Impressions from our three week trip to India February 2013
Mar 7th, 2013, 09:30 PM
#21
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Elainee,
We just returned from India as well and we were in Varanasi as well. You did not describe all the naked Holy Men (Sadhus) down by the banks of the river. I probably had some of the best photos I have ever taken, right out of National Geographic. The funniest were the naked Holy Men reading the paper in the morning. My friends and family could not believe the pictures.
We just returned from India as well and we were in Varanasi as well. You did not describe all the naked Holy Men (Sadhus) down by the banks of the river. I probably had some of the best photos I have ever taken, right out of National Geographic. The funniest were the naked Holy Men reading the paper in the morning. My friends and family could not believe the pictures.
Mar 8th, 2013, 02:49 AM
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Missed those guys and the naked men covered in white. But I did see some lovely ladies who lost their clothes taking the Ganges dip. It was quite a scene!
Could you email me the Holy Men catching up on the news??
[email protected]
Could you email me the Holy Men catching up on the news??
[email protected]
Mar 8th, 2013, 05:05 AM
#23
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I'm reliving our trip through your observations. We too did not stay on the river in Varanasi. We were happy to observe the action on the river, and then retire to our quiet, modern hotel away from the river.
Mar 8th, 2013, 05:13 AM
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If it’s Tuesday, it must be Agra
How fast do you want to travel? How much do you want to see? What is important to you?
These are really important questions on any trip. But in India where roads are sometimes not good, and hot spots are incredibly crowded, it is good to rethink priorities.
Example…my DH wanted to go to the Starbucks in Delhi. Sounds easy. It is in Connaugh Place and we were near there. Not so easy. The traffic was almost at a standstill (and that includes all the extra lanes), the parking a joke, and the line for Starbucks was five thick around the block. This Starbucks is a mecca for upscale Delhi teens who are also happy just to have their photo taken (on cellphone, of course) in front of the store. Interesting to see, but no way to get a coffee to go.
Better example….my DD and her family were in Rajasthan several years ago for a Christmas holiday. When we planned our trip she strongly suggested that we not overnight at Chattrasagar between Jaipur and Jodphur. She said the roads were terrible, a very long drive and it seemed out of the way. And there was nothing special there. This tented camp sounded good to me so we included it. It was very much a highlight of our trip. Even tho we have stayed at tented camps in our African safaris and very nice camps they were, this camp set a new standard for beauty, service, special experience. The two men who run it are beyond charming and helpful. We got there about 2pm, had a lovely lunch overlooking the lake, relaxed for a short time and then took the included two hour bird walk. I LOVE bird walks. They provided excellent binoculars for everyone, had a spotting scope (carried by a native dress local who really knew his birds). When my DH did not feel well they called for a jeep to bring him back to the camp. After the great bird walk we all had drinks (included) around pit fires in front of the lake. Then dinner, with included wine, where they came to your table with serving dishes. No menu but the food was delicious, fresh, local, interesting especially the goat stew. Tasted just like veal. Many guests refused the goat but they missed something really good. When we returned to our tent after dinner before they served the tea, they brought tea to our tent a few minutes later.
Why didn’t my DD like this place. They arrived after dark. No bird walk for them. Wanted to have dinner immediately (the children were tired and hungry). They certainly did not want to wait until 8pm for dinner and eat goat. The cook made pasta for the kids before the group dinner. They went to bed as soon as possible and were surprised the next morning how beautiful the place was. They left immediately after an early breakfast. Not a great experience. Seems to me they were traveling too fast. And they are not the only ones who have crowded too much into a trip.
It all depends on your preferences. Dogster wanted to stay in one place, sit at a tea stall and view the local scene (and maybe get a shave). An Indian family wrote a trip report in which they described and loved getting up at the crack of dawn, touring in detail every possible temple site. Both styles work. But, factor in the fatigue you will experience and plan a trip that works for you.
How fast do you want to travel? How much do you want to see? What is important to you?
These are really important questions on any trip. But in India where roads are sometimes not good, and hot spots are incredibly crowded, it is good to rethink priorities.
Example…my DH wanted to go to the Starbucks in Delhi. Sounds easy. It is in Connaugh Place and we were near there. Not so easy. The traffic was almost at a standstill (and that includes all the extra lanes), the parking a joke, and the line for Starbucks was five thick around the block. This Starbucks is a mecca for upscale Delhi teens who are also happy just to have their photo taken (on cellphone, of course) in front of the store. Interesting to see, but no way to get a coffee to go.
Better example….my DD and her family were in Rajasthan several years ago for a Christmas holiday. When we planned our trip she strongly suggested that we not overnight at Chattrasagar between Jaipur and Jodphur. She said the roads were terrible, a very long drive and it seemed out of the way. And there was nothing special there. This tented camp sounded good to me so we included it. It was very much a highlight of our trip. Even tho we have stayed at tented camps in our African safaris and very nice camps they were, this camp set a new standard for beauty, service, special experience. The two men who run it are beyond charming and helpful. We got there about 2pm, had a lovely lunch overlooking the lake, relaxed for a short time and then took the included two hour bird walk. I LOVE bird walks. They provided excellent binoculars for everyone, had a spotting scope (carried by a native dress local who really knew his birds). When my DH did not feel well they called for a jeep to bring him back to the camp. After the great bird walk we all had drinks (included) around pit fires in front of the lake. Then dinner, with included wine, where they came to your table with serving dishes. No menu but the food was delicious, fresh, local, interesting especially the goat stew. Tasted just like veal. Many guests refused the goat but they missed something really good. When we returned to our tent after dinner before they served the tea, they brought tea to our tent a few minutes later.
Why didn’t my DD like this place. They arrived after dark. No bird walk for them. Wanted to have dinner immediately (the children were tired and hungry). They certainly did not want to wait until 8pm for dinner and eat goat. The cook made pasta for the kids before the group dinner. They went to bed as soon as possible and were surprised the next morning how beautiful the place was. They left immediately after an early breakfast. Not a great experience. Seems to me they were traveling too fast. And they are not the only ones who have crowded too much into a trip.
It all depends on your preferences. Dogster wanted to stay in one place, sit at a tea stall and view the local scene (and maybe get a shave). An Indian family wrote a trip report in which they described and loved getting up at the crack of dawn, touring in detail every possible temple site. Both styles work. But, factor in the fatigue you will experience and plan a trip that works for you.
Mar 8th, 2013, 01:51 PM
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Elainee, My wife and I spent 17 days in India in 2006. It was our first stop on our round the world trip. We, too, used VP Singh as our Agent and Guide. At that time the Company was VP and his wife. I am happy to see that today his business is thriving and he is receiving many good reviews.
Quite frankly, he made India come alive for my wife and myself. He introduced us to the people, the small villages and the culture, and not just the larger cities. He is just the BEST, and we recommend him unqualifiedly.
Originally I was skeptical about visiting India but, in retrospect, it was one of the highlights of the trip and I often think about the country and its people.
Quite frankly, he made India come alive for my wife and myself. He introduced us to the people, the small villages and the culture, and not just the larger cities. He is just the BEST, and we recommend him unqualifiedly.
Originally I was skeptical about visiting India but, in retrospect, it was one of the highlights of the trip and I often think about the country and its people.
Mar 10th, 2013, 07:37 AM
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We all shop in India
I don’t like to shop. I hate to bargain. Too much choice confuses me. I especially don’t want a salesperson hovering over me. Sitting on a couch with a table and tea service in front of me, makes me look for the nearest exit. So, shopping in India is not for me. But, everyone, including me, has to shop in India.
What did I want to buy in India? Cotton tunics for my daily wear, one nice traditional picture for framing, a few “somethings” for my grandkids, and a small metal elephant. I got everything but the elephant.
Cotton tunics…Go to the nearest Anokhi. I love Anokhi. I would buy stock in Anokhi. Maybe I should open one in NYC. I expressed my desire to do this shopping and Mr. Singh provided me with a lady guide to take me shopping. I don’t know which Anoki she took me to. It was in a middle class neighborhood with a shopping strip. The Anokhi was upstairs and had two floors. It had lots of stuff. A salesclerk found tops in my size and I tried them on to be vetted by my guide. I bought four tops and a few scarves which I wore for the rest of the trip. They are the most comfortable, softest cotton, easy to wear tops ever. I hope they look “normal” in NYC this summer. I went to Anokhi in Jaipur as well. There the shop was in an upscale area with a nice café on the same floor and a very nice restaurant on the next floor. The shop was filled with Western teen girls who seemed to go to a local school. A good selection here as well. Anokhi also sells lovely housegoods, quilts, tablecloths. I liked them as well but concentrated on clothes for me. I bought two sundresses and another top. Lots of Western tourists buy at Anokhi but I also saw their clothes on Indian women as well. By the way, all the tops were less than $20 each. The Anokhi at the City Palace in Udipur was really expensive and a small selection. At our hotels and tourist attractions, I saw lots of tourists wearing Indian tunic tops. FYI…Anokhi and Fabindia have price tags with fixed prices.
I also went to Fabindia in Jodhpur. It was in a strange area with few other non-necessity stores. But it was fine. Got one more top, another dress, a shirt of my DH, a nice vest for our driver, pink soap for the grandkids. The prices at Fabindia were slightly more that Anokhi tho the books say the reverse is true.
I wanted to buy a traditional painting and they are seen everywhere in shops. I bought mine at the Mehrangarh Museum shop in Jodhpur. It was not inexpensive and I hope buying it there gave me some quality control.
In Jodhpur our guide talked me into going into Llji Handicarfts Emporium where they have gorgeous fabrics three floors underground in a firetrap. Sitting on a couch against the far wall in a huge room we are shown one beautiful spread after another. But they were beautiful and made for Etro, Hermes, etc. Plus Richard Gere bought his 185 pashminas there and they just had one left. So I bought 2 bedspreads, (Etro and I forget who else) and a beautiful throw. Funny, when I was telling my brother about these purchases, he had been in the same shop several years ago and was shown the same stuff. Real stuff or good sales pitch??? But after making these purchases, late that night I realized that bedspreads without pillow shams would be a problem. So back we went in the morning and selected material and they delivered the shams the next morning. I carried the bedspreads with me. Probably should have had them shipped. Internal flights in India seriously weigh your luggage. They do charge extra for the slightest overweight. Plus, I got charged for a very small carryon with wheels which they made me send thru. I still like my bedspreads.
The Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace gift shop in Jodpur has the best men’s knit shirts at very reasonabale prices. If you know a guy who wants polo shirts with a Indian (horse) polo logo, here they are. They run small. These shirts are a good excuse to see this amazing hotel. Beyond over the top in every way. Hard to believe it was built in the 20th century. Look at the stuffed tigers and lions in the staircase.
I don’t like to shop. I hate to bargain. Too much choice confuses me. I especially don’t want a salesperson hovering over me. Sitting on a couch with a table and tea service in front of me, makes me look for the nearest exit. So, shopping in India is not for me. But, everyone, including me, has to shop in India.
What did I want to buy in India? Cotton tunics for my daily wear, one nice traditional picture for framing, a few “somethings” for my grandkids, and a small metal elephant. I got everything but the elephant.
Cotton tunics…Go to the nearest Anokhi. I love Anokhi. I would buy stock in Anokhi. Maybe I should open one in NYC. I expressed my desire to do this shopping and Mr. Singh provided me with a lady guide to take me shopping. I don’t know which Anoki she took me to. It was in a middle class neighborhood with a shopping strip. The Anokhi was upstairs and had two floors. It had lots of stuff. A salesclerk found tops in my size and I tried them on to be vetted by my guide. I bought four tops and a few scarves which I wore for the rest of the trip. They are the most comfortable, softest cotton, easy to wear tops ever. I hope they look “normal” in NYC this summer. I went to Anokhi in Jaipur as well. There the shop was in an upscale area with a nice café on the same floor and a very nice restaurant on the next floor. The shop was filled with Western teen girls who seemed to go to a local school. A good selection here as well. Anokhi also sells lovely housegoods, quilts, tablecloths. I liked them as well but concentrated on clothes for me. I bought two sundresses and another top. Lots of Western tourists buy at Anokhi but I also saw their clothes on Indian women as well. By the way, all the tops were less than $20 each. The Anokhi at the City Palace in Udipur was really expensive and a small selection. At our hotels and tourist attractions, I saw lots of tourists wearing Indian tunic tops. FYI…Anokhi and Fabindia have price tags with fixed prices.
I also went to Fabindia in Jodhpur. It was in a strange area with few other non-necessity stores. But it was fine. Got one more top, another dress, a shirt of my DH, a nice vest for our driver, pink soap for the grandkids. The prices at Fabindia were slightly more that Anokhi tho the books say the reverse is true.
I wanted to buy a traditional painting and they are seen everywhere in shops. I bought mine at the Mehrangarh Museum shop in Jodhpur. It was not inexpensive and I hope buying it there gave me some quality control.
In Jodhpur our guide talked me into going into Llji Handicarfts Emporium where they have gorgeous fabrics three floors underground in a firetrap. Sitting on a couch against the far wall in a huge room we are shown one beautiful spread after another. But they were beautiful and made for Etro, Hermes, etc. Plus Richard Gere bought his 185 pashminas there and they just had one left. So I bought 2 bedspreads, (Etro and I forget who else) and a beautiful throw. Funny, when I was telling my brother about these purchases, he had been in the same shop several years ago and was shown the same stuff. Real stuff or good sales pitch??? But after making these purchases, late that night I realized that bedspreads without pillow shams would be a problem. So back we went in the morning and selected material and they delivered the shams the next morning. I carried the bedspreads with me. Probably should have had them shipped. Internal flights in India seriously weigh your luggage. They do charge extra for the slightest overweight. Plus, I got charged for a very small carryon with wheels which they made me send thru. I still like my bedspreads.
The Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace gift shop in Jodpur has the best men’s knit shirts at very reasonabale prices. If you know a guy who wants polo shirts with a Indian (horse) polo logo, here they are. They run small. These shirts are a good excuse to see this amazing hotel. Beyond over the top in every way. Hard to believe it was built in the 20th century. Look at the stuffed tigers and lions in the staircase.
Mar 10th, 2013, 02:42 PM
#32
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Was the shop in Jodhpur really underground? Sounds like the one we went to but ours was three rickety stories above ground. Perhaps it sank under the weight of all the goods. But then again our famous patrons were different. Great report.
Mar 11th, 2013, 12:41 PM
#37
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Crosscheck, which Anokhi did you go to in Delhi....sounds like shopping heaven to me!
Elainee, Thank you so much for the great report....I am adding notes from your report to my trip plan. I can hardly wait to go ...only four more weeks.
Elainee, Thank you so much for the great report....I am adding notes from your report to my trip plan. I can hardly wait to go ...only four more weeks.
Mar 12th, 2013, 12:31 PM
#39
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Itinerary Rajasthan February 2013
Delhi The Imperial Hotel 4 nights (Fly to Varanasi)
Varanasi Taj Nadesar Palace 2 nights (Fly to Agra…oops, drive from Khajuraho 500km)
Agra Oberois Amar Vilas 2 nights (Drive)
Jaipur Oberois Raj Vilas 2 nights ( Drive)
Nimaj Chattrasagar 1 night (Drive)
Jodhpur Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace 2 nights (Drive)
Deogarh Deogarh Mahal 1 night (Drive)
Devi Garh Devi Darh 2 nights (Drive)
Udaipur Udai Vilas 2 nights (Fly to Delhi)
Delhi Oberois Gurgaon 1 night (Fly home)
All hotels were absolutely lovely with every possible comfort and service except Deogarh. Deogarh, a heritage hotel, gets raves on TripAdvisor but we found it rather Marigold Hotel.
There are lots of steps to go anywhere, especially the lunchroom which was up two flights of stairs, across a long outdoor passage and up a few more steps, and the stairwells are not all well lighted at night. Our room(s) were on different levels. I have no idea why anyone staying a night or two would want 2 sitting rooms, a bedroom, and a lovely terrace room. The sitting rooms which were interior and quite dark were extraneous for us. The terrace was lovely but the Jacuzzi would have fit a small 6 year old and there was no hot water anyway. And no hot water in the bathroom. The hotel tried but not everything worked.
The next day we went to the Jain Temple in Ranakpur. We passed a lovely new hotel complex not far from the temple where we stopped to use the facilities. It seemed very nice and had beautiful kitchen gardens. I took the card but can’t find it. We would much have preferred staying there.
There was a time in our lives when staying in the heritage hotels would have been fun. You never knew quite what you were going to get. Now we wanted to know that everything would work and there would be no unpleasant surprises. Devi Garh is a heritage property but restored magnificently. The NYC Met Museum includes it for an extensive property tour. Yet even there we rejected our first room since it had loft beds and I was concerned that we might fall down the steps next to the bed at night. One level between bed and bath is best for us.
Finally, our trip was excellent. I highly recommend going to India. It was a much easier trip than we expected. I had thought of India as the cities we were going to visit. Since we were driven between cities, we saw so much of rural India. I never expected to see mountains on this trip. We spend most of one day on mountain roads. I saw arid/desert areas, and fertile farms. We passed through many villages. In some villages most of the vehicles were tractors. Often we saw people being transported (some to weddings) in carts pulled by tractors. Not what I expected. Go to India…you will be amazed!
Delhi The Imperial Hotel 4 nights (Fly to Varanasi)
Varanasi Taj Nadesar Palace 2 nights (Fly to Agra…oops, drive from Khajuraho 500km)
Agra Oberois Amar Vilas 2 nights (Drive)
Jaipur Oberois Raj Vilas 2 nights ( Drive)
Nimaj Chattrasagar 1 night (Drive)
Jodhpur Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace 2 nights (Drive)
Deogarh Deogarh Mahal 1 night (Drive)
Devi Garh Devi Darh 2 nights (Drive)
Udaipur Udai Vilas 2 nights (Fly to Delhi)
Delhi Oberois Gurgaon 1 night (Fly home)
All hotels were absolutely lovely with every possible comfort and service except Deogarh. Deogarh, a heritage hotel, gets raves on TripAdvisor but we found it rather Marigold Hotel.
There are lots of steps to go anywhere, especially the lunchroom which was up two flights of stairs, across a long outdoor passage and up a few more steps, and the stairwells are not all well lighted at night. Our room(s) were on different levels. I have no idea why anyone staying a night or two would want 2 sitting rooms, a bedroom, and a lovely terrace room. The sitting rooms which were interior and quite dark were extraneous for us. The terrace was lovely but the Jacuzzi would have fit a small 6 year old and there was no hot water anyway. And no hot water in the bathroom. The hotel tried but not everything worked.
The next day we went to the Jain Temple in Ranakpur. We passed a lovely new hotel complex not far from the temple where we stopped to use the facilities. It seemed very nice and had beautiful kitchen gardens. I took the card but can’t find it. We would much have preferred staying there.
There was a time in our lives when staying in the heritage hotels would have been fun. You never knew quite what you were going to get. Now we wanted to know that everything would work and there would be no unpleasant surprises. Devi Garh is a heritage property but restored magnificently. The NYC Met Museum includes it for an extensive property tour. Yet even there we rejected our first room since it had loft beds and I was concerned that we might fall down the steps next to the bed at night. One level between bed and bath is best for us.
Finally, our trip was excellent. I highly recommend going to India. It was a much easier trip than we expected. I had thought of India as the cities we were going to visit. Since we were driven between cities, we saw so much of rural India. I never expected to see mountains on this trip. We spend most of one day on mountain roads. I saw arid/desert areas, and fertile farms. We passed through many villages. In some villages most of the vehicles were tractors. Often we saw people being transported (some to weddings) in carts pulled by tractors. Not what I expected. Go to India…you will be amazed!
Mar 12th, 2013, 12:38 PM
#40
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i think there are all levels of heritage hotels... the ones we stayed at were all perfect. i could not stay in a place with no hot water... how about cleaning the dishes??? yuck..
i loved your report..
it makes me want to return to india---TODAY.
i loved your report..
it makes me want to return to india---TODAY.
