Kathie

Glad to see you writing again. Good to read of your time around Mandalay! I agree with you about travel to developing countries. We had a fine trip to Paris last year, but it wasn't "an adventure."

I'll be in touch about the kyat.

BostonHarbor

NMV, I'm so relieved to read your post. It's been a while since you posted and I was worried that you had a set back. It's great to hear you are on the mend and it's fun reading your report. Remember, you promised to post pictures of the hospital in Inle Lake. I'm dying to see those.

I'm seriously so glad you are better, and I"m glad you are going to rock the lightening-singed white scarf. I would to! What an astonishing story you have!

needmorevacation

So sorry Boston, you're right, I did promise those!

Here is the link to my entire album, most of the hospital photos are about 2/3 of the way through: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=2df5857ed5

(I didn't take these photos BTW, the nurse who was with me was using my phone to take pics to show her colleagues at home, as hers was having a hard time recovering from the water- it did wake up the next day!)

If that doesn't work, I can upload to a photo sharing site as well

crosscheck

Thanks for the wonderful photos and for continuing your report. What an ordeal/adventure. You are to be commended for your upbeat attitude, which shows in the images of your hospital stay. This is a great read because of your passion for travel...and for the foreshadowing of what is to come.

welltraveledbrit

What an astonishing experience.

Thanks so much for posting the full trip report, I think it says a great deal about you that you can still look back on the rest of your trip with joy and enthusiasm. Good for you.

A very good friend of mine ended up in an Indian hospital years ago, when backpacking. her descriptions of the conditions were as memorable as yours. It's a reminded that we are all very lucky to come home safely and to have access to the healthcare we may enjoy in the developed world.

Thanks again for your TR

needmorevacation

Thanks crosscheck! My awesome ER nurse/friend was taking lots of pics of the hospital, and I asked that she take that one of me to send to my Mom when I got back to the hotel so she would know I'm (sort of) ok!

I'm working on more installments, stay tuned!

needmorevacation

Day 6

We head out early by bus to Bagan. We'd planned on taking a 9-11 hour boat ride, but alas there was not enough water, so 4 hours on the bus was the way to go!

We arrived in New Bagan and to the Sky Palace Hotel. The first thing we noticed- FAST wifi! Nice hotel, a small but sufficient breakfast buffet and a POOL! I was so looking forward to cooling off in here, but alas, the whole thing felt like a hot bath, which makes sense as it was "Feels Like 111" out However, the powerful A/C in the room after a dip in the pool was quite refreshing!

Anyway, quick lunch at a cute spot just down 2nd from the Sky Palace- I can't remember the name-ugh!- that had outstanding cashew chicken, both times I ate there! After lunch I grabbed a map and started exploring. I walked a bit through town and then to Lawkananda Pagoda (and accidentally through a monastery...)

Lawkananda was beautiful, it looked 'new' as it was very well maintained and the grounds were spotless. However even the teak (?) pathways put in to avoid the hot ground were too hot so I would imagine the cleanliness is due to no one hanging around there for a long time! Great views of the river from here, and a nice place to sit just to the side of the pagoda on some benches under a tree.

After a quick hop in the pool, and a shower, we headed down to the Black Rose for dinner. Apart from some loud music coming from a pagoda nearby, it was a lovely, well priced dinner. I remember there were sign that said they had Wifi as well! It wasn't more than a 5 minute walk down the main road from the Sky Palace.

needmorevacation

Day 7

First full day in Bagan! Time for temples!

After a wonderful surprise of Cocoa Krispies at the Sky Palace, we're off by bus to Pyathagyi. It's nice to be here early (and in the off season) as there's only about 20 people here, including our guide and everyone selling paintings/elephant pants
Great views of the Bagan plain and a simple walk up- just mind your head!

We next head to Shwezigon, lovely marble and the large golden stupa. I really enjoyed the photos of Shwezigon over the years and the historical information they had on the walls. This is also the place I discovered a small tiny little fleck of dust on the mirror of my DSLR. I will admit, I spent a lot of my time here trying (unsuccessfully) to clean it. (Of course, this camera was later destroyed anyways, so the dust is no longer an issue )

Afterwards, we went to the Nyaung-Oo market- much much less smelly than I expected- mostly great looking veggies and a lot of single-use shampoo packets. Some souvenir shopping here too, but everything looked 'processed' if that makes sense, or similar to things I had seen in Cambodia (and avoided there as well!).

Off to Htilominlo- I really really liked this temple. It was different from others in it's construction- especially the top of it. It was a bit too hot to wander and explore the outside as much as I would've liked, but this lead me to one of the nearby stalls where I picked up two sand paintings. Neat technique and very beautiful artistry. Both are now framed and awaiting placement on the walls!

Finally, off to Ananda.Beautiful on the inside an out. Loved the 4 golden Buddhas, and the mini-buddhas in their cut-outs in the walls went all the way up. There were also some bats hanging out in here- eeeek- but we we'rent disturbed by them. I really enjoyed what's left of some of the original paintings on the walls/ceilings of then entrance to the pagoda. There was one seller here who had some beautiful pearls, and I couldn't resist- after the tooth test!- and picked up a strand for me and my mom- a steal at $25.

Off to lunch. Be Kind to Animals- The Moon. WOW. I want to go back to Burma mostly to have lunch and dinner here over and over. I had the green bean and potato salad and it was out of this world delicious. I wanted to go into the kitchen and watch them make it so I could try to replicate it at home- best meal I had in Burma hands down. Do you guys get that I loved this place? Or should I keep going??

Quick nap then off to Bagan House Laquerware (not a 2 minute walk from the Sky Palace) Got to see the process from start to finish. Very different than the laquerware I saw in Vietnam - both in process and artistry. I have to say, I like the Burmese process (most everything hand shaped out of bamboo!) and artistry (etching and muted colors vs. the high gloss bright colors of Vietnamese laquerware)

Sunset- headed to a temple with our guide- I can not remember the name! Ugh! The entrance was almost hidden and I wouldn't have made it to the top if not for my headlamp- tiny dark staircase!! However, great great views, even if it was a tad hazy for sunset

Off to the bike shop across the main road from Sky Palace to rent our bikes for sunrise the next morning. I was hungry and the Green Elephant was next door. Dinner was ok, but overpriced for the slow service and sub-par taste. Should have made the walk back to the Black Rose!

needmorevacation

Day 8

VERY early wake up call today! Around 4:30 we head off by bike to Shwesandaw. It was an easy mostly downhill bike to the temple in the dark (bring your headlamp!) We arrive and hike up the stirs to the top and wait. Sunset was beautiful, and it was great to see the few temples lit up (while it was still dark) and then lit by the sun. Thankfully it wasn't super crowded!!

Bike back through Tharbar gate and back uphill to the Sky Palace. I did have to walk my bike up parts of the hill, I won't lie. The bikes aren't made for someone who is 5'11 with abnormally long legs (even for my height!) nor do the gears function very well... or it could be those in combination with the fact that I'd been awake for 2 hours without food and I had no energy I believe the bike rental for the night before/day of was 2500k

Back to Sky Palace, have an hour nap, breakfast and I make my way solo to the horse cart stand. I find a nice younger guy to take me around for the day for 25,000k. I forget his name (ugh, lightning!) but his horse's name was Madonna (of course, being an equestrian I remember her name...) I have a few temples I'd like to see, and ask that he recommend any as well.

We're not a few hundred meters down the road and I ask to stop- there are a few small temples, and I start wandering around. In total I see about 20 very small temples all to myself. None seem to have names, or much in the way of offerings, but I enjoy discovering everything myself and the peace and quiet!

Back to Madonna and we're off. Nagayon is next (well the temple just behind Nagayon is, but I don't have the name of that one handy- I still am unable to find my marked Bagan map!) I'm the only person at both of these temples. I really, really enjoy getting the explore them on my own and at my own pace. There was one woman at the first temple who showed me a secret staircase to the top (maybe not secret, but I wouldn't have found it!) and never pressured me to buy anything (a nice change!). Nagayon also had one woman selling some small laquerware, but again, no hassle at all.

I hit another small temple across the street, and finally encountered two tourists, one of whom was also in a UT Longhorns hat! Small world!

Then on to Napaya, a nice woman approached me, took me all around the outside and inside of the temple and had amazing english. At the end she asked me to look at her wares, I did so, but the quality was quite low and I wasn't interested. She picked up a box and handed it to me, and then asked how much- you know the story! It ended with me having to run away and her screaming at me in Burmese! I felt horrible, but I did try and refuse her 'tour' at first, and tried to tip her but she wanted me to buy something vs a small tip. Beautiful carvings in this temple, and a few untouched paintings, but it's her that I remember most!

So I ran right to Manuha. There is a small areas to view the GIANT buddha in the front - maybe he only looks uber giant because it's just him? I walked around back to find a reclining Buddha as well. Manuha was filled with locals, so much so that I had trouble getting around, so it was a quick stop and back to Madonna.

Last stop before lunch was Gaw Daw Palin. Very impressive from the outside- I believe this is the 2nd largest in Bagan? Lots of sellers at the entrance, but a nice place to visit. Too bad the 2nd level is now closed, I'd have liked to see the views from there!

Lunch- can you guess where I went? Be Kind to Animals- The Moon. Same potato and green bean salad, in addition to some scrumptious spring rolls. Ah-ma-zing. A man and his very well dressed guide sat down at a table next to me, and the man began commenting on how expensive the options were- $10 for a drink, $30 for spring rolls? His guide and I had quite the chuckle as he figured out he needed to take off 3 zeros from the kyat price, not 2! Once he realized this he said "well then let's have a feast!" Obviously he had just arrived in Myanmar, but still it was pretty funny.

Next stop (I believe) was Thatbyinnyu. I don't remember much of the inside other than that there were a number of people sleeping... I went walking around some smaller temples near by and found one with a brick buddha inside! Interesting! On my way back to Madonna I also ran into a small buy who showed me his money 'collection' bills from around the world- he knew every country! And the $1USD bill was crisper than any I had! He never asked me for anything, so I'm not 100% on what he was doing, but I enjoyed seeing his rather vast currency collection!

Last stop of the day, Mahabodhi. Saw one couple heading out, otherwise had the place to myself. Love the golden buddhas in the wall near the entrance, as well as all of the buddhas around the temple. There were a few stalls to the side, only one was open, occupied by the girlfriend of my horse cart driver! She was nice enough to paint my (at that point) very red and hot face with the tanaka (sp?) root paste- wow! Instantly cooler! and my face was smoother the next day She was so kind, I bought some of the ready-made paste (it was hardened of course) for her asking price.

Back to the Sky Palace, I give Madonna some water in my hand which she scoffs at so I put it on her face, again, angry. Typical mare... My geldings all love this. Any way, I drop off my camera and head to Bagan House again where I see a number of police cars, there is what seems to me to be a general here. The police ask for photos with me, I oblige, and then head in for some serious shopping once the general leaves! I picked up two placemats that I had the staff put hooks in to use as wall art (one for me, one for the parents). I got a few little things for my SO's desk and I saw a small owl for his mom who collects them. I also picked up a lovely black horse figurine with gold embellishments. Sadly, his front left leg broke on the way home, but a few applications of super glue and he's *almost* good as new. As were two of the bowls I bought, the lip of one lost a bit of laquer on the flight home. (I had planned to carry these as carry on coming home, but they were checked as I figured one backpack was enough for the wheelchair-pusher to carry! I got a few cups and wineglasses as well as a few bracelets.
I had planned to ship (they do this!) and was expecting a similar price to Cambodia- about $80. Well, it was to be over $400, so they came back with me!

An easy dinner back at the first place I'd had lunch in Bagan, another round of yummy cashew chicken! Then off to sleep

I loved Bagan. It's like a beach town, without the beach. I'd like to return and go ballooning, eat my meals at BKTA-The Moon and enjoy a cooler pool after some more time in the temples

Also, I foolishly forgot that I visited GUBYAUKGYI-MYINKABA yesterday. Loved the paintings, and they now have a dedicated torch inside for viewing It is VERY dark, even in the middle of the day!

Kathie

Loved your Bagan description: "It's like a beach town, without the beach." lol

I'm glad you had such a nice stay in Bagan. We regret that we will not get to Bagan on our upcoming trip.

Thanks for continuing your report.

needmorevacation

Day 9

I left Bagan this morning, was sad to go, but excited to see Mt.Popa. From what I read on Fodor's it was a mixed review, half enjoyed it, half said it was ok to miss. I'm leaning towards 'it was ok to miss' now.

But first I'll back up, on the way to Mt.Popa we stopped at what appeared to be a roadside stand, but was a palm-sugar 'factory'-- we saw how they made the palm sugar alcohol (they called it wine, but no, that's liquor!) and candies. I have a sweet tooth, but the candy was too sweet for me. One woman was making small ornaments out of palm leaves so I did pick up one of those for my mom for 1000k.

Back to Mt.Popa, we stop about 10 minutes away for a nice viewing spot of Mt.Popa- it looks much higher/steeper than I imagined, and it was lovely to look at from a distance.

We begin the climb up, and about 10% of the way up we leave our shoes, and avoid monkey poo for the next 90%, some of which was VERY steep. I had made the mistake that morning of trying a new facial sunblock- comes in a stick- and it cause my face to be unable to sweat, so I had more trouble than I should have getting up there- but I made it! Only had about 15 minutes at the top, which was long enough to get in the view, and see that there wasn't much to see at the top... haha But I did it, and my fitbit credited me about 200 flights of stairs so I'll consider it a win

Now- off to Kalaw.
There wasn't much in my guidebook about Kalaw, so I was on the fence about my time here- but I'm very glad I went!

A few hours into the bus ride we stopped for lunch at what I would call a glorified gas station, but ther bathrooms were HUGE and very clean, and vermicelli for 2000k was filling. They also had some gelato (6000k!) which hit the spot for the 3 or so more hours to Kalaw.

It was a long long drive up and through the mountains, but it was stunning. Our bus had to cool down twice, but that just gave us a better chance to check out the scenery.

We arrive in Kalaw around 4 or 5 and check into the Dream Villa Hotel right in town- no A/C but it is about 70 degrees (a very welcome treat after 105-110 in Bagan!!!) so it's not needed.

I decide to explore the (very small) town and right across the street from us is Moe's Bakery- baked goods! cookies! coffee! cakes!- a welcome treat.

I notice that the cars (trucks) here are very nice, almost all new- there is a military base nearby so there is more money here.

I went to a small restaurant around the corner from the hotel (spacing on the name) it wasn't great, so I wouldn't recommend it anyway

yestravel

Nice to read a description of Kalaw. I join the easy to miss in terms of Mt Popa. Although our guide made the ride out intersting filling the time with stories about his life and the area.

needmorevacation

YesTravel-I'll have more tomorrow on Kalaw It's a small town and our 2 nights there were 'enough', and it was a welcome break in the heat!!

needmorevacation

Day 10

Breakfast at the Dream Villa includes toast and fruit awaiting you at your seat and then your choice of egg- I'm not an egg fan, so they offered me a number of other things somewhat frantically ( this is not the first time the 'I don't want/like/need eggs statement has caused a tizzy in SE Asia...) but I settled on extra toast.

Anyway, we have a short ride on a small bus/truck to a monastery where we begin our climb up the hills to a Pa-O village. The hike up was quite enjoyable and easy for me, a non-hiker. The scenery was breathtaking! Everything is SO GREEN and clear and beautiful. After about 3 hours we made it to a small lower school (today is the first day of class!) where students were reciting their math/burmese. We even caught a few moms peeking in to keep an eye on the youngsters.

Down a short hill was the village which we took a quick walk through and then made it to a local home for lunch. We had soup, noodles and some very fresh fruit. I do wish our guide had been able to tell us more about daily village life, but the woman having us was quite busy with serving etc.

Now, down the mountain. I opted to walk down as I figured we go down the way we came up, wide flat paths. Wrong. We went down the steep/narrow/rocky path and I ate it. Twice. Still got a nice scar too! It only took about an hour to get down, so I was glad to be back on flat-ish ground to wash the red dirt off!

After a shower I took a walk to the local train station built by the British, it was quite interesting to see this tudor-style structure all the way out here! (Do watch the bridge going to the train station from town, there are human-sized holes in which you can fall through)

Back to town for a Nepalese dinner- great! Loved the food and service was quick.

Out time in Kalaw was short but I'm glad we made this stop. It is much less touristy and the cool weather was very welcome!!

yestravel

Perhaps you mentioned this earlier on, but I assume you were with a tour group for the trip to Kalaw. Who was it?

needmorevacation

Day 11

Leaving Kalaw and it's cool weather was hard, but I was very excited to get to Inle Lake- this was probably second to Bagan in sites I was most excited to see.

About an hour into the trip we make a short stop at a village, however it appears everyone has gone to town for the day, so it is deserted. Very pretty but a tad odd to be walking around!

Next Pindaya Natural Caves- after Mandalay Hill, Mt.Popa and the hill tribe hike I was so so happy to hear we were taking the bus to the top and that from there there was even an elevator for the remaining bit (it is vacation after all!).

I got to spend about 1 hour in the cave, which I think was enough time. I went from end to end- at one point I though it would never end! It was quite slippery in parts, so I'm glad I was able to stay upright! ha! There are over 8000 buddhas and I think I saw them all!

Now, to lunch. Green Tea restuarant just down the way from Pindaya- wow! Lovely lovely restaurant, and excellent food. Great view of a small lake from the outdoor dining area.

Last stop before Inle was a small paper factory- we got to see them make the paper and then how they fashioned the umbrellas/lanterns etc. Made a few purchases, including a wooden umbrella- something I could have used the following day!!!

Back to the bus, and to Inle.

We check in at the Paradise Inle Resort hotel. The hotel is a collection of little bungalows that are very well air conditioned, new and clean.

I take a short walk through town to exchange some USD for kyat and then head over to the Red Mountain Winery. They have a lovely view of the lake and we enjoy this during our $2 wine tasting- I end up bringing a bottle of Rose home (it survived checked luggage!) and actually plan on having that this evening- 3 months to the day after the lightning struck!

Back to town for a dinner at what I would call a 'shabby' restaurant, but the dinner of burmese curry, rice and unlimited fresh veggies (I think I ate about 3 whole cucumbers) for 3000k could not be beat.

needmorevacation

Yestravel- I was on a group trip the entire time, but due to pending/possible legal issues, I can't mention the name of the group unfortunately.
I do know there are a number of hilltribe trek/hike guides in town- Lonely Planet has the name/offices of a few

crosscheck

Hi needmore,

Have been thinking about this report and would love to hear the conclusion. Hope you're fully recovered and planning your next trip.

julies

I'd like to hear more too.

needmorevacation

Hi Crosscheck! Julies! Kathie! And everyone else!

I haven't been on here much (at all) as I've been super busy at work and planning my wedding (eeeep!!)

Things are going as well as can be expected- I'm walking and when it's not raining (never, it seems) riding my horses. My hearing is I'd say 98% back, and the ringing is getting better and better. My eyesight is still sensitive (so driving at night is not fun!) but again, getting better!

My burns are healing, it's nice that it's winter now as I don't need to go out with a leg covering on to block the sun (also, no staring!) There are scars, but all things considered, they're not as horrible as I expected.

I did have a very scary few months of depression/PTSD. It came on slowly/about 2 months after I came home. It was on par with actually being hit by lightning, as I felt like there was no one to help me and that nothing could be done. Once the issue was identified I was put on a fabulous drug and after 3 weeks felt like my old self. I'm still working through the PTSD and depression and hope to be off my drugs by March.

I'll finish off my final two days in the next post, although will leave out the hospital details as those are above