Craig and Jeane Sri Lanka Trip Report 2008
Mar 4th, 2008, 02:25 AM
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We woke up early on our first full day at Kandalama. The breakfast buffet starts at 6:30 AM and we were there when it opened. I had already had my morning coffee in the room. Our room had an instant coffee maker but I used my portable electric coffee brewer which I always bring on trips. It requires a little extra effort with clean-up etc. but it’s worth it for me. We did not really appreciate Kandalama’s inflexibility on meal times – the dinner buffet starts at 7:30 PM and one night it did not start until 7:45 due to a staff meeting. We are early-to-bed, early-to-rise people and are not used to being on a European meal schedule. That being said, we ran into a Scottish couple with their 4-year-old daughter who were just as displeased with the lateness of the meals. Having arrived directly from their flight, all they wanted to do was feed their daughter and get some sleep. Almost everyone that stays at Kandalama is on a half-board plan so the option to eat when you want does not exist. This is one of the few complaints I have about Kandalama. As for the Scottish couple it was fun getting daily updates from their 4-year-old on monkey sightings – she was a very cute kid.
The early breakfast gave us time to wander the grounds and take some photos before heading out. Jeane had an encounter with one of the monkeys that always seemed to be hovering by our deck. She was sitting outside cleaning the lenses for her camera when suddenly the monkey swooped in and swiped her bottle of lens cleaner. She coaxed the monkey with a cookie to drop it but it ended up on the deck below us. I asked one of the cleaning crew to fetch it – no problem as the room below us was vacant. Needless to say, once the novelty wears off, the monkeys can be a bit of a pain. The hotel advises you to keep your sliding deck door closed at all times so the monkeys can’t get into your room and swipe things.
Rammuni met us promptly at 9 AM and we headed on to Sigiriya, a half hour away. The roads all over Sri Lanka are usually paved but often just one lane so the going is slow. We stopped by the lake on the side opposite the hotel and were able to take some stunning photos of the morning sun reflecting off the water. At Sigiriya, Rammuni suggested we buy the Cultural Triangle pass that includes admission to Polonnaruwa where we would visit the next day. This is where my frustration with currency and money began. At Sigiriya they wanted rupees and would not accept US dollars. I had not yet been to an ATM since I had some rupees already from BSL at the airport and from Kathie to buy some tea at Tea Trails. I was also under the impression that they would take US dollars at these sites. As it turned out, at Polonnaruwa they do accept US dollars for the pass. Anyway, Rammuni happily offered to loan me the rupees to cover the cost of both the tickets and the tip for the guide so we were set for the time being.
I should mention that I had with me a credit card, an ATM card, travelers checks (to pay the balance of a lodging deposit – more on this later) and US currency to pay Rammuni for his services (he had insisted on currency, not travelers checks). So it wasn’t like I was unprepared. Later in the day I did hit an ATM. It seemed also like we were constantly scrounging for small change for tips – 100 rupee notes for porters and baggage handlers, 50 rupee notes to give people when we took their photos and 10 or 20 rupee notes for watching shoes at temples and for toilets. Enough said.
Sigiriya was our favorite place in the cultural triangle. There are 1200 steps to climb but it is well worth it for the history, the frescos, the carvings and the views. Rammuni had arranged for an excellent guide – we gave him 1000 rupees at the end. We found out later from Rammuni that this was not really enough - for future services of this type, we were much more generous.
The Sigiriya climb is not for everyone. It can be quite strenuous for those that are not in shape. Although much of it is shaded, it can still get quite hot. We saw several people struggling, including a Japanese man who was so elated that he had reached the top that he missed a step while going down, falling 6 feet into a pit and fortunately for him having his wind knocked out.
The early breakfast gave us time to wander the grounds and take some photos before heading out. Jeane had an encounter with one of the monkeys that always seemed to be hovering by our deck. She was sitting outside cleaning the lenses for her camera when suddenly the monkey swooped in and swiped her bottle of lens cleaner. She coaxed the monkey with a cookie to drop it but it ended up on the deck below us. I asked one of the cleaning crew to fetch it – no problem as the room below us was vacant. Needless to say, once the novelty wears off, the monkeys can be a bit of a pain. The hotel advises you to keep your sliding deck door closed at all times so the monkeys can’t get into your room and swipe things.
Rammuni met us promptly at 9 AM and we headed on to Sigiriya, a half hour away. The roads all over Sri Lanka are usually paved but often just one lane so the going is slow. We stopped by the lake on the side opposite the hotel and were able to take some stunning photos of the morning sun reflecting off the water. At Sigiriya, Rammuni suggested we buy the Cultural Triangle pass that includes admission to Polonnaruwa where we would visit the next day. This is where my frustration with currency and money began. At Sigiriya they wanted rupees and would not accept US dollars. I had not yet been to an ATM since I had some rupees already from BSL at the airport and from Kathie to buy some tea at Tea Trails. I was also under the impression that they would take US dollars at these sites. As it turned out, at Polonnaruwa they do accept US dollars for the pass. Anyway, Rammuni happily offered to loan me the rupees to cover the cost of both the tickets and the tip for the guide so we were set for the time being.
I should mention that I had with me a credit card, an ATM card, travelers checks (to pay the balance of a lodging deposit – more on this later) and US currency to pay Rammuni for his services (he had insisted on currency, not travelers checks). So it wasn’t like I was unprepared. Later in the day I did hit an ATM. It seemed also like we were constantly scrounging for small change for tips – 100 rupee notes for porters and baggage handlers, 50 rupee notes to give people when we took their photos and 10 or 20 rupee notes for watching shoes at temples and for toilets. Enough said.
Sigiriya was our favorite place in the cultural triangle. There are 1200 steps to climb but it is well worth it for the history, the frescos, the carvings and the views. Rammuni had arranged for an excellent guide – we gave him 1000 rupees at the end. We found out later from Rammuni that this was not really enough - for future services of this type, we were much more generous.
The Sigiriya climb is not for everyone. It can be quite strenuous for those that are not in shape. Although much of it is shaded, it can still get quite hot. We saw several people struggling, including a Japanese man who was so elated that he had reached the top that he missed a step while going down, falling 6 feet into a pit and fortunately for him having his wind knocked out.
Mar 4th, 2008, 02:22 PM
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Correction - the last sentence of my previous post should read:
We saw several people struggling, including a Japanese man who was so elated that he had reached the top that he missed a step while going down, falling 6 feet into a pit and fortunately for him ONLY having his wind knocked out.
We saw several people struggling, including a Japanese man who was so elated that he had reached the top that he missed a step while going down, falling 6 feet into a pit and fortunately for him ONLY having his wind knocked out.
Mar 4th, 2008, 02:23 PM
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On the way out of Sigiriya is the Sigiriya Handicraft Village. It had been mentioned in one of the guide books and I asked Rammuni to stop there. The village had a small array of shops featuring wood carvings, paintings and other crafts. The quality was not quite to our standard so we did not buy anything.
We discussed the schedule for the remainder of day and decided to break so Rammuni and the driver could have lunch. Afterwards we would head directly to the Dambulla Caves. Jeane and I don’t normally break for lunch because we tend to snack all day. In the tourist areas there are restaurants with pleasant outdoor settings that cater to tourists and their drivers. At this one we took advantage of the western-style toilets and enjoyed a cool fruit drink as we waited.
I wasn’t sure if it was a good idea to visit the caves at mid-day but Rammuni convinced me that it would not only be ok but it would be more efficient than returning to the hotel and going out later. He was right. The $10 admission to the caves could be paid in either US dollars or rupees. Having now hit the ATM, I chose the local currency.
The Dambulla caves were a cake walk compared to Sigiriya. To get to the entrance to the caves we had to climb a couple of hundred steps, mostly in the sun. There were several monkeys along the way. They seemed pretty innocuous and we did not have any problems with them. After we reached the top, seeing the five caves was easy. We removed our shoes at the entrance. Rammuni arranged to have a guide show us around for a tour that took less than an hour. The area outside the caves was very hot so we had to step quickly in our bare feet. Inside the caves it was fine. This was the third Buddhist cave temple we have visited – we had previously been to Pak Ou Caves near Luang Prabang, Laos and the Pindaya Caves on the way to Inle Lake in Myanmar. Like the previous two, the Dambulla caves were filled with Buddha images. However I found these caves much more interesting. It helped that we had a very good guide who could explain the significance of many of the statues. We tipped him well after the tour.
Dambulla was the site a few weeks ago of a bombing where Tamil terrorists blew up a bus full of Sri Lankan Buddhist pilgrims on their way from Kandy to Anuradhapura. I asked Rammuni where in Dambulla it had occurred but he was not quite sure. We discussed the current situation in Sri Lanka several times during our tour. Rammuni always emphasized two things: that the Tamils say they hold absolutely no grudges against foreign tourists and that the terrorists are only a small minority of the Tamil people.
We returned to the hotel around 3 PM and had the remainder of the afternoon to relax on our own. Jeane and I spent some time at the business center where we could access the internet. We were told there was a nominal fee to use a computer (300 rupees per ½ hour) but we were never charged. There is Wi-Fi at the Kandalama but only one of the computers was connected to it. It had kind of a tricky keyboard but was relatively fast. The others had slow dial-up connections. Next to the business center there were a couple of shops selling jewelry and other items – nothing that caught Jeane’s eye though.
I spent the rest of the afternoon reading – I was working my way through Leonard Woolf’s autobiographical book “Growing”, an account of his time as a civil servant in British Ceylon in the early 20th century. Leonard was the husband of Virginia Woolf, although he was single during his time in SL. An interesting insight into the Colonial period…
We discussed the schedule for the remainder of day and decided to break so Rammuni and the driver could have lunch. Afterwards we would head directly to the Dambulla Caves. Jeane and I don’t normally break for lunch because we tend to snack all day. In the tourist areas there are restaurants with pleasant outdoor settings that cater to tourists and their drivers. At this one we took advantage of the western-style toilets and enjoyed a cool fruit drink as we waited.
I wasn’t sure if it was a good idea to visit the caves at mid-day but Rammuni convinced me that it would not only be ok but it would be more efficient than returning to the hotel and going out later. He was right. The $10 admission to the caves could be paid in either US dollars or rupees. Having now hit the ATM, I chose the local currency.
The Dambulla caves were a cake walk compared to Sigiriya. To get to the entrance to the caves we had to climb a couple of hundred steps, mostly in the sun. There were several monkeys along the way. They seemed pretty innocuous and we did not have any problems with them. After we reached the top, seeing the five caves was easy. We removed our shoes at the entrance. Rammuni arranged to have a guide show us around for a tour that took less than an hour. The area outside the caves was very hot so we had to step quickly in our bare feet. Inside the caves it was fine. This was the third Buddhist cave temple we have visited – we had previously been to Pak Ou Caves near Luang Prabang, Laos and the Pindaya Caves on the way to Inle Lake in Myanmar. Like the previous two, the Dambulla caves were filled with Buddha images. However I found these caves much more interesting. It helped that we had a very good guide who could explain the significance of many of the statues. We tipped him well after the tour.
Dambulla was the site a few weeks ago of a bombing where Tamil terrorists blew up a bus full of Sri Lankan Buddhist pilgrims on their way from Kandy to Anuradhapura. I asked Rammuni where in Dambulla it had occurred but he was not quite sure. We discussed the current situation in Sri Lanka several times during our tour. Rammuni always emphasized two things: that the Tamils say they hold absolutely no grudges against foreign tourists and that the terrorists are only a small minority of the Tamil people.
We returned to the hotel around 3 PM and had the remainder of the afternoon to relax on our own. Jeane and I spent some time at the business center where we could access the internet. We were told there was a nominal fee to use a computer (300 rupees per ½ hour) but we were never charged. There is Wi-Fi at the Kandalama but only one of the computers was connected to it. It had kind of a tricky keyboard but was relatively fast. The others had slow dial-up connections. Next to the business center there were a couple of shops selling jewelry and other items – nothing that caught Jeane’s eye though.
I spent the rest of the afternoon reading – I was working my way through Leonard Woolf’s autobiographical book “Growing”, an account of his time as a civil servant in British Ceylon in the early 20th century. Leonard was the husband of Virginia Woolf, although he was single during his time in SL. An interesting insight into the Colonial period…
Mar 4th, 2008, 06:03 PM
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The next day was a long one – departure at 8 AM for the two hour drive to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa and then on to Minneriya National Park for a late afternoon safari. The ruins of Polonnaruwa are situated in a park-like setting over several square miles. We met our tour guide at the park entrance and began our tour at the first class museum. In the museum there were excellent displays on how the various structures we were to see would have looked like during Polonnaruwa’s heyday about 1000 years ago. From there we toured the ruins by van and by foot for about 2-1/2 hours. Our guide was excellent – his English was the best of any we had and we tipped him very well. I think it is important to understand that only “official” guides can conduct tours at the major sites and that these guides receive no other compensation besides what tourists choose to give them.
We stopped nearby for lunch prior to heading to Minneriya and arrived there after a one-hour drive at about 3 PM. It was somewhat of a process arranging our guide and admission to the park along with our private safari vehicle and driver. However, it all came about fairly quickly and we were on our way in our open Jeep. Rammuni sat up front with the driver while Jeane and I stood in back with the guide.
The main road through the park runs by the appropriately-named Minneriya Lake. We had fairly low expectations as this was not high season for game-viewing. So we were quite surprised when almost immediately we came upon a small herd of elephants, including a 2-week old baby. They conveniently stood in the sun not far from our vehicle, providing for great photos – that is, until the elephants decided that we were going to be a threat to the baby. Then all hell broke loose and the elephants started stomping and making trumpeting noises. They came out to the road and seemed ready to charge. At that point our driver wisely decided that it was appropriate to make a hasty retreat down the road, leaving the elephants behind.
That experience was hard to top. We saw lots of other wildlife in the park including purple-faced leaf monkeys, giant squirrels, a jack rabbit, a fox, sambar deer, a wild pig, mongooses, peacocks and several species of large birds. The safari lasted about 2-1/2 hours. Just before we returned to the park entrance, we came upon another herd of 7 or 8 elephants and one last photo opportunity. The total cost of the safari was about $50 in local currency, I think. We tipped the guide and driver 500 rupees each. We arrived back at the hotel a little before 7 PM. This was one night that we did not mind having a late dinner.
The next morning we were up early as usual. We had arranged with Rammuni to depart for Kandy, our next destination at 8:30 AM. Before we left I wanted to get a photo of the outside of the hotel and the jungle growth covering it to help it blend into the surroundings. I imagine you either love or hate Jeffrey Bawa’s design of both the interior and exterior of Kandalama – it’s rather stark, but unique and functional none-the-less. Anyway it took quite an effort to find the perfect vantage point for the photo. I finally found a spot on the 7th floor outside one of the conference rooms which worked well.
The drive to Kandy takes about 2 hours. We told Rammuni that we had no interest in the spice gardens but we were open to high quality shopping. Rammuni suggested we stop about halfway at a large wood-working shop that I forget the name of. There was a short tour that included a description of the types of woods used and the different types of finishes available. It was a first class operation with very high quality goods. They claimed to only hire artisans that were disadvantaged in some way – mentally, physically or otherwise. Items for sale included colorful Kandyan masks, all types of furniture, doors with carved panels and other assorted wood handicrafts. We wound up buying a beautiful hand-painted teakwood elephant for about 7500 rupees, a nice souvenir to add to our collection.
We stopped nearby for lunch prior to heading to Minneriya and arrived there after a one-hour drive at about 3 PM. It was somewhat of a process arranging our guide and admission to the park along with our private safari vehicle and driver. However, it all came about fairly quickly and we were on our way in our open Jeep. Rammuni sat up front with the driver while Jeane and I stood in back with the guide.
The main road through the park runs by the appropriately-named Minneriya Lake. We had fairly low expectations as this was not high season for game-viewing. So we were quite surprised when almost immediately we came upon a small herd of elephants, including a 2-week old baby. They conveniently stood in the sun not far from our vehicle, providing for great photos – that is, until the elephants decided that we were going to be a threat to the baby. Then all hell broke loose and the elephants started stomping and making trumpeting noises. They came out to the road and seemed ready to charge. At that point our driver wisely decided that it was appropriate to make a hasty retreat down the road, leaving the elephants behind.
That experience was hard to top. We saw lots of other wildlife in the park including purple-faced leaf monkeys, giant squirrels, a jack rabbit, a fox, sambar deer, a wild pig, mongooses, peacocks and several species of large birds. The safari lasted about 2-1/2 hours. Just before we returned to the park entrance, we came upon another herd of 7 or 8 elephants and one last photo opportunity. The total cost of the safari was about $50 in local currency, I think. We tipped the guide and driver 500 rupees each. We arrived back at the hotel a little before 7 PM. This was one night that we did not mind having a late dinner.
The next morning we were up early as usual. We had arranged with Rammuni to depart for Kandy, our next destination at 8:30 AM. Before we left I wanted to get a photo of the outside of the hotel and the jungle growth covering it to help it blend into the surroundings. I imagine you either love or hate Jeffrey Bawa’s design of both the interior and exterior of Kandalama – it’s rather stark, but unique and functional none-the-less. Anyway it took quite an effort to find the perfect vantage point for the photo. I finally found a spot on the 7th floor outside one of the conference rooms which worked well.
The drive to Kandy takes about 2 hours. We told Rammuni that we had no interest in the spice gardens but we were open to high quality shopping. Rammuni suggested we stop about halfway at a large wood-working shop that I forget the name of. There was a short tour that included a description of the types of woods used and the different types of finishes available. It was a first class operation with very high quality goods. They claimed to only hire artisans that were disadvantaged in some way – mentally, physically or otherwise. Items for sale included colorful Kandyan masks, all types of furniture, doors with carved panels and other assorted wood handicrafts. We wound up buying a beautiful hand-painted teakwood elephant for about 7500 rupees, a nice souvenir to add to our collection.
Mar 4th, 2008, 07:50 PM
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Craig, Really savoring your report. Sounds like you and Jeanne had a great trip with lots of variety and interesting sights, wonderful shopping and excellent guides. Looking forward to more & seeing Jeanne's treasures from SJ at the next GTG.
Mar 5th, 2008, 01:54 AM
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We continued on our journey toward Kandy. Shortly we came to a roadside stand. Rammuni got out of the van and we watched while a woman used a long knife to remove the tops of four coconuts. Rammuni handed one to each of us with a straw, keeping one for his self. The coconuts were full of liquid, what the Sri Lankans call “king coconut”. I had read that it has great hydrating qualities and Rammuni informed us that it is used in Sri Lanka as an intravenous solution in hospitals. I drank mine right down so I could get rid of the coconut – I could really feel the hydrating effects as the liquid was absorbed into my body. Jeane only sipped on hers and regretted it later when her coconut would spill every time our vehicle hit a bump.
We arrived in Kandy and stopped so that Rammuni and our driver could have lunch. They left us at a place up on a hill overlooking the lake with the city on the opposite side. It was a three-story building with a restaurant on the top floor and a jewelry and clothing shop on the bottom two floors. We checked out the shop then went up to the restaurant for some drinks. The view from the restaurant was quite nice although the day was turning cloudy. I tried to order a beer but the server informed me that it was a Poya (full moon) day so no alcohol could be sold. I ordered a Sprite instead and Jeane had a fruit juice. It wasn’t long before Rammuni showed up and took us to our next stop, a place that made and sold batik products. Jeane saw some things that she liked but didn’t care for the feel of the material so we moved on. By this time it had started to rain. Rammuni wanted us to check out one more shop – another woodworking place nearby that turned out to have more of the same but lesser quality. Now it was pouring. I decided that we were done shopping and asked Rammuni to take us to the Kandy House, our hotel so we could check in.
We told Rammuni that we would not take a long time to settle in so that we would have time to do Temple of the Tooth and see the Kandyan dancing which started at 5:30 PM. We also wanted to check out the Kandyan Art Association and Cultural Center which was supposed to be nearby. We received a quick tour of the hotel from the manager and made a 7:30 reservation at the restaurant.
I should mention at this point that an overnight in Kandy was not part of our original itinerary. We had scheduled an overnight safari for two nights at Yala National Park which was then changed to Uda Walawe and then subsequently cancelled due to security concerns. This all happened at the last minute so we had to scramble to make changes. In retrospect, we really benefited from the extra time in Kandy. If we had just passed through Kandy and headed on to Tea Trails we would have felt very rushed.
So we headed to Temple of the Tooth. Security has been tight there since a bombing there several years ago. The plan was to visit the Temple and then do the Kandyan dancing which was relatively close by. I asked Rammuni about the Kandyan Art Association and Cultural Center after we arrived. I don’t know what he was thinking but after going through the vehicle security check we turned around, exited the area and headed out. When I saw all the tour buses lined up at the intended destination, I knew he had it wrong and told him to head back. We did and as we were walking to the Temple of the Tooth, there it was. Noting that it closed at 5 PM and that it was 3:30 or so, I suggested we go in then. Apparently there are artisans that you can see doing their thing but we didn’t have time for that. The shop was two rooms full of pretty high quality stuff. I purchased a couple of very nice looking tea tins embossed with elephants for my assistants back home. Jeane picked up a coconut wood soap dish that she will use in her Asian themed office when it opens.
On to Temple of the Tooth…we had a great guide and in spite of it being a Poya Day, it was not crowded when we were there. We were able to see where the tooth was relatively quickly. Of course you can not actually see the tooth but then it is more legend than reality anyway. I hope that saying this does not jeopardize my status in the next life. There were a couple of layers of security with screening etc. for men and women but no big deal.
Back at the Kandy House, we had a pleasant dinner in the restaurant outside overlooking the gardens at the rear of the hotel. Menu choices were limited and the price was a bit high but we enjoyed our food.
There is no a/c at the Kandy House and our room was a bit warm even with the windows open and the fan on. We were awoken by Buddhist chanting, presumably at a nearby temple at 5 AM. It went on for about 45 minutes so we were unable to get back to sleep. We enjoyed a nice breakfast on our private veranda, walked the grounds and took some photos then prepared to head out to the botanical gardens and on to Tea Trails.
We arrived in Kandy and stopped so that Rammuni and our driver could have lunch. They left us at a place up on a hill overlooking the lake with the city on the opposite side. It was a three-story building with a restaurant on the top floor and a jewelry and clothing shop on the bottom two floors. We checked out the shop then went up to the restaurant for some drinks. The view from the restaurant was quite nice although the day was turning cloudy. I tried to order a beer but the server informed me that it was a Poya (full moon) day so no alcohol could be sold. I ordered a Sprite instead and Jeane had a fruit juice. It wasn’t long before Rammuni showed up and took us to our next stop, a place that made and sold batik products. Jeane saw some things that she liked but didn’t care for the feel of the material so we moved on. By this time it had started to rain. Rammuni wanted us to check out one more shop – another woodworking place nearby that turned out to have more of the same but lesser quality. Now it was pouring. I decided that we were done shopping and asked Rammuni to take us to the Kandy House, our hotel so we could check in.
We told Rammuni that we would not take a long time to settle in so that we would have time to do Temple of the Tooth and see the Kandyan dancing which started at 5:30 PM. We also wanted to check out the Kandyan Art Association and Cultural Center which was supposed to be nearby. We received a quick tour of the hotel from the manager and made a 7:30 reservation at the restaurant.
I should mention at this point that an overnight in Kandy was not part of our original itinerary. We had scheduled an overnight safari for two nights at Yala National Park which was then changed to Uda Walawe and then subsequently cancelled due to security concerns. This all happened at the last minute so we had to scramble to make changes. In retrospect, we really benefited from the extra time in Kandy. If we had just passed through Kandy and headed on to Tea Trails we would have felt very rushed.
So we headed to Temple of the Tooth. Security has been tight there since a bombing there several years ago. The plan was to visit the Temple and then do the Kandyan dancing which was relatively close by. I asked Rammuni about the Kandyan Art Association and Cultural Center after we arrived. I don’t know what he was thinking but after going through the vehicle security check we turned around, exited the area and headed out. When I saw all the tour buses lined up at the intended destination, I knew he had it wrong and told him to head back. We did and as we were walking to the Temple of the Tooth, there it was. Noting that it closed at 5 PM and that it was 3:30 or so, I suggested we go in then. Apparently there are artisans that you can see doing their thing but we didn’t have time for that. The shop was two rooms full of pretty high quality stuff. I purchased a couple of very nice looking tea tins embossed with elephants for my assistants back home. Jeane picked up a coconut wood soap dish that she will use in her Asian themed office when it opens.
On to Temple of the Tooth…we had a great guide and in spite of it being a Poya Day, it was not crowded when we were there. We were able to see where the tooth was relatively quickly. Of course you can not actually see the tooth but then it is more legend than reality anyway. I hope that saying this does not jeopardize my status in the next life. There were a couple of layers of security with screening etc. for men and women but no big deal.
Back at the Kandy House, we had a pleasant dinner in the restaurant outside overlooking the gardens at the rear of the hotel. Menu choices were limited and the price was a bit high but we enjoyed our food.
There is no a/c at the Kandy House and our room was a bit warm even with the windows open and the fan on. We were awoken by Buddhist chanting, presumably at a nearby temple at 5 AM. It went on for about 45 minutes so we were unable to get back to sleep. We enjoyed a nice breakfast on our private veranda, walked the grounds and took some photos then prepared to head out to the botanical gardens and on to Tea Trails.
Mar 5th, 2008, 12:23 PM
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I truly don't know the exact answer to that one Femi. The guide did not act pleased when I gave him the 1000 rupee note so later I asked Rammuni what was appropriate. He replied that 1000-2000 rupees would be the right amount. I took it that he said 1000 at the low end to let me to save face.
If the guide gets no compensation for his services other than what I give him, then its not really a tip, it's payment for services. If I err on the high side, so what - it's little to me and a lot to him.
For what its worth, I hope this helps.
If the guide gets no compensation for his services other than what I give him, then its not really a tip, it's payment for services. If I err on the high side, so what - it's little to me and a lot to him.
For what its worth, I hope this helps.
Mar 5th, 2008, 12:31 PM
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Bob - as patron saint of the Asia board you are only allowed to visit Asian destinations. No Russia, no South Africa, no South America. Also, no hijacking of my thread for a marital spat...
Mar 5th, 2008, 12:34 PM
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Kathie, we really weren't in the sun that much at the caves, just on the steps going up. However, as you will see in a post forthcoming, we got clobbered hiking at Tea Trails one time at mid-day.
Mar 5th, 2008, 12:35 PM
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To backtrack a bit – we stayed in the Cornelian Room at the Kandy House which is classified as a Super Deluxe Gallery (Upper Floor) room. It is mid-range in price amongst the nine rooms in the hotel.
Also in my previous post it seems I did not mention the Kandyan dance performance, which was well worth seeing. Kandyan dancing is performed at 3 different venues around Kandy and the one we saw at the Art Association and Cultural Center is said to be the best. The venue itself is kind of dumpy but once the show starts that doesn’t matter. The cost was 300 rupees per person. There are refreshments for sale and (very) basic toilet facilities. Having arrived 20 minutes prior to the 5:30 PM performance, we were able to snag seats in the 3rd row center which were perfect for taking photos. There are 10 different dances including a fire walking demonstration where patrons are permitted to leave their seats so they can watch close up. Toward the end of the show everyone stands when they sing the Sri Lankan national anthem. It was a very colorful show and we got some good pix.
The following day Rammuni and the driver were ready for us promptly at 8:15 AM. Rammuni had met briefly with the hotel manager. Kandy House was a property he was not familiar with and he wanted to be able to offer it to his clients in the future. From the hotel it was a 45 minute drive to the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. There’s an ATM right outside and I took advantage of it. I withdrew 25,000 rupees dispensed in 1000 rupee notes – I now had a very thick wallet but still not much small change for tips… The gardens are world class and not to be missed. Admission is 600 rupees per person. We spent two hours there strolling the grounds, admiring the spectacular trees and flowers and taking a lot of photos.
We had agreed to meet Rammuni at 11 AM so he and the driver were waiting for us. He asked if we wanted to visit any more shops on the way to Tea Trails and I told him that we would take a pass. We had expected the shopping in Sri Lanka to be disappointing and it was – I didn’t see a need to waste any more time at it until we got to Galle.
The drive to Tea Trails took about three hours. As we went further up into hill country, the roads became narrower and windier. There was tea growing everywhere – beautiful bright green plants. When we finally arrived at Tea Trails we were greeted by our butler and one of his staff. They helped us with our things and we checked in to our master suite at the Norwood Bungalow. Originally we were going to stay in the smallish Jeffrey Deluxe Room at Norwood but when our safari was cancelled and our stay was extended from three nights to four, we upgraded to the suite. Since it was about 2 PM, they asked us if we would like to have lunch – we told them that yes, we would. The chef came by and discussed the menu with us – we told him that we would prefer vegetarian lunches however meat for dinner would be no problem. That was fine with the chef and it worked out great. He would consult with us on every lunch and dinner during our stay.
I had really been enjoying Sri Lankan food for the past few days. At Tea Trails however, we would only have Sri Lankan food on one night. The cuisine was wonderful however – consistently delicious and well-presented. Portions were not too large. All of the meals were served on the patio outside of the bungalow where we could enjoy great views of the tea plantations below and the mountain tops in the distance. As all alcoholic beverages served at meals were included, it was hard to turn down a glass or two of white wine at lunch. Cocktails were also available during the social hour before dinner.
Also in my previous post it seems I did not mention the Kandyan dance performance, which was well worth seeing. Kandyan dancing is performed at 3 different venues around Kandy and the one we saw at the Art Association and Cultural Center is said to be the best. The venue itself is kind of dumpy but once the show starts that doesn’t matter. The cost was 300 rupees per person. There are refreshments for sale and (very) basic toilet facilities. Having arrived 20 minutes prior to the 5:30 PM performance, we were able to snag seats in the 3rd row center which were perfect for taking photos. There are 10 different dances including a fire walking demonstration where patrons are permitted to leave their seats so they can watch close up. Toward the end of the show everyone stands when they sing the Sri Lankan national anthem. It was a very colorful show and we got some good pix.
The following day Rammuni and the driver were ready for us promptly at 8:15 AM. Rammuni had met briefly with the hotel manager. Kandy House was a property he was not familiar with and he wanted to be able to offer it to his clients in the future. From the hotel it was a 45 minute drive to the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. There’s an ATM right outside and I took advantage of it. I withdrew 25,000 rupees dispensed in 1000 rupee notes – I now had a very thick wallet but still not much small change for tips… The gardens are world class and not to be missed. Admission is 600 rupees per person. We spent two hours there strolling the grounds, admiring the spectacular trees and flowers and taking a lot of photos.
We had agreed to meet Rammuni at 11 AM so he and the driver were waiting for us. He asked if we wanted to visit any more shops on the way to Tea Trails and I told him that we would take a pass. We had expected the shopping in Sri Lanka to be disappointing and it was – I didn’t see a need to waste any more time at it until we got to Galle.
The drive to Tea Trails took about three hours. As we went further up into hill country, the roads became narrower and windier. There was tea growing everywhere – beautiful bright green plants. When we finally arrived at Tea Trails we were greeted by our butler and one of his staff. They helped us with our things and we checked in to our master suite at the Norwood Bungalow. Originally we were going to stay in the smallish Jeffrey Deluxe Room at Norwood but when our safari was cancelled and our stay was extended from three nights to four, we upgraded to the suite. Since it was about 2 PM, they asked us if we would like to have lunch – we told them that yes, we would. The chef came by and discussed the menu with us – we told him that we would prefer vegetarian lunches however meat for dinner would be no problem. That was fine with the chef and it worked out great. He would consult with us on every lunch and dinner during our stay.
I had really been enjoying Sri Lankan food for the past few days. At Tea Trails however, we would only have Sri Lankan food on one night. The cuisine was wonderful however – consistently delicious and well-presented. Portions were not too large. All of the meals were served on the patio outside of the bungalow where we could enjoy great views of the tea plantations below and the mountain tops in the distance. As all alcoholic beverages served at meals were included, it was hard to turn down a glass or two of white wine at lunch. Cocktails were also available during the social hour before dinner.
Mar 5th, 2008, 01:36 PM
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At the conclusion of lunch, our server asked us what time we would like to have high tea. We told him 5 PM although it seemed silly to have tea (and snacks) so soon after lunch. We returned to our room to unpack and settle in a bit before exploring the grounds. While we were unpacking the activities director came by and discussed the various things we could do while at Tea Trails. We were most interested in the hikes and the tea factory tour so we spent some time discussing those. We were disappointed that we could not do the train ride from Hatton to Nanu Oya since it gets booked up weeks in advance.
Our suite, by the way was huge, distinctly Colonial in design with a four-poster bed, large oriental rugs, lots of windows and plenty of light. Although our Bungalow was originally built in 1890 and rebuilt in 1940, everything about it was new since Tea Trails only opened 3 years ago. The large bath had double vessel-style sinks and lots of counter space. Jeane loved the heated towel rack. The shower/bath combo can only be described as awkward, although the rain shower spigot provided lots of hot water. The suite had its own private garden with comfortable lounge chairs for sitting outside.
Norwood is the largest of the bungalows in acreage. Because of that and its central location to the other three bungalows, the bakery and the laundry facilities are located here. We took our time walking around, checking out the fabulous pool and large vegetable garden. After we were done walking, it was time for tea, which was served to us in the dining room. The tea was fine and we nibbled on the little pastries and sandwiches even though we weren’t at all hungry. We decided that going forward we didn’t need to do this any more and would have our tea with our meals. We scheduled dinner with our server for 7:30 PM. They told us we could have our meals any time we wanted but that dinner was normally at 8 with cocktail hour at 7.
After tea, I wanted to read for a while. Jeane didn’t want to sit around so she asked our butler about going on one of the short self-guided hikes that the activities director showed us. He was reluctant at first due to concern for her safety going alone but Jeane was persistent – she just wanted to walk around and take some photos before it got dark. Our butler gave her a map and off she went, returning an hour or so later. We went for cocktails that night at 7 and chatted briefly with a British couple before we sat down to dinner.
The next morning Jeane wanted to repeat her hike and catch the sunrise – waking up at 5:30 AM. I told her she was on her own. Before we turned in, I gave our butler a big load of laundry and arranged for coffee in the room at 6 AM. We appreciated the “free” laundry service and I appreciated not having to brew my own coffee. We had laundry done every day.
We had scheduled the tour at the nearby Norwood Tea Factory at 9 AM. Jeane had to hustle after she returned from shooting the sunrise so that we would not have to rush through breakfast to be ready for our tour. Tea Trails had arranged for the British couple that we met the previous night and their two teenagers to join us in the Tea Trails van for the drive down to the factory. We were ready to go at 9 but much to our dismay the British family had just started to eat their breakfast. I made a bit of a scene with our butler and after considering alternatives for us and for the family he decided to ask them to GET MOVING. By 9:15 we were on our way. The parents apologized to us for the delay and blamed the Tea Trails staff for telling them they only needed ½ hour to eat. I suspect however that the real problem lay with the two kids who were unable to get out of bed that morning.
The tea factory tour was excellent – everything you ever wanted to know about growing, manufacturing and drinking tea. The tour was led by one of Tea Trails’ assistant managers. He had a great sense of humor and boundless enthusiasm. We would run into him later on at the Summerville Bungalow. After two hours we were returned to Norwood along with a couple from Tientsen Bungalow. They were staying for lunch.
Jeane and I decided to take the long (1½ hour) self-guided walk before lunch. The trails are all well marked with signs and arrows – sometimes on paved roads but usually on dirt or gravel tracks. This hike started out on the main road from our bungalow – we did not appreciate having to move aside for the tuk-tuks and vans that seemed to pass by at regular intervals as we trudged up the hill. Eventually we got off the main road and could enjoy the wonderful scenery (tea fields everywhere) and views of the mountains in the distance. At one point we could see Adam’s Peak where Sri Lankans make their pilgrimage up the mountain in the middle of the night so that they can see the sun rise when they reach the summit. While it was not terribly hot for a mid-day hike, we neglected to put on sunscreen. Fortunately we wore hats but our arms and the back of our necks got burnt pretty badly. From then on we made sure to apply sunscreen before going out.
We enjoyed another delicious lunch and both decided to relax for the remainder of the day. I found a book in the library, Michael Crichton’s “Next” and began to work through it. We had another nice dinner that night but were disappointed that no one else showed up at cocktail hour.
We thought it might be nice to try a hike at one of the other bungalows so we asked our butler to contact Rammuni so that our driver could take us to Castlereigh the next day. We would also have lunch there after our hike. Rammuni and the driver arrived promptly at 9 after our 7:30 AM breakfast. They were in good spirits, apparently enjoying their accommodations and their time off. The drive to Castlereigh took almost an hour as we stopped to take photos of a cricket match along the way. As Kathie said in her trip report, the Castlereigh Bungalow is located in a stunning setting right by the Castlereigh reservoir. This is in contrast to Norwood which is so high above the reservoir that we could hardly see it from the bungalow.
The butler at Castlereigh gave us a tour. All of the rooms were empty as it was a transition day for all of the hotel’s guests. The two spacious luxury rooms – Jamieson and Tate (where Kathie stayed) have a fantastic location directly overlooking the reservoir. The dining area faces a small pool. The gardens around the bungalow were lovely. Norwood and Castlereigh have 5 rooms but Castlereigh does not have a master suite. If we come to Tea Trails again would certainly consider Castlereigh.
Our hike was fantastic – we didn’t get going until almost 11 AM so we were again dealing with the heat of the sun – but it didn’t matter. This time we remembered to bring the sunscreen. We had chosen the long hike and the Castlereigh butler had provided us with a map. Again, the trail was well-marked. Shortly after getting going we came upon a school track meet with spectators cheering in the distance. As we walked closer, it became apparent that it was just getting started. A boy running with an Olympic torch appeared and the races were on. We watched for a while then continued walking. Like our previous day’s hike, there was a lot of up and down – tea grows better on hills because the slopes facilitate drainage. As we were walking we passed many individuals and families making their way on foot to the track meet – plenty of photo opportunities.
The hike lasted about 2 hours – the timing was perfect as we had arranged lunch for 1:30 PM. Our chef at Norwood had consulted with the Castlereigh chef regarding our menu. We were the only ones dining until another couple showed up toward the end of our meal. Jeane decided to take some photos so I started talking to the other couple. I am glad I did – they were from the UK like many others we met in Sri Lanka. They were extremely well traveled and we talked for a good hour about our mutual experiences. They didn’t seem to mind at all eating and talking at the same time. Jeane returned and we talked some more. Finally, it was time to get going.
Our suite, by the way was huge, distinctly Colonial in design with a four-poster bed, large oriental rugs, lots of windows and plenty of light. Although our Bungalow was originally built in 1890 and rebuilt in 1940, everything about it was new since Tea Trails only opened 3 years ago. The large bath had double vessel-style sinks and lots of counter space. Jeane loved the heated towel rack. The shower/bath combo can only be described as awkward, although the rain shower spigot provided lots of hot water. The suite had its own private garden with comfortable lounge chairs for sitting outside.
Norwood is the largest of the bungalows in acreage. Because of that and its central location to the other three bungalows, the bakery and the laundry facilities are located here. We took our time walking around, checking out the fabulous pool and large vegetable garden. After we were done walking, it was time for tea, which was served to us in the dining room. The tea was fine and we nibbled on the little pastries and sandwiches even though we weren’t at all hungry. We decided that going forward we didn’t need to do this any more and would have our tea with our meals. We scheduled dinner with our server for 7:30 PM. They told us we could have our meals any time we wanted but that dinner was normally at 8 with cocktail hour at 7.
After tea, I wanted to read for a while. Jeane didn’t want to sit around so she asked our butler about going on one of the short self-guided hikes that the activities director showed us. He was reluctant at first due to concern for her safety going alone but Jeane was persistent – she just wanted to walk around and take some photos before it got dark. Our butler gave her a map and off she went, returning an hour or so later. We went for cocktails that night at 7 and chatted briefly with a British couple before we sat down to dinner.
The next morning Jeane wanted to repeat her hike and catch the sunrise – waking up at 5:30 AM. I told her she was on her own. Before we turned in, I gave our butler a big load of laundry and arranged for coffee in the room at 6 AM. We appreciated the “free” laundry service and I appreciated not having to brew my own coffee. We had laundry done every day.
We had scheduled the tour at the nearby Norwood Tea Factory at 9 AM. Jeane had to hustle after she returned from shooting the sunrise so that we would not have to rush through breakfast to be ready for our tour. Tea Trails had arranged for the British couple that we met the previous night and their two teenagers to join us in the Tea Trails van for the drive down to the factory. We were ready to go at 9 but much to our dismay the British family had just started to eat their breakfast. I made a bit of a scene with our butler and after considering alternatives for us and for the family he decided to ask them to GET MOVING. By 9:15 we were on our way. The parents apologized to us for the delay and blamed the Tea Trails staff for telling them they only needed ½ hour to eat. I suspect however that the real problem lay with the two kids who were unable to get out of bed that morning.
The tea factory tour was excellent – everything you ever wanted to know about growing, manufacturing and drinking tea. The tour was led by one of Tea Trails’ assistant managers. He had a great sense of humor and boundless enthusiasm. We would run into him later on at the Summerville Bungalow. After two hours we were returned to Norwood along with a couple from Tientsen Bungalow. They were staying for lunch.
Jeane and I decided to take the long (1½ hour) self-guided walk before lunch. The trails are all well marked with signs and arrows – sometimes on paved roads but usually on dirt or gravel tracks. This hike started out on the main road from our bungalow – we did not appreciate having to move aside for the tuk-tuks and vans that seemed to pass by at regular intervals as we trudged up the hill. Eventually we got off the main road and could enjoy the wonderful scenery (tea fields everywhere) and views of the mountains in the distance. At one point we could see Adam’s Peak where Sri Lankans make their pilgrimage up the mountain in the middle of the night so that they can see the sun rise when they reach the summit. While it was not terribly hot for a mid-day hike, we neglected to put on sunscreen. Fortunately we wore hats but our arms and the back of our necks got burnt pretty badly. From then on we made sure to apply sunscreen before going out.
We enjoyed another delicious lunch and both decided to relax for the remainder of the day. I found a book in the library, Michael Crichton’s “Next” and began to work through it. We had another nice dinner that night but were disappointed that no one else showed up at cocktail hour.
We thought it might be nice to try a hike at one of the other bungalows so we asked our butler to contact Rammuni so that our driver could take us to Castlereigh the next day. We would also have lunch there after our hike. Rammuni and the driver arrived promptly at 9 after our 7:30 AM breakfast. They were in good spirits, apparently enjoying their accommodations and their time off. The drive to Castlereigh took almost an hour as we stopped to take photos of a cricket match along the way. As Kathie said in her trip report, the Castlereigh Bungalow is located in a stunning setting right by the Castlereigh reservoir. This is in contrast to Norwood which is so high above the reservoir that we could hardly see it from the bungalow.
The butler at Castlereigh gave us a tour. All of the rooms were empty as it was a transition day for all of the hotel’s guests. The two spacious luxury rooms – Jamieson and Tate (where Kathie stayed) have a fantastic location directly overlooking the reservoir. The dining area faces a small pool. The gardens around the bungalow were lovely. Norwood and Castlereigh have 5 rooms but Castlereigh does not have a master suite. If we come to Tea Trails again would certainly consider Castlereigh.
Our hike was fantastic – we didn’t get going until almost 11 AM so we were again dealing with the heat of the sun – but it didn’t matter. This time we remembered to bring the sunscreen. We had chosen the long hike and the Castlereigh butler had provided us with a map. Again, the trail was well-marked. Shortly after getting going we came upon a school track meet with spectators cheering in the distance. As we walked closer, it became apparent that it was just getting started. A boy running with an Olympic torch appeared and the races were on. We watched for a while then continued walking. Like our previous day’s hike, there was a lot of up and down – tea grows better on hills because the slopes facilitate drainage. As we were walking we passed many individuals and families making their way on foot to the track meet – plenty of photo opportunities.
The hike lasted about 2 hours – the timing was perfect as we had arranged lunch for 1:30 PM. Our chef at Norwood had consulted with the Castlereigh chef regarding our menu. We were the only ones dining until another couple showed up toward the end of our meal. Jeane decided to take some photos so I started talking to the other couple. I am glad I did – they were from the UK like many others we met in Sri Lanka. They were extremely well traveled and we talked for a good hour about our mutual experiences. They didn’t seem to mind at all eating and talking at the same time. Jeane returned and we talked some more. Finally, it was time to get going.
