Keldar's Myanmar trip report
Mar 14th, 2007, 06:08 AM
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Between you and Craig, I have almost a book printed out of great times awaiting us in Myanmar this summer. Thank you for posting such a well-written and detailed report . . . and please keep it coming.
Thanks again,
Sandy (in Denton)
Thanks again,
Sandy (in Denton)
Mar 19th, 2007, 08:54 AM
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Hello all:
Sorry for the length of time between reports. Life has been keeping us busy this week.
So on we go to Kalaw. We departed Bagan very early and made a stop in Mandalay then on to Heho. We were met at the airport by a Santa Maria rep who directed us to a taxi driven by a very nice man who unfortunately had absolutely no English. We don't let this bother us at all. We told the rep that we had decided not to visit the Pindaya caves but instead to head straight for Kalaw and our hotel.
I am not very good in caves and I know we probably missed a good visit there but we don't regret the decision. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon enjoying our cottage at the Hilltop Villas and wandering around the town of Kalaw. It was nice to be able to visit the site of an old British hill station. The sight of Tudor style houses and colonial buildings is interesting to see in such an out of the way place. The drive to Kalaw took about 1 hour from Heho airport. We headed right to our hotel up in the hills overlooking Kalaw. The Hilltop Villas is quite a nice spot. The villas are actually cottages complete with a fireplace and porch overlooking the hills and town.We sat out on the porch and enjoyed the tranquility of the place. The staff at the hotel were very accommodating and were eager to assist in any way they could. The grounds at the hotel are lovely, a virtual miniature botanical gardens. The hotel has a bar, a restaurant and an outdoor terrace where you can sit with a drink and watch the sun set behind the purple hills surrounding the town.
At our request the hotel gladly contacted the guide who works for Santa Maria. He came right over and we worked out the arrangements with him for our trek to the hilltribe villages the next day.
Later we wandered down to the town of Kalaw and had a wonderful late lunch at Sam's Family Restaurant. The food was very! good and so cheap. The wonderful Burmese lentil soup was 600 kyat, mutton curry for Ron 800, potato and green bean curry for me 600, lots of rice; and we treated ourselves to a chocolate pancake each for 1000 kyat each. We got complimentary appetizers of shrimp chips and local green tea with sesame seeds. The total price each came to under $2.00 U.S each. The lady who cooked for us was so attentive and checked as we were eating each bowl of food to see if it was to our liking. She even gave me a small bowl of my own lentil soup for free so Ron didn't have to share his.
I would recommend this restaurant to anyone as long as you don't mind plain decor. The service was wonderful and the food even more so. A real gem of a place.
We wandered around the town, through the local street market and the shops. You could buy anything here from dried fish to pots and pans and everything in between. We picked up some more personal care items to have on us for any children we may meet the next day. Shampoo, soap, toothbrushes as well as some pens and other school supplies.
Our guide here in Kalaw was the best of them all. (and we had, had some good guides in people like Moe)
Jimmy knew the area inside out and was so kind and gentle and made sure we didn't go too fast. We are not in the best of shape anymore unfortunately and he took that into consideration. The trek we chose was a half day up and back which took us to a Palaung village. We departed at 8 a.m. and drove along the much in need of repair Yangon Road which I don't think has been repaired since the British left. It consists of a middle piece of pavement with potholes lining the sides. Heavy overladen trucks ply the roads and everyone has to move over when meeting oncoming traffic.
We left our driver at a starting point for the trek and he would wait for us at the end at a roadside restaurant for lunch. The walk was fairly easy but fascinating nonetheless. Jimmy pointed out farmers tending their crops of oranges, avocado, fig, pinepapple, tangerine,rice and other things. Everything is done by hand and it looks like darn hard work. We met people heading into the fields and they all stopped to chat and as we took photos they all wanted to see into the viewfinder and check out the photos. All sweet and gentle people. The women with their children on their backs or walking by their sides.
We made the trek up in about an hour and a half or so. It was quite beautiful and peaceful walking along the path watching the people, looking at the hills surrounding us and enjoying the silence.
We reached the village and were taken by Jimmy to a home to visit a family. We enjoyed tea and fruit with them. We watched the daughters weaving cloth on a loom, and we purchased some Shan bags and a few other trinkets. Then we walked around the village and had the great privelege of visiting the local school. Here we distributed our personal care items and were greeted like Father Christmas. You would have thought we had given out gold bars instead of toothbrushes, pens and shampoo to judge by the reaction of the children. It was humbling and gratifying and a definite highlight of our time in Myanmar.
The walk down was via a different route and we rejoined the driver at what we likened to a Truck stop with a difference. Our guide went into the kitchen and ordered some food that he thought we may like, then cooked it himself. He served us with fried rice, condiments, vegetables and soup. All very good and hot and welcoming.
Before we left our guide in Kalaw we requested that the driver make a stop at a pharmacy in where we loaded our guide up with antibiotics, antimalarials, bottles of eye drops for treating conjunctivitis etc. which would be taken back to the village the next day and given to someone to distribute as needed.
We included Kalaw in our itinerary after having done some research online and we are so glad we did. It is so different from most of the other places we visited in Myanmar .It was something I had read about from a few others on this site and it struck us as something we would love to do. The town has a backpacker feel to it which was interesting, but it retains it's close ties to the hill people who use the town as the market for their crops.
The choice of hotel was Santa Maria's and it was such a good one. We had time on our own and the day with the guide up into the hills.
So saying goodbye to our guide we headed with the same driver to Inle Lakeview Resort. The drive from Kalaw took two hours along the same bad road in the other direction. Past Heho airport and beyond. We paid our $3.00 U.S entry fee to the Inle Lake area and were at the hotel by late afternoon. Tomorrow out onto the Lake to visit the villages.
More soon.
Sorry for the length of time between reports. Life has been keeping us busy this week.
So on we go to Kalaw. We departed Bagan very early and made a stop in Mandalay then on to Heho. We were met at the airport by a Santa Maria rep who directed us to a taxi driven by a very nice man who unfortunately had absolutely no English. We don't let this bother us at all. We told the rep that we had decided not to visit the Pindaya caves but instead to head straight for Kalaw and our hotel.
I am not very good in caves and I know we probably missed a good visit there but we don't regret the decision. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon enjoying our cottage at the Hilltop Villas and wandering around the town of Kalaw. It was nice to be able to visit the site of an old British hill station. The sight of Tudor style houses and colonial buildings is interesting to see in such an out of the way place. The drive to Kalaw took about 1 hour from Heho airport. We headed right to our hotel up in the hills overlooking Kalaw. The Hilltop Villas is quite a nice spot. The villas are actually cottages complete with a fireplace and porch overlooking the hills and town.We sat out on the porch and enjoyed the tranquility of the place. The staff at the hotel were very accommodating and were eager to assist in any way they could. The grounds at the hotel are lovely, a virtual miniature botanical gardens. The hotel has a bar, a restaurant and an outdoor terrace where you can sit with a drink and watch the sun set behind the purple hills surrounding the town.
At our request the hotel gladly contacted the guide who works for Santa Maria. He came right over and we worked out the arrangements with him for our trek to the hilltribe villages the next day.
Later we wandered down to the town of Kalaw and had a wonderful late lunch at Sam's Family Restaurant. The food was very! good and so cheap. The wonderful Burmese lentil soup was 600 kyat, mutton curry for Ron 800, potato and green bean curry for me 600, lots of rice; and we treated ourselves to a chocolate pancake each for 1000 kyat each. We got complimentary appetizers of shrimp chips and local green tea with sesame seeds. The total price each came to under $2.00 U.S each. The lady who cooked for us was so attentive and checked as we were eating each bowl of food to see if it was to our liking. She even gave me a small bowl of my own lentil soup for free so Ron didn't have to share his.
I would recommend this restaurant to anyone as long as you don't mind plain decor. The service was wonderful and the food even more so. A real gem of a place.
We wandered around the town, through the local street market and the shops. You could buy anything here from dried fish to pots and pans and everything in between. We picked up some more personal care items to have on us for any children we may meet the next day. Shampoo, soap, toothbrushes as well as some pens and other school supplies.
Our guide here in Kalaw was the best of them all. (and we had, had some good guides in people like Moe)
Jimmy knew the area inside out and was so kind and gentle and made sure we didn't go too fast. We are not in the best of shape anymore unfortunately and he took that into consideration. The trek we chose was a half day up and back which took us to a Palaung village. We departed at 8 a.m. and drove along the much in need of repair Yangon Road which I don't think has been repaired since the British left. It consists of a middle piece of pavement with potholes lining the sides. Heavy overladen trucks ply the roads and everyone has to move over when meeting oncoming traffic.
We left our driver at a starting point for the trek and he would wait for us at the end at a roadside restaurant for lunch. The walk was fairly easy but fascinating nonetheless. Jimmy pointed out farmers tending their crops of oranges, avocado, fig, pinepapple, tangerine,rice and other things. Everything is done by hand and it looks like darn hard work. We met people heading into the fields and they all stopped to chat and as we took photos they all wanted to see into the viewfinder and check out the photos. All sweet and gentle people. The women with their children on their backs or walking by their sides.
We made the trek up in about an hour and a half or so. It was quite beautiful and peaceful walking along the path watching the people, looking at the hills surrounding us and enjoying the silence.
We reached the village and were taken by Jimmy to a home to visit a family. We enjoyed tea and fruit with them. We watched the daughters weaving cloth on a loom, and we purchased some Shan bags and a few other trinkets. Then we walked around the village and had the great privelege of visiting the local school. Here we distributed our personal care items and were greeted like Father Christmas. You would have thought we had given out gold bars instead of toothbrushes, pens and shampoo to judge by the reaction of the children. It was humbling and gratifying and a definite highlight of our time in Myanmar.
The walk down was via a different route and we rejoined the driver at what we likened to a Truck stop with a difference. Our guide went into the kitchen and ordered some food that he thought we may like, then cooked it himself. He served us with fried rice, condiments, vegetables and soup. All very good and hot and welcoming.
Before we left our guide in Kalaw we requested that the driver make a stop at a pharmacy in where we loaded our guide up with antibiotics, antimalarials, bottles of eye drops for treating conjunctivitis etc. which would be taken back to the village the next day and given to someone to distribute as needed.
We included Kalaw in our itinerary after having done some research online and we are so glad we did. It is so different from most of the other places we visited in Myanmar .It was something I had read about from a few others on this site and it struck us as something we would love to do. The town has a backpacker feel to it which was interesting, but it retains it's close ties to the hill people who use the town as the market for their crops.
The choice of hotel was Santa Maria's and it was such a good one. We had time on our own and the day with the guide up into the hills.
So saying goodbye to our guide we headed with the same driver to Inle Lakeview Resort. The drive from Kalaw took two hours along the same bad road in the other direction. Past Heho airport and beyond. We paid our $3.00 U.S entry fee to the Inle Lake area and were at the hotel by late afternoon. Tomorrow out onto the Lake to visit the villages.
More soon.
Mar 21st, 2007, 12:10 AM
#25
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So for the final chapter of a fabulous, eye opening, sobering, heart rending two weeks.
We arrived at the Inle Lakeview Resort hotel two hours after we left Kalaw by car. We were met at the front gate and our luggage was carried in for us. We checked into our lovely deluxe room on the second floor and opened our balcony doors to savour the lovely view of the lake and the hills in the distance. The first thing we did after enjoying the view from the balcony is hit the bar. A well made margarita had been on my mind and I found just that. The hotel, the bar, restaurant, rooms, everything here is lovely. We didn't check out the spa so I can't make any comments on it. I saw lots of guests heading there over the next few days so I think it is well used.
We enjoyed the meals at the Lakeview resort even though they were a bit expensive. The prices below are all in U.S $. Spaghetti carbonara $10.00, tomato and mozzarella salad $10.00, glass of house wine $5.00, Set menus (choice of Indian, thai, Burmese or European) at $15.00 and another european one at $30.00. There was a set 4 course meal at $38.00.There was also a gourmet meal but I didn't record the price unfortunately. Breakfast of course is included and it is very good. Fruit plate, juice, tea or coffee, toast, a basket of breads including croissants, chocolate pastries (yum), eggs, sausage, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, and toast if you want. All very delicious. The service in the restaurant could be a bit hit and miss as far as speed but you couldn't fault their determination to try hard to please. And those smiles are difficult to resist.
We wandered the town outside of the hotel the first afternoon we arrived and found it charming with a few restaurants for those who wanted a cheaper meal than the Lakeview offers and vendors selling handicrafts, water, soft drinks, cigarettes etc. We decided because of some stomach issues at this point to forego local meals unless necessary. Nothing too desperate just too much curry maybe?
The hotel as I said is very nice, the level of English spoken is very good generally but it does have a few things that need to be addressed. The TV stations did not include a movie station, which is something we had even at the hilltop village of Kalaw. While we don't travel to watch TV it is nice to watch a movie before bed. There is no pool which may be because of the lay of the land, and there is no way to make tea or coffee in your room. I can count on one hand the number of hotels I have stayed in over the years without a kettle or a coffee machine. Even 1 and 2 star hotels I have stayed in have this. I mentioned the lack of this amenity to the front desk and they found a kettle from somewhere and brought it to our room for our use during our stay. A nice touch of customer service. The room had lots of hot water which we had not had in some of the hotels. But when you see how the local people have to make do with washing everything in the nearest river or drawing and carrying water from the well down the street you just don't complain.
We were basically in Inle Lake with tours booked but no guide. This may or may not have been a mistake depending on who you talked to and how you look at it.
The hotel (reluctantly I'm afraid) called the local Santa Maria representative in Nyuang Shwe and relayed the message to us that our boat and driver would meet us at the dock at the hotel the next morning at 8:00a m. We headed down to the jetty after breakfast and found a boat with "Santa Maria Tours" on a board on the bow. The driver greeted us and although he spoke no English he was very resourceful in getting any message across to us. There was a guide waiting at the jetty who did speak English. He explained to us that this was our driver and we could get in the boat and he would take us around the lake today and tomorrow for our tours. We requested several things at that time and our driver fulfilled those wishes. During the next two days if our driver needed to get something across to us he simply asked someone wherever we happened to be to explain to us. If he wanted us to go some place in particular at a certain stop he would show us the way. Other than that he waited by the boat and we just did our own thing at our own speed. We met a couple from Denmark at the hotel who we regaled with our day's activities and our wonderment at the village of Indien which we felt was a highlight. They told us the next night that their English speaking guide refused to take them to Indien. she told them it was a few hours down river when it was really only 1/2 hour at most. They said having her as a guide stopped them from visiting the places they wanted to. Whereas we just showed our driver on the map the towns we wanted to visit and he took us to them.
Ron and I are pretty independent people and although a guide would have been nice to explain some of the things we were seeing we had our guide books which were pretty good at doing that job.
We asked the guide at the jetty the first morning to tell the driver that we did not want to visit too many temples or stupas. We had seen enough of these and now wanted to see life along the lake. The driver nodded knowingly when told this and we headed out on the most amazing boat trip ever. Just a warning that it is quite cool that time in the morning so take something to cover yourself with and a hat and sunscreen. We noticed some boats had blankets etc. but ours didn't. Ours had umbrellas however to block out the wind. I had thrown a sarong into my daypack for some reason and it came in handy. It protected me from the brunt of the wind when used in conjunction with the umbrella.Everyone holds the umbrellas in front of them and crouches behind them to block out the wind. It happened to rain on our first morning on the lake so the umbrellas did double duty. Thankfully it didn't last long. By the afternoon the sun was warm enough that we didn't need a sweater or the umbrella.
Life on the lake is fascinating. The driver would slow down or stop completely if he saw we wanted to take photos. The fishers who row with their legs, the incredible houses on stilts, crops of tomatoes, squash and other vegetables growing in floating gardens, children being taken to school in "school boats", everything was so amazing. We visited a silk, cotton and lotus weaving factory, silversmiths, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, junk shops, jewellery makers, paper makers, cigar (cheroot) factory, lacquerware factory during those two days. We know that this is a way for the driver/guides to make money but it was ok with us. We declined to stop at any place that didn't look interesting to us and our driver cheerily went on his way.
We visited the floating gardens, lots of villages around the lake and most especially Indien which is a village of ruins of stupas and temples. The ride down the river to this village is fascinating. We have photos of river life that no one at home will believe. Children tending their water buffalo by the river, riding their ox along the pathways by the river, riding in boats with no sign of life preservers. We were waved at and smiled at with little sign of the malice or boredom which so often can occur when local people are inundated with tourists staring at them.
We sped along the rivers and out in the main lake by women doing their laundry or dishes, cleaning vegetables or fish, families bathing and water buffaloes soaking up to their necks. All side by side and oblivious to what we were thinking about hygiene.
We had lunch at one of the numerous (and increasing) middle of the lake restaurants. The food was cheap and good. We went all day like this visiting a shop here a village there and just one temple (the Jumping Cat one) and a stupa with a thatched roof of all things.
On the second day we finished up by visiting the main places we hadn't seen the day before. Nan Pant, was where the market was being held that day. It's a 5 day rotating market and is well! attended by locals and tourists alike. The jetty and docks and beach area were packed with boats all jostling for a parking space. Something like a wet mall parking lot at home the week before Christmas. We headed straight for the farthest part of the market area and found the farmers and traders and buyers coming in on their ox carts or by longtail boat etc. You can literally buy anything here, cans of oil (fuel and cooking) , bamboo poles, fish of all kinds dried or fresh laying out on banana leaves,cheroots, betel, pots pans, clothing,blankets, trinkets,touristy stuff, silver (?), gold (?), lacquerware, meat, candy , breakfast, and some things of unknown material or use. It was totally fascinating being jostled for a few hours wandering the market area. We bought some Shan bags cheap here and a few other things. The photos and the memories were worth more than anything though.
We ended up in Nyuang Shwe the main town on the lake and an interesting place. We wandered around and had some lunch in one of many restaurants in the town. There were quite a few nice looking hotels here too. Not on the lake and not 5 star either but presentable enough. Interestingly enough we met the same couple here who we met in Mandalay a week or so before who were friends of friends. They had had a wonderful holiday and told us of one trip they had found out about which allows you to visit a place where the locals use dolphins to help them catch fish. The place they went is north of Mandalay I believe. I am not too sure of the particulars as it's a new venture being offered. They live in Thailand and had heard of it from someone there. If anyone is interested I can get more information from them. It sounds wonderful and something extra and different to do while in Myanmar. Maybe next time.
We headed back to the Lakeview Resort mid afternoon and on arrival found we were very burned from the sun and wind. We had been wearing hats in the morning but removed them at some point not thinking. Be sure to wear sunscreen and hats and cover up to protect yourselves.
A final dinner at the hotel with coffee to follow in the lovely bar opposite the reception area was a nice way to end our time at Inle.
Next morning we left the hotel at 7 am and were at the airport 45 minutes later. Some tour companies take their people by boat from Inle Lake to Nyuang Shwe then by car to the airport. it took about the same length of time both ways judging by what the people from Denmark told us. They travelled by boat and car and we travelled by car only and we arrived in the same length of time.
Yangon Airways flight back to Yangon where we were again met by Muang and driven to the summit Parkview. We were all in by this time and decided to just rest today. We sat by the pool (in the shade) and just read and wrote and prepared for our flight back to Bangkok.
We paid our $10.00 US departure tax the next morning for the privelege of leaving Myanmar which left a bad taste as you know that goes right to the governments pockets.
And so back to Bangkok.
I hope I have conveyed a sense of what our time was like in Myanmar. My dream had been fulfilled tenfold and although Ron had not had the desperate urge to see this country before, he certainly fell in love with it and it's people along the way. I hope that life will allow us to return to this beautiful place at some point. I hope that when we do return the people will not be suffering under the yoke of oppression that they are now.
I am not in any way religious but I do pray for them.
If I can answer any questions please let me know and if I have not answered some specific questions or queries you have please ask. Thanks to everyone for their encouragement in writing this report. Craig and Jeane's report was an inspiration.
regards,
Lynn
We arrived at the Inle Lakeview Resort hotel two hours after we left Kalaw by car. We were met at the front gate and our luggage was carried in for us. We checked into our lovely deluxe room on the second floor and opened our balcony doors to savour the lovely view of the lake and the hills in the distance. The first thing we did after enjoying the view from the balcony is hit the bar. A well made margarita had been on my mind and I found just that. The hotel, the bar, restaurant, rooms, everything here is lovely. We didn't check out the spa so I can't make any comments on it. I saw lots of guests heading there over the next few days so I think it is well used.
We enjoyed the meals at the Lakeview resort even though they were a bit expensive. The prices below are all in U.S $. Spaghetti carbonara $10.00, tomato and mozzarella salad $10.00, glass of house wine $5.00, Set menus (choice of Indian, thai, Burmese or European) at $15.00 and another european one at $30.00. There was a set 4 course meal at $38.00.There was also a gourmet meal but I didn't record the price unfortunately. Breakfast of course is included and it is very good. Fruit plate, juice, tea or coffee, toast, a basket of breads including croissants, chocolate pastries (yum), eggs, sausage, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, and toast if you want. All very delicious. The service in the restaurant could be a bit hit and miss as far as speed but you couldn't fault their determination to try hard to please. And those smiles are difficult to resist.
We wandered the town outside of the hotel the first afternoon we arrived and found it charming with a few restaurants for those who wanted a cheaper meal than the Lakeview offers and vendors selling handicrafts, water, soft drinks, cigarettes etc. We decided because of some stomach issues at this point to forego local meals unless necessary. Nothing too desperate just too much curry maybe?
The hotel as I said is very nice, the level of English spoken is very good generally but it does have a few things that need to be addressed. The TV stations did not include a movie station, which is something we had even at the hilltop village of Kalaw. While we don't travel to watch TV it is nice to watch a movie before bed. There is no pool which may be because of the lay of the land, and there is no way to make tea or coffee in your room. I can count on one hand the number of hotels I have stayed in over the years without a kettle or a coffee machine. Even 1 and 2 star hotels I have stayed in have this. I mentioned the lack of this amenity to the front desk and they found a kettle from somewhere and brought it to our room for our use during our stay. A nice touch of customer service. The room had lots of hot water which we had not had in some of the hotels. But when you see how the local people have to make do with washing everything in the nearest river or drawing and carrying water from the well down the street you just don't complain.
We were basically in Inle Lake with tours booked but no guide. This may or may not have been a mistake depending on who you talked to and how you look at it.
The hotel (reluctantly I'm afraid) called the local Santa Maria representative in Nyuang Shwe and relayed the message to us that our boat and driver would meet us at the dock at the hotel the next morning at 8:00a m. We headed down to the jetty after breakfast and found a boat with "Santa Maria Tours" on a board on the bow. The driver greeted us and although he spoke no English he was very resourceful in getting any message across to us. There was a guide waiting at the jetty who did speak English. He explained to us that this was our driver and we could get in the boat and he would take us around the lake today and tomorrow for our tours. We requested several things at that time and our driver fulfilled those wishes. During the next two days if our driver needed to get something across to us he simply asked someone wherever we happened to be to explain to us. If he wanted us to go some place in particular at a certain stop he would show us the way. Other than that he waited by the boat and we just did our own thing at our own speed. We met a couple from Denmark at the hotel who we regaled with our day's activities and our wonderment at the village of Indien which we felt was a highlight. They told us the next night that their English speaking guide refused to take them to Indien. she told them it was a few hours down river when it was really only 1/2 hour at most. They said having her as a guide stopped them from visiting the places they wanted to. Whereas we just showed our driver on the map the towns we wanted to visit and he took us to them.
Ron and I are pretty independent people and although a guide would have been nice to explain some of the things we were seeing we had our guide books which were pretty good at doing that job.
We asked the guide at the jetty the first morning to tell the driver that we did not want to visit too many temples or stupas. We had seen enough of these and now wanted to see life along the lake. The driver nodded knowingly when told this and we headed out on the most amazing boat trip ever. Just a warning that it is quite cool that time in the morning so take something to cover yourself with and a hat and sunscreen. We noticed some boats had blankets etc. but ours didn't. Ours had umbrellas however to block out the wind. I had thrown a sarong into my daypack for some reason and it came in handy. It protected me from the brunt of the wind when used in conjunction with the umbrella.Everyone holds the umbrellas in front of them and crouches behind them to block out the wind. It happened to rain on our first morning on the lake so the umbrellas did double duty. Thankfully it didn't last long. By the afternoon the sun was warm enough that we didn't need a sweater or the umbrella.
Life on the lake is fascinating. The driver would slow down or stop completely if he saw we wanted to take photos. The fishers who row with their legs, the incredible houses on stilts, crops of tomatoes, squash and other vegetables growing in floating gardens, children being taken to school in "school boats", everything was so amazing. We visited a silk, cotton and lotus weaving factory, silversmiths, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, junk shops, jewellery makers, paper makers, cigar (cheroot) factory, lacquerware factory during those two days. We know that this is a way for the driver/guides to make money but it was ok with us. We declined to stop at any place that didn't look interesting to us and our driver cheerily went on his way.
We visited the floating gardens, lots of villages around the lake and most especially Indien which is a village of ruins of stupas and temples. The ride down the river to this village is fascinating. We have photos of river life that no one at home will believe. Children tending their water buffalo by the river, riding their ox along the pathways by the river, riding in boats with no sign of life preservers. We were waved at and smiled at with little sign of the malice or boredom which so often can occur when local people are inundated with tourists staring at them.
We sped along the rivers and out in the main lake by women doing their laundry or dishes, cleaning vegetables or fish, families bathing and water buffaloes soaking up to their necks. All side by side and oblivious to what we were thinking about hygiene.
We had lunch at one of the numerous (and increasing) middle of the lake restaurants. The food was cheap and good. We went all day like this visiting a shop here a village there and just one temple (the Jumping Cat one) and a stupa with a thatched roof of all things.
On the second day we finished up by visiting the main places we hadn't seen the day before. Nan Pant, was where the market was being held that day. It's a 5 day rotating market and is well! attended by locals and tourists alike. The jetty and docks and beach area were packed with boats all jostling for a parking space. Something like a wet mall parking lot at home the week before Christmas. We headed straight for the farthest part of the market area and found the farmers and traders and buyers coming in on their ox carts or by longtail boat etc. You can literally buy anything here, cans of oil (fuel and cooking) , bamboo poles, fish of all kinds dried or fresh laying out on banana leaves,cheroots, betel, pots pans, clothing,blankets, trinkets,touristy stuff, silver (?), gold (?), lacquerware, meat, candy , breakfast, and some things of unknown material or use. It was totally fascinating being jostled for a few hours wandering the market area. We bought some Shan bags cheap here and a few other things. The photos and the memories were worth more than anything though.
We ended up in Nyuang Shwe the main town on the lake and an interesting place. We wandered around and had some lunch in one of many restaurants in the town. There were quite a few nice looking hotels here too. Not on the lake and not 5 star either but presentable enough. Interestingly enough we met the same couple here who we met in Mandalay a week or so before who were friends of friends. They had had a wonderful holiday and told us of one trip they had found out about which allows you to visit a place where the locals use dolphins to help them catch fish. The place they went is north of Mandalay I believe. I am not too sure of the particulars as it's a new venture being offered. They live in Thailand and had heard of it from someone there. If anyone is interested I can get more information from them. It sounds wonderful and something extra and different to do while in Myanmar. Maybe next time.
We headed back to the Lakeview Resort mid afternoon and on arrival found we were very burned from the sun and wind. We had been wearing hats in the morning but removed them at some point not thinking. Be sure to wear sunscreen and hats and cover up to protect yourselves.
A final dinner at the hotel with coffee to follow in the lovely bar opposite the reception area was a nice way to end our time at Inle.
Next morning we left the hotel at 7 am and were at the airport 45 minutes later. Some tour companies take their people by boat from Inle Lake to Nyuang Shwe then by car to the airport. it took about the same length of time both ways judging by what the people from Denmark told us. They travelled by boat and car and we travelled by car only and we arrived in the same length of time.
Yangon Airways flight back to Yangon where we were again met by Muang and driven to the summit Parkview. We were all in by this time and decided to just rest today. We sat by the pool (in the shade) and just read and wrote and prepared for our flight back to Bangkok.
We paid our $10.00 US departure tax the next morning for the privelege of leaving Myanmar which left a bad taste as you know that goes right to the governments pockets.
And so back to Bangkok.
I hope I have conveyed a sense of what our time was like in Myanmar. My dream had been fulfilled tenfold and although Ron had not had the desperate urge to see this country before, he certainly fell in love with it and it's people along the way. I hope that life will allow us to return to this beautiful place at some point. I hope that when we do return the people will not be suffering under the yoke of oppression that they are now.
I am not in any way religious but I do pray for them.
If I can answer any questions please let me know and if I have not answered some specific questions or queries you have please ask. Thanks to everyone for their encouragement in writing this report. Craig and Jeane's report was an inspiration.
regards,
Lynn
Mar 21st, 2007, 07:51 AM
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your report is making me want to be there. thank you. my one question is we want to travel there this May 15-30 with our 20 and 22 year old (one who melts in heat). what do you know about the weather then vs dec-feb (for next year instead). we need to work around school and job breaks. thanks so much
Mar 21st, 2007, 08:24 AM
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a beautiful report. You captured what makes Burma such a magical and moving and sad and joyous experience. And why I think it is so important to do whatever we can to help the wonderful people who live there.
Mar 21st, 2007, 09:40 AM
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i loved the report and all the descriptions....hope you will be able to share pictures with us as well...
while the government is not good in any way, i did not feel that the people were generally unhappy with their lot....
while the government is not good in any way, i did not feel that the people were generally unhappy with their lot....
Mar 21st, 2007, 09:57 AM
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Bob-- this is one time I think you're living in lala land. The people are well aware that they have no money, no health care, terrible education, no chance for advancement and they live in fear and suspicion. They may be kind and gentle and they, as Buddhists, may not rant and rave the way we do but that does not mean they are happy with their lot in life.
Mar 21st, 2007, 10:00 AM
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Thank you for your wonderful and descriptive report. You brought back so many wonderful memories of Myanmar. I would love to jump on an airplane today.
I did travel in April and May in Myanmar and it was hot!!!. But if we all wait for the perfect weather window in a country we may give up an experience that we may regret.(es. when it come to Kids and their lives in constant flex) If it is an easy change go for it for the comfort of your son. Or in Yangoon and Bagon just schudule for the AM and PM excursions.
Thanks again Keldar for your lovely report.
Sally
I did travel in April and May in Myanmar and it was hot!!!. But if we all wait for the perfect weather window in a country we may give up an experience that we may regret.(es. when it come to Kids and their lives in constant flex) If it is an easy change go for it for the comfort of your son. Or in Yangoon and Bagon just schudule for the AM and PM excursions.
Thanks again Keldar for your lovely report.
Sally
Mar 21st, 2007, 10:02 AM
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You saved the best (Inle Lake) for last.
I though the people were the best part of Burma. They are so open and this comes across on my pictures. The candor comes across in a way that is different from anywhere else I have been, especially in and around Lake Inle.
When I was at the Lake View hotel in September they were in the process of building a pool. Is it not completed yet?
Thanks for a great report and letting me relive my visit!
I though the people were the best part of Burma. They are so open and this comes across on my pictures. The candor comes across in a way that is different from anywhere else I have been, especially in and around Lake Inle.
When I was at the Lake View hotel in September they were in the process of building a pool. Is it not completed yet?
Thanks for a great report and letting me relive my visit!
Mar 21st, 2007, 12:40 PM
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I'd like to chime in on Gloria's comment - I am sure there are some Burmese that feel a sense of hopelessness and live in fear of the government. However, in conversations with our Pao guide at Inle Lake she was optimistic that things are changing, that the Burmese economy is opening up to the outside world and that things are getting better. Interestingly, she also expressed that people in her area of the country were well-off compared to those elsewhere in the country (perhaps due to tourism or agriculture(?) This is not what I had expected to hear from someone living in the Shan state.
Mar 21st, 2007, 01:14 PM
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The situation with the junta in Burma is truly grim. That people can smile and live in the moment is a credit to the people but does not diminish the cruelty of their govenment in any way. Craig, I wonder if your Pao guide was referring to the fact thet the government has a policy of genocide against a number of tribal groups, and, fortunately, the Pao is not one of them. Also, the government rounds up groups of children and uses them for forced labor. Perhaps the Pao have recently been spared.
Mar 21st, 2007, 01:54 PM
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Kathie, the Pao have been lucky enough to negotiate terms with the military government that have worked out favorably to them. You can read all about this in Lonely Planet. Why would my guide or any other reasonable person suggest that "a policy of genocide against a number of tribal groups" or that "the government rounds up groups of children and uses them for forced labor" be associated with positive developments in the country? (Unless of course she is a spy - doubtful, since she tutors schoolchildren in English.) I am just relaying one experience that can and should be interpreted as supportive of Bob's.
Go and see for yourself and then provide your own original commentary. I don't think repeating opinions which have been beat to death on this forum and elsewhere is particularly constructive or helpful to the oppressed Myanmar people.
Go and see for yourself and then provide your own original commentary. I don't think repeating opinions which have been beat to death on this forum and elsewhere is particularly constructive or helpful to the oppressed Myanmar people.
Mar 21st, 2007, 02:25 PM
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Craig-- I think what you experienced is what I did on my second trip. Those people who are in tourist centers and who are benefiting from tourism are doing much better than others. They have more money and they certainly feel less isolated and have far more access to goods at reasonable prices. I also found them much less fearful of the government. BUT they represent a very small percentage of the country. However,it convinces me how important and beneficial contact with the outside world is to these people.
