Holiday in Cambodia - plus Myanmar for a wedding.
Nov 26th, 2015, 08:28 PM
#44
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It's about a kilometre to the school from our guesthouse, down a dusty narrow road. We've walked there a few times now, and today is no different.
About half way is a huge condo construction site, up to about seven stories now. The scaffolding is all bamboo. We watched as the concrete mixer trucks lined up. Each had a small boy riding shot gun on the top of the truck with a wooden pole. His job was to lift up the power lines to let the trucks pass underneath.
We were asked what we wanted to do today, and the one thing I wanted to accomplish was some shopping. The shopping is not for us, but rather gifts for our teacher friends, and something special for the parents of Suzan who had so kindly invited us to their home and provided a lovely lunch on Sunday.
It's our last night in Mandalay on Wednesday and we have invited 10 teachers to join us for dinner at the guest house.
The giving of gifts is a big part of Myanmar culture. I can't tell you how many jade bracelets I have. We left Australia with about 10 kg each, and only brought a gift for the new baby. I'd read that Citymart now accepted credit cards, so off we go, lucky to jag the schools car and driver, plus two teacher friends to accompany us. Gifts chosen, I find at check out that credit cards are only accepted in Yangon, oh well.
We bought some door mats for the school, (that's what they wanted) and strangely, personal care products for the teachers, like body lotion, deodorant and moisturiser.
They wanted to write our names on the doormats, we laughed at the idea of a hundred or so people a day wiping their feet on us. The best thing we found was an electric tennis racket to kill mosquitos. So excited about taking that home with us, I've heard of them via some Thai forums, but have never seen them for sale in Australia. Hope I can get it through customs.
About half way is a huge condo construction site, up to about seven stories now. The scaffolding is all bamboo. We watched as the concrete mixer trucks lined up. Each had a small boy riding shot gun on the top of the truck with a wooden pole. His job was to lift up the power lines to let the trucks pass underneath.
We were asked what we wanted to do today, and the one thing I wanted to accomplish was some shopping. The shopping is not for us, but rather gifts for our teacher friends, and something special for the parents of Suzan who had so kindly invited us to their home and provided a lovely lunch on Sunday.
It's our last night in Mandalay on Wednesday and we have invited 10 teachers to join us for dinner at the guest house.
The giving of gifts is a big part of Myanmar culture. I can't tell you how many jade bracelets I have. We left Australia with about 10 kg each, and only brought a gift for the new baby. I'd read that Citymart now accepted credit cards, so off we go, lucky to jag the schools car and driver, plus two teacher friends to accompany us. Gifts chosen, I find at check out that credit cards are only accepted in Yangon, oh well.
We bought some door mats for the school, (that's what they wanted) and strangely, personal care products for the teachers, like body lotion, deodorant and moisturiser.
They wanted to write our names on the doormats, we laughed at the idea of a hundred or so people a day wiping their feet on us. The best thing we found was an electric tennis racket to kill mosquitos. So excited about taking that home with us, I've heard of them via some Thai forums, but have never seen them for sale in Australia. Hope I can get it through customs.
Nov 27th, 2015, 09:27 PM
#47
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Our last full day in Mandalay and again we are in a classroom, this time with 12 year olds. The kids are usually shy at first, but soon start firing questions at us. What's your favourite colour, favourite animal, favourite football team, who's your president (I stumbled here, we've had four in the past two years and I went blank, DH came to the rescue) plus many many more.
I was wearing a shirt made from an aboriginal print fabric which featured emus. I tried to explain the Australian coat of arms (which has an emu and a kangaroo) and the significance of the fact that these two native species can't walk backwards. I think they got it, you never know for sure.
It's chaotic in the school grounds. As the number of buildings grow, so the playground shrinks. This means the lane that runs the length of the narrow block is filled with football games, and boys pounding the ball(s) into makeshift goals. I only got hit once.
In the afternoon our friendly taxi driver took us out in the countryside to another monastic school, plus several temples and viewpoints. He charged us 15,000 kyat for about 3 hours, and then offered a discount ! His name is Myint Naing Tun or you can call him U Nigh ph 959 402761808. Tell him Caroline from Australia recommended his services, he will be most chuffed.
Dinner at our guest house with the teachers was great. The staff at Peacock lodge made everyone feel welcome and we were served many dishes including a fish curry that was brilliant.
I was wearing a shirt made from an aboriginal print fabric which featured emus. I tried to explain the Australian coat of arms (which has an emu and a kangaroo) and the significance of the fact that these two native species can't walk backwards. I think they got it, you never know for sure.
It's chaotic in the school grounds. As the number of buildings grow, so the playground shrinks. This means the lane that runs the length of the narrow block is filled with football games, and boys pounding the ball(s) into makeshift goals. I only got hit once.
In the afternoon our friendly taxi driver took us out in the countryside to another monastic school, plus several temples and viewpoints. He charged us 15,000 kyat for about 3 hours, and then offered a discount ! His name is Myint Naing Tun or you can call him U Nigh ph 959 402761808. Tell him Caroline from Australia recommended his services, he will be most chuffed.
Dinner at our guest house with the teachers was great. The staff at Peacock lodge made everyone feel welcome and we were served many dishes including a fish curry that was brilliant.
Nov 28th, 2015, 12:18 AM
#48
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Leaving Mandalay was bittersweet. Firstly our taxi driver from yesterday came with two gifts, one for me, one for an Australian woman he knows who lives in Melbourne. Melbourne is 2000 km from where we live, the postage will cost more than the present, but I will send it. The entire staff came to the gate to farewell us, handshakes all round and a hug and kiss for me from mama. That was the sweet bit, the bitter bit was a taxi with seats seemingly made from wood and no suspension for the one hour ride to the airport.
Our AirAsia flight to Bangkok was uneventful, although again we had the passenger from hell sitting next to us. He was an extremely overweight Brit, who started snoring before we even pushed back from the gate. When he wasn't snoring he was exploring his nasal cavities. Why do people think that's okay in public ?
DMK was a zoo. Actually, most animals are better behaved than the unruly Chinese tour groups, who have no concept of personal space. I did the "when in Rome" trick, and pushed and shoved just like them.
We had a few hours to kill and spent the time in a coffee shop enjoying fast internet at last. My electric tennis racquet was denied boarding, bummer. We gifted it to the check in agent, in return we were given seats in the priority boarding section, row 5. This meant when arriving in Siem Reap we were second in line for visa on arrival, and made it out of the airport very swiftly.
Taxi to 7 Candles Guesthouse cost $7 and took about 15 minutes. We checked in, were shown to our room, and sweated while the aircon started to cool the blisteringly hot room. I was reading the "Cambodian potty training 101" notice next to the toilet which details use of the bum gun and the importance of not flushing toilet paper, when everything went black. Yes, we had a power outage that affected the whole country apparently. I felt my way to the iPhone for its torch capability.
The guesthouse has a generator which soon kicked in, but it only powers lights, so no aircon for us. We continued to sweat it out on the balcony with a few other westerners, DH was drenched.
The power came back on about an hour later, it was near midnight, we crashed.
Our AirAsia flight to Bangkok was uneventful, although again we had the passenger from hell sitting next to us. He was an extremely overweight Brit, who started snoring before we even pushed back from the gate. When he wasn't snoring he was exploring his nasal cavities. Why do people think that's okay in public ?
DMK was a zoo. Actually, most animals are better behaved than the unruly Chinese tour groups, who have no concept of personal space. I did the "when in Rome" trick, and pushed and shoved just like them.
We had a few hours to kill and spent the time in a coffee shop enjoying fast internet at last. My electric tennis racquet was denied boarding, bummer. We gifted it to the check in agent, in return we were given seats in the priority boarding section, row 5. This meant when arriving in Siem Reap we were second in line for visa on arrival, and made it out of the airport very swiftly.
Taxi to 7 Candles Guesthouse cost $7 and took about 15 minutes. We checked in, were shown to our room, and sweated while the aircon started to cool the blisteringly hot room. I was reading the "Cambodian potty training 101" notice next to the toilet which details use of the bum gun and the importance of not flushing toilet paper, when everything went black. Yes, we had a power outage that affected the whole country apparently. I felt my way to the iPhone for its torch capability.
The guesthouse has a generator which soon kicked in, but it only powers lights, so no aircon for us. We continued to sweat it out on the balcony with a few other westerners, DH was drenched.
The power came back on about an hour later, it was near midnight, we crashed.
Nov 28th, 2015, 03:37 AM
#49
Oh, my, what an adventure you are having! I hope that the power came on soon enough and you do have a/c in your guest house by now!
<<When he wasn't snoring he was exploring his nasal cavities. >>
sartoric, I love your way with words! You have written some memorable phrases, and this one really had me laughing!
What an amazing trip you've had in Myanmar - the relationships you have built with the teachers is impressive and given you such a special connection to the country. I've really enjoyed reading about your experiences.
<<When he wasn't snoring he was exploring his nasal cavities. >>
sartoric, I love your way with words! You have written some memorable phrases, and this one really had me laughing!
What an amazing trip you've had in Myanmar - the relationships you have built with the teachers is impressive and given you such a special connection to the country. I've really enjoyed reading about your experiences.
Nov 28th, 2015, 04:49 AM
#51
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Enjoying your report sartoric.
"most animals are better behaved than the unruly Chinese tour groups, who have no concept of personal space" - must have been the same bunch that followed us all around Asia this year! Thought we had escaped them when we got to New Zealand but no. They turned up at several campsites. Seems there is no escape these days.
Your "when in Rome" approach will be needed big time when you go to Angkor!
"most animals are better behaved than the unruly Chinese tour groups, who have no concept of personal space" - must have been the same bunch that followed us all around Asia this year! Thought we had escaped them when we got to New Zealand but no. They turned up at several campsites. Seems there is no escape these days.
Your "when in Rome" approach will be needed big time when you go to Angkor!
Nov 28th, 2015, 07:24 AM
#53
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Crellston + 1.
They travel on all budgets.
So before making a booking it's not a bad idea to chek out the Trip Advisor hotel reviews.
Really enjoying the thread. Nice to read something out of the norm.
They travel on all budgets.
So before making a booking it's not a bad idea to chek out the Trip Advisor hotel reviews.
Really enjoying the thread. Nice to read something out of the norm.
Nov 28th, 2015, 03:51 PM
#54
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Thanks for your comments, here's the next bit.
Our first full day in Cambodia sees us out shopping. DH has fallen in love with some cotton elastic waisted trousers that we bought in Thailand last year. So much so, it is difficult to get them off him long enough to get them washed. He also loves the cotton shirt that goes with them, so 2 more trousers, 2 more shirts later and he's a happy chappy. Something is very wrong with this picture, he has new clothes, and I have nada, it's usually the other way around.
We enjoyed Vietnamese spring rolls wrapped in lettuce with mint and other herbs at a place called the Soup Dragon. It's on the corner of Pub St in the old town area. Our two other meals so far have been Cambodian, but were bland and not worthy of mention. Maybe we just ordered the wrong stuff.
The 7 Candles Guesthouse has a very pleasant rooftop bar area, with a giant swing. It's the size of a queen bed, suspended on steel cables from the rafters. So relaxing to rock in the breeze. I'm stealing this idea for my back deck at home. I'm good at stealing ideas, we have a mural on the wall stolen from a trip to India, and a thatched pavilion stolen from Bali.
I can't help noticing the vast difference in attitude between the people of Siem Reap compared to those in Myanmar. SR has been getting tourists for a lot longer I suppose, perhaps giving the people a jaded view of westerners. It really shows, unless they are trying to sell you something. Broad generalisation I know, we've had some fun encounters too.
Our first full day in Cambodia sees us out shopping. DH has fallen in love with some cotton elastic waisted trousers that we bought in Thailand last year. So much so, it is difficult to get them off him long enough to get them washed. He also loves the cotton shirt that goes with them, so 2 more trousers, 2 more shirts later and he's a happy chappy. Something is very wrong with this picture, he has new clothes, and I have nada, it's usually the other way around.
We enjoyed Vietnamese spring rolls wrapped in lettuce with mint and other herbs at a place called the Soup Dragon. It's on the corner of Pub St in the old town area. Our two other meals so far have been Cambodian, but were bland and not worthy of mention. Maybe we just ordered the wrong stuff.
The 7 Candles Guesthouse has a very pleasant rooftop bar area, with a giant swing. It's the size of a queen bed, suspended on steel cables from the rafters. So relaxing to rock in the breeze. I'm stealing this idea for my back deck at home. I'm good at stealing ideas, we have a mural on the wall stolen from a trip to India, and a thatched pavilion stolen from Bali.
I can't help noticing the vast difference in attitude between the people of Siem Reap compared to those in Myanmar. SR has been getting tourists for a lot longer I suppose, perhaps giving the people a jaded view of westerners. It really shows, unless they are trying to sell you something. Broad generalisation I know, we've had some fun encounters too.
Nov 29th, 2015, 05:54 AM
#55
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Day two in Siem Reap, and we eventually get to Artisans D'Angkor. I say eventually because I had asked at reception where the workshop is located and was told just behind Pub St, a five minute ride. One of the guesthouses' tuk tuks was rustled up to take us there. About 20 minutes and many miles later we stop at Sensours D'Angkor....wrong place. I use the phone and Google to show our driver where we want to be, u turn, many more miles. Don't know who caused the confusion, so I gave the driver 20,000 riel (about $5) and he seemed happy enough.
Artisans D'Angkor has many workshops that support disadvantaged people via craft and handiworks. They offer free tours with English speaking guides, (or many other languages) although none were available at the time of our visit. We just lurked and eavesdropped on others. The stone carving was impressive, they have been involved with restoring parts of the Angkor temples complex.
The showroom is air conditioned, has very high quality items and high prices to match. I stopped buying stuff a few years ago, but would recommend this place if you want quality souvenirs.
In the afternoon, I turned right out of the guesthouse and a few doors down found a beauty salon. I got my hair washed and dried. I love the SE Asian shampoo stations where you lie down and tip your head back into the bowl. So much more comfortable than sitting and trying to force your neck into a ceramic mould which fits no one. Cost $1.50.
DH turned left out of the guesthouse and found a barber. He got a number zero buzz cut all over, cost $3 - he got ripped off, ha ha.
Artisans D'Angkor has many workshops that support disadvantaged people via craft and handiworks. They offer free tours with English speaking guides, (or many other languages) although none were available at the time of our visit. We just lurked and eavesdropped on others. The stone carving was impressive, they have been involved with restoring parts of the Angkor temples complex.
The showroom is air conditioned, has very high quality items and high prices to match. I stopped buying stuff a few years ago, but would recommend this place if you want quality souvenirs.
In the afternoon, I turned right out of the guesthouse and a few doors down found a beauty salon. I got my hair washed and dried. I love the SE Asian shampoo stations where you lie down and tip your head back into the bowl. So much more comfortable than sitting and trying to force your neck into a ceramic mould which fits no one. Cost $1.50.
DH turned left out of the guesthouse and found a barber. He got a number zero buzz cut all over, cost $3 - he got ripped off, ha ha.
Nov 29th, 2015, 07:10 AM
#56
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Obviously, you were not just the typical tourist in Myanmar since you had all of those personal connections and unique experiences. If you could take away that factor, would you still say that the comparison you made between people in Myanmar and Siem Reap is valid?
Nov 29th, 2015, 02:53 PM
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Yes I would julies. I considered our special circumstances before writing the words. We had plenty of time without our teacher friends, and felt very welcomed and cared for. It is a broad generalisation, but the feeling I get here is more like being a number who will soon move on.
We live in a tourist town, and I worked in hospitality many years ago, so I can empathise with hotel and restaurant staff. It's not always easy dealing with the public. Some people just aren't suited to the work. My guess is that many here don't have any other option.
We live in a tourist town, and I worked in hospitality many years ago, so I can empathise with hotel and restaurant staff. It's not always easy dealing with the public. Some people just aren't suited to the work. My guess is that many here don't have any other option.
Nov 29th, 2015, 03:18 PM
#58
When I first went to SR in 2002 I wrote that it was busily expanding but still a manageable size, with friendly people. When I went back in 2004 it had grown quite a bit and was a lot more crowded. I have not been back since, but everything I have read says that the number of tourists has soared. I am sure most of the people you interact with in SR these days are there simply to make money. Given the dirt poor situation of much of the population that is entirely understandable, even admirable, but combined with the sheer number of foreigners I can't imagine that it makes for a lot of friendly interaction.
Nov 29th, 2015, 07:11 PM
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Today we went by tuk tuk to Banteay Srei. Our driver is Pisuth, 092764943, he was recommended by a friend at home who supports a school here. Seemed like a really nice guy, the father of four children who are all going to school. It's a long drive but very picturesque with vistas of rice paddies and many lovely wooden houses. The houses are built on stilts and remind me of the old Queenslanders from our home state. The airflow underneath keeps the house cool (well, cooler).
Along the way we stopped at Preah Kahn, lovely carvings and very few people here.
There were many Chinese tour groups at Banteay Srei, two things annoyed me; selfie sticks and umbrellas. To me, umbrellas are for rain, get over your precious white skin, or use sunscreen. As for selfie sticks, well, if your arms aren't long enough, get someone else to take your photo, there's plenty of people willing and able. The selfie stick just adds to isolation.
One tip I've picked up from the guesthouse is to not buy anything from children, it only supports their handlers. So when approached I ask "why aren't you in school ?". This tactic doesn't work on Sunday, stupid me.
We stopped at the land mine museum, what an inspirational man. It's quite a moving experience and well worth the $5 entry fee which also gets you an audio guide.
www.CambodiaLandmineMuseum.org they support children at risk, build schools in remote areas, and continue to clear land mines.
We returned to our favourite Vietnamese restaurant for dinner and had the largest Banh Xeo I've ever seen. Delicious.
Along the way we stopped at Preah Kahn, lovely carvings and very few people here.
There were many Chinese tour groups at Banteay Srei, two things annoyed me; selfie sticks and umbrellas. To me, umbrellas are for rain, get over your precious white skin, or use sunscreen. As for selfie sticks, well, if your arms aren't long enough, get someone else to take your photo, there's plenty of people willing and able. The selfie stick just adds to isolation.
One tip I've picked up from the guesthouse is to not buy anything from children, it only supports their handlers. So when approached I ask "why aren't you in school ?". This tactic doesn't work on Sunday, stupid me.
We stopped at the land mine museum, what an inspirational man. It's quite a moving experience and well worth the $5 entry fee which also gets you an audio guide.
www.CambodiaLandmineMuseum.org they support children at risk, build schools in remote areas, and continue to clear land mines.
We returned to our favourite Vietnamese restaurant for dinner and had the largest Banh Xeo I've ever seen. Delicious.
