My friend and I will have a little over 3 weeks in Japan and this is the first draft of our itinerary. It will be the first trip for both of us. We have our airfares and have to arrive and depart from Tokyo. We are planning to purchase the 3 week JR pass to get around. Travelling by train is a new experience to me and I am a little concerned about all the train trips we are taking, having to make changes and carting around our luggage (although I will certainly pack light). On all my trips to Europe I have hired a car so have only had to worry about getting my luggage from the room down to the car, no timetables, missed train connections etc. My friend is a very experienced train traveller though. Mind you, after her trip to France with me about 4 years ago by car, she has says she has seen the light and used a car on her subsequent trips! LOL

You will see from the itinerary that we are more interested in rural Japan rather than the cities. Tokyo itself doesn’t have a huge appeal to us although we definitely do want to see a little bit of the hi-tech/consumerism side of Japan as well. Kyoto has more interest because of its plethora of historical sites/temples.

Sep 22 - Arrive in Toyko in the early evening.
Sep 23 - Tokyo
Sep 24 - Nikko
Sep 25 - Nikko
Sep 26 – Kyoto
Sep 27 – Kyoto (day trip to Nara)
Sep 28 - Kyoto
Sep 29 - Kyoto
Sep 30 – Miyajima (stop at Himeji on the way)
Oct 1 - Miyajima
Oct 2 – Shikoku (travel by ferry from Hiroshima to Matsuyama)
Oct 3 – Shikoku
Oct 4 - Shikoku
Oct 5 - Shikoku
Oct 6 – Magome or Tsumago
Oct 7 – Magome or Tsumago (do walk between the towns)
Oct 8 - Takayama
Oct 9 – Takayama (day trip to Shirakawa-go – festival in the evening)
Oct 10 – Takayama (festival in the evening)
Oct 11 – Bus to Matsumoto and then afternoon train to Tokyo)
Oct 12 - Tokyo
Oct 13 – Tokyo (have to head out to Narita to collect friend late afternoon)
Oct 14 – Tokyo (I leave Japan late afternoon) (Friends might do day trip to Kamakura)
Oct 15 – Friends leave late afternoon for Europe


Does this sound a feasible plan and also the order in which I have arranged it. The dates for Takayama are set and likewise we must be back in Tokyo on the 12th in order to collect to pick up our friend.

We have included four nights on Shikoku which I know is unusual but we really like the idea of getting away from all the usual tourist hot spots. I realise that to take the train wouldn't cost anything with the JR Pass but a fery trip through the Inland Sea sounds as though it might be quite pleasant. We would definitely go to Matsuyama and Takamatsu but have nothing definite after that. We are toying with the idea of hiring a car in Takamatsu for 3 days or so to get around the island. We might well drop a day off Shikoku and would probably add it to Kyoto and do another day trip from there. I suppose Mount Koya is also a possibility but it doesn’t really excite us.

We have also thought of going to Kanazawa for a night after Takayama and then continuing on to Matsumoto and Tokyo but it means packing up and moving on yet again. As we will see the gardens at Ritsurin in Shikoku, may be missing the one in Kanazawa won’t seem so bad.

I would appreciate your comments and suggestions.

We have enoyed Shikoku a lot.Takamatsu is interesting with beautiful gardens and wonderful seafood to eat.There is a good Iasamu Noguchi Museum in Takamatsu. We also did some walking to pilgrimage sites. We also went to a wonderful bunraku performance in a little town that was presented by locals.We also spent 2 nights at Bennesse House, an "ART" island ,very easy to get to and an amazing experience.What you see and expenience there is hard to describe,but it will be remembered.We also went to a local dance performance,where the audience was invited up on stage to participate-a lot of fun! Accommodations were a night at the ANA hotel in Takamatsu, 2 nights at Bennesse and 2 nights at an inn in Naruto. Your itinerary looks really good.Enjoy Japan.






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Hi shandy,

A couple of things I've noticed.

First of all, I don't think it's practical to transfer from Shikoku to Magome/Tsumago, unless you're taking a domestic flight to Nagoya or Matsumoto. I would include this after Tokyo, considering the area is best approached either via Nagoya or via Matsumoto. The main attraction thre is to hike between the two villages, which takes about 3hrs or so.

Takayama-Kanazawa has good connection, either by non-JR bus or by train (1 change included). I can easily spend 2 full days in Takayama, 3 days in Kanazawa.

Local expert can probably give better advice, but I think October is a good season for autumnal leaves in Kyoto. Thought it is more of mid-October, so you may want to basically structure in the order of Tokyo-Matsumoto-Takayama-Magome-Kyoto.

I've never been to Shikoku so absolutely no comments.

Next about the transportation. I'm not sure if you really need 3 weeks of JR pass. You might want to check how much Tokyo-Kyoto fare one-way would cost (25-26 Sep). I suspect it is less than 1week JR Pass. Then you can manage with 2 week pass activated on 29 Sept. Transportation within Tokyo is mainly metro (non-JR), you take a non-JR train to Nikko, and I mostly used bus within Kyoto.

One more thing you should explore is the discount domestic fare on airlines. It is called Yokoso fare on JAL, and ANA has an equivalent fare. I think JAL's version costs JPY10,000 or so per domestic segment if one flies OneWorld carriers (CX, AA, BA etc)to/from Japan. Similar scheme with ANA if you fly Star Alliance (UA, LH, SAS, etc). Which airlines are you/your friend using? It may be a good way to cover Kanazawa and Shikoku out of Tokyo or Osaka. Unlike most international airport, I found Haneda to be a pleasant experience--security check took only about 10min including a brief queue.

I'm rather ambivalent about renting a car in Shikoku. When we rented one, I found it rather difficult experience--navigating, roadsigns, trying to figure out how to change sat nav to English, communicaiton with rental agency staff. Frankly, we did it only because there was a Japanese family friend who was travelling with us. Costs are not cheap--you pay thousands of yen for using toll-roads (sometimes in multiple segments), petrol is not cheap (though better than in UK). On the other hand, not sure how well JR covers Shikoku.

mflickermd – I am glad to hear that you really enjoyed Shikoku. My only info about it mainly comes from the guidebooks, rather than people who have actually travelled there. How did you get about the island? Did you find public transport worked well enough? I would like to know more about the bunraku performance as well. How does it differ to kabuki?

W9London – thanks for your comments. It is interesting to note your comments about the car you hired so will give serious consideration to that. If we did hire a car I would take my own GPS with me and I was assuming that over on Shikoku there wouldn’t be many toll roads but, to tell the truth, I have not investigated this at all yet.

You are quite right about the Kiso Valley section of the itinerary. This is the part that is causing me the most concern as being the hardest section logistically and we have wondered whether it is worth the effort. It is 6 ½ hrs and 2 changes from Takamatsu to Magome (not including the little bus trip at the end) so it would certainly not be a fun day. Unfortunately the routing you suggest, although more logical, doesn’t work because we would miss the festival in Takayama which we are keen to attend. In fact, I suppose it the dates for Takayama being set that makes for our difficulties. Unless we went up to Kiso Valley from Kyoto and then returned back to Kyoto for another night it seems we are up for a long trip every which way, and to split our time in Kyoto seems just as silly. Why pack up and move on yet again. To go straight from Kiso Valley onwards to Miyajima is just as bad as the original itinerary. Anyway, this is why the itinerary allows a whole day simply for getting from Takamatsu to Magome and then do the walk the next day.

If anyone has a brilliant idea of how to fit it in better I would love to hear it, or even dropping it altogether and substituting it with something else.

Thanks for your comments re the JR Pass too. I hadn’t thought of paying for the Tokyo/Kyoto section of the trip separately and then buying a two week pass.

A two week pass plus the one-way ticket costs more than the three week pass. You can also use it to get to Nikko and from the airport (22nd thru 12th). Or use it to get to Nikko and TO the airport (24th thru 14th). Both are 21-days. Using a limo bus between the aiprort and your Tokyo hotel is a good idea on arrival, at least, because of luggage and because it is door to door.

By traveling light, I hope you mean one piece of luggage. There is a luggage delivery service in Japan that you might enjoy using. It is inexpensive and reliable.

Autumn colors don't get to Kyoto until the third week of November.

You are correct, shandy, that taking the hydrofoil across the Seto Nai Kai is enjoyable. I took it at sunset from Matsuyama to Hiroshima and thoroughly enjoyed it - it is worth the cost as entertainment, imo.

There is a magnificent onsen bathhouse in Matsuyama - Dogo Onsen. It has quite a history and I strongly recommend going there for a soak (and go upstairs after).

Matsuyama castle is also a must-see.

In Matsuyama, I recommend the Hotel Patio Dogo. It is across the street from the onsen honkan. A short walk from the end of the street car line.

Your itinerary looks good. W9 and you are right about the Shikoku to Kiso Valley part of the itinerary.

You will want to get reserved seats for your Takayama trains in advance because of the festival. I would do it when picking up the pass.

No, it is 5 hours from Takamatsu to Nakatsugawa. It can be done in 4h 40m. From Nakatsugawa to Magome you take the bus.

I wouldn't move Kiso Valley to a different part of your itin. I'd remove it before doing that.

You could take a day from Shikoku and stop at Nara enroute from Shikoku to Magome.

You could stop at Nagoya for the night then walk the Nakasendo the next day.

You could skip Kiso Valley and go straight thru to Takayama. Spend a night in Shirakawago.

I highly recommend visiting the Peace Park and memorial in Hiroshima on the 30th or the 1st. You could spend the afternoon (from 2PM?) and night of the 30th in Hiroshima.

What is your objective on October 11?

mr wunrfl, thanks for all your comments. I often see your name on this board and it is lovely to get your input.

In terms of the JR Pass I had been thinking that we would catch the Airport Limo Bus in from the airport and then activate the day we go to Nikko. As the hotel I am thinking of staying at is a drop off point for the bus that seemed best. Would also mean that won't have to worry about the complexities of the train for the first time late at night and with luggage.

Incidentally can you tell me about TCAT terminal. I read in one guidebook that it is a good option for when travelling back to the airport because you can check your luggage, get boarding passes etc there and avoid all the lines at Narita. If this is such a good option I am surprised that I haven't come across it as a suggestion on the board.

Glad to hear that your enjoyed the trip between Matsuyama and Hiroshima. Good to know that even by hydrofoil it is nice. I was a little concerned that it wouldn't be as pleasant by hydrofoil as it is by the slow ferry. I thought may be it was a bit noisy and the speed didn't give you time to enjoy it. We will be visiting the castle and onsen whilst at Matsuyama and thanks for the tip on the hotel. Re Peace Park etc. Oct 1 does the seem the best time to pop it in.

Can you tell me how you got 5 hrs or even less between Takamatsu and Nakatsugawa. Each time I have looked at it I come up with about 6 hrs or more. I must be doing something wrong. I think we would prefer to just push on rather than introduce a one night stop at Nagoya.

Will certainly be reserving trains for Takayama and bus trips to Shirakawa-go and Matsuyama beforehand as it will be so busy. I already have accommodation booked for Takayama itself. The reason for October 11 it to spend some time looking at Matsuyama castle before heading back to Tokyo. We might even spend the night there and head back to Tokyo the following day. Haven't really decided on that yet.

To Shandy":
We got around by ferry,train and occassional taxi.Bunrakku is an ancient form of puppet theater where the puppeteer dresses all in black and is on stage and manipulates the puppet.The puppeteer is in full view,but after a while, you forget about him or her.The puppets are almost life-size and after the performance ,there was a lecture,which one could get a lot out of, even though the English was minimal.The odori dancing was in the ugly city of Tokoshima,but the performance was a lot of fun.I hope this answers your questions.

Although your itinerary sounds very well thought out and sounds good overall, I noticed that you said you were interested in rural Japan rather than cities. I know nothing about your plans for Shikoku, so it may be rural, or maybe not.

With the exception of Magome, Tsumago and Shirakawa-go, the rest of your itinerary is not rural. Even these places are not rural in the sense that you will see country life...all are heavily touristed and geared up with lots of souvenir shops and restaurants. Miyajima is even more touristed than the 3 other places.

It has been my experience that touristy areas are not really a good example of rural Japan, and you may want to keep that in mind. Your itinerary is fine, but does not include off the beaten path or truly rural places.

About toll roads...major highways have tolls, and they are not inexpensive. Many bridges also have not insignificant tolls. To cover long distance, toll roads are really the only reasonable way to go...free roads are free, but slow, with much local traffic, many traffic lights, and low speed of driving.

I suppose the hydrofoil was noisy. The train ride across the inland sea is spectacular and you'll see that when you leave Shikoku.

I took the bus from Takayama over the mountains to Matsumoto. Stopped at Kamikochi for lunch, a soak, and a walk. It is fairly scenic there. Some folks were there to do some serious hiking. If you stop at Kamikochi it would be a good idea to get your onward bus ticket when you arrive. I spent a few hours there and then went on to Matsumoto for the night. Visited the castle in the morning and then went on to Nagano for a quick stop to see the Zenkoji and then on to Tokyo. If I did it over again I might spend the night in Kamikochi or nearby.

http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/rtg/pdf/pg-409.pdf

At hyperdia, Search for station name:
Start Point: Takamatsu
Destination: Nakatsugawa
press Search

On Seach condition setting, choose:
Date: April 30, 2008, 10:30 Departure

choose Start Point TAKAMATSU(KAGAWA)
uncheck 'Airline'
check 'excepts NOZOMI'
press Start

You'll see a couple of 5h 1m options, 5h 15m, and the fourth option is 4h 40m.

The Magome that shows up on hyperdia is over in the Tokyo metro area.

No trains go to the Magome that is in Chubu and it doesn't appear in hyperdia.

Kimjapan, thanks for your comments. I suppose what I was really trying to convey was that we don't want to spend much time in Tokyo itself -only 2 1/2 days out of a trip over three weeks long. But, yes, the idea of Shikoku is hopefully to get off the beaten track.

In the case of Miyajima I am hoping that we will get a chance to see it without quite so many crowds once the day trippers have gone and we will be going before it is in full autumn colours when obviously it will be very popular. Am I wrong in assuming that Nikko would be more rural. We want to get out to the Lake, waterfalls etc. or you mainly referring to it as certainly not beinbg off the beaten path. On investigating a bit more I realise that Takayama is probably quite a lot bigger than I imagined, however we are mainly going for the festival.

You are no doubt right in saying that (apart from Shikoku) all the places we are going to are very touristy, but as it is our first time we obviously want to see them. May be next time we can really get off the beaten track having done the "must sees".

Mflickermd - its good to see that you were able to get around the island alright via public transport and the occasional taxi. I have taken note that Tokoshima was a rather ugly city so will keep that in mind. I don't think that it was on my list anyway.

Mrwunrfl - I will keep open the idea of whether to use the ferry or the hydrofoil. If we have plenty of time I think we would opt for the ferry.

I don't know what I was doing wrong on my search on hyperdia. I was putting in Nakatsugawa as my final destination so am not sure why I was getting 6 hr plus trips. Perhaps, I was getting confused with all the various combinations I have been looking up and started at Matsuyama on the island instead of Takamatsu. Regardless, 5 hours sounds better than 6 1/2 hrs.

I noticed that you stopped at Kamikochi on the way across to Matsuyama. Was there somewhere convenient to store luggage there for just a few hours? I will also have a look at spending the night there and then moving on to Tokyo the next morning. Is the bus trip across the alps very windy - I tend to get car sick?

Yes, there was a booth right at the bus stop where you could store luggage.

Just saw the last sentence of your post. Yes, it is a winding road, as I remember it. This is basically a city bus traveling on two lane mountain roads. You would want to pack your Dramamine if you go this route.

Yes, you probably should take the ferry if there is one.