Burma at Last!
Dec 2nd, 2009, 07:11 PM
#42
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First, a short recap for Jules and others.
Our itinerary:
A half day and one night in Rangoon
Two full days and two half days and three nights at Inle Lake
The full days and three nights at Bagan
A day and a half and two nights in Rangoon.
Because out time was short, we were very focussed in Inle and in Bagan and saw a tremendous amount in a short time. It was so hot in Rangoon and we were tired enough from our travels that we used our Rangoon time mostly for relaxing. We had a great visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda. I would like to have done some shopping in Rangoon, but really only ended up looking. Given our limited time and our specific goals, I felt like we had about the right amount of time in each place.
Our itinerary:
A half day and one night in Rangoon
Two full days and two half days and three nights at Inle Lake
The full days and three nights at Bagan
A day and a half and two nights in Rangoon.
Because out time was short, we were very focussed in Inle and in Bagan and saw a tremendous amount in a short time. It was so hot in Rangoon and we were tired enough from our travels that we used our Rangoon time mostly for relaxing. We had a great visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda. I would like to have done some shopping in Rangoon, but really only ended up looking. Given our limited time and our specific goals, I felt like we had about the right amount of time in each place.
Dec 2nd, 2009, 07:28 PM
#43
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Reflections on Visiting Burma
I spent almost twenty years delaying a trip to Burma because of the terrible junta ruling Burma. I respected ASSK’s request that travelers boycott Burma.
So have I changed my mind about Burma and its government? Well, as dogster says, I can now see shades of gray where I once only saw blank and white. Having heard people’s personal stories only reinforces my view of the brutal military regime. So my perspective on the government has not changed. I am more convinced than ever that the junta is basically evil.
But I am not as convinced that the boycott by travelers and the economic sanctions have been effective tools against the government. The generals just keep getting richer and richer while the people get poorer and poorer. The natural resources of the country all belong to the generals. A number of people told us that all teak in the country belongs to the generals. It’s a similar situation with the ruby and jade mines. The government does not invest in infrastructure that would benefit the people, but instead spends its money on building a new capital out in the jungle with facilities for polar bears and underground tunnels in case of nuclear attack. You and I traveling or not traveling to Burma has no impact on that.
The people continue to suffer. A goodly amount of their suffering is economic. One man we spoke with said he thought the people wouldn’t care who rules the country as long as their lives were better.
When I decided at long last to go to Burma, I knew one of the ways I could help was by spending my money with locals. We did that. And we tipped generously, trying to spread our tourist dollars as widely as possible. I was impressed that visiting the areas of the hilltribes that have signed cease-fire agreements with the military government can benefit these ethic groups not only though employing individuals, but also by putting money into the coffers of the tribes who can then spend it to improve the lives of their people.
I keep recalling a conversation with a man at a restaurant over the water near Sankar. He asked me about the Great Lakes – are they fresh water or salt water? Fresh water, I told him. He nodded. I said that Inle is much more beautiful than the Great Lakes. His reply? “But we have no electricity and no doctors.”
My conversations with people after Obama’s speech at ASEAN reminded me how important it is for the people of Burma to know that people outside their country care about them, are aware of their plight.
In the last few years there has been more division in the National League for Democracy over the tourist boycott and even the economic sanctions. Reading the opinions of some of these people has been useful as well. See, for instance, The River of Lost Footsteps by Thant Myint-U and Ma Thanegi’s afterward to Native Tourist. I still have the utmost respect for ASSK. But I now understand that her way is not the only way. Will opening up the country more for visitors and foreign investment make things better for the people of Burma? I don’t know the answer to that, but I do know that the boycott and sanctions have not had their intended effect.
I spent almost twenty years delaying a trip to Burma because of the terrible junta ruling Burma. I respected ASSK’s request that travelers boycott Burma.
So have I changed my mind about Burma and its government? Well, as dogster says, I can now see shades of gray where I once only saw blank and white. Having heard people’s personal stories only reinforces my view of the brutal military regime. So my perspective on the government has not changed. I am more convinced than ever that the junta is basically evil.
But I am not as convinced that the boycott by travelers and the economic sanctions have been effective tools against the government. The generals just keep getting richer and richer while the people get poorer and poorer. The natural resources of the country all belong to the generals. A number of people told us that all teak in the country belongs to the generals. It’s a similar situation with the ruby and jade mines. The government does not invest in infrastructure that would benefit the people, but instead spends its money on building a new capital out in the jungle with facilities for polar bears and underground tunnels in case of nuclear attack. You and I traveling or not traveling to Burma has no impact on that.
The people continue to suffer. A goodly amount of their suffering is economic. One man we spoke with said he thought the people wouldn’t care who rules the country as long as their lives were better.
When I decided at long last to go to Burma, I knew one of the ways I could help was by spending my money with locals. We did that. And we tipped generously, trying to spread our tourist dollars as widely as possible. I was impressed that visiting the areas of the hilltribes that have signed cease-fire agreements with the military government can benefit these ethic groups not only though employing individuals, but also by putting money into the coffers of the tribes who can then spend it to improve the lives of their people.
I keep recalling a conversation with a man at a restaurant over the water near Sankar. He asked me about the Great Lakes – are they fresh water or salt water? Fresh water, I told him. He nodded. I said that Inle is much more beautiful than the Great Lakes. His reply? “But we have no electricity and no doctors.”
My conversations with people after Obama’s speech at ASEAN reminded me how important it is for the people of Burma to know that people outside their country care about them, are aware of their plight.
In the last few years there has been more division in the National League for Democracy over the tourist boycott and even the economic sanctions. Reading the opinions of some of these people has been useful as well. See, for instance, The River of Lost Footsteps by Thant Myint-U and Ma Thanegi’s afterward to Native Tourist. I still have the utmost respect for ASSK. But I now understand that her way is not the only way. Will opening up the country more for visitors and foreign investment make things better for the people of Burma? I don’t know the answer to that, but I do know that the boycott and sanctions have not had their intended effect.
Dec 2nd, 2009, 10:27 PM
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Thank you so Kathie much for taking the time to post so much detailed information about what sounds like an incredible trip. I'm leaving for Burma in about 3 weeks, so all of this is quite helpful and I've been looking forward to reading it. We're only going to Yangon (3 nights) & Bagan (4 nights). I feel like I should have so many more questions!! But the Burma trip reports on here have been extremely helpful.
It sounds like a detailed agenda for visiting the temples in Bagan isn't as necessary (as it was in Angkor, for example). Would you say that's true? I made an attempt at writing one out awhile ago but it got overwhelming as there are just so many temples and it's hard to get a sense of where they all are in relation to each other.
Do you think it would be worthwhile to try to "reserve" your Bagan horsecart driver in advance... or is that not really possible based on the system they use?
And I guess lastly, could you make any recommendations for restaurants in Bagan (lunch and dinner)? Or other affordable Yangon restaurants in addition to Monsoon?
It sounds like a detailed agenda for visiting the temples in Bagan isn't as necessary (as it was in Angkor, for example). Would you say that's true? I made an attempt at writing one out awhile ago but it got overwhelming as there are just so many temples and it's hard to get a sense of where they all are in relation to each other.
Do you think it would be worthwhile to try to "reserve" your Bagan horsecart driver in advance... or is that not really possible based on the system they use?
And I guess lastly, could you make any recommendations for restaurants in Bagan (lunch and dinner)? Or other affordable Yangon restaurants in addition to Monsoon?
Dec 3rd, 2009, 05:43 AM
#45
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Hi John, have a wonderful time in Burma. I agree that it isn't as necessary to have a detailed agenda for the temples in Bagan as in Angkor. The number of temples is really overwhelming. And some very interesting temples aren't named and are not in the books. Have you been able to locate Paul Strachan's Book, Pagan? If not pick up a copy in Yangon or Bagan.
I do think it would be worthwhile to arrange Minthu in advance. Advance arrangements with a driver are respected. But if you just show up and say you want Minthu, that may be more difficult.
For a special meal in Yangon, I'd recommend The Governor's Residence or the restaurants at the Strand. In Bagan, there are two restaurants between the Hotel at Tharbar Gate and the gate itself that are supposed to be good. Frankly, we didn't do as much "local" eating as we usually do. Overall, the Burmese food we ate was ok, but rather disappointing for us (who love Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian and Laotian foods).
Be conscious of making yourselves open to listening to the people you meet and you'll hear some fascinating and often, heartbreaking stories.
I do think it would be worthwhile to arrange Minthu in advance. Advance arrangements with a driver are respected. But if you just show up and say you want Minthu, that may be more difficult.
For a special meal in Yangon, I'd recommend The Governor's Residence or the restaurants at the Strand. In Bagan, there are two restaurants between the Hotel at Tharbar Gate and the gate itself that are supposed to be good. Frankly, we didn't do as much "local" eating as we usually do. Overall, the Burmese food we ate was ok, but rather disappointing for us (who love Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian and Laotian foods).
Be conscious of making yourselves open to listening to the people you meet and you'll hear some fascinating and often, heartbreaking stories.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 05:58 AM
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It is impossible I think to plan in advance the temples in Ba when I went to gan. There are so many and they are breathtaking.
The best meal I had was on my last day when I went to Nyaung U and ate Indian at Aroma 2. It was probably my best meal in Myanmar. Will try to finish my trip report as soon as possible. Also had a couple of decent lunches in old Bagan, at the vegetarian restaurants.
The Hotel manager made a list for me to show my horse cart driver on the various pagodas to see. I think we managed around 40+ or so in 2 days.
It realy seems that all the horse cart drivers are knowledgable, and yers they do have a priority system.
The best meal I had was on my last day when I went to Nyaung U and ate Indian at Aroma 2. It was probably my best meal in Myanmar. Will try to finish my trip report as soon as possible. Also had a couple of decent lunches in old Bagan, at the vegetarian restaurants.
The Hotel manager made a list for me to show my horse cart driver on the various pagodas to see. I think we managed around 40+ or so in 2 days.
It realy seems that all the horse cart drivers are knowledgable, and yers they do have a priority system.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 11:54 AM
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Bravo, Kathie. Fodor's should pay you!
Your afterword is an illustration of why it saddens me that Americans don't travel more. Estimates vary widely, but possibly between 15 and 25 percent of Americans hold passports (and that number has jumped wildly in the last couple of years because of the new passport requirements for Mexico and Canada). That's dismal, especially when you consider the small numbers of people that travel beyond North American/Carribbean countries, and the recent influx of immigrants, for whom a passport is de rigeur.
You can't really have a sophisticated understanding of the world without experiencing it, and even one trip, as Dogster suggests, allows only a narrow glimpse through tourist eyes.
Your afterword is an illustration of why it saddens me that Americans don't travel more. Estimates vary widely, but possibly between 15 and 25 percent of Americans hold passports (and that number has jumped wildly in the last couple of years because of the new passport requirements for Mexico and Canada). That's dismal, especially when you consider the small numbers of people that travel beyond North American/Carribbean countries, and the recent influx of immigrants, for whom a passport is de rigeur.
You can't really have a sophisticated understanding of the world without experiencing it, and even one trip, as Dogster suggests, allows only a narrow glimpse through tourist eyes.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 12:23 PM
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I echo the thanks.
I have a question for Kathie: Am I understanding correctly that the Ywa Ma market is to be avoided no matter which day one is in Inle Lake area? What would you suggest as the opportune time to set out for a lake excursion?
I have a question for Kathie: Am I understanding correctly that the Ywa Ma market is to be avoided no matter which day one is in Inle Lake area? What would you suggest as the opportune time to set out for a lake excursion?
Dec 3rd, 2009, 12:34 PM
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Thanks for all the encouragement. LAleslie, I have no illusions that I know the "truth" about Burma, but I do have a different prespective as a result of visiting. Like you, I'm appalled at how few Americans travel.
eks, For me, I would avoid Ywa Ma at all times. Others may feel differently.
I liked setting out at 6:30 each morning. Breakfast starts at 6, so you can have a little breakfast before heading out on the boat.
eks, For me, I would avoid Ywa Ma at all times. Others may feel differently.
I liked setting out at 6:30 each morning. Breakfast starts at 6, so you can have a little breakfast before heading out on the boat.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 06:24 PM
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The 'Reflections' entry was very well written. I came to a very similar conclusion after my visit. Still amazed that visting Burma was one of my best trips ever in spite of the political and economic woes.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 06:47 PM
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Dec 4th, 2009, 06:13 AM
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Bob, Cheryl does have some gtg photos. She said she'll post them of flicker when she gets a chance.
To view the photos as a manual slideshow, just click on the first photo on a page, then click next until you get through the whole page.
Mary, I will convey your thanks to Cheryl.
To view the photos as a manual slideshow, just click on the first photo on a page, then click next until you get through the whole page.
Mary, I will convey your thanks to Cheryl.
Dec 5th, 2009, 05:00 AM
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Kathie, tell Cheryl that I have gotten thru the pictures. They are great and I was a fraid to skip any as I would miss a really great one...and they all are. There are several that are really outstanding.
Was the "mist" in Began due to moisture, or smoke from cooking fires etc? Do you feel you really missed an esential event by not being able to do the Balloons?
Looking forward to the GTG pictures. Let us know when they are up.
Was the "mist" in Began due to moisture, or smoke from cooking fires etc? Do you feel you really missed an esential event by not being able to do the Balloons?
Looking forward to the GTG pictures. Let us know when they are up.
