Great trip to Myanmar, Bangkok and Hong Kong
Mar 5th, 2014, 04:51 PM
#23
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Thanks guys. I've been distracted, but will finish up.
From Mandalay, we flew to Heho. We actually had to fly back to Nuang U, then to Heho, so it was longer than it needed to be. It was interesting to fly into the mountains. Heho is in a valley between two ranges.
We had asked while planning for Santa Maria to have the driver take us to Kalaw. There didn't seem to be any other way to get there and it sounded like an interesting detour. It was a 45 min drive from Heho. In Kalaw, we went to the Catholic Church, closed, but decorated for Epiphany, then to the Shwe On Min Paya (cave temple). There is another cave temple in Pindaya which is more famous, but we didn't make it there. The cave temple was neat, fortunately there were some tourists that knew what they were doing and turned on the lights so we could see. The cave temple was pretty lit only by candlelight, we just couldn't walk around very easily. We took the steps up to Thien Taung Paya monastery and looked at the views of town. The driver picked us up at the top. Then we walked around the market and stopped for lunch. Out of curiosity, I ordered Italian rice. I was a little worried it would be something like rice with ketchup, but it was baked rice with roast pork and raisins. A nice surprise and different from the usual curries we had been getting. Then it was a long drive back to Heho and then onto the lake area. We did enjoy seeing the countryside and really got a feel of the topography, the different hills and valleys along the way.
The driver drove to the Inle Zone checkpoint ($10). We stopped briefly at the Shwe Yaunghew Kyaung, the one with the oval windows, then through the town of Nyaungshwe. We ended up in a warehouse area. When the car stopped, several people came and took our luggage. We followed them and found the long boats. It took a few minutes to get the boat in place. The luggage was covered by a tarp and we were off. There were umbrellas in the boat, but it was comfortable in the sun. At least for a while, then we started getting splashed rather hard. Now we figured out what the umbrellas were for, to stop us from getting wet.
We arrived at the Golden Island Cottages II. There are 2 resorts and fortunately I remembered that it was #2 we were staying at. The cottages are all over the water with a walkway connecting them. There is a main house in the center where the restaurant was. The boat driver asked us when we wanted him back the next day. We hadn't planned anything, but we said we would meet him in the morning for a half day tour.
One problem with the cottages was they weren't completely sealed, there were three wasps in the room, but we were also worried about mosquitoes. Fortunately there was a mosquito net over the bed. We just relaxed in the cottage that afternoon, there was a nice desk area overlooking the lake. We were re-reading some of the Forums I printed out about things to do. One was where Kathie had posted "decide where you want to go before getting in a boat". We planned our trip for the next day.
Sunset on the lake was very nice, but it did get cold here quickly. The hotel restaurant had a large menu, we ordered a whole fish, which was excellent.
More later.
From Mandalay, we flew to Heho. We actually had to fly back to Nuang U, then to Heho, so it was longer than it needed to be. It was interesting to fly into the mountains. Heho is in a valley between two ranges.
We had asked while planning for Santa Maria to have the driver take us to Kalaw. There didn't seem to be any other way to get there and it sounded like an interesting detour. It was a 45 min drive from Heho. In Kalaw, we went to the Catholic Church, closed, but decorated for Epiphany, then to the Shwe On Min Paya (cave temple). There is another cave temple in Pindaya which is more famous, but we didn't make it there. The cave temple was neat, fortunately there were some tourists that knew what they were doing and turned on the lights so we could see. The cave temple was pretty lit only by candlelight, we just couldn't walk around very easily. We took the steps up to Thien Taung Paya monastery and looked at the views of town. The driver picked us up at the top. Then we walked around the market and stopped for lunch. Out of curiosity, I ordered Italian rice. I was a little worried it would be something like rice with ketchup, but it was baked rice with roast pork and raisins. A nice surprise and different from the usual curries we had been getting. Then it was a long drive back to Heho and then onto the lake area. We did enjoy seeing the countryside and really got a feel of the topography, the different hills and valleys along the way.
The driver drove to the Inle Zone checkpoint ($10). We stopped briefly at the Shwe Yaunghew Kyaung, the one with the oval windows, then through the town of Nyaungshwe. We ended up in a warehouse area. When the car stopped, several people came and took our luggage. We followed them and found the long boats. It took a few minutes to get the boat in place. The luggage was covered by a tarp and we were off. There were umbrellas in the boat, but it was comfortable in the sun. At least for a while, then we started getting splashed rather hard. Now we figured out what the umbrellas were for, to stop us from getting wet.
We arrived at the Golden Island Cottages II. There are 2 resorts and fortunately I remembered that it was #2 we were staying at. The cottages are all over the water with a walkway connecting them. There is a main house in the center where the restaurant was. The boat driver asked us when we wanted him back the next day. We hadn't planned anything, but we said we would meet him in the morning for a half day tour.
One problem with the cottages was they weren't completely sealed, there were three wasps in the room, but we were also worried about mosquitoes. Fortunately there was a mosquito net over the bed. We just relaxed in the cottage that afternoon, there was a nice desk area overlooking the lake. We were re-reading some of the Forums I printed out about things to do. One was where Kathie had posted "decide where you want to go before getting in a boat". We planned our trip for the next day.
Sunset on the lake was very nice, but it did get cold here quickly. The hotel restaurant had a large menu, we ordered a whole fish, which was excellent.
More later.
Mar 6th, 2014, 05:07 PM
#24
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We had trouble deciding if we wanted to go to Kalaw or Sankar. Both seemed like long day trips and we did want to have time to relax. The setting of the cottages over the lake was so wonderful. We ended up taking a half day boat trip to Indien, the floating gardens, and the Jumping Cat Monastery, which was directly across the lake from us. At quiet times in the evening, we could hear the monks chanting.
We left after breakfast and Indien was our first stop. The boat stopped at the edge of the village and we walked in. We passed a school and the kids were loud, reciting their lessons. We saw some ruined stupas on a hill and a kid dressed as a monk offered to take us up the hill. It was a moderate climb, on top of the hill was a collection of ruined stupas, views of the village and the lake although it was hazy. The kid said that he lived here on the hill and showed us a house with a bed and a teapot over a fire. As we left, we gave him $2 and he asked for $3. It was a nice walk, and the best part was there were no other tourists there, but it might not be legit.
Back in town, we found the covered walkway to where the main collection of ruins where. This was amazing, they were on both sides of the covered walkway. We enjoyed shopping in the arcade as well and bought a few gifts. We didn't make it all the way to the monastery, too many distractions along the way. We went back to where the boat let us off. We didn't see our boat or driver, but he showed up after a few minutes. We stopped for lunch along the way back to the lake, I think it would have been Tha Lay, but I wasn't sure. We tried the tea leaf salad which a freind had told us about before, it was surprisingly good.
After lunch we toured the floating gardens. This was a sight, we had seen the boats digging up water weeds, here they were piled up and the villagers grew all sorts of vegetables on the lake. There was a lot of activity, planting and setting up the vegetable beds.
At Nga Hpe Kyaung, it was meditation time, so no jumping cats or monks. It was quiet, but we looked at the collection of ancient Buddhas in several different styles (Tibetan, Shan, Burmese and others). Back to the hotel to relax for the rest of the day.
The staff at the Golden Island Cottages come out with drums and gongs every time a boat comes back. It was a neat tradition. Somehow, we were so distracted on our first arrival that we didn't even notice them. We told our boat driver that we would stay around the hotel the next day. Another nice dinner at the hotel, you are pretty much stuck there in the evening, though we weren't complaining at all.
The next day, the staff mapped out a hike for us to take up to the village of Naung Lee. We walked the opposite way from the lake, past, the hotel staff quarters, through a small village and up the hill. We found a monastery there, it was closed, but we passed rice paddies, villagers transplanting rice, and many small farms. We only saw one mechanical plow, everything was done by hand. We walked back and found a different trail, this must have been the correct trail. We had beautiful views of the lake. We ended at another village, but went back down to the hotel. We saw all the linens from the restaurant hanging out to dry, everything was washed in the lake. The water was very clear at least.
Our last night, a large tour group came so it was quite different from our first two nights. There was even a performance with live music. We were able to settle our bill by credit card, we figured we better do it when everything was working rather than wait for the morning. The next morning was very foggy, the boat picked us up for the trip back to Heho. It was cold on the lake this early. Good thing the boat had blankets, but we weren't expecting this. Heho airport was very crowded, it may have been because of the fog, but we had no idea. Our trip back to Yangon stopped in Nuang U again, but this time we were expecting it.
We left after breakfast and Indien was our first stop. The boat stopped at the edge of the village and we walked in. We passed a school and the kids were loud, reciting their lessons. We saw some ruined stupas on a hill and a kid dressed as a monk offered to take us up the hill. It was a moderate climb, on top of the hill was a collection of ruined stupas, views of the village and the lake although it was hazy. The kid said that he lived here on the hill and showed us a house with a bed and a teapot over a fire. As we left, we gave him $2 and he asked for $3. It was a nice walk, and the best part was there were no other tourists there, but it might not be legit.
Back in town, we found the covered walkway to where the main collection of ruins where. This was amazing, they were on both sides of the covered walkway. We enjoyed shopping in the arcade as well and bought a few gifts. We didn't make it all the way to the monastery, too many distractions along the way. We went back to where the boat let us off. We didn't see our boat or driver, but he showed up after a few minutes. We stopped for lunch along the way back to the lake, I think it would have been Tha Lay, but I wasn't sure. We tried the tea leaf salad which a freind had told us about before, it was surprisingly good.
After lunch we toured the floating gardens. This was a sight, we had seen the boats digging up water weeds, here they were piled up and the villagers grew all sorts of vegetables on the lake. There was a lot of activity, planting and setting up the vegetable beds.
At Nga Hpe Kyaung, it was meditation time, so no jumping cats or monks. It was quiet, but we looked at the collection of ancient Buddhas in several different styles (Tibetan, Shan, Burmese and others). Back to the hotel to relax for the rest of the day.
The staff at the Golden Island Cottages come out with drums and gongs every time a boat comes back. It was a neat tradition. Somehow, we were so distracted on our first arrival that we didn't even notice them. We told our boat driver that we would stay around the hotel the next day. Another nice dinner at the hotel, you are pretty much stuck there in the evening, though we weren't complaining at all.
The next day, the staff mapped out a hike for us to take up to the village of Naung Lee. We walked the opposite way from the lake, past, the hotel staff quarters, through a small village and up the hill. We found a monastery there, it was closed, but we passed rice paddies, villagers transplanting rice, and many small farms. We only saw one mechanical plow, everything was done by hand. We walked back and found a different trail, this must have been the correct trail. We had beautiful views of the lake. We ended at another village, but went back down to the hotel. We saw all the linens from the restaurant hanging out to dry, everything was washed in the lake. The water was very clear at least.
Our last night, a large tour group came so it was quite different from our first two nights. There was even a performance with live music. We were able to settle our bill by credit card, we figured we better do it when everything was working rather than wait for the morning. The next morning was very foggy, the boat picked us up for the trip back to Heho. It was cold on the lake this early. Good thing the boat had blankets, but we weren't expecting this. Heho airport was very crowded, it may have been because of the fog, but we had no idea. Our trip back to Yangon stopped in Nuang U again, but this time we were expecting it.
Mar 6th, 2014, 09:25 PM
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carl70.
Thanks for doing a report. I am enjoying it.
Did you think Indein was worth the half day trip on the lake? I can't my up my mind if we should go there or not. Is the covered walkway not well marked?
Thanks for doing a report. I am enjoying it.
Did you think Indein was worth the half day trip on the lake? I can't my up my mind if we should go there or not. Is the covered walkway not well marked?
Mar 7th, 2014, 05:01 AM
#26
We were in INle lake for 4 nights in February. I loved being on the lake and watching life on the lake. Indien is interesting, but for me the joy was just being on the lake. There is a lotus silk weaving factory that I thought very interesting. We visited that the same day we went to Indien. We had lunch on the lake and it was one of our delightful days spent at Inle Lake. The covered walkway at Indien was easy to follow. If you feel you're not sure where you are going, people are very nice and they always pointed us off in the direction to go. No problems at all.
Mar 7th, 2014, 09:15 AM
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Thanks for the comment....
The weaving factory is the other stop I hope we can do. I love learning about the textiles of other countries. But mainly just enjoying what there is to see on the Lake is the main purpose for the visit.
The weaving factory is the other stop I hope we can do. I love learning about the textiles of other countries. But mainly just enjoying what there is to see on the Lake is the main purpose for the visit.
Mar 7th, 2014, 09:37 AM
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The weaving workshop on the lake is very interesting, indeed. It is the only place in the world I've seen them working with lotus fiber. I enjoyed seeing the level of technology - weights on the looms were often tine cans filled with rocks.
Mar 8th, 2014, 05:37 PM
#29
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I agree, the best part was just being on the lake. It was definitely worth the trip. There are full day excursions that go other places if you want more than just a half day to Indien. We definitely felt it was worth doing for half a day. You probably could fill a full day in Indein if you went on some other hikes up into the hills.
Mar 8th, 2014, 05:48 PM
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One last instance of planning too late.
On one of the internal Myanmar flights we were on, the inflight magazine had an article about the Bogyoke Aung San museum. This was rather surprising as the article talked openly about the affection for Aung San and his daughter throughout the country. We e-mailed Santa Maria to see if we could get a driver and guide to take us there. Spotty internet meant that we never got their reply. We landed in Yangon and went directly to the Parkroyal hotel. Later they called the hotel and said that our driver and guide had been waiting at the airport for us. Unfortunately, by then it was too late to meet up with them.
We did have some time to walk around Yangon before dinner. We walked to the Sule Paya, saw the Mahabadoola Gardens (admission to foreigners) and some of the old colonial buildings around the gardens. We retrieved a suitcase from the hotel that we had left at the start of our trip and packed for Bangkok. Our last night we ate a the hotel restaurant. We did have a top floor room and we saw the Shwedagon Pagoda lit up at night. Very pretty last view from our stay in Myanmar.
On one of the internal Myanmar flights we were on, the inflight magazine had an article about the Bogyoke Aung San museum. This was rather surprising as the article talked openly about the affection for Aung San and his daughter throughout the country. We e-mailed Santa Maria to see if we could get a driver and guide to take us there. Spotty internet meant that we never got their reply. We landed in Yangon and went directly to the Parkroyal hotel. Later they called the hotel and said that our driver and guide had been waiting at the airport for us. Unfortunately, by then it was too late to meet up with them.
We did have some time to walk around Yangon before dinner. We walked to the Sule Paya, saw the Mahabadoola Gardens (admission to foreigners) and some of the old colonial buildings around the gardens. We retrieved a suitcase from the hotel that we had left at the start of our trip and packed for Bangkok. Our last night we ate a the hotel restaurant. We did have a top floor room and we saw the Shwedagon Pagoda lit up at night. Very pretty last view from our stay in Myanmar.
Mar 8th, 2014, 06:01 PM
#31
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Bangkok
When we were planning our flights, we wanted to be that in case there were any problems coming or going, we wouldn't miss any of our time in Myanmar so we buffered our trip with a couple days in Bangkok. On the way in we just stayed at the airport, but this time we went downtown. We stayed at the Millennium Hilton on the river. We took the hotel ferry over to River City mall. We had been spoiled by how cheap everything was in Myanmar, now we were back to normal prices. The River City mall had a lot of antique shops, some with nice pieces from Bagan at suitable high prices. Rested at the hotel and went to Ruen Urai, recommended here on the message boards.
Our second day, we rode the Skytrain over to the Jim Thompson house. We had been to Bangkok before, but never visited it before. The house is really interesting, it was several old fashioned Thai houses from the countryside assembled in a small complex. Lots of neat antiques and other artifacts. Later that evening we went to dinner at the Spice Market in the Four Seasons. Heavy traffic there and back, but a very nice dinner, and our first wine on this trip.
Next stop, Hong Kong.
When we were planning our flights, we wanted to be that in case there were any problems coming or going, we wouldn't miss any of our time in Myanmar so we buffered our trip with a couple days in Bangkok. On the way in we just stayed at the airport, but this time we went downtown. We stayed at the Millennium Hilton on the river. We took the hotel ferry over to River City mall. We had been spoiled by how cheap everything was in Myanmar, now we were back to normal prices. The River City mall had a lot of antique shops, some with nice pieces from Bagan at suitable high prices. Rested at the hotel and went to Ruen Urai, recommended here on the message boards.
Our second day, we rode the Skytrain over to the Jim Thompson house. We had been to Bangkok before, but never visited it before. The house is really interesting, it was several old fashioned Thai houses from the countryside assembled in a small complex. Lots of neat antiques and other artifacts. Later that evening we went to dinner at the Spice Market in the Four Seasons. Heavy traffic there and back, but a very nice dinner, and our first wine on this trip.
Next stop, Hong Kong.
Mar 8th, 2014, 09:29 PM
#32
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Hi Carl, enjoying your report.
I went to the Bogyoke Aung San museum whilst in Yangon about 10 days ago. I found it interesting for the colonial architecture, fantastic fretwork archways, and items from his daily personal life, furniture, crockery and even clothes and shoes, (also outside, the car he was chauffeured in).
It is pretty limited though, the tower/ turret was closed to visitors, presumably for safety reasons, it's said to have a view to Shwedagon. No photos allowed inside which is a shame given the history and colonial features. He lived there for about two years prior to his assisination in 1947.
The area was interesting for a stroll, many wooden colonial houses, mostly derelict.
Thanks for posting
I went to the Bogyoke Aung San museum whilst in Yangon about 10 days ago. I found it interesting for the colonial architecture, fantastic fretwork archways, and items from his daily personal life, furniture, crockery and even clothes and shoes, (also outside, the car he was chauffeured in).
It is pretty limited though, the tower/ turret was closed to visitors, presumably for safety reasons, it's said to have a view to Shwedagon. No photos allowed inside which is a shame given the history and colonial features. He lived there for about two years prior to his assisination in 1947.
The area was interesting for a stroll, many wooden colonial houses, mostly derelict.
Thanks for posting
Mar 12th, 2014, 05:55 AM
#34
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Carl,
Thanks so much for writing an informative TR; I enjoyed reading it! I can see that this was definitely a wonderful trip. Do you recommend Santa Maria? Is there a particular agent with whom you worked? (I think that a number of people on this board have also been happy with this TA). Again, many thanks for all the great info.
Thanks so much for writing an informative TR; I enjoyed reading it! I can see that this was definitely a wonderful trip. Do you recommend Santa Maria? Is there a particular agent with whom you worked? (I think that a number of people on this board have also been happy with this TA). Again, many thanks for all the great info.
Mar 23rd, 2014, 12:12 PM
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Definitely would recommend Santa Maria? Our agent was Wah Wah, but other people have had great service from the agency, we didn't specifically request anyone in our correspondence with them.
Carl
Carl
Mar 23rd, 2014, 01:16 PM
#36
We used Santa Maria and had an overall good experience with them. My only objection is that they require you to meet them at the Yangon airport to pay them and get your vouchers before you begin your trip. If you prefer to start in another city, you have to go thru Yangon. We started out with Karene. By the end of the planning someone else was helping us. Both were responsive and efficient to work with.
