First-timers’ trip to Japan: 4 weeks, an unexpectedly awesome trip
Jan 15th, 2024, 12:32 PM
#243
Original Poster
Friday, November 9
A few thoughts as I continue to write about our visit to Kyoto…we really loved the city yet, surprisingly, didn’t go to many of the city’s major sights. Perhaps we missed something important but, somehow, I don’t think so. I had read enough about the crowds that I didn’t want to be fighting my way through hordes of people just to see something.
But the feeling of the city was special, and much of that I believe has to do with staying at Hotel Mume, where the human connection made the experience the special one that it was.
————
So… we woke up on Friday, our first full day in Kyoto, to a damp, grey day that got worse as the day wore on. This was not a day for ambling through the city streets. What to do?
First, we had to do our laundry. Mume doesn’t have any laundry facilities on the premises for patrons but they directed us to the nearest laundromat, a 10 or 15 minutes walk from the hotel.
Then, after some discussion with our Mume advisors, we decided to see if we could get tickets to the Gion Odori, a traditional dance and music performance by the geiko (fully-trained geisha) and maiko (a geisha in training). Each of the 5 geisha districts perform once a year for the public and it was the last day of this performance. We were lucky that Mume was able to get tickets - but that’s what they do. We were worried it might be hokey but this turned out to be a wonderful show and we loved it. Even though it was performed for the public, it wasn’t a corny, touristy show, but a professional performance by the geisha.
Prior to the show, there was a tea ceremony that was presented in a small, crowded room, and people were given a small sweet and matcha tea. The presentation wasn’t very interesting and the matcha was, somehow, much more bitter than our earlier tastes (Tokyo, Kanazawa). My husband tried to get the attention of one of the women who was seating people and handing out the tea and sweets, but it was too busy to ask about the tea. It was probably clear to them, however, that he wasn’t happy. As we were leaving the room to move into the auditorium, one of the women tapped me on the shoulder and handed me a napkin with the 2 plates that our sweets were on. I was touched by this - it seemed that they were giving us this so we wouldn’t feel bad about the experience.
https://www.gionhigashi.com/gion.html
A few thoughts as I continue to write about our visit to Kyoto…we really loved the city yet, surprisingly, didn’t go to many of the city’s major sights. Perhaps we missed something important but, somehow, I don’t think so. I had read enough about the crowds that I didn’t want to be fighting my way through hordes of people just to see something.
But the feeling of the city was special, and much of that I believe has to do with staying at Hotel Mume, where the human connection made the experience the special one that it was.
————
So… we woke up on Friday, our first full day in Kyoto, to a damp, grey day that got worse as the day wore on. This was not a day for ambling through the city streets. What to do?
First, we had to do our laundry. Mume doesn’t have any laundry facilities on the premises for patrons but they directed us to the nearest laundromat, a 10 or 15 minutes walk from the hotel.
Then, after some discussion with our Mume advisors, we decided to see if we could get tickets to the Gion Odori, a traditional dance and music performance by the geiko (fully-trained geisha) and maiko (a geisha in training). Each of the 5 geisha districts perform once a year for the public and it was the last day of this performance. We were lucky that Mume was able to get tickets - but that’s what they do. We were worried it might be hokey but this turned out to be a wonderful show and we loved it. Even though it was performed for the public, it wasn’t a corny, touristy show, but a professional performance by the geisha.
Prior to the show, there was a tea ceremony that was presented in a small, crowded room, and people were given a small sweet and matcha tea. The presentation wasn’t very interesting and the matcha was, somehow, much more bitter than our earlier tastes (Tokyo, Kanazawa). My husband tried to get the attention of one of the women who was seating people and handing out the tea and sweets, but it was too busy to ask about the tea. It was probably clear to them, however, that he wasn’t happy. As we were leaving the room to move into the auditorium, one of the women tapped me on the shoulder and handed me a napkin with the 2 plates that our sweets were on. I was touched by this - it seemed that they were giving us this so we wouldn’t feel bad about the experience.
https://www.gionhigashi.com/gion.html
Last edited by progol; Jan 15th, 2024 at 12:53 PM.
Jan 15th, 2024, 12:41 PM
#244
Original Poster
Miscellaneous morning shots
Sweet Nana
Part of our breakfast at Mume - I loved the different homemade jams and jellies they served every day.
The canal behind the hotel
Laundry day!
Perfect balance!
Nearby canal
The photo of the auditorium stage before the Gion Odori performance began
2 women attending the performance
Sweet Nana
Part of our breakfast at Mume - I loved the different homemade jams and jellies they served every day.
The canal behind the hotel
Laundry day!
Perfect balance!
Nearby canal
The photo of the auditorium stage before the Gion Odori performance began
2 women attending the performance
Jan 15th, 2024, 04:26 PM
#246
Original Poster
Saturday, Nov 11
Wonderful day in Kyoto, starting with the Kyoto Free Walking tour through Gion: the geisha district, a number of temples and shrines in the Higashiyama district, and Maruyama Park. The tour leader, Dom, is from Switzerland, but is knowledgeable and passionate about Japan. It was terrific.
We met at the statue of Izomo-No-Okuni, located by the Kamo River, not far from the Minami-za kabuki theatre. Okuni was the founder of Kabuki theater in 1572, and a woman. Sometime later, however, women were banned from performing any entertainment.
We walked through the geisha district, though we didn’t see any geisha walking around while we were on the tour (I was hoping we’d see one). We passed the ochaya, or tea house, where the geisha entertain.
We continued through the Higashiyama district, with its many (and I mean, many!) temples and shrines. We passed several, but a lifetime wouldn’t be enough to see them all.
We continued on through a very busy section, passing through Ninenzaka and Sennenzaka streets, the sloping cobblestone streets with their historic buildings and temples. We saw the eye-catching Yasaka Pagoda, one of the most recognized landmarks in Kyoto. We stopped by the Yasaka Koshindo, with it’s colorful “monkeys”, cloth balls on which people write their wishes. Continuing on, our guide pointed out the Starbucks - we didn’t go inside but, we’re told, it has matcha latte and you can sit on tatami mats!
As we walked through the lush Maruyama Park, a large group of students came marching through. The tour guide thought they were from dance group, but we didn’t know for sure. Still, they were very charming and engaging.
We’ve done many of “free” walking tours - really, pay what you wish - on our travels, and this was one of the best.
Wonderful day in Kyoto, starting with the Kyoto Free Walking tour through Gion: the geisha district, a number of temples and shrines in the Higashiyama district, and Maruyama Park. The tour leader, Dom, is from Switzerland, but is knowledgeable and passionate about Japan. It was terrific.
We met at the statue of Izomo-No-Okuni, located by the Kamo River, not far from the Minami-za kabuki theatre. Okuni was the founder of Kabuki theater in 1572, and a woman. Sometime later, however, women were banned from performing any entertainment.
We walked through the geisha district, though we didn’t see any geisha walking around while we were on the tour (I was hoping we’d see one). We passed the ochaya, or tea house, where the geisha entertain.
We continued through the Higashiyama district, with its many (and I mean, many!) temples and shrines. We passed several, but a lifetime wouldn’t be enough to see them all.
We continued on through a very busy section, passing through Ninenzaka and Sennenzaka streets, the sloping cobblestone streets with their historic buildings and temples. We saw the eye-catching Yasaka Pagoda, one of the most recognized landmarks in Kyoto. We stopped by the Yasaka Koshindo, with it’s colorful “monkeys”, cloth balls on which people write their wishes. Continuing on, our guide pointed out the Starbucks - we didn’t go inside but, we’re told, it has matcha latte and you can sit on tatami mats!
As we walked through the lush Maruyama Park, a large group of students came marching through. The tour guide thought they were from dance group, but we didn’t know for sure. Still, they were very charming and engaging.
We’ve done many of “free” walking tours - really, pay what you wish - on our travels, and this was one of the best.
Jan 15th, 2024, 04:39 PM
#247
Original Poster
Kyoto Walking tour - 1
Walking through the Geisha district
Statue of Izomo-No-Okuni
Teahouse where geisha entertain
The miniature torii, normally seen at Shinto shrines, is considered an entrance to a spiritual place. Here it is placed low on a building wall within an area with a lot of bars to prevent drunken guys from urinating on the building!
At the entrance to a street where Geisha live
A street with traditional houses
Love the elegant grate!
Walking through the Geisha district
Statue of Izomo-No-OkuniTeahouse where geisha entertain
The miniature torii, normally seen at Shinto shrines, is considered an entrance to a spiritual place. Here it is placed low on a building wall within an area with a lot of bars to prevent drunken guys from urinating on the building!
At the entrance to a street where Geisha live
A street with traditional houses
Love the elegant grate!
Last edited by progol; Jan 15th, 2024 at 04:42 PM.
Jan 15th, 2024, 05:01 PM
#248
Original Poster
Kyoto Walking tour - 2
Higashiyama
Yasaka Pagoda
He had just proposed and she had accepted!
Yasaka Pagoda
Yasaka Koshindo (formally named Daikokusan Kongoji Temple Koshindo) is often referred to simply as “Koshin.” Colorful, eye-catching “monkeys” adorn the temple. Visitors write a wish, the date, and their name on the monkey of their favorite color. That, combined with letting go of one desire, is said to make the wish come true. The monkey is considered a godly messenger, and there are three monkeys – “see no evil, say no evil, hear no evil” – seen everywhere, including the main hall.
Isn’t she adorable?
Colorful “monkeys” on which people write wishes
Starbucks!
Higashiyama
Yasaka Pagoda
He had just proposed and she had accepted!
Yasaka Pagoda
Yasaka Koshindo (formally named Daikokusan Kongoji Temple Koshindo) is often referred to simply as “Koshin.” Colorful, eye-catching “monkeys” adorn the temple. Visitors write a wish, the date, and their name on the monkey of their favorite color. That, combined with letting go of one desire, is said to make the wish come true. The monkey is considered a godly messenger, and there are three monkeys – “see no evil, say no evil, hear no evil” – seen everywhere, including the main hall.
Isn’t she adorable?
Colorful “monkeys” on which people write wishes
Starbucks!
Last edited by progol; Jan 15th, 2024 at 05:11 PM.
Jan 16th, 2024, 07:54 AM
#250
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just starting to read your report about Kyoto. Hotel Mume looks absolutely beautiful! How wonderful that the staff asked you months in advance what you needed for sightseeing and restaurant reservations, and then made the reservations before you arrived. Sometimes accommodations make the destination even more memorable. When we were in Scotland last June, our favorite accommodation was the Sunny Brae B&B in Nairn. It's beauty, location, and the owners hospitality made Nairn one of our most memorable stops.
I love your photos of all the details that are relevant to Japan and that make the trip so memorable. The photo of the auditorium with the paintings/screens (not sure what they are actually) on the stage is so pretty. You have a good eye for important and unique details.
I love your photos of all the details that are relevant to Japan and that make the trip so memorable. The photo of the auditorium with the paintings/screens (not sure what they are actually) on the stage is so pretty. You have a good eye for important and unique details.
Last edited by KarenWoo; Jan 16th, 2024 at 08:02 AM.
Jan 16th, 2024, 08:53 AM
#251
Hotel Mume sounds wonderful. Love the yummy food pics.
Wow, I think that was back in the time when being a geisha (or maiko) was still a full-time career and often they lived in the okiya. I think that if you saw one in street clothes that you might have noticed she was pigeon-toed. The book Geisha, by Liza Dalby, describes the life. She is a Canadian anthropologist who was a geisha in Pontocho in 1976.
Progol, thank you for this richly detailed report! I have been waiting with anticipation for your arrival in Kyoto. Way back in 1972, my husband and I were walking through the Gion at dusk as geisha in full regalia walked past on the other side of byway. The tiny wooden houses, the soft light, it was magical.
Jan 16th, 2024, 02:06 PM
#253
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,563
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just finished your last set of photos. I am surprised to see so many women wearing kimonos. Although I can see why. They are beautiful, and I love the colors and patterns. I think they are also more flattering than lots of Western-style clothing. Yes, the little girl is adorable. So pretty in pink!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
Jan 16th, 2024, 03:44 PM
#254
Just finished your last set of photos. I am surprised to see so many women wearing kimonos. Although I can see why. They are beautiful, and I love the colors and patterns. I think they are also more flattering than lots of Western-style clothing. Yes, the little girl is adorable. So pretty in pink!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
Jan 18th, 2024, 09:04 AM
#256
Just finished your last set of photos. I am surprised to see so many women wearing kimonos. Although I can see why. They are beautiful, and I love the colors and patterns. I think they are also more flattering than lots of Western-style clothing. Yes, the little girl is adorable. So pretty in pink!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
The two women attending the Gion Odori might be geisha but the others are not. The black kimono worn by the woman on the left has a decoration that could be the crest of an ochaya. Could the wonan on the right be her daughter? Looks like the hair for both of them is arranged to accommodate geisha wigs. Maybe.
There is a very nicely dressed girl four photos before the cutie in pink. That older girl is sporting a high riding gold obi (with red ties to help keep it in place) and you can see the long sleeves of her kimono hanging at her sides.She is wearing nice zori (unlke the sneakers that the girl at Meiji Jingu was wearing).
Some of the women might actually be wearing kimono on behalf of (in the employ of) the tourist association. I believe that Kyoto hires women dressed as maiko (apprentice geisha) to walk about and pose for photos.
Back in 2001 I was in Gion, Kyoto, and saw a maiko coming out of a building and i think I tried to take a photo of her. I was in her way and as she hurried past me she said "give me a break". Pretty sure it was American English. Nowadays, I think she would be driven to her appointment to keep her away from the tourist crowd.
Last edited by mrwunrfl; Jan 18th, 2024 at 09:20 AM.
Jan 21st, 2024, 04:56 AM
#258
Original Poster
Just finished your last set of photos. I am surprised to see so many women wearing kimonos. Although I can see why. They are beautiful, and I love the colors and patterns. I think they are also more flattering than lots of Western-style clothing. Yes, the little girl is adorable. So pretty in pink!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
And those are great shots of the students, and the couple who just got engaged! Did you talk to them? And Maruyama Park is so pretty!
Thank you for the lovely comments! I’m glad mrwunrfl responded to explain about the kimonos. I think there’s a lot of different ways in which women wear them - as part of a traditional event, certainly, but also, many women rent them. I know I’ve seen it advertised for tourists and there are a lot of photos on the internet of travelers having photo sessions in traditional wear. But I do see that many young Japanese women wear kimonos, often having photos (or a couple - perhaps for engagement photos?) but also around temples and other traditional settings. It’s lovely to see.
The park was lovely - and I especially loved seeing the students! They made it fun!
By the way, did you ever get a chance to read the earlier post I wrote on onsens?
Jan 21st, 2024, 05:02 AM
#259
Original Poster
As progol has nicely documented, you can see people wearing kimono in shrine areas all over Japan.
The two women attending the Gion Odori might be geisha but the others are not. The black kimono worn by the woman on the left has a decoration that could be the crest of an ochaya. Could the wonan on the right be her daughter? Looks like the hair for both of them is arranged to accommodate geisha wigs. Maybe.
There is a very nicely dressed girl four photos before the cutie in pink. That older girl is sporting a high riding gold obi (with red ties to help keep it in place) and you can see the long sleeves of her kimono hanging at her sides.She is wearing nice zori (unlke the sneakers that the girl at Meiji Jingu was wearing).
Some of the women might actually be wearing kimono on behalf of (in the employ of) the tourist association. I believe that Kyoto hires women dressed as maiko (apprentice geisha) to walk about and pose for photos.
Back in 2001 I was in Gion, Kyoto, and saw a maiko coming out of a building and i think I tried to take a photo of her. I was in her way and as she hurried past me she said "give me a break". Pretty sure it was American English. Nowadays, I think she would be driven to her appointment to keep her away from the tourist crowd.
The two women attending the Gion Odori might be geisha but the others are not. The black kimono worn by the woman on the left has a decoration that could be the crest of an ochaya. Could the wonan on the right be her daughter? Looks like the hair for both of them is arranged to accommodate geisha wigs. Maybe.
There is a very nicely dressed girl four photos before the cutie in pink. That older girl is sporting a high riding gold obi (with red ties to help keep it in place) and you can see the long sleeves of her kimono hanging at her sides.She is wearing nice zori (unlke the sneakers that the girl at Meiji Jingu was wearing).
Some of the women might actually be wearing kimono on behalf of (in the employ of) the tourist association. I believe that Kyoto hires women dressed as maiko (apprentice geisha) to walk about and pose for photos.
Back in 2001 I was in Gion, Kyoto, and saw a maiko coming out of a building and i think I tried to take a photo of her. I was in her way and as she hurried past me she said "give me a break". Pretty sure it was American English. Nowadays, I think she would be driven to her appointment to keep her away from the tourist crowd.
I love the description of your interaction with the maiko in 2001 - I wonder if she is still there. Or maybe she is back in the US starting her own school?!
Jan 21st, 2024, 05:07 AM
#260
Original Poster
