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Old Mar 29th, 2008, 09:39 PM
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Northern India Itiereary/trip report

Itinerary for Northern India Trip

I am a long term lurker, first time poster on this site. I have received so much helpful advice here that I wanted to give back.

Following is the itinerary from my Northern India trip put together with the help of the posters here and Mr. VP Singh at Legends and Palaces. I provided Mr. Singh with a list of places I wanted to see along with the types of hotels I wanted to stay in. As many heritage hotels as possible. The only specific hotel request I made was for a tent at the Khem Vilas during my stay at Ranthambore. Mr. Singh made all arrangements, added a number of stops I would never have thought of, took wonderful care of me and provided a really marvelous experience. I can’t thank him enough.

Day 1 – Arrive Delhi – arrived late. Picked up by Mr. Singh and driver delivered to my hotel. Florence Hotel

Day 2 – Delhi – Tour the Qutab Minar (for those of you that are interested in climbing… it’s not currently allowed), the Baha’I Temple a modern thing made to look like an opening lotus blossom, New Delhi – government buildings and the Delhi Gate, Old Delhi - Jama Masjid, and Chandi Chowk bazzar. A very full day through traffic that crawls! Highlight of the day was climbing a minaret at Jama Masjid and a rickshaw ride through Chandi Chowk.

Day 3 – Depart for Jaipur with private driver (say goodbye to Mr. Singh). Stop en route at Samode Palace. Palace is now converted to a very lovely private hotel, tours of the gorgeous durbar hall are available on request. This was a really nice way to break up the drive. The small town of Samode below the palace was lovely and seemed to be a step back in time. Arrive Jaipur early evening and checked in to Ary Niwas hotel.

Day 3 – Early morning elephant ride up hill to Amber Fort. Tour Amber Fort, tour City Palace, Observatory and Palace of Wind. Return to hotel for lunch, afternoon at leisure. I wandered around the old town.

Day 4 – Full day at leisure. I had wanted my driver to take me to the monkey temple a bit out of town however he declined to do so. This in addition to some problems the previous day had me on the phone to Mr. Singh requesting a replacement. This was the only problem I encountered on my trip and while I’m sorry it happened I was very happy with the new driver and the prompt resolution of the issue. I spent the day wandering around Jaipur.

Day 5 – Depart for Sardargh. This is a place I had never heard of and would not have found without Mr. Singh. It’s a knock out. I stayed in Sardargh Fort. The haram quarters of the fort have been converted into hotel by a lovely young couple who are tenth generation owners of the fort. My room and the courtyard outside where so lovely I could hardly drag myself away. After a quiet late lunch and nap I went out with the owner to tour the nearby villages and watch the sunset over the fort from the lake below. It was like traveling with the mayor of the town. He is clearly loved and respected by the locals. Dinner was a lux buffet on the roof of the fort. Another successful day. Sardargh Heritage Hotel.

Day 6 – Depart for Dhamli. This town was put on my itinerary by Mr. Singh. And was another I’d never heard of . So unknown was it that my driver got lost several times, this wasn’t worrying just part of the adventure. I had a fantastic stay. The hotel is owned by Inder an absolutely lovely gentleman and Margaret Reid a charming Canadian woman who runs it for him. I felt like family from the moment I arrived. This is a sleepy little village however I managed to have an eventful stay. After a quick nap and late lunch I rode a horse out to a nearby temple with Inder and meet a marvelous collection of Ryka elders (semi-nomadic people of the area) who were holding a meeting. I have never seen such a remarkable collection of people. We then went out to Inders farm, where I got to play with the baby goats born the night before. They’re awfully cute. Dinner with Margaret at the Fort. Fort Dhamli

Day 7 – It was another early departure but not before going to a show put on by a troop of traveling acrobats and a guided tour of the town from Inder. The next stop was Ranakpur Temple on the way to Udiapur. Ranakpur is an intricately carved Jain Temple. Arrived in Udiapur in the early evening. Went on a lovely walk around town and ate dinner on the roof of my lovely Haveli Hotel looking out at the lake. Hotel Jaiwana Haveli.

Day 8 – Tour Jagdish Temple, The City Palace, and the Princesses Garden. Return to the hotel for lunch. Afternoon out on lake to Jag Mandir Palace. Evening wandering around Udiapur. Hotel Jaiwana Haveli

Day 9 – Morning departure for Bundi. It’s an all day drive. Stop in Chitrogarh to visit the palace ruins and the temples lining the top of the ridge. Arrive in Bundi just before sunset and race up to Bundi Palace. The palace is in sorry shape but well worth the visit. It holds the best collection of paintings I saw on the trip and a large group of ill tempered monkeys that provided a very entertaining show in the palace courtyard. Braj Bhushan Haveli (charming hotel with terrific food.)

Day 10 – Another morning departure for Sawaimadhopur. I was sorry to leave Bundi and wished I were staying another day. A really charming. Afternoon arrival at Sawaimadhopur and jeep safari in Ranthambore Park. Stayed in a luxury tent at the Khem Villas. The Khem Villas was the highlight of my stay in Sawaimadhopur. For animal viewing, particularly tigers I enjoyed and had better success in a previous trip to Tiger Tops in Chitwan National Park in Nepal. That said I LOVED my tent at Khem Vilas.

Day 11 – Slept in and enjoyed the hotel. Afternoon jeep safari in the park. Khem Vilas

Day 12 – All day drive to Peharsar, a little village in the middle of nowhere. Didn’t seem to be much to do or see here. My haveli was nice so I enjoyed an afternoon sitting on the swing outside my bedroom door reading. Chandra Mahal Haveli.

Day 13 – Morning drive to Fatehpur Sikri, then on to Agra. Checked into my hotel for lunch then on to Fort Agra in the afternoon and a visit to the Tomb of Itmadduddaullah. The final stop was to watch the sunset on the Taj Mahal from across the river. Hotel Utkarsh Vilas.

Day 14 – Sunrise at the Taj Mahal. Me and two thousand of my closets friends. (Just kidding but seriously there are a lot of people) I check out of my hotel and bid farewell to my very sweet and faithful driver Abay at the train station. Caught the train to Jhansi (no problems at all, very pleasant ride) and was picked up by another car and driver who took me on to Khajuraho. Hotel Jass Radisson

Day 15 – Tour the Khajuraho Temples, amazing artistry and eye popping subject, well worth the effort. Caught an afternoon flight to Varanasi. Had insisted on a hotel by the river. Had a wonderful dinner on the roof, watched the nightly performance on the banks of the river and had a fabulous walk through the alleyways of Varanasi. Hotel Rashmi Guest House.

Day 16 – Woke early for a boat ride to watch the bathers on the ghats, then visited Kashi Vishwanath, Tulsi Manas and the Durga Temple. I then returned to my hotel and wandered the river bank up to the burning ghat and then back into the alleyways. I should have skipped the temples and just wandered around. Loved exploring Varanasi and would have liked to stay longer. Caught evening flight back to Delhi. Hotel Florence Inn

Day 17 – Day at leisure in Delhi. Had planned to go in to Connaught Place but after so many days of car travel and moving around I was happy to hang out in Karol Bagh. There is plenty of shopping and the fabulous Hannuman Temple which seems to be featured in absolutely no guide books. I am mystified by it’s omission. The Hannuman Temple in Karol Bagh is inside a six story orange monkey (Hannuman) you enter through the snarling mouth of a giant creature maybe an angry baboon and are treated to numerous individual shrines and dioramas. It is the type of “cultural attraction” that you would find on the inter-state, but it was a lot of fun, a working temple and not a single tourist, Indian or otherwise. I can say that about no other place I visited in India. Late night flight out of Delhi.

Thus ends my Indian itinerary. I had a terrific stay. If I had to do it all over again, I would give myself a little more time and would stay longer in Bundi and Varanasi. There is no denying that I spent a lot of time in the car but I never found it painful. The roads (often horrible) are never dull and the action keeps you occupied. I think it was probably the most efficient way to see all the places I wanted to see in the time I had.

I hope this is useful to some of you. I will try to answer any questions posted.




Trvelbug is offline  
Old Mar 30th, 2008, 05:16 AM
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Trvelbug, great report - thanks for sharing. More details, please! Did you just return, and if so, what was the weather like? How did you dress?(are you a man or woman?)How about souvenirs - what did you buy? Would you change anything about your itinerary if you had to do it over? Favorite places? Thanks again! (India's on my list - just not sure when.)
Karen
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Old Mar 30th, 2008, 04:53 PM
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Hi Karen – Owing to a hectic schedule my trip report is very late. I made this trip in November. The weather was perfect, pleasant days and a little cool in the evenings. I believe that things begin to heat up again around this time of year, but I’m not sure.


I am a woman and dressed conservatively, I was still subject to more attention then I would have liked. If I had to do it again, I would buy a salwar suit (baggy pants with a long tunic/dress) sooner. The local women wear these all the time. They are very comfortable and seem to attract less attention, plus buying them was a lot of fun just for the experience.

For souvenirs, I bought the salwar suits mentioned above, bangles, scarves, camel leather slippers and my favorite, an embroidered ottoman from a little shop in Udiapur.

My favorite places where Udiapur and Varanasi. As I mentioned I also really liked Bundi but was there so briefly have little to say about it. I would definitely add time in both Bundi and Varanasi.

The only thing I would change about my itinerary would have been to add time; I really kept moving and would have enjoyed slowing the pace. That said I was happy with all the places I went. I really enjoyed the mixture of larger cities with “middle of nowhere” small towns. I believe Mr. Singh added many of the stops in smaller places just to break up the driving, but they really rounded out the trip.

The problem with India is there is just so much to see. I had initially planned on just focusing on Rajasthan but couldn’t bear the idea of going all the way to India without seeing Varanasi so I added that, and then once I added that I didn’t want to miss Khajuraho….. At that point I had to draw the line.

The only thing I could have skipped was the Taj. I’m not sorry I went of course, and probably would not have been willing to leave it off my itinerary, but while undeniably beautiful, it was really crowded and didn’t capture my imagination as much as I had hoped. I didn’t care much for Agra either. I was pleased to see the nearby abandoned capitol of Fatehpur Sikri though so that was the highlight of the area for me.

I enjoyed so much it’s a hard to pick a favorite but if pressed I would probably say Varanasi. Happy to answer any more questions if you’ve got em.

Mary
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Old Mar 30th, 2008, 05:31 PM
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great report thanks..
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Old Mar 30th, 2008, 11:08 PM
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So nice to read a report featuring so many smaller heritage hotels, I really appreciate it, particularly as we'll be staying at Khem Villas soon!

I was particularly interested in hearing about Sardargh Fort because there is so little information about it online. Do you have anything more to add and is this somewhere you'd recommend for a couple of days.?

The type of person experiences you mentioned were what we loved about staying in the family run heritage places.

Thanks again I really enjoyed your report.


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Old Mar 31st, 2008, 02:45 AM
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Trvelbug, just curious... Was Khem Villas on the Ranthambhore online advance reservation system? Or did you need to stand in line to buy tickets when you got to the park?
I guess some of the area resorts have the online system and others don't.

Also, what tracks did you "draw" for the game drives? We've just returned from the area ourselves.
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Old Mar 31st, 2008, 08:35 AM
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Erika,
I used the online system and booked the trips myself, I don't remember it asking anything about where I was staying. As I understand it it's open to all.

Khem Villas told me it was by far the cheaper way to go.

There are several things to know about the system as it's working right now:
The tickets are non reservations, which are paid for in advance are non refundable and non transferable. Not good news for me when my dates changed!

The reservation goes through PayPal so it's helps to have a PayPal account beforehand.

You'll need your passport numbers to make the reservation.

Hope this helps!
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Old Mar 31st, 2008, 08:47 AM
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Welltraveledbrit – I was really pleased with the heritage hotels. I usually stay in larger more formal hotels but I think I would have missed out had I done that in India. The smaller hotels where lovely, interesting architecturally, and the personal stories of the owners and their connection to each town made for a truly wonderful stay in each. Sardargh Fort was certainly a highlight. It not only has historical interest but it’s a palace! How often do you get to stay in a place like that? I would certainly recommend the Fort for a couple of days. I had a room with a large window box facing a giant lake. Lying in the window box and watching the birds on the lake below was a major treat. The hotel offers a number of activity options for their guests (I can’t find the list right now but I’m looking.) I remember that one of the offerings was a tour of the Fort that they are continuing to restore. I was really sorry not to be able to do that one. I don’t think the fort gets many western tourists, in our trip to the village I met a whole bunch of kids who saw me as an object of curiosity (not commerce) which was a big relief and way more fun. I met an older woman who had never seen white skin before and asked a lot of questions about it. She was concerned that I never got outside!

Ericka – I’m not really sure about the advanced on line arrangements for the Park through Khem Vilas. I know that they will make arrangements for their guests and I’m sure they would have done it perfectly. The owners take excellent care of their guests. In my case all of my park arrangements had been made by Mr. Singh from Legends and Palaces prior to my arrival. I didn’t wait in any lines. The jeep just picked me up at the hotel and off we went.
Sadly I was in zone 3 for both of my jeep safari’s. This is partially what left me a little disappointed with the Ranthambore Park experience. I know that they are trying to be fair with the random assignment of zones but I met several people who had had all of their park visits in the same zone and where less then pleased about it. I think they could come up with some thing better. What zones did you get?
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Old Mar 31st, 2008, 01:02 PM
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We were in 2, 3, 4, 5. Ironically, our best sightings were in 3 (2 different times!) But all our sightings were in the mornings. That might have something to do with it.

Our resort booked our tix ahead of time, too. It's good to know that if they don't do it, individuals can get web access. I've heard that the people who end up in the morning lines don't end up with a pleasant experience.

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Old Mar 31st, 2008, 07:31 PM
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Really enjoyed your report and hearing about some of the smaller off the beaten path locations and heritage hotels. Thanks for posting.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 03:35 AM
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Could you give us an approximate cost of your trip?? I am interested in something similar and need to know whwere to start.

Thanks!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:34 AM
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Trvelbug,

Thank you so much for your detailed trip. My daughter (21) and I will be taking a quick trip to India in Sept with our Chamber of Commerce. We are so looking forward to it.

You mentioned the Monkey Temple. How far out of Jaipur is it? We would love to try to see it.

Also, thank you for mentioning the salwar. A friend at work offered me a couple of them to bring with me and I was thinking against it - I didn't want to look as though I ws trying too hard to 'fit in', however, after your mention of them, perhaps I will take her up on it!

Thanks again - very helpful!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 03:58 PM
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Trvelbug,
Thanks for sharing your wonderful trip!
How would you rate your accomodations in Agra and Delhi for a fellow Fodorite to stay at? I prefer more high-end kind of places that are strong on service and cleanliness.
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Old Jul 7th, 2008, 03:09 AM
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Both of these are economy hotels & have their limitations. At Agra you may go in for it only if hotels like ITC Mughal Sheraton, Taj View, Trident or even Mansingh are sold out.
Happy Travels!
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