China - Japan April 2009 Trip Report
Apr 12th, 2009, 05:30 PM
#21
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Hey jayc, its Aunty Queenie here. Glad to hear you two are having a wonderful time there! And completely on your own...
Too bad about the Xi'an experience. It could have been very different had you had an excellent guide showing you the most important and significant things of this ancient city.
Will be following along with you on all your reports. Fascinating reading!!!
Too bad about the Xi'an experience. It could have been very different had you had an excellent guide showing you the most important and significant things of this ancient city.
Will be following along with you on all your reports. Fascinating reading!!!
Apr 13th, 2009, 07:59 AM
#22
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April 13, 2009
Woke up early again. We always do when we are on vacation. We find the best time to explore cities, is before the norm wake-up. We decided to head towards the Xi’an walls and check them out.
Got there about 7am and found out they were not open until 8am. That was fine, we were happy to walk around the surrounding area.
We explored all the surrounding streets and stumbled upon a park right outside the Xi’an walls, where music was blasting and people were dancing. It was a really great scene. My wife (who’s a part time aerobic instructor and teaches a class called Dancefix, please visit her website at www.dancefix.ca. There is nothing quite like a shameless plug) wanted to break a class down for them but we didn’t have time. Too bad, it would have been comical. Maybe in Guilin ☺.
Side Note: All of the parks in China are very heavily used. People dancing, playing chess, Tai Chi, etc. It is really wonderful. In Canada you find parks completely abandoned and empty. Parks are not made by space, but with the energy of the people that use them. I really wish that my non-English speaking Grandma had parks like this to go to back home. Seniors practicing Tai Chi, dancing, etc. She is very isolated back home, not a big enough population. I think she would be very happy living in Xian or Beijing. Maybe in another life…
We started getting hungry so we looked for a quick bite. We stumbled upon a busy local restaurant that served bowls of Tofu, I know this a Dofu Fai in Cantonese (you can have it sweet or savory, we chose sweet), soup with bean curd, bamboo and chili and all types of deep fried breads to dip in them. Chinese donut, onion cake, deep fried bread stuffed with pickled condiments, chives cilantro. We had quite the spread for $10 Yuan!! It was absolutely scrumptious and just what we were looking for. Again the food in Xi’an is incredible. Next time I am in China I will come here just to eat for a few days with no more than $100 Yuan in my pocket.
While we were enjoying our breakfast with several other locals we started hearing some serious arguing going on. It got louder and louder. Although I don’t speak Mandarin, we all know swear words in every foreign language so I knew things were getting heated when I kept hearing “tah mah de” loudly. A lady customer was accusing the lady vendor of not giving her proper change. Next thing you know things escalated and they started hitting each other. It was crazy! When I say crazy I don’t mean the fighting either, what I mean is it is crazy for $10 Yuan we got an excellent breakfast and a show o boot!
What makes this more puzzling is that we paid $10 Yuan for our breakfast. How much could they be really fighting over, a couple of Yuan!! I guess when my Dad said people over here will kill you for a Yuan he wasn’t kidding. My wife felt fairly uncomfortable after the scene and lost her appetite but I wasn’t about to leave all the good food unfinished, so I polished it off. The fight worked out great for me LOL.
After the fight we went to check out the wall. After paying $80 Yuan we were in (the tourist attractions in Xi’an seem really steep, we didn’t even go in the Drum Tower because it was so expensive).
The Xi’an city walls are very scenic and impressive. The views in the morning are just remarkable. Worth every Yuan. The contrast of old and new is so cool I am getting goosebumps just thinking about it right now. I take back all my negative comments about this city. Like most of my best friends in life, I hated Xi’an at first, but its charm, history and food really grew on me and now I love it and will have to return someday, hopefully with my children.
The wall was virtually deserted except for a few locals getting in an early morning jog. How awesome would it be to go for your daily jog on the Xi’an city walls? Pretty cool. I am an avid biker back home so I had dreams of riding a tandem bike with Kirsten on the wall. No go, the shop wasn’t open yet. It wasn’t going to be open until 9am and we had to depart the hotel at about 10am to catch our flight to Guilin so it wasn’t meant to be. Did that stop me from riding a bike on the Xi’an wall? Heck no! I talked a rickshaw driver into letting me take Kirsten on one while I drove it, $20 Yuan.
It was hilarious as our driver was running beside us while we were moving, I guess to make sure he was working LOL. Some drivers in Xi’an have ethics, unlike that numb nuts driver from yesterday. I kept begging him to get on the rickshaw with my wife, as I wanted the weight of two people so I could see what it is like for him. He declined, and said “he would feel uncomfortable, as I was his boss, he was the employee”.
Side Note: Chinese really seem to know their role and place in society. There is an obvious pecking order here and people just accept it. Huge class system.
My wife thinks that with those types of comments, combined with extra attention from Chinese females (obviously looking for Citizenship, I am getting hit on everywhere) that I am developing a King complex LOL. Maybe I am, but it is good to be King. Kirsten says that we are in bizarro world as back home she is hit on constantly and I get nothing, here it is the opposite. My ego would not fit on my small island right now.
After the Xi’an walls it was time for us to go. Our asses were still sore from getting raped by our cabbie yesterday so we decided to take the shuttle to the airport.
Right in front of the Melody Hotel (near Star Ferry restaurant) a shuttle leaves every 15 minutes. Bus is air conditioned and cost $25 Yuan per person, perfect. Just make sure you figure out which terminal you need to get off at, there are two at Xi’an airport. We are descending now so I better go, Yangshou or bust…
Side Rant: Its interesting…Chinese have no concept of personal space. When you stand in line they basically are right up on you, so close you can smell them. Is it just me or does there seem to be a mothball-smoke smell associated with most middle-older aged men and women. I am not trying to be a prick, but the smell is there. I am sitting next to a women on the plane right now and her arms and elbows have found there way to my ribs countless times, so much I can’t nap. I guess when you live amongst a billion people there is no such thing as personal space LOL.
Have I died and gone to Yangshou?
We arrived in Guilin on schedule. From the moment we saw Guilin from the airplane we both had ear to ear grins, it had been a while since we had seen so much green minus the smog ☺.
We hired a private guide for $2400 Yuan for 3 days. It seems a bit pricey, but we know Guilin is a rural area so we don’t mind paying extra for piece of mind. I will sum up the value of hiring a guide in this area for all the Fodorites later. We booked the tour through Jade Leo but he was sick (funny so was Konglin, I think this is code for double booked) but it was even better as he sent a guide named Eric that speaks Cantonese and English. It gives me a chance to hone my language before Guangzhou and Hong Kong.
Speaking a second language is like riding a bike, you never forget. I was a bit unconfident with my Cantonese as it had been a while since I NEEDED it, but once we got conversing I was letting it rip like I had never left Hong Kong. I was even using some cool slang and dropping the occasional “dew” and “lun” for effect to let Eric know I wasn’t your average banana.
He picked us up with no issues and had a driver as well, 2 for 1 Guilin special. I like having a driver and guide as the driver can do his thing and the guide can do his thing. For my wife and I, Guilin was love at first sight. The mountains, lush green vegetation, villages, rice paddies with farmers, water buffalo (something out of a scene from Big Bird in China my favorite childhood movie).
Eric started earning his money immediately, giving us the breakdown on Guilin and what to expect, describing sights all around us. We felt safe, secure and happy something we could not say about arriving in Beijing or Xi’an.
After about a half hour Eric and Horse (his last name is Mah which in Cantonese means horse so we have coined him the nickname) made a stop at a bridge so we could take some pics. We immediately saw a cormorant fisherman and the Li river with mountains in the background. The scenery just gives you a calming rush, especially after being in two huge cities. It felt like we could breath again both literally and metaphorically.
When we first pulled in to Yangshou we both immediately felt at home. It was like we had just started our vacation form our vacation! Like a Chinese Whistler, with a touch of Cabo, a whisper of Hawaii except with cheaper and better food!
Checked in to the Magnolia hotel, my dad recommended it and what a great call. We booked through Sino Hotel again although they didn’t have any deluxe rooms left, we booked the family room instead. It was $450 Yuan. It seemed a bit pricey but we were looking forward to a bigger hotel room so we went for it.
Side Note: Sino Hotel is fantastic. All of the China hotels are also spelt in Chinese which we have showed all Taxi drivers so they know where to take us, when you send in your room request they e-mail you back immediately and their response times on questions and requests are immediate, fantastic website and best of all no need for a credit card. We booked Magnolia last night at 9pm and arrived with no issues, just wonderful.
Man were we glad we did!!!!!! The room is huge with a great view of the street, hardwood floors throughout (the carpets in China hotels are disgusting, I am obsessive compulsive when it comes to dirty hotels so it has been tough for me, a lot of hand sanitizer on my feet before bed LOL), wireless internet (I was getting annoyed with those barbaric Ethernet Cables), glass stand up spacious showers, screens on the huge picture windows, soft mattresses, I could go on for while…lets just say if you are coming here look no further. I am a 5 star hotel guy and this place is right up there.
After we checked in and freshened up Eric took us to one of his favorite restaurants for lunch. Just 4 doors down from the Magnolia on the left. It was the best meal we have had since arriving. Having a local order for you helps out a lot. We had the local beer fish, green beans with chili’s and garlic and braised pork belly with taro root (I told you a whisper of Hawaii). It was a bit pricey $200 Yuan but we wanted to buy Eric and Horse lunch so for four people it was well worth it. The flavors were popping out of the dishes and the veggies were the freshest we have had since arriving in China. Maybe its part mental; but I assure you my palate is pretty accurate and honest no matter how I am feeling.
BEST PART ABOUT YANGSHOU: My wife has been feeling really sick yet she has been a real trooper. She has been stuffed up, coughing constantly, suffering bad headaches, skin breaking out. Her virgin non-smoker lungs just can’t handle the China pollution. But hours after we got to Yangshou all her symptoms are gone. Call me crazy but this place is just magic for us right now. This is the first afternoon she has declined the nap!
We are on our way to check out the Cormorant fishing so until then…
We met our guide at 7pm and walked down to where the cormorant fishing is.
Helpful Hint: When in Yangshou, take a powerful bug spray. There are mosquitoes everywhere. We had some so we escaped with minimal damage.
We boarded a boat and when we got there it was dusk and by the time we set sail it was dark. We were skeptical as how were we going to see anything in the dark?
We got our answer in about 15 minutes. The way it works is that you stay on your boat and meet up with a boat that has the cormorants and one fisherman equipped with lights and all. There is no warning, as soon as you pull up to the other boat they release the cormorants into the water and the boats race off side by side as the lights focus on the cormorants diving in and out of the water looking off fish. It seemed really staged and hokey but ever since I caught a episode of Survivor that featured this I have been fascinated with it ever since.
It seemed pretty stupid at first as all you saw was the cormorants diving in and out of the water not seeming to catch anything at all. It was pretty neat to see the birds up close and personal though. How close I would soon discover.
After about 10 minutes of watching the birds swimming and diving we docked at a small Island where we all got off. At this point the fisherman grabbed one of the Cormorants by the neck and squeezed 3 fish out him, all about 2” by 3”. It was pretty cool. The fisherman docked first so I don’t know if he had fish already that he fed the Cormorant, or if it was legit. Anyhow, we were able to see how it was done. Next the Fisherman invited people to go beside him while he placed the Cormorant on their arm so a picture’s could be taken. I have a really bad phobia of birds for some reason so when the opportunity came to hold the Cormorant I knew this was my chance to conquer this. Yes I did and yes I can.
It seems like the birds are being exploited, but to be fair this has been going on for a long time and what is the difference between making them catch fish for you or making them take pictures. Also it really seemed like the Fisherman has love for these birds and they were pets as well as tools so he could earn a living. No more harsh than water buffalo for farmers. It wasn’t the best thing I have ever done, but for one hour of my life if this is something that interests you give it a try. It’s decent.
After the Cormorants, we explored Yangshou’s night scene. And what a scene it was! Nightclubs galore pumping western music, great outdoor restaurants packed with tourists, all sort of street vendors selling everything from t-shirts to street meat. It was bustling and very lively. My wife and I plan to hit the bars tomorrow night after a good nights sleep. Walking around here at night for the first time in China without worrying about our wallets, traffic and solicitors was great. Food is cheap (our dinner was $40 Yuan), not too crowded and the vendors are not aggressive at all (unlike Silk Street Market). Going to bed now, will report more tomorrow.
Woke up early again. We always do when we are on vacation. We find the best time to explore cities, is before the norm wake-up. We decided to head towards the Xi’an walls and check them out.
Got there about 7am and found out they were not open until 8am. That was fine, we were happy to walk around the surrounding area.
We explored all the surrounding streets and stumbled upon a park right outside the Xi’an walls, where music was blasting and people were dancing. It was a really great scene. My wife (who’s a part time aerobic instructor and teaches a class called Dancefix, please visit her website at www.dancefix.ca. There is nothing quite like a shameless plug) wanted to break a class down for them but we didn’t have time. Too bad, it would have been comical. Maybe in Guilin ☺.
Side Note: All of the parks in China are very heavily used. People dancing, playing chess, Tai Chi, etc. It is really wonderful. In Canada you find parks completely abandoned and empty. Parks are not made by space, but with the energy of the people that use them. I really wish that my non-English speaking Grandma had parks like this to go to back home. Seniors practicing Tai Chi, dancing, etc. She is very isolated back home, not a big enough population. I think she would be very happy living in Xian or Beijing. Maybe in another life…
We started getting hungry so we looked for a quick bite. We stumbled upon a busy local restaurant that served bowls of Tofu, I know this a Dofu Fai in Cantonese (you can have it sweet or savory, we chose sweet), soup with bean curd, bamboo and chili and all types of deep fried breads to dip in them. Chinese donut, onion cake, deep fried bread stuffed with pickled condiments, chives cilantro. We had quite the spread for $10 Yuan!! It was absolutely scrumptious and just what we were looking for. Again the food in Xi’an is incredible. Next time I am in China I will come here just to eat for a few days with no more than $100 Yuan in my pocket.
While we were enjoying our breakfast with several other locals we started hearing some serious arguing going on. It got louder and louder. Although I don’t speak Mandarin, we all know swear words in every foreign language so I knew things were getting heated when I kept hearing “tah mah de” loudly. A lady customer was accusing the lady vendor of not giving her proper change. Next thing you know things escalated and they started hitting each other. It was crazy! When I say crazy I don’t mean the fighting either, what I mean is it is crazy for $10 Yuan we got an excellent breakfast and a show o boot!
What makes this more puzzling is that we paid $10 Yuan for our breakfast. How much could they be really fighting over, a couple of Yuan!! I guess when my Dad said people over here will kill you for a Yuan he wasn’t kidding. My wife felt fairly uncomfortable after the scene and lost her appetite but I wasn’t about to leave all the good food unfinished, so I polished it off. The fight worked out great for me LOL.
After the fight we went to check out the wall. After paying $80 Yuan we were in (the tourist attractions in Xi’an seem really steep, we didn’t even go in the Drum Tower because it was so expensive).
The Xi’an city walls are very scenic and impressive. The views in the morning are just remarkable. Worth every Yuan. The contrast of old and new is so cool I am getting goosebumps just thinking about it right now. I take back all my negative comments about this city. Like most of my best friends in life, I hated Xi’an at first, but its charm, history and food really grew on me and now I love it and will have to return someday, hopefully with my children.
The wall was virtually deserted except for a few locals getting in an early morning jog. How awesome would it be to go for your daily jog on the Xi’an city walls? Pretty cool. I am an avid biker back home so I had dreams of riding a tandem bike with Kirsten on the wall. No go, the shop wasn’t open yet. It wasn’t going to be open until 9am and we had to depart the hotel at about 10am to catch our flight to Guilin so it wasn’t meant to be. Did that stop me from riding a bike on the Xi’an wall? Heck no! I talked a rickshaw driver into letting me take Kirsten on one while I drove it, $20 Yuan.
It was hilarious as our driver was running beside us while we were moving, I guess to make sure he was working LOL. Some drivers in Xi’an have ethics, unlike that numb nuts driver from yesterday. I kept begging him to get on the rickshaw with my wife, as I wanted the weight of two people so I could see what it is like for him. He declined, and said “he would feel uncomfortable, as I was his boss, he was the employee”.
Side Note: Chinese really seem to know their role and place in society. There is an obvious pecking order here and people just accept it. Huge class system.
My wife thinks that with those types of comments, combined with extra attention from Chinese females (obviously looking for Citizenship, I am getting hit on everywhere) that I am developing a King complex LOL. Maybe I am, but it is good to be King. Kirsten says that we are in bizarro world as back home she is hit on constantly and I get nothing, here it is the opposite. My ego would not fit on my small island right now.
After the Xi’an walls it was time for us to go. Our asses were still sore from getting raped by our cabbie yesterday so we decided to take the shuttle to the airport.
Right in front of the Melody Hotel (near Star Ferry restaurant) a shuttle leaves every 15 minutes. Bus is air conditioned and cost $25 Yuan per person, perfect. Just make sure you figure out which terminal you need to get off at, there are two at Xi’an airport. We are descending now so I better go, Yangshou or bust…
Side Rant: Its interesting…Chinese have no concept of personal space. When you stand in line they basically are right up on you, so close you can smell them. Is it just me or does there seem to be a mothball-smoke smell associated with most middle-older aged men and women. I am not trying to be a prick, but the smell is there. I am sitting next to a women on the plane right now and her arms and elbows have found there way to my ribs countless times, so much I can’t nap. I guess when you live amongst a billion people there is no such thing as personal space LOL.
Have I died and gone to Yangshou?
We arrived in Guilin on schedule. From the moment we saw Guilin from the airplane we both had ear to ear grins, it had been a while since we had seen so much green minus the smog ☺.
We hired a private guide for $2400 Yuan for 3 days. It seems a bit pricey, but we know Guilin is a rural area so we don’t mind paying extra for piece of mind. I will sum up the value of hiring a guide in this area for all the Fodorites later. We booked the tour through Jade Leo but he was sick (funny so was Konglin, I think this is code for double booked) but it was even better as he sent a guide named Eric that speaks Cantonese and English. It gives me a chance to hone my language before Guangzhou and Hong Kong.
Speaking a second language is like riding a bike, you never forget. I was a bit unconfident with my Cantonese as it had been a while since I NEEDED it, but once we got conversing I was letting it rip like I had never left Hong Kong. I was even using some cool slang and dropping the occasional “dew” and “lun” for effect to let Eric know I wasn’t your average banana.
He picked us up with no issues and had a driver as well, 2 for 1 Guilin special. I like having a driver and guide as the driver can do his thing and the guide can do his thing. For my wife and I, Guilin was love at first sight. The mountains, lush green vegetation, villages, rice paddies with farmers, water buffalo (something out of a scene from Big Bird in China my favorite childhood movie).
Eric started earning his money immediately, giving us the breakdown on Guilin and what to expect, describing sights all around us. We felt safe, secure and happy something we could not say about arriving in Beijing or Xi’an.
After about a half hour Eric and Horse (his last name is Mah which in Cantonese means horse so we have coined him the nickname) made a stop at a bridge so we could take some pics. We immediately saw a cormorant fisherman and the Li river with mountains in the background. The scenery just gives you a calming rush, especially after being in two huge cities. It felt like we could breath again both literally and metaphorically.
When we first pulled in to Yangshou we both immediately felt at home. It was like we had just started our vacation form our vacation! Like a Chinese Whistler, with a touch of Cabo, a whisper of Hawaii except with cheaper and better food!
Checked in to the Magnolia hotel, my dad recommended it and what a great call. We booked through Sino Hotel again although they didn’t have any deluxe rooms left, we booked the family room instead. It was $450 Yuan. It seemed a bit pricey but we were looking forward to a bigger hotel room so we went for it.
Side Note: Sino Hotel is fantastic. All of the China hotels are also spelt in Chinese which we have showed all Taxi drivers so they know where to take us, when you send in your room request they e-mail you back immediately and their response times on questions and requests are immediate, fantastic website and best of all no need for a credit card. We booked Magnolia last night at 9pm and arrived with no issues, just wonderful.
Man were we glad we did!!!!!! The room is huge with a great view of the street, hardwood floors throughout (the carpets in China hotels are disgusting, I am obsessive compulsive when it comes to dirty hotels so it has been tough for me, a lot of hand sanitizer on my feet before bed LOL), wireless internet (I was getting annoyed with those barbaric Ethernet Cables), glass stand up spacious showers, screens on the huge picture windows, soft mattresses, I could go on for while…lets just say if you are coming here look no further. I am a 5 star hotel guy and this place is right up there.
After we checked in and freshened up Eric took us to one of his favorite restaurants for lunch. Just 4 doors down from the Magnolia on the left. It was the best meal we have had since arriving. Having a local order for you helps out a lot. We had the local beer fish, green beans with chili’s and garlic and braised pork belly with taro root (I told you a whisper of Hawaii). It was a bit pricey $200 Yuan but we wanted to buy Eric and Horse lunch so for four people it was well worth it. The flavors were popping out of the dishes and the veggies were the freshest we have had since arriving in China. Maybe its part mental; but I assure you my palate is pretty accurate and honest no matter how I am feeling.
BEST PART ABOUT YANGSHOU: My wife has been feeling really sick yet she has been a real trooper. She has been stuffed up, coughing constantly, suffering bad headaches, skin breaking out. Her virgin non-smoker lungs just can’t handle the China pollution. But hours after we got to Yangshou all her symptoms are gone. Call me crazy but this place is just magic for us right now. This is the first afternoon she has declined the nap!
We are on our way to check out the Cormorant fishing so until then…
We met our guide at 7pm and walked down to where the cormorant fishing is.
Helpful Hint: When in Yangshou, take a powerful bug spray. There are mosquitoes everywhere. We had some so we escaped with minimal damage.
We boarded a boat and when we got there it was dusk and by the time we set sail it was dark. We were skeptical as how were we going to see anything in the dark?
We got our answer in about 15 minutes. The way it works is that you stay on your boat and meet up with a boat that has the cormorants and one fisherman equipped with lights and all. There is no warning, as soon as you pull up to the other boat they release the cormorants into the water and the boats race off side by side as the lights focus on the cormorants diving in and out of the water looking off fish. It seemed really staged and hokey but ever since I caught a episode of Survivor that featured this I have been fascinated with it ever since.
It seemed pretty stupid at first as all you saw was the cormorants diving in and out of the water not seeming to catch anything at all. It was pretty neat to see the birds up close and personal though. How close I would soon discover.
After about 10 minutes of watching the birds swimming and diving we docked at a small Island where we all got off. At this point the fisherman grabbed one of the Cormorants by the neck and squeezed 3 fish out him, all about 2” by 3”. It was pretty cool. The fisherman docked first so I don’t know if he had fish already that he fed the Cormorant, or if it was legit. Anyhow, we were able to see how it was done. Next the Fisherman invited people to go beside him while he placed the Cormorant on their arm so a picture’s could be taken. I have a really bad phobia of birds for some reason so when the opportunity came to hold the Cormorant I knew this was my chance to conquer this. Yes I did and yes I can.
It seems like the birds are being exploited, but to be fair this has been going on for a long time and what is the difference between making them catch fish for you or making them take pictures. Also it really seemed like the Fisherman has love for these birds and they were pets as well as tools so he could earn a living. No more harsh than water buffalo for farmers. It wasn’t the best thing I have ever done, but for one hour of my life if this is something that interests you give it a try. It’s decent.
After the Cormorants, we explored Yangshou’s night scene. And what a scene it was! Nightclubs galore pumping western music, great outdoor restaurants packed with tourists, all sort of street vendors selling everything from t-shirts to street meat. It was bustling and very lively. My wife and I plan to hit the bars tomorrow night after a good nights sleep. Walking around here at night for the first time in China without worrying about our wallets, traffic and solicitors was great. Food is cheap (our dinner was $40 Yuan), not too crowded and the vendors are not aggressive at all (unlike Silk Street Market). Going to bed now, will report more tomorrow.
Apr 13th, 2009, 02:41 PM
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Snack King Kong from days of old, -you are still the King! With your 6'2" frame, fair and clear complexion, those little ladies probably think you are a film star or something. And then when they realize you are Canadian, -whoa Kirsten, hang on to him tightly. Really getting a kick out of reading your adventures...now to see your photos!
Apr 13th, 2009, 02:59 PM
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jay, don't let your guard down, thieves are lurking at everyturn, you will always be a target, a rich tourist........
we love Yangshou, wait till you see the show.......
Hawaiiantraveler, do you live in Honolulu, wife and I will be there in December 7 for a week, if you are in town, can we buy you a drink!
Sam.
we love Yangshou, wait till you see the show.......
Hawaiiantraveler, do you live in Honolulu, wife and I will be there in December 7 for a week, if you are in town, can we buy you a drink!
Sam.
Apr 13th, 2009, 03:47 PM
#26
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Guard is up, don't worry, be happy. Just got up weather is perfect. Really excited for the day.
Auntie Queenie: we will be posting pics on a site when we get home, I will forward you the link.
Images2: I am jealous, we have had such a good time I wish I was leaving for this trip in 3 1/2 weeks as well so I can relive it!
Auntie Queenie: we will be posting pics on a site when we get home, I will forward you the link.
Images2: I am jealous, we have had such a good time I wish I was leaving for this trip in 3 1/2 weeks as well so I can relive it!
Apr 14th, 2009, 06:49 AM
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You're trip isn't over yet jayc. Enjoy every minute of it! I'm looking forward to your report on Yangshou as well! We've also hired a guide there. We're spending our first night in the area in Ping'an (at the rice terraces) then 3 at the Li River Retreat just outside of Yangshou.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Apr 15th, 2009, 02:29 AM
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Images 2: We just came back from Ping'an (Longsheng Rice Terraces) today. Had a great experience. I wish we had stayed up there instead right now we are in Guilin which is not really that great. We just went for a walk around town and felt people were just glaring at us in a way that made us feel uncomfortable. I would skip this city if I could do it again. The people in Ping'an are really nice and friendly. Going form Yangshou/Longsheng to Guilin is a real shock to the system. Will have the whole trip report posted soon. Enjoy, you are going to love it.
Apr 15th, 2009, 11:18 AM
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Hi Jason & Kirsten
Really enjoy reading your report. I can feel the excitement in your voice, feels like we are travelling right along side with you. Your dad is right, watch out for those thieves, they work in pairs. Kirsten, you must, must, take advantage of the massages, it so cheap. Can't wait to read more. Stay safe, healthy, and happy!
Uncle Whyte & Auntie Jennifer
Really enjoy reading your report. I can feel the excitement in your voice, feels like we are travelling right along side with you. Your dad is right, watch out for those thieves, they work in pairs. Kirsten, you must, must, take advantage of the massages, it so cheap. Can't wait to read more. Stay safe, healthy, and happy!
Uncle Whyte & Auntie Jennifer
Apr 16th, 2009, 12:31 PM
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indiancouple,
never did have a chance to thankyou for your wonderful detail report to Spain last year, not only did I enjoyed it, we stayed at some of the same hotels you stayed. You were a great help to our most enjoyable 13 days in Spain.
Have a nice trip in China.
Sam.
never did have a chance to thankyou for your wonderful detail report to Spain last year, not only did I enjoyed it, we stayed at some of the same hotels you stayed. You were a great help to our most enjoyable 13 days in Spain.
Have a nice trip in China.
Sam.
Apr 17th, 2009, 04:19 AM
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April 14, 2009
“Long live the Queen”
We had breakfast at a great local restaurant. It’s really nice how all of the Yangshou restaurants have outdoor seating. Congee with pork and century old egg, meat filled buns (what meat I don’t know but it was good), Chinese donut and Guilin noodles (rice noodles like spaghetti in a spicy broth with peanuts and pickled vegetables delicious!) for $10 Yuan. We will be back tomorrow before leaving for Longsheng.
After breakfast Eric came and picked us up. We started our day by walking around a local village right near Moon Hill. It is always interesting to see how the locals live. We took some great pics of water buffalo, farmers (with permission) and just walked around and enjoyed the landscape.
Next we went to Moon Hill Park, something that I was not expecting to be that great, but it was excellent. Moon Hill is a mountain with a hole running through the middle. It looks like an archway.
When we first pulled in to the parking lot, a group of local solicitors ran after the car. They were yelling and so excited we thought we had offended them somehow. We were both so alarmed that we rolled up our windows and felt moderately uncomfortable. We definitely did not get out of our car right away. Turns out they just wanted to sell us water. We felt like celebrities as we got out of the car. The solicitors surrounded us like the Paparazzi LOL. We kept saying, “boo yow leh” (no thanks), but did that stop them…heck no! They were a persistent bunch. We started our ascent to the top (about ½ hour from the bottom) and picked up two fans along the way (double meaning, you’ll see later on in this story). Along with our guide, two women (in their 60s) started following us up the hill.
With our guide and the two women, all of a sudden we had an entourage. The women were friendly enough and I could pick up bits and pieces of what they were saying. They were commenting on how beautiful my wife was. I was proud ☺, these women must know that with me flattery will get you everywhere. We thought they would get the hint that we were not going to buy anything, but after about 10 minutes they were still walking with us, keeping a respectful distance, but following us no less. At first it was uncomfortable but then I just had to laugh and figure if you really want to make the hike with us then why not? The more the merrier, we didn’t feel threatened, what were two little Chinese ladies going to do?
After about 15 minutes Kirsten and Eric started to slow down. The elevation change and the heat were getting to them. When we stopped to rest both of our fans produced fans and started fanning themselves. When they saw how hot we were, they started fanning us. I made a joke and told them don’t worry about me just fan my wife. They obliged….next thing you know Queen Kirsten had 4 fans, 2 following her up the mountain, 2 frantically fanning her LOL. They followed her all the way up to the top, providing her human AC, making comments on her beauty and giving her what little English words of encouragement they knew, like “almost top!” and “3 Minute!”.
When we made it to the top they were smiling and seemed really happy they came along. Of course I bought a beer from them $15 Yuan well spent. The view from the top was spectacular. I cannot paint this picture with words. The Great Wall is magnificent but on the other hand it is man made. Something of this beauty created by Mother Nature draws other feelings and respect out of me.
Once at the top you are literally standing under the archway of the hole in the Hill with a fabulous view of the Yangshou landscape, surrounded by mountains and even with hot air balloons in the background. You could hear the bats inside the caves, and the condensation from the caves was raining down on us. It was stunning. After several pics I asked the ladies if I could have a picture with them. They were very flattered and both had genuine smiles (gold teeth and all) as the posed with the Queen for a shot.
After we made it down I wanted to give them some money for fanning the Queen Bee. Here is the thing that impressed me the most, they refused the money and continued to point at their drinks for sale. I felt really bad that I had offered them the money when I understood. You see; they are not beggars or scammers. They are in business, business people. They came up the mountain with us to sell water and beer, not to beg for money. They fanned the Queen because she was hot, not because they wanted $$$. I was moved by their hustle, their kindness and will remember these two women for the rest of my life. I thank them for once again showing me the pride and work ethic of the Chinese working class.
After Moon Hill Eric took us to Yulong River where we took a Bamboo raft down the river. The drive there was really interesting. We were driving on very rural roads and the scenery was very rustic. Farmer’s homes and lifestyle were very much on display.
The Yulong River ride was ok. I enjoyed myself but could take it or leave it for the $200 Yuan we paid. It made for great photos and was really nice at first but after about 20 minutes it was enough and I was just looking to get off, but still had and hour and 10 minutes to go. I wouldn’t recommend it, but I wouldn’t be against it either. Your choice; if you want to go, I am sure some people would love it. I just hate being on a body of water and not being able to dive in and swim (there were some local guys swimming but I didn’t have the nerve). Give me a powerboat and wakeboard over a bamboo raft any day LOL. The weather was perfect for a river ride though and it was an experience to remember.
After the river ride we were pretty spent so we went back to the hotel. At this point it was very humid and hot. Had to be 32C at least. I think I had heat stroke as I started to feel pretty bad. That or it was the 5 supersize beer I had the night before. We had a quick bite and laid down for a long afternoon nap, we wanted to be fresh for the “The Impressions of Lie Sanje” Li River Light show the coming evening.
The Li River light show was spectacular. Prices range from $150 Yuan person to $800 Yuan per person depending on your seats. Just get the cheap ones, there is not a bad seat in the house. You sit on a huge stage that is set right on the banks of the Li River. After we grabbed our popcorn and iced teas (I love any excuse to consume copious amounts of “corn”) we were set. Suddenly they kill the lights and you are in the pitch dark. You can barely make out the shadows of the Yanghsou mountains surrounding you, the crickets songs get louder as the lights go out, there is a strong feeling of anticipation in the air. Then……a spotlight hits the first performer on a bamboo raft in the middle of the river and she starts singing her song. She had the most beautiful voice.
Then they hit the lights and light up all of the mountains around you in different colors, the crowds goes wild with cheers and clapping, kids are cat calling. What an intro and the show just gets better from there. I won’t spoil it or do it injustice by trying to describe it any further. Anyone coming to China would be foolish not to see this show.
Observation: They must use many old folk songs during this show as many of the audience members were singing along, really adding to the atmosphere. I have noticed that the Chinese love to dance and sing. It is very common to hear workers singing while they work, drive, eat! I guess that is where my sister gets it. Anytime there is music (they seem to really enjoy heavy techno beats here surprisingly, old and young people alike) you will see people just dancing randomly, often with stern faces, it is a riot. We are starting to do it as well.
The director of the light show was also the director of the Olympic Games opening ceremonies. A lot of similarities were apparent between the two performances. Picture the 2008 Opening Ceremonies, but set on the Li River. WOW!
I had been searching for the same rush and feeling I got from the Great Wall since arriving and this show delivered. The magnitude, unity, creativity and beauty are indescribable. The amount of time, effort and skill needed to flawlessly execute this performance is mind blowing. It really gives me a sense that if something like this exists in the world, anything is possible.
After the show we had some more Beer Fish for dinner (I could eat it once a week, will try to re-create it with Salmon or Halibut when I get home) and we were bagged.
April 15, 2009
“Rice Terraces”
This morning we set out for Longsheng. Regretfully, we backed up our bags and we goodbye to Yangshou. Longsheng lived up to my expectations and more. It was breathtaking. The drive to Longsheng is very scenic. You can see rice terraces all along the way, as your vehicle snakes it’s way up the mountain.
I will begin by saying that the drive itself is quite treacherous. The road is very narrow; a lot of sharp/blind corners and most of the steep roads do not have railings to keep your vehicle from plummeting to its demise. Not to mention the good chance of a head on collision. There were definitely a few times I grabbed on to my “oh sh*t handles”. If the weather is not good, I would consider rescheduling, trust me it would be pretty risky. Horse faired very well though and got us there in one piece. It is about a 3-hour drive from Yangshou. We left at 8:30am and got in about 12:00pm with one pee stop. It was worth the long journey. The excursion itself was enjoyable so don’t be discouraged to go to Longsheng because of the long drive, you don’t even notice it with the beautiful scenery in the background.
We had a private guide (which I think is the way to go) but you could take a taxi or a tour bus as well.
We went to the Ping’an village and once we paid an entrance fee we continued to drive another 15 minutes to an even higher village. When arriving you get out and walk your way to the top. It is about a ½ hour hike.
There are people that offer to carry your luggage up……..and if you want there are rickshaw workers that will carry you up as well. Most of the people being carried up were older, but there were a few westerners that were younger that used the service. Shameless in my opinion, but I guess their laziness is someone else’s living. Some of the luggage and human carriers were older than my Grandma! It never ceases to amaze me what people here actually do for a living. It is humbling and very extraordinary. I know for a fact I could not make a living carrying luggage or humans up a steep hill all day at this sort of altitude. The rickshaw operators were charging $180 Yuan per person to the top.
The views on the way up are even more magnificent than the pictures I have seen. Every picture you take is a keeper. You are surrounded by postcard scenery. The best part is you can observe the farmers working the terraces. You can hear the hundreds of streams that run through the town and paddies. The air is even fresher than Yangshou’s; true countryside, virtually untouched and very clean.
When you get to the top the views are just incredible. At the summit we took lots of pics and then kicked back at the local café, had a drink, wrote some postcards……man this is the life. The weather was just perfect, sunny with an occasional breeze. The breeze reminded me of that scene in the movie Fearless, where Jet Li winds up in a village that resembles Longsheng (if you are coming to China I recommend you watch this flick as well as the Last Emperor) and when the breeze comes up all the farmers stop working for that moment and let the breeze re-energize them. As the breeze came up I looked at my surroundings and I stopped walking to enjoy the same gentle wind these farmers have been enjoying for hundreds of years.
I wish we had stayed the night up there but we have to move on. Time is starting to be of the essence. Next time I will stay for sure. There are lots of little hotels and Inns and seemed really safe. Lots of tourists around….all colors, shapes and sizes. The local people were very friendly, not pushy or threatening at all.
Side Note: Because I have heard so may negative stories about China, I came here with my guard up, scared of getting ripped off at every turn. For the most part all the locals have been really good to us. I think sometimes a smile and a “ni hao” go a long way. Of course they are going to try to get some of your tourist money, but in a legitimate manner. Sometimes you pay more than you should. However, even at home if we can charge more for something than less, we do it too. Chinese local people overall are good-hearted, good natured, friendly people. They have been really, really good to us.
Side Note: I am sitting in the car driving back to Guilin and the car is just filled with a wonderful scent from all of the orange trees blossoming around us. China has many different, strong smells, both good and bad.
After we left Longsheng we made our way to Guilin. Yuck, what a contrast. It’s like beauty and the beast. Here is what I have to say about Guilin: don’t bother. If you already have Yangshou, Lijiang or the rice terraces in your itinerary don’t waste your time. Also the people here are not as welcoming. Something about their mannerisms and the way they glare at you. Sorry Guilin, you may be cheap, but money isn’t everything. Off to Guangzhou , Jiangmen tomorrow to visit family I have never met, and check out the village where my great grandfather lived. I am bursting with anticipation and excitement.
“Long live the Queen”
We had breakfast at a great local restaurant. It’s really nice how all of the Yangshou restaurants have outdoor seating. Congee with pork and century old egg, meat filled buns (what meat I don’t know but it was good), Chinese donut and Guilin noodles (rice noodles like spaghetti in a spicy broth with peanuts and pickled vegetables delicious!) for $10 Yuan. We will be back tomorrow before leaving for Longsheng.
After breakfast Eric came and picked us up. We started our day by walking around a local village right near Moon Hill. It is always interesting to see how the locals live. We took some great pics of water buffalo, farmers (with permission) and just walked around and enjoyed the landscape.
Next we went to Moon Hill Park, something that I was not expecting to be that great, but it was excellent. Moon Hill is a mountain with a hole running through the middle. It looks like an archway.
When we first pulled in to the parking lot, a group of local solicitors ran after the car. They were yelling and so excited we thought we had offended them somehow. We were both so alarmed that we rolled up our windows and felt moderately uncomfortable. We definitely did not get out of our car right away. Turns out they just wanted to sell us water. We felt like celebrities as we got out of the car. The solicitors surrounded us like the Paparazzi LOL. We kept saying, “boo yow leh” (no thanks), but did that stop them…heck no! They were a persistent bunch. We started our ascent to the top (about ½ hour from the bottom) and picked up two fans along the way (double meaning, you’ll see later on in this story). Along with our guide, two women (in their 60s) started following us up the hill.
With our guide and the two women, all of a sudden we had an entourage. The women were friendly enough and I could pick up bits and pieces of what they were saying. They were commenting on how beautiful my wife was. I was proud ☺, these women must know that with me flattery will get you everywhere. We thought they would get the hint that we were not going to buy anything, but after about 10 minutes they were still walking with us, keeping a respectful distance, but following us no less. At first it was uncomfortable but then I just had to laugh and figure if you really want to make the hike with us then why not? The more the merrier, we didn’t feel threatened, what were two little Chinese ladies going to do?
After about 15 minutes Kirsten and Eric started to slow down. The elevation change and the heat were getting to them. When we stopped to rest both of our fans produced fans and started fanning themselves. When they saw how hot we were, they started fanning us. I made a joke and told them don’t worry about me just fan my wife. They obliged….next thing you know Queen Kirsten had 4 fans, 2 following her up the mountain, 2 frantically fanning her LOL. They followed her all the way up to the top, providing her human AC, making comments on her beauty and giving her what little English words of encouragement they knew, like “almost top!” and “3 Minute!”.
When we made it to the top they were smiling and seemed really happy they came along. Of course I bought a beer from them $15 Yuan well spent. The view from the top was spectacular. I cannot paint this picture with words. The Great Wall is magnificent but on the other hand it is man made. Something of this beauty created by Mother Nature draws other feelings and respect out of me.
Once at the top you are literally standing under the archway of the hole in the Hill with a fabulous view of the Yangshou landscape, surrounded by mountains and even with hot air balloons in the background. You could hear the bats inside the caves, and the condensation from the caves was raining down on us. It was stunning. After several pics I asked the ladies if I could have a picture with them. They were very flattered and both had genuine smiles (gold teeth and all) as the posed with the Queen for a shot.
After we made it down I wanted to give them some money for fanning the Queen Bee. Here is the thing that impressed me the most, they refused the money and continued to point at their drinks for sale. I felt really bad that I had offered them the money when I understood. You see; they are not beggars or scammers. They are in business, business people. They came up the mountain with us to sell water and beer, not to beg for money. They fanned the Queen because she was hot, not because they wanted $$$. I was moved by their hustle, their kindness and will remember these two women for the rest of my life. I thank them for once again showing me the pride and work ethic of the Chinese working class.
After Moon Hill Eric took us to Yulong River where we took a Bamboo raft down the river. The drive there was really interesting. We were driving on very rural roads and the scenery was very rustic. Farmer’s homes and lifestyle were very much on display.
The Yulong River ride was ok. I enjoyed myself but could take it or leave it for the $200 Yuan we paid. It made for great photos and was really nice at first but after about 20 minutes it was enough and I was just looking to get off, but still had and hour and 10 minutes to go. I wouldn’t recommend it, but I wouldn’t be against it either. Your choice; if you want to go, I am sure some people would love it. I just hate being on a body of water and not being able to dive in and swim (there were some local guys swimming but I didn’t have the nerve). Give me a powerboat and wakeboard over a bamboo raft any day LOL. The weather was perfect for a river ride though and it was an experience to remember.
After the river ride we were pretty spent so we went back to the hotel. At this point it was very humid and hot. Had to be 32C at least. I think I had heat stroke as I started to feel pretty bad. That or it was the 5 supersize beer I had the night before. We had a quick bite and laid down for a long afternoon nap, we wanted to be fresh for the “The Impressions of Lie Sanje” Li River Light show the coming evening.
The Li River light show was spectacular. Prices range from $150 Yuan person to $800 Yuan per person depending on your seats. Just get the cheap ones, there is not a bad seat in the house. You sit on a huge stage that is set right on the banks of the Li River. After we grabbed our popcorn and iced teas (I love any excuse to consume copious amounts of “corn”) we were set. Suddenly they kill the lights and you are in the pitch dark. You can barely make out the shadows of the Yanghsou mountains surrounding you, the crickets songs get louder as the lights go out, there is a strong feeling of anticipation in the air. Then……a spotlight hits the first performer on a bamboo raft in the middle of the river and she starts singing her song. She had the most beautiful voice.
Then they hit the lights and light up all of the mountains around you in different colors, the crowds goes wild with cheers and clapping, kids are cat calling. What an intro and the show just gets better from there. I won’t spoil it or do it injustice by trying to describe it any further. Anyone coming to China would be foolish not to see this show.
Observation: They must use many old folk songs during this show as many of the audience members were singing along, really adding to the atmosphere. I have noticed that the Chinese love to dance and sing. It is very common to hear workers singing while they work, drive, eat! I guess that is where my sister gets it. Anytime there is music (they seem to really enjoy heavy techno beats here surprisingly, old and young people alike) you will see people just dancing randomly, often with stern faces, it is a riot. We are starting to do it as well.
The director of the light show was also the director of the Olympic Games opening ceremonies. A lot of similarities were apparent between the two performances. Picture the 2008 Opening Ceremonies, but set on the Li River. WOW!
I had been searching for the same rush and feeling I got from the Great Wall since arriving and this show delivered. The magnitude, unity, creativity and beauty are indescribable. The amount of time, effort and skill needed to flawlessly execute this performance is mind blowing. It really gives me a sense that if something like this exists in the world, anything is possible.
After the show we had some more Beer Fish for dinner (I could eat it once a week, will try to re-create it with Salmon or Halibut when I get home) and we were bagged.
April 15, 2009
“Rice Terraces”
This morning we set out for Longsheng. Regretfully, we backed up our bags and we goodbye to Yangshou. Longsheng lived up to my expectations and more. It was breathtaking. The drive to Longsheng is very scenic. You can see rice terraces all along the way, as your vehicle snakes it’s way up the mountain.
I will begin by saying that the drive itself is quite treacherous. The road is very narrow; a lot of sharp/blind corners and most of the steep roads do not have railings to keep your vehicle from plummeting to its demise. Not to mention the good chance of a head on collision. There were definitely a few times I grabbed on to my “oh sh*t handles”. If the weather is not good, I would consider rescheduling, trust me it would be pretty risky. Horse faired very well though and got us there in one piece. It is about a 3-hour drive from Yangshou. We left at 8:30am and got in about 12:00pm with one pee stop. It was worth the long journey. The excursion itself was enjoyable so don’t be discouraged to go to Longsheng because of the long drive, you don’t even notice it with the beautiful scenery in the background.
We had a private guide (which I think is the way to go) but you could take a taxi or a tour bus as well.
We went to the Ping’an village and once we paid an entrance fee we continued to drive another 15 minutes to an even higher village. When arriving you get out and walk your way to the top. It is about a ½ hour hike.
There are people that offer to carry your luggage up……..and if you want there are rickshaw workers that will carry you up as well. Most of the people being carried up were older, but there were a few westerners that were younger that used the service. Shameless in my opinion, but I guess their laziness is someone else’s living. Some of the luggage and human carriers were older than my Grandma! It never ceases to amaze me what people here actually do for a living. It is humbling and very extraordinary. I know for a fact I could not make a living carrying luggage or humans up a steep hill all day at this sort of altitude. The rickshaw operators were charging $180 Yuan per person to the top.
The views on the way up are even more magnificent than the pictures I have seen. Every picture you take is a keeper. You are surrounded by postcard scenery. The best part is you can observe the farmers working the terraces. You can hear the hundreds of streams that run through the town and paddies. The air is even fresher than Yangshou’s; true countryside, virtually untouched and very clean.
When you get to the top the views are just incredible. At the summit we took lots of pics and then kicked back at the local café, had a drink, wrote some postcards……man this is the life. The weather was just perfect, sunny with an occasional breeze. The breeze reminded me of that scene in the movie Fearless, where Jet Li winds up in a village that resembles Longsheng (if you are coming to China I recommend you watch this flick as well as the Last Emperor) and when the breeze comes up all the farmers stop working for that moment and let the breeze re-energize them. As the breeze came up I looked at my surroundings and I stopped walking to enjoy the same gentle wind these farmers have been enjoying for hundreds of years.
I wish we had stayed the night up there but we have to move on. Time is starting to be of the essence. Next time I will stay for sure. There are lots of little hotels and Inns and seemed really safe. Lots of tourists around….all colors, shapes and sizes. The local people were very friendly, not pushy or threatening at all.
Side Note: Because I have heard so may negative stories about China, I came here with my guard up, scared of getting ripped off at every turn. For the most part all the locals have been really good to us. I think sometimes a smile and a “ni hao” go a long way. Of course they are going to try to get some of your tourist money, but in a legitimate manner. Sometimes you pay more than you should. However, even at home if we can charge more for something than less, we do it too. Chinese local people overall are good-hearted, good natured, friendly people. They have been really, really good to us.
Side Note: I am sitting in the car driving back to Guilin and the car is just filled with a wonderful scent from all of the orange trees blossoming around us. China has many different, strong smells, both good and bad.
After we left Longsheng we made our way to Guilin. Yuck, what a contrast. It’s like beauty and the beast. Here is what I have to say about Guilin: don’t bother. If you already have Yangshou, Lijiang or the rice terraces in your itinerary don’t waste your time. Also the people here are not as welcoming. Something about their mannerisms and the way they glare at you. Sorry Guilin, you may be cheap, but money isn’t everything. Off to Guangzhou , Jiangmen tomorrow to visit family I have never met, and check out the village where my great grandfather lived. I am bursting with anticipation and excitement.
Apr 17th, 2009, 09:17 AM
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Hey Jayc/Kiki,
It's your brother! Your trip sounds breathtaking so far! Who knew you were such a deep brother?.....When you were talking about the Great Wall i got goose bumps! I'm glad you two are safe and having a great time. I think you're right when it comes to going anywhere having you guard too far up, I believe it can hinder your experience if you get to carried away. Mind you, I think you and Kirst might have had a bit more love from the locals because you are Chinese. Anyways, I hope you guys keep having fun! Keep up the report.
Sean
It's your brother! Your trip sounds breathtaking so far! Who knew you were such a deep brother?.....When you were talking about the Great Wall i got goose bumps! I'm glad you two are safe and having a great time. I think you're right when it comes to going anywhere having you guard too far up, I believe it can hinder your experience if you get to carried away. Mind you, I think you and Kirst might have had a bit more love from the locals because you are Chinese. Anyways, I hope you guys keep having fun! Keep up the report.
Sean
Apr 17th, 2009, 02:32 PM
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I think that is a great call Burr. China won't know what hit them! We would all have a great time here and we could bring Grandma, she would be very happy. You can eat here off $100 RMD for a week! When we went out for dinner with the whole family 15 people, private dining room, 16 dishes, $500 RMB, unreal. Will have the village post later on today. Leaving for HK now.
Apr 20th, 2009, 09:57 AM
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We remember the Li River Light Show, it was fantastic, a must see for anyone visiting Yangshou. Total different pace of life in HK, tall buildings, construction happening everywhere, hustle and bustle of people. Everyone seems to be in a rush to do or go somewhere. Have fun. Can't wait to read more.
Apr 20th, 2009, 09:55 PM
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April 16, 2009
“Gone Buoy! (Cheers!)”
We flew from Guilin to Guangzhou and then made our way to Jiangmen by cab ($320 Yuan) about an hour and a half drive. My relatives met us at the airport so they could make the journey with us. We hit it off right away. They are really nice people.
We checked in to Yucca Hotel. My family got us a fantastic rate $400 Yuan and it is the first 5 star Hotel on our trip. It’s a real
treat to finally be in nice hotel. Yucca Hotel is very grand. Its got a massive lobby and every amenity (shopping malls, 6 restaurants, tennis courts, spa, night club, two swimming pools) really, really nice. Hotels I have stayed at in the past of this caliber would have been ten times the price!
After a afternoon nap, our relatives came and picked us up and took us out for dinner. I guess when you go out for dinner in China with a big group you get your own room and server. My experience with big family dinners in Canada has always consisted of seafood (lobster, crab, shark fin) very pretentious dishes but not in Jiangmen. All of the dishes my relatives ordered were dishes of peasant food, stuff my Grandma had been cooking for since I was born. There was braised pork belly, goose, lotus root, spinach, steamed chicken, each dish was one I enjoyed and enjoyed eating very much. Best part only $500 Yuan to buy dinner. A song for how mush food we got. Man I love this country!
The relatives were pretty surprised that I had eaten everything they ordered before but I guess they failed to realize that I have been eating my Grandmas cooking since I was young. We do not have royal bloodlines, we are a family of peasants and that is probably why I can relate (and enjoy this food) more than the pretentious kind.
After a great dinner we went back to my relatives house for drinks. I was very impressed with how large and beautiful their homes were. Very nicely renovated, well furnished, in fact my Aunt even had a media room complete with 100 inch projection screen! I also discovered that night that my Uncle is very talented. He is a Chinese opera singer and a very famous Calligrapher (artist). He gave us some beautiful works of his art and after way too many drinks (I was not used to the Chinese Wine, we call it cooking wine back home, no matter what you do, don’t touch this stuff) they took us home. They were great people, my kind of people, loud, boisterous, and down to earth. I really enjoyed their company.
April 17, 2009
“I think it was the mountain meat”
The next day my Uncle picked us up at 9:00am as were going to head to the village where my Great Grandfathers old house (technically speaking I guess it is my house now) is and where my Uncle had grown up. I have heard many stories from my Grandma about “heng ha” (village) and was very excited to go.
Along the way we stopped at a local village retail store to buy some supplies as we were also going to visit my ancestors gravesite. I didn’t realize there were so many things to purchase in order to do it. It was a very big production. We bought incents, firecrackers, paper money, paper gold, candles, booze, apples, tea eggs, a whole roasted suckling pig, sugar cane, bread, chopsticks, oranges everything you would need for a big picnic.
On the way to the gravesite we picked up three other relatives that still resided in the village. Local farmers. When we arrived we had to actually hike up a mountain about 10 minutes and the gravesite was located in the most random, but very beautiful spot, in the middle of nowhere. The graves themselves were not headstones, but just basically piles of dirt with smaller piles on top to symbolize each person that has passed away. I asked my Uncle how often they come here and he said once a year and this year they delayed it to wait for us to go, I was honored. The three relatives we picked up along the way had come a few days previously and landscaped the gravesite. I guess after a year the site becomes over grown with weeds and grass. They had done a great job. It looked really good (as good as a grave site can I guess, I have nothing to compare it to really).
We laid some mats on the ground and began to set the meal up for our ancestors to enjoy. We set each person that had passed chopsticks, a small cup of rice wine and laid all the food in front of the mounds of dirt. We then stuck candles and incents in the mounds of dirt (in threes for some reason), poured out the liquor on to ground, put our hands together and kowtowed to them.
Next we started burning the paper gold and money to ensure our ancestors had plenty to spend in heaven. Next came the firecrackers (personally was my favorite part). I remember when I was young I used to love playing with firecrackers. I was obsessed with them at Halloween. Never in my life would I have thought it appropriate to light packs of firecrackers and throw them on top of my ancestor’s burial plots as a sign of respect. Could you imagine going to the graveyard in North America armed with firecrackers, lighting them and then throwing them at the gravestones? You might get arrested LOL!
After the ceremony it was time to eat the food that we had brought. I had observed many flies and insects landing around and on our food we were about to consume (not to mention the food had been baking in the hot sun for two hours out in the open), but when my Uncle started cutting up the pig and handed me a piece what was I going to do, say no? Sometimes you just have to go with it, when in Rome…I knew from the moment I started eating I was going to pay for it later. It was quite a scene. Here is my Uncle hacking off pieces of pork and passing it around, here I am with sugar cane in one hand, a massive piece of pork in the other, everyone was eating making all sorts of noise and the best part, just discarding our garbage on the ground, we were like starved barbarians, it was awesome!
Not only were we blowing up firecrackers at my ancestor’s site, now we were stuffing our faces with food and then just littering our garbage right there on the ground. If westerners could just see this scene they would probably be shaking their heads LOL but I guess every culture has their quirky traditions. I have never had so much fun “bai san” (visiting ancestors gravesite) before.
After we left the gravesite is was time to go visit our family home. When we first arrived it was very emotional for me. As I walked in to the home you could still see remnants of my ancestors that had lived there before. Farming equipment, pictures hung on the walls, bed frames, the bathroom pot was still there. I was actually very surprised and shocked at how beautiful the home was. The finishing’s were very detailed and it even had wood trim (crown moldings) throughout. Although it was in very rough shape (wear and tear) I could see that when Chan Sing had this house built ,it was one of the nicest in the whole village. Two levels complete with sundeck! Standing inside the house made this trip all worth it. As a person I really believe to move forward in life it is important to know who you really are, and where you came from. I have a new found appreciation for my Chinese roots, Chinese relatives and my village.
After the house we walked around the village for a bit. I was pleasantly surprised at how beautiful my village actually is. I thought that I would not see any beauty in it and that it was going to be gross and dirty (don’t ask me why) but in fact it was quite the opposite. I loved being there and could actually see myself living there in another life. My Uncle on the other hand seemed to just want to get out of there. I guess when you spend your life trying to get out of somewhere, going back has a different meaning and feeling for you. After we walked around our local village we went back to my relatives house for some tea and fruit. In there yard they had a Guava tree and my Uncle picked one for me immediately and said I should try some. I should have known better when it was rinsed off with tap water not to eat it, but I couldn’t resist. It was delicious.
The only problem is that if you do the crime, you are going to do the time. After eating copious amounts of mountain meat (it was so good I had four helpings) and then finishing it off with fresh Guava right off the tree rinsed with local tap water, I spent the next ten hours on and off the toilet LOL. I could hear my doctor back at home going “you idiot” but sometimes in life we all must make sacrifices in order to enjoy experiences to the fullest. My butt and tummy may be a bit sore, but it was worth and I would do it again LOL. Some experiences are just priceless.
“Gone Buoy! (Cheers!)”
We flew from Guilin to Guangzhou and then made our way to Jiangmen by cab ($320 Yuan) about an hour and a half drive. My relatives met us at the airport so they could make the journey with us. We hit it off right away. They are really nice people.
We checked in to Yucca Hotel. My family got us a fantastic rate $400 Yuan and it is the first 5 star Hotel on our trip. It’s a real
treat to finally be in nice hotel. Yucca Hotel is very grand. Its got a massive lobby and every amenity (shopping malls, 6 restaurants, tennis courts, spa, night club, two swimming pools) really, really nice. Hotels I have stayed at in the past of this caliber would have been ten times the price!
After a afternoon nap, our relatives came and picked us up and took us out for dinner. I guess when you go out for dinner in China with a big group you get your own room and server. My experience with big family dinners in Canada has always consisted of seafood (lobster, crab, shark fin) very pretentious dishes but not in Jiangmen. All of the dishes my relatives ordered were dishes of peasant food, stuff my Grandma had been cooking for since I was born. There was braised pork belly, goose, lotus root, spinach, steamed chicken, each dish was one I enjoyed and enjoyed eating very much. Best part only $500 Yuan to buy dinner. A song for how mush food we got. Man I love this country!
The relatives were pretty surprised that I had eaten everything they ordered before but I guess they failed to realize that I have been eating my Grandmas cooking since I was young. We do not have royal bloodlines, we are a family of peasants and that is probably why I can relate (and enjoy this food) more than the pretentious kind.
After a great dinner we went back to my relatives house for drinks. I was very impressed with how large and beautiful their homes were. Very nicely renovated, well furnished, in fact my Aunt even had a media room complete with 100 inch projection screen! I also discovered that night that my Uncle is very talented. He is a Chinese opera singer and a very famous Calligrapher (artist). He gave us some beautiful works of his art and after way too many drinks (I was not used to the Chinese Wine, we call it cooking wine back home, no matter what you do, don’t touch this stuff) they took us home. They were great people, my kind of people, loud, boisterous, and down to earth. I really enjoyed their company.
April 17, 2009
“I think it was the mountain meat”
The next day my Uncle picked us up at 9:00am as were going to head to the village where my Great Grandfathers old house (technically speaking I guess it is my house now) is and where my Uncle had grown up. I have heard many stories from my Grandma about “heng ha” (village) and was very excited to go.
Along the way we stopped at a local village retail store to buy some supplies as we were also going to visit my ancestors gravesite. I didn’t realize there were so many things to purchase in order to do it. It was a very big production. We bought incents, firecrackers, paper money, paper gold, candles, booze, apples, tea eggs, a whole roasted suckling pig, sugar cane, bread, chopsticks, oranges everything you would need for a big picnic.
On the way to the gravesite we picked up three other relatives that still resided in the village. Local farmers. When we arrived we had to actually hike up a mountain about 10 minutes and the gravesite was located in the most random, but very beautiful spot, in the middle of nowhere. The graves themselves were not headstones, but just basically piles of dirt with smaller piles on top to symbolize each person that has passed away. I asked my Uncle how often they come here and he said once a year and this year they delayed it to wait for us to go, I was honored. The three relatives we picked up along the way had come a few days previously and landscaped the gravesite. I guess after a year the site becomes over grown with weeds and grass. They had done a great job. It looked really good (as good as a grave site can I guess, I have nothing to compare it to really).
We laid some mats on the ground and began to set the meal up for our ancestors to enjoy. We set each person that had passed chopsticks, a small cup of rice wine and laid all the food in front of the mounds of dirt. We then stuck candles and incents in the mounds of dirt (in threes for some reason), poured out the liquor on to ground, put our hands together and kowtowed to them.
Next we started burning the paper gold and money to ensure our ancestors had plenty to spend in heaven. Next came the firecrackers (personally was my favorite part). I remember when I was young I used to love playing with firecrackers. I was obsessed with them at Halloween. Never in my life would I have thought it appropriate to light packs of firecrackers and throw them on top of my ancestor’s burial plots as a sign of respect. Could you imagine going to the graveyard in North America armed with firecrackers, lighting them and then throwing them at the gravestones? You might get arrested LOL!
After the ceremony it was time to eat the food that we had brought. I had observed many flies and insects landing around and on our food we were about to consume (not to mention the food had been baking in the hot sun for two hours out in the open), but when my Uncle started cutting up the pig and handed me a piece what was I going to do, say no? Sometimes you just have to go with it, when in Rome…I knew from the moment I started eating I was going to pay for it later. It was quite a scene. Here is my Uncle hacking off pieces of pork and passing it around, here I am with sugar cane in one hand, a massive piece of pork in the other, everyone was eating making all sorts of noise and the best part, just discarding our garbage on the ground, we were like starved barbarians, it was awesome!
Not only were we blowing up firecrackers at my ancestor’s site, now we were stuffing our faces with food and then just littering our garbage right there on the ground. If westerners could just see this scene they would probably be shaking their heads LOL but I guess every culture has their quirky traditions. I have never had so much fun “bai san” (visiting ancestors gravesite) before.
After we left the gravesite is was time to go visit our family home. When we first arrived it was very emotional for me. As I walked in to the home you could still see remnants of my ancestors that had lived there before. Farming equipment, pictures hung on the walls, bed frames, the bathroom pot was still there. I was actually very surprised and shocked at how beautiful the home was. The finishing’s were very detailed and it even had wood trim (crown moldings) throughout. Although it was in very rough shape (wear and tear) I could see that when Chan Sing had this house built ,it was one of the nicest in the whole village. Two levels complete with sundeck! Standing inside the house made this trip all worth it. As a person I really believe to move forward in life it is important to know who you really are, and where you came from. I have a new found appreciation for my Chinese roots, Chinese relatives and my village.
After the house we walked around the village for a bit. I was pleasantly surprised at how beautiful my village actually is. I thought that I would not see any beauty in it and that it was going to be gross and dirty (don’t ask me why) but in fact it was quite the opposite. I loved being there and could actually see myself living there in another life. My Uncle on the other hand seemed to just want to get out of there. I guess when you spend your life trying to get out of somewhere, going back has a different meaning and feeling for you. After we walked around our local village we went back to my relatives house for some tea and fruit. In there yard they had a Guava tree and my Uncle picked one for me immediately and said I should try some. I should have known better when it was rinsed off with tap water not to eat it, but I couldn’t resist. It was delicious.
The only problem is that if you do the crime, you are going to do the time. After eating copious amounts of mountain meat (it was so good I had four helpings) and then finishing it off with fresh Guava right off the tree rinsed with local tap water, I spent the next ten hours on and off the toilet LOL. I could hear my doctor back at home going “you idiot” but sometimes in life we all must make sacrifices in order to enjoy experiences to the fullest. My butt and tummy may be a bit sore, but it was worth and I would do it again LOL. Some experiences are just priceless.
