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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 09:49 AM
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First time in Japan

Hi everyone,

We are a couple (28 and 30) living in the UK and we have decided to go to Japan around Easter time next year. It's a dream for both of us and we're really, really excited about it, but haven't planned much yet...we're hoping to book flights soon and then gradually plan everything else.

Our idea is to go for around 2 weeks in March/April...are there any days we should avoid for whatever reason (national holidays etc)? We were thinking of flying to Tokyo, spending 4-6 days there, then visiting a few other cities. We're pretty much open to all suggestions, but definitely want to visit Mt Fuji, stay in a ryokan, take the bullet train (we were thinking of a 7-day JR pass for the week we're outside Tokyo?) and perhaps try a cooking class if we could find one which was reasonably priced. We would like to keep costs as low as possible, but understand that Japan is not a cheap country and that skimping too much will affect our enjoyment of the trip, so while we're not going to be staying in the Ritz, we don't need to do overnight buses etc either.

Would anyone be able to advise on Tokyo hotels? We're looking for somewhere clean, in a safe area and in a convenient location for getting around the city (i.e. close to metro). It doesn't need to be fancy - we usually just use hotels for sleeping in, so hotel facilities aren't hugely important. Suggestions of what else to do on our trip are very welcome too!

So excited and can't wait to finally get to Japan!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 10:07 AM
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My partner and I recently returned from our first trip to Japan. I had expected to love Tokyo - we are such city people - but found it was the least interesting of the places we visited. You may be different. We loved Kanazawa and we loved Kyoto and we loved Hakone.

Also, just because you are taking trains doesn't mean that a JR pass makes sense for you. You'll need to add up what your train journeys will cost and see if a JR pass is cost-effective for you. www.hyperdia.com for the train schedules and prices.

Also think about whether you want to visit Mt. Fuji or whether you want fabulous views of Fuji-san. If it is views you are after, consider Hakone.

No doubt, you'll want to try to time it for the sakura at at least one of your stops.

We were there at the perfect time for the koyo. Our photos are at www.marlandc.com My trip report can be found by clicking on my name.

Also, take a look at www.japan-guide.com one of the best resources we found for trip planning.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Hi mariposa.

If you skim to the bottom of my trip report

http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...rip-report.cfm

You will find a section on Budget where I give a method for estimating a budget for anything from shoestring/backpacker up through moderate category. Try to have at least a rough idea of budget; it would help if you could name a hotel chain or even just a hotel (with website) in the UK that would suit your needs in terms of comfort, so that people have some kind of reference guide. Japan can be both surprisingly affordable (lots of clean hotels around 7000 to 10000 yen but the rooms will be tiny and you may have to commute a tad further) or very, very expensive.

Don't book your flights till you get at least a rough itinerary down. We flew into Osaka, took a bus from the airport to Kyoto, stayed there 5 nights, then used our 7 day JR passes to travel to 3 places between Kyoto and Tokyo; we flew out of Tokyo. Many people do something similar but in reverse. In other words, an open jaw flight might work best.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:12 PM
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Ah, I have it. If you are from the UK, you should be familiar with the Accor hotel chain, and with the Starwood fleet (Sheraton, Westin). While you may not wish to stay in chain hotels, or at least Western chain hotels, the point is that these outfits offer a range of hotel categories that are familiar to most people on this board. This helps people understand the kind of room you're looking for.

If you can tolerate something that makes an Ibis hotel look spacious, but which is otherwise clean, you can get by for very little money. If you want something closer in size to a Sheraton room or even a Novotel/Mercure room, there will be a significant increase in price. And for something like Sofitel, i.e. a room both spacious and well appointed and exceptionally well located, bring money. Lots. The price will also vary by location (Tokyo and Kyoto are of course more expensive than smaller cities.)
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:33 PM
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Hi!

Thanks for the replies. From what I've read about the JR pass (which admittedly isn't that much), even a return trip between cities can cost more than a 7-day pass, so it's wise to buy one if you're taking any bullet trains. Is that true? Perhaps 5-6 days would be too long in Tokyo. I think we'll love it but I know there's plenty else to see in Japan. I just figured we'd be a little jetlagged for at least the first day and not want to run around too much. Depends on how the flights work out though and how much sleep we get on the journey! As for Mt Fuji, I gather Easter isn't a good time to climb it, so perhaps just seeing it would be fine. We do like hiking though - any recommendations for that?

As for budgets...our requirement for the hotel is pretty much just that it's clean and hygienic - no mould, no stains on carpets, no bedbugs, gets cleaned daily, no shared bathroom facilities - and that the bed is reasonably comfortable. Luxury isn't important to us but cleanliness and location are. Wi-fi access would be a huge bonus, though. Something like the Premier Inn chain (http://www.premierinn.com/) in the UK would be great. We're prepared to spend more on a really good ryokan when we go outside Tokyo.

This is a rookie question I know, but how do you go about booking open-jaw tickets? Are they much more expensive than a straightforward return? We usually use eDreams or something like that to find the cheapest deal and then book direct with the airline. I have no experience of open jaw tickets as we've never needed them yet!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:40 PM
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Hi Sue,

We really don't mind too much about the hotel. Western chains are fine, as is anything else. Ibis-size rooms are fine - we're European, so well used to small hotel rooms! As long as the bed is big enough for us both to sleep comfortably and there's at least a reasonable amount of storage space (wardrobe with coathangers etc), we're not too fussy. Are non-smoking rooms standard/common in Japan? We're both asthmatic so the smoking thing is a little bit of a concern.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:49 PM
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I'm not familiar with eDreams, but on Kayak.com and many other booking sites, you'll see the option to book "one way", "round trip" and something like "multiple destinations". Try booking a round trip, then simply compare with a trip that arrives in Tokyo and departs in Osaka. Often the price is the same, saving you the stress and expense of a trip back to your starting point.

March and April can still be pretty wet and cold, so hiking might be something you can do if the opportunity presents itself. I wouldn't plan my trip around it at that time of year, and I don't think Fuji is open then.

I like the Roppongi B Hotel in Tokyo. It is reasonably priced, practically on top of a subway/train station and in an interesting neighborhood. Very clean and nice staff.

School holidays will be mid March to early April in 2014, so I'd avoid that time if possible. Golden week is not till the very end of April.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:58 PM
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Ah ok, thanks, we'll look into it. Hiking would be nice if we get the weather but it's not our main interest so it's fine if we can't do it. Can we expect lots of rain in Japan in March/April then?

We are both teachers, so we do have to take most of our trips at official school holiday times. Why do you say to avoid that time? Because of airfare/hotel prices, overcrowding at tourist sites or something else?
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 04:27 PM
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As lcuy says, use the 'multiple destinations' option to book an open jaw.

We hiked between two charming villages, Magome and Tsumago as a daytrip from Nagoya in mid-April, it was fine. It's not a long hike, maybe 3 hours, but fun. You can also rent bikes in Kyoto if biking is your thing. It is definitely too early to hike Fuji in March or April, but many people plan trips to Hakone to see the mountain as a 'view'...sometimes as a day trip from Tokyo. You can also see Fuji from the train between Kyoto and Tokyo, but regardless, don't count on seeing a crystal clear view of Fuji: it's often under cloud.

We had rain, let's see...two out of 14 days in April, and a couple of days were cloudy on top of that. We might have been lucky. Up in the mountains known as the "Japanese alps" it was definitely chilly - the cherry blossoms hadn't opened, and there was a dusting of snow in the mornings (which soon melted.) Elsewhere, i.e. at lower elevations, the cherry blossoms were well under way; going about was most comfortable with a light 'shell' over a long-sleeved shirt and sometimes a sweater. As in the UK, spring weather can vary a lot.

Going in March (at least up until cherry blossom season begins, generally in late March) will obviously mean cooler temperatures but prices and airfares should definitely be lower.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 04:28 PM
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For excellent information about just about anything you might want to know about Japan, see japan-guide.com

For information about ryokan, see japaneseguesthouses.com
IME, one of the most affordable was Momiji-so in Miyajima
http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/r...yokan=Momijiso

Japan is fascinating - enjoy!
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 10:39 AM
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Hi everyone,

I've been looking at hotels today and have been pleasantly surprised by the prices - looks like we could get a decent 3-star for under £350/$560 for 5 nights...does that sound normal? Many of the hotels are called 'Tokyo Inn something or other' or 'MyStays something or other' - are these chains? Does anyone have any experience of them? Unfortunately, the B Roppongi is very expensive on our provisional dates. Are there any particular areas which would be really good to stay in - central or in an area with really good nightlife?
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 01:42 PM
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mariposa85 - I have stayed at many Toyoko Inns (a large chain) all over Japan and Mystays (a smaller chain) in Tokyo and Fukuoka.

I travel alone so have not experienced a double/twin room. Mystays is a bit more upscale than TI. TIs have an included breakfast.

Both are certainly adequate imo - always clean and staff helpful although sometimes there are language issues in smaller places....

They both have non-smoking rooms - you indicate that when you reserve.

Not too much storage in TIs but the suitcase can go under the bed.
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Old Nov 25th, 2013, 07:21 AM
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Want to respond in more detail, tomorrow but just got home from 4 days away and am off out again in few minutes.

But while you're looking at hotels, another chain to check is Dormy Inn, we've stayed in a number over our 2 trips to Japan and found them very good.

We also got some great deals on both Agoda.com (last trip) and booking.com (this most recent trip). We switched because Agoda requires payment up front (though you can cancel/ be refunded for most bookings) whereas booking.com doesn't require payment up front.

Found some great deals.

Will write more on specific recommendations and ideas tomorrow, incl fab affordable cooking class we did in Kyoto this time and loved.
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Old Nov 26th, 2013, 12:31 AM
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Last year we flew from UK to Tokyo, had 17 nights there.
Our itinerary was 2 nights Tokyo, 2 nights Takayama, 1 night Nara, 5 nights Kyoto, 1 night Koyasan, 1 night Osaka, 1 night Miyajima and then 4 nights back in Tokyo. This trip was in October.

This worked very well for us.

This year we returned for 19 nights, in late October/ early November. We did a single night in Tokyo, then 6 nights Kyoto, 2 nights Osaka, 2 nights Kumamoto, 2 nights Kurokawa Onsen, 2 nights Yufuin, 2 nights Fukuoka and then a last 2 nights in Tokyo.

As you can tell, we loved Kyoto so much on the first trip we gave it lots of time on the second. Actually, we adjusted the second trip itinerary a touch during our Kyoto stay, dropping a couple of nights we'd set aside for Kobe and giving one extra to Kyoto and Osaka each.

I'm guessing Tokyo and Kyoto are a given for you. We really enjoyed both but we found we loved Kyoto more. Perhaps because we found it more approachable, easier to get our bearings and get a feel for the city. Tokyo is so enormous it really is many cities in one, which makes it harder to get your head around it as one entity, but also means there's a lot to see and do. I'd go back for another 2 weeks in Kyoto in a heartbeat!

For the rest, we loved overnighting in Nara, though perhaps some of that is because we were lucky enough to be the only guests in our ryokan, had a room that we just adored, and the best kaiseki ryori meal of the trip as well. http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/01/kai...o-in-nara.html

I would also not have missed our overnight in a temple on Koya-san. When looking into it, it seems the travel is a bit of a pain but actually we found it a very pleasant and enjoyable journey. We stayed in Shojoshin-in, right next door to the famous Okunoin graveyard, which was a great location. We also paid a little more for the private hanare (a beautiful traditional building next to the main building, which gave us our own rooms and private bathroom). For us, that was worth it, but those who stay in the regular accommodation (shared bathrooms) seem happy with this temple too.

Unusually, especially given our love of food, we haven't warmed hugely to Osaka. I know people adore it, but we didn't. We did appreciate walking around Doutonbori neighbourhood and I absolutely loved the Kurumon Ichiba (food market) but those can be enjoyed with a single night visit, or at a pinch, on a day trip from your Kyoto base. Of course, many Osaka fans will be able to give you better reasons to stay there longer.

We took the train from Kansai region to Hiroshima, spent a few hours visiting the peace park and museum before hopping across to Miyajima. We gave ourselves and afternoon and overnight there, which we enjoyed, before crossing back mid morning and heading all the way back to Tokyo on the shinkansen. Here are some photos of the famous floating gate there: http://www.kaveyeats.com/2013/03/mes...of-love-5.html

If you have 14 nights, my suggested starting point for an itinerary would be a couple of days in Tokyo on arrival, then head to Kyoto region for 7 nights, splitting them between Kyoto and your choices of Nara, Koya-san, Osaka, Hiroshima/Miyajima. Don't sell yourself short on nights in Kyoto itself though. Then come back to Tokyo, giving yourself 3-4 nights in the city itself and 1-2 nights on a trip out to somewhere with an onsen, maybe Hakone (we've not been yet but will do next time). You could enjoy a traditional ryokan experience there too.

I prefer to have accommodation booked in advance, partly because that's just my personality, but also because we're quite demanding on what we want - a high level of comfort and cleanliness with en suite bathroom a must, a very good location as close as possible to convenient subway station/ bus routes plus an affordable rate (10,000 to 13,000 Yen per night, for us). And we can't do the Japanese semi-doubles, those beds are too small for us, so I feel more confident about hitting those three cornerstones by researching and booking in advance. That said, using booking.com (and Agoda.com) I only chose properties that gave me cancellation up to just a couple of days before, so it was easy when we decided to switch our itinerary around. We just logged on and booked the new places, then cancelled the Kobe hotel before the deadline.

The cookery class we did was with Emi at Uzuki Cooking, and we thought it wonderful. It's in her home, a traditional Kyoto house, in her lovely welcoming kitchen. It's private for your group. And it costs just 5,000 Yen per person, which is way less than the cookery classes I found in Tokyo. Of course, you talk, you cook and you eat during the few hours duration of the class. Cannot recommend it highly enough.

By the way, the JR Pass is fantastic value, but it's not necessarily the case that you will need it. You absolutely need to work out your itinerary and then cost the train journeys you plan to make using hyperdia.com (including both the fare and the seat reservation price). On our first trip, it saved as a bundle. On our second trip, we just had two main shinkansen trips, too far apart for a 7 day pass, and it was therefore definitely not worthwhile for us to get a pass.
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Old Nov 26th, 2013, 01:21 PM
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Wow, thanks for the reply! We haven't got around to looking at a complete itinerary yet but Tokyo and Kyoto are definites. Is the Kyoto region a good place to see the cherry blossoms (if they're out when we're there)? We do have 14 nights but that is starting to seem quite short, with all the things we want to do! The cooking class sounds amazing - would it be possible for only 2 people to do it? Good point about the JR pass - I think we will have to finalise our itinerary before we make any further plans, so we know what we're working with. Thanks again!
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Old Nov 26th, 2013, 11:56 PM
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You'll have to look up the timings to plan for when sakura peak in Kyoto, but yes I'm sure it'd be a great place to view them. Many of the parks and temple gardens plant at least one area specifically for sakura, from what I've read.

But as we've not been to Japan in sakura season ourselves, I can't share specific recommendations.

I think Japan Guide has a page dedicated to sakura viewing.

We did the cookery class with just the two of us. As Emi is very popular because the class is excellent and great value, and the word is out, I'd try and book AS SOON as you've got your dates in Kyoto nailed down, even before you worry about accommodation!!! And you can confirm with her at that time that you would like a private class. But I think that's the default anyway...
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Old Nov 27th, 2013, 03:29 AM
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We're looking at staying in Japan for 2 weeks, late March and early April, does that sound about right for cherry blossoms? We haven't set our heart on it or anything but it would be nice to see them if we happen to be there at the right time!

Thanks for the tip about Emi, will get onto that asap.

One thing...the flights we've found have us landing in Tokyo at 04.30 am - is that likely to be an issue, hotel wise? We were intending to pay for that night's hotel in Tokyo, check in in the early morning and get a few hours' sleep before starting our day. Do most hotels have overnight staff for (very) late check-ins? I suspect we'll be tired and jetlagged, as we have a 'daytime' flight leaving Heathrow early in the morning, so we probably won't sleep much on the plane (body clock will still be at around 5pm on arrival in Japan!)
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Old Nov 27th, 2013, 04:01 AM
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I can't comment further on Sakura as I've not been myself, but check out the Japan Guide pages and see if they have more info.

On this trip, we landed mid morning and reached our hotel a little before noon. One thing we have discovered is that Japanese hotels do not offer early check in routinely, even if the rooms are ready. Some hotels sell this as an extra, but it's usually shockingly expensive.

I think you should be OK purchasing a full night and arriving in the early hours, but you can check this on booking. For example, if you find a hotel you like on booking. com, that offers free cancellation up to 3 nights before, then go ahead and make the booking, then send the message through the site to ask the hotel whether a) they are happy to hold the room until your early morning arrival and will 100% guarantee that they won't give it away and b) whether they have staff on the desk to check you in. I can't see the latter being an issue, as by the time you retrieve luggage and make your way into Tokyo, it'll be 6 am and reception is surely going to be manned by then. If the hotel comes back saying they can't do this, you can cancel it without penalty and find somewhere else. You might even find a hotel that will charge you a reduced rate as you'll only be using a very few hours that morning.
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Old Nov 27th, 2013, 04:32 AM
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Japan-guide.com puts out a 'cherry blossom guide' -

http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2011.html

and a yearly 'progress report' submitted by readers who live in Japan and thus know exactly how the blossoms are coming along. In 2013, the blossoms came earlier than expected:

http://www.japan-guide.com/blog/sakura13/

but in 2012, they were late!

With those caveats, on average, late March/early June is about right for Tokyo/Kyoto. In Kyoto especially, and especially on weekends during sakura, you MUST book well in advance - and expect to pay a 'sakura premium' for price - because it is very popular with Japanese to make a party 'hanami' out of cherry blossom viewing.

I'd suggest the Citadines apartment-hotel for Kyoto, and maybe even Tokyo (in the Shinjuku neighbourhood) as well. They will be a bit more expensive than a Toyoko Inn, but according to those who have stayed there, you get a slightly larger room (which will make a big difference) and best of all, you get a small kitchenette in your room (e.g. microwave, small fridge, kettle, maybe a rice cooker and so on). And laundry machines will generally be available in your hotel to use for a nominal fee. (I think that laundry machines might be available in Toyoko Inn as well.)
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Old Nov 27th, 2013, 04:37 AM
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ack. Late March/early April. Not early June, waaay too late for sakura!
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