My Bangkok,Siem Riep,Golden Triangle, Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara Trip Report
Mar 29th, 2006, 11:05 AM
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My Bangkok,Siem Riep,Golden Triangle, Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara Trip Report
Aloha everyone...sorry so late here is the first installment...the rest to follow shortly
Bangkok/Siem Riep/Golden Triangle/Tokyo/Kyoto/Nara
2/19/06 thru 3/19/06
Our recent trip report into these areas will not be a day by day diary this time but a personal analysis of the places, people, restaurants, hotels and places of interest that we encountered in these cities. Again this is only a personal assessment not meant to hurt anyone or blame anything.
I’ll rate them 1 thru 4 or more if necessary.
Bangkok
Hotels
1. The Four Seasons
This is one of the most comfortable 5 star hotels that I have ever been in. The large rooms are glamorous. The bathrooms are huge and comfortable and the atmosphere I felt in this hotel was did I use this word before, comfortable. They have a large pool area with a lot of shade. The restaurants in this hotel are outstanding (Biscotti’s and the Spice Market) and the location is a good one as it is near to a lot of shopping areas and right on a Sky train stop. The Mandara Spa was a treat with some of the nicest treatment rooms that I’ve seen. The service we got from all of the staff was impeccable and I would stay here again without hesitation. This by far was the best hotel that we stayed at on this trip to Bangkok.
2. The Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit
A very nice 5 star hotel located right on the Asok Sky train stop. Very large rooms I think a tad bigger than the ones at the Four Seasons. Has a very large bathroom again a little larger than at the Four Seasons with separate shower and tub enclosures. We were on the Starwood Preferred Guest (gold) floors so that was a plus. The pool area is not as large as the others but it had a lot of shady areas and the pool winds around like a river thru the jungle maze of the pool area. The also have a Mandara Spa in this hotel but we did not get a chance to use them. They have spectacular restaurants in this hotel and their location right on Sukhumvit is a treat to shoppers and tourists as it is close to the happenings of Bangkok.
3. The Oriental
Nice river view room here as we are in the new wing of the hotel. The service here is impeccable. The room butlers we had were the best that I have ever encountered in all of my travels. The rooms weren’t as big as the 4 Seasons or the SGS but they were adequate. My only complaint here is being asked by the same doorman twice if I was a guest of the hotel. I was dressed appropriately each time in a collared polo shirt with long Dockers pants and dress shoes both times. The second time it happened I asked him to follow me to the manager at the desk and introduced myself to both of them as a registered guest of their hotel. Of course a lot of apologies were made but for that reason alone I don’t think we’ll be staying at the Oriental again. Beautiful hotel but I guess not for me.
4. The Marriott Resort And Spa Hotel
The only reason I’ve rated this hotel lower than the Oriental is that it is really not a 5 star hotel as some have suggested but that said for the price that they charge you and what you get this hotel is a very good bargain. It’s a beautiful oasis of a hotel located a 15 minute boat ride downstream of Bangkok. The rooms are large but don’t have the amenities and touches of the 5 star properties. The Breakfast buffets and the restaurants at the hotel are a notch down from the ones at the other 5 star properties. The pool area is a treat as it is huge and has a lot of shady areas, probably tied with the Four Seasons, IMHO as the best pool area of the lot. We loved our stay at the Marriott and would stay here again without hesitation.
I guess it is unfair to compare 4 and 5 star properties but that’s where we stayed this time so that’s what I’ve got to go on.
Restaurants
2 categories here Thai and Others
Others
1. biscotti – Italian
Located in the Four Seasons Hotel this still is our number one Restaurant in Bangkok. The food is again the greatest even though they have had an extensive menu redo since our last visit.
2. – Gianni Ristorante – Italian Again
34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 Tel: 0-2252-1619, 0-2652-2922
Very good Italian food as Gianni has been in Bangkok for 14 years with this restaurant. He moved to BKK 14 years ago after cooking in his hometown north of Venice. His cooking of course is of the Venetian seafood style and this place is very popular with the local crowd.
3. - Auberge Dab – French
1st flr, Mercury Twr, 540 Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330000Tel: 658-6222-3
Had a really nice romantic dinner here and the food wasn’t bad either.
Great location right off a skytrain exit.
Escargot are heaven. So is dessert which we witnessed some bkk residents (4 women) coming in and eating just that at the bar.
4 – Zanotti Ristorante Italiano
21/2 1st floor, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, Saladaeng Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel 66-2-636-0002
This place was packed and pumping when we got there on a Wednesday evening 7:30 pm. A little expensive for Bangkok standards but we were the only tourists in the place till a foursome emerged just before we left. The food was great. The same owner also owns a wine bar right across the street and the Pizzeria Limoncello next to the Q – Bar down Suk 11 across from The Bed.
4. Amici – Italian food in the Siam Paragon Mall G Level, can you tell I love Italian?
Had lunch here. Very extensive menu and very good food . The pastas were al dente. I had the lamb here which was excellent. They serve bottled water as soon as you sit and charge you 20 baht on your bill. Profiterole dessert is to die for.
5. All of the G Level in Siam Paragon Mall
You have got to see this level with all of the new restaurants and food courts and food malls along with the gourmet super food market this place is HUGE!
This is THE PLACE to get something to eat especially for lunch or a snack. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It is actually better than any food court I’ve seen anywhere is the U.S. Unbelievable!!
Oh and Laurieco they have a huge wine cellar next to the gourmet food market with a huge selection of imported wines (the prices were of course Bangkok high).
THAI
1. Basil
Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit, great Thai food with a beautiful setting makes for a very romantic dinner. This was some of the best Thai food we experienced this trip. They way the shrimp just danced on the sea of sauces were a sight to behold the atmosphere of this restaurant is really something. Glad we took Guenmai’s recommendation to come here. Will be on our list for a return engagement.
2. Inn Chaan in The Rose Garden outside of Bangkok
A beautiful newer restaurant on the grounds of the Rose Garden outside of Bangkok. Beautiful river views from 80% of the seats as almost all have a good view of the river which flows right past the property. The food is as good as the view. The cashew nut chicken was to die for. Ratt took us here one day on our journey thru Kanchanburi (sp) and it was the surprise of the day. Evidently, they have renovated recently and a lot of Thai people from Bangkok rent this area for weddings, anniversaries, big parties, etc. Ratt said they (her and Nick) rented it recently for Nick’s school reunion and it was a hit. Great place for a cheap, good meal!
3. Spice Market
Located in the Four Seasons Hotel. I don’t know why there is a bad review of this restaurant. I remember one complaint being that there where no local people in the place. Well…DUH!!! Four Seasons!!!!…local people ….really don’t mix too well. Put it this way, you won’t find many locals dining at restaurants in the FS.
IMHO the food is fabulous. Linda loves spicy and she was not disappointed. The waiters (locals)had such a blast with us that night that they let us taste a lot of their appetizers for free. When they got to the pepper leaves is when I got off. That leaf is sooooo hot. Anyway, great food and obviously we loved the friendly atmosphere.
4. Lan Na Thai
Located at Face Bar #29 Soi 38, Sukhumvit Road, Prukanong Klongtoey, Bangkok
Tel: 66-2-713 6048-49 www.facebars.com
I guess there has been a spate of complaints about the service here lately but when we ate there (3 times) for lunch, always around 13:30 pm the service was fantastic. We were the only ones there 2 out of 3 times. The other time there were 3 other couples. They had a host and waiter setup where we felt a little uncomfortable the first time as they give you the menu and never leave till you order meal. The food came in quick time and we never felt “alone” while we were there. The complaints must have worked you Fodorites have more power than you know.
Bangkok/Siem Riep/Golden Triangle/Tokyo/Kyoto/Nara
2/19/06 thru 3/19/06
Our recent trip report into these areas will not be a day by day diary this time but a personal analysis of the places, people, restaurants, hotels and places of interest that we encountered in these cities. Again this is only a personal assessment not meant to hurt anyone or blame anything.
I’ll rate them 1 thru 4 or more if necessary.
Bangkok
Hotels
1. The Four Seasons
This is one of the most comfortable 5 star hotels that I have ever been in. The large rooms are glamorous. The bathrooms are huge and comfortable and the atmosphere I felt in this hotel was did I use this word before, comfortable. They have a large pool area with a lot of shade. The restaurants in this hotel are outstanding (Biscotti’s and the Spice Market) and the location is a good one as it is near to a lot of shopping areas and right on a Sky train stop. The Mandara Spa was a treat with some of the nicest treatment rooms that I’ve seen. The service we got from all of the staff was impeccable and I would stay here again without hesitation. This by far was the best hotel that we stayed at on this trip to Bangkok.
2. The Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit
A very nice 5 star hotel located right on the Asok Sky train stop. Very large rooms I think a tad bigger than the ones at the Four Seasons. Has a very large bathroom again a little larger than at the Four Seasons with separate shower and tub enclosures. We were on the Starwood Preferred Guest (gold) floors so that was a plus. The pool area is not as large as the others but it had a lot of shady areas and the pool winds around like a river thru the jungle maze of the pool area. The also have a Mandara Spa in this hotel but we did not get a chance to use them. They have spectacular restaurants in this hotel and their location right on Sukhumvit is a treat to shoppers and tourists as it is close to the happenings of Bangkok.
3. The Oriental
Nice river view room here as we are in the new wing of the hotel. The service here is impeccable. The room butlers we had were the best that I have ever encountered in all of my travels. The rooms weren’t as big as the 4 Seasons or the SGS but they were adequate. My only complaint here is being asked by the same doorman twice if I was a guest of the hotel. I was dressed appropriately each time in a collared polo shirt with long Dockers pants and dress shoes both times. The second time it happened I asked him to follow me to the manager at the desk and introduced myself to both of them as a registered guest of their hotel. Of course a lot of apologies were made but for that reason alone I don’t think we’ll be staying at the Oriental again. Beautiful hotel but I guess not for me.
4. The Marriott Resort And Spa Hotel
The only reason I’ve rated this hotel lower than the Oriental is that it is really not a 5 star hotel as some have suggested but that said for the price that they charge you and what you get this hotel is a very good bargain. It’s a beautiful oasis of a hotel located a 15 minute boat ride downstream of Bangkok. The rooms are large but don’t have the amenities and touches of the 5 star properties. The Breakfast buffets and the restaurants at the hotel are a notch down from the ones at the other 5 star properties. The pool area is a treat as it is huge and has a lot of shady areas, probably tied with the Four Seasons, IMHO as the best pool area of the lot. We loved our stay at the Marriott and would stay here again without hesitation.
I guess it is unfair to compare 4 and 5 star properties but that’s where we stayed this time so that’s what I’ve got to go on.
Restaurants
2 categories here Thai and Others
Others
1. biscotti – Italian
Located in the Four Seasons Hotel this still is our number one Restaurant in Bangkok. The food is again the greatest even though they have had an extensive menu redo since our last visit.
2. – Gianni Ristorante – Italian Again
34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 Tel: 0-2252-1619, 0-2652-2922
Very good Italian food as Gianni has been in Bangkok for 14 years with this restaurant. He moved to BKK 14 years ago after cooking in his hometown north of Venice. His cooking of course is of the Venetian seafood style and this place is very popular with the local crowd.
3. - Auberge Dab – French
1st flr, Mercury Twr, 540 Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330000Tel: 658-6222-3
Had a really nice romantic dinner here and the food wasn’t bad either.
Great location right off a skytrain exit.
Escargot are heaven. So is dessert which we witnessed some bkk residents (4 women) coming in and eating just that at the bar.
4 – Zanotti Ristorante Italiano
21/2 1st floor, Saladaeng Colonnade Condominium, Saladaeng Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel 66-2-636-0002
This place was packed and pumping when we got there on a Wednesday evening 7:30 pm. A little expensive for Bangkok standards but we were the only tourists in the place till a foursome emerged just before we left. The food was great. The same owner also owns a wine bar right across the street and the Pizzeria Limoncello next to the Q – Bar down Suk 11 across from The Bed.
4. Amici – Italian food in the Siam Paragon Mall G Level, can you tell I love Italian?
Had lunch here. Very extensive menu and very good food . The pastas were al dente. I had the lamb here which was excellent. They serve bottled water as soon as you sit and charge you 20 baht on your bill. Profiterole dessert is to die for.
5. All of the G Level in Siam Paragon Mall
You have got to see this level with all of the new restaurants and food courts and food malls along with the gourmet super food market this place is HUGE!
This is THE PLACE to get something to eat especially for lunch or a snack. You’ve got to see it to believe it. It is actually better than any food court I’ve seen anywhere is the U.S. Unbelievable!!
Oh and Laurieco they have a huge wine cellar next to the gourmet food market with a huge selection of imported wines (the prices were of course Bangkok high).
THAI
1. Basil
Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit, great Thai food with a beautiful setting makes for a very romantic dinner. This was some of the best Thai food we experienced this trip. They way the shrimp just danced on the sea of sauces were a sight to behold the atmosphere of this restaurant is really something. Glad we took Guenmai’s recommendation to come here. Will be on our list for a return engagement.
2. Inn Chaan in The Rose Garden outside of Bangkok
A beautiful newer restaurant on the grounds of the Rose Garden outside of Bangkok. Beautiful river views from 80% of the seats as almost all have a good view of the river which flows right past the property. The food is as good as the view. The cashew nut chicken was to die for. Ratt took us here one day on our journey thru Kanchanburi (sp) and it was the surprise of the day. Evidently, they have renovated recently and a lot of Thai people from Bangkok rent this area for weddings, anniversaries, big parties, etc. Ratt said they (her and Nick) rented it recently for Nick’s school reunion and it was a hit. Great place for a cheap, good meal!
3. Spice Market
Located in the Four Seasons Hotel. I don’t know why there is a bad review of this restaurant. I remember one complaint being that there where no local people in the place. Well…DUH!!! Four Seasons!!!!…local people ….really don’t mix too well. Put it this way, you won’t find many locals dining at restaurants in the FS.
IMHO the food is fabulous. Linda loves spicy and she was not disappointed. The waiters (locals)had such a blast with us that night that they let us taste a lot of their appetizers for free. When they got to the pepper leaves is when I got off. That leaf is sooooo hot. Anyway, great food and obviously we loved the friendly atmosphere.
4. Lan Na Thai
Located at Face Bar #29 Soi 38, Sukhumvit Road, Prukanong Klongtoey, Bangkok
Tel: 66-2-713 6048-49 www.facebars.com
I guess there has been a spate of complaints about the service here lately but when we ate there (3 times) for lunch, always around 13:30 pm the service was fantastic. We were the only ones there 2 out of 3 times. The other time there were 3 other couples. They had a host and waiter setup where we felt a little uncomfortable the first time as they give you the menu and never leave till you order meal. The food came in quick time and we never felt “alone” while we were there. The complaints must have worked you Fodorites have more power than you know.
Mar 29th, 2006, 11:14 AM
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Thanks for the first installment, HT! I'm making special notes about restaurant recommendations. I'm glad you liked LaNa Thai - we had the best Thai food of our last trip there. And I had put Basil on my list because of Guenmai's recommendation, but now it will have a star by it. Spice Market has gotten mixed reviews here. A couple of years ago we had a lunch there that had the "best dish of the trip" but the other things we ordered were just ok. Maybe we'll have to try it again.
Mar 29th, 2006, 06:02 PM
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fabulous start and all comments are right on imo....
your review of the marriott is perfect...i never know just how describe the difference for the true lux hotels....but for the money it is a steal, imo....
basil is on our list for nite 3, after harmonique and tongue thai...
i personally do not care all that much for spice market, but my wife loves it...
keep the thoughts coming---they are very valuable especially for non-bkk regulars, but for them too...
your review of the marriott is perfect...i never know just how describe the difference for the true lux hotels....but for the money it is a steal, imo....
basil is on our list for nite 3, after harmonique and tongue thai...
i personally do not care all that much for spice market, but my wife loves it...
keep the thoughts coming---they are very valuable especially for non-bkk regulars, but for them too...
Mar 30th, 2006, 11:35 AM
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continued
SPAS
We went to several different spas while in Bangkok. Here is our list
1. Face Spa – Our favorite. In 11 days and nights in Bangkok we went here for four days. So convenient, right off the sky train, 2 to 3 hour sessions for 2 people and cost around 100 US, unbelievable. I could live here. They said that the spa only opened about a year ago and the restaurants opened about two years ago. The restaurants are doing fine but the spa needs more business. I’m sure that business won’t be slow for long as they are fantastic. Give it a try. Did I mention that this place is cheap?
2. The Mandara Spa at the Four Seasons. Had a 90 minute massage with body scrub. Beautiful suites where the work on you with private showers, soaking tubs, relaxing areas, etc. but the prices were out of this world.
3. The Mandara Spa at the Marriott Resort & Spa.
Really nice Spa facilities here in a separate little building back by the garage area. Large treatment rooms with full line of treatments. Loved our treatments here and the pricing was a little better as I guess the figured they are not in the popular area.
4. Spa on the 9th
Called this spa with the number in the Bangkok English phone book a number of times during our Bangkok stay and no one ever answered the phone. We even had the concierge at the 4 Seasons try and contact them to no avail. Lcuy I hope we just got the wrong numbers but if not I guess they are closed.
Commentary and other stuff not aforementioned:
Here’s the part where I ramble on and mention info I forgot to mention in the above lists:
Regarding Ratt…..We hired Ratt for six airport pickups and drop offs plus one full 14 hour day and requested she be the one to drive on the 14 hour day. I emailed her my itinerary with my pickups and drops plus which car we would require each time as sometimes we needed her van service while others would only require her sedan service.
Also I gave her an itinerary of where we needed to go on our 14 hour day and asked her for any suggestions on where to buy some fine china.
She and her service of drivers were always there, never late. Ratt told me she now has 17 drivers and guides on her staff which includes her husband Nick. She is aware of the trouble she has had with her scheduling but insists now that it is a thing of the past as her business now grows. She has also employed a scheduler as doing this was what was getting here confused as her English is not up to par and answering all the emails in three different languages after a long day was getting too confusing for her….so she says.
This time around we met:
Nick great guy with a good sense of humor and Ratt’s husband,
Mr. Nop – What a character this guy is. He loves everything American and can name the last 20 US Presidents for you (he did). Looks and dresses like an Asian Elvis and has a heart of gold. Loves to watch American movies and sees everyone he can see in Bangkok. Wants to go to California one day.
Mr. Wong – The driver who has a van for airport pickups and drops –will always call you the night before to confirm pickup times. He is so quiet unless spoken to but very helpful with your bags and doors being opened and such.
I purposely used Ratt’s service so many times to see if she was still reliable. Her business practices have been questioned lately and rightly so. If my little test proves anything it may be that she is still reliable or I am just a sucker for a success story. There are cheaper ways to get to and from the airport and I’ll probably do it that way the next time to save some coin but if I need a good driver or a tour guide I know I can always count on Ratt Service.
We also met Da at the Cotton House. She mentioned that Gloria friends where dropping by her shop almost every day. She did a wonderful job on some blouses and tops for Linda and gave us a great price to boot. Thanks Gloria for the tip.
While we were staying at the Marriott we dropped by to see Jack at Monet Il Sarto. What a character this guy is. Great personality with two turtles walking around the shop. Mentioned that “Bob sent us” and in no time was fitted for 6 shirts in the design of shirt which I had brought and a cashmere dinner jacket. He charged 80 dollars US for the 6 shirts and gave us 15% off because we knew somebody special. He also charged me 165.00 US less 15% for the jacket. I went back for two fittings and am completely satisfied with his work. He also delivered everything to us later while we were at the Four Seasons. Thanks Bob for the recommendation!
We also made our deposit…oh I mean visit to SJ Intl. Lily smiled as she greeted us this time saying “your Kathie’s friends from Hawaii aren’t you, I remember you from last year”. It’s so nice to be recognized. Well Lily will now remember us, I think we guaranteed that. Mahalo as always Kathie for your recommendation!
More to follow….I know emd I’m trying..got a lot of Kyoto dining coming up!
Aloha!
SPAS
We went to several different spas while in Bangkok. Here is our list
1. Face Spa – Our favorite. In 11 days and nights in Bangkok we went here for four days. So convenient, right off the sky train, 2 to 3 hour sessions for 2 people and cost around 100 US, unbelievable. I could live here. They said that the spa only opened about a year ago and the restaurants opened about two years ago. The restaurants are doing fine but the spa needs more business. I’m sure that business won’t be slow for long as they are fantastic. Give it a try. Did I mention that this place is cheap?
2. The Mandara Spa at the Four Seasons. Had a 90 minute massage with body scrub. Beautiful suites where the work on you with private showers, soaking tubs, relaxing areas, etc. but the prices were out of this world.
3. The Mandara Spa at the Marriott Resort & Spa.
Really nice Spa facilities here in a separate little building back by the garage area. Large treatment rooms with full line of treatments. Loved our treatments here and the pricing was a little better as I guess the figured they are not in the popular area.
4. Spa on the 9th
Called this spa with the number in the Bangkok English phone book a number of times during our Bangkok stay and no one ever answered the phone. We even had the concierge at the 4 Seasons try and contact them to no avail. Lcuy I hope we just got the wrong numbers but if not I guess they are closed.
Commentary and other stuff not aforementioned:
Here’s the part where I ramble on and mention info I forgot to mention in the above lists:
Regarding Ratt…..We hired Ratt for six airport pickups and drop offs plus one full 14 hour day and requested she be the one to drive on the 14 hour day. I emailed her my itinerary with my pickups and drops plus which car we would require each time as sometimes we needed her van service while others would only require her sedan service.
Also I gave her an itinerary of where we needed to go on our 14 hour day and asked her for any suggestions on where to buy some fine china.
She and her service of drivers were always there, never late. Ratt told me she now has 17 drivers and guides on her staff which includes her husband Nick. She is aware of the trouble she has had with her scheduling but insists now that it is a thing of the past as her business now grows. She has also employed a scheduler as doing this was what was getting here confused as her English is not up to par and answering all the emails in three different languages after a long day was getting too confusing for her….so she says.
This time around we met:
Nick great guy with a good sense of humor and Ratt’s husband,
Mr. Nop – What a character this guy is. He loves everything American and can name the last 20 US Presidents for you (he did). Looks and dresses like an Asian Elvis and has a heart of gold. Loves to watch American movies and sees everyone he can see in Bangkok. Wants to go to California one day.
Mr. Wong – The driver who has a van for airport pickups and drops –will always call you the night before to confirm pickup times. He is so quiet unless spoken to but very helpful with your bags and doors being opened and such.
I purposely used Ratt’s service so many times to see if she was still reliable. Her business practices have been questioned lately and rightly so. If my little test proves anything it may be that she is still reliable or I am just a sucker for a success story. There are cheaper ways to get to and from the airport and I’ll probably do it that way the next time to save some coin but if I need a good driver or a tour guide I know I can always count on Ratt Service.
We also met Da at the Cotton House. She mentioned that Gloria friends where dropping by her shop almost every day. She did a wonderful job on some blouses and tops for Linda and gave us a great price to boot. Thanks Gloria for the tip.
While we were staying at the Marriott we dropped by to see Jack at Monet Il Sarto. What a character this guy is. Great personality with two turtles walking around the shop. Mentioned that “Bob sent us” and in no time was fitted for 6 shirts in the design of shirt which I had brought and a cashmere dinner jacket. He charged 80 dollars US for the 6 shirts and gave us 15% off because we knew somebody special. He also charged me 165.00 US less 15% for the jacket. I went back for two fittings and am completely satisfied with his work. He also delivered everything to us later while we were at the Four Seasons. Thanks Bob for the recommendation!
We also made our deposit…oh I mean visit to SJ Intl. Lily smiled as she greeted us this time saying “your Kathie’s friends from Hawaii aren’t you, I remember you from last year”. It’s so nice to be recognized. Well Lily will now remember us, I think we guaranteed that. Mahalo as always Kathie for your recommendation!
More to follow….I know emd I’m trying..got a lot of Kyoto dining coming up!
Aloha!
Mar 30th, 2006, 07:00 PM
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great report....anxious to read more....glad jack was able to help you...he is a character, but a nice one...his work is reliable i find...his prices are reasonable but not of the type where you get 6 suits, 9 shirts, 3 ties and a pair of shoes for $179 in 12 hours flat...
Mar 31st, 2006, 06:44 PM
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hawaii, thansk for the second installment. I have 6 more days before I leave. I know you'll give me a little japan before I sail.
I got my trip notebooks done, and just reconfirmed all the reservations today. Now I just want to go.
I got my trip notebooks done, and just reconfirmed all the reservations today. Now I just want to go.
Apr 3rd, 2006, 01:04 PM
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Tokyo Kyoto & Nara
Again we are struck by the cleanliness of Japan as compared to where we have just come from. The air, water, and the streets, everything seems more wholesome here.
We landed after a six and a half hour 6:40 am BKK to NRT United Air flight in upgraded business class without much incident. When we got to immigrations I was cringing as the last time it took us almost 2 hours to clear thru as so many flights had arrived at the same time. We were lucky this time as we were the first ones there. Ten minutes later and I was buying my Limousine Bus ticket to the Century Hyatt in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Paid 3,000 yen each (cash only taken) for two tickets at the Airport Limousine Bus ticket window located in the lobby just after you exit the customs doors. The bus ride took 95 minutes and we were at the hotel before we knew it. I noticed that the line for foreign currency exchange was about 15 people long so I was glad that I had a few thousand yen on me as I had gotten some before I left home this time. The load and unload your bags for you so this was a relief as we had 5 large bags with 2 hand carries with us.
The Century Hyatt is located a couple of blocks from the Shinjuku Station and right close to a lot of restaurant and shopping streets in Shinjuku. The Hilton is right across the street and is equally well located. We stayed on the Regency Club rooms this time so breakfast and afternoon cocktails were included. They also served heavy snacks in the evening so dinner was almost not required.
We did go to dinner 3 out of 4 nights in Tokyo, we dined at:
1. Restaurant Le Coup Chou – 1-15-7 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Opened 5:30 to 12:00 am Ph# 3348-1610
A little French restaurant with French and Japanese Menus only. No English menus but with my limited French and the head waiter who spoke some English we got through with little problem. The food here was fantastic. So good in fact that we went here 2 out of 3 dinners we ate in Tokyo. The Japanese owner, chef had trained in France for a few years and came home to open his own place. Has a really nice French influenced wine list. Gets really crowded after 8 pm so try to get there early or call for a reservation. Has a another little room downstairs with 6 tables which they use for there overflow which seems to happen nightly (though we were only there on 2 occasions we walked past the place nightly).
2. New York Grill – On the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku Tel# 03/5322-1234
This is supposed to be the place to have dinner in Shinjuku. Reservations are required. Beautiful views from the 52 nd floor with prices to match. They have set dinners or you can order of the menu. The main entrees all started at over 40 US each (gulp). Set dinners were in the 150-225 US range (gulp/gulp). The food was excellent but not worth the splurge IMHO.
3. We also ate in various ramen and udon noodle houses that frequent the area(my favorite 295 is still there). I loved these places as cheap and delicious meals which we truly enjoyed.
Trains and Subways
They don’t take visa or master card credit cards in Shinjuku or Tokyo Stations from American banks. I had read this before on another forum and it happened to me. We tried in vain to pay for shinkansen tickets at both the Shinjuku and Tokyo stations and our all of our cards were rejected. We stood back at the Tokyo station and watched as Japanese citizens with cc’s were passed thru by their machines constantly but once a tourist would come by it was rejection same as we were. I tried all 3 cc’s I was carrying with me and all should have worked but none of them did in these stations. We went outside and purchased merchandise with these cards immediately after the incidents so we know they weren’t being rejected. The credit limit on the cards was nowhere near any limits so we couldn’t figure it out. I think the guy behind the window was trying to tell me that my card wouldn’t work before he even tried it but I couldn’t be sure because I couldn’t understand what he was saying in his broken Japanese and English. I later had to walk out of the train station to a post office about 300 yds away to get cash from an atm (using the same card that was rejected) and pay for the tickets that way. I should have just taken cash in the first place.
We bought subway rides from the machines in 1000 yen cards. We found this easier than always fumbling for change and continually buying tickets.
More a little later…back to work...sorry did not edit this part.
Aloha!
Again we are struck by the cleanliness of Japan as compared to where we have just come from. The air, water, and the streets, everything seems more wholesome here.
We landed after a six and a half hour 6:40 am BKK to NRT United Air flight in upgraded business class without much incident. When we got to immigrations I was cringing as the last time it took us almost 2 hours to clear thru as so many flights had arrived at the same time. We were lucky this time as we were the first ones there. Ten minutes later and I was buying my Limousine Bus ticket to the Century Hyatt in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Paid 3,000 yen each (cash only taken) for two tickets at the Airport Limousine Bus ticket window located in the lobby just after you exit the customs doors. The bus ride took 95 minutes and we were at the hotel before we knew it. I noticed that the line for foreign currency exchange was about 15 people long so I was glad that I had a few thousand yen on me as I had gotten some before I left home this time. The load and unload your bags for you so this was a relief as we had 5 large bags with 2 hand carries with us.
The Century Hyatt is located a couple of blocks from the Shinjuku Station and right close to a lot of restaurant and shopping streets in Shinjuku. The Hilton is right across the street and is equally well located. We stayed on the Regency Club rooms this time so breakfast and afternoon cocktails were included. They also served heavy snacks in the evening so dinner was almost not required.
We did go to dinner 3 out of 4 nights in Tokyo, we dined at:
1. Restaurant Le Coup Chou – 1-15-7 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Opened 5:30 to 12:00 am Ph# 3348-1610
A little French restaurant with French and Japanese Menus only. No English menus but with my limited French and the head waiter who spoke some English we got through with little problem. The food here was fantastic. So good in fact that we went here 2 out of 3 dinners we ate in Tokyo. The Japanese owner, chef had trained in France for a few years and came home to open his own place. Has a really nice French influenced wine list. Gets really crowded after 8 pm so try to get there early or call for a reservation. Has a another little room downstairs with 6 tables which they use for there overflow which seems to happen nightly (though we were only there on 2 occasions we walked past the place nightly).
2. New York Grill – On the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku Tel# 03/5322-1234
This is supposed to be the place to have dinner in Shinjuku. Reservations are required. Beautiful views from the 52 nd floor with prices to match. They have set dinners or you can order of the menu. The main entrees all started at over 40 US each (gulp). Set dinners were in the 150-225 US range (gulp/gulp). The food was excellent but not worth the splurge IMHO.
3. We also ate in various ramen and udon noodle houses that frequent the area(my favorite 295 is still there). I loved these places as cheap and delicious meals which we truly enjoyed.
Trains and Subways
They don’t take visa or master card credit cards in Shinjuku or Tokyo Stations from American banks. I had read this before on another forum and it happened to me. We tried in vain to pay for shinkansen tickets at both the Shinjuku and Tokyo stations and our all of our cards were rejected. We stood back at the Tokyo station and watched as Japanese citizens with cc’s were passed thru by their machines constantly but once a tourist would come by it was rejection same as we were. I tried all 3 cc’s I was carrying with me and all should have worked but none of them did in these stations. We went outside and purchased merchandise with these cards immediately after the incidents so we know they weren’t being rejected. The credit limit on the cards was nowhere near any limits so we couldn’t figure it out. I think the guy behind the window was trying to tell me that my card wouldn’t work before he even tried it but I couldn’t be sure because I couldn’t understand what he was saying in his broken Japanese and English. I later had to walk out of the train station to a post office about 300 yds away to get cash from an atm (using the same card that was rejected) and pay for the tickets that way. I should have just taken cash in the first place.
We bought subway rides from the machines in 1000 yen cards. We found this easier than always fumbling for change and continually buying tickets.
More a little later…back to work...sorry did not edit this part.
Aloha!
Apr 5th, 2006, 12:23 PM
#15
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Cont:
We also went to Disney Sea one day. We took the JR Chuo express to Tokyo station and transferred trains to the Maihama station where the Disney properties are located I liked this place better than the Magic Kingdom that we went to last year. It is located right on the ocean and the day we went was windy, rainy and cold. Dress appropriately for the weather. The rides are better in the MK for now, but TOT is coming soon. The landscaping and food is better in DS, IMHO.
We left Tokyo for Kyoto via the Shinkansen. We caught a Nozomi out or Tokyo station and were in Kyoto station about 2 ½ hours later. Mt. Fuji was partially obscured from view as we passed by (shucks). I forgot to mention that our last morning in Tokyo we had a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji from our corner room at the Century Hyatt. In fact the whole mountain range was in view from our room.
We arrived at Kyoto Station on time and checked into the Hotel Granvia which is located at the Kyoto Train station. We couldn’t have been happier with our room at the Granvia. The Granvia is a nice modern hotel with all the conveniences. I think mrwunfl suggested that we not get the cheapest rooms but the category just above them. Glad we took that suggestion as we had a beautiful King room on the 12 th floor with a gorgeous view of Kyoto. Large rooms and bathrooms for Japan. In and around the hotel with the train station included we counted over 115 restaurants to eat in. Everything from Japanese Kaiseki, Italian, Indian, French, Vegetarian, and Chinese….I mean everything. With the 12 story Isetan connected to the train station and the huge Portal Mall stores located underground in and around the station you could stay there a few days and not see it all. I know, we were there for 5 nights. All forms of transportation emanate from the front of the train station i.e. bus, taxi with the subway stops below. The stores in “The Cube” are great for visiting just before you leave Koto if you are interested in taking home edible Japanese foods as they have anything from sembei to all varieties pickled tsukemono and about every packaged Japanese foods available, amazing place.
We also visited all of the major temples and castles in Kyoto. We used the bus system a lot as they went to all the major sights, were cheap and always took us back to the station as all busses turn around at the station. We bought the 2000 yen card which can be used on all buses and subway trains throughout Kyoto at the bus info located right in front of the train station.
We shopped till we dropped on the Shoji, Kawaramachi Dori areas….what a place. And ate at some of the best restaurants in the Gion area at nights. Here are some of the places we ate at.
1. Manyoken 48-Motoyoshi-cho, Yamato Ouiji Shinbashi, Kyoto Ph# 075/525-5101
This French restaurant is in the middle of the Gion district and all of the geisha houses. We had the hotel concierge make the reservations as when I called no one spoke English. They also wrote down the directions in Japanese for the taxi driver for me. The taxi driver got us to the right street but had to get out of the car in those small Gion streets to ask which address ours was, pretty funny but he got us right up to the front door. Reservations are a must here. Fantastic food, great ambiance as the building is a rebuilt 18th century home. A little pricey but we will return when we return to Kyoto.
2. Misono TSC Tower, 5th floor, Takoyakushi, Kawaramachi Ph# 075/255-2981
Teppanyaki style Kobe steak is what the specialty is here and the reasons we went here. I’ve never had real Kobe steak and all I can say is WOW. It’s like butter! Unreal, best steak I have ever had. The cooks cook in front of you ala Benihana or the Kobe steakhouses(actually Misono is the original that these two chains tried to copy) but without all of the theatrics. They don’t need them the food speaks for itself.
3. Izusen Vegetarian/Kaieki Japanese
Surugaiya Building 2nd floor, Karasuma Shichijo Dori-sagaru Tel# 075/343-4211
We went here on the concierge’s recommendation and were glad we did. Although it is located in a non descript building this places food was great and cheap. I think the best “Japanese” food we had on this trip. Set meals, and they had an English menu along with a lot of pictures. Highly recommend this place. They don’t take cc but it was pretty cheap anyway as we went for lunch.
More later today
We also went to Disney Sea one day. We took the JR Chuo express to Tokyo station and transferred trains to the Maihama station where the Disney properties are located I liked this place better than the Magic Kingdom that we went to last year. It is located right on the ocean and the day we went was windy, rainy and cold. Dress appropriately for the weather. The rides are better in the MK for now, but TOT is coming soon. The landscaping and food is better in DS, IMHO.
We left Tokyo for Kyoto via the Shinkansen. We caught a Nozomi out or Tokyo station and were in Kyoto station about 2 ½ hours later. Mt. Fuji was partially obscured from view as we passed by (shucks). I forgot to mention that our last morning in Tokyo we had a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji from our corner room at the Century Hyatt. In fact the whole mountain range was in view from our room.
We arrived at Kyoto Station on time and checked into the Hotel Granvia which is located at the Kyoto Train station. We couldn’t have been happier with our room at the Granvia. The Granvia is a nice modern hotel with all the conveniences. I think mrwunfl suggested that we not get the cheapest rooms but the category just above them. Glad we took that suggestion as we had a beautiful King room on the 12 th floor with a gorgeous view of Kyoto. Large rooms and bathrooms for Japan. In and around the hotel with the train station included we counted over 115 restaurants to eat in. Everything from Japanese Kaiseki, Italian, Indian, French, Vegetarian, and Chinese….I mean everything. With the 12 story Isetan connected to the train station and the huge Portal Mall stores located underground in and around the station you could stay there a few days and not see it all. I know, we were there for 5 nights. All forms of transportation emanate from the front of the train station i.e. bus, taxi with the subway stops below. The stores in “The Cube” are great for visiting just before you leave Koto if you are interested in taking home edible Japanese foods as they have anything from sembei to all varieties pickled tsukemono and about every packaged Japanese foods available, amazing place.
We also visited all of the major temples and castles in Kyoto. We used the bus system a lot as they went to all the major sights, were cheap and always took us back to the station as all busses turn around at the station. We bought the 2000 yen card which can be used on all buses and subway trains throughout Kyoto at the bus info located right in front of the train station.
We shopped till we dropped on the Shoji, Kawaramachi Dori areas….what a place. And ate at some of the best restaurants in the Gion area at nights. Here are some of the places we ate at.
1. Manyoken 48-Motoyoshi-cho, Yamato Ouiji Shinbashi, Kyoto Ph# 075/525-5101
This French restaurant is in the middle of the Gion district and all of the geisha houses. We had the hotel concierge make the reservations as when I called no one spoke English. They also wrote down the directions in Japanese for the taxi driver for me. The taxi driver got us to the right street but had to get out of the car in those small Gion streets to ask which address ours was, pretty funny but he got us right up to the front door. Reservations are a must here. Fantastic food, great ambiance as the building is a rebuilt 18th century home. A little pricey but we will return when we return to Kyoto.
2. Misono TSC Tower, 5th floor, Takoyakushi, Kawaramachi Ph# 075/255-2981
Teppanyaki style Kobe steak is what the specialty is here and the reasons we went here. I’ve never had real Kobe steak and all I can say is WOW. It’s like butter! Unreal, best steak I have ever had. The cooks cook in front of you ala Benihana or the Kobe steakhouses(actually Misono is the original that these two chains tried to copy) but without all of the theatrics. They don’t need them the food speaks for itself.
3. Izusen Vegetarian/Kaieki Japanese
Surugaiya Building 2nd floor, Karasuma Shichijo Dori-sagaru Tel# 075/343-4211
We went here on the concierge’s recommendation and were glad we did. Although it is located in a non descript building this places food was great and cheap. I think the best “Japanese” food we had on this trip. Set meals, and they had an English menu along with a lot of pictures. Highly recommend this place. They don’t take cc but it was pretty cheap anyway as we went for lunch.
More later today
Apr 5th, 2006, 02:16 PM
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Oh...forgot to mention that the day before we left Tokyo for Kyoto we sent 4 large suitecases via the delivery service(Yamato) which we asked the belldesk in our hotel to arrainge for us. Very easy as the bell people pick up your bags from the room, weigh and tag, label and send off for you. Great, I thought....WRONG. When we got to the hotel 1 bag was missing. Turned out it was still at the transfer office in Tokyo, luckily we were there for 5 days as they sent it to us the next morning bad part was it was my wife's bag with all her clothes so she had no fresh clothes the first day. So for all of you who are thinking of sending your bags to the airport I would think twice as this may not be the norm but be aware that it DOES happen. The bell desk at the Granvia did not seem suprised that the bag was not there and said that it doesn't happen often but it does happen. If it were to happen that when you get to the airport that one of your bags were still in Kyoto or where ever ....what would you do?
Aloha!
Aloha!
Apr 5th, 2006, 05:39 PM
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Kyoto restaurants continued:
4. La Fleur
15th floor of the Hotel Granvia Kyoto Tel# 075/344/8888
The French Restaurant of the hotel. Very good menu but only in French and Japanese. No English menu but our waiter spoke English and told us what everything was. Food was very good, the menu consisted of many fish, lobster and shellfish dishes along with lamb and chicken entrees. You can also order set dinners which is what we did. It’s the more expensive option but you get so much more food
. They also have a million dollar view of Kyoto and the city lights at night. The atmosphere is romantically French and so are the prices. We really enjoyed this place.
5. A little Ramen shop located on Marutamachi Dori just west of Ogawa Dori on the south side of the street. Look for the line of people. The sign was in Japanese only so don’t know the name.
We were walking this neighborhood for no particular reason when we happened upon a line of people waiting to get into this little noodle shop. Everyone outside was staring thru the front window at something so being the nosy tourist that I am I looked in too. What I saw was FIRE!
What was happening was that on the counter area only, they serve a special ramen which they put burning oil onto and start a huge fire in right your soup bowl. They cover everyone on the counter with body size napkins and the cash register with a cloth. There are only nine seats at the counter so that’s all they can onto it fit to do this dish. You’ve got to see this…it’s a blast. The owner goes around the restaurant taking your picture eating your ramen with all the locals’ cell phones as it seems every Japanese person has a cell phone with a camera. There are also six or seven tables which is where we sat. The owner is a character and speaks a little English. There is no English menu but they have picture menus. We had a blast here and the ramen was pretty good too.
4. La Fleur
15th floor of the Hotel Granvia Kyoto Tel# 075/344/8888
The French Restaurant of the hotel. Very good menu but only in French and Japanese. No English menu but our waiter spoke English and told us what everything was. Food was very good, the menu consisted of many fish, lobster and shellfish dishes along with lamb and chicken entrees. You can also order set dinners which is what we did. It’s the more expensive option but you get so much more food
. They also have a million dollar view of Kyoto and the city lights at night. The atmosphere is romantically French and so are the prices. We really enjoyed this place.5. A little Ramen shop located on Marutamachi Dori just west of Ogawa Dori on the south side of the street. Look for the line of people. The sign was in Japanese only so don’t know the name.
We were walking this neighborhood for no particular reason when we happened upon a line of people waiting to get into this little noodle shop. Everyone outside was staring thru the front window at something so being the nosy tourist that I am I looked in too. What I saw was FIRE!
What was happening was that on the counter area only, they serve a special ramen which they put burning oil onto and start a huge fire in right your soup bowl. They cover everyone on the counter with body size napkins and the cash register with a cloth. There are only nine seats at the counter so that’s all they can onto it fit to do this dish. You’ve got to see this…it’s a blast. The owner goes around the restaurant taking your picture eating your ramen with all the locals’ cell phones as it seems every Japanese person has a cell phone with a camera. There are also six or seven tables which is where we sat. The owner is a character and speaks a little English. There is no English menu but they have picture menus. We had a blast here and the ramen was pretty good too.
Apr 5th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Oooo, big big bummer re the suitcase. I sent my luggage a few days ahead last time to Narita for this reason (sent it on Wed. for an early Sat. a.m. departure.) and will do the same this time, although this is the first time I have ever read of a bag not arriving w/the others.
