I am going to India for 17 days in late Dec/Jan. The travel agent I'm using has recommended spending only 1 night each in Delhi and Varanasi. Should there be more time spent here?
Also has anyone been to the Panna Tiger Reserve and the Jawai Leopard Camp? Worth spending time here?

I think it's always a bad idea to spend one just night anywhere. And those are two major places you'll want time to explore. I'd say two nights minimum and many would suggest three nights is the absolute minimum you should send in those two places.

Be aware that many travel agents will schedule you for many destinations, hoping you will think you are getting a great deal - look how many places you're visiting! But in fact, the more places you visit, the more time you spend in transit, so the less time you spend doing/seeing/experiencing what you came for.

I agree with Kathie - too little time in both places. We'd be happy to comment on your entire itinerary, if you'd like...

Thanks Kathie and Craig. It's hard because you want to see those sights that are memorable while at the same time not feeling like you're running around from place to place. I'll post my itinerary when it seems more complete. Right now deciding on what to include what not to include. Are either of you familiar with the Leopard Camp and Tiger Reserve? Is it worth going to the Tiger reserve for a safari? I tend not to do this kind of thing as I'm concerned about the way the animals are treated and I also want to stay clear of "touristy" kinds of experiences. What are your thoughts?

Can't help you with the reserves, but if you are limited on time, I think one night in Delhi is enough. We spent one night and two full days there - it didn't feel too rushed and we saw and did a lot (with a driver but no guide). We are city people, but Delhi is not a walking city and lacked the charm of other places we visited. For me the magic of India was more in the smaller cities and rural areas. I would definitely recommend spending more time in Varanasi - We had three days and I would have been happy with a week there.

I can't imagine a week in Varanasi unless for religious purposes..

for me 3 days in delhi seems right... 2 in agra... 3 in Jaipur.. 2-3 in Udaipur.. 2-3 in jodhpur and jailsmere (sp).

I know nothing of the preserves

In general, having used an Indian agent for my first trip to India years ago, it's a good idea. However, if you want an optimum experience in the time you have, do your own homework! Kathie's description of how they work, above, is absolutely true and they believe squeezing in as much as possible is what western tourists want. My preference, on the other hand, is for fewer stops to soak up the experience. So pick the places that are most important to YOU, including hotels or style of accommodation, and be VERY firm. They will often relentlessly attempt to steer you in the direction they believe is best (for you & them) and you must not give in. There will no doubt be lots of back & forth before you arrive at your very own trip in the end. But, again, be firm. You'll be rewarded in the end, as long as you do your due diligence and know what you want.

Lecture over.

Thanks everyone for your comments and I think given my way of traveling and some of the advice that I want to rethink my trip completely.
Has anyone spent any time in Maheshwar and Bhopal. Is Maheshwar a place to spend a few days?

I thought rather than do the trip most people do I would go a little off the beaten path (not that much though cause I'm still going to Varanasi, Agra and landing/taking off from Delhi). For my first trip am I going to miss something amazing by not following my original plan?

Thanks for your help.

No matter what you include in the time you have, you're going to miss far more than you can include. It's a huge country, with thousands of things to see and travel is slower than in other places you may have been. Pare down the destinations to those you feel give you most for your effort, stay longer than you might elsewhere and know that if you enjoy India, you'll be back and will see more then. The faster you go the less you'll see and in India, more than in other places.

Thoughts on your comments above, if you haven't been to India, you don't know what your "way of traveling" might look like there. I, for instance, tend to travel slow and I travel even slower than that in India. My feeling regarding "off the beaten path" is, don't kid yourself, if you've heard of it, plenty of others have too. Just pick a few spots that sound good and make sense geographically.

Thank MmePerdu. I appreciate the advise. I too like to travel slowly but when it comes to places so far from home I for one hope that at least I get to see those places/people/sites that stay with me long after I leave. I am looking not only for sites but for experiences.

It was recommended that I stay in two places for several days each as a base - Maheshwar and at an outpost in Bundelkand not far from Khajuraho, the Panna Tiger Reserve, Ajaygar Fort. I was wondering if anyone had spent any time in these areas.

ESPECIALLY if you're traveling in December/January, please take into account the fog. That will inevitably slow down your travel by definition of when you're there (almost guaranteed flight delays or cancelations and road delays due to fog). If you opt for doing 1 night stays in places you absolutely run the risk of losing a chance to see a place due to fog. That would be my biggest warning to you.

We travel fast and furious, usually packing in as much as we can in the time we have. In India you can do this but you really need to be informed about where you choose to stay and see quick and where you spend more time (where it's deserved). Delhi, to me, for instance, I would never spend 3 nights in again. We did and we saw everything there was to see in 1.5 days and were ready to move on. Varanasi, for instance, we were in for 2 nights but wish we had stayed another 1 or 2 nights because there's so much ambience to soak up there. But, yes, do more research and I know you'll figure out something that works best for you!

(Feel free to read my recent 3/4 completed trip report by clicking on my name). I detail quite a bit of the frustration of the fog as well as moving around too fast and trying to see too much.

When I had visited Panna National Park,some years previously, sadly, the tigers were being eliminated as never before! All we could see were some Sambhars with good trophy-horns, The Blue Bulls and some bird life. I am told the tiger situation has improved now.
Jawai Dam area, in Rajasthan, has a healthy population of leopards. These can be watched amongst the outcrop of rocks, in the revenue lands, on an evening jeep safari.
However, do ensure that in your zeal for taking off-beat destinations or doing something different, one does not bypass the main attractions offered by a tour of India.
Happy travels!

I visited Bhopal in 2001 (see wilhelmswords.com/asia2001 ). The town itself is not especially worth seeing, but I definitely liked Sanchi, just outside, and was interested in the "cave" paintings at Bhimbetka.

Thanks all for your replies. Will check out your reports for more info. Will have to figure out which sites to include coupled with which experiences I want to have. I keep hearing from other travelers that their trip to India was great but that it was work, not a vacation. I would like to have more of a balance. It seems that's harder to come by. Thank you all for your input. If you have more info that would be helpful, please let me know. Thanks again.

Yes, travel in India can be hard work. Going high end, with a car and driver and top hotels will make things easier, but also provides a layer of insulation from India. If you want to just relax you might prefer time in Kerala or Goa to the north.

The best way to introduce relaxation in India (and most places, for that matter) is to stay longer, move less. One would think it would be obvious but I suspect those who mention the difficulties most haven't tried it yet. Moving more often means seeing more road, less of the places you stop. You can skim the surface and move on but I find that not very satisfying. Since India is harder work than many countries to move, the answer often is to not move, balanced with seeing your very top picks of places. Keep in mind, they need not all be seen on one trip. Movement can be a difficult urge to overcome but the rewards are great. Different and better, I think. Just keep it in mind.