First Trip To India - Thoughts As To Itinerary?
Jul 6th, 2010, 07:49 AM
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
520, I totally agree. I don't think it will be a boring trip for us at all! Far from it! I wish we could meet up, too. That would be really fun.
I heard back from Ajay, and he is going to re-order the itinerary so we're in Agra for the full moon. Two issues he raised:
- Ajay says the fog is worse at the end of December/beginnng of January, so there's a greater chance our flights to/from Varanasi will be delayed than if we went earlier in the trip (per his original itinerary)
- Room 303 at Rashmi Guest House is booked from 29 Dec to 2 Jan, which is when we would be there under the revised itinerary. However, Room 302 is available. I seem to remember reading a trip report from someone in Room 302, but I can't remember who it was! Can anyone comment on Room 302 vs. Room 303?
I heard back from Ajay, and he is going to re-order the itinerary so we're in Agra for the full moon. Two issues he raised:
- Ajay says the fog is worse at the end of December/beginnng of January, so there's a greater chance our flights to/from Varanasi will be delayed than if we went earlier in the trip (per his original itinerary)
- Room 303 at Rashmi Guest House is booked from 29 Dec to 2 Jan, which is when we would be there under the revised itinerary. However, Room 302 is available. I seem to remember reading a trip report from someone in Room 302, but I can't remember who it was! Can anyone comment on Room 302 vs. Room 303?
Jul 6th, 2010, 08:56 AM
#42
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,498
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In case Craig isn't around, here's his report in which he stayed in Room 302:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...ad-bangkok.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...ad-bangkok.cfm
Jul 7th, 2010, 03:18 AM
#44
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Abby, We did almost the exact same itinerary as you had originally planned, and it worked out very well, except we wished we had more time as it felt a little rushed. Definitely not boring!! We loved Delhi, and thought it was nice to have our time there all in a chunk at the end. As Craig said we thought the shopping there was the best, and there are so many interesting places to visit. If you like cities, I think you will really want to spend more time there. As other posters have said, I think you are spending too many nights in Varanasi. It is really a small city and two nights on the river will give you plenty of time to see everything and get a real feel for Varansi. I would cut out the third night and add it to Delhi. Also stayed in room 302 at Rashmi and the view was great, and from the rooftop terrace and restaurant just above even better. The place is immaculately clean, the hospitality is wonderful, the location ideal -- just don't expect a luxury room and bathroom and as Craig said, bring earplugs! The noise and sounds of prayers from the surrounding temples are part of the atmosphere, but it goes on all night & you do want to get some sleep. I also suggest flying between some of the cities, such as Jaipur to Jodhpur, to save some time. You will not be missing much by cutting out that drive, and you will have more time in your destination. Driving in India takes a lot of time, an the flight, if I recall was only about 45 min or an hour. The airports are very close to the small cities, check-in is quick. Also, consider taking the train from Delhi to Agra. We didn't but wish we had for the experience. I understand it is a nice train ride on an express with comfortable seats and A/C,which you may not need at that time of year. We went in February and didn't need AC anywhere.
Whatever you decide, you will have a wonderful trip. It was probably the most memorable trip we have taken.
Whatever you decide, you will have a wonderful trip. It was probably the most memorable trip we have taken.
Jul 8th, 2010, 06:16 PM
#45
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks CFW! Glad to hear you enjoyed room 302! I am definitely looking into a flight from Jaipur to Jodhpur. As for Varanasi, we're still figuring out what to do. For some reason, I really want to stay there for 3 nights. We're thinking about taking a slightly later flight home that would give us an extra afternoon/evening in Delhi, so we'll see what we come up with . . .
Jul 10th, 2010, 09:16 PM
#46
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Abby, As I read your postings, I've started wondering whether we should change our one night on the river in Varanesi to the Rashmi Guest House; it does sound very appealing. We, too, wanted to stay three nights in Varanesi--mainly so that we would have at least one night on the river--and not feel rushed. In reality, we'll only have two and a half days with our arrival in mid to late afternoon and departure in mid-day--how do your arrival and departure times work out? I've also read that there is good shopping in Varanesi...
I'm not crazy about all the driving for sure, but read so much about all the delays with flights in India,that we decided we'd rather limit the number of chances of just sitting around airports. You may also want to think about whether you'll miss seeing Fateh Shikur if you don't do the drive from Jaipur--although since you're staying two days in Agra, imagine you could do that the second day you're in Agra.
Anyway, as usual, will be very curious to hear what you've decided on--and whether you've arranged to have more time in Delhi at the end....we have first class seats using frequent flyer miles, and could possibly get seats a day later from Delhi to London--but not from London to NYC as our departure date is closing in on all the Xmas holiday travellers.
The temptation to have one last day in Delhi for shopping is there--
I'm not crazy about all the driving for sure, but read so much about all the delays with flights in India,that we decided we'd rather limit the number of chances of just sitting around airports. You may also want to think about whether you'll miss seeing Fateh Shikur if you don't do the drive from Jaipur--although since you're staying two days in Agra, imagine you could do that the second day you're in Agra.
Anyway, as usual, will be very curious to hear what you've decided on--and whether you've arranged to have more time in Delhi at the end....we have first class seats using frequent flyer miles, and could possibly get seats a day later from Delhi to London--but not from London to NYC as our departure date is closing in on all the Xmas holiday travellers.
The temptation to have one last day in Delhi for shopping is there--
Jul 10th, 2010, 09:23 PM
#47
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, my previous post definitely shows my lack of India knowledge--the Rashmi Guest House and the Palace on the River (where we're booked) are one and the same!!!! So guess I don't have to do any rethinking (I thought I remembered that Craig had reported staying there in his trip report!!), but I will now request either room 302 or 303!!!
Jul 11th, 2010, 01:11 PM
#48
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
520 - I am right there with you; it is confusing, especially given that there is a "Palace on the River," a "Palace on the Ganges," and a "Ganges View" guesthouse -- all of which are different. Our flight times are like yours -- really just 2 1/2 days in Varanasi, which I think is the right amount of time for us.
There is a mid-afternoon flight from Jaipur to Jodhpur, which we may end up taking. We'll see Fatehpur Sikri en route to Jaipur from Agra, so we've got that covered.
The itinerary in general is still completely up in the air at this point. I started another thread about airlines and layovers and received some great feedback from Cicerone, including an idea to fly first to Varanasi (from Bangkok) and do the itinerary in reverse. Among other things, this would avoid fog delay issues. Unfortunately, the Bangkok/Varanasi flight doesn't run everyday and isn't available the day we need it. Cicerone also suggested flying to Mumbai and then on to Udaipur, so we're looking into that, as well.
At the very least, even if we stick with the original plan (ie, flying into Delhi), it's looking like we'll have an extra day in Delhi on the 3rd, and the itinerary would look like this:
December 18/19 -- Depart LAX for Delhi; arrive late Sunday, Overnight BNineteen
December 20 – Delhi; overnight BNineteen
December 21 – Train to Agra; overnight Amarvilas (full moon)
December 22 – Agra; overnight Amarvilas
December 23 – Drive to Jaipur; overnight Samode Haveli
December 24 – Jaipur; overnight Samode Haveli
December 25 – Drive or train to Jodhpur; overnight Ratan Vilas (consider stopping en route at Chhatra Sagar rather than going all the way to Jodhpur)
December 26 – Jodhpur; overnight Ratan Vilas
December 27 – Drive to Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 28 – Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 29 – Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 30 – Fly to Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
December 31 – Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
January 1 – Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
January 2 – Fly to Delhi; overnight BNineteen
January 3 – Delhi
January 4 - Early flight home
There is a mid-afternoon flight from Jaipur to Jodhpur, which we may end up taking. We'll see Fatehpur Sikri en route to Jaipur from Agra, so we've got that covered.
The itinerary in general is still completely up in the air at this point. I started another thread about airlines and layovers and received some great feedback from Cicerone, including an idea to fly first to Varanasi (from Bangkok) and do the itinerary in reverse. Among other things, this would avoid fog delay issues. Unfortunately, the Bangkok/Varanasi flight doesn't run everyday and isn't available the day we need it. Cicerone also suggested flying to Mumbai and then on to Udaipur, so we're looking into that, as well.
At the very least, even if we stick with the original plan (ie, flying into Delhi), it's looking like we'll have an extra day in Delhi on the 3rd, and the itinerary would look like this:
December 18/19 -- Depart LAX for Delhi; arrive late Sunday, Overnight BNineteen
December 20 – Delhi; overnight BNineteen
December 21 – Train to Agra; overnight Amarvilas (full moon)
December 22 – Agra; overnight Amarvilas
December 23 – Drive to Jaipur; overnight Samode Haveli
December 24 – Jaipur; overnight Samode Haveli
December 25 – Drive or train to Jodhpur; overnight Ratan Vilas (consider stopping en route at Chhatra Sagar rather than going all the way to Jodhpur)
December 26 – Jodhpur; overnight Ratan Vilas
December 27 – Drive to Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 28 – Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 29 – Udaipur; overnight Jagat Niwas
December 30 – Fly to Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
December 31 – Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
January 1 – Varanasi; overnight Palace on the River
January 2 – Fly to Delhi; overnight BNineteen
January 3 – Delhi
January 4 - Early flight home
Jul 11th, 2010, 02:28 PM
#49
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We flew directly from Delhi to Jodhpur, just a short couple of hours. It's a loooong drive from Agra to Jaipur.
I would cut one night in Udaipur, add one night to Jodhpur. Check for lake levels in Lake Pichola and make sure your driver takes you through the Aravelli Hills via Kumbhelgarh Fort and Ranakpur on the way from Jodhpur.
Delhi is low on my list of things to do in India. I'd probably spend less time there. I still think you're doing too much, but it's your nickel . . .
I would cut one night in Udaipur, add one night to Jodhpur. Check for lake levels in Lake Pichola and make sure your driver takes you through the Aravelli Hills via Kumbhelgarh Fort and Ranakpur on the way from Jodhpur.
Delhi is low on my list of things to do in India. I'd probably spend less time there. I still think you're doing too much, but it's your nickel . . .
Jul 11th, 2010, 05:20 PM
#50
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Indianapearl - thanks for the feedback (I loved your trip report, by the way). We have both Kumbhelgarh and Ranakpur on the itinerary -- they sound spectacular!
No doubt we are doing too much. I wish we had more time, but we're already stretching it. At this point, I think we're resigned to the fact that we're going to leave India feeling like we didn't have nearly enough time in any one place -- which of course gives us reason to return.
No doubt we are doing too much. I wish we had more time, but we're already stretching it. At this point, I think we're resigned to the fact that we're going to leave India feeling like we didn't have nearly enough time in any one place -- which of course gives us reason to return.
Jul 12th, 2010, 08:29 PM
#53
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Abby, your travel itinerary (with some different hotels) is now almost identical to ours--excewpt for one night less in Udaipur--I am curious about the train from Delhi to Agra; I thought of this originally when I was working out a very different itinerary with Ajay (it was one completely focused on organizing our trip around going to Kumaon--when I finally gave up the ghost, I kind of forgot about the train to Agra).
I had a long conversation today with a friend who did a very similar itinerary two years ago. He really liked the train ride they had which was from Delhi to Khajuraho....He and his wife had a pretty extraordinary trip in all ways; they had just arrived at the Taj in Mumbai when the attack took place--and after being held for 26 hours in their room in the Taj, they continued on their trip. They already had booked a VERY upscale trip--and then were upgraded at every place they went because of their experience!! He said that India was one of the most extraordinary travel experiences he's had.
As it seems so many people say
I had a long conversation today with a friend who did a very similar itinerary two years ago. He really liked the train ride they had which was from Delhi to Khajuraho....He and his wife had a pretty extraordinary trip in all ways; they had just arrived at the Taj in Mumbai when the attack took place--and after being held for 26 hours in their room in the Taj, they continued on their trip. They already had booked a VERY upscale trip--and then were upgraded at every place they went because of their experience!! He said that India was one of the most extraordinary travel experiences he's had.
As it seems so many people say
Jul 12th, 2010, 09:24 PM
#54
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
520 - Wow -- what an extraordinary story about your friend.
I was noticing how similar our itineraries are -- and Nutella's is pretty close, too! Maybe we should exchange emails as the dates draw closer.
Ajay has recommended that we drive from Delhi to Agra because the train leaves so early, but despite his recommendation, we are planning to take the train, primarily because I've read lots of posts on here about how a train ride in India is worthwhile and part of the "experience," the early-morning express train takes a lot less time than the drive (and we're pretty early risers anyway), and the place we're staying (BNineteen) is basically adjacent to the train station from which the train leaves. We're going to be spending lots of time on the road, so I figured this would be a good opportunity to take the train.
I was noticing how similar our itineraries are -- and Nutella's is pretty close, too! Maybe we should exchange emails as the dates draw closer.
Ajay has recommended that we drive from Delhi to Agra because the train leaves so early, but despite his recommendation, we are planning to take the train, primarily because I've read lots of posts on here about how a train ride in India is worthwhile and part of the "experience," the early-morning express train takes a lot less time than the drive (and we're pretty early risers anyway), and the place we're staying (BNineteen) is basically adjacent to the train station from which the train leaves. We're going to be spending lots of time on the road, so I figured this would be a good opportunity to take the train.
Jul 12th, 2010, 10:23 PM
#55
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BNineteen is nexd to Nizamuddin RR Station, not New Delhi RR Station. So i assume you are taking the 3 hour ride Taj Express from there to Agra--not the faster Shatabti which departs at 6 am from new Delhi RR Station?
Your agent will be aware of this...but thought I'd better double check (being somewhat compulsive for travel details, as are most of us on FFs (-
We've taken two Shatabti Express trains, and i'm guessing the Taj Express will be much like those--comfortable seating, serve breakfast, serve tea, choice of English or Hindi newspaper, choice of Indian or Western toilet--quite an experience in either case!
Some Shatabtis look quite modern, others..less so. The last we took, in June, was a bit worse for wear, but till comfortable. We called it the Shabbi Express.
When people speak of the "train experience"in India, they are usually talking also of the train STATION experience. Dont know if Nizamudding in early morning is anything like New Delhi RR Stn early am (or just about any time. If it is similar, prepare yourself for chaos like you've never seen. I think it was Dogster who referred to NDRR Stn as the most in-your-face experience you can have in India!
Your agent will be aware of this...but thought I'd better double check (being somewhat compulsive for travel details, as are most of us on FFs (-
We've taken two Shatabti Express trains, and i'm guessing the Taj Express will be much like those--comfortable seating, serve breakfast, serve tea, choice of English or Hindi newspaper, choice of Indian or Western toilet--quite an experience in either case!
Some Shatabtis look quite modern, others..less so. The last we took, in June, was a bit worse for wear, but till comfortable. We called it the Shabbi Express.
When people speak of the "train experience"in India, they are usually talking also of the train STATION experience. Dont know if Nizamudding in early morning is anything like New Delhi RR Stn early am (or just about any time. If it is similar, prepare yourself for chaos like you've never seen. I think it was Dogster who referred to NDRR Stn as the most in-your-face experience you can have in India!
Jul 13th, 2010, 01:42 PM
#56
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm also leaning toward the ungodly-hour-Shatabti-Express from Delhi to Agra. Photos online reveal the seats to look more like an airplane, as opposed to what I envisioned the "Indian train experience" that the guidebooks describe - being crammed into a compartment with an Indian family staring at you, sharing their food and asking really personal questions LOL. But I suppose I'll not be lacking for "Indian experiences" during my trip, so I might as well get from point A to B in relative comfort!
Jul 13th, 2010, 02:31 PM
#57
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The 6:00 a.m. departure pretty much makes it a pass for us!! Not sure where we'll be vis-a-vis jet lag, but I agree with you,Nutella, that I don't think we'll be deprived of an abundance of "Indian experiences" throughout the trip.
I really really wanted to take one of the toy trains and if we decide to do another India trips, will try to work that in--although from many of the postings here, they're often not running for various reasons.
I DO want to try to take the metro while we're in Delhi--it sounds--and looks--as if it's amazing! TIME!!!! We need more time!!!
Abby, why don't you ask Ajay for my e-mail-- when I e-mail him about requesting room 302 0r 303, I'll tell him it's okay. I don't know about posting it on the forum--or if you prefer--and are okay with it, I'll ask him for your's.
Nutella, I don't remember your dates and itinerary--or how you feel ab. posting your e-mail address on the forum. But if you have a way to relay it and want to, please let me/us know.
Also, re: shopping in Delhi, my friend who I spoke of yesterday, did say the shopping was great and that the merchants delivered everything to their hotel--and that he, of course, didn't pay for it until delivered. He thought that it was pretty likely that we could do our shopping at the beginning of our trip and have it delivered to our hotel when we returned at the end. Do any of the very experienced India hands have any thoughts about that? I also thought, like Nutella, that we'd possible be able to shop at some of the recommended shops, Fabindia, Anokhi, etc, in other cities.
He bought three pairs of eye glass frames AND had his perscription made up in Delhi and said they're terrific--and were a great bargain!! Not something I'd ever have thought of doing.
I really really wanted to take one of the toy trains and if we decide to do another India trips, will try to work that in--although from many of the postings here, they're often not running for various reasons.
I DO want to try to take the metro while we're in Delhi--it sounds--and looks--as if it's amazing! TIME!!!! We need more time!!!
Abby, why don't you ask Ajay for my e-mail-- when I e-mail him about requesting room 302 0r 303, I'll tell him it's okay. I don't know about posting it on the forum--or if you prefer--and are okay with it, I'll ask him for your's.
Nutella, I don't remember your dates and itinerary--or how you feel ab. posting your e-mail address on the forum. But if you have a way to relay it and want to, please let me/us know.
Also, re: shopping in Delhi, my friend who I spoke of yesterday, did say the shopping was great and that the merchants delivered everything to their hotel--and that he, of course, didn't pay for it until delivered. He thought that it was pretty likely that we could do our shopping at the beginning of our trip and have it delivered to our hotel when we returned at the end. Do any of the very experienced India hands have any thoughts about that? I also thought, like Nutella, that we'd possible be able to shop at some of the recommended shops, Fabindia, Anokhi, etc, in other cities.
He bought three pairs of eye glass frames AND had his perscription made up in Delhi and said they're terrific--and were a great bargain!! Not something I'd ever have thought of doing.
Jul 14th, 2010, 02:24 AM
#58
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
520, not a shameless plug for my Antarctica writings and photos lol, but if you find my posting "Just Returned from Antarctica," my blog and web page contain my contact info.
I'm also on Facebook in the Fodor's Friends group.
I'm also on Facebook in the Fodor's Friends group.
Jul 14th, 2010, 03:56 PM
#59
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 10,430
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
520: Getting glasses in India is a great idea. The quality is very good and the cost is much less. In fact for the past several yrs. my son and his GF have been getting their contacts mailed to Chicago from an optomitrist in Delhi. I know it sounds strange but it works. We just email him the new script and he sends them. They have been delighted with the results.
