Offwego to Burma
Aug 11th, 2011, 03:10 PM
#22
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offwego- thanks for your informative report. I have booked 28 days in Myanmar in January using Santa Maria. With them, I have booked an airport transfer in Mandalay, car and guide in Mandalay for 2.5 days and airport transfer to Inle from Heho via Kakku (using compulsory Kakku guide only). I am making my own arrangments for cars/taxis and guides elsewhere.
I am inclined to keep the Santa Maria transfer from Heho but would be interested in your thoughts about Mandalay. Did you use local drivers/guides there? Which sites did you visit in the area and what transport would you recommend? Do you think guides are worth it in the Mandalay area at $25/day? Thanks for any info you can provide.
Stephen
I am inclined to keep the Santa Maria transfer from Heho but would be interested in your thoughts about Mandalay. Did you use local drivers/guides there? Which sites did you visit in the area and what transport would you recommend? Do you think guides are worth it in the Mandalay area at $25/day? Thanks for any info you can provide.
Stephen
Aug 12th, 2011, 12:53 AM
#23
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Chindwin. DingDing. That sir, is the correct answer.
Kathie I was so tired of the sellers after the first day that I gave up and got on a bike the second day and returned to a few big temples to see if I could sorta sneak in another entrance, etc. Not to be. They would always find me, hound me down, follow me around, it was really annoying. After 5 years in Siem Reap I fancy myself as having some pretty good avoidance methods, but nothing really worked. I gotta say it lessened my experience at Bagan. At least at Angkor, once you're inside, you can relax.
Inle was on the other hand absolutely magical.
Here's my two cents about guides in Mandalay: absolutely not important unless you have no idea what to do or where to go in which case you will be taken on "the circuit" which is fine, but super hard to get them to break out of it. All over Mandalay you'll see tiny blue and white trucks with benches. Find one of those guys that seems jovial and has some English and head out. I had a MUCH better experience once I figured this out.
The Mandalay airport is far from town; I did find it nice to have the SM driver there with my name on a sign and have a nice ride to town, but after that it's sorta overkill.
From Mandalay we went to U Bien Bridge twice, at different times of the day; we went to Mingun which was nice mostly for the boat ride. We saw a Pagoda or two, went to Mandalay Hill for the obligatory sunset, and I shopped for textiles (much to the taxi driver's delight~!
I saw the Moustache Brothers one evening, which I recommend.
The police: they just needed my passport number and destination, no one asked to see my actual passport. I could have told them whatever I wanted and sometimes did.
Took my first trip in a decade without my own computer and did not miss it. Nowhere had wifi anyway. I used internet cafes and/or whatever computer they had at the hotel(s)
Kathie I was so tired of the sellers after the first day that I gave up and got on a bike the second day and returned to a few big temples to see if I could sorta sneak in another entrance, etc. Not to be. They would always find me, hound me down, follow me around, it was really annoying. After 5 years in Siem Reap I fancy myself as having some pretty good avoidance methods, but nothing really worked. I gotta say it lessened my experience at Bagan. At least at Angkor, once you're inside, you can relax.
Inle was on the other hand absolutely magical.
Here's my two cents about guides in Mandalay: absolutely not important unless you have no idea what to do or where to go in which case you will be taken on "the circuit" which is fine, but super hard to get them to break out of it. All over Mandalay you'll see tiny blue and white trucks with benches. Find one of those guys that seems jovial and has some English and head out. I had a MUCH better experience once I figured this out.
The Mandalay airport is far from town; I did find it nice to have the SM driver there with my name on a sign and have a nice ride to town, but after that it's sorta overkill.
From Mandalay we went to U Bien Bridge twice, at different times of the day; we went to Mingun which was nice mostly for the boat ride. We saw a Pagoda or two, went to Mandalay Hill for the obligatory sunset, and I shopped for textiles (much to the taxi driver's delight~!
I saw the Moustache Brothers one evening, which I recommend.The police: they just needed my passport number and destination, no one asked to see my actual passport. I could have told them whatever I wanted and sometimes did.
Took my first trip in a decade without my own computer and did not miss it. Nowhere had wifi anyway. I used internet cafes and/or whatever computer they had at the hotel(s)
Aug 12th, 2011, 06:12 AM
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Lori, As you know I also love textiles and plan to shop for them in Mandalay. Any recommendations you have for specific places to buy would be much appreciated. I also plan to shop in Yangon. BTW, did you get any of the lotus fiber textiles at Inle?
I'm not a big fan of using guides (with a few notable exceptions), as I do a lot of research ahead of time. I asked only for a car and driver for our time in Mandalay. Frankly, after the god-awful taxis we rode in in Yangon, I wanted to make sure we had an ok vehicle!
I'm not a big fan of using guides (with a few notable exceptions), as I do a lot of research ahead of time. I asked only for a car and driver for our time in Mandalay. Frankly, after the god-awful taxis we rode in in Yangon, I wanted to make sure we had an ok vehicle!
Aug 12th, 2011, 04:06 PM
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Kathie I found the best selection of old and new pieces at a place called "Rocky", 27th Street, between 62nd and 63rd. 09-2013447. I did not get any of the lotus fiber textiles at Inle as it was pouring rain the day we were near there and we opted to head back to the hotel.
There was a place selling hilltribe textiles and jewelry at Scott's Market in Yangon that had some nice pieces at a very good price. I can't remember the name of the place but it was on the 2nd floor and seemed to be the only one of it's kind at that market; I'm sure if you asked someone they could tell you where it is.
Happy hunting!
There was a place selling hilltribe textiles and jewelry at Scott's Market in Yangon that had some nice pieces at a very good price. I can't remember the name of the place but it was on the 2nd floor and seemed to be the only one of it's kind at that market; I'm sure if you asked someone they could tell you where it is.
Happy hunting!
Aug 12th, 2011, 04:38 PM
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I've described that same shop in here, lori, multiple times - but nobody listens to me. It is excellent - AND the one next door.
Here's a Chindwin teaser for you.
http://dogster5.wordpress.com/chindwin-2/
You can only go in September or October. Better turn round fast.
Here's a Chindwin teaser for you.
http://dogster5.wordpress.com/chindwin-2/
You can only go in September or October. Better turn round fast.
Aug 12th, 2011, 09:30 PM
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I love the photos, very tight cropping that really works. The colours are so vibrant.
I was never stopped by the police, in fact I cant recall seeing any police although they must have been around. Being stopped reminded me of an incident back in 1984 when a mad Frenchman nearly had us in trouble with the army; despite the best efforts of a super polite Burmese communist party official who tried the stop the Frenchman incriminating himself. I must write up this incident sometime as it is so funny (now not then ) and something Dogster could turn into a great story.
As for the touts around Pagan I hardly saw any except the painting vendors who were usually half asleep. I seemed to attract more touts in Angkor who followed us around the temple and even when we were eating lunch.
As to the cost of the drivers all our drivers were included in our tour organised by Shan Yoma and the price was so reasonable I didn’t entertain not using their drivers. I must admit I didn’t get an itemised price, just a total for everything included.
I must agree Burmese food is ordinary at best. Exceptions are the Moon Vegetarian in Pagan and the Taste of Mandalay but I wasn’t impressed with the Monsoon etc. I find Burmese food lacks the freshness of Thai or Khmer. The food in Siem Reap is excellent and worth a visit for the food itself. However I prefer Burmese food to Vietnamese or Lao; just a personal thing I guess.
Anyway thanks for the photos and the trip report, it makes me want to return once again.
I was never stopped by the police, in fact I cant recall seeing any police although they must have been around. Being stopped reminded me of an incident back in 1984 when a mad Frenchman nearly had us in trouble with the army; despite the best efforts of a super polite Burmese communist party official who tried the stop the Frenchman incriminating himself. I must write up this incident sometime as it is so funny (now not then ) and something Dogster could turn into a great story.
As for the touts around Pagan I hardly saw any except the painting vendors who were usually half asleep. I seemed to attract more touts in Angkor who followed us around the temple and even when we were eating lunch.
As to the cost of the drivers all our drivers were included in our tour organised by Shan Yoma and the price was so reasonable I didn’t entertain not using their drivers. I must admit I didn’t get an itemised price, just a total for everything included.
I must agree Burmese food is ordinary at best. Exceptions are the Moon Vegetarian in Pagan and the Taste of Mandalay but I wasn’t impressed with the Monsoon etc. I find Burmese food lacks the freshness of Thai or Khmer. The food in Siem Reap is excellent and worth a visit for the food itself. However I prefer Burmese food to Vietnamese or Lao; just a personal thing I guess.
Anyway thanks for the photos and the trip report, it makes me want to return once again.
Aug 18th, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Lori, your photos are awesome! It is a photogenic destination, but you have taken that natural designation and raised it a couple of notches.
What hotels did you use? Particularly in Mandalay and Inle. And were you booked ahead?
Sounds like overall internet is improving in Burma.
What hotels did you use? Particularly in Mandalay and Inle. And were you booked ahead?
Sounds like overall internet is improving in Burma.
Aug 19th, 2011, 06:35 AM
#37
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Thx wintersp.
In Mandalay stayed at the Mandalay View Inn, across the street from the Sedona. $35/night. Charming, locally owned, spotless, sweet staff, excellent internet cafe (with Facebook & yahoo a couple of blocks away. Best food we had in Burma was Indian food for breakfast at the tea shop next door.
At Inle, stayed at the Paradise Inle Resort Hotel which I adored. Stilt bungalows out over the water, very well equipped $45/night. Uber romantic in the rainy season The bar/restaurant was a tad overpriced with mediocre food but I would stay there again, this time BYOB.
Booked all the hotels through Santa Maria because they were 30-40% cheaper than what I could get on my own, so yes I booked them ahead, which I did not like one bit once I got there. SM was very good about changes on the fly.
In Mandalay stayed at the Mandalay View Inn, across the street from the Sedona. $35/night. Charming, locally owned, spotless, sweet staff, excellent internet cafe (with Facebook & yahoo a couple of blocks away. Best food we had in Burma was Indian food for breakfast at the tea shop next door.
At Inle, stayed at the Paradise Inle Resort Hotel which I adored. Stilt bungalows out over the water, very well equipped $45/night. Uber romantic in the rainy season
The bar/restaurant was a tad overpriced with mediocre food but I would stay there again, this time BYOB.Booked all the hotels through Santa Maria because they were 30-40% cheaper than what I could get on my own, so yes I booked them ahead, which I did not like one bit once I got there. SM was very good about changes on the fly.
