prepared with the vast differences I experienced from the Cultural Triangle to Tea Country to Yala. In a little more than two weeks, I felt I visited three or four different countries. While the sights and sounds I experienced were unique to Sri Lanka, there were times I felt like I was in England, Switzerland, India, and Africa, all within days.
I also felt like I visited Sri Lanka at a very special time. With the election of a new president, Sirisena, in January, there seemed to be a new optimism in the air. While the Tamil and Moorish minorities expressed hope of a new and more equitable society, there was also a genuine sense among the Sinhalese working class that they now have a leader that will genuinely attempt to represent the people that brought him to power.
This is in contract to thoughts about Sri Lanka's last leader, Rajapaksa, who was in power for close to a decade. Even those who thought Rajapaksa was relatively good for the people expressed frustration with the pervasiveness of corruption that marred his tenure, even though some seemed to blame his brother and his son more than they blamed him. People complained about everything from Hambantota Airport to the players on the national cricket team, and the role of corruption in all aspects of society.
The perception around Sri Lanka's place in the world, I thought, was also very interesting. Folks generally seemed to have a positive view of China, which people credited with bringing infrastructure upgrades to the island nation, particularly the new highways and new train cars. On the flip side, there seemed to be a sense of contempt for India. Everything from hygiene to the perceived lack of disorder, the Sri Lankans that I had conversations with did not think very highly of their much larger neighbor. As for the United States, their minds automatically turned to President Obama. When someone asked where I was from, and I said the United States, they responded with "Obama" and smiled. There seems to be a large amount of goodwill generated in this part of the world with the election of President Obama, even six years on.
Boutique Sri Lanka
I highly recommend the services of BSL. When making arrangments for our trip, I worked closely with Chamila, who helped with our itinerary as well as provided recommendations on accommodations, and Doris, who arranged our transportation. They were very responsive to our emails and were most eager to work with us to tailor our itinerary to our interests.
Sanjeewa, our driver for 16 days, could not have been more of a joy. During our time, we really had the opportunity to get to know one another, share meals, and truly enjoy one another's company. After several days on the road with him, Sanjeewa became very comfortable with us. He joined us on several visits and accompanied us on a few hikes. He looked out for us, and make sure we were happy and comfortable. We very much felt like we were travelling with a friend.
And last but not least, I want to say thank you to all my friends new and old here who kindly joined me for the ride, shared your own experiences with me, and gave me tips along the way. I truly enjoyed being able to share some of my travels with you. I hope you found it useful or at least fun to follow along. Thanks again.
And here's the rest of my report:
Final Thoughts
Sri Lanka is one of my new favorite Asian destinations. I really appreciated the rich diversity that the country offered. From reading about some of your trip reports and through my own research, I expected some variety but was not prepared with the vast differences I experienced from the Cultural Triangle to Tea Country to Yala. In a little more than two weeks, I felt I visited three or four different countries. While the sights and sounds I experienced were unique to Sri Lanka, there were times I felt like I was in England, Switzerland, India, and Africa, all within days.
I also felt like I visited Sri Lanka at a very special time. With the election of a new president, Sirisena, in January, there seemed to be a new optimism in the air. While the Tamil and Moorish minorities expressed hope of a new and more equitable society, there was also a genuine sense among the Sinhalese working class that they now have a leader that will genuinely attempt to represent the people that brought him to power.
This is in contract to thoughts about Sri Lanka's last leader, Rajapaksa, who was in power for close to a decade. Even those who thought Rajapaksa was relatively good for the people expressed frustration with the pervasiveness of corruption that marred his tenure, even though some seemed to blame his brother and his son more than they blamed him. People complained about everything from Hambantota Airport to the players on the national cricket team, and the role of corruption in all aspects of society.
The perception around Sri Lanka's place in the world, I thought, was also very interesting. Folks generally seemed to have a positive view of China, which people credited with bringing infrastructure upgrades to the island nation, particularly the new highways and new train cars. On the flip side, there seemed to be a sense of contempt for India. Everything from hygiene to the perceived lack of disorder, the Sri Lankans that I had conversations with did not think very highly of their much larger neighbor. As for the United States, their minds automatically turned to President Obama. When someone asked where I was from, and I said the United States, they responded with "Obama" and smiled. There seems to be a large amount of goodwill generated in this part of the world with the election of President Obama, even six years on.
Boutique Sri Lanka
I highly recommend the services of BSL. When making arrangments for our trip, I worked closely with Chamila, who helped with our itinerary as well as provided recommendations on accommodations, and Doris, who arranged our transportation. They were very responsive to our emails and were most eager to work with us to tailor our itinerary to our interests.
Sanjeewa, our driver for 16 days, could not have been more of a joy. During our time, we really had the opportunity to get to know one another, share meals, and truly enjoy one another's company. After several days on the road with him, Sanjeewa became very comfortable with us. He joined us on several visits and accompanied us on a few hikes. He looked out for us, and make sure we were happy and comfortable. We very much felt like we were travelling with a friend.
And last but not least, I want to say thank you to all my friends new and old here who kindly joined me for the ride, shared your own experiences with me, and gave me tips along the way. I truly enjoyed being able to share some of my travels with you. I hope you found it useful or at least fun to follow along. Thanks again.
Mar 24th, 2015, 12:56 PM
#75
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Kathie, thank you. Sri Lanka is one of those places that I plan on revisiting. Would love to venture in and around Jaffna on a future trip while it is still off the radar of most.
Ann, you're welcome. The pleasure was mine.
Ann, you're welcome. The pleasure was mine.
Mar 24th, 2015, 01:36 PM
#78
And Sri Lanka is definitely near the top of my list, thanks to you TP. I've so thoroughly enjoyed this ride! And, Smeagol and Ann, I've enjoyed reading your reports, too -- they are now in my "saved" folder and will be important when I do start planning!
Paule
Paule
Mar 24th, 2015, 01:49 PM
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TP - I really agree with your assessment that Sri Lanka offers such diversity to the traveller, we felt exactly the same way. It seemed there was so much in what is a relatively manageably sized country. Thanks again for posting such a thoughtful trip report.
It looks Like we are all planning on going back, I'm looking forward to some trip reports focusing on the north!
It looks Like we are all planning on going back, I'm looking forward to some trip reports focusing on the north!
