It really was a wonderful choice to go there, reinforcing my feelings about what we loved about Japan - the smaller experiences and moments (or places) which added up to something very rich and special.

I’m not aware of the Shinkansen going there in a few months, but the towns away from Kaga onsen will still be accessible only by bus. Most people who go there come by cars. I think we were one of only 2 foreign couples both nights.

Your time at the Kaga Onsen sounds perfect! What a great find.

It was! A wonderful surprise!

Yamanaka onsen - the town


The public (gender-separated) bathhouse in the square


Yamanaka theater


Exhibit at the Yamanaka theatre


Yamanaka street


Yamanaka street


Yamanaka street


Garden behind the small cafe


Garden behind the small cafe


Shoe store with Geta sandals


Big foot Geta!


Lacquerware shop

Progol, I have to ask a dumb question. Which I should have asked sooner. You and others have mentioned “onsens” several times. What are they? Spa towns?

Not a dumb question! Onsens are hot springs and the bathing facilities that develop around them. Japan has thousands of hot springs and there are many regions that have developed onsen towns or a group of onsen towns. It’s very popular in Japan and (I just read) a theory suggests that it relates to some Shinto and Buddhist beliefs that washes away dirt and cleanses the soul. That may or may not be so, but it is a very popular activity.

There are many hotels and other accommodations that offer the hot spring baths. There are often public baths in towns where these onsen baths are located and the genders bathe separately. You’ll see the term, ryokan, which is a traditional inn, or guesthouse, frequently providing an elegant dinner of many courses, called kaiseki. In these onsen towns, or regions, there are often ryokans with onsen, or hot springs, for bathing. The water in the bath is fed from the hot springs and it is a heavenly experience!

The first ryokan we stayed in, Yarimikan, in the Japanese Alps, was the most elegant of all the onsen settings. We also had an onsen in the hotel we stayed.

Onsen bathing is typically done without clothes, so it’s separated by gender, except when you’re in a hotel or ryokan where you can reserve a private bath. Before going into the onsen, there is a changing room where one leaves their clothes. Then there is a shower area where you wash yourself before entering the onsen. Then rinsing/washing afterwards.

In the hotel or ryokan, we were given yakutas, or robes (a casual version of a kimono), which one wears to the onsen. There are photos of my husband and of me wearing our yakutas.

Hope this explains a lot! If not, ask me more questions (but I’m still no expert after my first visit!).

Kakusenkei Gorge walk - and a Samurai house!

The walk along the gorge was a delight, made even moreso when we came to Mugen-an Samurai house, a stunning home overlooking the gorge, which also houses a small cafe in the back where we had pizza for lunch!


Ayotori Bridge, or “Cat’s Cradle”, named for the traditional game.


Atotori Bridge


Kakusenkei Kawadoko, a beautiful spot to have tea and sweets
















Sign at the entry to the Mugen-an samurai house


Cafe


Gorgeous rooms and window


Elegant lacquerware on display


The rooms were so beautifully done






Stunning room


The setting was wonderful




The bridge back across the river

November 9
Off to Kyoto and our final stop of the journey A lovely last evening and morning in Yamanaka and it was time to move on to our final stop. I had researched the transportation beforehand so knew that there was a direct train from the small Kaga onsen station which took about 2 hours - perfect. We bought our tickets prior to leaving the station the day we arrived so were all set. The shuttle dropped us at the station and we had a short wait for the train.

On the platform, I was intrigued by the “Lady Kaga” poster, a nice play on Lady Gaga. A little googling led me to the discovery that “Lady Kaga” has been a tourism promotion for the Kaga region focusing on the geisha of the region. It’s also a movie that is apparently coming out this year.

And then there is the 73 meter tall statue, Jiba Kannon, holding a baby, representing the goddess Kannon as “compassionate mother”.

A leisurely 2 hour train ride with pleasant views on the way and we will be in Kyoto!

Lady Kaga tourist promo


Jiba Kannon, “compassionate mother” Kannon


Lovely views from the train










Don’t walk and talk! Or is it, don’t step on your phone?

Wonderful TR progol Thank you for sharing! Our time in Japan overlapped to some extent. I remember relying on the same people you mentioned for help and your support as well was very much appreciated.
Your photographs are fantastic. In one of them I noticed you're holding a phone in your hand. Did you photograph with that phone or you carried a camera as well?

Thanks so much, ak_rc!

I was a photographer for many years but now I just use my iPhone. It’s just too easy! And I don’t even have the most up to date model. I do have a small Sony camera but I so rarely use it since I find it so much less spontaneous to use.

progol This is a wonderful trip report and your photos are beautiful; they capture the small moments that make a trip for me. I am going to Japan in April and am still refining my itinerary, but I have a question: In your post #108, you mentioned a Matsumoto shop affiliated with the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum where you bought some fans. I will be in Matsumoto and would love to visit that store – do you happen to remember the name or address?

I've been debating with myself about a Tokyo hotel for 5 nights and have decided to follow in your steps with the Richmond Premier Hotel Asakusa. I like the idea of being in an atmospheric, "old" area that is also lively. This trip report has whetted my appetite for my trip!

vickiebypass ,
I’m so pleased that you’re enjoying this TR and finding it helpful. I envy you your upcoming trip! It will be wonderful, I’m sure.

I don’t have the exact name but I did find the shop on a Matsumoto map that is on the Visit Matsumoto website. I’ve blown the map up a little bit so you can understand the orientation of the downtown area and marked the location on the map; here’s the link to the website:
https://visitmatsumoto.com/wp-conten...kingMap_EN.pdf

progol Thank you! I've used the Visit Matsumoto website, but somehow missed the section with the maps!

Now you won’t get lost! Really, it’s a small enough city that it’s easy to get around. We really liked staying very near the castle but the center is very walkable.

Thursday, November 9
Hotel Mume
Kyoto

We arrived in Kyoto station around 3pm in - a bustling but manageable station. We picked up something to eat and, after finishing our snack, got a taxi to Shinmonzen Street, a street known for antiques in Gion and the location of our small hotel, Hotel Mume. We were told to look for a red door. After walking up and down the street, a construction worker directed us to the discreet opening in the street and the red door just magically appeared!

Now, I would be remiss if I didn’t tell you about Hotel Mume. This is a small boutique hotel in the Gion district, an area filled with preserved machiya (older wooden houses) and known as the geisha district. This was a wonderful location. But it’s the owner, Hisako, and her staff, that make this a home away from home. The warmth and care is second to none. Staying here made the stay to Kyoto very personal and it was the perfect place to end our visit to Japan.

Our trip would not have been the same if we stayed elsewhere. There was nothing (that they wouldn’t do to make their customers happy. Reservations, recommendations, tickets, directions afternoon tea/wine/sake and whatever it was we needed - the word “No” is not in their vocabulary in any language!

I had debated whether or not to stay here because it was a bit more than I usually spend on a hotel, but, now I can say that it made our visit to Kyoto a wonderful experience and left me with rich memories.

Months before our trip, they asked about interests and what kind of restaurants we wanted to go to. They sent many suggestions and, emailing back and forth, came up with a list of places and they made reservations before we arrived. And, of course, when we were there, any last minute reservation or something that needed tickets - no problem.

And we even became friends with another couple, H &S, who were staying there at the same time! It was just that kind of a place.

To Hisako, Nana, Hikaru and the rest of the staff, all I can say is ❤️

Hotel Mume photos

The Red Door


Dining area/loinge area




Hisako


Hikaru (left) and Nana ( right). Nana has been with Hotel Mume for over 10 years!


They are all amazing!




Bedroom - The Wind Room


Overlooking the small canal at the back

First night in Kyoto - on our way to dinner

Matsumoto Sakaba
A wonderful dinner at a small restaurant, Matsumoto Sakaba. An intimate experience, sitting at the counter. At first, there was only one other person, although a few more people arrived after we sat down. But such a wonderful restaurant!

Missing from this: the delicious sashimi and the very yummy black sesame ice cream!




Grilled oyster mushrooms


Grilled Aubergine


Salt grilled salmon




Young bluefin tuna roasted over straw fire - delicious!

Progol, thank you for this richly detailed report! I have been waiting with anticipation for your arrival in Kyoto. Way back in 1972, my husband and I were walking through the Gion at dusk as geisha in full regalia walked past on the other side of byway. The tiny wooden houses, the soft light, it was magical.