lcuy

Oh, and definitely try the blue pumpkin. But go upstairs..They have a bigger menu up there and it is air conditioned. free wifi and long comfortable "beds" too. If you see dessert or something downstairs, tell your waiter and they'll go back down it get it for you!

heymo

Day three...(the day I almost kiled my husband...) got up and gathered all our things together for the flight to Chiang Mai...and as we are literally walking out of our room at the hotel my husband says he can't find his passport. Great...so back in the room we go to look for it. He jokingly says he hopes he didn't wash it...I told him I'd kill him where he stood if he did...and that's exactly what he did! Fortunately, the picture and info was somewhat legible, so we had no trouble getting on the plane to Chiang Mai.

Sgt Kai met us at the airport with his friend Sutthi who would be our guide for the next three days. Sgt. Kai's daughtrer was playing with the symphony in Bangkok that weekend, so he would not be in town and hoped we understood. Of course, we did and explained to Sutthi that we needed to go to the American Consulate right away. We'd called, and though they weren't officially open that day, they told us to come by so the officer on duty could take a look at the passport and see if he4 needed a new one. We were VERY lucky...apparently they allow one emergency case on days that the office is closed...and Bill was it. (another couple of backpackers came along about 10 minutes after we did...they were out of luck.)They told Bill he needed a new passport picture...thankfully we had a couple taken before we left for our Angkor Wat passes...so it certainly came in handy! He filled out all the paperwork and was told to come back between 3-4:30 to pick up his new passport which would only be good for one year.

Sutthi then took us to our hotel...Fern Paradise. It's a little out of town, but we really liked it. Each person has their own lanna-style barn, and each one is named after one of the hunmdreds of species of ferns the owner cultivates. It sits right on the Ping river, and was lovely.

We then went to lunch, and Doi Sutthep. Sutthi took us to a buffet restaurant, which was packed with tourist buses. our least favorite meal of the trip...then off to Doi Sutthep. I wondered if we were walking up the 300 plus steps to the temple, but we took the cable car up instead. (wasn't even debated...)the temple is quite beautiful, and since we only have seen the small temple on the way to the floating market, we are not nearly "templed out" yet! There were many Thai people there, but very few tourists. From there we were taken to a Khum Kantkoe dinner. We were seated on the floor with cushions all around and served dinner while being entertained by tradional Thai dancing. The best part was when one of the female dancers picked Bill to join her on the main floor to dance with her. Priceless. As we were leaving people were flying these fire balloons. I'm not quite sure how to describe them except they looked like white paper bags that were lit from underneath and soared in the air like a hot air balloon. They were a beautiful sight! Another nice day in Thailand... Oh, and we were able to go back and pick up Bill's passport that afternoon with no trouble. That is until we get to the States, I'm sure!

travelduo

The first time we saw those balloons was during Loy Krathong, we were on Koh Chang and in the distance they looked like UFOs!

Glad you liked tong, she is so wonderful!

Enjoying your trip report so far!

heymo

Day four...we're a little tired this morning. There was quite a party going on at the resort (or so we thought, until we asked the owner...turns out it was the firehouse next door!) Sutthi picks us up about 9 to visit Doi Inthanon National Park. We decided not to go all the way to the top...too many tourists according to Sutthi. As we're driving Sutthi is quick to point out all the cars from Bangkok...apparently they all came to Chiang Mai for New Years' weekend!

We visited a few of the waterfalls, then went on a beautiful hike through the forest, passing several more spectacular waterfalls until we reached a Karen village. Apparently this village grows coffee, and boy could you tell! These guys seemed to be spending the day making coffee (and drinking it!) It was strong, but good. They told Sutthi that a buyer from Starbucks had been there recently and placed a large order of beans,5,000 kilos, I think, and they were celebrating! We bought a bag (100 Baht...FAR less than what we all know Starbucks will charge!) and I bought a lovely scarf one of the women was just finishing.

That evening we took a taxi into the city (Fern Paradise has an arrangement with a local taxi service, 200 Baht each way, and they'll pick you up whenever you tell them you want to be picked up) So we went into town for dinner and tried our hand at bargaining at the night market. Bill wanted Western food, so we found a small pizza parlor and had dinner, and had a couple beers at the Irish Pub across the street. Then, the night market. I bought my boss a tie, a couple silk scarves, and a tuk-tuk for our travel Christmas ornament. All together...about 500 Baht. Not bad...Had the taxi pick us up at D2 around 11, then back to the hotel.

heymo

Day Five- last day in Chiang Mai.

We have breakfast at the resort, and had been speaking previously to the owner of the place. He is a very serene, lovely man who instantly puts you into a state of calmness I've not experienced before. I was sharing my love of plants with him, and he offered to give Bill and I a tour of the grounds. He is a retired architect, and when he turned his firm over to his son took the land that had been left to his wife by her family and turned into this place. Nothing in the resort is there without a reason...things that are used to hold plants relates to the history of the area, something neither of would have known if not for touring the place. Then he takes us to his real "Fern Paradise"...a greenhouse filled with hundreds of different species of ferns. With great passion he explains how he cultivates them, how everything that is placed in there is done so with thought to not only the best growing conditions but also to be asthetically pleasing. I asked many questions, and I suppose he liked the fact that I was so interested. He asked me to tell him which fern I liked the best. I chose one, and he then told me he was going to give me spores from that fern to take home and plant myself! I was quite touched, and a little intimidated, I must say. He gave me instructions on how to grow the spores, then turns to Bill and says..."You know, she chose the most expensive fern I have in my entire collection!" No pressure there...I would have liked to have spent more time there. If we go back it's the only place I would stay.

We check out, and Sutthi takes us for an elephant ride. We get a mamma and her baby...and boy, were they hungry! I think the process went something like this...take a step...get a banana. Take another step, banana...and so forth until we were out of bananas. Then there's be another stand with an old woman or man or a couple children selling more bananas...and at 10 Baht a bag of course we always bought more. Meanwhile the baby elephant ran along side me wrapping his trunk around my leg until I'd give him more food...which got to be quite comical. At the end of the ride we brought out Santa hats we'd brought along to pose for our 2008 Christmas cards...and then got off the elephants and went to lunch.

Another great meal...this time at more of a local establishment. Fish and chicken and pork...all fabulous, but none of them as spicy as I was expecting. That is of course until we add the chili sauce! Ah...the secret ingredient!

Then off to another Karen village. I have mixed feelings about visiting these villages...much as I did last year in Egypt when we went to a Nubian village. These people are trying to live their lives, and here we come parading past and sometimes through their houses (houses...more like shacks)like they are entertainment. That beinf=g said...I guess they make money that way...so it's a double edged sword. I buy another couple scaves from a woman there (I was careful to pick ones I knew had been made in the village, not ones that had been bought in town and sold there) and we left and went to take a bamboo raft ride.

The ride was fun...and of course I got soaked! Bill was wearing the quick dry pants...I on the other hand was not. I was hoping I would dry out before we got to the airport! Stopped at a handicraft market...got some sticky rice inside a bamboo shoot...very interesting, and did a little more shopping. My daughter wanted a Buddha statue, and Sutthi had received a call from someone asking him to buy a couple as well. I guess I'm a better bargainer than he was...I got mine for a LOT less than he did!

Sutthi drops us off a little early at the airport...he has to drive to Chiang Rai that night to begin a three day trip with a family the next morning. It was a good thing too...when we arrived we found out that ALL the Bangkok Air flights had been cancelled...we went to the desk and with some bit of wheeling and dealing they got us on a flight back to Bangkok on Thai Air. We don't get back until after 11, and we're starving! We end up just eating at the McDonald's...we're too tired to try to walk around to find a place that's open. It's funny...we don't even eat at McDonald's here in the States!

heymo

Day Six- Back in Bangkok...sort of.

We're back at Centre Point Silom...though no upgrade this time, nor are we in a room facing the river. We are instead in a room that doesn't want to let us in! They have to change the key box three times before we leave...guess it doesn't like us! That's okay...

Tong picks us up at 7:30, and we head to Ayutthaya. It's a zoo...there are cars everywhere! Tong seems to be frustrated...we visit some of the other temples before trying to head back to the main temple. Visit Wat Mahathat, and have pour picture taken in from of the famous face of Buddha in the tree roots. I swear...we have more pictures of the two of us on this trip than we've ever had in our 16 years of marriage!

Tong's favorite place to have lunch is packed, so we try a roadside place she's never been to. Not fabulous, buit for 10 Baht each it was decent. We then stopped and got these treats...tortillas with strands of sugar you place inside then roll up and eat...they were terrific! We gobble three bags up and head back to the main temple. Not as crowded this time, and the late afternoon sun makes for some really nice pictures.

Back to the hotel around 7. We asked at the front desk where would be the best place to watch the fireworks, and were told we could watch them from the roof of the hotel. Sweet! We decided to go down to the grocery store and buy sushi for dinner instead of eating out.

Back to the room, awaiting the fireworks. We brought a DVD player with us, and watched "Signs" until about 11.We thought we'd go up early and check things out. Went to the 26th floor, and took the stairs to the 28th floor. Then we went up the fire escape...and we were on top of the world! (Or so it felt...)

The roof almost looked like a helipad, and we could see the river and all the boats going up and down. The view was spectacular! Bill went back down and brought back up some beer, and we sat and watched all the activity below. And best of all...we were the only ones up there! Across the river there was quite a party going on, we were told later they are a new condo unit. From the sound of the music coming out of it, it was a loud party to be sure! There were several of the dinner cruise boats that went by, each with lights that said "Long Live the King" or Happy 2008"...very colorful. We were still the only people up there until about 11:45 or so, then little by little people started drifing up there.

All in all I'd say there was about 25-30 people total. We counted down the New Year, and then the fireworks began. When they went off they were almost at eye level it seemed...and the barges were right in front of us! It was an amzing way to spend New Years. If any of you are ever there at that time, I highly recommend it!

rhkkmk

i'm loving, loving your report....1st class---you should be ashamed....haha

even with the bumps, the trip sounds fabulous....and how about those fireworks...

next year there may be 5M people on the CP silom room after reading this...

heymo

Thanks Bob...The funny thing about being upgraded is we actually called Northwest to see if we could use frequent flier miles to upgrade and they told us no...we paid too little for our tickets to be able to do that! Thank heavens they did...it would have been a waste of miles we can use elsewhere!

heymo

Backtracking a little...to answer your question jgg...I only mentioned the Death Railway and Bridge on the River Kwai because we basically walked out, looked around, took a couple pictures and left. I would say we were underwhelmed. I believe there is a train ride you can take...maybe that would be interesting, I don't know. Maybe others can elaborate if they've done it!

jgg

heymo- thanks for your thoughts on River Kwai bridge, etc. I have heard similar from others, but would be interested if anyone has a different opinion.

Another question. I contacted Sgt. Kai to see if he would be willing to guide us for a day while we are in Chiang Rai, even though he is located in Chiang Mai. I just heard back from him tonight. He said he can't do it, but would be happy to ask his friend to do it. Since Sutthi took people touring in Chiang Rai, perhaps it will be him. I still need cost details and will ask him if it would be Sutthi, but just wanted to know if you were happy with your time with him.

Again, really enjoying your report. Looking forward to the next installments.

skittle

Thanks so much for writing your report Heymo. It is just 2 weeks and 2 days until we leave to go to Krabi,Bangkok,Siem Reap and Chiang Mai. We have 3 Days booked with Tong and are using your report and her website to decide what we want to do. Definately the Tiger Temple and the Fishing Village and one other day that we can't decide about. More a case of too many choices than anything else. You are setting the 'Report Bar' rather high.... Keep up the great work.

Gpanda

Skittle-if you're interested, you might ask Tong to go to the Forest orphanage while you're out at the Tiger Temple. As you may note from Heymo's report, the Death Railway and usual River Kwai stuff can be underwhelming. The orphanage is very interesting.

heymo

Day 7- New Years Day- a day of making merit...

tong had asked us when we booked her whether or not we would like to make merit on New Years Day. We say sure...then asked what the heck that was...with that in mind...tong and her husband(who is very sweet, and we liked him immensely!) picked us up at 5:30 A.M. to begin our day of merit making. First on the agenda...tong's husband had made up for us bags of food and such and we proceeded to the Royal Field, where there was a gathering of 181 monks to give offerings to. tong said last year there were about 80 monks...but first we had to stop by a market. Apparently Chang (tong's husband, I have no idea if that's how his name is spelled...)bought enough food for our bags, but not enough for them. After getting food for them to give we went to the Royal Field.

They had large tables in rows, and people brought all kinds of things to give them. Our offerings included individual bags filled with rice, canned fish,and bottled water, and tong bought lotus flowers and we spent a very funny 1/2 hour or so trying to fold the petals back. tong and her husband's looked beautiful. Bill's and mine...well, let's just say it's a good thing monks ae generous of spirit!

The processions began, and one by one the monks walked by with their bowls and their assistant who carried a MUCH larger bag to put all the items in one you had placed your offering in his bowl. You may or may not know this, but when you make an offering to a monk (as a woman, I have no idea the rule if your a man) not only can you not touch him, you cannot touch his bowl as well. Ah...the pressure. I kept trying so desperately not to touch the bowl I would drop the lotus flower on the ground. Then I wasn't sure...do I still place it back in the bowl, or since it's touched the ground it's no longer worthy to give him. (overthinking things, I'm sure, but I wanted to be respectful) It was a really interesting experience.

Next up. Giving life and saving a life. tong explained that Thai tradition is that on New Year's Day one of the ways to make merit is you buy fish or frogs, etc. that would normally be killed and eaten and release them back into the wild, thereby saving their life. So, we went to a place whose business it is to catch fish and frogs and eels and God knows what else were in these buckets, and you take them to the river and set them free. Frankly spreaking, to Bill and I this seemed a little strange...you CATCH these animals to set them free? Isn't that a vicious cycle? How is this different than the people at the temples trying to sell birds to release, but they train them or drug them into coning right back? tong explained that she and her husband release the fish into a part of the river that fishing is not allowed, and therefore they are freed. I didn't want to argue the point that fish do them SWIM into other parts of the river...we just went with it. We bought two large fish and several smaller ones to release in the river.

We then went to a regular open air market and got 2 kilos of fish that would have been killed and sold right there to release as well. Off we go to a park by the river to release the fish. We chanted a prayer (for the safety of the fish, one can only assume), opened the bags, and set the fish free. There was a group of what appeared to be Japanese tourist nearby and they seemed fascinated by what we were doing...they took more pictures of the procedure than we did! There also was a man who seemed to be homeless sitting there who even came up and helped us open the bags!

We had told tong we needed to get another passport picture taken for the Angkor temples pass, so we then went to a store right across the street from where tong's husband works. We met her father in law, and Bill got his picture taken. And I broke down and bought a polo shirt in honor of the King. How could you NOT they were EVERYWHERE! 150 Baht...and tong bought another one herself. She said she has 9, and never wears them! (Though she WAS that day)

Time for food...of course! Chang dropped us off to find a aparking sopt, and we went to first find more gifts for monks at another temple. Thai's are suppose to visit 9 temples on New Years' Day to make merit, and tong wanted to go to a temple she doesn't normally visit. We bought a few of those pre-packaged gifts I'm sure you've seen. (or will see if like me this is your first trip) Ours had mats for the monks to kneel on, and umbrella, some tea, toothbrush and toothpaste, I think one even had a minks robe in it. They cost something like 270 Baht...some were more, some less. tong asked if we liked fish...and by my reaction she thought I didn't. I do...but it was only about 7 a.m. by now, and I guess I was thinking more along the lines of omlets and pancakes...not fish balls and chili sauce! Farang that I am...ha ha ha but fish balls it was...and they were good!

We went back to get Bill's picture, and by then the Grand Palace was open and we could go visit. And so, I believe, did the ENTIRE city of Bangkok! The place was packed, and tourists were certainly the minority! When we were walking in we saw a man who worked at the palace telling a family of tourists they were dressed inappropriately, and trying to sell them sarongs to take inside. tong said she wanted to warn them, but as a guide she couldn't...

Part of the palace was closed, apparently they were having some big function that day and some dignitaries were there. But you know tong...she took us around a back way for us to at least see what we were missing from the outside, and convinced a couple guards to walk up and take pictures. I felt bad for Chang, his job for his day off was to sit with the car. I hoped at least he went off to do soething else, I hated the thought of him sitting in the car all day waiting for us...

We made our way thorugh the sea of humanity to the Emerald Buddha. Let me sum up the experience this way... when we got inside, I don't actually think my feet ever moved...we were propelled along like a conveyor belt. If someone would have sneezed everyone would have fallen over! I GUESS you could say I saw the Buddha, but it was a fleeting glimpse, to be sure. tong said the crowds of Thai people had been coming to the temple like this since the 26th, so no matter what day we'd been here it was have been like this. YIKES!!!

When we were leaving, we saw the same man telling people that the palace was closed...HELLO...there are thousands of people walking down the street going inside...but these people seemed to be believing them. tong was getting upset, I'm sre for them it's hard to see your own people taking advantage of tourists. So I walked up to one of them while the others were talking to the palace worker and told them the guy was lying and the palace was open, they should just walk away and go inside. Hopefully...they listened. I thjink tong and I both felt like we'd done what we could to help...

Then off to a river and klong tour. While we did that, Chang went to pick up Bill's picture. Going along the klongs you get a better sense of how local people live in Bangkok...the really poor ones, andyway. Some of the houses along the klongs looked as if they were ready to collapse into the water, and some actually had. We finished the boat ride and went to Wat Pho.

The Reclining Buddha was just as enormous and just as beautiful as I imagined it. While Bioll and were taking pictures, tong was scolding people not to touch the feet. There are signs clearly stating that, and it frustrated tong to no end that people (Thai's mostly) were ignoring it. As we were leaving Wat Pho (by now it was about 4 or 5 in the afternoon)tong asked if there was anything else we wanted to see...but we said we were pretty tired, and needed to pack for our flight to Cambodia the next morning. So they brought us back to the hotel, we took some pictures, said our goodbyes...and tong gave me a pair of the devil horns I'd teased her about from Kristina's pictures! I will miss her...

On to Cambodia!

heymo

jgg...you might also ask her about the monkey school. She was telling us about it when we were driving one day...sounded interesting!

By the way...can anyone explain to me the logic of the 1 square of toilet paper as a napkin???

Kristina

I've never understood the logic of the TP as napkin thing either.

She gave you the horns?? Cool...

So, how frustrated were you when you went to buy the temple pass and discovered that you did not need the passport photo? I know I was. I'd also brought my own and then they took those horrible digital ones instead!

rhkkmk

i agree 100% about the railway...i was more than underwhelmed, given the time necessary to get there, etc...the time could have been better spent doing other things...i am glad i went but would never repeat it or suggest that people with limited time do it...remember i had been to thailand 9 times before i went there...of course i have no attachment to it as i do to say a battlefield in germany or france...

heymo

We were VERY frustrated about the photos...since we'd gone through not only getting them done at home, but having Bill's redone when we were in Bangkok! That being said...having his picture when he needed a new passport and not having to scour Chiang Mai for a place that took them was a blessing!

Tong bought her and I each a set. Hers were blue, mine were red. She called me later and we commiserated that we forgot to take a picture of us in them!

rhkkmk

we released the fish too, but only 2 or 3 really big ones....i thought it was "neat" but not sure i felt better for the fish??? it is trully a cultural thing....

i think i will ask tong if she will take us to meet the king....surely she has some in there....

heymo

Day 8- Cambodia.

Up at 4:30 for pick up to the airport. We planned to go a little early for our 7:30 flight in case immigration gave Bill a hard time about his passport. He had a little trouble, since his departure card was pretty much a mess from washing it, but after a few minutes of paperwork we were through and waiting for the plane. Which didn't take off until 8:20...Bangkok Air cannot certainly be known for their promptness! Our e-tickets says we're to leave at 7:30 and get there at 8:30...but it really only takes a half hour to fly there!

Thank heavens we bought e-visas...we seemed to be the only ones on the whole flight who did! Sailed right past the throngs waiting to get theirs, and got our luggage. Ponheary was waiting for us when we walked outside, along with her driver Nayim. (again, I have no idea how to spell his name!) Ponheary explained that check in at the hotel (Angkor Holiday...very nice!) wasn't until noon, so we would visit Angkor Wat first. Wow...we're not even in the country an hour and we get to see Angkor Wat!

I have to say...(and I can't believe I AM saying it) I was somewhat underwhelmed. Unlike the pyramids in Egypt, which were even bigger than I imagined, Angkor Wat seemed smaller than I thought. It's still beautiful. As we walk around the grounds Ponheary mixes in her knowledge of the history of the temple with her own experiences as a girl, from running around the temple as a child playing hide and seek (can you imagine?) to somewhat offhandedly pointing out bullet holes made by the Khmer Rouge and the Cambodias during the war. She was generous enough to share some of her experiences with the Khmer Rouge...horrifying.

Ponheary asked us if when we visit the school tomorrow by Bantay Srei if we would like to buy breakfast for the school kids. For $80 U.S. we could buy french baguettes and sweet milk (sweetend condensed milk, it turns out to be) for over 400 kids. We said of course!

She also tells us about a school in Koh Ker, about three hours north of Siem Reap, where there has been an outbreak of malaria. This same school lost 8 children to dengue fever last year. She's trying to get medicine to help them, but the medicine costs $400 and the money cannot come out of the foundation funds. When Lori set up the foundation, it states the money would be spent of school supplies, and using it for medicine would be a misappropriation of funds.

We then went to check into the hotel. Ponheary took care of the booking for us, and tells us she got them to upgrade our room to a suite for the same price...$50. The room is very big, and breakfast is included. We get settled in while Ponheary runs some errands and tells us she'll be back for us at 2:30. Bill tells me as soon as we get in the room that he plans to give her some money for emergencies such as this malaria outbreak...

Off to Angkor Thom, Bayon, Terrace of the Elephants, and Baphuon at 2:30. I have to say I think the Bayon is my favorite...back to the hotel at 5:30, get cleaned up and walk down to get something to eat. Found Molly Malones...and decided to eat there. BIG mistake! Food was lousy and so was the service! Grabbed a tuk-tuk back to the hotel (a whopping $1...we gave him $2) and off to bed. Tomorrow...the school!

heymo

Bob....I wouldn't be surprised if she did...that girl has an "in" with everyone!

We talked to another couple when we were in Khao Lak who had been with tong right after us, and they said she was quite devastated by the death of the King's sister on Jan. 2.