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Kristina's Thailand Trip Report-Nine Days of Fun and Food; Sun and Scuba, Cooking Class and Culinary (Mis)adventures

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Kristina's Thailand Trip Report-Nine Days of Fun and Food; Sun and Scuba, Cooking Class and Culinary (Mis)adventures

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Old May 6th, 2006, 09:31 AM
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Why can't you can't call Germans "Germs", like "Brits"?
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Old May 6th, 2006, 07:24 PM
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I put a message out to Bob re wanting some information on a different thread and it isn't on so maybe it was me.Can't see what the problem would have been though.
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Old May 6th, 2006, 08:04 PM
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BTW great report and photos.
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Old May 7th, 2006, 12:51 PM
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Today is the day I've set up for us to do a cooking class in Phuket town. I've worked in the restaurant industry for over 16 years, the first half of which I was a professional chef. So, I like to take cooking classes when we travel as a way to do something different and get to know a little bit more about the culture. Even though I frequently cook Thai food at home, I'm always looking to learn something new.

I've booked a cooking class at "Pat's Home", a B&B and cooking school in Phuket Town. Pat and I corresponded via email before we left and because our hotel is so far away, she's set up a taxi to come pick us up at 8:00 AM so we can be there by 9 AM. Around ten to nine, we go up to the lobby area to wait for the driver. By 8:15, I'm starting to get nervous and at 8:25 I call Pat. She says the driver made a mistake and picked up the wrong people; he will be there "in 10 minutes". I tell her we might want to cancel because we don't want to get there too late and delay the class. She assures me everything will be fine and asks me not to cancel.

The Taxi driver finally shows at almost 9 AM with the people he has picked up by mistake inside. Apparently the woman of the couple thought he said her name, not mine. They are very apologetic as they come in and have missed their trip to the Similan islands because of her mistake. From what we can tell, they made it halfway across the island before they realized they were going the wrong way.

The Taxi driver sets a land speed record to get us to Phuket Town by 9:45. Pat is genuinely welcoming when we arrive and the other 7 members of the class are understanding at our tardiness. We discover it really is a small world; when Pat lived in the US 18 years ago, she lived about a mile from where we live now.

The class is held in an open air pavilion on the outside of Pat's house. There are 5 cooking stations and everyone gets a chance to help cut, prep, and cook their own dishes. It's very professionally done with written recipes provided for us to keep (except for one or two) and Pat has three assistants to help her with the clean up as the class progresses (crucial to keep the class rolling).

We chop garlic, grind chilies and peanuts in a mortar and pestle, pluck basil leaves, and slice vegetables. We even squeeze freshly grated coconut to release the coconut cream for our curry. All the ingredients get prepped before the actual assembly and cooking begins. Then we move over to the woks and cook all the food for our lunch. When we are finished cooking, we sit down at a large, beautifully laid round table inside the house and feast on the food we made. Everyone gets to eat their own dishes; the assistants making sure nothing gets mixed up. In the end, we've made Pad Thai noodles, Som Tam salad, Red Curry with roasted chicken and grapes, chicken with cashews, and bananas in coconut milk.

This class would be a really good introduction for people who have never cooked Thai food before. If you've already taken classes elsewhere you might be bored, but you could try asking her to cover something different; had I known the menu ahead of time, I would have. The class is 1500 baht per person and an additional 800 baht for transportation.
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Old May 7th, 2006, 03:53 PM
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We get back to the hotel a little after 1:30 and spend the afternoon relaxing on the beach. There is drink service on the sand and we finally figure out what "happy hour" means here; two for one drinks. There's no explanation on the menu and I can't get the young woman who comes to take our order to explain it in a way I can understand. Happy hour is in the bar from 6 to 7 PM, but on the beach, it's from 2-3 PM. I learn this by default when I order a Pina Colada for David and an ice blended tropical juice for myself and four drinks arrive. Lucky us.

Dinner is in the Thai restaurant where I have the Spicy Beef Salad and again I am impressed with the flavor of the dish and the quality of the meat; it's excellent. David has Gnocchi with Gorgonzola from the Italian restaurant menu, also very good. The "Chocolate Pudding" for dessert turns out to be warm, gooey, chocolate bread pudding with a creme anglaise sauce. Our dinners have been averaging 1000-1300 baht total, about 25-35 USD which is high for Thailand, but not a lot for a luxury resort in general.

Photos from this day and the class are now on my website.
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Old May 7th, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Hello Kristina! I've really enjoyed your report! I'm anxiously awaiting to be in BKK and at the Andaman-leaving next sunday. We got an awesome deal at the Andaman, so knowing that the meals aren't that expensive really helps.

Pat's class is from 9:30-1pm? I will be taking a class with her, but not sure if I should take it in Phuket or in BKK at the bai pai. Great pictures!
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Old May 7th, 2006, 09:46 PM
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Belle-I'm sure you'll have a good time at the Andaman. The food there really is good.
I'd recommend Pat's class. I've taken a few cooking classes (and taught quite a few myself) and I think her's was professional, fun, and a good value. I can't compare it to your option in BKK however since I don't know anything about it. Did you mean that she also teaches in BKK or that you would do another class instead?
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Old May 7th, 2006, 10:32 PM
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There are also cooking classes held in Mom Tri's Boathouse in Phuket.These are held on a Saturday and Sunday. Lovely setting and I believe similar to Kristina's experience.This might be closer to you..it is opposite Kata Beach.
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Old May 8th, 2006, 07:09 AM
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Kristina- I meant taking a different class in BKK (that's what I get for typing fast and not proofreading).

albaaust- thanks for the rec. I will look into that one as well. Thanks.
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Old May 13th, 2006, 04:51 PM
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Andaman White Beach Resort:
Breakfasts here are still fantastic, everything homemade and fresh. We spend the morning packing up and wait for 11:30 AM departure for the airport. We try and spend an hour at the beach before we go, just to stretch out our time, but the time to leave comes quickly. By the way, the hotel offers internet access in a small air conditioned room below the reception area. The fee is 100 baht for a 1/2 hour, comes with a password and can be used repeatedly until all the minutes are used up. I manage to check email 4 times over 4 days with that one 1/2 hour and even have a few minutes left at the end which I give to our neighbor.

Songkran
Today is the beginning of Songkran (Thai New Year and a water-splashing festival) and it's in full force as we leave the hotel for the airport. There are children and entire families standing roadside waiting to spray our car with water. Truckloads of teens with 50 gallon barrels of water and water cannons go flying down the highway. We make it to the airport without incident.

There are no problems with Air Asia on the way back, except that it seemed to take forever to get our luggage on arrival. This time we got a real metered taxi from the queue and spent 340 baht to get to the Peninsula, including expressway tolls and a 30 baht tip to the driver. On the way we see lots of people on sidewalks and in the backs of trucks, dripping wet and covered in white paste, spraying each other with water canons.

The hotel is fully booked and they don't even offer opportunity for an upgrade which is fine. We ask about the possibility of a late checkout on Saturday since our flight does not leave until 6:40 PM. We're told there's no chance because the hotel is at 100% capacity through Easter Sunday. It makes me really glad I booked the room as far in advance as I did.
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Old May 13th, 2006, 05:50 PM
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Our room is a Grand Deluxe on the 33rd floor, #3308. It's a beautiful room, with my favorite bathroom ever. There are lots of nice touches; 110 and 220 volt plugs (one in dressing area, one in TV armoire), a comfortable sofa and coffee table in the sitting area. The view is spectacular. There are bottles of water (complimentary) in the bar area and one was later placed on sink for us in the bathroom after they noticed we used it to brush teeth. Ice at turndown service. The extra pillow I took from the closet was back on my side at turndown. When we checked in they asked our favorite paper and the delivered the IHT to our room 5 minutes after we arrived. There's a nice big desk next to the window with two desk chairs. The balcony rooms look larger on floor plan but appear to only have one window, a sliding glass door. I'd stick with the Grand Deluxe.

We decide to take the river boat up to Wat Arun for the sunset in hopes of getting some good photos and re-visiting this interesting place. It's been 6 years since I'd been there and 8 for David. On the way out of the hotel, we stop at the Concierge desk and have them make a reservation for us later that night at the China House across the way at the Oriental Hotel. We take the Pen's river boat across to the Taksin Pier and then catch the Chao Phraya Express Boat up to the Tha Thien pier (11 baht each). From there, we take a little flat roofed shuttle boat across the river to Wat Arun for 3 baht each.

Wat Arun is amazing as usual. The entire surface of the temple complex is covered in broken ceramics set in white plaster. From a distance, it's hard to grasp the amazing detail that went into the construction. We walk all around the outside before paying our 20 baht entrance fee. I love the tickets-they are a souvenir alone- note the admonishments on the back; "Please dress up politely", "Do not clime the rail" ,"Do not dangle any doll" (What??) , "Do not drop cigarette and waste on the floor".

At the entrance, I hear a woman speaking rapid fire Spanish with an (Thai?) accent. She's telling her tour group of Spanish speaking seniors to "hurry up, we're already late". It's so odd to hear Spanish spoken here, that I ask her (en espanol) where they are from, Spain, Mexico, or..? She looks at me, shocked, and answers, "Mexico" and asks where we are from. I reply, "the USA, California, but we all speak Spanish here too." She laughs and we move on our separate ways. We wind our way up and around the temple, admiring the demon faced statues, inset broken plates and cups, and the views of the river. The temple grounds are crowded with locals, because of the holiday I think and we see a Buddhist monk performing a ceremony in front of an alter built into a tree. Sitting among the devoted with her family, a local teenage girl talks on her cell phone while the monk chants.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 09:08 AM
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Ah, keep the report coming! I'm enjoying reading about your adventures.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 04:58 PM
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We just returned from a perfect, no-hassle trip to Thailand. We were in Bangkok (The Peninsula), Phuket (JW Marriott), Lanta (Pimalai Resort), and Chiang Mai (Yaang Come, Four Seasons, and Baan Orapin). It was varied, exotic, relaxing, exciting, and delightful in every way. Thailand is beautiful, and the best thing about it is the warm, fun-loving, intelligent people. If anyone needs info about the above, please post a note to me. We were traveling with eight people-four 58 to 63 year olds (two couples) and four college-age adults. All us fell in love with Thailand.

The metered taxis do give you the going rate as quoted by the person who manages the line. Our driver paid the tolls, but when my son was there, the driver asked him to pay the toll. It's a good idea to check to be sure the driver isn't looking for the opportunity to charge more. The metered taxis are definitely the best and safest way. They are closely monitored to prevent tourist problems that they used to have before they put in the metered taxis.

Good travel books have all the info you need along with warnings about pitfalls.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 06:19 PM
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Photos from Bangkok Day 3 are now on my website.

Day 3-Part 2


I had been looking forward to our dinner at China House for a long time after reading the glowing reviews about their Peking Duck on the Fodor's board. We arrived promptly at 8 PM, cleaned up and nicely dressed for our evening out (this is likely to be our "fanciest" meal of the trip after all). We are pleasantly greeted and taken to a small table for two inside the dining room to the left of the entrance. There are only two other tables with guests at this time.

We're asked if we'd like to order a cocktail, or, "perhaps champagne?". We look at the drink menu and suddenly I'm glad I hadn't said yes to the champagne; it's $25 a glass. When they come back for our drink order, David orders a Singapore Sling and I ask for bottled water. The server asks me again if I'd like a cocktail or champagne.
When it comes time to order food, we tell them we're there for the Peking Duck (just as one passes our table) so we order that along with a bowl of Hot and Sour Soup for David. It's clear that everyone else is here for the duck as well. During the hour and a half we are there, all six tables seated in the restaurant order the duck.

The duck arrives and it's beautifully presented, with crispy mahogany colored skin. The servers are well trained and carve the duck perfectly, serving just the skin with the little pancakes, a dab of hoisin sauce, and a little plate of scallions, cucumber and chilies. These pancakes are nice, savory packages and we devour them. Personally, I would have liked a little of the duck meat served in the pancakes as that's my preference. David agrees and we have no idea what's "traditional" as we've both had Peking Duck served with both skin and meat in the past.

After the skin is removed and served, the rest of the duck is returned to the kitchen to be prepared in a second dish. We choose the "black pepper garlic sauce" and it's shortly returned to us with rice and some steamed broccoli. While the sauce is tasty, I'm disappointed in the dish as a whole. The second cooking the has made the duck tough and flavorless. It could have been pork, or beef, or any kind of meat smothered in sauce. The total meal is about $75 (including 2 Singapore Slings, a beer, tax and service). As far as I can tell, I'm the only one who has not "loved" their experience at China House, so it could have just been an off night. I do know however, that I do prefer my duck cooked just once so that it's moist and flavorful and I wonder if they serve the second half of the Peking Duck in any other way which might be a better choice.

After dinner, we stroll back to the Oriental dock, wait but mere moments for the Peninsula's boat to appear, and glide back across the river for the night.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Kristine, I'm sorry to hear that the Peking Duck was a disappointment for you.

I have never seen Peking duck served with duck meat and the skin in the pancakes. As you know, the skin is carved carefully so that none of the fat adheres to it. Thus, it would take another carving, removing the fat first, to add a bit of duck to the pancakes.

Our second course of duck (in the same sauce as yours) was succulent. I'm sorry that yours was not.

By the way, for those wanting to know costs, a goodly portion of Kristina's dinner bill was for the two Singapore Slings. Wine and drinks are relatively expensive in Thailand. We had the Peking Duck, Jasmine Pearl tea, and shared a Fresh Mango Pudding for US$44.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 07:56 PM
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Kristina, I'm also sorry you weren't that happy with the Peking Duck since I'm one who has been singing it's praises. I have had it served with meat on the skin at a couple of other restaurants but it is not traditional and I don't think it's as good. But that is my preference. The second course of the duck, while I've never had any complaints about it at the China House, compared to the first course in the pancakes, well, it can't compare and is somewhat forgettable. Not that it's bad, it's just that I love the first course so much.
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Old May 17th, 2006, 08:38 PM
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Yes, I knew my review would be a disappointment to everyone. Sorry.
Since I know many others have had great experiences there, I assume it might have just been an "off night". It happens. And yes, absolutely, the drinks did add quite a bit to the final bill. I'm still glad I didn't say yes to the Champagne!

Kathie-you asked earlier which was my favorite duck of the trip, remember? I would have to say it was probably either the red curry at the Andaman White beach resort, or the curry on our last night in Bangkok at Baan Khanita (coming up next in the report).

Laurie-I agree, the second course really wasn't as "memorable" as the first. I just really, really, like duck, so to have it cooked beyond recognition and then smothered in sauce was a disappointment. I agree that the pancakes were lovely, both in presentation and taste.

I certainly wouldn't discourage anyone from going there, since I seem to be alone in my opinion. ;-)
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Old May 18th, 2006, 05:46 AM
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Kristina, I look forward to your report on the duck at Baan Khanita.

As a fellow duck conisseur, I should have mentioned to you a duck dish we had a Face last year. It was sti-fried slices of duck breast and probably more to your liking.
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Old Aug 26th, 2007, 06:52 PM
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Sorry to top this old thread, but I realized that if I'm going back in December I should finish my trip report and post the last day's photos!


If you're interested, the text and photos from the last day are here:

http://www.wired2theworld.com/THAILAND2006bangkok4.html

We visited the Aw Taw Kaw market, which is an outdoor (but covered) food market opposite the weekend market. Well worth a visit if you're facinated by food like I am.
We also had a wonderful meal at Baan Kranithita (?) (Kathie-best duck curry of the trip!).
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Old Aug 26th, 2007, 07:14 PM
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Thanks, Kristina, we'll have to put it on our list!
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