First-timers’ trip to Japan: 4 weeks, an unexpectedly awesome trip
Jan 2nd, 2024, 04:52 AM
#202
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Jan 2nd, 2024, 07:15 AM
#203
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"Okonomiyaki
One of our favorite meal experiences was okonomiyaki, a sort of large eggy pancake that consists of a filling (in our case, seafood) and is cooked on the grill right in front of us. We had gone into the Kanazawa M’za, a large department store a few blocks from our hotel and just opposite the Omicho Market, to ogle the food at the food court on the ground floor level. We discovered that there were a number of restaurants there, too. And we were able to get seated right away! Our first experience of onomiyaki! I didn’t fall totally in love with the food, (the BBQ-like sauce and other stuff that gets squirted on didn’t entirely appeal), but we enjoyed the experience totally."
--- I agree with you that I don't like the squiggles on okonomiyaki. I do not understand at all the Japanese predilection with mayo and ketchup. It seems incongruous with the rest of the cuisine. I ask for no toppings. I actually prefer negayaki to okonomiyaki. It substitutes green onions for the cabbage.
Then there is monjayaki, a cousin of okonomiyaki that never solidifies. I have yet to try it (and I doubt I will). I can honestly say I do not think there is an equivalent to this dish anywhere else in the world:
One of our favorite meal experiences was okonomiyaki, a sort of large eggy pancake that consists of a filling (in our case, seafood) and is cooked on the grill right in front of us. We had gone into the Kanazawa M’za, a large department store a few blocks from our hotel and just opposite the Omicho Market, to ogle the food at the food court on the ground floor level. We discovered that there were a number of restaurants there, too. And we were able to get seated right away! Our first experience of onomiyaki! I didn’t fall totally in love with the food, (the BBQ-like sauce and other stuff that gets squirted on didn’t entirely appeal), but we enjoyed the experience totally."
--- I agree with you that I don't like the squiggles on okonomiyaki. I do not understand at all the Japanese predilection with mayo and ketchup. It seems incongruous with the rest of the cuisine. I ask for no toppings. I actually prefer negayaki to okonomiyaki. It substitutes green onions for the cabbage.
Then there is monjayaki, a cousin of okonomiyaki that never solidifies. I have yet to try it (and I doubt I will). I can honestly say I do not think there is an equivalent to this dish anywhere else in the world:
Jan 2nd, 2024, 08:16 AM
#205
Original Poster
<<Then there is monjayaki, a cousin of okonomiyaki that never solidifies. I have yet to try it (and I doubt I will). I can honestly say I do not think there is an equivalent to this dish anywhere else in the world
>
shelemm & yestravel, while I loved almost everything we ate in Japan, I can honestly say this sounds - umm, less appealing than most! I haven’t tried it, but gooey, runny food doesn’t do it for me, either.
>shelemm & yestravel, while I loved almost everything we ate in Japan, I can honestly say this sounds - umm, less appealing than most! I haven’t tried it, but gooey, runny food doesn’t do it for me, either.
Jan 2nd, 2024, 05:27 PM
#206
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Trying to get caught up on your wonderful report. I've been very busy with the holidays; our daughter and her family, who recently relocated from France to Texas, spent 2 weeks with us for the holidays. We hosted Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. They left this morning. It's sad to see everyone leave but I am ready for some downtime, that's for sure. And have to start making reservations for our 2024 vacation, too!
One thing I've noticed throughout your Japanese journey are the beautiful landscapes and gardens, and of course, the autumn colors add to the beauty. Love the Kenrokuen Gardens! And the Ema plaques. "How To Use a Toilet" - hysterical! When both our daughters were living in China they took tons of photos of the comical signs!
Oh, and the runny pancakes don't sound appealing to me, either!
One thing I've noticed throughout your Japanese journey are the beautiful landscapes and gardens, and of course, the autumn colors add to the beauty. Love the Kenrokuen Gardens! And the Ema plaques. "How To Use a Toilet" - hysterical! When both our daughters were living in China they took tons of photos of the comical signs!
Oh, and the runny pancakes don't sound appealing to me, either!
Jan 3rd, 2024, 03:09 AM
#207
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Hi progol, I am still around and looking forward to catching up. The last month has been nuts - more work hours in December than the three prior months combined plus the holidays, and I'm way behind in following trip reports.
Jan 3rd, 2024, 07:50 AM
#208
Original Poster
Hi, KarenWoo and ms_go! Thanks for your ongoing interest in following my TR!
KarenWoo - how wonderful that you had your daughter and family for the holidays - that must’ve been a lot of fun, even if it was very busy. And you have a nice vacation coming up!
Japan is really a treat - beautiful with an amazing design aesthetic in everything. But there’s that whimsical side, too - I got a kick out of the signs in the toilet (saw it in several places).
ms_go - it’s good news/bad news when there’s that much work. Always wonderful to have it but then you actually have to do it! That’s the rub, isn’t it?
Thanks for coming here to let ‘em know - you’re welcome to “visit” anytime you want!
KarenWoo - how wonderful that you had your daughter and family for the holidays - that must’ve been a lot of fun, even if it was very busy. And you have a nice vacation coming up!
Japan is really a treat - beautiful with an amazing design aesthetic in everything. But there’s that whimsical side, too - I got a kick out of the signs in the toilet (saw it in several places).
ms_go - it’s good news/bad news when there’s that much work. Always wonderful to have it but then you actually have to do it! That’s the rub, isn’t it?
Thanks for coming here to let ‘em know - you’re welcome to “visit” anytime you want!
Jan 6th, 2024, 04:57 AM
#210
Original Poster
Jan 6th, 2024, 07:38 AM
#211
Original Poster
Monday, November 6
Our last full day in Kanazawa
With our energy running low, we got a one day bus pass at 800 yen from the hotel. To be honest, we didn’t really take full advantage of it, but we felt tired enough that we figured we’d give it a try and see where we could go.
We decided to visit the Teramachi District, or temple district, populated with many temples and was originally located outside of the city districts. We walked around several of the blocks and found the entire area fun to explore , though we were especially fascinated by the Myoryuji Temple, or “Ninja” Temple, nicknamed that because of the many clever defenses that were built into the temple to protect against intruders or attacks. It was fascinating! The tours are in Japanese only, but there are guidebooks with photos which follow the tour. No photos inside are allowed but it’s worth a visit to the place should you ever go!
After the visit, we had coffee at a nearby cafe with another couple we met on the tour. This was another one of those lovely moments. I had gotten up for a moment and the owner, an older gentlemen (well, we’re not such youngsters, either!), asked me with his limited English, where I was from. When I answered, “New York”. His whole face lit up and he said, “Manhattan!” At this point, I couldn’t understand what he was trying to say, so I whipped out my trusty phone and, thanks to Google Translate, I found out that he loves to watch CSI-NY! When we left, he handed us a small package as a gift. This is what we loved on our trip - those small interactions and moments of connection.
From here, we took a bus that went through several of the areas we’d already visited and got off near the castle and enter the castle. The castle was the seat of the Maeda clan, lords of Kaga and was a powerful feudal domain. It was originally built in 1583, but suffered several fires over the centuries. While the stone walls are original, the structure was all wood, and it’s now being rebuilt according to traditional methods. We couldn’t enter the towers, but it was still interesting to see the exhibits on the history of the castle and its reconstruction. And the views were lovely!
Dinner that evening was at a small and casual restaurant in Omicho Market. A satisfying end to our stay in lovely Kanazawa.
Our last full day in Kanazawa
With our energy running low, we got a one day bus pass at 800 yen from the hotel. To be honest, we didn’t really take full advantage of it, but we felt tired enough that we figured we’d give it a try and see where we could go.
We decided to visit the Teramachi District, or temple district, populated with many temples and was originally located outside of the city districts. We walked around several of the blocks and found the entire area fun to explore , though we were especially fascinated by the Myoryuji Temple, or “Ninja” Temple, nicknamed that because of the many clever defenses that were built into the temple to protect against intruders or attacks. It was fascinating! The tours are in Japanese only, but there are guidebooks with photos which follow the tour. No photos inside are allowed but it’s worth a visit to the place should you ever go!
After the visit, we had coffee at a nearby cafe with another couple we met on the tour. This was another one of those lovely moments. I had gotten up for a moment and the owner, an older gentlemen (well, we’re not such youngsters, either!), asked me with his limited English, where I was from. When I answered, “New York”. His whole face lit up and he said, “Manhattan!” At this point, I couldn’t understand what he was trying to say, so I whipped out my trusty phone and, thanks to Google Translate, I found out that he loves to watch CSI-NY! When we left, he handed us a small package as a gift. This is what we loved on our trip - those small interactions and moments of connection.
From here, we took a bus that went through several of the areas we’d already visited and got off near the castle and enter the castle. The castle was the seat of the Maeda clan, lords of Kaga and was a powerful feudal domain. It was originally built in 1583, but suffered several fires over the centuries. While the stone walls are original, the structure was all wood, and it’s now being rebuilt according to traditional methods. We couldn’t enter the towers, but it was still interesting to see the exhibits on the history of the castle and its reconstruction. And the views were lovely!
Dinner that evening was at a small and casual restaurant in Omicho Market. A satisfying end to our stay in lovely Kanazawa.
Jan 6th, 2024, 07:57 AM
#212
Original Poster
Kanazawa
Temples and shrines
Osaka Shrine, located to the north of Kanazawa Castle, was built in 1643, and is an important cultural property.
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Exterior, Ninja Temple
Temples and shrines
Osaka Shrine, located to the north of Kanazawa Castle, was built in 1643, and is an important cultural property.
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Teramachi temple district
Exterior, Ninja Temple
Jan 6th, 2024, 08:06 AM
#213
Original Poster
Kanazawa Castle 2
Kanazawa exterior from the day before on our way to the Kenrokuen Garden
View from inside the castle
View from inside the castle
Interior, Kanazawa Castle
View from interior of the castle
One of the powerful Kaga clan
View from interior of castle
As we left the castle, we came across these “eggs” which are used in the TeamLabs digital art exhibition. I thought they were funny to see!
Kanazawa exterior from the day before on our way to the Kenrokuen Garden
View from inside the castle
View from inside the castle
Interior, Kanazawa Castle
View from interior of the castle
One of the powerful Kaga clan
View from interior of castle
As we left the castle, we came across these “eggs” which are used in the TeamLabs digital art exhibition. I thought they were funny to see!
Jan 6th, 2024, 08:50 AM
#215
Original Poster
Interesting. We only had a small taste of Yanaka so only recall the one temple. I wish we had more time to explore Yanaka in more depth. It was one of my favorite stops.
Jan 6th, 2024, 11:15 AM
#216
Original Poster
Tuesday, November 7
Yamanaka Onsen
The last morning in Kanazawa; I have my morning soak and wash in the woman’s onsen on the top floor. It’s a a wonderful communal activity and, at the same time, people are very discreet and respectful of one another. There are maybe a half dozen other women of varying ages and this is so much more fun than just taking a regular morning shower. Of course, I have to wash before I enter the onsen and I wash after I’ve soaked, so I’m pretty scrubbed clean!
Now I’m very excited to share my “discovery”. In my initial planning for this trip, I was looking for a 2-3 day stop between Kanazawa and Kyoto. I was considering Hiroshima and Miyajima, but I just didn’t want to schlep a long way. Nor did I really want to stay in a large city, even though I heard Hiroshima was a very pleasant city. I spent an inordinate number of hours trying to find something easily accessible from Kanazawa, when I chanced upon the Kaga onsen towns, a series of 5 different towns connected by a local bus line. This region is very near Kanazawa, and an easy train ride, and then an easy commute to Kyoto. There is not a lot written about Kaga onsen, but I chose Yamanaka, one of the 5 towns,
since it sounded the most pleasant to visit, with its walk along a small river gorge which sounded delightful. A recent trip report by (daughter of) Peter_T, who recently visited Yamanaka and loved it, reassured me that this wouldn’t be a total mistake.We arrived in Kaga onsen around 12:30 and the hotel shuttle was scheduled to pick us at 2:00pm. The area around the station was pretty bland and I was a little concerned about what we were getting into. The station is set within a shopping mall so we stored our luggage in a train locker and went off in search of lunch. An easy and good ramen meal in the dining area and then we wandered through the department store. I don’t know about you, but I always love to look at what is on display at a department store wherever we go - it’s often as much fun as any museum.
We found our small shuttle van, and about 25 minutes later, we arrived at Yamanaka Onsen Ohanami Kyubei. This is more of a hotel-ryokan located a short distance outside the town, nicely sited overlooking the Kakusenkei gorge. It’s a bit like being in a resort. Not only do they have a few onsens, It also has some simple activities to participate in if interested (a tea ceremony, making some kind of cookie) and even ping-pong (my husband plays regularly). One can choose their own yakuta and all the accessories, and there were baskets of cookies, crackers and packages of other snacks. When registering, we signed up for an afternoon slot for the private onsen and also chose a dinner time. After settling in, we came downstairs to the large lobby where we were able to get some drinks and snacks before it was time to soak in the onsen. My favorite afternoon treat - my sake tasting!
Have I mentioned how much I’ve fallen in love with the experience of being in an onsen? The first one, in Yarimikan, was without a doubt, the most elegant, soaking outside in such a gorgeous setting; yet each one has been fun in their own way. I thoroughly enjoyed the one in the Kanazawa hotel, with its view of the city below. And here in Yamanaka, with a view to the opposite bank of the river, the onsen was again just a delightful place. I did this both afternoons. I could get used to this.
I didn’t know what the food would be like since this is a mid-range, mid-sized ryokan/hotel, but the meals were fabulous. Dinner and breakfast were held in a large dining room but each table was separated so that there was a sense of privacy. They were wonderful kaiseki dinners and the breakfasts were elaborate as well.
Tomorrow we’re off to explore the town and walk the gorge.
Yamanaka Onsen
The last morning in Kanazawa; I have my morning soak and wash in the woman’s onsen on the top floor. It’s a a wonderful communal activity and, at the same time, people are very discreet and respectful of one another. There are maybe a half dozen other women of varying ages and this is so much more fun than just taking a regular morning shower. Of course, I have to wash before I enter the onsen and I wash after I’ve soaked, so I’m pretty scrubbed clean!
Now I’m very excited to share my “discovery”. In my initial planning for this trip, I was looking for a 2-3 day stop between Kanazawa and Kyoto. I was considering Hiroshima and Miyajima, but I just didn’t want to schlep a long way. Nor did I really want to stay in a large city, even though I heard Hiroshima was a very pleasant city. I spent an inordinate number of hours trying to find something easily accessible from Kanazawa, when I chanced upon the Kaga onsen towns, a series of 5 different towns connected by a local bus line. This region is very near Kanazawa, and an easy train ride, and then an easy commute to Kyoto. There is not a lot written about Kaga onsen, but I chose Yamanaka, one of the 5 towns,
since it sounded the most pleasant to visit, with its walk along a small river gorge which sounded delightful. A recent trip report by (daughter of) Peter_T, who recently visited Yamanaka and loved it, reassured me that this wouldn’t be a total mistake.We arrived in Kaga onsen around 12:30 and the hotel shuttle was scheduled to pick us at 2:00pm. The area around the station was pretty bland and I was a little concerned about what we were getting into. The station is set within a shopping mall so we stored our luggage in a train locker and went off in search of lunch. An easy and good ramen meal in the dining area and then we wandered through the department store. I don’t know about you, but I always love to look at what is on display at a department store wherever we go - it’s often as much fun as any museum.
We found our small shuttle van, and about 25 minutes later, we arrived at Yamanaka Onsen Ohanami Kyubei. This is more of a hotel-ryokan located a short distance outside the town, nicely sited overlooking the Kakusenkei gorge. It’s a bit like being in a resort. Not only do they have a few onsens, It also has some simple activities to participate in if interested (a tea ceremony, making some kind of cookie) and even ping-pong (my husband plays regularly). One can choose their own yakuta and all the accessories, and there were baskets of cookies, crackers and packages of other snacks. When registering, we signed up for an afternoon slot for the private onsen and also chose a dinner time. After settling in, we came downstairs to the large lobby where we were able to get some drinks and snacks before it was time to soak in the onsen. My favorite afternoon treat - my sake tasting!
Have I mentioned how much I’ve fallen in love with the experience of being in an onsen? The first one, in Yarimikan, was without a doubt, the most elegant, soaking outside in such a gorgeous setting; yet each one has been fun in their own way. I thoroughly enjoyed the one in the Kanazawa hotel, with its view of the city below. And here in Yamanaka, with a view to the opposite bank of the river, the onsen was again just a delightful place. I did this both afternoons. I could get used to this.
I didn’t know what the food would be like since this is a mid-range, mid-sized ryokan/hotel, but the meals were fabulous. Dinner and breakfast were held in a large dining room but each table was separated so that there was a sense of privacy. They were wonderful kaiseki dinners and the breakfasts were elaborate as well.
Tomorrow we’re off to explore the town and walk the gorge.
Last edited by progol; Jan 6th, 2024 at 11:54 AM.
Jan 6th, 2024, 11:40 AM
#217
Original Poster
Yamanaka Onsen Ohanami Kyubei
Our spacious room
Sitting area
Sake time! My “sampler” of 3 different sakes
Baking activity - no, we didn’t make these - we watched a couple of women making them and having fun with them
Baking options - here’s what you can make.
Dinner menu with instructions
First course at dinner
Onsen time!
A happy me!
Our spacious room
Sitting area
Sake time! My “sampler” of 3 different sakes
Baking activity - no, we didn’t make these - we watched a couple of women making them and having fun with them
Baking options - here’s what you can make.
Dinner menu with instructions
First course at dinner
Onsen time!
A happy me!
Last edited by progol; Jan 6th, 2024 at 11:55 AM.
Jan 6th, 2024, 01:37 PM
#219
Original Poster
Wednesday, November 8
A day in Yamanaka and a Gorgeous Walk We had a fabulous day! Yamanaka turned out to be a lovely place -a small hot spring town with lots of small touches that added up to a wonderful day.
I had hoped that we’d be able to visit the Natadera Temple, located near Awazu onsen, which is a temple built into the rock that is a sacred site and a very special place. However, the CANBUS, the bus line that goes through the Kaga towns is very limited and taxis are almost nonexistent. I was disappointed at first but I didn’t need to be. Letting the day unfold was perfect.
We took the hotel’s shuttle into town around 11am. First we walked around the town, known for its lacquerware. We walked around the small square with its public bathhouse and walked into the local theater, which has a small historical display. On the weekend, there are geisha performances with traditional singing performed, but alas, we’re here on a weekday. We had some good coffee in a cafe run by a sweet woman who invited us to take a walk through her small but lovely garden behind the cafe. Michael was using his Japanese and she was so taken with him (I hope my presence might’ve helped) that she gave us a gift of chopsticks as we left. This is the second time it’s happened that we’ve been given gifts as we left a shop!
We then poked around a few shops and I picked up a few items of lacquerware. After that, we walked along the river through the Kakusenkei gorge. This was blissful - the sun shining through the trees and sparkling on the water - a very peaceful walk. Then we stopped for a light meal at a cafe that is inside of a historic traditional house that was absolutely beautiful. We then crossed a small bridge which was a short distance from our hotel.
Another soak in the onsen, some ping-pong, and another excellent dinner. A perfect day.
We were here for 2 nights and this turned out to be a fantastic stop. I had taken a chance since I had so little information about the Kaga onsen region, but it was one of the highlights of our trip.
A day in Yamanaka and a Gorgeous Walk We had a fabulous day! Yamanaka turned out to be a lovely place -a small hot spring town with lots of small touches that added up to a wonderful day.
I had hoped that we’d be able to visit the Natadera Temple, located near Awazu onsen, which is a temple built into the rock that is a sacred site and a very special place. However, the CANBUS, the bus line that goes through the Kaga towns is very limited and taxis are almost nonexistent. I was disappointed at first but I didn’t need to be. Letting the day unfold was perfect.
We took the hotel’s shuttle into town around 11am. First we walked around the town, known for its lacquerware. We walked around the small square with its public bathhouse and walked into the local theater, which has a small historical display. On the weekend, there are geisha performances with traditional singing performed, but alas, we’re here on a weekday. We had some good coffee in a cafe run by a sweet woman who invited us to take a walk through her small but lovely garden behind the cafe. Michael was using his Japanese and she was so taken with him (I hope my presence might’ve helped) that she gave us a gift of chopsticks as we left. This is the second time it’s happened that we’ve been given gifts as we left a shop!
We then poked around a few shops and I picked up a few items of lacquerware. After that, we walked along the river through the Kakusenkei gorge. This was blissful - the sun shining through the trees and sparkling on the water - a very peaceful walk. Then we stopped for a light meal at a cafe that is inside of a historic traditional house that was absolutely beautiful. We then crossed a small bridge which was a short distance from our hotel.
Another soak in the onsen, some ping-pong, and another excellent dinner. A perfect day.
We were here for 2 nights and this turned out to be a fantastic stop. I had taken a chance since I had so little information about the Kaga onsen region, but it was one of the highlights of our trip.
Last edited by progol; Jan 6th, 2024 at 01:52 PM.
