Chasing Colors in Japan: A November 2023 Trip
Nov 18th, 2023, 02:51 AM
#81
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We are currently in Kyoto as well and the crowds are indeed pretty bad. We walked through Myoshin-ji Temple grounds at the end of the day today and it was free of tourists completely. Ryoanji, Kinkaku-Ji and the Imperial Palace were packed. I wish I had the opportunity to experience Kyoto before excessive tourism was a thing but I guess I am contributing to it now too...Not sure what's the solution but the problem is real.It's impossible to describe any of these sites as serene.
Nov 18th, 2023, 03:54 AM
#82
Thank you for continuing your journey with us! I’m also amazed at how much ground you cover! I envy your energy!
I had been reading for a while about the crowds in Kyoto, and don’t enjoy experiencing places when they are packed. We made the decision to simply avoid big crowds so chose not to visit many of the very popular places, especially since we aren’t early risers or go out late. We may not have seen the biggest sights but had a wonderful time seeing some of the lesser known sights and exploring the city at a slower pace.
I had been reading for a while about the crowds in Kyoto, and don’t enjoy experiencing places when they are packed. We made the decision to simply avoid big crowds so chose not to visit many of the very popular places, especially since we aren’t early risers or go out late. We may not have seen the biggest sights but had a wonderful time seeing some of the lesser known sights and exploring the city at a slower pace.
Last edited by progol; Nov 18th, 2023 at 04:08 AM.
Nov 18th, 2023, 04:07 AM
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We have just made that same decision! Two days of this and I am ready to give up the top sites for some peace and quiet. Thus, I am sitting in the room, re-planning tomorrow. We too aren't the early-risers and nothing will change that, esp. not on vacation.
Nov 18th, 2023, 05:54 AM
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yestravel, glad to hear that you managed to dodge the crowds. I quickly fell in love with Kyoto during our first visit in 2012, and hoped to rediscover the joy of the city. However, our experience was bad enough yesterday that we thought perhaps Kyoto is not for us anymore. My affection for Kyoto returned today.
mjs, happy to learn that your daughter is better. I agree with you that the overcrowding has grown worse in recent years. However, we learned today that it is still possible to go off the beaten path.
curiousgeo, thanks for the recommendation. We're in Kyoto for another 20 or so minutes.
ak_rc, read my post from today below. Hopefully I've given you some ideas.
progol, I agree with you. And we were able to find peace in Kyoto once again.
Losing the Crowds
We began our third day in Kyoto by venturing off the beaten path. We spent our morning in the northeastern and eastern parts of the city visiting three uniquely interesting temples: Enko-ji, Konkai Komyo-ji, and Shinsho Gokuraku-ji. Each of these temples only receive a fraction of the visitors who visit Kyoto's star temples - and none of these are any less impressive. Enko-ji is one of the few temples that offers early admissions via advance reservations during koyo season, and we were fortunate enough to secure permission several weeks ago. In several ways, Enko-ji is unique. We immediately noticed the manicured pine trees that line the path from the gate up to the main building and the stone and rock garden out front. We enjoyed the stone and rock garden as much as the sea of sand at Ginkaku-ji. We then toured the buildings, enjoying the artwork. We gazed at the verdant green gardens from the verandah, admiring the moss-covered setting. We walked up the trail through a bamboo forest to the top of the hill, from where we could enjoy vistas of the temple from above, a part of the Kyoto city skyline, and the nearby mountains. While it was cold and brisk this morning, the skies were clear.
From Enko-ji, we travelled by taxi to Kondai Komyo-ji, more commonly known as Kurodani, not far from the Philosophers' Path. Like Enko-ji, Kurodani offered visitors special access to parts of the temple complex that are normally closed to visitors. We visited the main temple building, viewed statues of Buddha and other deities that were normally off-limits to the public. A highlight of the residence was a series of screen paintings featuring life-like images of tigers. The massive wooden gate leading up to the temple, the Mountain Gate, was also open to visitors. From up top, we enjoyed views of the temple rooftops, the Higashiyama skyline, and the surrounding mountains.
A short 5-minute walk through the cemetery in the back led us to Shinsho Gokuraku-ji, more commonly referred to as Shinnyo-do. This includes an exquisite mandala depicting the Buddha, two bodhisattvas, and religious stories weaved using gold thread, as well as a statue made of wood with gold leaf. We enjoyed walking around the residential quarters and sitting on the tatami mats contemplating the garden scenery outside, all without the cacophony of lots of tourists streaming through.
From here we hopped in a taxi for a crosstown trip to Kokodera or Saiho-ji, also known as the Moss Temple. Admission is by advanced reservation only and we secured our space a few weeks in advance. At the appointed time, we checked in and were given instructions and a passage of Buddhist sutra or scripture to copy. We then said a short prayer to Buddha and continued on to the moss garden. We circumnavigated the garden, where we saw multiple hues of green moss cover the ground. The garden features all the elements of a Japanese garden, along with a handful of maple trees at peak.
Our last stop of the day was Katsura Imperial Villa, one of the properties belonging to the Japanese monarchy. Also an advanced reservations attraction, we secured our tickets three months in advance, as soon as tickets were available. The small-group, one-hour guided tour was very enjoyable. We walked around much of the property, stopping at different points to view the lake with its many features, the residence, and teahouses surrounding the lake.
After our tour of Katsura, we took a local train back to downtown Kyoto. Dinner tonight was at Motoi, a Michelin-starred restaurant. The 12-course dinner offered a culinary journey that us from Hong Kong with its crispy roast pork to China with its major tofu to French lobster and Japanese fish and wagyu beef. The meal also featured seasonal ingredients such as persimmons and chestnuts, both items we love. We visited Nijo Castle after dinner for its digital art exhibition, Naked Flowers. We expected something like what we saw in Kanazawa Castle, but this show is much more muted.
mjs, happy to learn that your daughter is better. I agree with you that the overcrowding has grown worse in recent years. However, we learned today that it is still possible to go off the beaten path.
curiousgeo, thanks for the recommendation. We're in Kyoto for another 20 or so minutes.
ak_rc, read my post from today below. Hopefully I've given you some ideas.
progol, I agree with you. And we were able to find peace in Kyoto once again.
Losing the Crowds
We began our third day in Kyoto by venturing off the beaten path. We spent our morning in the northeastern and eastern parts of the city visiting three uniquely interesting temples: Enko-ji, Konkai Komyo-ji, and Shinsho Gokuraku-ji. Each of these temples only receive a fraction of the visitors who visit Kyoto's star temples - and none of these are any less impressive. Enko-ji is one of the few temples that offers early admissions via advance reservations during koyo season, and we were fortunate enough to secure permission several weeks ago. In several ways, Enko-ji is unique. We immediately noticed the manicured pine trees that line the path from the gate up to the main building and the stone and rock garden out front. We enjoyed the stone and rock garden as much as the sea of sand at Ginkaku-ji. We then toured the buildings, enjoying the artwork. We gazed at the verdant green gardens from the verandah, admiring the moss-covered setting. We walked up the trail through a bamboo forest to the top of the hill, from where we could enjoy vistas of the temple from above, a part of the Kyoto city skyline, and the nearby mountains. While it was cold and brisk this morning, the skies were clear.
From Enko-ji, we travelled by taxi to Kondai Komyo-ji, more commonly known as Kurodani, not far from the Philosophers' Path. Like Enko-ji, Kurodani offered visitors special access to parts of the temple complex that are normally closed to visitors. We visited the main temple building, viewed statues of Buddha and other deities that were normally off-limits to the public. A highlight of the residence was a series of screen paintings featuring life-like images of tigers. The massive wooden gate leading up to the temple, the Mountain Gate, was also open to visitors. From up top, we enjoyed views of the temple rooftops, the Higashiyama skyline, and the surrounding mountains.
A short 5-minute walk through the cemetery in the back led us to Shinsho Gokuraku-ji, more commonly referred to as Shinnyo-do. This includes an exquisite mandala depicting the Buddha, two bodhisattvas, and religious stories weaved using gold thread, as well as a statue made of wood with gold leaf. We enjoyed walking around the residential quarters and sitting on the tatami mats contemplating the garden scenery outside, all without the cacophony of lots of tourists streaming through.
From here we hopped in a taxi for a crosstown trip to Kokodera or Saiho-ji, also known as the Moss Temple. Admission is by advanced reservation only and we secured our space a few weeks in advance. At the appointed time, we checked in and were given instructions and a passage of Buddhist sutra or scripture to copy. We then said a short prayer to Buddha and continued on to the moss garden. We circumnavigated the garden, where we saw multiple hues of green moss cover the ground. The garden features all the elements of a Japanese garden, along with a handful of maple trees at peak.
Our last stop of the day was Katsura Imperial Villa, one of the properties belonging to the Japanese monarchy. Also an advanced reservations attraction, we secured our tickets three months in advance, as soon as tickets were available. The small-group, one-hour guided tour was very enjoyable. We walked around much of the property, stopping at different points to view the lake with its many features, the residence, and teahouses surrounding the lake.
After our tour of Katsura, we took a local train back to downtown Kyoto. Dinner tonight was at Motoi, a Michelin-starred restaurant. The 12-course dinner offered a culinary journey that us from Hong Kong with its crispy roast pork to China with its major tofu to French lobster and Japanese fish and wagyu beef. The meal also featured seasonal ingredients such as persimmons and chestnuts, both items we love. We visited Nijo Castle after dinner for its digital art exhibition, Naked Flowers. We expected something like what we saw in Kanazawa Castle, but this show is much more muted.
Nov 19th, 2023, 04:30 AM
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We were almost at the door this morning with a totally different plan for the day when I saw that tripplanner001 responded with the latest update. I quickly read it, it sounded like something we would absolutely enjoy so we quickly pivoted. We took the bus to Konkai Komyo-ji, from there we walked to Shinsho Gokuraku-ji through a cemetery and the very quiet and pleasant streets. After we toured Shinsho we walked to the Philospher's Path, had a quick lunch and coffee and then we walked to Enko-ji . Area we walked through was completely tourists free and very quiet. It was interesting to see residential area with different styles of houses. When we arrived to Enko-ji we were asked for tickets which we didn't pre-book even though they were available when I looked for them this morning. The monk at the entry told us to wait (we didn't know for what). I quickly looked on the phone and tickets were available for 4pm entry but that was 2:15pm. I was hoping we won't need to wait and surely, he told us to come in and buy the tickets sooner after. Enko-ji was quite busy with Asian visitors. We quite enjoyed the complex, it's indeed unique and beautiful. Despite the number of people there, it wasn't as crowded as more popular sites.
From there we took the bus to Kyoto Station and then boarded JR train to Uno Station - the station was completed in 1991, by the architect Hiroyuki Wakabayashi (born in Kyoto in 1949; he was awarded for this work). I am interested in the so-called Brutalist architecture and wanted to see this work in person.
All in all, it was a good day.
From there we took the bus to Kyoto Station and then boarded JR train to Uno Station - the station was completed in 1991, by the architect Hiroyuki Wakabayashi (born in Kyoto in 1949; he was awarded for this work). I am interested in the so-called Brutalist architecture and wanted to see this work in person.
All in all, it was a good day.
Nov 20th, 2023, 05:21 AM
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yestravel, thank you. We're glad we had at least one day free of crowds.
ak_rc, glad my report was of immediate use to you.
Vermilion, Green, and Red
Fushimi Inari Shrine needs no introduction. Everyone here has seen photographs of the numerous vermilion red torii gates in succession. While there are numerous Shinto shrines with lots of torii gates in Japan, almost all of those featured on travel guidebooks and videos are of Fushimi Inari Shrine in southern Kyoto. It's also one of Kyoto's star attractions. Despite having visited Kyoto previously, we had not made it to Fushimi Inari - so today's the day. We left our hotel a little after 7:00 and arrived at the shrine by 7:45, hoping to beat the tourist crush. We visited the main gate, watched a Shinto priest perform a few religious rituals at the main shrine, and climbed up to Mt. Inari. The precinct around the main shrine is similar to all the other Shinto shrines we've visited in Japan. The journey through successive torii gates was punctuated by shrines dedicated to Inari, a fox god, along the way. There were places for breaks as well, and we enjoyed some snacks in between while relaxing and absorbing our surroundings. Near the top were good views of the city too. Because of our leisurely pace, it took us four hours at Inari even though we could have completed it in three.
Following our visit to Fushimi Inari Shrine, we continued south to Uji, known for its green tea and home to Byodo-in. We enjoyed a lunch of matcha udon close by the JR Station and visited Byodo-in. We walked in the garden, visited the museum, and viewed the large Buddha inside the Phoenix Hall. We also strolled on the riverside promenade with its bridges and browsed some of the shops selling items made with matcha.
We then returned to Kyoto, where we visited Eikan-do for its evening illuminations. While there were substantial crowds, we had a good time with the carnival-like atmosphere. Only a fraction of the maple trees have peaked, but the ones that did were eye-catching. We also enjoyed the ones that are in various stages of changing colors. The main hall of the temple was also open for prayer and visiting. We had also wanted to visit other temples but time wasn't on our side.
In spite of our five nights in Kyoto, we didn't manage to complete everything that was on our agenda. There's just so much to see, do, and experience in the city not to even mention the surrounding areas. All in all, Kyoto left a mixed impression on us on this visit. While our love for Kyoto is the reason why we returned to Japan, tourism in the city seems to have increased several times fold since our last visit in 2012. Part of it may be due to the time of year, as koyo season ranks behind hanami season as one of the busiest periods of the year for the city. Even though we were travelling independently, at time we felt like we were part of a package tour as large groups were in most places that we visited, even at some of the less popular stops. We're not sure that Kyoto will make it on our list for our next visit to Japan. When we do, we hope undiscovered gems remain.
Castle and Garden
We left Kyoto early this morning, bound for Kurashiki, our home for the next three nights. Before Kurashiki, we stopped in Himeji for a visit to its world-famous castle. Spared from bombs during World War II, Himeji Castle is one of the 12 original castles that remain today. Himeji is less than an hour away from Kyoto by Shinkansen, and the castle is about a 20-minute walk from the train station.
We spent three hours touring the castle, visiting is six-story main keep as well as its western ramparts. We enjoyed the fine details of the castle, from the tiger-fish statues atop the high-sloping roofs, the family-crest decorations on the tiles, the interlocking wooden beams, and the features of the windows used for defense. The castle tower offered fantastic views of the rest of the castle compound as well as parts of the city of Himeji it overlooks.
We also took a stroll at Koko-en next door. While small compared to the more famous gardens all around Japan, Koko-en was very enjoyable. We were immediately drawn to the various water features located all around the garden, from waterfalls to ponds. A good number of the trees were sporting bright red leaves too, even though we weren't anticipating it. Like the castle, the garden was busy with a high volume of visitors. The visit was nonetheless enjoyable.
Our accommodations in Kurashiki is the Ryokan Kurashiki. It is our only stay at a ryokan and our splurge for this trip. The ryokan is located in the Bikan Historical Quarter with its atmosphere white buildings and tree-lined canal. Included in the price of accommodations are breakfast and dinner. Tonight's dinner was a kaiseki featuring seasonal autumn dishes - very good.
ak_rc, glad my report was of immediate use to you.
Vermilion, Green, and Red
Fushimi Inari Shrine needs no introduction. Everyone here has seen photographs of the numerous vermilion red torii gates in succession. While there are numerous Shinto shrines with lots of torii gates in Japan, almost all of those featured on travel guidebooks and videos are of Fushimi Inari Shrine in southern Kyoto. It's also one of Kyoto's star attractions. Despite having visited Kyoto previously, we had not made it to Fushimi Inari - so today's the day. We left our hotel a little after 7:00 and arrived at the shrine by 7:45, hoping to beat the tourist crush. We visited the main gate, watched a Shinto priest perform a few religious rituals at the main shrine, and climbed up to Mt. Inari. The precinct around the main shrine is similar to all the other Shinto shrines we've visited in Japan. The journey through successive torii gates was punctuated by shrines dedicated to Inari, a fox god, along the way. There were places for breaks as well, and we enjoyed some snacks in between while relaxing and absorbing our surroundings. Near the top were good views of the city too. Because of our leisurely pace, it took us four hours at Inari even though we could have completed it in three.
Following our visit to Fushimi Inari Shrine, we continued south to Uji, known for its green tea and home to Byodo-in. We enjoyed a lunch of matcha udon close by the JR Station and visited Byodo-in. We walked in the garden, visited the museum, and viewed the large Buddha inside the Phoenix Hall. We also strolled on the riverside promenade with its bridges and browsed some of the shops selling items made with matcha.
We then returned to Kyoto, where we visited Eikan-do for its evening illuminations. While there were substantial crowds, we had a good time with the carnival-like atmosphere. Only a fraction of the maple trees have peaked, but the ones that did were eye-catching. We also enjoyed the ones that are in various stages of changing colors. The main hall of the temple was also open for prayer and visiting. We had also wanted to visit other temples but time wasn't on our side.
In spite of our five nights in Kyoto, we didn't manage to complete everything that was on our agenda. There's just so much to see, do, and experience in the city not to even mention the surrounding areas. All in all, Kyoto left a mixed impression on us on this visit. While our love for Kyoto is the reason why we returned to Japan, tourism in the city seems to have increased several times fold since our last visit in 2012. Part of it may be due to the time of year, as koyo season ranks behind hanami season as one of the busiest periods of the year for the city. Even though we were travelling independently, at time we felt like we were part of a package tour as large groups were in most places that we visited, even at some of the less popular stops. We're not sure that Kyoto will make it on our list for our next visit to Japan. When we do, we hope undiscovered gems remain.
Castle and Garden
We left Kyoto early this morning, bound for Kurashiki, our home for the next three nights. Before Kurashiki, we stopped in Himeji for a visit to its world-famous castle. Spared from bombs during World War II, Himeji Castle is one of the 12 original castles that remain today. Himeji is less than an hour away from Kyoto by Shinkansen, and the castle is about a 20-minute walk from the train station.
We spent three hours touring the castle, visiting is six-story main keep as well as its western ramparts. We enjoyed the fine details of the castle, from the tiger-fish statues atop the high-sloping roofs, the family-crest decorations on the tiles, the interlocking wooden beams, and the features of the windows used for defense. The castle tower offered fantastic views of the rest of the castle compound as well as parts of the city of Himeji it overlooks.
We also took a stroll at Koko-en next door. While small compared to the more famous gardens all around Japan, Koko-en was very enjoyable. We were immediately drawn to the various water features located all around the garden, from waterfalls to ponds. A good number of the trees were sporting bright red leaves too, even though we weren't anticipating it. Like the castle, the garden was busy with a high volume of visitors. The visit was nonetheless enjoyable.
Our accommodations in Kurashiki is the Ryokan Kurashiki. It is our only stay at a ryokan and our splurge for this trip. The ryokan is located in the Bikan Historical Quarter with its atmosphere white buildings and tree-lined canal. Included in the price of accommodations are breakfast and dinner. Tonight's dinner was a kaiseki featuring seasonal autumn dishes - very good.
Nov 20th, 2023, 08:41 AM
#90
tp, I’m now back at home and struggling to adjust to the current time zone. I’m still enjoying your trip report and am very glad you rekindled your love for Kyoto.
I’m envious that you had the energy do and see so much as I know we didn’t see more than a tiny bit that Kyoto has to offer. Still, we came away with a wonderful feeling for the city and found ourselves in less busy places for the most part.
We also enjoyed the Moss Temple very much. Our hotel (Mume) had recommended it and secured the reservations for us for a Sunday. It was a lovely and serene place - copying (really, tracing) the sutra and then wandering and pondering the peaceful garden. We both enjoyed it a lot. We then walked to a local Shinto shrine, Matsunoo-Taisha shrine, where we watched the many families celebrating events - many 3,5, 7 year olds dressed up for the rite of passage, a bride getting photographed- it had a very local feel and we felt very lucky to be there.
Thank you for posting as you go - I’m only sorry I didn’t get to benefit from your travel experience in Japan!
I’m envious that you had the energy do and see so much as I know we didn’t see more than a tiny bit that Kyoto has to offer. Still, we came away with a wonderful feeling for the city and found ourselves in less busy places for the most part.
We also enjoyed the Moss Temple very much. Our hotel (Mume) had recommended it and secured the reservations for us for a Sunday. It was a lovely and serene place - copying (really, tracing) the sutra and then wandering and pondering the peaceful garden. We both enjoyed it a lot. We then walked to a local Shinto shrine, Matsunoo-Taisha shrine, where we watched the many families celebrating events - many 3,5, 7 year olds dressed up for the rite of passage, a bride getting photographed- it had a very local feel and we felt very lucky to be there.
Thank you for posting as you go - I’m only sorry I didn’t get to benefit from your travel experience in Japan!
Nov 20th, 2023, 05:45 PM
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We are about to leave the Westin Tokyo for Narita and home. Have my 25 inch suitcase which I rarely use full of Japanese foodstuffs with our clothes in my old Army duffel bag. Have sandwiches courtesy of Joel Robuchon for our airline meals. If we were flying out of HND I would have considered a sushi bento box but sushi does not hold up well to hours of room temperature. Wish we had more time but scheduled to work tomorrow. Best wishes for the rest of your trip!
Nov 21st, 2023, 05:58 AM
#92
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yestravel, the ryokan is comfortable and is a cross between the two machiyas we've stayed at (in Kanazawa and in Takayama) and a fuller-service hotel. Still not getting used to the low furniture though.
progol, thank you. I'm glad you came away with good memories of Kyoto and of Japan in general. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter how many things you do. If you saw or did one thing and that's your memory of the place, it's already a positive.
mjs, safe travel home. I can relate on the Japanese food. There's more food to bring home than any other type of souvenir, so it's hard to avoid - especially when what is available are attractive and tastes just as good.
Another Castle and Garden
We ate a delicious breakfast spread at our ryokan and ventured out to explore what this corner of Japan had to offer. We traveled by train from Kurashiki to Okayama, home to Koraku-en, one of what is considered to be the most beautiful gardens in Japan. Koraku-en features a large lawn and pond in the center of the garden. Displayed on the lawn are numerous Japanese paper umbrellas. Koraku-en uses the surrounding landscape to enhance its garden, borrowing from the nearby mountains and such to create the perception of a much more expansive garden. Today was the perfect weather day for a stroll in the garden, at 65 and sunny. While we found the visit enjoyable, I prefer Kenroku-en in Kanazawa to Koraku-en, as it was more interesting and offered more landscape variety.
From there we exited the gardens via the south gate and entered Okayama Castle. Also known as the Crow Castle, much of it was destroyed during the Second World War and reconstructed. The interior is fully modern construction and laid out as any museum. There is little by way of artifacts and mostly text, with most of it exclusively in Japanese only. As such, we didn't spend much time there.
We ate lunch at Kitchen Horiguchi, near the castle. The restaurant specializes in kaarage (fried chicken thighs). The chicken came with shredded cabbage, rice, pickles, and miso soup. The chicken was juicy and the coating was crispy - delicious.
We returned to Kurashiki after lunch, and hung out around the Bikan district, home to a collection of preserved buildings going back a couple of centuries. Formerly used as residences, businesses, and storehouses for rice, cotton, and other commodities, the buildings are being used as museums, restaurants, cafes, and shops. We visited the Ohara home as well as the Museum of Folk Craft, which showcases a collection of local items such as dishware, carpets, baskets, etc. Both sites were worthwhile, as well as simply wandering among the canals. A large art museum, the Ohara Museum of Art, is also here; we didn't have time for it.
All in all, we did not find Okayama a worthwhile stop. Done over, we would have skipped it.
progol, thank you. I'm glad you came away with good memories of Kyoto and of Japan in general. At the end of the day, it doesn't matter how many things you do. If you saw or did one thing and that's your memory of the place, it's already a positive.
mjs, safe travel home. I can relate on the Japanese food. There's more food to bring home than any other type of souvenir, so it's hard to avoid - especially when what is available are attractive and tastes just as good.
Another Castle and Garden
We ate a delicious breakfast spread at our ryokan and ventured out to explore what this corner of Japan had to offer. We traveled by train from Kurashiki to Okayama, home to Koraku-en, one of what is considered to be the most beautiful gardens in Japan. Koraku-en features a large lawn and pond in the center of the garden. Displayed on the lawn are numerous Japanese paper umbrellas. Koraku-en uses the surrounding landscape to enhance its garden, borrowing from the nearby mountains and such to create the perception of a much more expansive garden. Today was the perfect weather day for a stroll in the garden, at 65 and sunny. While we found the visit enjoyable, I prefer Kenroku-en in Kanazawa to Koraku-en, as it was more interesting and offered more landscape variety.
From there we exited the gardens via the south gate and entered Okayama Castle. Also known as the Crow Castle, much of it was destroyed during the Second World War and reconstructed. The interior is fully modern construction and laid out as any museum. There is little by way of artifacts and mostly text, with most of it exclusively in Japanese only. As such, we didn't spend much time there.
We ate lunch at Kitchen Horiguchi, near the castle. The restaurant specializes in kaarage (fried chicken thighs). The chicken came with shredded cabbage, rice, pickles, and miso soup. The chicken was juicy and the coating was crispy - delicious.
We returned to Kurashiki after lunch, and hung out around the Bikan district, home to a collection of preserved buildings going back a couple of centuries. Formerly used as residences, businesses, and storehouses for rice, cotton, and other commodities, the buildings are being used as museums, restaurants, cafes, and shops. We visited the Ohara home as well as the Museum of Folk Craft, which showcases a collection of local items such as dishware, carpets, baskets, etc. Both sites were worthwhile, as well as simply wandering among the canals. A large art museum, the Ohara Museum of Art, is also here; we didn't have time for it.
All in all, we did not find Okayama a worthwhile stop. Done over, we would have skipped it.
Nov 21st, 2023, 09:10 AM
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mjs, we were at the Westin last week. Love what was done to the old Mitsukoshi building next door. The Foodies Garden in the basement is a great supermarket/food store. Verve Coffee, a favorite of ours in Santa Cruz was a nice addition as well. It was just starting to feel like Fall weather our last week in Japan with colors peeking out here and there.
Nov 21st, 2023, 09:38 PM
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Home. Global entry has become so fast and easy to use! This was our 5th stay at the Westin and as always enjoyed our stay. The renovation has spruced up the rooms. Has gotten pricey. $670 a night during our stay but luckily was able to use points for 2 rooms for 5 nights. 10 Years ago it was $350 a night or 10K a night Starwood points. Today 75 K Marriott Bonvoy pesos. Agree that the Central market is a lovely supermarket. We ate from there twice during our stay. Brought sandwiches from Joel Robuchon for dinner on our flight home.
Nov 22nd, 2023, 04:31 AM
#95
Thanks for the continued journey, tp! It’s interesting to hear about Kurashiki and Okayama as that was an area I was considering but ultimately decided not to go. Kurashiki sounds charming.
I agree, it’s not the number of sights seen as we each have different interests and tolerance for sightseeing. What my husband and I both come away with are the wonderful connections we made with people everywhere we went. I can’t begin to express our appreciation for the warmth and generosity we experienced throughout our travels. We had many wonderful small moments everywhere which have left strong impressions on both of us, and that has really made me a Japan-lover.
I agree, it’s not the number of sights seen as we each have different interests and tolerance for sightseeing. What my husband and I both come away with are the wonderful connections we made with people everywhere we went. I can’t begin to express our appreciation for the warmth and generosity we experienced throughout our travels. We had many wonderful small moments everywhere which have left strong impressions on both of us, and that has really made me a Japan-lover.
Nov 22nd, 2023, 05:12 AM
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mjs, glad you made it home safely.
progol, that's awesome. The connections forged and memories made are what makes travel special.
A Perfect Day by the Sea
After yet another sumptous breakfast feast at our ryokan, we set out again to explore another corner of Japan. Destination? Tomonoura. An old-time fishing village situated off the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, Tomonoura is a sweet place undiscovered by the package tour crowds. We traveled by JR train from Kurashiki station to Fukuyama, which took almost an hour, and transferred to a bus bound for the seaside village, an approximately 30-minute ride.
Today was a warm and sunny day in our part of Japan, and perfect for a stroll by the sea. We began our sightseeing at Fukuzen-ji, a Buddhist temple with a picture-postcard view of the Seto Inland Sea with numerous islands that look like it is floating on the water. No wonder why a Korean ambassador to Japan remarked that this is the best view in this side of Asia. The temple is also home to a Thousand-Armed Kannon and a Kannon stylized like the Virgin Mary. From there we made our way to Enpuku-ji, a temple built on top of the ruins of a castle on this site. From Enpuku-ji, we made our way to the pier and enjoyed a quiet seaside stroll armed with delicious chestnut and sweet potato soft serve ice cream. We visited the Ota residence of a sake manufacturer and merchant for a look at what a home in this part of Japan looked like, as well as artifacts from the sake storehouse. We took a couple of photographs from the lighthouse and then hiked up to Io-ji for some more incredible views of the sea and islands within it. We did all of this by ourselves, in peace and quiet; what an awesome change of pace from the crowds of Kyoto and even of Himeji.
After three wonderful hours walking around Tomonoura absorbing the simple beauty of the fishing village, we hopped on a ferry from Tomonoura to Seisui-jima, a five-minute ride. Seisui-jima is pure nature. We completed a couple of relatively easy trail walks on Seisui-jima, in the forest and along its sandy beaches. There were expansive views of the Seto Inland Sea - simply spectacular. Our two hours on the island was probably the most relaxed we've been all trip long.
In addition to Seisui-jima, the closest to Tomonoura, there are ferries to other nearby islands as well as Onomichi, a larger city on the Seto Inland Sea coast known for its myriad temples. We could have easily spent a few laid-back days based in Tomonoura and taken day trips from there. Hopefully the gem by the sea stays the way it is.
Our dinner tonight was at Rentenchi, an Italian restaurant down the street from our ryokan (the meal was included in the price of our stay). The set menu included a selection of appetizers, speghetti ragu, fish, meat, and dessert. The authentic Italian dinner was a welcome break from our Japanese meals (we enjoyed our Japanese meals, of course.
progol, that's awesome. The connections forged and memories made are what makes travel special.
A Perfect Day by the Sea
After yet another sumptous breakfast feast at our ryokan, we set out again to explore another corner of Japan. Destination? Tomonoura. An old-time fishing village situated off the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, Tomonoura is a sweet place undiscovered by the package tour crowds. We traveled by JR train from Kurashiki station to Fukuyama, which took almost an hour, and transferred to a bus bound for the seaside village, an approximately 30-minute ride.
Today was a warm and sunny day in our part of Japan, and perfect for a stroll by the sea. We began our sightseeing at Fukuzen-ji, a Buddhist temple with a picture-postcard view of the Seto Inland Sea with numerous islands that look like it is floating on the water. No wonder why a Korean ambassador to Japan remarked that this is the best view in this side of Asia. The temple is also home to a Thousand-Armed Kannon and a Kannon stylized like the Virgin Mary. From there we made our way to Enpuku-ji, a temple built on top of the ruins of a castle on this site. From Enpuku-ji, we made our way to the pier and enjoyed a quiet seaside stroll armed with delicious chestnut and sweet potato soft serve ice cream. We visited the Ota residence of a sake manufacturer and merchant for a look at what a home in this part of Japan looked like, as well as artifacts from the sake storehouse. We took a couple of photographs from the lighthouse and then hiked up to Io-ji for some more incredible views of the sea and islands within it. We did all of this by ourselves, in peace and quiet; what an awesome change of pace from the crowds of Kyoto and even of Himeji.
After three wonderful hours walking around Tomonoura absorbing the simple beauty of the fishing village, we hopped on a ferry from Tomonoura to Seisui-jima, a five-minute ride. Seisui-jima is pure nature. We completed a couple of relatively easy trail walks on Seisui-jima, in the forest and along its sandy beaches. There were expansive views of the Seto Inland Sea - simply spectacular. Our two hours on the island was probably the most relaxed we've been all trip long.
In addition to Seisui-jima, the closest to Tomonoura, there are ferries to other nearby islands as well as Onomichi, a larger city on the Seto Inland Sea coast known for its myriad temples. We could have easily spent a few laid-back days based in Tomonoura and taken day trips from there. Hopefully the gem by the sea stays the way it is.
Our dinner tonight was at Rentenchi, an Italian restaurant down the street from our ryokan (the meal was included in the price of our stay). The set menu included a selection of appetizers, speghetti ragu, fish, meat, and dessert. The authentic Italian dinner was a welcome break from our Japanese meals (we enjoyed our Japanese meals, of course.
Nov 22nd, 2023, 08:32 AM
#97
Thanks for the continued journey, tp! It’s interesting to hear about Kurashiki and Okayama as that was an area I was considering but ultimately decided not to go. Kurashiki sounds charming.
I agree, it’s not the number of sights seen as we each have different interests and tolerance for sightseeing. What my husband and I both come away with are the wonderful connections we made with people everywhere we went. I can’t begin to express our appreciation for the warmth and generosity we experienced throughout our travels. We had many wonderful small moments everywhere which have left strong impressions on both of us, and that has really made me a Japan-lover.
I agree, it’s not the number of sights seen as we each have different interests and tolerance for sightseeing. What my husband and I both come away with are the wonderful connections we made with people everywhere we went. I can’t begin to express our appreciation for the warmth and generosity we experienced throughout our travels. We had many wonderful small moments everywhere which have left strong impressions on both of us, and that has really made me a Japan-lover.
This is exactly what I hope that people will come away with from a visit to Japan. That hope is why I post here.
Am happy to know that both of you got it.
Nov 22nd, 2023, 09:59 AM
#98
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I went to Tomonoura this past spring and visited the same places you mentioned, tp001....a very nice little town. My main reason to visit was the places associated with
Sakamoto Ryoma, famous for being involved with the ending of the Shogunate. I watched the NHK Taiga, Ryomaden, all 40 odd episodes, back ten or so years ago and I have always liked to visit places associated with him.
I stayed in Fukuyama for my visit there and then also went to Onomichi where I took a ferry to Kousanji on Ikuchijima Island, a very interesting recently built Buddhist temple.
I also went to Shinshoji Temple, also recently built, which was a half hour bus ride from Fukuyama.
Sakamoto Ryoma, famous for being involved with the ending of the Shogunate. I watched the NHK Taiga, Ryomaden, all 40 odd episodes, back ten or so years ago and I have always liked to visit places associated with him.
I stayed in Fukuyama for my visit there and then also went to Onomichi where I took a ferry to Kousanji on Ikuchijima Island, a very interesting recently built Buddhist temple.
I also went to Shinshoji Temple, also recently built, which was a half hour bus ride from Fukuyama.
Nov 22nd, 2023, 10:57 AM
#99
tp, I love your description of your time in Tomonoura! It sounds like a wonderful day! And a welcome change after the busyness of Kyoto!
“Wonderful! I love it!
This is exactly what I hope that people will come away with from a visit to Japan. That hope is why I post here.
Am happy to know that both of you got it.”
mrwunrfl - 🥰
“Wonderful! I love it!
This is exactly what I hope that people will come away with from a visit to Japan. That hope is why I post here.
Am happy to know that both of you got it.”
mrwunrfl - 🥰
Nov 24th, 2023, 05:17 AM
#100
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mrwunrfl, your advice is very much appreciated.
Mara, that's great. Onomichi was on my list but removed due to lack of time.
progol, Tomonoura was very relaxed yet fun. I highly recommend it should you return and visit this part of Japan.
A Phoenix Arisen
This morning we travelled by Shinkansen from Kurashiki to Hiroshima by way of Okayama. We came to Hiroshima with mixed emotions. We came as Americans, whose country was the victim of attack by the Japanese at Pearl Harbor and also whose country was responsible for dropping the atomic bomb on the city of islands towards the end of the Second World War. We came as the children and grandchildren of family who suffered from Japanese colonialism that eventually resulted in what is called in Japan as the Pacific War. We also came as human beings who were able to connect with the wonderful Japanese people during this and a prior trip. It was through these different and conflicting prisms that we experienced Hiroshima.
We began our visit where world history was changed forever on that fateful day in 1945. From the Hilton Hiroshima, our home base, we walked down Peace Boulevard to the Peace Memorial Museum and Park. We spent two hours diving into the story of the once politically- and miltarily-important city, learning about Hiroshima before the war and after it. We tried to connect with the stories of lives lost and changed forever through the museum's excellent exhibits. We walked away appreciating what happened here more than what we are able to absorb in history classes of our younger years. This visit felt very similar to our experiences at the museums about the Holocaust in Krakow. We found the Peace Park to be a great complement to our time at the museum.
While we felt most sadness coming out of the museum, we cannot helpful but feel more optimistic and hopeful wandering around the park, with its memorials to the dead. Despite all that the people of Hiroshima suffered, there seemed to be a positive energy all around us, not just in the park but throughout the city. Everyone we encountered seemed happy, relaxed, and carefree. We saw a lot of smiles and heard a lot of laughter, which caught our attention as generally speaking most of the Japanese we've encountered, while friendly, were reserved.
When in Rome... Well, this is Hiroshima and that meant having okonomiyaki for lunch. A dish made of noodles, meat, and vegetables fried in batter pancake-style, it was both delicious and filling.
We were fortunate to come to Hiroshima at koyo's peak. The trees all around us were awash in red, yellow, and orange. We saw more foliage around us in Hiroshima than anywhere else during our three weeks of travel around Japan. We also enjoyed walking along the river, taking in the several bridges spanning the islands that make up the central part of the city. We visited Hiroshima Castle, a reconstruction from the 1950s. Unlike Okayama Castle, we found the exhibits inside Hiroshima Castle of the city's pre-war history and its artwork, very enjoyable. We also visited Shukkei-en, and were pleasantly surprised at how much we enjoyed this relatively small but packed garden. The scenery was as good if not better than the other gardens we visited around Japan, and momijis greeted us at every turn.
Evening consisted of a teppanaki dinner at Mimitei down the street from our hotel, and a stroll along Peace Boulevard, with its brightly-colored holiday lights and people out and about having a good time.
Tourist Crowd Central
As this is our first Western hotel on this trip (one of two), we chose to eat breakfast at the hotel buffet. And this being Japan, we had hoped for a selection that included both Japanese and Western dishes, a wish that was granted. All the usual Western fare were available. Other than the bacon, everything else tasted as we would expect. Seems like the Japanese like their eggs more runny though. On the Japanese end, we enjoyed chirasi sushi and miso soup. We also liked the Chinese-style fried noodles on offer.
Today we were bound for Miyajima, a small island in Hiroshima Bay that is home to Itsukushima Shrine with its world-famous vermillion torii out in the sea. We hopped on the first ferry (8:30) leaving from the Peace Park in central Hiroshima, which took about 45 minutes. There, it seemed as though all of the tourists of Japan, foreign and domestic, descended on the island today. The crowds were insane, definitely the worst we've had all trip. Even though we were tempted to leave throughout the day, we wound up staying for most of it. We thought to ourselves, the crowd situation will probably never get any better, it's very unlikely we will want to come back, so let's make the most of it. The line to purchase tickets to the shrine was 30 minutes long and it was very hard to move around once there. After a brief stop at the main altar to observe what we could of a Shinto wedding taking place there, we left.
Aware that low tide was still more than a couple of hours away, when we could walk out on the seabed to the great torii, we headed for Momijidani Park. Normally we would be here when the foliage is peaking, but because of the intensely warm summer, many of the maple leaves died off before turning color. We did see a few trees sprouting red and orange here and there. The ropeway up Mt. Misen was also out of the question as it wasn't operating due to high winds. Instead, we made our way to Daisho-in, a large Buddhist temple on the base of the mountain. We enjoyed the various subtemples to Buddha and to Kannon, including a large Tibetan-style Buddha and a sand mandala as well as many statues of the thousand-armed Kannon. We prayed at a cave temple with a statue of Buddha for each of the 88 temples around Shikoku Island. We viewed maple leaves at peak at several viewpoints at the temple. Our visit to Daisho-in was our happiest on the island, until...
It was about 2:00 and low tide. We walked back to Itsukushima Shrine and out onto the seabed. The same crowds that marred our visit were with us as well. But for way or reason, we forgot about the crowds and focused on where we were. The torii was impressive as was the views of the sea and mountains all around us. Unlike at the shrine, we actually wanted to be here, right then. We stayed for about an hour, until the waters came in.
While we were on Miyajima, we ate momiji manju, bread in the shape of maple leaves and filled with various items such as red bean and custard, and purchased some for later; and also grilled oysters and eel. We left the island just before sunset, but the way back took longer on the combination ferry and train. It was packed the entire way back.
Dinner was again near our hotel, at Tempura Tenko. Tempura is our favorite Japanese food, so we wanted to enjoy it one more time before we head home.
Mara, that's great. Onomichi was on my list but removed due to lack of time.
progol, Tomonoura was very relaxed yet fun. I highly recommend it should you return and visit this part of Japan.
A Phoenix Arisen
This morning we travelled by Shinkansen from Kurashiki to Hiroshima by way of Okayama. We came to Hiroshima with mixed emotions. We came as Americans, whose country was the victim of attack by the Japanese at Pearl Harbor and also whose country was responsible for dropping the atomic bomb on the city of islands towards the end of the Second World War. We came as the children and grandchildren of family who suffered from Japanese colonialism that eventually resulted in what is called in Japan as the Pacific War. We also came as human beings who were able to connect with the wonderful Japanese people during this and a prior trip. It was through these different and conflicting prisms that we experienced Hiroshima.
We began our visit where world history was changed forever on that fateful day in 1945. From the Hilton Hiroshima, our home base, we walked down Peace Boulevard to the Peace Memorial Museum and Park. We spent two hours diving into the story of the once politically- and miltarily-important city, learning about Hiroshima before the war and after it. We tried to connect with the stories of lives lost and changed forever through the museum's excellent exhibits. We walked away appreciating what happened here more than what we are able to absorb in history classes of our younger years. This visit felt very similar to our experiences at the museums about the Holocaust in Krakow. We found the Peace Park to be a great complement to our time at the museum.
While we felt most sadness coming out of the museum, we cannot helpful but feel more optimistic and hopeful wandering around the park, with its memorials to the dead. Despite all that the people of Hiroshima suffered, there seemed to be a positive energy all around us, not just in the park but throughout the city. Everyone we encountered seemed happy, relaxed, and carefree. We saw a lot of smiles and heard a lot of laughter, which caught our attention as generally speaking most of the Japanese we've encountered, while friendly, were reserved.
When in Rome... Well, this is Hiroshima and that meant having okonomiyaki for lunch. A dish made of noodles, meat, and vegetables fried in batter pancake-style, it was both delicious and filling.
We were fortunate to come to Hiroshima at koyo's peak. The trees all around us were awash in red, yellow, and orange. We saw more foliage around us in Hiroshima than anywhere else during our three weeks of travel around Japan. We also enjoyed walking along the river, taking in the several bridges spanning the islands that make up the central part of the city. We visited Hiroshima Castle, a reconstruction from the 1950s. Unlike Okayama Castle, we found the exhibits inside Hiroshima Castle of the city's pre-war history and its artwork, very enjoyable. We also visited Shukkei-en, and were pleasantly surprised at how much we enjoyed this relatively small but packed garden. The scenery was as good if not better than the other gardens we visited around Japan, and momijis greeted us at every turn.
Evening consisted of a teppanaki dinner at Mimitei down the street from our hotel, and a stroll along Peace Boulevard, with its brightly-colored holiday lights and people out and about having a good time.
Tourist Crowd Central
As this is our first Western hotel on this trip (one of two), we chose to eat breakfast at the hotel buffet. And this being Japan, we had hoped for a selection that included both Japanese and Western dishes, a wish that was granted. All the usual Western fare were available. Other than the bacon, everything else tasted as we would expect. Seems like the Japanese like their eggs more runny though. On the Japanese end, we enjoyed chirasi sushi and miso soup. We also liked the Chinese-style fried noodles on offer.
Today we were bound for Miyajima, a small island in Hiroshima Bay that is home to Itsukushima Shrine with its world-famous vermillion torii out in the sea. We hopped on the first ferry (8:30) leaving from the Peace Park in central Hiroshima, which took about 45 minutes. There, it seemed as though all of the tourists of Japan, foreign and domestic, descended on the island today. The crowds were insane, definitely the worst we've had all trip. Even though we were tempted to leave throughout the day, we wound up staying for most of it. We thought to ourselves, the crowd situation will probably never get any better, it's very unlikely we will want to come back, so let's make the most of it. The line to purchase tickets to the shrine was 30 minutes long and it was very hard to move around once there. After a brief stop at the main altar to observe what we could of a Shinto wedding taking place there, we left.
Aware that low tide was still more than a couple of hours away, when we could walk out on the seabed to the great torii, we headed for Momijidani Park. Normally we would be here when the foliage is peaking, but because of the intensely warm summer, many of the maple leaves died off before turning color. We did see a few trees sprouting red and orange here and there. The ropeway up Mt. Misen was also out of the question as it wasn't operating due to high winds. Instead, we made our way to Daisho-in, a large Buddhist temple on the base of the mountain. We enjoyed the various subtemples to Buddha and to Kannon, including a large Tibetan-style Buddha and a sand mandala as well as many statues of the thousand-armed Kannon. We prayed at a cave temple with a statue of Buddha for each of the 88 temples around Shikoku Island. We viewed maple leaves at peak at several viewpoints at the temple. Our visit to Daisho-in was our happiest on the island, until...
It was about 2:00 and low tide. We walked back to Itsukushima Shrine and out onto the seabed. The same crowds that marred our visit were with us as well. But for way or reason, we forgot about the crowds and focused on where we were. The torii was impressive as was the views of the sea and mountains all around us. Unlike at the shrine, we actually wanted to be here, right then. We stayed for about an hour, until the waters came in.
While we were on Miyajima, we ate momiji manju, bread in the shape of maple leaves and filled with various items such as red bean and custard, and purchased some for later; and also grilled oysters and eel. We left the island just before sunset, but the way back took longer on the combination ferry and train. It was packed the entire way back.
Dinner was again near our hotel, at Tempura Tenko. Tempura is our favorite Japanese food, so we wanted to enjoy it one more time before we head home.
