Since our cheap-as-chips air fare to Ho Chi Minh City requires us to travel overland to Bangkok for an equally cheap-as-chips return flight to Sydney, we have decided to get off the beaten tourist track and spend a day and a night in Battambang.

There's not a great deal of information about this town, even if it is one of the largest cities in Cambodia. Has anyone been there, and, if so, can you tell us where we should be staying and what are the must-dos?

We will be travelling to there by train from Phnom Penh (apparently, there is one train a week, on Saturday), and from there by bus to the Thai border, from which, apparently, there is ample public transport to Bangkok. Any tips for this part of the journey would be much appreciated also.

Thanks!

My wife and I were there in January of this year. Honestly, for some reason, Battambang was ok, but didn't leave a big impression. But we weren't looking for anything particular to do though. We'd decided to stop for non-sightseeing reasons (to visit a wat where the monks work with orphans and aids prevention). It's a relaxed place really - much slower than Phnom Pehn. You'd hardly know it was the second largest city. Old colonial section overlooking the city and a big market in the center. Regret not getting the chance to ride one of the carts that use the rail tracks.

The Royal Hotel is billed as being the best in town, but it's pretty basic and a little pricey at $15 US for what it is.

How are you getting there (from where are you coming)?

From Siem Reap, the road via Sisophon is mind (and butt) numbingly bad... saw car after car on the side with broken springs, and we straddled a bridge once with a hole in it the size of a dinette table. The boat is said to take much longer than touted, especially in lower water period.

On the other hand, the road up from PP is well paved. If you're coming up from PP, I do have a recommendation, and that's to stop for a look at Kampong Chhnang. Not so much a sightseeing destination either but we did have such a good time there. Arranged a local boat with a young girl and her father for a look at the Cham floating village and took some motos out to a pottery cooperative in a nearby village. The areas known for it's clay pots. Had lots of chances for people wanting to talk to the visitors.

I did enjoy this side of the Tonle Sap quite a bit, but less for the sightseeing, and more for sort of connecting with local goings-on.

Enjoy your trip!

By the way, there's plenty of moto drivers looking to drive you to a list of Battambang sites, awaiting you outside any hotel.

Although Battambang is Cambodia's second largest city there is not much to see in the city itself. You have to go outside the town to see the more interesting sites. Easily done by hiring a motorcycle taxi or car. It is a quiet town, somewhat dusty and dirty but with a very friendly population. It has plenty of french colonial architecture (semi-neglected state), a large ordinary central market, and a handful of decent places to stay and eat. It is not really on the tourist route and therefore does not get that many tourists.

From Phnom Penh I would take the bus for the 5-6hr trip over a fairly good road. Cost around $4. Or take a share taxi for $6 per seat - take two for comfort. The train takes at least 12hrs if it runs at all and is very uncomfortable.

Hotels are not of the luxury kind but while basic they are clean and friendly. The best is a toss up between the Royal and Teo. The Star and Spring Park are newer hotels (no information on these) and the La Villa is overpriced for what you get.

In addition to touring the countryside you can take a ride on the Bamboo train and hire a small boat to explore the river.

To get to Bangkok you can take a mini bus for around $11 or take a bus or share taxi to Poipet, cross boarder and take tuk tuk to bus station in Aranyaprathet. Then bus to Bangkok.

Hallo
we went to Battambang in June and it was ok, quite nice. The best part of it was going for a Cambodian cooking lesson at the Smokin' Pot restaurant (nice name huh!) where you can get a guided tour of the market and learn how to cook 3 dishes. Besides that, we also took a tuk tuk out to see some temples - the roads are not very good at all! But I enjoyed seeing Wat Banom (although apparently not a scratch on Angkor Wat).

We stayed at the Teo hotel. They gave us the room under their meeting rooms. I kid you not, but we had scraping of chairs and furniture at 2 o'clock in the morning AND at 6 o'clock in the morning by some group meeting. So... I would not recommend the Teo...

Thanks so much for all these replies! Frankly, I am overwhelmed.... there is so little info on Battambang on the other travel sites that I thought I would be lucky to get even one reply here. But all this sudden information -- and so useful! -- is a wonderful surprise. And already I am changing our plans in response to thise advice; as much as I like train travel, twelve hours against five or six on the bus (from PP) would certainly make the bus trip a better option.... especially since it allows a stop at Kampon Chhnang (of whicjh I had never heard, but we will certainly include it, thank you, Clifton).

Thanks also to Scotters and bkkmei! I have saved all of this advice and will follow it carefully.

hiya
I just wanted to add a little something. The buses/coaches in cambodia are supposed to have aircon, but unlike in Thailand where it's on to uncomfortably cold levels, Cambodian bus aircon really isn't up to much. A paper fan helps! Also, a pair of ear plugs comes in handy as there will probably be a film on put on quite loud - which for 5 hours could be a little tough on the ears.

Actually, the buses we were on, the AC did ok. Probably varies between buses. We were on the Capitol Tour company bus (not an actual tour company, it's just public transport), one of a couple you could book from Battambang. We did have the karaoke loop running the whole way though. Pair after pair, full of easy listening tunes and starry eyed young love... so I agree with the earplugs. Not sure if any have onboard toilets, but ours did pull to the side of the road about halfway through, where the menfolk "stretched the legs", but the ladies had to wait a bit. A little further in, a stop was made at a roadside stand/shelter for local food - soup and rice, etc. A few rustic toilets in the back there.

The accomodations on the train wouldn't be so kind, I don't believe. Riding on the carriage roof is commonplace. More than half the cars are really just freight boxcars carrying people. Have a look at the pics at:

http://www.seat61.com/Cambodia.htm

I have to ride that train someday...

I agree, Clifton... one day I will take that train. But, after reading your post, I have decided that this time won't be "the" time, unless we can work out a way to do a part-bus plus part-train experience. The five -to-six hours on the bus gives us a good half-day to explore, whereas the whole-day train trip means that we are lucky if we can find a hotel before dark.... and searching for the right hotel is something I always like to do in daylight, with plenty of time up my sleeve (I am sure the hoteliers are expert at telling if you're feeling a bit desperate, and I'm sure that would be reflected in the price they quoted!)

True not a lot to see - just one of those places to wander around. Didn't have time to go on a moto tour out into the countryside though there were certainly plenty of eager young men wanting to take you there for less than $10US a day.

Don't understand the comment about the Royal Hotel being "pretty basic". Huge room, en suite bathroom, rooftop eatery (food not the best but perfectly acceptable). And all for $8.

The best thing about Battambang, though, is that you can travel from there to Siem Reap by boat (water levels and time of year permitting).

If that doesn't appeal - then for sure you can be back in BKK same day via taxi to Poipet, short walk, tuk-tuk and smart Thai bus.

Yes, let me re-phrase re: Royal. Basic does sound as though the facilities were lacking, which wasn't the case. In room facilities were perfectly fine and the room was large. The term I was looking for was non-descript. Can't say if there are still $8 rooms available or not.

Sunrise Cafe down the block, away from the market - good breakfasts.

We stayed at the Holiday Guesthouse in Kampong Chhnang. That was more basic, but still had a ensuite. No AC, no flush, but it had brick grate ventilation to the outside, a ceiling fan, was very clean and came with it's own small gecko . $5 if you want hot water. The owner was a interpreter to the UN during negotiations with the Khmer Rouge and is an interesting person to sit and talk with, I thought. KC also has another guesthouse in town, forget the name, but LP says it's where all the NGOs stay, so could be nicer.

Royal no longer $8. In the high season 2006\07 the rates are now around $20net. The Teo and Star are slighty over this and the La Villa over $50.