Back From Sri Lanka & Maldives
Jan 7th, 2012, 08:47 AM
#82
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Day 10
It’s a good idea to keep your curtains closed at night if you are staying in the back bedroom and have things youd prefer to keep private as your host will thoughtfully arrange breakfast on your veranda mere feet from your quarters (Picture 97). We settled onto the sunny terrace as our American breakfast was served which for hubs consisted of I think eggs and bacon and maybe even sausage and for me consisted of toasts and juice, which was actually just fine as I hadn’t had “bread” in days.
We found out our host was accompanying Oscar and us to Lipton’s Seat. At first we figured he just wanted to tag along but later they explained that b/c this is a Tamil area and Oscar spoke Sinhalese it was beneficial to have our Tamil host with us. Apparently this isn’t necessarily for “safety” so much as it is a courtesy….Anyhow, our host this day had on casual clothes (good style) and white horizontal markings on his forehead (Hindu). Oscar also had casual clothes on (this had been a day at leisure but if we requested Oscar’s assistance we were allotted a certain amount of mileage-Lipton’s Seat was well within our range).
A journey to Lipton’s Seat requires an early departure to ensure your views are not interrupted by the morning clouds. Driving up the mountains of tea country was really very lovely (Pictures 98-101) but cars can only go so far. There comes a point you have to abandon the car and walk. Oscar stayed back with the van while our host guided us first up steep steps, then more steps, then more steps. We get to the top and its very pretty and I think, that wasn’t too bad. Host takes our picture and we are talking and laughing and he says ready to continue? Continue? Oh yes, this isn’t the Seat…. …Oh. Onward and upward (Picture 102). I am slow. I had originally had my flips on which frankly wouldve been fine but our host had urged me to wear my tennies which you will recall from the trillion other steps I had climbed thus far are extremely heavy. It was labor-intensive but I suppose a labor of love as once we finally did reach the top (Picture 103) it was gorgeous . There is a general look out which is quite nice (Picture 104) but to get even higher you can pay the guy who runs the snack shop 50 rupees a piece and climb a ladder to a wooden fort-like structure: the Seat. Funny, this fort would never pass muster in the US, we laughed. Not that it was blatantly unsafe but if in the US it prob wouldve been enclosed in glass. It is quiet and peaceful and we are just in time to enjoy the views which, according to our host who has seen both views uncountable times, are superior to World’s End/Horton Plains (Pictures 105-108). Before long the clouds joined us (109).
There was a guestbook we were later presented and reading through apparently those before us had been offered tea while on the Seat. We wondered where our tea was. Much later we were offered but declined.
Unlike Sigiriya we felt we had a bit more time to chill here atop the fort. The guy we paid came up and talked with our host while we enjoyed the views and watched the clouds roll in. When we got down the guy let us pet his little baby kitten and his dog (Picture 110) which was nice as, again, I really missed our pet at home.
Going down as always was much easier and we returned to Oscar’s van in no time. After passing some gentleman sorting the tea leaves (Picture 111) we enjoyed the scenery (Picture 112) and spent the return trip saying stupid things in Tamil and/or Sinhalese to see if our hosts could translate into English. It was a good time for all.
Our Kelbourne host was really pushing hard to get us to tour another local tea factory. But Oscar confirmed what we figured: once you’ve seen one…. And really we just weren’t interested. There had been a monastery we had wanted to visit (Adisham) but it was closed that day-just something for future travelers to keep in mind.
We had earlier turned down an offer for the chef to make us lunch b/c we figured wed get something out after the Seat. Oscar dropped off our host and took us to the “village.” I put this in quotes b/c there is not a lot around this area for lunch or even snacks. Oscar stayed with the van as he pointed to a little alcove of a store where he suggested we try to find our snacks. First on the list: grapes. Had a craving. After a few charades we got grapes no problem. They were in a single bunch in the back of the store in what was apparently not only the sole refrigerator (Coke) but the only use of electricity for the operation. Hubs got cookies and an orange “soda.” And this is in quotes b/c it wasn’t soda really. He describes it as half orangina and half orange drink.
Next craving: pringles (which by the way I never eat at home but ate constantly on this trip). Or even the Sri Lankan generics: Mr Tapioca or Mr Crisp. I used my guidebook to look up the word for potato maybe (I forget how I tried to explain this). I was saying the word in Tamil but I guess my pronunciation was completely off b/c they had no idea what I was saying. Then, genius that I am, point to the word I am reading thinking if they see it in Tamil they will know what I am saying. So I keep pointing to this page and they all look at the page, look at me, and shake their head in that “I don’t know what you mean” way. So we skip the pringles and head back to the cottage which is when I realize what an idiot I am. Id been pointing the English pronunciation of the Tamil word. Duh. Of course they arent going to know that! I laughed at my stupidity and decided as my punishment I didn’t deserve those pringles anyway.
Upon return we noticed our host had thoughtfully pushed the two twin beds together and prepared them with sheets and blankets as if they were a double bed. We also noticed, and now is a good time to discuss the topic anyway, he folded up our clothing we had handwashed and laid in the sun to dry, undies and everything. We had handwashed all our clothing along the way. The water is…different than at home. The water…smells different than at home. So be prepared your clothes will also smell different after you’ve washed them in this water. Anyhow, clouds rolled in (Pictures 113, 114) and the afternoon was spent chilling and napping. Very relaxing.
Dinnertime was upon us and as I arrived in the dining room I shivered and wrapped myself in my arms. “Madam you are cold, would you like me to light a fire?” Ooooooooh yes! Yes yes yes indeed how nice (Picture 115)! Then I realized our host had set our lighting to the way I had set it the night before. How observant. Really. I loved it. Dinner was the same-basmati rice (yay!) and some ok curry (boo!). This evening we did take tea and asked that it be served by the fireplace and it was here we spent the night along with some trips to the terrace to look at the stars above and the few glimmers of light from those living in the valley below (Picture 116).
It’s a good idea to keep your curtains closed at night if you are staying in the back bedroom and have things youd prefer to keep private as your host will thoughtfully arrange breakfast on your veranda mere feet from your quarters (Picture 97). We settled onto the sunny terrace as our American breakfast was served which for hubs consisted of I think eggs and bacon and maybe even sausage and for me consisted of toasts and juice, which was actually just fine as I hadn’t had “bread” in days.
We found out our host was accompanying Oscar and us to Lipton’s Seat. At first we figured he just wanted to tag along but later they explained that b/c this is a Tamil area and Oscar spoke Sinhalese it was beneficial to have our Tamil host with us. Apparently this isn’t necessarily for “safety” so much as it is a courtesy….Anyhow, our host this day had on casual clothes (good style) and white horizontal markings on his forehead (Hindu). Oscar also had casual clothes on (this had been a day at leisure but if we requested Oscar’s assistance we were allotted a certain amount of mileage-Lipton’s Seat was well within our range).
A journey to Lipton’s Seat requires an early departure to ensure your views are not interrupted by the morning clouds. Driving up the mountains of tea country was really very lovely (Pictures 98-101) but cars can only go so far. There comes a point you have to abandon the car and walk. Oscar stayed back with the van while our host guided us first up steep steps, then more steps, then more steps. We get to the top and its very pretty and I think, that wasn’t too bad. Host takes our picture and we are talking and laughing and he says ready to continue? Continue? Oh yes, this isn’t the Seat…. …Oh. Onward and upward (Picture 102). I am slow. I had originally had my flips on which frankly wouldve been fine but our host had urged me to wear my tennies which you will recall from the trillion other steps I had climbed thus far are extremely heavy. It was labor-intensive but I suppose a labor of love as once we finally did reach the top (Picture 103) it was gorgeous . There is a general look out which is quite nice (Picture 104) but to get even higher you can pay the guy who runs the snack shop 50 rupees a piece and climb a ladder to a wooden fort-like structure: the Seat. Funny, this fort would never pass muster in the US, we laughed. Not that it was blatantly unsafe but if in the US it prob wouldve been enclosed in glass. It is quiet and peaceful and we are just in time to enjoy the views which, according to our host who has seen both views uncountable times, are superior to World’s End/Horton Plains (Pictures 105-108). Before long the clouds joined us (109).
There was a guestbook we were later presented and reading through apparently those before us had been offered tea while on the Seat. We wondered where our tea was. Much later we were offered but declined.
Unlike Sigiriya we felt we had a bit more time to chill here atop the fort. The guy we paid came up and talked with our host while we enjoyed the views and watched the clouds roll in. When we got down the guy let us pet his little baby kitten and his dog (Picture 110) which was nice as, again, I really missed our pet at home.
Going down as always was much easier and we returned to Oscar’s van in no time. After passing some gentleman sorting the tea leaves (Picture 111) we enjoyed the scenery (Picture 112) and spent the return trip saying stupid things in Tamil and/or Sinhalese to see if our hosts could translate into English. It was a good time for all.
Our Kelbourne host was really pushing hard to get us to tour another local tea factory. But Oscar confirmed what we figured: once you’ve seen one…. And really we just weren’t interested. There had been a monastery we had wanted to visit (Adisham) but it was closed that day-just something for future travelers to keep in mind.
We had earlier turned down an offer for the chef to make us lunch b/c we figured wed get something out after the Seat. Oscar dropped off our host and took us to the “village.” I put this in quotes b/c there is not a lot around this area for lunch or even snacks. Oscar stayed with the van as he pointed to a little alcove of a store where he suggested we try to find our snacks. First on the list: grapes. Had a craving. After a few charades we got grapes no problem. They were in a single bunch in the back of the store in what was apparently not only the sole refrigerator (Coke) but the only use of electricity for the operation. Hubs got cookies and an orange “soda.” And this is in quotes b/c it wasn’t soda really. He describes it as half orangina and half orange drink.
Next craving: pringles (which by the way I never eat at home but ate constantly on this trip). Or even the Sri Lankan generics: Mr Tapioca or Mr Crisp. I used my guidebook to look up the word for potato maybe (I forget how I tried to explain this). I was saying the word in Tamil but I guess my pronunciation was completely off b/c they had no idea what I was saying. Then, genius that I am, point to the word I am reading thinking if they see it in Tamil they will know what I am saying. So I keep pointing to this page and they all look at the page, look at me, and shake their head in that “I don’t know what you mean” way. So we skip the pringles and head back to the cottage which is when I realize what an idiot I am. Id been pointing the English pronunciation of the Tamil word. Duh. Of course they arent going to know that! I laughed at my stupidity and decided as my punishment I didn’t deserve those pringles anyway.
Upon return we noticed our host had thoughtfully pushed the two twin beds together and prepared them with sheets and blankets as if they were a double bed. We also noticed, and now is a good time to discuss the topic anyway, he folded up our clothing we had handwashed and laid in the sun to dry, undies and everything. We had handwashed all our clothing along the way. The water is…different than at home. The water…smells different than at home. So be prepared your clothes will also smell different after you’ve washed them in this water. Anyhow, clouds rolled in (Pictures 113, 114) and the afternoon was spent chilling and napping. Very relaxing.
Dinnertime was upon us and as I arrived in the dining room I shivered and wrapped myself in my arms. “Madam you are cold, would you like me to light a fire?” Ooooooooh yes! Yes yes yes indeed how nice (Picture 115)! Then I realized our host had set our lighting to the way I had set it the night before. How observant. Really. I loved it. Dinner was the same-basmati rice (yay!) and some ok curry (boo!). This evening we did take tea and asked that it be served by the fireplace and it was here we spent the night along with some trips to the terrace to look at the stars above and the few glimmers of light from those living in the valley below (Picture 116).
Jan 7th, 2012, 09:04 AM
#83
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Day 11
I felt like today our trip was really wrapping up and our departure from this amazing country was inevitable. Again, our host prepared breakfast on our terrace, this time adding a shade umbrella to the mix (observant, see!?). Afterwards he walks us out (Picture 117) and we say our goodbyes. Upon departure we take our final observations of tea pickers. We notice two ladies are close enough to the roadway that, hey, we think we can make it down! I ask Oscar if we can go: Sure! He says! I motion to the ladies in a gesture “Can I come down?” Yes! They nod and smile. Now, you might not be able to tell from the pictures but these hills are very steep. I had flips on and my feet were pushing so hard against that middle piece I thought it might break! I took the shoes off and continued weaving my way through the bushes. We smiled. I do not speak Tamil. They do not speak English. But through smiles and motions we are able to agree I can pick a tea leaf as they’ve demonstrated and place it in one of their bags! This may seem pretty mundane but I thought it was awesome! Someone, somewhere, is enjoying a warm mug of tea containing a leaf I picked! I motion “can I please take your picture?” they smile and nod (Pictures 118, 119). We had read before it is customary to offer a monetary thank you when one has allowed you to take their picture so we made this offering, which the ladies accepted. One of them also offered me a leaf she had picked to take with me. I will frame this. This is my souvenir from Sri Lanka (Picture 120)!
Afterwards, once wed checked for leaches, we settled into Oscars van for our long trip back to Colombo. The trip itself was uneventful-pretty scenery and interesting to watch people of Sri Lanka go about their daily activities. And of course, the obligatory cows in the roadway (Picture 121). We stopped for lunch at “Traveller’s Paradise” which offered some tasty short eats (Pictures 122, 123). Oscar never failed to point out various flora and fauna (e.g., rubber trees (Picture 124) had never seen one in person) which kept things interesting. We shared our Cliff bars with him which he never ate but instead saved as a treat to give his son afterwards (we later gave him one each of all the flavors we had).
Our final night in Sri Lanka was spent at the Tamarind Tree: http://thetamarindtreehotels.com/index1.html.
It looked perfect as we drove down the street lined with large regal trees. Our bungalow was clean, spacious, and contemporary (Pictures 125-128). Two things that I in particular liked: horses. This seemed quite random but for whatever reason there were two ponies/small horses tethered a few bungalows over. We approached and they showed interest (Pictures 129, 130), we gave some fruit, and laughed as they wrapped their giant fleshy lips around the fruit (Picture 131).
Later, we sat on our private porch just relaxing as dusk set in (Picture 132). We took a walk around the grounds and I saw a sight I wanted to capture-the silhouettes of birds in a tree against the purple sky. Hubs worked on getting a good photo (Picture 133) while I explored the nearby area. I noticed something scamper by-a kitty! Pss pss pss pss kitty kitty, and over she came (the only photograph I took wasnt a good one, Picture 134)! I pet her and she followed us back to our bungalow. Hubs went in to take a nap and I sat out with the little girl. She was quite vocal at first, doing a lot of meowing. She didn’t look thin and I didn’t have anything suitable to feed a kitty but I did offer her some water which she repeatedly rejected. Over the next hour or so she warmed up to me a bit. Shed lay at my feet and look up every once in a while to see if I was still there. Confirming my presence, shed lay her little head down again. She almost climbed onto my lap but stopped just short, still unsure so remaining cautious. After hearing a noise which I can only guess alerted her food was about to be served she scampered off and though I looked for her later on I did not see her again =(
Dinner that night and breakfast the following morning was served in their restaurant buffet style which had, for the first time Id seen in Sri Lanka, a salad bar. Ignoring the advice to avoid fresh vegetables I had a small scoop. Heaven. We have no complaints at all about this hotel.
Day 12
The next morning Oscar arrived to take us to the airport. We had tipped him every other day (more on that) and gave him a final cherry on top amount to show our appreciation. My eyes did tear a bit saying goodbye. Its funny how someone can have such an impact on you, but for it not to work in return. Like, sure Oscar prob “remembers” us but I assume at least to some extent we are just another couple he hosts. But for us he was so much more. I feel like one of those bud light commercials: heres to you mr show me around sri lanka man (holding up beer can in genuine appreciation).
Anyway, I was working hard internally to pull myself together but did get sad again when I saw that sign at customs:
<b>“We hope adventure followed you everywhere you went.”</b>
That it did.
I felt like today our trip was really wrapping up and our departure from this amazing country was inevitable. Again, our host prepared breakfast on our terrace, this time adding a shade umbrella to the mix (observant, see!?). Afterwards he walks us out (Picture 117) and we say our goodbyes. Upon departure we take our final observations of tea pickers. We notice two ladies are close enough to the roadway that, hey, we think we can make it down! I ask Oscar if we can go: Sure! He says! I motion to the ladies in a gesture “Can I come down?” Yes! They nod and smile. Now, you might not be able to tell from the pictures but these hills are very steep. I had flips on and my feet were pushing so hard against that middle piece I thought it might break! I took the shoes off and continued weaving my way through the bushes. We smiled. I do not speak Tamil. They do not speak English. But through smiles and motions we are able to agree I can pick a tea leaf as they’ve demonstrated and place it in one of their bags! This may seem pretty mundane but I thought it was awesome! Someone, somewhere, is enjoying a warm mug of tea containing a leaf I picked! I motion “can I please take your picture?” they smile and nod (Pictures 118, 119). We had read before it is customary to offer a monetary thank you when one has allowed you to take their picture so we made this offering, which the ladies accepted. One of them also offered me a leaf she had picked to take with me. I will frame this. This is my souvenir from Sri Lanka (Picture 120)!
Afterwards, once wed checked for leaches, we settled into Oscars van for our long trip back to Colombo. The trip itself was uneventful-pretty scenery and interesting to watch people of Sri Lanka go about their daily activities. And of course, the obligatory cows in the roadway (Picture 121). We stopped for lunch at “Traveller’s Paradise” which offered some tasty short eats (Pictures 122, 123). Oscar never failed to point out various flora and fauna (e.g., rubber trees (Picture 124) had never seen one in person) which kept things interesting. We shared our Cliff bars with him which he never ate but instead saved as a treat to give his son afterwards (we later gave him one each of all the flavors we had).
Our final night in Sri Lanka was spent at the Tamarind Tree: http://thetamarindtreehotels.com/index1.html.
It looked perfect as we drove down the street lined with large regal trees. Our bungalow was clean, spacious, and contemporary (Pictures 125-128). Two things that I in particular liked: horses. This seemed quite random but for whatever reason there were two ponies/small horses tethered a few bungalows over. We approached and they showed interest (Pictures 129, 130), we gave some fruit, and laughed as they wrapped their giant fleshy lips around the fruit (Picture 131).
Later, we sat on our private porch just relaxing as dusk set in (Picture 132). We took a walk around the grounds and I saw a sight I wanted to capture-the silhouettes of birds in a tree against the purple sky. Hubs worked on getting a good photo (Picture 133) while I explored the nearby area. I noticed something scamper by-a kitty! Pss pss pss pss kitty kitty, and over she came (the only photograph I took wasnt a good one, Picture 134)! I pet her and she followed us back to our bungalow. Hubs went in to take a nap and I sat out with the little girl. She was quite vocal at first, doing a lot of meowing. She didn’t look thin and I didn’t have anything suitable to feed a kitty but I did offer her some water which she repeatedly rejected. Over the next hour or so she warmed up to me a bit. Shed lay at my feet and look up every once in a while to see if I was still there. Confirming my presence, shed lay her little head down again. She almost climbed onto my lap but stopped just short, still unsure so remaining cautious. After hearing a noise which I can only guess alerted her food was about to be served she scampered off and though I looked for her later on I did not see her again =(
Dinner that night and breakfast the following morning was served in their restaurant buffet style which had, for the first time Id seen in Sri Lanka, a salad bar. Ignoring the advice to avoid fresh vegetables I had a small scoop. Heaven. We have no complaints at all about this hotel.
Day 12
The next morning Oscar arrived to take us to the airport. We had tipped him every other day (more on that) and gave him a final cherry on top amount to show our appreciation. My eyes did tear a bit saying goodbye. Its funny how someone can have such an impact on you, but for it not to work in return. Like, sure Oscar prob “remembers” us but I assume at least to some extent we are just another couple he hosts. But for us he was so much more. I feel like one of those bud light commercials: heres to you mr show me around sri lanka man (holding up beer can in genuine appreciation).
Anyway, I was working hard internally to pull myself together but did get sad again when I saw that sign at customs:
<b>“We hope adventure followed you everywhere you went.”</b>
That it did.
Jan 7th, 2012, 11:43 PM
#85
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"Their aubergine curry quickly became my favorite! Those string hoppers were good also! Oh, and forget the name (you may recall)-similar to pancakes? Yum!"....
The pancake like thong you refer to is called Hoppers (English) in local lingo it is called "aaappa". One could have them plain or with an egg on top and goes well with a variety of spicy curries, especially a "seeni sambol" (spicy onion sambol) and fish "ambul thiyal" a dark spicy tuna fish dish. Hoppers can also be had sweetened with palm sugar or treacle mmmmmm!
So glad to read your lovely trip report and that you have had a gret trip to Sr Lanka.
The pancake like thong you refer to is called Hoppers (English) in local lingo it is called "aaappa". One could have them plain or with an egg on top and goes well with a variety of spicy curries, especially a "seeni sambol" (spicy onion sambol) and fish "ambul thiyal" a dark spicy tuna fish dish. Hoppers can also be had sweetened with palm sugar or treacle mmmmmm!
So glad to read your lovely trip report and that you have had a gret trip to Sr Lanka.
Jan 8th, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Gmoz,
Stringhoppers are quite bland...they are just strands of vermicilli type noodles "caked" together.....it is what you have with them that makes them special.
Make sure you pour on plenty of "Arnung"(sp?),(a yellow,mild, broth) and sprinkle on some pol (coconut) sambol. Add your favorite curry and a hard boiled egg.....and presto...a meal fit for a king!!!!
NatureGirl,
Thanks for taking the time to finish off the Sri-Lanka leg of your trip report. I know how time consuming it can be. I am sure that there are many others here that have followed along....not just the ones who have commented.
Your travel style is refreshing and the way that you have conveyed your unique observations has been absorbing.
I am looking forward to your impressions of The Maldives and anything else that you choose to add.
If you get the time, consider compiling your writings and photos into a book. It is easy and affordable with the program that you download at www.blurb.com .I have put a few together and they are an excellent way to re-live your trip and share it with friends.
Stringhoppers are quite bland...they are just strands of vermicilli type noodles "caked" together.....it is what you have with them that makes them special.
Make sure you pour on plenty of "Arnung"(sp?),(a yellow,mild, broth) and sprinkle on some pol (coconut) sambol. Add your favorite curry and a hard boiled egg.....and presto...a meal fit for a king!!!!
NatureGirl,
Thanks for taking the time to finish off the Sri-Lanka leg of your trip report. I know how time consuming it can be. I am sure that there are many others here that have followed along....not just the ones who have commented.
Your travel style is refreshing and the way that you have conveyed your unique observations has been absorbing.
I am looking forward to your impressions of The Maldives and anything else that you choose to add.
If you get the time, consider compiling your writings and photos into a book. It is easy and affordable with the program that you download at www.blurb.com .I have put a few together and they are an excellent way to re-live your trip and share it with friends.
Jan 29th, 2012, 04:49 AM
#92
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I am a bad fodors-trip-report-giver. Free time is few and far between lately so I apologize for the delay in my posts and really hope that despite my erratic timing this will all prove helpful to someone, sometime.
Jan 29th, 2012, 05:18 AM
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We waited for our flight in a glass-walled room where nearly every seat was taken. While the plane was stopping in Maldives to let lucky folks like us off for a peak at paradise it was continuing on to London with the remaining suckers.
I rise to get some water from a nearby cooler and pass a heavy teenaged boy trying to pull himself from a too-tight sweater and wonder instantly if he is teased by cruel children.
I return with water and hubs and I continue our conversation. I hear someone say “How was your trip?” A few moments later, “Did you enjoy your time in Sri Lanka?” “How long were you in Sri Lanka?” It sounded like someone was on a phone conversation b/c you only heard questions, not answers. I see the teenager has moved across from us now. Because many people are around we do not realize the boy is talking to us. Now is a good time to explain my hubby is not “a people person.” Especially, well, annoying people which is what this fellow turned out to be-and I cringe a bit to even say that b/c I know it sounds mean but….
He says he heard us speak and knew we were Americans. He said he heard us asking about upgrading to first class. “Are you flying <i>economy</i>,” he asks. Yes, yes we are. “My dad always sends me first class.” “Do you know who my father is?” Eyes of those sitting nearby roll as the boy continues, haha. I am the only one purporting interest-and I am not interested, really. Not b/c he is annoying ("I've been with Del Griffith, I can handle anything") but b/c hubs and I were having our own conversations about the exciting things to come and I really wouldve prefered to return to that. But I am too concerned I may hurt his feelings if I excuse myself from the conversation so I stay and listen about his wealthy father, divorced-he lives with his mom, and the vacations they take, and the private school he attends (he is incredulous that I am not familiar with it, and further incredulous we did not know the latest cricket scores). I feel bad b/c I know people like this. Who talk, but do not listen, and yet are desperate to have a connection with others. (Wasn’t sure whether I would include this in my trip report but did so in case you have felt forced to endure the words of others while in a small area waiting for a flight.) Relief as “first class” is called and the boy disappears.
Onto more exciting things…
The water and surrounding islands as we approached landing in Maldives made me think I was crazy to be so sad to leave Sri Lanka when I had *this* on the horizon (Picture 135)! The airport is something between Colombo (very modern) and Dominican Republic (literally: hut). They check your bags for alcohol and any alcohol is taken and not returned. We had decided to get my Dad a bottle of Arrack as a souvenir but knew it would have to wait until the flight back to London. Anyway, alcohol-free, we make our way to a predetermined location to meet up with boat that will escort us to Banyan Tree! Excitement level is high high high! It is our tenth anniversary this very day and we are about to spend it in the middle of the Indian Ocean!
Not a huge deal, I recognize, but a personal disappointment: The guy who met us was talking on a cell phone, giving us hand-motions to the boat, whispering to us as he also listened to the caller, interrupting our answers when he had to respond to the person on the phone, providing no clear direction on the process. I have to say: I expected perfection on this portion of the trip. Sheer perfection. And this was not starting off well.
I rise to get some water from a nearby cooler and pass a heavy teenaged boy trying to pull himself from a too-tight sweater and wonder instantly if he is teased by cruel children.
I return with water and hubs and I continue our conversation. I hear someone say “How was your trip?” A few moments later, “Did you enjoy your time in Sri Lanka?” “How long were you in Sri Lanka?” It sounded like someone was on a phone conversation b/c you only heard questions, not answers. I see the teenager has moved across from us now. Because many people are around we do not realize the boy is talking to us. Now is a good time to explain my hubby is not “a people person.” Especially, well, annoying people which is what this fellow turned out to be-and I cringe a bit to even say that b/c I know it sounds mean but….
He says he heard us speak and knew we were Americans. He said he heard us asking about upgrading to first class. “Are you flying <i>economy</i>,” he asks. Yes, yes we are. “My dad always sends me first class.” “Do you know who my father is?” Eyes of those sitting nearby roll as the boy continues, haha. I am the only one purporting interest-and I am not interested, really. Not b/c he is annoying ("I've been with Del Griffith, I can handle anything") but b/c hubs and I were having our own conversations about the exciting things to come and I really wouldve prefered to return to that. But I am too concerned I may hurt his feelings if I excuse myself from the conversation so I stay and listen about his wealthy father, divorced-he lives with his mom, and the vacations they take, and the private school he attends (he is incredulous that I am not familiar with it, and further incredulous we did not know the latest cricket scores). I feel bad b/c I know people like this. Who talk, but do not listen, and yet are desperate to have a connection with others. (Wasn’t sure whether I would include this in my trip report but did so in case you have felt forced to endure the words of others while in a small area waiting for a flight.) Relief as “first class” is called and the boy disappears.
Onto more exciting things…
The water and surrounding islands as we approached landing in Maldives made me think I was crazy to be so sad to leave Sri Lanka when I had *this* on the horizon (Picture 135)! The airport is something between Colombo (very modern) and Dominican Republic (literally: hut). They check your bags for alcohol and any alcohol is taken and not returned. We had decided to get my Dad a bottle of Arrack as a souvenir but knew it would have to wait until the flight back to London. Anyway, alcohol-free, we make our way to a predetermined location to meet up with boat that will escort us to Banyan Tree! Excitement level is high high high! It is our tenth anniversary this very day and we are about to spend it in the middle of the Indian Ocean!
Not a huge deal, I recognize, but a personal disappointment: The guy who met us was talking on a cell phone, giving us hand-motions to the boat, whispering to us as he also listened to the caller, interrupting our answers when he had to respond to the person on the phone, providing no clear direction on the process. I have to say: I expected perfection on this portion of the trip. Sheer perfection. And this was not starting off well.
Feb 4th, 2012, 04:14 AM
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After departing with cell phone guy we boarded a very nice boat branded Banyan Tree. It was classic and plush inside and I wondered if this was how "the rich" travel.
There was only one other passenger. We smiled, I said hello. He asked if it was our first time to BTV. I answered yes. He replied "good choice," and pushed his life vest to the side a bit to reveal a BTV logo on his polo shirt. Turns out this was the head chef, Neil. We had actually been in contact with him previously when discussing meal options for the sandbank dining.
Oh right, I havent told you about the sandbank dining!
As if being in Maldives wasnt enough we were looking for something special to celebrate our anniversary. We saw sandbank dining on the BTV website and thought this might be neat. I should say, this type of thing isnt usually our bag. "This type of thing" being, I dont know, extras at a resort. We had stayed at Sivory in Punta Cana years ago and "beach dining" was an option. While we didnt opt for it we saw other couples who had. And basically, you are like 20 feet away from the rest of us dining (practically) on the beach in the open restaurant. We didnt see the excitement in paying hundreds of dollars for this.
Nonetheless, we thought we may only be here once and better safe than sorry-lets do it!
I should say, I was more optimistic that hubs. Which is usually the case for life in general, not just sandbank dining.
Anyway, there are mutliple menus you can choose from for this event, and you can go mornings, afternoons, or evenings (though I had read in previous reviews going during the day can be quite hot). We chose the dinner option not only b/c that worked best with our schedule but b/c there was something endlessly romantic about staring up at the stars together on our own little island in the middle of nowhere. The dinner menu, nor the other menus, fit our needs b/c a. i choose to avoid animal products and b. my husband is not a fan of seafood (many seafood choices). Neil emailed with us to create a personalized menu to accomdate our special night. But more on that later.
So we all shake hands and laugh at the chances of running into each other like this as I really wonder if maybe they always check out the guests beforehand in these "chance" encounters. maybe messaging to the team at the resort "these guys seem like real jerks," or whathaveyou.
The details are fading which is so so so sad but I beleive the boat ride was about 20 minutes or so. Excitement builds as Neill points out the little dot of an island which will be home for the next 5 days. We pull up to a large dock tastefully designed with seating and lighting. We are immediatley greeted by a hostess as fair-skinned as I and I wonder how she manages to so successfully avoid the sun working on the island. her long skirt flutters perfectly in the warm island breeze as she escorts us down the long wooden walkway linking the dock to the island as a gentleman followed behind, softly playing a drum. The world disappeared. The gentle beats played just for us as our feet sunk into the warm white sand of the Maldives.
There was only one other passenger. We smiled, I said hello. He asked if it was our first time to BTV. I answered yes. He replied "good choice," and pushed his life vest to the side a bit to reveal a BTV logo on his polo shirt. Turns out this was the head chef, Neil. We had actually been in contact with him previously when discussing meal options for the sandbank dining.
Oh right, I havent told you about the sandbank dining!
As if being in Maldives wasnt enough we were looking for something special to celebrate our anniversary. We saw sandbank dining on the BTV website and thought this might be neat. I should say, this type of thing isnt usually our bag. "This type of thing" being, I dont know, extras at a resort. We had stayed at Sivory in Punta Cana years ago and "beach dining" was an option. While we didnt opt for it we saw other couples who had. And basically, you are like 20 feet away from the rest of us dining (practically) on the beach in the open restaurant. We didnt see the excitement in paying hundreds of dollars for this.
Nonetheless, we thought we may only be here once and better safe than sorry-lets do it!
I should say, I was more optimistic that hubs. Which is usually the case for life in general, not just sandbank dining.
Anyway, there are mutliple menus you can choose from for this event, and you can go mornings, afternoons, or evenings (though I had read in previous reviews going during the day can be quite hot). We chose the dinner option not only b/c that worked best with our schedule but b/c there was something endlessly romantic about staring up at the stars together on our own little island in the middle of nowhere. The dinner menu, nor the other menus, fit our needs b/c a. i choose to avoid animal products and b. my husband is not a fan of seafood (many seafood choices). Neil emailed with us to create a personalized menu to accomdate our special night. But more on that later.
So we all shake hands and laugh at the chances of running into each other like this as I really wonder if maybe they always check out the guests beforehand in these "chance" encounters. maybe messaging to the team at the resort "these guys seem like real jerks," or whathaveyou.
The details are fading which is so so so sad but I beleive the boat ride was about 20 minutes or so. Excitement builds as Neill points out the little dot of an island which will be home for the next 5 days. We pull up to a large dock tastefully designed with seating and lighting. We are immediatley greeted by a hostess as fair-skinned as I and I wonder how she manages to so successfully avoid the sun working on the island. her long skirt flutters perfectly in the warm island breeze as she escorts us down the long wooden walkway linking the dock to the island as a gentleman followed behind, softly playing a drum. The world disappeared. The gentle beats played just for us as our feet sunk into the warm white sand of the Maldives.
Feb 22nd, 2012, 02:17 PM
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From the walkway you enter a large gazebo-the "lobby" were reception resides. The island is teeny tiny-you can see across to the other side. And while I didnt think of it at the time one giant wave and...well, you know. We were offered cold tea and cool towels (Picture 136) in welcome as our host explained the time difference (the island is an hour earlier than Male) and she urged us to set our watches to ensure we did not miss any of the resort events.
Once our picture was taken (immediately I figured this would be posted in the dorms for employee memorization) she urged us to take advantage of the seaside lunch that was nearly ending. As we had read in previous travel reports, the guests were entirely asian (save for 4 guests from England-no Americans) which we didnt care but figured Id confirm that is the case.
We approached the buffet and were immediately greeted by name. Not only that, they already knew of my dietary requests. I should say here that most places do not "cater" to an animal-free diet. Be it resorts or restaurants. And yes, we have been to nice ones =) My experience is typically: they offer a salad. Not really eating meat since 8th grade things have gotten better as vegetarianism/veganism has become more popular/trendy but it is still uncommon to have service I am about to describe.
I was escorted around and the chef personally described which items would be suitable. I was so appreciative of this. I had not even planned on asking-I figured I would stick to the basics (salad) and prob lose a few pounds while there. The complete opposite happened. I think I lost about 5 pounds trekking through Sri Lanka then gained 10 in Maldives!
Not only did the chef discuss the options available at each meal but he also prepared me special dishes throughout our stay. They made me so much tasty food I was never able to finish an entire meal! Bowls of curry, plates of tofu, piles of veggies-mm mm mmm! I felt like a queen as the dishes kept coming and coming out of the kitchen. Other guests looked on with keen interest, presumably wondering how/why I was getting these special meals. After talking with the chefs I learned this was a bit of a challenge for them that they found interesting. They had not been limited in such a way before to create dishes without animal products and it was a chance for them to put their creative talent to the test. They passed!
After lunch and the gorgeous view from our waterside table (Picture 137) we were escorted to our room. We paid for a Deluxe BeachFront Villa. There was so much forethought put into deciding which room I cant even tell you. At the same time it is a relatively important thing as you are spending a lot of money and want the best experience possible. So, Beachfront or Oceanfront, Deluxe or Standard? Which side of the island to request? What about those sandbags on the beach I kept reading about? I will begin by telling you what my research showed. Beachfront v. oceanfront: many seemed to think oceanfront, which is set back a bit, was "more private" than beachfront. For anyone wrestling with this decision allow me to set the record straight. Starting with the sandbags. I personally would rather not stay at a villa whose view includes the sandbags. I understand they serve a purpose but just saying-if you can have a villa that doesnt include the sandbags...Though perhaps these rooms are discounted, I dont know. In which case its better to stay at a room with sandbags than not stay at all =)
Each villa has a little porch, then a walkway leading to your private gazebo. None of the gazebos are secluded. Whether youre in an oceanfront or beachfront your gazebo is on the beach and you can see all your neighbors and all your neighbors can see you (waving: hi!). The only thing that may be more private for the oceanfront rather than the beachfront is the porch/front of your villa. We spent little time sitting here, however, if you plan to sit on the porch rather than gazebo you are set back a bit. People still see you but youre not front and center like you are for the beachfront. That said, If you like the idea of a completely unobstructed view of the beach and ocean (which we did) then go for the beachfront. It is more expensive for a reason =)
So my rec: beachfront rather than oceanfront.
Next decision: Standard villa or Deluxe. At the time, the Deluxe villas had been "upgraded" with regard to decor. I had no idea what this meant other than I presumed the standard villas were more outdated. Again, without having something to measure (I couldnt really find clear reviews that showed pictures of each) we chose to simply pay more and ensure we were getting the best of the best. While I did not see the interior of any other villas I can only say I was more than pleased with ours).
The island is set up in a circle with reception and bar and eating and spa at say six o'clock. The villas circle the perimeter of the island and the employees stay in dorms in the center. You walk through sandy walkways to a sandy path to a private door. Here is your "bell" employees ring, a mailbox which gives you an itinerary of the days activities, and a cute sign to signify "make up my room." Finally you walk along a shorter sandy path with stepping stones to your entrance (Pictures 138-146).
As we entered our villa relaxing music was playing, scented oil was burning (Picture 147), and the waves crashed in front of us through the large glass doors leading to the beach. Well, "crashing" is a strong word. "Lapping," maybe.
The decor was fine. I had no complaints. I would decorate differently, however, it could have been a lot lot worse. So, again, I felt pleased with the results. After recovering from the breathtaking view wed be enjoying for the next few days we took a look around. The tall snail-like ceiling, the flowers and anniversary wishes on the bed, and a wittle turtle-wed later learn wed receive a goodie like him each day the room was made up for us (Pictures 147-159).
The bathroom is really very nice. Plenty of storage in the closet-which came equipped with banyan tree robes and flips (NB on the flips: they are in the drawers). Lots of nice touches like the cute soap containers and the little flowers in the soap dishes (Picture 160-165). An indoor and an outdoor shower. We usually opted for the outdoor b/c hey when else do you have the opportunity (Picture 167)? While there is a door separating the villa living space from the bathroom, there is no door separating the potty from, well, the world. So anything you do you are doing out of doors.
Doing things outside you dont normally do outside caused a bit of paranoia. Not REALLY. Well, maybe kinda. But not really... I will admit as I was under the shower stream or sitting on the potty Id look around and make sure there were no "gaps" in the wood around us or blank spaces that were forgotten about such that one might peer, even accidentally, into our private garden.
The only thing "meh" about the bathroom was the jaccuzi (Picture 168). Ours didnt always heat. I think maybe he had run his course in life and was on his last legs. Even if he did work hot tubs I think would be cooler. And BTV agrees as they are upgrading (by now it may already be done since I know it seems I am taking my sweet time writing this).
Now for what weve all been waiting for (Picture 168)!
The porch with a little sitting area (Picture 169) (highly recommend having breakfast delivered to your villa. Not only can you enjoy the meal solo and right by the sea you get to pick what you want-after days on end of curry in Sri Lanka and congee (japanese) and baked beans (english-i dont blame them one bit as they are simply making assumptions based on their experience-but if you are white in sri lanka/maldives you are assumed to be from Great Britain and they really think you must love baked beans for breakfast-it was funny) on previous morning at BTV hubs was quite happy to order "an american breakfast." The one morning we had breakfast on our porch was the best. I wouldve done it every morning prior if Id known how perfect it was going to be). Then the wooden walkway with trees on one side for privacy and shade to house a hammock (ahhhhhh the hammock. We spent countless hours together in the hammock-despite that hole in the upper right weave which caused our bottoms to scoot across the sand as the gentle breeze rocked us to napland) and your private gazebo (Pictures 170-172). Heaven. Just heaven. Heading back to your villa from the beach there is a cute water container with a flower floating within and a giant ladle laying across to clean sand from your feet. The day we arrived I saw a little sticker floating inside-the number 10. Naturally, I figured someone, somewhere, somehow, had made that 10 appear b/c we were there celebrating our 10th anniversary (Picture 173-175).
So now we have begun to take in our amazing surroundings we are left on our own before for a few hours before we need to meet at the dock to take our private boat to our private island for our private sandbank dining experience! Of course, we put on our bathing suits!
Here is something to keep in mind when requesting which part of the island youd like (and we requested "secluded, we dont care about sun," basically): the island is encircled by an awesome reef. you can snorkel within that area and see some awesome stuff. BUT you can also snorkel beyond the reef if youd like. To do this you have to follow along the inner reef until you get to a channel where you can swim through and go out to sea. Depending on where your villa is you might have to swim a bit to get to a channel. This is by no means a huge deal-just pointing out how convenient this was for our location b/c there was a channel close by. We seemed to have the best of both worlds (inner reef AND sea)...though I chose to stay in one world (inner reef).
Once our picture was taken (immediately I figured this would be posted in the dorms for employee memorization) she urged us to take advantage of the seaside lunch that was nearly ending. As we had read in previous travel reports, the guests were entirely asian (save for 4 guests from England-no Americans) which we didnt care but figured Id confirm that is the case.
We approached the buffet and were immediately greeted by name. Not only that, they already knew of my dietary requests. I should say here that most places do not "cater" to an animal-free diet. Be it resorts or restaurants. And yes, we have been to nice ones =) My experience is typically: they offer a salad. Not really eating meat since 8th grade things have gotten better as vegetarianism/veganism has become more popular/trendy but it is still uncommon to have service I am about to describe.
I was escorted around and the chef personally described which items would be suitable. I was so appreciative of this. I had not even planned on asking-I figured I would stick to the basics (salad) and prob lose a few pounds while there. The complete opposite happened. I think I lost about 5 pounds trekking through Sri Lanka then gained 10 in Maldives!
Not only did the chef discuss the options available at each meal but he also prepared me special dishes throughout our stay. They made me so much tasty food I was never able to finish an entire meal! Bowls of curry, plates of tofu, piles of veggies-mm mm mmm! I felt like a queen as the dishes kept coming and coming out of the kitchen. Other guests looked on with keen interest, presumably wondering how/why I was getting these special meals. After talking with the chefs I learned this was a bit of a challenge for them that they found interesting. They had not been limited in such a way before to create dishes without animal products and it was a chance for them to put their creative talent to the test. They passed!
After lunch and the gorgeous view from our waterside table (Picture 137) we were escorted to our room. We paid for a Deluxe BeachFront Villa. There was so much forethought put into deciding which room I cant even tell you. At the same time it is a relatively important thing as you are spending a lot of money and want the best experience possible. So, Beachfront or Oceanfront, Deluxe or Standard? Which side of the island to request? What about those sandbags on the beach I kept reading about? I will begin by telling you what my research showed. Beachfront v. oceanfront: many seemed to think oceanfront, which is set back a bit, was "more private" than beachfront. For anyone wrestling with this decision allow me to set the record straight. Starting with the sandbags. I personally would rather not stay at a villa whose view includes the sandbags. I understand they serve a purpose but just saying-if you can have a villa that doesnt include the sandbags...Though perhaps these rooms are discounted, I dont know. In which case its better to stay at a room with sandbags than not stay at all =)
Each villa has a little porch, then a walkway leading to your private gazebo. None of the gazebos are secluded. Whether youre in an oceanfront or beachfront your gazebo is on the beach and you can see all your neighbors and all your neighbors can see you (waving: hi!). The only thing that may be more private for the oceanfront rather than the beachfront is the porch/front of your villa. We spent little time sitting here, however, if you plan to sit on the porch rather than gazebo you are set back a bit. People still see you but youre not front and center like you are for the beachfront. That said, If you like the idea of a completely unobstructed view of the beach and ocean (which we did) then go for the beachfront. It is more expensive for a reason =)
So my rec: beachfront rather than oceanfront.
Next decision: Standard villa or Deluxe. At the time, the Deluxe villas had been "upgraded" with regard to decor. I had no idea what this meant other than I presumed the standard villas were more outdated. Again, without having something to measure (I couldnt really find clear reviews that showed pictures of each) we chose to simply pay more and ensure we were getting the best of the best. While I did not see the interior of any other villas I can only say I was more than pleased with ours).
The island is set up in a circle with reception and bar and eating and spa at say six o'clock. The villas circle the perimeter of the island and the employees stay in dorms in the center. You walk through sandy walkways to a sandy path to a private door. Here is your "bell" employees ring, a mailbox which gives you an itinerary of the days activities, and a cute sign to signify "make up my room." Finally you walk along a shorter sandy path with stepping stones to your entrance (Pictures 138-146).
As we entered our villa relaxing music was playing, scented oil was burning (Picture 147), and the waves crashed in front of us through the large glass doors leading to the beach. Well, "crashing" is a strong word. "Lapping," maybe.
The decor was fine. I had no complaints. I would decorate differently, however, it could have been a lot lot worse. So, again, I felt pleased with the results. After recovering from the breathtaking view wed be enjoying for the next few days we took a look around. The tall snail-like ceiling, the flowers and anniversary wishes on the bed, and a wittle turtle-wed later learn wed receive a goodie like him each day the room was made up for us (Pictures 147-159).
The bathroom is really very nice. Plenty of storage in the closet-which came equipped with banyan tree robes and flips (NB on the flips: they are in the drawers). Lots of nice touches like the cute soap containers and the little flowers in the soap dishes (Picture 160-165). An indoor and an outdoor shower. We usually opted for the outdoor b/c hey when else do you have the opportunity (Picture 167)? While there is a door separating the villa living space from the bathroom, there is no door separating the potty from, well, the world. So anything you do you are doing out of doors.
Doing things outside you dont normally do outside caused a bit of paranoia. Not REALLY. Well, maybe kinda. But not really... I will admit as I was under the shower stream or sitting on the potty Id look around and make sure there were no "gaps" in the wood around us or blank spaces that were forgotten about such that one might peer, even accidentally, into our private garden.
The only thing "meh" about the bathroom was the jaccuzi (Picture 168). Ours didnt always heat. I think maybe he had run his course in life and was on his last legs. Even if he did work hot tubs I think would be cooler. And BTV agrees as they are upgrading (by now it may already be done since I know it seems I am taking my sweet time writing this).
Now for what weve all been waiting for (Picture 168)!
The porch with a little sitting area (Picture 169) (highly recommend having breakfast delivered to your villa. Not only can you enjoy the meal solo and right by the sea you get to pick what you want-after days on end of curry in Sri Lanka and congee (japanese) and baked beans (english-i dont blame them one bit as they are simply making assumptions based on their experience-but if you are white in sri lanka/maldives you are assumed to be from Great Britain and they really think you must love baked beans for breakfast-it was funny) on previous morning at BTV hubs was quite happy to order "an american breakfast." The one morning we had breakfast on our porch was the best. I wouldve done it every morning prior if Id known how perfect it was going to be). Then the wooden walkway with trees on one side for privacy and shade to house a hammock (ahhhhhh the hammock. We spent countless hours together in the hammock-despite that hole in the upper right weave which caused our bottoms to scoot across the sand as the gentle breeze rocked us to napland) and your private gazebo (Pictures 170-172). Heaven. Just heaven. Heading back to your villa from the beach there is a cute water container with a flower floating within and a giant ladle laying across to clean sand from your feet. The day we arrived I saw a little sticker floating inside-the number 10. Naturally, I figured someone, somewhere, somehow, had made that 10 appear b/c we were there celebrating our 10th anniversary (Picture 173-175).
So now we have begun to take in our amazing surroundings we are left on our own before for a few hours before we need to meet at the dock to take our private boat to our private island for our private sandbank dining experience! Of course, we put on our bathing suits!
Here is something to keep in mind when requesting which part of the island youd like (and we requested "secluded, we dont care about sun," basically): the island is encircled by an awesome reef. you can snorkel within that area and see some awesome stuff. BUT you can also snorkel beyond the reef if youd like. To do this you have to follow along the inner reef until you get to a channel where you can swim through and go out to sea. Depending on where your villa is you might have to swim a bit to get to a channel. This is by no means a huge deal-just pointing out how convenient this was for our location b/c there was a channel close by. We seemed to have the best of both worlds (inner reef AND sea)...though I chose to stay in one world (inner reef).
Feb 23rd, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to come back and give us your impressions of the Maldives.
I LOVED all the detail. I dont think that I will get the chance to go there and I am not even sure that I want to, but the way you have written about it made me feel like I WAS there.
I LOVED all the detail. I dont think that I will get the chance to go there and I am not even sure that I want to, but the way you have written about it made me feel like I WAS there.
Feb 23rd, 2012, 04:15 PM
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Hi shanek I was afraid Id lost you for good! Im so glad you are still reading!
I have prob a couple more things to say about my time in the Maldives-hoping to wrap things up this weekend!
Any news on your pending Sri Lanka visit?! You must share details if you decide to go! We are thinking of trying to recreate some SL dishes this weekend. Aubergine curry for me, of course =)
I have prob a couple more things to say about my time in the Maldives-hoping to wrap things up this weekend!
Any news on your pending Sri Lanka visit?! You must share details if you decide to go! We are thinking of trying to recreate some SL dishes this weekend. Aubergine curry for me, of course =)
Apr 7th, 2012, 06:43 AM
#100
hi naturegirl,
just reviving your thread to say thank you for such and well-writtten and informative TR. we are close to opting for a trip to Sri Lanka this year to attend a few of the T20 tournament cricket matches taking place between Sept and October [your 1st class friend would approve!] and tour the island as well.
would you recommend your tour agency? so far I've found red.dot, boutique sri lanka, quickshaws, and now this one. how easy did you find them to work with? one of the problems I find with trips to completely new places is that you don't know what questions to ask, ["unknown unknowns", so to speak] and so possibly don't get the best out of the trip. did you find that was a problem?
just reviving your thread to say thank you for such and well-writtten and informative TR. we are close to opting for a trip to Sri Lanka this year to attend a few of the T20 tournament cricket matches taking place between Sept and October [your 1st class friend would approve!] and tour the island as well.
would you recommend your tour agency? so far I've found red.dot, boutique sri lanka, quickshaws, and now this one. how easy did you find them to work with? one of the problems I find with trips to completely new places is that you don't know what questions to ask, ["unknown unknowns", so to speak] and so possibly don't get the best out of the trip. did you find that was a problem?
