I'm considering staying overnight in Tsumago and I'm wondering if anyone has stayed there and done the hike to Magome. We're thinking about doing this on our way from Takayama to Tokyo (a very indirect route). The train/bus from Takayama to Tsumago is at least 3 1/2 hours, and I'm wondering if this is too much of a squeeze in my itinerary. Speaking of which... if you have any helpful comments, do let me know. Here it is:

May 6 Narita
May 7 - 13 Kyoto (with day trips to Miho museum, Nara, Ohara, Himeji -- based on comments I've read here. Thinking of overnight in Ohara if anyone has mid-range suggestions.)
May 14 Takayama
May 15 Shirakawago
May 16 Tsumago?
May 12 - 20 Tokyo

In Tokyo we'll visit the fish market, sumo wrestling and Sanjo Matsuri festival (has anyone seen it?) among other things. I note that the Aoi Matsuri festival is in Kyoto on the 15, and I'll be sorry to miss that since it looks lovely.

I welcome all comments and suggestions. Thanks.

An additional question on above: I read somewhere that the bus between Takayama and Kiso Valley is faster than the train. Does anyone know about this?

I think that you would probably be better off to go to Shirakawago first, then Takayama.

You could skip Takayama if you are planning to walk the Nakasendo. Or you could skip Tsumago (I haven't been there, but have read) if you stay in Takayama.

You could go to Kanazawa on the evening of the 13th and spend the night there. Then you could get a morning bus to Shirakawago. Have the whole day there and spend the night or continue on to Takayama for the night.

The bus from Takayama to Tsumago might be faster than the train. I think it depends on how much time you have for the connection from the limited express train from Takayama to the local that would go to, not Tsumago exactly, but Nakatsu-something.

You could use a 7-day JR Pass if your day trip to Himeji was on the 11th-13th. Also could use it for Nara at that time. And then Kyoto-Kanazawa, Takayama-Tokyo (allowing travel via Kiso valley but by train, not bus). And a day or two in Tokyo.

There are buses that go all the way from Shirakawago via Takayama to Nakatsu.. in Kiso Valley.

Nakatsugawa was the town I was referring to in the valley.

I have accommodation booked for Tokyo and Kyoto. I was going to leave the Takayama, Shirakawago and Tsumago open (depending on weather) and just book in at the last minute. Is this a mistake?

Bonjour GBL,

You should be OK leaving things open, the TIC (tourism info center) in Kyoto can help you book accomodations almost at the last minute.

Should be ok particularly because it is a mid-week stay. I would book it in Kyoto.

Thanks for the replies. I think the idea of going from Kyoto to Kanazawa is great, mrmunrfl. Only about 2 hours! What a fabulous train system. I think we'll get the 14 day train pass. I'm sure it will be worth it with Narita-Kyoto (plus side trips from Kyoto), then Kyoto - Kanazawa - Takayam - Kiso (yes, I think it's train to Gero then bus to Kiso) then back to Tokyo. Plus, the convenience is a bonus. I will try to book accommodation from Kyoto.

I've done the walk along the Nakasendo from Magome to Tsumago and it's fairly hard work and not that interesting if you have to hurry. I would recommend doing it only if you are able to stay overnight in Tsumago (I didn't).

Kamikochi, which is between Takayama and Matsumoto, has much more interesting scenery than the Kiso valley but lacks the historical element (unless you are interested in the history of mountaineering in Japan).

Is the train from Kanazawa to Takayama running again? I thought one still has to take a bus. BTW, I really enjoyed both Kanazawa and Takayama. I hope you will have at least 3 nights for these 2 places to be sure to be able to see some of each. Enjoy!

Yes, I think I have to take a bus from Kanazawa, not train. My husband thinks we're rushing things trying to include the Kiso Valley, so we may just spend an extra night in Takayama. If there's an onsen nearby, that might be more his speed... I admit, a night in a different town for three days may be cramming the cupboard, and there is something to be said for just soaking up the scenery.

kja, I think that you are referring to the train from Toyama to Takayama. I believe that it is still not running due to typhoon damage a few years ago. You can take the train from Kanazawa to Toyama and then get the bus that replaced the train (not sure if it is a JR bus) to Takayama.

I think skipping the Kiso Valley might be a good idea. There is an onsen at the Green Hotel in Takayama. There is also the Hirayu Onsen (I think that is the name) in the mountains enroute to Kamikochi. So Takayama, to Hirayu, to Kamikochi (for a very easy stroll along the river) to Matsumoto would be all by non-JR bus. Then a visit to Matsumoto castle. There is a JR limited express train from Matsumoto to Shinjuku where you connect to everywhere Tokyo.

Just south of Takayama is the fairly famous onsen town of Gero. The timing would be right for you as you will miss the weekend visitors from Nagoya. There are some nice onsen hotels, Japanaese tourist hotels with onsen baths. I stayed at one of these. There was a car and driver who met my train and took me to the hotel that was very close to the station. Had baths on the top of the hotel and also one or two on the ground floor including a rotenburo. Basic, small, tourist hotel room with the molded bathroom.

Am sure you could find a nice ryokan there.

Gero Onsen is on the JR line south from Takayama. So, it is on the rail route you would normally take to Tokyo.

Check the schedule, but I think Gero is only about an hour, maybe less, by train from Takayama.

Thanks, mrwunrfl, for the onsen suggestions. Two good options, and less complicated than Kiso. I think I read something about pottery near Gero too. Ah -- a new place to research.

We hiked the Kiso Valley last May (we stayed in Nagoya as one of our bases.) I posted a hike trip report here last year, but here's the body of the post in case you are still considering the hike.

We have just finished a day trip to the Kiso valley (staying in Nagoya) and wanted to give anyone interested some instructions for easily doing this day trip. We learned about the trip from this board, and consider it one of the highlights of our trip so far.

To get to the Kiso Valley, take the Shinano Express JR train. We took #3 at 8:00 am from Nagoya to the Nakatsugawa station, arriving 8:48 am. Our JR pass worked for this, and while we did not get reserved seats, we could have. Non-reserved car was #5 (non-smoking). This stop is closest to Magome, the starting point for the 5-mile (8k) hike. From the train station, exit and take the local bus at platform #3 to your left, heading to Magome. Ours left at 9:00 am and cost 540 yen each. The ride takes 30 minutes to Magome. For the bus, you take a ticket when you get on, and pay when you get off. Exact change makes this easy to do.

In Magome, the town has numerous inns, souvenir and food shops, and restaurants. Camera buff paradise! Since we got there around 9:30 am we simply started the hike (up the clearly visible path near the main intersection). You'll walk uphill for about one hour before crossing the Magome Pass in the forest and starting down towards Tsumago.

Aside from a few other hikers, we were the only ones on the trail - very peaceful with the stream and sound of water running nearby. There are a couple of waterfalls closer to Tsumago. It took about 3 hours to walk to Tsumago, which had many more people (and tour buses). The souvenir shops seemed to specialize in wood products - chopsticks, serving utensils and bowls.

If you are wondering about the trail, it is moderate in terrain with ups and downs, much of it under forest canopy. We are in good condition in our late 40s (living at 7000' elevation), and found it easy. Someone not in good shape would find it much more challenging, especially the first hour uphill.

We then took another bus at Parking lot #1 at 1:26 pm for 270 yen to the Nagiso JR Station (10 minute ride). From there, we had to wait an hour for the next Shinano Express train (#14) at 2:44 pm, but that was OK. The train back to Nagoya station took about an hour.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for your detailed information, CleoB. Leaving from Nagoya makes this a good daytrip. Were you tempted to stay overnight or was a walk through sufficient? Was Nagoya a good place to visit?