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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 05:33 AM
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dien bien phu or LP instead of sapa?

on rather short notice i've decided to fly to hanoi arriving 14 may and leaving 24 may. i'm travelling solo.

after reading this board, i think planning to visit two places sounds best. i like off the beaten track even if it entails (some) discomfort. therefore i'm pretty much scratching sapa off my itinerary b/c it sounds too touristy (though the countryside sounds beautiful). as an alternative, does anyone have an opinion on dien bien phu versus LP? is dien bien phu less travelled than sapa? easier to get to from hanoi than LP? i'm also interested in dien bien phu's historical significance. if i were to go there, is it worth thinking about hiring a guide to help get more off the beaten path? (not sure how much this would cost). or can i do that making my own way?

i'm also thinking about a train trip to hue as a 2nd destination if anyone has thoughts on that.

i know i don't have much time and would appreciate any advice. thanks!

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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 09:44 AM
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I did the Dien Bien Phu loop from Hanoi a couple of years ago. The highlights for me were the scenery which is spectacular,virtually around teh whole loop, the trekking around teh Sapa valley the and a stay for a couple of days in the Mai Chau valley 1/2 day north of Hanoi. Sapa town is very touristy but the surrounding countryside is beautiful. The train ride up from Hanoi is also good fun. Dien Bien Phu, whilst interestion historically is not of much interst as a town once you have seen the battle sites, museums etc. DBP is ceratinly a lot less travelled than Sapa, we saw virtually no other tourists outside of Sapa during our 7/8 days on the loop.
You could do you trip very easily on your own but a guide would be useful if you want to really get of the beaten track but make sure you agree exactly what you want to do in advance as we had real problems trying to get our guide to take us very far off the beaten track!
LP ? where do you mean exactly?
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 10:16 AM
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hi -- thanks for your thoughts. i mean dbp versus Luang Prabang in laos.

if you don't mind me asking, how did you travel while doing your loop - sounds like you had a guide?

if you have any thoughts on luang prabang i'd appreciate it -- the board seems evenly divided between being a gem or a minor let down. thank you.
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 10:32 AM
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I loved LP. It's a charming little town filled with lovely old wats and lots of monks and novices. It is now on the tourist map. So it's not a place to go if you are looking to see no other Westerners. It's a place where you have to slow down to experience it. You want time to soak up the atmosphere. There are plenty of wats "off the tourist trail" in town. Most visitors confine themselves to the most famous wats. I was there in 2002, and the place was just beginning to see the impact of increased numbers of visitors. Early in the morning, there was a line of brand-new Range Rovers on the main street. The rest of the day, it was very rare to see a car at all. We were there at the time of the Hmong New Year celebrations, and we went to a village and observed the celebrations. No one in the village spoke English, but we were welcomed to see the celebration. We saw no other westerners there. Since this village was pretty close to LP, I expect it now gets a good number of visitors.
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 01:37 PM
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thanks kathie,

i get the idea it's still worth going if you make the effort. what do you think of bus vs. flying? i hear the bus ride can be brutal but beautiful -- i'm more concerned about the safety than the discomfort. and if one flies, do you need to fly hanoi-vientien - lp?

thanks for your thoughts,
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Old Apr 29th, 2007, 02:03 PM
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Matt, I believe the connection is Hanoi - Vientienne - LP. But do check the VN air website. Note that you cannot buy Lao Air tickets online. There is a website that looks like you can do it, but it's a scam.

You have so little time, it doesn't make sense to go via bus. It'll each up too much of your precious time.
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 06:40 AM
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matt
we did hire a guide simply because of the time constraints and the flexibility of having our own vehicle. It would be perfectly feasible to diy on buses as they seemed to be very frequent and quite well maintained, or with a rented motor bike (foreigners can't hire cars in Vietnam). I have visited LP 3 times in the last 10 years and was there for the last time in earlier this month. I am about to post teh next installment of my trip report on my trip to Anantara, Laos and Bangkok which will detail my time in LP. I would say however that it has become steadily more commercialised over the year to teh extent where IMO there are simply too many tourists for the city to remain as it was. I still enjoyed my time there and it is still a favourite. If you can, get out sto some of the villages. that was our intention but the fires/smoke in the this time around. The far north of teh country around Muang Sing & Phonsali is the place to go if you want something akin to the DBP loop.
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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 08:02 AM
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crellston -- thanks so much for your reply. your last suggestion is exactly where is was headed in my thinking -- go to LP then head north for some outdoors adventure. do you know any companies or guides you would recommend to head up north with? i'd be interested in trekking or kayaking - anything that take me to more remote areas.

also, any place to stay in LP you'd recommend? i prefer smaller with local feel to larger and more western. if this info is in you trip report i'm happy to look there. thanks much for your thoughts. matt

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Old Apr 30th, 2007, 08:13 AM
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matt,

I will see if I can locate details of the the guides we used for Northern Laos and post them in this thread it was a local Lao company and they were very good. I will also try and find the itinerary which may provide some ideas. Details of the 3 Nagas and Aspara where we stayed in LP are in my trip report - not sure how to post a link but the title Anantara, Laos and Bangkok so you can do a search for that.
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Old May 1st, 2007, 06:11 AM
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hi crellston,

i've read your trip report and have made an inquiry at lao spirit. it may be the perfect combination (for me) of getting into the country and hiking/trekking and also getting a chance to relax and support what looks like an interesting venture.

question -- can i arrange for a visa to laos while in hanoi, or should i do it here in the states?

also, you mentioned you knew some adventure travel outfits for northern laos. i'm getting intrigued by the idea of exploring that further - and appreciate knowing your experience with Tiger Trails, as they are recommended in my guidebook. any other names you might think of would be helpful.

so my itinerary is now looking something like:

hanoi - may 14,15,16
luang prabang - may 17, 18,19,20

i fly out of hanoi on may 24. any thoughts on a good place to spend time between may 20 - 24? i wouldn't want to be in hanoi all that time, but should probably fly back there then visit someplace close to it, or further explore an area in the luang prabang region (my preference).

any advice would be appreciated. and thanks again. matt
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Old May 1st, 2007, 12:50 PM
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Hi Matt, We booked our trip to the far north with
Inter Lao Tourisme
7/73 Luang Prabang Rd
P.O.Box: 2912
Vietntiane
Lao P.D.R
(856) 21 240 731
(856) 21 214 232
http://www.interlao.com/
They were very good and I would use them again. We loved our time in the far north trekking through the villages around Phongsali, Luanag Namtha, Ban Bountai etc.
Tiger Trails do have a couple of offices in LP main st and you should be able to arrnge something when you get there. Our experience with them was not good but that was amostly down to the manager, Somphone an arrogant, unhelpful individual who couldn't care less about his clients. the guides however were great guys. Unfortunately, we did not get to Lao Spirit but it does sound good and gets some good reviews on Tripadvisor.com. Don't pay them any money before you go as it will be difficult to get any back if things don't work out. There are several other similar operations in the main st. so you shouldn't have any probs sorting out a village homestay & trekking etc. around LP. Looking at the Thai air quality websites the smoke is a lot better now.

As for the extra time;
Halong Bay is an option as is the Mai Chau Valley 1/2 day north of Hanoi - really great scenery, or extend your time in Laos & go to the far north.
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