INDIA: "A Pleasant Surprise"
May 9th, 2015, 10:24 AM
#21
JAIPUR: Samode Haveli
At breakfast, Maya had told us about a new road to Jaipur from Shahpura Bahg that the drivers didn’t know about. It shaved about an hour and a half off the drive and was much smoother than we’d been experiencing. We arrived about 1:15 and met Dev, our local guide at our hotel, Samode Haveli, located at the edge of the old town. Our deluxe room was not as luxurious as we’d had up to now, but still charming. It had it’s own private courtyard with a built in settee and a small fountain closed off from the hotel’s courtyard with a filigree iron door, but the room was rather dark with small windows as it overlooked the driveway entrance to the hotel. Nice wood four poster bed. We first ate lunch in our hotel on a pretty outside terrace, but the food was marginal. That’s what we get for ordering international food as a break from Indian cuisine.
Dev picked us up at 3:30 for a City Palace tour, located nearby in the heart of Jaipur. It’s a relatively new palace form the early 1700’s showcasing both Rajput and Mughal architecture that Maharajah Jai Singh built when he moved his residence from Amber Fort to this City Palace. The extravagant beauty of the Indian palaces really have to be seen to be believed. This one featured four sumptious doorways that depicted the four seasons and Hindu Gods that led into an inner courtyard. City Palace is part museum, part royal residence and the museum collection featured an extensive armoury collection, many decorated with precious jewels, a Textile museum showcasing royal clothing, rugs, saris, pashimas, etc. A fun thing to see was the enormous clothing of Maharajah Madho Singh I, who was almost 4’ wide and weighed 550#....despite his girth, he still managed to have over 100 wives. Another must see are the two largest silver urns in the world that one maharajah had buillt to carry Ganges water for him to drink while visiting England.
Next on the agenda: shopping. I had a list of stores I wanted to visit, and perhaps, I should have just started with that. But, I told Dev I wanted to buy a few more pashimas so he took us to Ganesh Handicrafts. First, we went to watch a block printing demonstration, then the guy took us into the shop, told us to sit down, and offered us chai tea. When I declined, I was told “ This is our custom in India, ma’am. You must accept our hospitality.”...and started pulling out bedspreads. Oh no, not again! I told him we’d already bought all we needed in Jodhpur...just wanted to see pashima shawls. His were about $50 when I’d paid $30 in Jodhpur. And, I didn’t like any of them. So, we left, but I was irritated with Dev because I just wanted to look for pashimas without the song and dance. Next, checked out Hot Pink...nothing and expensive....then FabIndia, which was better because you could look on your own. Other than a toddler’s sundress, I didn’t see anything I wanted to buy.
Back at Samode Haveli, we ate dinner outside on the terrace, but a particularly discordant and loud Call to Prayer began at 8:30. We shared a Thali but we thought the food quality was the worst we’d had in India...average at best. The chicken tikka was tough as was the mutton curry. Saved by a good Sula Cab Sauv and delicious butterscotch and chocolate ice cream.
Everything looks better in the morning, especially when one’s cold symptoms have finally left. While we weren’t loving Jaipur or our hotel yesterday, this morning began with a great breakfast buffet, including mimosa’s with mango juice, out on the terrace.
At 8:30, Dev met us for the drive to Amber Fort, sited beautifully high up in the hills above a lake, and encircled by the city walls. We’d previously decided we didn’t want to take the elephant ride up, for a variety of reasons, and after seeing the queue, were glad we were skipping this. Instead, I got close up photos of the elephants, many still sporting their Holi colors on heads and trunks, parading through the courtyard before depositing their charges on a wall. Very fun to be so close to so many elephants.
The Amber Fort turned out to be much more interesting and beautiful than City Palace.
It’s older, built in 1592 by Man Singh, but much of it’s elegance was added by Jai Singh.
The Sheesh Mahal is simply one of the most beautiful rooms I’ve ever seen, where one candle will look like a thousand stars reflected in all the mirror mosaics. Besides it’s beauty, the Palace also boasted some unique innovations for it’s time. There was a jacuzzi and steam room, an air cooling process using water, and toilets. Decorative elements included the Ganesh Pol, a shimmering 3 story gateway to the private residences covered with pastel painted frescoes....gorgeous... a vaulted and honeycombed ceiling, the marble carved jali (lattice screens)...the symmetrical columns of the Diwan-i-Am where his ministers held office. From higher in the palace, you can look down on beautiful formal gardens floating in the lake, and watch the elephants snake their way up the hill until an elephant jam occurs passing through a two-way entrance gate.
Leaving the palace we encoutered the worst touts of our trip, even walking with a tour guide. I had to laugh as I employed the two Hindi words I learned to say “Kutch Nahi” meaning “Don’t need”, which was supposed to be more effective than “No, thank you”...and one of the guys corrected my pronuciation.
Next, we stopped for a view of the lovely Hawa Mihal, the latticed beauty that allowed the women to observe what was happening down on the main street. Finally, Jantar Mantar, that amazing astronomy sculptural complex built in the early 1700’s to determine time, horoscopes, and movement of the planets and stars. It’s still used today to help forecast how hot the summer will be (basically, hot!) and the monsoon characteristics. Dev gave us a good demonstration and explanation of how the various instruments worked. Interesting that they are all tilted at 27 degrees, to match Jaipur’s latitude. My husband had earlier determined that it must be close to ours in FL (which is 26+ degrees) as he’d recognized the same constellation pattern from home when we were outside at Shahpura Bagh. Also, local time is off from India’s official time by several minutes, since gigantic India operates under only one time zone.
This afternoon’s shopping begins with a visit to a chemist’s shop to buy prescription drugs. I’d brought my asthma inhaler (Symbicort) and an eye/ear drop I take (Ciprodex) along with a copy of the prescriptions, and Dev took us to a row of open storefronts. Didn’t look at all like a US pharmacy, but the guy found equivalent generics and the prices astounded me. At Walmart, I had paid $255 for one inhaler (month supply),,,changed to a Canadian mail order pharmacy where it cost $70 for one...India’s price: $5 ! The ear drops cost me $80 for a tiny bottle that lasts two weeks....Canada’s price $55....India’s price: 8 cents!!! Couldn’t believe it. I wanted more than they had in their store so we had to wait a bit for more to come. I ended buying a year’s supply of both, when I bought more in New Delhi. You could finance an airplane ticket with drug savings!
We were having trouble with ATM’s here so had to go back and change money at hotel, and then stopped in a Lac Bangle shop and bought a bunch. Better quality than the ones I got in Jodhpur.
Finally, we get to Anokhi about 2p, say goodbye to Dev, and grabbed lunch in their excellent cafe. We’re more successful finding things here, and I get a long multi-tiered, scoop neck dress, a top for my mother, two bathrobes for men, boxer shorts, several long, floating scarves and napkins. At 3:30, Krishna picks up to take back to the hotel. I tried to go to another shop, but he didn’t know how to get there and the directions I got sounded complicated. So, instead, we went back to finally relax at their beautiful pool. I booked a last minute massage, which was delightful and reasonable by hotel standards.
We had planned to try a different restaurant tonight, but didn’t feel like a 30 minute drive to get there, so ate once more at the hotel. Tonight was a much better experience with tender Tandoori Chicken, stuffed Tandoori peppers with potatoes and cheese, good Garlic naan, glass of Sula Cab Sauv and that great ice cream again. I should mention though, that we thought the restaurant was over-priced...about $70 for that meal.
If anyone will be spending more time in Jaipur than we had, I’d recommend reading “Love, Jaipur” by Fiona Caulfield as it’s a beautifully written book filled with her personal favorites regarding shops, restaurants, things to do, etc.
Next: AGRA & Oberois Amarvllas
At breakfast, Maya had told us about a new road to Jaipur from Shahpura Bahg that the drivers didn’t know about. It shaved about an hour and a half off the drive and was much smoother than we’d been experiencing. We arrived about 1:15 and met Dev, our local guide at our hotel, Samode Haveli, located at the edge of the old town. Our deluxe room was not as luxurious as we’d had up to now, but still charming. It had it’s own private courtyard with a built in settee and a small fountain closed off from the hotel’s courtyard with a filigree iron door, but the room was rather dark with small windows as it overlooked the driveway entrance to the hotel. Nice wood four poster bed. We first ate lunch in our hotel on a pretty outside terrace, but the food was marginal. That’s what we get for ordering international food as a break from Indian cuisine.
Dev picked us up at 3:30 for a City Palace tour, located nearby in the heart of Jaipur. It’s a relatively new palace form the early 1700’s showcasing both Rajput and Mughal architecture that Maharajah Jai Singh built when he moved his residence from Amber Fort to this City Palace. The extravagant beauty of the Indian palaces really have to be seen to be believed. This one featured four sumptious doorways that depicted the four seasons and Hindu Gods that led into an inner courtyard. City Palace is part museum, part royal residence and the museum collection featured an extensive armoury collection, many decorated with precious jewels, a Textile museum showcasing royal clothing, rugs, saris, pashimas, etc. A fun thing to see was the enormous clothing of Maharajah Madho Singh I, who was almost 4’ wide and weighed 550#....despite his girth, he still managed to have over 100 wives. Another must see are the two largest silver urns in the world that one maharajah had buillt to carry Ganges water for him to drink while visiting England.
Next on the agenda: shopping. I had a list of stores I wanted to visit, and perhaps, I should have just started with that. But, I told Dev I wanted to buy a few more pashimas so he took us to Ganesh Handicrafts. First, we went to watch a block printing demonstration, then the guy took us into the shop, told us to sit down, and offered us chai tea. When I declined, I was told “ This is our custom in India, ma’am. You must accept our hospitality.”...and started pulling out bedspreads. Oh no, not again! I told him we’d already bought all we needed in Jodhpur...just wanted to see pashima shawls. His were about $50 when I’d paid $30 in Jodhpur. And, I didn’t like any of them. So, we left, but I was irritated with Dev because I just wanted to look for pashimas without the song and dance. Next, checked out Hot Pink...nothing and expensive....then FabIndia, which was better because you could look on your own. Other than a toddler’s sundress, I didn’t see anything I wanted to buy.
Back at Samode Haveli, we ate dinner outside on the terrace, but a particularly discordant and loud Call to Prayer began at 8:30. We shared a Thali but we thought the food quality was the worst we’d had in India...average at best. The chicken tikka was tough as was the mutton curry. Saved by a good Sula Cab Sauv and delicious butterscotch and chocolate ice cream.
Everything looks better in the morning, especially when one’s cold symptoms have finally left. While we weren’t loving Jaipur or our hotel yesterday, this morning began with a great breakfast buffet, including mimosa’s with mango juice, out on the terrace.
At 8:30, Dev met us for the drive to Amber Fort, sited beautifully high up in the hills above a lake, and encircled by the city walls. We’d previously decided we didn’t want to take the elephant ride up, for a variety of reasons, and after seeing the queue, were glad we were skipping this. Instead, I got close up photos of the elephants, many still sporting their Holi colors on heads and trunks, parading through the courtyard before depositing their charges on a wall. Very fun to be so close to so many elephants.
The Amber Fort turned out to be much more interesting and beautiful than City Palace.
It’s older, built in 1592 by Man Singh, but much of it’s elegance was added by Jai Singh.
The Sheesh Mahal is simply one of the most beautiful rooms I’ve ever seen, where one candle will look like a thousand stars reflected in all the mirror mosaics. Besides it’s beauty, the Palace also boasted some unique innovations for it’s time. There was a jacuzzi and steam room, an air cooling process using water, and toilets. Decorative elements included the Ganesh Pol, a shimmering 3 story gateway to the private residences covered with pastel painted frescoes....gorgeous... a vaulted and honeycombed ceiling, the marble carved jali (lattice screens)...the symmetrical columns of the Diwan-i-Am where his ministers held office. From higher in the palace, you can look down on beautiful formal gardens floating in the lake, and watch the elephants snake their way up the hill until an elephant jam occurs passing through a two-way entrance gate.
Leaving the palace we encoutered the worst touts of our trip, even walking with a tour guide. I had to laugh as I employed the two Hindi words I learned to say “Kutch Nahi” meaning “Don’t need”, which was supposed to be more effective than “No, thank you”...and one of the guys corrected my pronuciation.
Next, we stopped for a view of the lovely Hawa Mihal, the latticed beauty that allowed the women to observe what was happening down on the main street. Finally, Jantar Mantar, that amazing astronomy sculptural complex built in the early 1700’s to determine time, horoscopes, and movement of the planets and stars. It’s still used today to help forecast how hot the summer will be (basically, hot!) and the monsoon characteristics. Dev gave us a good demonstration and explanation of how the various instruments worked. Interesting that they are all tilted at 27 degrees, to match Jaipur’s latitude. My husband had earlier determined that it must be close to ours in FL (which is 26+ degrees) as he’d recognized the same constellation pattern from home when we were outside at Shahpura Bagh. Also, local time is off from India’s official time by several minutes, since gigantic India operates under only one time zone.
This afternoon’s shopping begins with a visit to a chemist’s shop to buy prescription drugs. I’d brought my asthma inhaler (Symbicort) and an eye/ear drop I take (Ciprodex) along with a copy of the prescriptions, and Dev took us to a row of open storefronts. Didn’t look at all like a US pharmacy, but the guy found equivalent generics and the prices astounded me. At Walmart, I had paid $255 for one inhaler (month supply),,,changed to a Canadian mail order pharmacy where it cost $70 for one...India’s price: $5 ! The ear drops cost me $80 for a tiny bottle that lasts two weeks....Canada’s price $55....India’s price: 8 cents!!! Couldn’t believe it. I wanted more than they had in their store so we had to wait a bit for more to come. I ended buying a year’s supply of both, when I bought more in New Delhi. You could finance an airplane ticket with drug savings!
We were having trouble with ATM’s here so had to go back and change money at hotel, and then stopped in a Lac Bangle shop and bought a bunch. Better quality than the ones I got in Jodhpur.
Finally, we get to Anokhi about 2p, say goodbye to Dev, and grabbed lunch in their excellent cafe. We’re more successful finding things here, and I get a long multi-tiered, scoop neck dress, a top for my mother, two bathrobes for men, boxer shorts, several long, floating scarves and napkins. At 3:30, Krishna picks up to take back to the hotel. I tried to go to another shop, but he didn’t know how to get there and the directions I got sounded complicated. So, instead, we went back to finally relax at their beautiful pool. I booked a last minute massage, which was delightful and reasonable by hotel standards.
We had planned to try a different restaurant tonight, but didn’t feel like a 30 minute drive to get there, so ate once more at the hotel. Tonight was a much better experience with tender Tandoori Chicken, stuffed Tandoori peppers with potatoes and cheese, good Garlic naan, glass of Sula Cab Sauv and that great ice cream again. I should mention though, that we thought the restaurant was over-priced...about $70 for that meal.
If anyone will be spending more time in Jaipur than we had, I’d recommend reading “Love, Jaipur” by Fiona Caulfield as it’s a beautifully written book filled with her personal favorites regarding shops, restaurants, things to do, etc.
Next: AGRA & Oberois Amarvllas
May 9th, 2015, 12:30 PM
#23
Hi Kathie,
thanks for commenting. Actually, I felt like a shopping failure because I didn't get to a lot of the shops I wanted to see. After all the hype about Jaipur jewelry, I was hoping to find a casual piece that I liked, but didn't. Didn't even venture into the precious gem stores, although another guest at Shahpura had and she thought their prices were high.
thanks for commenting. Actually, I felt like a shopping failure because I didn't get to a lot of the shops I wanted to see. After all the hype about Jaipur jewelry, I was hoping to find a casual piece that I liked, but didn't. Didn't even venture into the precious gem stores, although another guest at Shahpura had and she thought their prices were high.
May 10th, 2015, 11:32 AM
#27
FromDC, I went back and looked up your trip report…I sure wish i had read it before we left. And, I would've love to have stayed at Vanyavilas..it sounded wonderful. Since our prior trip had been on safari in Botswana, I didn't think we needed another safari trip in India to try to see a tiger so didn't look into Rathambore, but the experience sounds very different. I agree with you that India was easier than expected.
May 10th, 2015, 03:47 PM
#28
AGRA: Oberois Amarvilas
Headed out of Jaipur at 8:30am and turned down the chance to tour Fatehpur Sikri along the way because we wanted to enjoy the facilities of this great hotel. The road just before Agra was one of the worst we’ve been on and it was about a 5 hour drive.
The Oberoi Amarvilas was the most expensive hotel we stayed at and booked the non-balcony room, hoping for an upgrade. Not this time. But, the room was beautiful and still had the view of the Taj and overlooked an amazing terraced pool area. When we arrived, we encounted many armed soldiers and wondered if this was normal security. No, the Prince Aga Khan, from Saudi Arabia, was staying at our hotel.
Our guide, Ishlam, wanted to come back at 4p to tour the Baby Taj, but that wouldn’t have been enough rest time, so we asked for 5p instead to go to Memtahb Bagh for our sunset view of the Taj. It’s a good thing we did, because lunch service was very slow. By the time we got to the pool, we only had about an hour to enjoy it and realized we could’ve gotten food sitting out there. I’m not sure I’ve seen a more gorgeous pool area with fountains, stepped-down garden quandrants and a narrow channel of water running between them.
It was about a half hour drive to Memtahb Bagh, the gardens across the river from the Taj that offer a view of the back. We could see that the Taj was packed with people and were glad we were waiting for early morning to vist. The river was also being patrolled by police boats because of the Prince’s visit. It was a subdued sunset so we didn’t quite experience the changing colors on the marble, perhaps because a cremation was occuring across the river, next to the Taj, so the air was hazy from the smoke. Hard to believe that cremations are allowed so close to a UNESCO World Heritage monument.
Our guide tells us he’s a photography expert, but mostly likes to take trick shots and keeps asking for our cameras to shoot them for us. We stood around for an hour and a half watching the Taj and the other people around us. A little scenario went on with some German tourists who were told by a policeman to stay behind a wire fence that separated us from the getting closer to the river and that they couldn’t use their tripods, which is stated on entrance signs. They started arguing with him that they had bought a ticket, that they were entitled to go there...quite risky shouting at an Indian policeman. He actually appealed to our guide for help, but Ishlam stayed out of it.
Had to rush to get to dinner at Esphahan, in the hotel, a lovely small Indian restaurant with a musician playing sitar music during dinner. We had the most charming waiter who brought me two packages of papadum after I mentioned to him how much I liked the crackers. Slept like royalty enjoying the delightful bed linens, but also knowing we had to get up at 4:30am.
We wanted to beat the crowds to see the Taj, so Ishlam said we had to leave the hotel at 5:15am, take the hotel’s golf cart to the entrance by 5:30, and then be first in line for when it opens at 6am. Well, we were third in line...not bad, and by the time 6am rolled around the line was already long. A few days earlier, during Easter weekend, 40,000 visitors had gone through each day.
We dashed through the front gate and could get the first photos of the Taj reflected in the pool empty of other people. It loomed before us, serene and magnificent as we drunk it in for a few quiet moments. Of course, then he started with all the trick shots....I felt like a bride...turn this way, look here, smile, etc. He did get some nice shots of us in front of the Taj though.
As we got closer and closer the beautiful details emerge. Loved all the pietra dura...carved floral marble inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones. The side panels pictured bas-relieve textural carvings of flowers..simple and elegant. Inside, we couldn’t take photos but oohed at the beautifully carved jali screen that surround the sarcophagus. A guard inside shone his flashlight on the marble so we could see it’s translucency and how the jewels shone.
It seemed like we had a lot of time to explore the grounds and visit the red sandstone mosque next door. This was another beautiful building with concentric carved domed ceilings.
So about 7:40 we were ready to head back to the Oberoi for a fantastic breakfast. I felt we’d had a good experience at the Taj, but I didn’t feel overwhelmed or especially touched by viewing it, as anticipated with all the hype.
At 11am, we’re picked up for our final tour here...the Agra Fort. It’s very hot today and we find that we didn’t like this Fort & Palace as much as we liked the earlier ones. So, by 1p we’re ready for the drive to New Delhi.
Next: New Delhi
Headed out of Jaipur at 8:30am and turned down the chance to tour Fatehpur Sikri along the way because we wanted to enjoy the facilities of this great hotel. The road just before Agra was one of the worst we’ve been on and it was about a 5 hour drive.
The Oberoi Amarvilas was the most expensive hotel we stayed at and booked the non-balcony room, hoping for an upgrade. Not this time. But, the room was beautiful and still had the view of the Taj and overlooked an amazing terraced pool area. When we arrived, we encounted many armed soldiers and wondered if this was normal security. No, the Prince Aga Khan, from Saudi Arabia, was staying at our hotel.
Our guide, Ishlam, wanted to come back at 4p to tour the Baby Taj, but that wouldn’t have been enough rest time, so we asked for 5p instead to go to Memtahb Bagh for our sunset view of the Taj. It’s a good thing we did, because lunch service was very slow. By the time we got to the pool, we only had about an hour to enjoy it and realized we could’ve gotten food sitting out there. I’m not sure I’ve seen a more gorgeous pool area with fountains, stepped-down garden quandrants and a narrow channel of water running between them.
It was about a half hour drive to Memtahb Bagh, the gardens across the river from the Taj that offer a view of the back. We could see that the Taj was packed with people and were glad we were waiting for early morning to vist. The river was also being patrolled by police boats because of the Prince’s visit. It was a subdued sunset so we didn’t quite experience the changing colors on the marble, perhaps because a cremation was occuring across the river, next to the Taj, so the air was hazy from the smoke. Hard to believe that cremations are allowed so close to a UNESCO World Heritage monument.
Our guide tells us he’s a photography expert, but mostly likes to take trick shots and keeps asking for our cameras to shoot them for us. We stood around for an hour and a half watching the Taj and the other people around us. A little scenario went on with some German tourists who were told by a policeman to stay behind a wire fence that separated us from the getting closer to the river and that they couldn’t use their tripods, which is stated on entrance signs. They started arguing with him that they had bought a ticket, that they were entitled to go there...quite risky shouting at an Indian policeman. He actually appealed to our guide for help, but Ishlam stayed out of it.
Had to rush to get to dinner at Esphahan, in the hotel, a lovely small Indian restaurant with a musician playing sitar music during dinner. We had the most charming waiter who brought me two packages of papadum after I mentioned to him how much I liked the crackers. Slept like royalty enjoying the delightful bed linens, but also knowing we had to get up at 4:30am.
We wanted to beat the crowds to see the Taj, so Ishlam said we had to leave the hotel at 5:15am, take the hotel’s golf cart to the entrance by 5:30, and then be first in line for when it opens at 6am. Well, we were third in line...not bad, and by the time 6am rolled around the line was already long. A few days earlier, during Easter weekend, 40,000 visitors had gone through each day.
We dashed through the front gate and could get the first photos of the Taj reflected in the pool empty of other people. It loomed before us, serene and magnificent as we drunk it in for a few quiet moments. Of course, then he started with all the trick shots....I felt like a bride...turn this way, look here, smile, etc. He did get some nice shots of us in front of the Taj though.
As we got closer and closer the beautiful details emerge. Loved all the pietra dura...carved floral marble inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones. The side panels pictured bas-relieve textural carvings of flowers..simple and elegant. Inside, we couldn’t take photos but oohed at the beautifully carved jali screen that surround the sarcophagus. A guard inside shone his flashlight on the marble so we could see it’s translucency and how the jewels shone.
It seemed like we had a lot of time to explore the grounds and visit the red sandstone mosque next door. This was another beautiful building with concentric carved domed ceilings.
So about 7:40 we were ready to head back to the Oberoi for a fantastic breakfast. I felt we’d had a good experience at the Taj, but I didn’t feel overwhelmed or especially touched by viewing it, as anticipated with all the hype.
At 11am, we’re picked up for our final tour here...the Agra Fort. It’s very hot today and we find that we didn’t like this Fort & Palace as much as we liked the earlier ones. So, by 1p we’re ready for the drive to New Delhi.
Next: New Delhi
May 11th, 2015, 10:57 AM
#29
NEW DELHI Leela Palace Hotel
Our India sojourn is drawing to a close as we arrive in New Delhi about 4p at another gorgeous hotel, the Leela Palace. The only thing on the agenda now is lounging for a bit at their beautiful, 11th floor infinity pool overlooking the diplomatic area. It seems like I’m mentioning pools alot, but when it’s in the upper 90’s every day, it’s an attractive spot to be. I was surprised at how wide and green the roads were leading up to the hotel...and not as congested as I’d imagined. Krishna had been telling us how the air quality has improved since they made all public transport use compressed natural gas. However, DH said he could taste the pollution, and we’ve since read that Delhi is the most polluted city in the world. The sky was a bit hazy but it didn’t look that bad.
Tonight, we dined at Dum Pukht at the ITC Maurya known for a slow oven cooking technique, often in sealed containers. The restaurant was beautiful, the food delicious, but we had a surly and inefficient waiter that marred the experience. The lamb shank was excellent, exceedingly tender and flavorful as was a spinach dish. But, we had to ask for a check three times, waited over a half hour for it to arrive, dishes weren’t cleared, etc. When you’re paying $170 for dinner (just two glasses of wine), you expect better service.
We had a personable local guide, Vevek that we really didn’t use to his potential. At this point in our trip, we had had enough of palaces, forts, tombs, markets, traffic and chaos, I just wanted to see Qutub Minar and spend the rest of the afternoon shopping for souvenirs I still needed to get. He agreed that Qutub was the one thing in New Delhi that we shouldn’t miss...it’s unique in the world being the tallest and oldest minaret built to celebrate the first conquest by the Muslims. We really enjoyed walking around the archeology complex and I’m enthralled by the intricate carvings of Quran verses and other geometric decorations in the red sandstone. The mosque was also intriguing being built using a hodge-podge of materials from old Hindu temples.
On the way to Khan Market, we drove by the india Gate and saw the presidential palace and Supreme Court buildings. Vevek gave us a quick tour of Khan Market and sent us on our way. Started with lunch at Latitude Cafe and then shopped at Good Earth and Anokhi again, but I didn’t see many other stores I liked. I’d read about Mehar Chand Market as being a good place to shop, which took awhile for Krishna to find. I struck out there too, except decided to buy more of my prescription drugs there.
Went back to enjoy the Leela Palace’s pool again...I’ve never seen so many pigeons also enjoying a pool. Our last dinner in India would be enjoying pizza and Branzino at La Piazza at the Hyatt Regency.
Our last morning in India, Arvind met us to collect his money. He let us pay with traveler’s checks, which spared the extra 3% on a credit card, without having to carry so much US cash. He’s a very nice man and we thanked him profusely for arranging such a flawless trip and sang the praises of Krishna.
We weren’t being picked up for our flight to Japan until 6:30p, but basically needed the whole day to repack everything for an international flight. I did manage to get a much-needed manicure at the hotel’s spa and was surprised to have a male manicurist. He said that women in India don’t do this type of work or massages...we also rarely saw women cleaning hotel rooms. The hotel let us stay in our room until 4p and then we had an early supper in the Qube, a very cool casual restaurant where you also eat breakfast, although we always chose to eat outside (to the detriment of DH’s hat which was blessed by a pigeon).
So, we survived India quite nicely, but not completely. Today, DH starts coming down with the same virus I had that would plague him when we arrive in Kyoto for a stop-0ver on the way home.
As an aside, what a cultural shock going from sunny, hot, colorful, chaotic, dirty India where we loved the food to cool, rainy, green and cherry blossoming Japan where everything works except the food isn’t our favorite...but those awesome toilets! That was the biggest treat after India...and, that we didn’t have to think about whether we should eat something (unless it was gross like baby squid or tiny whole river fish)
We’re both very happy to have experienced the extremes of India...it’s extravagant beauty, the harmony that exists between it’s lovely people, it’s unbelievable poverty and poor infrastructure...all help to put the world in context.
Our India sojourn is drawing to a close as we arrive in New Delhi about 4p at another gorgeous hotel, the Leela Palace. The only thing on the agenda now is lounging for a bit at their beautiful, 11th floor infinity pool overlooking the diplomatic area. It seems like I’m mentioning pools alot, but when it’s in the upper 90’s every day, it’s an attractive spot to be. I was surprised at how wide and green the roads were leading up to the hotel...and not as congested as I’d imagined. Krishna had been telling us how the air quality has improved since they made all public transport use compressed natural gas. However, DH said he could taste the pollution, and we’ve since read that Delhi is the most polluted city in the world. The sky was a bit hazy but it didn’t look that bad.
Tonight, we dined at Dum Pukht at the ITC Maurya known for a slow oven cooking technique, often in sealed containers. The restaurant was beautiful, the food delicious, but we had a surly and inefficient waiter that marred the experience. The lamb shank was excellent, exceedingly tender and flavorful as was a spinach dish. But, we had to ask for a check three times, waited over a half hour for it to arrive, dishes weren’t cleared, etc. When you’re paying $170 for dinner (just two glasses of wine), you expect better service.
We had a personable local guide, Vevek that we really didn’t use to his potential. At this point in our trip, we had had enough of palaces, forts, tombs, markets, traffic and chaos, I just wanted to see Qutub Minar and spend the rest of the afternoon shopping for souvenirs I still needed to get. He agreed that Qutub was the one thing in New Delhi that we shouldn’t miss...it’s unique in the world being the tallest and oldest minaret built to celebrate the first conquest by the Muslims. We really enjoyed walking around the archeology complex and I’m enthralled by the intricate carvings of Quran verses and other geometric decorations in the red sandstone. The mosque was also intriguing being built using a hodge-podge of materials from old Hindu temples.
On the way to Khan Market, we drove by the india Gate and saw the presidential palace and Supreme Court buildings. Vevek gave us a quick tour of Khan Market and sent us on our way. Started with lunch at Latitude Cafe and then shopped at Good Earth and Anokhi again, but I didn’t see many other stores I liked. I’d read about Mehar Chand Market as being a good place to shop, which took awhile for Krishna to find. I struck out there too, except decided to buy more of my prescription drugs there.
Went back to enjoy the Leela Palace’s pool again...I’ve never seen so many pigeons also enjoying a pool. Our last dinner in India would be enjoying pizza and Branzino at La Piazza at the Hyatt Regency.
Our last morning in India, Arvind met us to collect his money. He let us pay with traveler’s checks, which spared the extra 3% on a credit card, without having to carry so much US cash. He’s a very nice man and we thanked him profusely for arranging such a flawless trip and sang the praises of Krishna.
We weren’t being picked up for our flight to Japan until 6:30p, but basically needed the whole day to repack everything for an international flight. I did manage to get a much-needed manicure at the hotel’s spa and was surprised to have a male manicurist. He said that women in India don’t do this type of work or massages...we also rarely saw women cleaning hotel rooms. The hotel let us stay in our room until 4p and then we had an early supper in the Qube, a very cool casual restaurant where you also eat breakfast, although we always chose to eat outside (to the detriment of DH’s hat which was blessed by a pigeon).
So, we survived India quite nicely, but not completely. Today, DH starts coming down with the same virus I had that would plague him when we arrive in Kyoto for a stop-0ver on the way home.
As an aside, what a cultural shock going from sunny, hot, colorful, chaotic, dirty India where we loved the food to cool, rainy, green and cherry blossoming Japan where everything works except the food isn’t our favorite...but those awesome toilets! That was the biggest treat after India...and, that we didn’t have to think about whether we should eat something (unless it was gross like baby squid or tiny whole river fish)
We’re both very happy to have experienced the extremes of India...it’s extravagant beauty, the harmony that exists between it’s lovely people, it’s unbelievable poverty and poor infrastructure...all help to put the world in context.
May 11th, 2015, 01:20 PM
#34
Thanks to all of you for your comments, and most importantly, this trip never would have happened without the recommendations and thoughts of you Fodorites. People I talk with are always amazed at how I find local guides, book restaurants ahead of time, etc. I tell them my most valuable source is the people on this site who've been there, done that and provide honest feedback about their experiences.
May 14th, 2015, 04:05 PM
#38
indianapearl,
just read your trip report…how come I find these now instead of before?
You certainly got your money's worth with your last trip…lots of unique experiences. I feel we perhaps took it a bit too easy. Glad I'm not the only one to feel a little "off" about Shahpura…although I did really like the owners.
just read your trip report…how come I find these now instead of before?
You certainly got your money's worth with your last trip…lots of unique experiences. I feel we perhaps took it a bit too easy. Glad I'm not the only one to feel a little "off" about Shahpura…although I did really like the owners.
May 14th, 2015, 05:16 PM
#39
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Thanks for the report. My take is that the weather is a huge factor in everyone's India experience. I'm not sure I would have wanted to traipse around if it were in the high 90s (or cold and foggy, as many have reported in December). We lucked out in late September - warm (high 80s) but tolerable, no crowds, plenty of off season bargains. But I would have liked to see a wedding.
Had to laugh at your cheesy Taj Mahal photographer. We had a random guy from one of the photo places take our photos because we weren't using a guide. Our intention was just to give him a tip for taking pics with our own camera. But we ended up buying some of the photos he took - and in most we are in ridiculous poses, almost parodies that looked photo shopped. Ended up calling him the wedding photographer of Agra.
Finally...Travelers checks?? Wow, I had no idea they still existed.
Had to laugh at your cheesy Taj Mahal photographer. We had a random guy from one of the photo places take our photos because we weren't using a guide. Our intention was just to give him a tip for taking pics with our own camera. But we ended up buying some of the photos he took - and in most we are in ridiculous poses, almost parodies that looked photo shopped. Ended up calling him the wedding photographer of Agra.
Finally...Travelers checks?? Wow, I had no idea they still existed.
May 14th, 2015, 11:17 PM
#40
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