Based on earlier feedback from forum members, I am now thinking of driving rather than flying between Jodhpur and Udaipur with a stop in Ranakhpur. We are staying at Udaivilas in Udapur.

Has anyone driven this leg? Is it a good idea? Any better suggestions?

(if you would like to see original itinerary, click on my screen name)

I forgot to mention that the drive between the Jodhpur and Udaipur will be on December 29 or 30th so it will not be hot. We have a private driver.

Hi BH-we hired a car/driver from Jaipur to Udaipur, stayed overnight at Deogarh Mahal Palace & visited the magic Ranakpur Temples on our way to Udaipur. Cost should be much cheaper from Jodhpur. We paid 4800 INR which included 900 kms. This included a return trip for the driver and 1-2 days in Udaipur sightseeing city & surrounds etc. We organised this thru Jasvilas in Jaipur but your hotel in Jodhpur should be able to organise for you. Request a very experienced driver with knowledge of Rajasthan. We got an inexperienced nice young man who kept getting lost, but we had fun anyway! Wear a blindfold as the roads/oncoming trucks are pretty awful unless you are on the main highway. Even then it's a bit hectic! Have fun!

Sorry I see you have a driver. How much are they quoting you? We intend to return to Rajasthan in Dec 2005 so price will help us in our budgeting. Tks.

Hi Lyndie,

Thanks for the info on the drive. I'll remember to bring that blindfold .

I am not certain of the price of the driver as it is all rolled up in the price of our tour. I'll see if I can get a number from them.

Hi BH-you have a good sense of humour. Primary requirement for any trip to India. We laughed until we cried! If you cannot get price, no worries. Tks anyway. You'll have a great trip!!!

I've driven the Udaipur-Jodhpur leg in February, with a driver. If you have the full day available for your drive and visits underway, you could also take into consideration to make a (quite feasible) deviation from the main road to go and see Kumbalgahr. It is absolutely beautiful. Actually, I like it better than Ranakpur, although Ranakpur is nice too.
On this board I have posted a trip report about my february trip Rajastan-Goa. Go and have a look at my impressions of both places, and of Jodhpur.

Dear Boston Harbor,

I recommend the drive to and from Jodhpu we went from Rohet Garh south of Jodhpur to Jaislemer and back to Jodhpur last December and enjoyed the trip. We stopped at Manvar for lunch as a small rather attractive desert resort.

I highly recommend the agency we used to book the car Parul Travels. The owner Ramesh Dashora could not have been nicer and we were happy with both the driver and the car a wonderful Ambassador.His website is rajasthan-travels-bycab.com and he is recommended by several guidebooks.

WE were rather nervous as we had not sent any money and he didn't ask for a credit number but when we arrived at Udaipurairport there was the driver with our names on a small sign. What a relief!

Many thanks for all the great information.

Another question. This is my first trip to India. The only other country that I have visited in Asia is China and the roads were good. However, according to the US state dept. counselor sheet on India they make the roads sound really treacherous. I'm going to drive anyway (and cram, thanks for the tip on Kumbalgahr--sounds great--I'll look up your trip for more info.) Are the roads that bad? I just want to be prepared.

I am so looking forward to this trip. (even with all the "issues"

Please excuse that horrid emoticon I seem to have created in the last post. It looks demented. I wanted a nice pleasant little smile. Oh, well.

The "issues" comment was from a prior discussion I had with forum members on some of the travel and culture difficulties/opportunities of traveling in India.

Cram, your trip report on Rajastan-Goa was fabulous! What a remarkable writer you are. I have bookmarked your report in my India folder. Thanks for sharing such great descriptions of a place you obviously loved.

The roads are not necessarily bad, but they are narrow, sometimes bumpy and always very crowdy. India is a country of crowds. People, villages, cattle, etc etc. Result: unless you are on one of the few real motorways, like Delhi-Jaipur, you make an average that does not exceed 30-35 kmph. Take that as a general rule in your time planning.
I also agree that the stretch Jodhpur-Jaisalmer can well be done by car. I did in Feb. Happy travels

Boston Harbor,
We drove all over Rajasthan and didn't find the roads too bad although one stretch on the bassi-Bundi road was awful.

For us the worst of the driving was on the roads near Jaipur which were really quite awful...because of the volume of traffic (cars, cows, camels etc)and the people driving on the wrong side of the highway!

I'm not a nervous person...I've travelled through Africa and south America, seen a little of Asia, driven in Rome, driven in Paris around the Arch de Triomphe and we've travelled in Iran which has one of the worst statistics on traffic accidents but nothing compares to India. I think it helps not to focus too much on the road ahead! Closing your eyes works too!

Having said that we enjoyed the freedom of driving and even enjoyed a meal or two at the truck stops!It was great to drive through a small town and see a wedding procession...it seemed everyone was getting married when we visited!

If you're interestest in Kumblagarh and Ranakpur and some of the other sites in southern Rajasthan you might be able to find my trip report somewhere. I also have photos at eyebright.com/travels just click on India on the map and you can click on individual destinations (Jaiselmer, Ranakpur, Devi Garh etc) to get the pictures.

Hope this helps.

PS I just wanted to add that for the most part we were surprised at the quality of the roads themselves it was the drives that were the problem in some spots.

I do like the idea of the hired car with driver, but a concern that I have is how do you know that the driver is trustworthy with your luggage etc. when you are not present? Or for that matter just take off and leave you someplace? Once in Thailand there was a problem with missing items from luggage.

I guess that it is a matter of trust, not much different that leaving your luggage with an airline or a hotel.

I would appreciate any input on this subject as we are planning a trip to India in March ‘06

If you stop at Ranakhpur, I can recommend the Maharani Bagh Orchard Retreat - if you like a quiet and clean little cottage in an orchard! Excellent food. Only possible if you have a car/driver! Also take warm clothing for nights and mornings!

Pat

I've travelled thousands of miles in India with car and driver and never had a problem. We have always worked through an agency that would probably have to assume responsibility for theft etc, but -frankly- it has never happened to us. The drivers are usually very nice and loyal. Do not worry too much and simply take basic precautions about luggage, etc

Dear welltraveledbrit,

Thanks for the link to your pix. They are great! It is so wonderful to be able to see real pictures of real adventures. It is making the anticipation for my trip much more fun. I also appreciate your explanation of the drives. It seems that as frightening as they might be, they are part of the "ambiance" of the country.

And Pat, thanks for the tip on the Maharani Bagh Orchard Retreat in Ranakpur. I have it noted in my travel book.

Again to all, many thanks!

Patricia

Welltravelledbrit,

Those are spectacular pictures. Rajasthan looks surreal. Whenever I see such beautiful pictures, I resent that several factors - historical and current - have converged to make the India a not very pleasant place UNLESS you can buy your comfort, which most dollar and euro-armed visitors can. Given its vast civilisational, cultural and natural wealth, India ought to have been a heavenly experience for all, but alas...

As for the roads in India - they are terrible. Even worse is the attitude of the drivers (everyone wants to overtake). There are no rules, no road signs in most places, no nothing. It is a truly stochastic process. And the alarming rate at which new cars enter the streets everyday doesn't help either.

For the Western tourist, the thing to do is - rent a sturdy vehicle (like the Toyota Qualis), and ensure that you have a responsible, sane driver.

By the way, I didn't mean to alarm anyone with my previous posting. India is one place you ought to visit before you die. Your experience will fall on two extremeties, not in between - you will either love it intensely or loathe it intensely. Either way, you will be a changed person.