Chasing Colors in Japan: A November 2023 Trip
Nov 13th, 2023, 03:34 AM
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mjs, I try to take 15 minutes either at the end of the day or early in the next morning to gather my thoughts, which makes the task fairly straightforward. Photos, though, are another story, which is why I haven't shared any yet. Hope your daughter recovers quickly and that you both are enjoying Kyoto. We get there in two days.
Big Country Town
We awoke after a good night's sleep to a full Japanese breakfast delivered to our accommodations. After enjoying the delicious food, we bundled up and headed out on what was a brisk, cold day. We began our sightseeing at Kokubun-ji and were greeted with some momiji (red maple) in full color. From there we walked to Takayama Jinya, the seat of government during the shogunate era. We toured the home and administrative offices of the ruling lord, although much imagination was needed given the typical lack of furniture inside Japanese residences. In addition to the home and office is a neighboring storehouse with an extensive collection of memorabilia from the days of the shogun. From there we strolled the Miyagawa Morning Market, sampling snacks from takoyaki (octopus balls) to taiyaki (red bean paste bread). We wanted the Sanmachi Historic District, admiring buildings from a past era converted into various businesses. While the street immediately butting the river and the next one over were bustling with tourists, the streets further west were quiet without another person in sight. The businesses did not seem to be open either for that matter. We also visited Kusakabe Historic House, one typical of the area. From there we headed north and east to Sakurayama Shrine, to visit the shrine itself as well as the exhibit hall housing floats from the famed autumn Takayama Festival. The floats, massive items decorated with images of cultural significance and decked in precious materials, were interesting to look at.
Thanks very much to progol's suggestion, we spent much of the afternoon wandering the Higashiyama (Eastern Mountains) Walking Course, tracing our way through a series of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. The course is mostly flat with steps up and down the temples and shrines and fairly easy to navigate with signage throughout the course. In addition to enjoying the temples and shrines, the nearby mountains, with bursts of koyo colors were also very pleasing.
We spent the evening doing some shopping in the historic part of town and enjoyed dinner at Suzuya, one of the most popular Hida beef restaurants in town. Suzuya does not take reservations and the wait at 6:00 was about an hour, but well worth it. We ordered beef to grill, chicken and vegetables served in a nabe, as well as shrimp tempura and tonkatsu, all delicious. The restaurant has a nice atmosphere and the staff are super agreeable.
Our feelings of Takayama are mixed. The city very much had the feel of a big country town, which we liked. Walking through the Miyagawa Morning Market as well as along the river in general with the numerous bridges was very nice. However, we found much of the streets we walked too quiet for us. Even on a Monday, it seems most businesses were shut and there were very few people on the streets except for the few thoroughfares that catered to tourists. At times, it felt like a ghost town. I don't know if we are just here well after the tourist season (from how hard it is to get into restaurants, it wouldn't seem so), or is the deportation affecting Japan just that much more profound in Takayama. Perhaps it's something else.
Big Country Town
We awoke after a good night's sleep to a full Japanese breakfast delivered to our accommodations. After enjoying the delicious food, we bundled up and headed out on what was a brisk, cold day. We began our sightseeing at Kokubun-ji and were greeted with some momiji (red maple) in full color. From there we walked to Takayama Jinya, the seat of government during the shogunate era. We toured the home and administrative offices of the ruling lord, although much imagination was needed given the typical lack of furniture inside Japanese residences. In addition to the home and office is a neighboring storehouse with an extensive collection of memorabilia from the days of the shogun. From there we strolled the Miyagawa Morning Market, sampling snacks from takoyaki (octopus balls) to taiyaki (red bean paste bread). We wanted the Sanmachi Historic District, admiring buildings from a past era converted into various businesses. While the street immediately butting the river and the next one over were bustling with tourists, the streets further west were quiet without another person in sight. The businesses did not seem to be open either for that matter. We also visited Kusakabe Historic House, one typical of the area. From there we headed north and east to Sakurayama Shrine, to visit the shrine itself as well as the exhibit hall housing floats from the famed autumn Takayama Festival. The floats, massive items decorated with images of cultural significance and decked in precious materials, were interesting to look at.
Thanks very much to progol's suggestion, we spent much of the afternoon wandering the Higashiyama (Eastern Mountains) Walking Course, tracing our way through a series of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. The course is mostly flat with steps up and down the temples and shrines and fairly easy to navigate with signage throughout the course. In addition to enjoying the temples and shrines, the nearby mountains, with bursts of koyo colors were also very pleasing.
We spent the evening doing some shopping in the historic part of town and enjoyed dinner at Suzuya, one of the most popular Hida beef restaurants in town. Suzuya does not take reservations and the wait at 6:00 was about an hour, but well worth it. We ordered beef to grill, chicken and vegetables served in a nabe, as well as shrimp tempura and tonkatsu, all delicious. The restaurant has a nice atmosphere and the staff are super agreeable.
Our feelings of Takayama are mixed. The city very much had the feel of a big country town, which we liked. Walking through the Miyagawa Morning Market as well as along the river in general with the numerous bridges was very nice. However, we found much of the streets we walked too quiet for us. Even on a Monday, it seems most businesses were shut and there were very few people on the streets except for the few thoroughfares that catered to tourists. At times, it felt like a ghost town. I don't know if we are just here well after the tourist season (from how hard it is to get into restaurants, it wouldn't seem so), or is the deportation affecting Japan just that much more profound in Takayama. Perhaps it's something else.
Nov 13th, 2023, 08:09 AM
#63
Some businesses in Takayama (ryokan, at least) take Monday off after being open over the weekend to accommodate daytrippers and overnighters coming up from Nagoya. Rural depopulation and aging would probably contribute.
Nov 13th, 2023, 03:53 PM
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Tp001 must be carrying a laptop. Tons of tourists, particularly Chinese in Kyoto. Except for yesterday when we had to go to an ophthalmologist, we have been hitting the Temples as early as possible, today 0630 Fushimi Inari.
Nov 13th, 2023, 04:03 PM
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Nov 13th, 2023, 05:15 PM
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“From there we headed north and east to Sakurayama Shrine, to visit the shrine itself as well as the exhibit hall housing floats from the famed autumn Takayama Festival. The floats, massive items decorated with images of cultural significance and decked in precious materials, were interesting to look at.“
In. 2019 we went to the Takayama fall festival…fascinating.
In. 2019 we went to the Takayama fall festival…fascinating.
Nov 13th, 2023, 09:01 PM
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I should amend my comment on foreign tourists we have seen in Kyoto during the last few days. Mostly by far hear Chinese being spoken although these tourists may also be from Taiwan and other countries not necessarily China. Do also see a fair number of Japanese tourists, esp school field trips. Fair number of Europeans and those from OZ. Not seeing many from the US which is surprising.
Nov 14th, 2023, 03:38 AM
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mrwunrfl, thank you for that information.
KarenWoo, thank you.
mjs, yes, I am carrying a laptop as I need it for work, which doesn't really stop when I'm on vacation. We usually carry two laptops among the four of us.
mjs and Mara, as for Chinese tourists, we've heard Cantonese everywhere we went, without fail. We've also had conversations with tourists from Taiwan and Singapore. As for non-Asian tourists, we're identified individuals and groups from Spain and from Italy; actually a lot of Italians seem to be here. Not many Americans though.
Autumn Foliage? No. Winter Wonderland? Yes.
We checked the weather for Kamikochi the day before, and it was forecasted to be in the 30s and sunny. The cold wasn't ideal but the sunny weather meant we had a good chance to be able to hike and enjoy the mountain vistas. We purchased our tickets at Takayama Station the evening before. Weather permitting, we would be alpine-bound, the Northern Japanese Alps to be precise. We woke up at 5:30 to catch a 7:00 bus bound for Kamikochi, transferring at Hirayu Onsen. Unlike the buses between Kanazawa and Takayama, the buses to and from Kamikochi are unreserved so arriving late means waiting for the next bus. Not to worry as we were fourth in line. The buses were packed to the brim, and the aisle was completely blocked with sidecar-style seating, which made for a very uncomfortable ride. The scenery, though, was better. We were in the mountains soon after we left Takayama. About half an hour into the ride, we began to see a light dusting of snow on the mountains. As we drove deeper into the mountains, we found ourselves travelling through a winter wonderful of big, beautiful pine trees covered in snow all around us. Everything was white. The bus ride took about an hour to reach Hirayu Onsen, from where we hopped on another bus bound for Kamikochi, arriving half an hour later.
We arrived in Kamikochi at 8:30, to a winter wonderland. The region received about two inches of fresh snow overnight so everything was covered in a soft, fluffy white. Christmas was in the air, at least in our minds. We started at the Kamikochi bus terminal and chose the walking trail bound for Myojin Pond. There are two routes, one on the north side of the river and other on the south. We took the one on the south. The three kilometer walk one-way took about an hour and a half. We walked along the valley floor the entire way, traversing an expansive pine forest. Except for a few icy patches here and there, it was very pleasant to walk on the fresh snow. About two-thirds of the way into the walk, forest gave way to a clearing and mountain peak after mountain peak appeared before us, each covered in a dusting of snow. Simply magic. At Myojin Bridge, we were greeted with several playful Japanese macaques playing along the riverbank and on the walking path. They were fun to watch, especially the baby monkeys. Near Myojin Bridge is Hotaka Shrine, with Myojin Pond behind it. Wow does not fully express our reaction. Myojin-take showed itself to us in its fully glory, reflected by the blue waters. The small islands and tree trunks in the pond added to the complexity of the scenery, as if we were walking onto a scroll painting.
From Myojin Pond, we took the northern walking trail on the opposite side of the Azusa River back to Kappa Bridge. Unlike the southern route, which is mostly gravel, the northern route is connected by a series of boardwalks. All along the way we saw Japanese macaques, munching on the leaves on the plants on the forest floor, bouncing from tree to tree, etc. The mountain views were so much more expansive on this trail. We enjoyed admiring the entire Hotaka Mountain Range along the way, stopping often for photographs. We also enjoyed meandering streams and a few small waterfalls.
It took us about 90 minutes to make the 3.5 to 4 kilometer walk from Myojin Pond back to Kappa Bridge. By 12:30, this area was bustling with people. We stopped here for lunch at a cafeteria on the base of Kappa Bridge. We ordered at a kiosk, printed tickets with information on the food we ordered, and then submitted the dining requests. I chose curry rice with a special Kamikochi croquette made from beef and potatoes. Others enjoyed udon and soba. There are also burgers and hot dogs on order, but these items were sold out this afternoon.
After lunch, we walked from Kappa Bridge to Taisho Pond. The walk, again on flat land hugging the Azusa River, was on gravel, although different sections were covered in snow. We continued to admire the Hotaka Mountains and the surrounding landscape. Yake-dake revealed itself to us in full. The afternoon clouds rolled in about midday into our hike, but this didn't bother us. We were fortunate enough to have already enjoyed the mountains in its full glory, especially at Tashiro and Taisho Ponds. Besides, the fog gave the mountains some mystery. The walk took about an hour and a half. We completed our walks around 3:00.
We were immediately met by a bus that would take us to Hirayu Onsen, from where we would transfer for Takayama. As it was still fairly early, we took a stroll through the one street that is Hirayu Onsen for a look at the water bubbling up from the ground. There was not much at the onsen town except for hotels and one souvenir shop. The sun began to fall as we left Hirayu Onsen. We enjoyed one last glimpse of the magnificent peaks, now bathed in gold from the sun as it was almost sunset time. We arrived back at Takayama at 5:30.
We returned to our townhouse to refresh and relax before dinner around the corner from us, Le Midi, a French restaurant. Two of us enjoyed delicious Hida beef steaks, accompanied by potato gratin, half a grilled onion, and some vegetables. The others ordered a beef stew and sea bass. We left nothing on our plates. We also enjoyed creme brulee and apple tart tatin for dessert. Another highly recommended restaurant.
KarenWoo, thank you.
mjs, yes, I am carrying a laptop as I need it for work, which doesn't really stop when I'm on vacation. We usually carry two laptops among the four of us.
mjs and Mara, as for Chinese tourists, we've heard Cantonese everywhere we went, without fail. We've also had conversations with tourists from Taiwan and Singapore. As for non-Asian tourists, we're identified individuals and groups from Spain and from Italy; actually a lot of Italians seem to be here. Not many Americans though.
Autumn Foliage? No. Winter Wonderland? Yes.
We checked the weather for Kamikochi the day before, and it was forecasted to be in the 30s and sunny. The cold wasn't ideal but the sunny weather meant we had a good chance to be able to hike and enjoy the mountain vistas. We purchased our tickets at Takayama Station the evening before. Weather permitting, we would be alpine-bound, the Northern Japanese Alps to be precise. We woke up at 5:30 to catch a 7:00 bus bound for Kamikochi, transferring at Hirayu Onsen. Unlike the buses between Kanazawa and Takayama, the buses to and from Kamikochi are unreserved so arriving late means waiting for the next bus. Not to worry as we were fourth in line. The buses were packed to the brim, and the aisle was completely blocked with sidecar-style seating, which made for a very uncomfortable ride. The scenery, though, was better. We were in the mountains soon after we left Takayama. About half an hour into the ride, we began to see a light dusting of snow on the mountains. As we drove deeper into the mountains, we found ourselves travelling through a winter wonderful of big, beautiful pine trees covered in snow all around us. Everything was white. The bus ride took about an hour to reach Hirayu Onsen, from where we hopped on another bus bound for Kamikochi, arriving half an hour later.
We arrived in Kamikochi at 8:30, to a winter wonderland. The region received about two inches of fresh snow overnight so everything was covered in a soft, fluffy white. Christmas was in the air, at least in our minds. We started at the Kamikochi bus terminal and chose the walking trail bound for Myojin Pond. There are two routes, one on the north side of the river and other on the south. We took the one on the south. The three kilometer walk one-way took about an hour and a half. We walked along the valley floor the entire way, traversing an expansive pine forest. Except for a few icy patches here and there, it was very pleasant to walk on the fresh snow. About two-thirds of the way into the walk, forest gave way to a clearing and mountain peak after mountain peak appeared before us, each covered in a dusting of snow. Simply magic. At Myojin Bridge, we were greeted with several playful Japanese macaques playing along the riverbank and on the walking path. They were fun to watch, especially the baby monkeys. Near Myojin Bridge is Hotaka Shrine, with Myojin Pond behind it. Wow does not fully express our reaction. Myojin-take showed itself to us in its fully glory, reflected by the blue waters. The small islands and tree trunks in the pond added to the complexity of the scenery, as if we were walking onto a scroll painting.
From Myojin Pond, we took the northern walking trail on the opposite side of the Azusa River back to Kappa Bridge. Unlike the southern route, which is mostly gravel, the northern route is connected by a series of boardwalks. All along the way we saw Japanese macaques, munching on the leaves on the plants on the forest floor, bouncing from tree to tree, etc. The mountain views were so much more expansive on this trail. We enjoyed admiring the entire Hotaka Mountain Range along the way, stopping often for photographs. We also enjoyed meandering streams and a few small waterfalls.
It took us about 90 minutes to make the 3.5 to 4 kilometer walk from Myojin Pond back to Kappa Bridge. By 12:30, this area was bustling with people. We stopped here for lunch at a cafeteria on the base of Kappa Bridge. We ordered at a kiosk, printed tickets with information on the food we ordered, and then submitted the dining requests. I chose curry rice with a special Kamikochi croquette made from beef and potatoes. Others enjoyed udon and soba. There are also burgers and hot dogs on order, but these items were sold out this afternoon.
After lunch, we walked from Kappa Bridge to Taisho Pond. The walk, again on flat land hugging the Azusa River, was on gravel, although different sections were covered in snow. We continued to admire the Hotaka Mountains and the surrounding landscape. Yake-dake revealed itself to us in full. The afternoon clouds rolled in about midday into our hike, but this didn't bother us. We were fortunate enough to have already enjoyed the mountains in its full glory, especially at Tashiro and Taisho Ponds. Besides, the fog gave the mountains some mystery. The walk took about an hour and a half. We completed our walks around 3:00.
We were immediately met by a bus that would take us to Hirayu Onsen, from where we would transfer for Takayama. As it was still fairly early, we took a stroll through the one street that is Hirayu Onsen for a look at the water bubbling up from the ground. There was not much at the onsen town except for hotels and one souvenir shop. The sun began to fall as we left Hirayu Onsen. We enjoyed one last glimpse of the magnificent peaks, now bathed in gold from the sun as it was almost sunset time. We arrived back at Takayama at 5:30.
We returned to our townhouse to refresh and relax before dinner around the corner from us, Le Midi, a French restaurant. Two of us enjoyed delicious Hida beef steaks, accompanied by potato gratin, half a grilled onion, and some vegetables. The others ordered a beef stew and sea bass. We left nothing on our plates. We also enjoyed creme brulee and apple tart tatin for dessert. Another highly recommended restaurant.
Nov 14th, 2023, 04:23 AM
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Kamikochi in the snow sounds lovely! Glad you had a nice day there for walking. We did both of those walks in May and stayed at one of the lodges by the Kappa Bridge with a view of the river and mountains.
Nov 14th, 2023, 03:28 PM
#71
tp, your trip sounds fantastic and I envy your energy! We’ve done half the things you’ve done in twice the time! But seriously, no complaints - we’ve had a wonderful time and we leave today - I’m very sad now. It took me a while to adjust, given the time lag (and I’m not looking forward to the returning home!).
I’m thrilled that you were able to enjoy the team lab experience at Kanazawa Castle! It sounds like it was a lot of fun. We were just not able to tolerate the huge lines there - though it may have been extra busy because it was good weather and on a holiday weekend, too.
I’m also so happy that you enjoyed the DT Suzuki museum. It was one of those places where we really felt at peace. We had gone into the 21st C museum but, like the experience at the team lab event, we just found it too crowded and the high tech/AI exhibits were hard for us to get into (I think we were very tired and it was a very busy weekend). So the Suzuki museum was rhe perfect antidote.
We also enjoyed the meat in Takayama! We ate out once but our ryokan, Sumiyoshi, prepared elaborate kaiseki dinners which were excellent.
We didn’t go to Kamikochi but we did go to an onsen in the Hida mountains, where we also transferred at the Hirayu onsen stop. We were fortunate to see what seemed to be close to peak colors in the mountain area, and though we’re not hikers, we did see plenty of color by the onsen area, on the bus ride there and on to Takayama, where the colors were glorious.
We are now leaving Kyoto (❤️) and wish we had another week just for this glorious city. I don’t know where you’re staying but we ate in 2 places we really enjoyed a lot:
1) Matsumoto Sakaba, a tiny place with one chef and his (I think) son - one of the loveliest meals we had.
2) Maruhiro - a grilled meat place that was SO tender and tasty (cash only, set fee).
We are staying in Hotel Mume, in Gion, and both of these were within a 10-15 minute walk of our hotel.
I’m thrilled that you were able to enjoy the team lab experience at Kanazawa Castle! It sounds like it was a lot of fun. We were just not able to tolerate the huge lines there - though it may have been extra busy because it was good weather and on a holiday weekend, too.
I’m also so happy that you enjoyed the DT Suzuki museum. It was one of those places where we really felt at peace. We had gone into the 21st C museum but, like the experience at the team lab event, we just found it too crowded and the high tech/AI exhibits were hard for us to get into (I think we were very tired and it was a very busy weekend). So the Suzuki museum was rhe perfect antidote.
We also enjoyed the meat in Takayama! We ate out once but our ryokan, Sumiyoshi, prepared elaborate kaiseki dinners which were excellent.
We didn’t go to Kamikochi but we did go to an onsen in the Hida mountains, where we also transferred at the Hirayu onsen stop. We were fortunate to see what seemed to be close to peak colors in the mountain area, and though we’re not hikers, we did see plenty of color by the onsen area, on the bus ride there and on to Takayama, where the colors were glorious.
We are now leaving Kyoto (❤️) and wish we had another week just for this glorious city. I don’t know where you’re staying but we ate in 2 places we really enjoyed a lot:
1) Matsumoto Sakaba, a tiny place with one chef and his (I think) son - one of the loveliest meals we had.
2) Maruhiro - a grilled meat place that was SO tender and tasty (cash only, set fee).
We are staying in Hotel Mume, in Gion, and both of these were within a 10-15 minute walk of our hotel.
Nov 15th, 2023, 05:15 AM
#72
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It is fun to watch the travels off the beaten track. It has been many decades since I have visited those parts of Japan. This is the first visit to Japan for my partner so we are keeping it simple with visiting my niece in Osaka than 4 nights at an Airbnb in Kyoto. Did Nara today and will do Arishiyama early tomorrow before heading off to Tokyo in the afternoon.
Nov 15th, 2023, 05:51 AM
#73
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ms_go, it must have been very pleasant staying in Kamikochi, especially when all the daytrippers were gone.
progol, thank you and safe travels back. I know your feelings about leaving Japan. It's how we felt when we first visited in 2012 and have wanted to return, but other places and COVID kept us away until now. We're only half way through this trip and are already talking about coming back.
mjs, continue to enjoy your time in Japan. Right now, our plan is to visit Arashiyama on Friday. On tomorrow's agenda is Higashiyama.
To Kyoto, via Nagoya
It was an early morning for us once again as we were on the first train of the day leaving Takayama for Nagoya, Japan's third largest metropolitan area following Tokyo and Osaka. The journey had us crossing the Hida Mountains back down to Tokaido, taking about two and a half hours. The train ride was pleasant and passed through several scenic spots. We arrived in Nagoya shortly after 9:00, set our bags in the lockers, and grabbed some breakfast at one of the bakeries at the train station before we began exploring.
Our agenda for Nagoya were Osu Kannon Temple and SC Maglev and Railway Park. Given that we were already in Nagoya, we also checked out its castle. Constructed in the 1600s under Tokugawa Ieyasu, Nagoya Castle was destroyed by bombs during World War II and was subsequently rebuilt. Today the main castle tower is being redone again, to earthquake-proof it; as such we couldn't go inside. Instead, we visited the Honmaru, the home of the shogun, on the grounds of Nagoya Castle. Each of the rooms of this palace were decorated with exquisite wall paintings. I loved how the tigers seemed to jump out of the walls - it was so real. The wood carvings about the wall paintings and some doorways, of flowers and birds, were nicely done as well. We also walked around the castle tower and visited the chrysanthemum exhibit just outside the inner walls of the castle. From the castle we took a short walk along tree-lined Hisaya-odori before heading over to Osu Kannon Temple for worship and for sightseeing. We ate lunch at a kushikatsu place across the street from the temple. Our last stop in Nagoya was the SC Maglev and Railway Park. The museum houses one of the largest collections of trains in Japan. We viewed and stepped inside everything from an early train imported from the United States in the late 19th century for passenger use to the famous Shinkansen bullet trains to the upcoming Maglev train. We were like children in a candy store going from one to the next, examining the different features. There is so much more to see and do in Nagoya, for example, the Tokugawa Art Museum or the Toyota Car Factory, but our time is limited.
From Nagoya we hopped on the Tokaido Shinkansen for the less-than-one-hour ride to Kyoto, Japan's former capital city and perhaps most popular tourist destination. Our home in Kyoto is the Villa Sanjo Muromachi, a couple of blocks away from the convenient Karasuma Oike subway station.
progol, thank you and safe travels back. I know your feelings about leaving Japan. It's how we felt when we first visited in 2012 and have wanted to return, but other places and COVID kept us away until now. We're only half way through this trip and are already talking about coming back.
mjs, continue to enjoy your time in Japan. Right now, our plan is to visit Arashiyama on Friday. On tomorrow's agenda is Higashiyama.
To Kyoto, via Nagoya
It was an early morning for us once again as we were on the first train of the day leaving Takayama for Nagoya, Japan's third largest metropolitan area following Tokyo and Osaka. The journey had us crossing the Hida Mountains back down to Tokaido, taking about two and a half hours. The train ride was pleasant and passed through several scenic spots. We arrived in Nagoya shortly after 9:00, set our bags in the lockers, and grabbed some breakfast at one of the bakeries at the train station before we began exploring.
Our agenda for Nagoya were Osu Kannon Temple and SC Maglev and Railway Park. Given that we were already in Nagoya, we also checked out its castle. Constructed in the 1600s under Tokugawa Ieyasu, Nagoya Castle was destroyed by bombs during World War II and was subsequently rebuilt. Today the main castle tower is being redone again, to earthquake-proof it; as such we couldn't go inside. Instead, we visited the Honmaru, the home of the shogun, on the grounds of Nagoya Castle. Each of the rooms of this palace were decorated with exquisite wall paintings. I loved how the tigers seemed to jump out of the walls - it was so real. The wood carvings about the wall paintings and some doorways, of flowers and birds, were nicely done as well. We also walked around the castle tower and visited the chrysanthemum exhibit just outside the inner walls of the castle. From the castle we took a short walk along tree-lined Hisaya-odori before heading over to Osu Kannon Temple for worship and for sightseeing. We ate lunch at a kushikatsu place across the street from the temple. Our last stop in Nagoya was the SC Maglev and Railway Park. The museum houses one of the largest collections of trains in Japan. We viewed and stepped inside everything from an early train imported from the United States in the late 19th century for passenger use to the famous Shinkansen bullet trains to the upcoming Maglev train. We were like children in a candy store going from one to the next, examining the different features. There is so much more to see and do in Nagoya, for example, the Tokugawa Art Museum or the Toyota Car Factory, but our time is limited.
From Nagoya we hopped on the Tokaido Shinkansen for the less-than-one-hour ride to Kyoto, Japan's former capital city and perhaps most popular tourist destination. Our home in Kyoto is the Villa Sanjo Muromachi, a couple of blocks away from the convenient Karasuma Oike subway station.
Nov 15th, 2023, 06:20 AM
#74
Still loving your TR, but still amazed at all you do in a day. Your energy is boundless! Like so many countries the thing about Japan is that it has some many faces to it -- everywhere is different from the next . I hope we can get back and visit Kyushu.
Nov 15th, 2023, 02:20 PM
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Tp001. Had thought of the possibility of a fodor’s lunch or dinner here in Kyoto but we are like ships passing in the night. Checked out of our Airbnb this morning and walked our luggage over to the Westin who will ship our bags to the Westin Ebisu in Tokyo for our last 5 night stop before returning home. Now off to the train station to store our carryons before heading out to our last explorations in Kyoto.
Nov 15th, 2023, 10:40 PM
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On train to Tokyo. Unfortunately rain forecast tomorrow. If TP001 goes to Arishimaya it promises to be wet. Lots of tour groups and other tourists there today. Ordinarily I would try to get there early like 0700 to avoid the crowds but not sure about going there if it rains
Nov 17th, 2023, 06:45 AM
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Yestravel, we're grateful we can do this. After this trip, we expect our next visit to Japan to be Tohoku and / or Hokkaido.
mjs, continue to enjoy your trip. Hope your daughter is better now too. In terms of weather, it rained this morning but stopped by 9:00 so none of our sightseeing was impacted.
A Day at the Temples
Formerly known as Heian-kyo, or Peaceful Capital, Kyoto served as the imperial capital of Japan for a considerable portion of its history before its relocation to Tokyo. As such, Kyoto is home to over one thousand temples, shrines, and palaces once occupied by the political, economic, and social elites of Japan. It is this legacy that attracts record numbers of tourists to Kyoto every year, especially during hanami and koyo seasons.
We are devoting four full days for our second visit to Kyoto. Our goal is to revisit some of our favorite places from our previous trip and explore new gems. Our first day in Kyoto is very typical of a first-time tourist, focusing in the eastern district of Higashiyama. Our day began at 7:00 at Kiyomizu-dera, one of the most popular temples in Kyoto. Understanding its popularity, we chose to visit early. Kiyomizu-dera also happens to be one of our favorite temples in Kyoto. We revisited Kiyomizu-dera: walked the temple ground, prayed at the main hall, and drank from the holy water. We also enjoyed some of the early autumn leaves that graced the temple precinct. We encountered only a few dozen tourists during our 75-minute visit, making it rather enjoyable.
From Kiyomizu-dera we made our way downhill on Sannen-zaka and Ninnen-saka, two photogenic streets lined with shops and cafes. Given our earlier hour, most were not yet open. We continued to Ryozen Kannon Temple, where we paid our respects to our patron bodhisattva. Next was Kodai-ji. Particularly enjoyable at Kodai-ji were its rock garden as well as its small bamboo forest. We continued to Maruyama Park and Yazaka Shrine, one of the locations where the famous Gion Matsuri takes place every year.
Two major temples followed: Chion-in and Shoren-in. We spent about 90 minutes at the former and 60 at the later. Dedicated to Pure Land Buddhism, Chion-in is one of the larger temples in Kyoto. The visit was also particularly enjoyable. We visited the main hall, with its breathtaking altar. Monks were chanting in the main hall while we were there. We joined in on chanting, prayed, wandered among its nightingale hallways for the creeking sound of the floorboards to significant the approach of someone, meandered in the gardens. While Shoren-in was under construction, the residential quarters was open for public viewing.
Our morning flew by. As we left southern Higashiyama, we had a choice to make: continue with our plans to visit northern Higashiyama or change course and do something different. It was already 2:00 by then and no way we could have completed what we initially set out on our original plans for the day. As a couple of us really wanted to return to Ginkaku-ji on this trip, we pressed ahead with our draft itinerary. Nanzen-ji, another vast temple complex with numerous subtemples, was next. We visited Nanzen-in, the Hojo garden, saw the aqueduct, and climbed the Sanmon. While we enjoyed our time at Nanzen-ji, it was also the most challenging given the significant crowds.
With the day fast closing on us, we dropped Eikan-do and Honen-in from our agenda and walked along the Path of Philosophy, and made a beeline for Ginkaku-ji. Our visit in 2012 was very memorable, and I knew I wanted to return this time. Unfortunately, even at 4:30, we competed with several school groups for space on the temple grounds. We intended to stay a full hour until closing time but wound up leaving around 5:00. The crowds were too much and took away from the otherwise Zen atmosphere. We did our best to enjoy the evening light at the Silver Pavilion and at the top of the mountain despite the frustration.
We ate dinner at Cenci, an Italian restaurant with Japanese inspirations, next to Heian Shrine, which we had also initially planned to visit on this day. The three-hour dinner, consisting of soup, greens, fish, and meat, was a relaxing end to our long first day.
Temples and More Temples
We awoke to a rainy morning in Kyoto. Instead of looking for breakfast, we settled for the Starbucks around the corner of our hotel. From there we headed to Kinkaku-ji by taxi before 9:00, the temple's opening time. Even though we were first to the gate, our dreams of enjoying the Golden Pavilion in peace and quiet were dashed within seconds. School group after school group arrived right before opening time; there must have been 15 to 20 groups. A couple of tour groups were on their heels. Like at Ginkaku-ji yesterday, we left quickly. Is it possible to enjoy Kyoto anymore, we thought?
Again we hopped in a cab, for off-the-tourist-circuit Ninna-ji. We wandered the temple grounds but couldn't enter any of its buildings - disappointing. We did visit the residential quarters of the head priest of the temple, which follows a similar layout to the ones at the other temples.
From northwest Kyoto we traveled by cab to the western suburb of Arashiyama, with its picturesque mountainside views. While koyo has not yet peaked here, there was some color among the trees. It was teeming with tourists as expected. We strolled Togetsu Bridge. For lunch, we dined at Shigetsu, located inside Tenryu-ji. Shigetsu served Buddhist vegetarian cuisine; the food was delicious. After lunch, we tried to visit the gardens at Tenryu-ji, but it was so packed with visitors that we didn't bother. The nearby bamboo forest attracted the same crowds. We checked out Okochi Sansho Villa nearby, which turned out to be our highlight of the day with the most vibrant maple leaves we've seen on our trip so far and without the crush of people no less. We spent a good hour strolling its paths, taking in the incredibly beautiful vistas of reds, yellows, and oranges, as well as the nearby mountains surrounding it.
We then walked to Daikaku-ji, another temple associated with the Japanese imperial family. We toured the residence and garden, with its great pond in the back.
From Daikaku-ji, we again hopped in a taxi, this time for To-ji, near Kyoto Station. As we are visiting in November, several temples in Kyoto open up to visitors in the evening. The temples are illuminated as are the maple trees and key landscape features. We tried to reserve tickets for the evening visit online, but to no avail, as we could not register without a Japanese phone number that accepts domestic SMS messages (we also tried to prebook for an early morning visit of Tufuku-ji but ran into the same problem; both are administered by the same Smart Ex app). So instead of 5:15, we had to wait to purchase tickets and be admitted at 6:00. In any case, the line moved quickly and there were no crowds as feared as people were spread out. The illuminated trees were beautiful, even if not at full peak color. The five-story pagoda that is the icon of To-ji, bathed in light, draws your eyes to it. We were also able to visit and offer our prayers at the two large halls with its numerous statues of Buddha and other deities. We stayed for about 45 minutes.
Dinner tonight was at Tousuiro, a restaurant off Oike-dori near the Kamo River that specializes in tofu. We walked off some of our dinner strolling through Pontocho Alley into the Gion District and back to our hotel via Shijo-dori.
mjs, continue to enjoy your trip. Hope your daughter is better now too. In terms of weather, it rained this morning but stopped by 9:00 so none of our sightseeing was impacted.
A Day at the Temples
Formerly known as Heian-kyo, or Peaceful Capital, Kyoto served as the imperial capital of Japan for a considerable portion of its history before its relocation to Tokyo. As such, Kyoto is home to over one thousand temples, shrines, and palaces once occupied by the political, economic, and social elites of Japan. It is this legacy that attracts record numbers of tourists to Kyoto every year, especially during hanami and koyo seasons.
We are devoting four full days for our second visit to Kyoto. Our goal is to revisit some of our favorite places from our previous trip and explore new gems. Our first day in Kyoto is very typical of a first-time tourist, focusing in the eastern district of Higashiyama. Our day began at 7:00 at Kiyomizu-dera, one of the most popular temples in Kyoto. Understanding its popularity, we chose to visit early. Kiyomizu-dera also happens to be one of our favorite temples in Kyoto. We revisited Kiyomizu-dera: walked the temple ground, prayed at the main hall, and drank from the holy water. We also enjoyed some of the early autumn leaves that graced the temple precinct. We encountered only a few dozen tourists during our 75-minute visit, making it rather enjoyable.
From Kiyomizu-dera we made our way downhill on Sannen-zaka and Ninnen-saka, two photogenic streets lined with shops and cafes. Given our earlier hour, most were not yet open. We continued to Ryozen Kannon Temple, where we paid our respects to our patron bodhisattva. Next was Kodai-ji. Particularly enjoyable at Kodai-ji were its rock garden as well as its small bamboo forest. We continued to Maruyama Park and Yazaka Shrine, one of the locations where the famous Gion Matsuri takes place every year.
Two major temples followed: Chion-in and Shoren-in. We spent about 90 minutes at the former and 60 at the later. Dedicated to Pure Land Buddhism, Chion-in is one of the larger temples in Kyoto. The visit was also particularly enjoyable. We visited the main hall, with its breathtaking altar. Monks were chanting in the main hall while we were there. We joined in on chanting, prayed, wandered among its nightingale hallways for the creeking sound of the floorboards to significant the approach of someone, meandered in the gardens. While Shoren-in was under construction, the residential quarters was open for public viewing.
Our morning flew by. As we left southern Higashiyama, we had a choice to make: continue with our plans to visit northern Higashiyama or change course and do something different. It was already 2:00 by then and no way we could have completed what we initially set out on our original plans for the day. As a couple of us really wanted to return to Ginkaku-ji on this trip, we pressed ahead with our draft itinerary. Nanzen-ji, another vast temple complex with numerous subtemples, was next. We visited Nanzen-in, the Hojo garden, saw the aqueduct, and climbed the Sanmon. While we enjoyed our time at Nanzen-ji, it was also the most challenging given the significant crowds.
With the day fast closing on us, we dropped Eikan-do and Honen-in from our agenda and walked along the Path of Philosophy, and made a beeline for Ginkaku-ji. Our visit in 2012 was very memorable, and I knew I wanted to return this time. Unfortunately, even at 4:30, we competed with several school groups for space on the temple grounds. We intended to stay a full hour until closing time but wound up leaving around 5:00. The crowds were too much and took away from the otherwise Zen atmosphere. We did our best to enjoy the evening light at the Silver Pavilion and at the top of the mountain despite the frustration.
We ate dinner at Cenci, an Italian restaurant with Japanese inspirations, next to Heian Shrine, which we had also initially planned to visit on this day. The three-hour dinner, consisting of soup, greens, fish, and meat, was a relaxing end to our long first day.
Temples and More Temples
We awoke to a rainy morning in Kyoto. Instead of looking for breakfast, we settled for the Starbucks around the corner of our hotel. From there we headed to Kinkaku-ji by taxi before 9:00, the temple's opening time. Even though we were first to the gate, our dreams of enjoying the Golden Pavilion in peace and quiet were dashed within seconds. School group after school group arrived right before opening time; there must have been 15 to 20 groups. A couple of tour groups were on their heels. Like at Ginkaku-ji yesterday, we left quickly. Is it possible to enjoy Kyoto anymore, we thought?
Again we hopped in a cab, for off-the-tourist-circuit Ninna-ji. We wandered the temple grounds but couldn't enter any of its buildings - disappointing. We did visit the residential quarters of the head priest of the temple, which follows a similar layout to the ones at the other temples.
From northwest Kyoto we traveled by cab to the western suburb of Arashiyama, with its picturesque mountainside views. While koyo has not yet peaked here, there was some color among the trees. It was teeming with tourists as expected. We strolled Togetsu Bridge. For lunch, we dined at Shigetsu, located inside Tenryu-ji. Shigetsu served Buddhist vegetarian cuisine; the food was delicious. After lunch, we tried to visit the gardens at Tenryu-ji, but it was so packed with visitors that we didn't bother. The nearby bamboo forest attracted the same crowds. We checked out Okochi Sansho Villa nearby, which turned out to be our highlight of the day with the most vibrant maple leaves we've seen on our trip so far and without the crush of people no less. We spent a good hour strolling its paths, taking in the incredibly beautiful vistas of reds, yellows, and oranges, as well as the nearby mountains surrounding it.
We then walked to Daikaku-ji, another temple associated with the Japanese imperial family. We toured the residence and garden, with its great pond in the back.
From Daikaku-ji, we again hopped in a taxi, this time for To-ji, near Kyoto Station. As we are visiting in November, several temples in Kyoto open up to visitors in the evening. The temples are illuminated as are the maple trees and key landscape features. We tried to reserve tickets for the evening visit online, but to no avail, as we could not register without a Japanese phone number that accepts domestic SMS messages (we also tried to prebook for an early morning visit of Tufuku-ji but ran into the same problem; both are administered by the same Smart Ex app). So instead of 5:15, we had to wait to purchase tickets and be admitted at 6:00. In any case, the line moved quickly and there were no crowds as feared as people were spread out. The illuminated trees were beautiful, even if not at full peak color. The five-story pagoda that is the icon of To-ji, bathed in light, draws your eyes to it. We were also able to visit and offer our prayers at the two large halls with its numerous statues of Buddha and other deities. We stayed for about 45 minutes.
Dinner tonight was at Tousuiro, a restaurant off Oike-dori near the Kamo River that specializes in tofu. We walked off some of our dinner strolling through Pontocho Alley into the Gion District and back to our hotel via Shijo-dori.
Nov 17th, 2023, 11:50 PM
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Continuing to be impressed by the amount of ground Tp001 is covering. My daughter is doing fine. Had to call in my contacts in London, Tokyo and Philadelphia to find her an appropriate doctor but it has all worked out. I usually carry something that would have treated her but omitted them this trip for simplification. Tourism in Japan was much easier before about 2010. Since than tourist’s especially from China and Korea have surged. Only way around it is to go many places as early in the morning as possible. Went to Tsukiji market this am at 0800 and it was already getting crowded. Left by 0900 to go to Ahkihabara to shop for a phono cartridge than to Kappabashi to find a sujihiki knife.
Nov 18th, 2023, 01:50 AM
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tp001, don’t know if you are still in Kyoto but if you are a nice stop for coffee or tea and a snack is Mo-An. Hidden away on a small mountain top in the middle of Kyoto. A bit of a hike though well worth it for its peaceful surroundings. I would have mentioned it earlier but it completely slipped my mind until reading your last report on the crowds.
