bob1010

After a lot of research, here's what we did. Hanoi for two nights, at the Metropole--a great, historic, atmospheric hotel. An overnight on Halong Bay with Indochina Junk. (see reviews on TripAdvisor for details). A driver supplied by Indochina Junk to Ninh Binh where we stayed at Tam Coc Garden Resort for two nights to ride bikes around the inland karasts, etc. Then a driver to Mai Chau where we stayed at Mai Chau Ecolodge in the midst of rice fields and small villages. Driver back to Hanoi for a flight to Hue, with a night there at the Sofitel to visit the Citadel, and a driver down to Danang/Hoi An where we stayed at the Nam Ha, now Four Seasons, which was awesome. Hoi An itself was a circus, completely taken over by crazy tourists. Flight from Danang to Hanoi to Luang Prabang, for four nights at the Belmond (although the Sofitel would have been a good choice too) and local transport up to Nong Khiaw for two nights. Happy to provide details on request. Overall impressions: the north of vietnam suffers from extreme air pollution--the kind you feel in your chest. Laos rocks. Luang Prabang is worth the trip by itself. Sort of a cross between Mexico and Carmel, California. Hard to describe but captivating with something to offer almost anyone--good food, good hotels, good outdoor activities, and proximity to more rural, less touristy places. If you like rustic, head north.

CaliNurse

Bob, thank you for the report! Made me smile, my memories of some of same route and hotels you did. Interesting about the air pollution, only becuaew I don't recall it in late September . Was that ub Hanoi or the industrialized area en route to Ninh Binh-(soon after leaving the HaLong Port)? Also, interesting take on Hoi An, which many say is a must-see aside from the tourists.
LP always sounds intriguing , including on your description. One of these days...

susiesan

Bob I'll be doing a similar trip to yours in 2 weeks in reverse. Start in hanoi, fly to Danang then drive to Hoi An, Hue, Phong Nha. Fly back to Hanoi then out to Ninh Binh and Mai Chau with a driver, then back to Hanoi.

If air in Hanoi has gotten that bad I'm going to pack decongestants and allergy meds. Thanks for the warning.

CaliNurse

Sorry for typos--my post should say "was the air bad in Hanoi or the industrialized area en route to Ninh Binh?"

crellston

I too am surprised you found the pollution in the north extreme . I have spent several month in northern Vietnam and never experienced any problems at all. On the other hand, we had to leave Luang Prabang one March because it became unbearable. We had taken a boat down river from Thailand and over two days it was like sitting in a bonfire.

However, I totally agree with your comments re the circus that is Hoi An. Like Angkor wat, interesting place but just way too many people. I wish they would do something to limit numbers, mayb likemtehy do in Machu Picchu but this is Vietnam and it is never going to happen!

maxx71294

I am glad you had a good time. I, too, enjoyed my stay at the Metropole hotel when I visited Hanoi in 2012.