What do you think about Candi Dasa? The Lonely Planet guide is down on it and I'd like more information.

If you have 30 days on Bali, it might be worth a trip. It is kind of out of the way from the normal tourist route however.

Stayed there a few years ago for a week one May, weather perfect. Our driver drove us from Ubud, it didn't seem to take too long. Quite beautiful scenery, mountains, rice paddies, sea. Beach was fairly filthy though, so didn't use it - took one snorkelling trip which was OK, but nothing compared to marine life and coral of Australia's Great Barrier Reef. Very quiet when we were there, often we were alone in restaurants. Its a lovely walk from Candi Dasi to walled village of Tenganan, famous for ikat weavers and gamelan music.

In the early 1980's a lot of the coral was removed from the sea for construction in the area...soon the beaches eroded away. Now, the coral is slowly coming back, with a lot of TLC. There is some very good diving and snorkeling in nearby Amed...about 30 minutes drive from Candidasa. There are several Bali Aga traditional villages nearby, as well as Besakih (the holiest temple in Bali), water palaces (Tirtagangga is the most famous). There are absolutely the most gorgeous rice terraces I have ever seen in this area.

The east coast area isn't overrun with tourists at all. That doesn't mean there aren't many lovely places to stay and eat. There is not, however, much in terms of nightlife beyond sitting around in a restaurant/warung with some other guests. The port of Padang Bai is the ferry port, and is still a traditional fishing village. Amlapura has a great market. Because of this, tourists who actually do go to east Bali have a very different experience than those who stay in the heavily touristed areas of Kuta/Legian/Seminyak/Jimbaren/Sanur/Ubud. It's more personal, less hassle, slower paced, not everyone wants to sell you something.

Should you go there? Depends on what you are looking for. If you want Kuta, then certainly don't go. If it sounds nice to you...by all means go. In Candidasa, the Watergarden hotel and Kubu Bali are next door to each other and very nice. There are many other places to choose from as well. In Amed, the Blue Moon Villas, the Dancing Dragon, Apa Kabar Villas, and the Santai have very good reputations as well. All have their own websites that are easily found with google. Between Amed and Candidasa is a place called Seraya Shores which seems very nice and welcoming. It's been written up quite a few times in a Bali blog that I read on occasion. Google Seraya Shores and you'll find lots on it too.

The east coast of Bali has a lot to offer, but it's not so easy to uncover.

Candi Dasa is, to me, an idea whose time has come and gone. Once (about 20 years ago) a charming alternative to Kuta, it was overdeveloped in a ticky-tack way. The beaches eroded and now that tourism is in decline I don't see much hope for a renaissance.

On the other hand there are several options in the area -- in addition to those mentioned by Kim, there are the Amankila and the Alila in nearby Manggis. The beaches are not particularly good (small, isolated), but the resorts are lovely and there is some good snorkling and SCUBA in the area.

Within driving distance are a lot of cultural attractions -- temples, archaelogical sites, textile centers plus profoundly beautiful scenery.