First trip to India - please help with our itinerary
Jul 9th, 2011, 05:08 PM
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First trip to India - please help with our itinerary
We are a couple in our 50s. We will have 18-19 days to travel in India in December. We are flying in and out of Delhi but don’t feel the need to spend a lot of time there.
In our research, we have come up with a number of places we know we want to include and many others that interest us, but we know we will not have time for them all. We would love suggestions on what not to include as well as things not listed that we should include. Trip reports have been very helpful to us in our planning so far.
The places we definitely want to see are: Agra, Varanasi and Udaipur.
Places that interest us are: In Rajasthan, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jaipur. The Rawla Narlai between Jodhpur and Udaipur sounds very lovely. In another direction, Gwalior, Orchha and Khajuraro. An overnight camel or horse safari in the desert is also of interest if our schedule allowed it or perhaps a “home stay”.
We realize we can’t do all of this, particularly because we do not as a rule like racing from place to place and don’t want to be on such a tight schedule that we don’t have room on drives to stop and explore. We are interested in seeing village life and, to the extent possible, less “touristy” things. We want a mix of natural beauty and religious and historical sites. As much as possible, we do not want to spend just one night in a place, though when necessary (for example, Agra), of course we would. We would prefer to cover as much of our itinerary as possible by car with a driver, though we recognize some air or train travel is probably necessary. An advantage of driving is that you can stop along the way to explore. We don’t want to have any days where all we do is sit in a car and drive.
In general, we would want to stay in 4 or 5 star hotels, and would love to hear suggestions for great places to stay (though our budget is not unlimited), though there could be exceptions – for instance, we have heard that the Palace on the River in Varanasi is appealing because of its location.
We haven't chosen a travel agency yet, so would appreciate any suggestions for that as well.
Hopefully, this gives you an idea of what we are looking for. We would greatly appreciate your suggestions.
In our research, we have come up with a number of places we know we want to include and many others that interest us, but we know we will not have time for them all. We would love suggestions on what not to include as well as things not listed that we should include. Trip reports have been very helpful to us in our planning so far.
The places we definitely want to see are: Agra, Varanasi and Udaipur.
Places that interest us are: In Rajasthan, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jaipur. The Rawla Narlai between Jodhpur and Udaipur sounds very lovely. In another direction, Gwalior, Orchha and Khajuraro. An overnight camel or horse safari in the desert is also of interest if our schedule allowed it or perhaps a “home stay”.
We realize we can’t do all of this, particularly because we do not as a rule like racing from place to place and don’t want to be on such a tight schedule that we don’t have room on drives to stop and explore. We are interested in seeing village life and, to the extent possible, less “touristy” things. We want a mix of natural beauty and religious and historical sites. As much as possible, we do not want to spend just one night in a place, though when necessary (for example, Agra), of course we would. We would prefer to cover as much of our itinerary as possible by car with a driver, though we recognize some air or train travel is probably necessary. An advantage of driving is that you can stop along the way to explore. We don’t want to have any days where all we do is sit in a car and drive.
In general, we would want to stay in 4 or 5 star hotels, and would love to hear suggestions for great places to stay (though our budget is not unlimited), though there could be exceptions – for instance, we have heard that the Palace on the River in Varanasi is appealing because of its location.
We haven't chosen a travel agency yet, so would appreciate any suggestions for that as well.
Hopefully, this gives you an idea of what we are looking for. We would greatly appreciate your suggestions.
Jul 9th, 2011, 06:11 PM
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I can't offer a lot of help on 4* and 5*, I stay at the lower end of the market. I am also a "mature" traveller 
I haven't seen all of the places you wish to go, but I have done the "Golden Triangle" of Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and places between. One thing I would urge you to consider for at least part of you trip is to hire a car with driver. I did that for the first five days and it was invaluable. Not only was it an easy, flexible way to see the region, it took the hassle out of lots of little things that the driver's local knowledge helped with.
My blog posts of that trip start here: http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/2008...ort-delhi.html
You will see one of the reasons I recommend using a driver when you get to the post on stepped wells.
Cheers, Alan, Australia.
I haven't seen all of the places you wish to go, but I have done the "Golden Triangle" of Delhi, Agra, Jaipur and places between. One thing I would urge you to consider for at least part of you trip is to hire a car with driver. I did that for the first five days and it was invaluable. Not only was it an easy, flexible way to see the region, it took the hassle out of lots of little things that the driver's local knowledge helped with.
My blog posts of that trip start here: http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/2008...ort-delhi.html
You will see one of the reasons I recommend using a driver when you get to the post on stepped wells.
Cheers, Alan, Australia.
Jul 9th, 2011, 10:28 PM
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You're asking a big question here bob.
Here's a very good start:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-travelawg.cfm
Travelaw's trip report covers a lot of the same territory. It's about as good a trip report as you're gonna find. Enjoy.
Here's a very good start:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-travelawg.cfm
Travelaw's trip report covers a lot of the same territory. It's about as good a trip report as you're gonna find. Enjoy.
Jul 10th, 2011, 07:26 AM
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Thanks so much dogster. I went to post that trip report for bob553 last night and got kicked off my internet before it got posted. Came back on today to find you have done it for me
bob553, we probably did too much on that trip, but had a great time. I recommend that you stay at least 2, preferable 3 nights in each place. When you are looking for a car and driver, add Ramesh Meena to the list of guys to check out. We used his services on two trips to India and found him to be very reliable, safe, and quite reasonable. [email protected], +91 9829807074
bob553, we probably did too much on that trip, but had a great time. I recommend that you stay at least 2, preferable 3 nights in each place. When you are looking for a car and driver, add Ramesh Meena to the list of guys to check out. We used his services on two trips to India and found him to be very reliable, safe, and quite reasonable. [email protected], +91 9829807074
Jul 10th, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Look into hotels beyond just seeing how many stars they have. The star system is less reliable an indicator of quality in India. Location is key, especially in large cities where commute time from the hotel to the airport or sightseeing areas could be much longer than you anticipated.
In Delhi, for example, 5 miles versus 15 miles could mean an extra hour of commuting. Also, consider planning your location around the Metro stations to avoid driving all the time.
In Delhi, for example, 5 miles versus 15 miles could mean an extra hour of commuting. Also, consider planning your location around the Metro stations to avoid driving all the time.
Jul 10th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Travelaw and Dogster, that trip report was fabulous. Many thanks. We are very psyched about this trip. But what do we cut? We agree that it's better to see more of fewer places than runnng around constantly. Looking for advice on what people's favorite experiences were.
Jul 10th, 2011, 07:09 PM
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Bob, India is bewildering, whether you do it slow or fast. If you do it like you want to then just take one area and get to know it. The reality is, tho', that you may as well just hurl yourself into the melee, like all the rest of us.
The favorite moments of India are your own personal dramas. They don't come out of a guidebook and they sure don't come at the big tourist sites. You can run, but you'll never hide... lol.
The fact of the matter is that the only real moment of contemplation you'll get is.. err.. never. That comes later. so don't be too shy about setting a cracking pace. Unless you pay for it, you'll not find serenity. You will, however, find India.
You can find a moment of bliss, however, in the midst of madness. You have to find a place like this:
http://www.ahilyafort.com/
There are quite a few of them. A very upmarket variation on that theme is this:
http://www.deviresorts.in/devigarh/
I'll let the others suggest some more.
So make sure you bung at least two of these stays in somewhere for R'n R. If you actually want to get in amongst it, you choose an Ahilya Fort - if you want designer luxe, you choose a Devi Garh.
The rest of the time, you'll end up hurtling around like a bottled fly, so just relax and go with it. India is exciting.
You have to meet it with energy or it'll eat you.
The favorite moments of India are your own personal dramas. They don't come out of a guidebook and they sure don't come at the big tourist sites. You can run, but you'll never hide... lol.
The fact of the matter is that the only real moment of contemplation you'll get is.. err.. never. That comes later. so don't be too shy about setting a cracking pace. Unless you pay for it, you'll not find serenity. You will, however, find India.
You can find a moment of bliss, however, in the midst of madness. You have to find a place like this:
http://www.ahilyafort.com/
There are quite a few of them. A very upmarket variation on that theme is this:
http://www.deviresorts.in/devigarh/
I'll let the others suggest some more.
So make sure you bung at least two of these stays in somewhere for R'n R. If you actually want to get in amongst it, you choose an Ahilya Fort - if you want designer luxe, you choose a Devi Garh.
The rest of the time, you'll end up hurtling around like a bottled fly, so just relax and go with it. India is exciting.
You have to meet it with energy or it'll eat you.
Jul 10th, 2011, 11:05 PM
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I guess you could do a decent tour of some of these places in your 18 - 19 days. Jodhpur should be added for it has a remarkable Mehrangarh fort to visit, a photographers delight. A overnight in Raas, is an icing on the cake. Another property, in this region, which will give you a chance to stay in an authentic Asiatic fort, with great ambience, is the Ranvas at Nagaur fort, some 85 miles north of Jodhpur.
Bikaner & Jaisalmer are a bit too far in the west and may not fit in, in a natural synthesis, though, The Serai, a few miles short of Jaisalmer is an excellent place to be in...quite expensive!
In the month of December / January, overnight camel safari is not recommended for it is simply too cold...the camps do not have electricity and gensets are turned off at 11:00pm. I do not like to go to bed with a jacket and a cap on!! Horse safaris are best done in south-central Rajasthan Eg. Rohet.The terrain is suitable.
Ravla Narlai should be added for not only the rooms are interesting, so are the villages...the 'happiness factor'is far more here.
Shahpura Bagh is another nice property. You could do a lot in Shahpura bagh...very nice indeed.
Bundi is a small town in east Rajasthan. It has some fine Haveli Hotels, that do not cost a fortune. The Braj Bhushan & Bundi vilas are fine places for a couple of nights. The views of some of the medieval Lakhori Brick havelis, are fabulous in the city below you.
Bhainsrorgarh,to the south, sitting atop a cliff edge, is one of those off-beaten destinations which gives you immense pleasure walking on the flagstone alleys of the village & the temples of Baroli...reputedly better than Khajuraho...what a painter sometimes fails to convey on canvass has been done in stone, by the sculptor. This temple has esoteric images, both secular and sacred, routed in the life & times of 9th century!
One does not need to stay in 5 star luxury all the time. These Fort Palaces are some of the finest in Rajasthan. These will allow you time to put your feet up and absorb the real India.The mystery & romance of Rajasthan lies in these palaces.
At Varanasi, not many places on the Ghats (Banks of river) are particularly pleasant to stay in. The Rashmi GH is well located. So is the Palace on the Ganges at Assi Ghat. Your better half and you will get a cultural shock, be prepared for it.
Much food for thought!
Bikaner & Jaisalmer are a bit too far in the west and may not fit in, in a natural synthesis, though, The Serai, a few miles short of Jaisalmer is an excellent place to be in...quite expensive!
In the month of December / January, overnight camel safari is not recommended for it is simply too cold...the camps do not have electricity and gensets are turned off at 11:00pm. I do not like to go to bed with a jacket and a cap on!! Horse safaris are best done in south-central Rajasthan Eg. Rohet.The terrain is suitable.
Ravla Narlai should be added for not only the rooms are interesting, so are the villages...the 'happiness factor'is far more here.
Shahpura Bagh is another nice property. You could do a lot in Shahpura bagh...very nice indeed.
Bundi is a small town in east Rajasthan. It has some fine Haveli Hotels, that do not cost a fortune. The Braj Bhushan & Bundi vilas are fine places for a couple of nights. The views of some of the medieval Lakhori Brick havelis, are fabulous in the city below you.
Bhainsrorgarh,to the south, sitting atop a cliff edge, is one of those off-beaten destinations which gives you immense pleasure walking on the flagstone alleys of the village & the temples of Baroli...reputedly better than Khajuraho...what a painter sometimes fails to convey on canvass has been done in stone, by the sculptor. This temple has esoteric images, both secular and sacred, routed in the life & times of 9th century!
One does not need to stay in 5 star luxury all the time. These Fort Palaces are some of the finest in Rajasthan. These will allow you time to put your feet up and absorb the real India.The mystery & romance of Rajasthan lies in these palaces.
At Varanasi, not many places on the Ghats (Banks of river) are particularly pleasant to stay in. The Rashmi GH is well located. So is the Palace on the Ganges at Assi Ghat. Your better half and you will get a cultural shock, be prepared for it.
Much food for thought!
Jul 10th, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Bob, you won't know this, but everybody involved in tourism is called Singh. They all stem from one noble sire: the esteemed V.P. Singh. His loins have spawned every travel agent in India - so, be aware, you have just been advised by The Master.
Jul 11th, 2011, 05:02 AM
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I'd weigh travel time into your equation. It's much easier to get around Rajasthan that MP. How will you travel from place to place?
The drive from Jodhpur to Udaipur is quite lovely and has a number of interesting destinations - Kumbhelgarh, Ranakpur, the Aravelli hills -- along the way. The drive from Agra to Gwalior is not interesting, but from Gwalior to Orchha to Khahjurhao passes through lots of little villages that are interesting to see. The road is rough. Only you can decide how much driving you are able to tolerate.
I'd choose an itinerary that gives you 2-3 days in each location. That trims your plan to perhaps six destinations.
The drive from Jodhpur to Udaipur is quite lovely and has a number of interesting destinations - Kumbhelgarh, Ranakpur, the Aravelli hills -- along the way. The drive from Agra to Gwalior is not interesting, but from Gwalior to Orchha to Khahjurhao passes through lots of little villages that are interesting to see. The road is rough. Only you can decide how much driving you are able to tolerate.
I'd choose an itinerary that gives you 2-3 days in each location. That trims your plan to perhaps six destinations.
Jul 11th, 2011, 08:52 AM
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Thank you all so much for your replies: immensely helpful with a trip that, at the moment, feels immense. We do want to limit our destinations so that we have a chance to stop along the way and see "less touristy" things: walking through villages that have more than souvenir shops is high on our list.
Many people have recommended Ramesh Meena. Where is he based out of? He must be quite busy with so many recommendations and we'd love to sign him up for as much of the trip as possible. Can we go direct to him or do we have to go with whoever our travel agency sets us up with (or can we ask for him through the travel agent)?
We probably haven't been clear about the type of places we like to stay in-it's less about "stars" or American style luxury and more about atmosphere, hospitality, beauty, an interesting village and CLEAN.
Again, your generousity in giving us all this advice is very much appreciated!
Many people have recommended Ramesh Meena. Where is he based out of? He must be quite busy with so many recommendations and we'd love to sign him up for as much of the trip as possible. Can we go direct to him or do we have to go with whoever our travel agency sets us up with (or can we ask for him through the travel agent)?
We probably haven't been clear about the type of places we like to stay in-it's less about "stars" or American style luxury and more about atmosphere, hospitality, beauty, an interesting village and CLEAN.
Again, your generousity in giving us all this advice is very much appreciated!
Jul 12th, 2011, 04:39 AM
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I would advise you to place Kashmir on your iterinary. It is one of the most scenic places in India, and also full of history. Particularly Jammu is full of old temples. That is, if city wandering gets too hectic for you down in MP or Rajasthan, you can always leave for Jammu and Kashmir.
Well, that's just my opinion
Well, that's just my opinion
Jul 12th, 2011, 07:31 AM
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We are narrowing our focus in light of the great suggestions here. In particular, we want to thank V.P. Singh, who really got what we were looking for, a blend of cultural, historical and nature. The places he recommended all seem quite wonderful. Now, our thinking is to start in Udaipur, drive to Jodhpur (staying at Rawla Narlai en route), Jaipur, Shahpura Bagh, Bundi, Bhainsrorgarh. We generally would want to stay at least 2 nights in a place. Any thoughts on this as a general Rajasthan plan?
Finally, our original plan was to end the trip with Agra and Varanasi before returning to Delhi for the flight home. However, it seems doubtful there is time for both (or maybe even either) considering we have 19 days on the ground. Each has its strong (and different) appeal for us, but we know from experience that for a trip to be successful, less is usually more. Should we leave both for another trip and focus on Rajasthan? Or do just one of them (and which one)? Once again, we appreciate the comments of this wonderful community.
Finally, our original plan was to end the trip with Agra and Varanasi before returning to Delhi for the flight home. However, it seems doubtful there is time for both (or maybe even either) considering we have 19 days on the ground. Each has its strong (and different) appeal for us, but we know from experience that for a trip to be successful, less is usually more. Should we leave both for another trip and focus on Rajasthan? Or do just one of them (and which one)? Once again, we appreciate the comments of this wonderful community.
Jul 12th, 2011, 03:46 PM
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Your itinerary sounds great. But I urge you to include the Taj Mahal. One day, or even just a morning, is sufficient because Agra is hardly a beauty spot, but you will always regret missing it if you don't see it: http://loraltravel.blogspot.com/2008/07/taj-mahal.html
Cheers, Alan, Australia
Cheers, Alan, Australia
Jul 12th, 2011, 09:34 PM
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dogster I couldn't have said it better. If it wasn't for Mr. Singh I would have never enjoyed India as much as I did. Thanks to his knowledge, recommendations, and all the arrangements he did for my trip, it turned out wonderfully. I will definitely be going back to India, and in the words of dogster I will be contacting "the master" when I do.
Jul 14th, 2011, 01:06 PM
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VP Singh is the best. He doesn't just show you the sights, he introduces you to the country and its people. You will not just see India, you will experience it when he guides you.
Bob553, if you don't know already, you can reach him at Legendsandpalaces.com.
You will need more than a driver to fully appreciate your visit.
Have a great trip and experience. You will remember it forever.
Bob553, if you don't know already, you can reach him at Legendsandpalaces.com.
You will need more than a driver to fully appreciate your visit.
Have a great trip and experience. You will remember it forever.
