A Month in India
Dec 9th, 2011, 02:04 PM
#61
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Narlai – Our Rajasthan Retreat
We made two major stops after leaving Udaipur: Kumbalgarh Fort and Ranakpur Temple. Kumbalgarh Fort was the most impressive fort we have visited so far, probably because of its isolated location way up in the mountains. The fortress consists of about 25 miles of impregnable walls enclosing hundreds of temples and palaces. We had no guide here, but we enjoyed wandering around the picturesque site on our own.
Our second stop was even better – the Jain temple at Ranakpur. This white marble edifice is a forest of 1,444 pillars all carved with exquisite designs. The ceilings were even better carved with a delicate, lacy look.
The head priest of the temple latched on to us right away and gave us a brief tour. He also gave us a lengthy blessing that included the usual Indian wish for wealth and prosperity. Of course, he was also concerned about his own prosperity and requested an immediate donation. I convinced my husband that $2 for a blessing was a good thing especially since admission to the temple was free. And besides, when will we ever have the opportunity to be blessed by a Jain priest?
My favorite carvings were a ceiling design that combined the “om” symbol with a half moon, and a figure with one head and 5 bodies. This sculpture represented the need to control the 5 senses before entering the temple.
Our new hotel, Rawla Narlai is a little bit of heaven – totally luxurious with gorgeous gardens, a rooftop terrace, and a huge pool (perfect for swimming laps). All situated at the base of a massive rock. This rock became my husband’s nemesis because he really wanted to climb up to the large white elephant statue sitting tantalizingly on the summit, but we just didn’t have the energy.
That night, we ate a candlelit dinner on the roof terrace where waiters fell all over themselves taking care of us, and live music created an eerie-sounding background out there in the middle of nowhere.
Two staff members took a particular liking to us: Umaid and Lala (we are not making these names up). I think we could have eaten breakfast all day long – they kept offering to bring us more toast, butter, and what about some more tea? My husband tried to sign on to the netbook while I wandered around the gardens. When I looked back, Umaid was holding up a cloth napkin trying to reduce the glare from the morning sun on the netbook. Later, my husband walked up on the terrace to gaze at that rock above us, and of course, “the boys” were on him in a second. Soon, Umaid and Lala had goaded my husband into trying on each of their turbans while they took pictures of him. This is really too much!
The resort offered a complimentary outing to a nearby lake for afternoon tea. This was a fun ride in an open jeep; it was like a mini-safari. We saw numerous birds including a turquoise blue Kingfisher, and lots of peacocks in the wild! The lake was very pretty, especially as the sun started to set, and our jeep driver supplied us with hot masala tea along with muffins and brownies for an added treat.
Our favorite Narlai activity was a 2-hour village tour with Lala as our guide. Our tour began at a temple built inside the huge dome-shaped rock – the rocky mountain actually consists of layers of rock, and this temple was built into a crevice. The temple contained a metal sculpture of a cobra, and Lala told us that during festivals the people bring in a live cobra, milk it, and drink the cobra milk!
Lala took us into several village homes giving us the opportunity for a closer look at village life. We met a shoemaker, a seamstress, and a woman who was grinding wheat into flour for the village. The most memorable home consisted of three rooms -- the middle room designated for the cow! Lala also pointed out the nicely swept dirt floor that was a mixture of dirt and dried cow dung (these people sure love their dung!).
My most memorable moment came when I got to join several local women who had congregated on the front steps of one of the homes. These women were a trip! They kept slapping my leg (hard) – like they couldn’t believe how hefty it was LOL.
But the main focus of the conversation was on jewelry. The older woman pointed to the younger woman’s necklace and said something in a stage whisper that I assumed must have been the price. I acted suitably impressed, and before I knew it, the old lady had wrapped the necklace around my neck (and pulled it tight – almost like a garrote!). Of course, my husband was having a ball taking pictures. It really was an unforgettable experience.
As we strolled about town, my husband’s big moment came later when he spotted a tiny barber shop; really, it was just a small, outhouse-sized metal box on the edge of a busy street that was big enough for the barber to stand, a customer to sit, and some primitive barber tools. From a distance, my husband carefully watched this “Edward Scissorhand operation” for a while, and decided it was a good time to cast fate to the wind, and get his hair cut. The barber was very meticulous, and he not only cut my husband's hair but also trimmed his beard and moustache, and topped it all off with a lengthy head massage -- all for $1.
We made two major stops after leaving Udaipur: Kumbalgarh Fort and Ranakpur Temple. Kumbalgarh Fort was the most impressive fort we have visited so far, probably because of its isolated location way up in the mountains. The fortress consists of about 25 miles of impregnable walls enclosing hundreds of temples and palaces. We had no guide here, but we enjoyed wandering around the picturesque site on our own.
Our second stop was even better – the Jain temple at Ranakpur. This white marble edifice is a forest of 1,444 pillars all carved with exquisite designs. The ceilings were even better carved with a delicate, lacy look.
The head priest of the temple latched on to us right away and gave us a brief tour. He also gave us a lengthy blessing that included the usual Indian wish for wealth and prosperity. Of course, he was also concerned about his own prosperity and requested an immediate donation. I convinced my husband that $2 for a blessing was a good thing especially since admission to the temple was free. And besides, when will we ever have the opportunity to be blessed by a Jain priest?
My favorite carvings were a ceiling design that combined the “om” symbol with a half moon, and a figure with one head and 5 bodies. This sculpture represented the need to control the 5 senses before entering the temple.
Our new hotel, Rawla Narlai is a little bit of heaven – totally luxurious with gorgeous gardens, a rooftop terrace, and a huge pool (perfect for swimming laps). All situated at the base of a massive rock. This rock became my husband’s nemesis because he really wanted to climb up to the large white elephant statue sitting tantalizingly on the summit, but we just didn’t have the energy.
That night, we ate a candlelit dinner on the roof terrace where waiters fell all over themselves taking care of us, and live music created an eerie-sounding background out there in the middle of nowhere.
Two staff members took a particular liking to us: Umaid and Lala (we are not making these names up). I think we could have eaten breakfast all day long – they kept offering to bring us more toast, butter, and what about some more tea? My husband tried to sign on to the netbook while I wandered around the gardens. When I looked back, Umaid was holding up a cloth napkin trying to reduce the glare from the morning sun on the netbook. Later, my husband walked up on the terrace to gaze at that rock above us, and of course, “the boys” were on him in a second. Soon, Umaid and Lala had goaded my husband into trying on each of their turbans while they took pictures of him. This is really too much!
The resort offered a complimentary outing to a nearby lake for afternoon tea. This was a fun ride in an open jeep; it was like a mini-safari. We saw numerous birds including a turquoise blue Kingfisher, and lots of peacocks in the wild! The lake was very pretty, especially as the sun started to set, and our jeep driver supplied us with hot masala tea along with muffins and brownies for an added treat.
Our favorite Narlai activity was a 2-hour village tour with Lala as our guide. Our tour began at a temple built inside the huge dome-shaped rock – the rocky mountain actually consists of layers of rock, and this temple was built into a crevice. The temple contained a metal sculpture of a cobra, and Lala told us that during festivals the people bring in a live cobra, milk it, and drink the cobra milk!
Lala took us into several village homes giving us the opportunity for a closer look at village life. We met a shoemaker, a seamstress, and a woman who was grinding wheat into flour for the village. The most memorable home consisted of three rooms -- the middle room designated for the cow! Lala also pointed out the nicely swept dirt floor that was a mixture of dirt and dried cow dung (these people sure love their dung!).
My most memorable moment came when I got to join several local women who had congregated on the front steps of one of the homes. These women were a trip! They kept slapping my leg (hard) – like they couldn’t believe how hefty it was LOL.
But the main focus of the conversation was on jewelry. The older woman pointed to the younger woman’s necklace and said something in a stage whisper that I assumed must have been the price. I acted suitably impressed, and before I knew it, the old lady had wrapped the necklace around my neck (and pulled it tight – almost like a garrote!). Of course, my husband was having a ball taking pictures. It really was an unforgettable experience.
As we strolled about town, my husband’s big moment came later when he spotted a tiny barber shop; really, it was just a small, outhouse-sized metal box on the edge of a busy street that was big enough for the barber to stand, a customer to sit, and some primitive barber tools. From a distance, my husband carefully watched this “Edward Scissorhand operation” for a while, and decided it was a good time to cast fate to the wind, and get his hair cut. The barber was very meticulous, and he not only cut my husband's hair but also trimmed his beard and moustache, and topped it all off with a lengthy head massage -- all for $1.
Dec 10th, 2011, 06:52 AM
#65
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As I'm loving your report, I just had to re-read your trip report from China. I'm curious how you compare the two trips. China will be our adventure next year. Although my husband was less reluctant to do a 4th trip to Asia without a break in between, the price of travel to Europe has convinced him to further explore the Asian continent!
Dec 10th, 2011, 08:43 AM
#66
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We too used to be Europe die-hards, but we too have been venturing in different directions in the past 4 to 5 years specifically because the dollar is so weak against the euro. And, knowing how we approached those European trips, zeroing in on a smaller area for a more in-depth experience is making planning for India really difficult because I am trading off the way I know we prefer to travel--slower and more quality--for trying to see many different places. I honestly just don't know if we'll return to India the way we have to Europe (western, central and eastern) time after time, and that is why I am trying to get a tste of several different regions.
Dec 11th, 2011, 04:45 PM
#69
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
dgunbug -- It's tough to compare India with China. We thoroughly enjoyed both, but the experiences were quite different. China was worlds easier to do on our own; no difficulty there. However, China does not come close to India in terms of being exotic. I might give the Taj the edge over The Great Wall, but both were spectacular. Beijing and Shanghai are both fabulous cities that are easy to wander on your own. I would go with China for food (never got sick!) and offered more variety. India for accomodations since we stayed in so many lovely heritage properties (but beds are hard in both countries LOL). Sorry, I am kind of babbling here. Not sure if this helps -- both are topnotch destinations.
Dec 12th, 2011, 07:23 AM
#71
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jojawar – Land of the Raj (Landlords)
We drove just 2 hours to our next stop, another small out-of-the-way town with another heritage hotel, Rawla Jojawar (Royal Jojawar). This hotel was more basic that previous hotels, but still walled and insulated somewhat from the bustle of local activity; it was a nice respite from the real world. (It’s not easy to follow an act like the last place, the Rawla Narlai!)
We got a real Rajasthan welcome from a drummer who announced our arrival with an energetic drum roll. And, the manager sprinkled flower petals over our heads as we walked thru the arched gates of the hotel. I loved that!
We had two small but fun activities planned in Jojawar: a jeep tour of this rural area, and an old-time train excursion in an old-time train! The jeep tour was conducted by the owner of the hotel, a genuine Raj (landlord) and landowner of properties all around the area of Jojawar. We visited a really nice farm where my husband, the former farm boy, got to relive some memories of his youth growing up on the farm. They grow lots of cotton here and also castor plants (to make castor oil). The land is dry, and it would be desert, were it not for the plethora of wells designated for irrigation.
We saw lots of monkeys here – in fact, one of them jumped right on top of the jeep’s rear roll bar and sat there for several minutes! We also visited the home of some gypsies who travel to wherever work is available. And we stopped at a temple that was memorable mainly for its large population of rats. The trees were full of rats as darkness began to take over.
It was well after dark by the time we drove back to the hotel, and we were amazed how the back roads seemed to come to life after dark. Lots of cars, motorcycles, and people just sitting along the road in total darkness. The Raj told us that the people sitting in the dark were “waiting for someone.” Could be, but sounds a bit odd, doesn’t it? It is pitch black along these dirt back roads, yet people sit there seemingly idle along these roads, or tend cattle there in total darkness, or do who knows what(?).
The next day, we were driven to a train station to catch our old-time train back to Jojawar. We were surprised to see how many tourists were waiting for the train with us. Apparently, this excursion has become quite popular. The train excursion was fun as we rode through desert conditions and mountainous terrain on this rickety local train. We enjoyed the scenery and riding with the locals. In fact, a group of 4 locals sat with us and we chatted in broken English and Hindi as we sped along. Lots of warm but fuzzy conversation – not sure there was total comprehension on either side, but lots of good feelings.
The train stopped several times for “brake checks,” and once to feed the monkeys who were panhandling along the side of the tracks. These monkeys know exactly when the trains come thru and gather by the tracks to eat the biscuits everybody throws out the train windows. All the train windows had bars, and when we saw how aggressive these monkeys were, we knew why.
We ended our day with a full body ayurvedic massage – a stimulating deep massage to increase circulation and encourage relaxation. Certainly relaxed us!
We drove just 2 hours to our next stop, another small out-of-the-way town with another heritage hotel, Rawla Jojawar (Royal Jojawar). This hotel was more basic that previous hotels, but still walled and insulated somewhat from the bustle of local activity; it was a nice respite from the real world. (It’s not easy to follow an act like the last place, the Rawla Narlai!)
We got a real Rajasthan welcome from a drummer who announced our arrival with an energetic drum roll. And, the manager sprinkled flower petals over our heads as we walked thru the arched gates of the hotel. I loved that!
We had two small but fun activities planned in Jojawar: a jeep tour of this rural area, and an old-time train excursion in an old-time train! The jeep tour was conducted by the owner of the hotel, a genuine Raj (landlord) and landowner of properties all around the area of Jojawar. We visited a really nice farm where my husband, the former farm boy, got to relive some memories of his youth growing up on the farm. They grow lots of cotton here and also castor plants (to make castor oil). The land is dry, and it would be desert, were it not for the plethora of wells designated for irrigation.
We saw lots of monkeys here – in fact, one of them jumped right on top of the jeep’s rear roll bar and sat there for several minutes! We also visited the home of some gypsies who travel to wherever work is available. And we stopped at a temple that was memorable mainly for its large population of rats. The trees were full of rats as darkness began to take over.
It was well after dark by the time we drove back to the hotel, and we were amazed how the back roads seemed to come to life after dark. Lots of cars, motorcycles, and people just sitting along the road in total darkness. The Raj told us that the people sitting in the dark were “waiting for someone.” Could be, but sounds a bit odd, doesn’t it? It is pitch black along these dirt back roads, yet people sit there seemingly idle along these roads, or tend cattle there in total darkness, or do who knows what(?).
The next day, we were driven to a train station to catch our old-time train back to Jojawar. We were surprised to see how many tourists were waiting for the train with us. Apparently, this excursion has become quite popular. The train excursion was fun as we rode through desert conditions and mountainous terrain on this rickety local train. We enjoyed the scenery and riding with the locals. In fact, a group of 4 locals sat with us and we chatted in broken English and Hindi as we sped along. Lots of warm but fuzzy conversation – not sure there was total comprehension on either side, but lots of good feelings.
The train stopped several times for “brake checks,” and once to feed the monkeys who were panhandling along the side of the tracks. These monkeys know exactly when the trains come thru and gather by the tracks to eat the biscuits everybody throws out the train windows. All the train windows had bars, and when we saw how aggressive these monkeys were, we knew why.
We ended our day with a full body ayurvedic massage – a stimulating deep massage to increase circulation and encourage relaxation. Certainly relaxed us!
Dec 13th, 2011, 02:23 PM
#72
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jodhpur – The Blue City
Jodhpur was a fairly routine (at least routine to us now) 4-hour drive away. We stayed at Ratan Villas with lovely owners (descendants of a Maharajah) and very spacious accommodations. Jodhpur is known as the Blue City because of the many blue buildings in the old city. Interestingly, one of the main industries here in Jodhpur was opium (used only for pharmaceuticals today). BTW, we are on the edge of the Great Thar Desert, the 10th largest desert in the world. Ever hear of it? Neither did we! Supposedly, one of the reasons Indians like bright colors so much is because of the dull brown colors of the desert.
Our guide named Ragu (spaghetti anyone?) led us on a walk through the downtown markets that felt a little like “been there, done that” -- until the bullfight. Two young bulls had literally locked horns right in the center of a pedestrian street. We didn’t fully understand the danger until Ragu hustled us into one of the shops. These bulls were raging! We realized that these thousand pound plus creatures could pin us up against a building or a stone wall in an instant, and that was why we were hustled inside to safety. Finally, some brave soul threw a pail of water on the bulls to cool them off, and they ran after each other down a side street. Whew! Almost like running with the bulls in Pamplona LOL!
The next day, we toured Mehrangarh Fort. We honestly thought we might be all “forted out,” but we totally enjoyed this marvelous site and the excellent narration on the accompanying audio guide. The fort was built in 1459 by the founder of Jodhpur, Rao Jodha, who was the original leader of this region called Marwar (Land of Death). Sounds sinister, but the name is fitting when you hear how many warriors died here in various battles.
From the hilltop where the fort resides, we could see the city of Jodhpur below. Many of the buildings were colored a light blue, hence the name, the “Blue City”. The color blue is supposed to make the buildings feel cooler in the extreme heat of the summer, and it also repels the mosquitos.
The fort was a delightful feast of graceful architecture with many colorful rooms like the elaborate dancing hall with giant Christmas balls hanging from the ceiling (we see these everywhere and learned that they were adopted from the British). The fort also included several museums with displays of howdahs (elephant seats) and palanquins (covered carts to carry royal women so that they remained hidden from view).
Another museum contained dozens of royal cradles exquisitely decorated – many with guardian angels poised to protect the young royals. Astrology is extremely important in India and every child must have a chart drawn to know what pitfalls to avoid. Having an astrological chart drawn is as important here as cutting the umbilical cord!
There were two very tragic sights at the fort. The first concerned a hermit who was evicted from this site when Rao Jodh decided to build a fort here. The hermit cursed Rao, and to obviate the curse, Rao required a human sacrifice. Some guy volunteered and was buried alive in the foundation of the fort (a plaque marks the spot). To this day, an annual ceremony commemorates his sacrifice and his descendants continue to be honored.
The second tragic sight is the “sati” marks, handprints of the Maharajah Man Singh’s many wives who climbed on to his funeral pyre in 1843. They left their handprints in henna (a colored dye used to decorate the palms of the hands) on the wall of the fort as they passed by in a procession that would lead to their deaths. Later, the little handprints were carved into orange stone. They say these women sat calmly as the flames engulfed them, anxious to be reunited with their beloved husband. Those women must have been doped up on some serious opium!
This is a good time to talk about the status of women in India. I can tell you from personal experience that men are definitely top dogs here. Every morning, the hotel staff would rush over to my husband saying, “Good morning, sir!” “How are you, sir?” “Would you like breakfast, sir?” Even our driver Rampal constantly opened the car door for my husband leaving me to fend for myself. And when I took the lead in a conversation – discussing where we were headed next, or what activities were planned for the day, the Indian men would get a perplexed look on their faces as if they were thinking, “Why is she talking?” These are small irritations but indicative of how women are viewed here.
For many years, Indians followed a custom called “purdah,” the practice of concealing women to “protect them from the lustful gaze of men -- an idea that came from the Arab invaders. This is why palace after palace contains stone screens so that women can get a (fractured) glimpse of the world without ever being seen.
A Maharini once visited London, but she remained hidden from view. She was always transported in a curtained car and a covered palanquin. As you can imagine, the English press went wild trying to get a photo of her, but all they got was a glimpse of her ankle. The Hindu royalty was so furious about this photo of their Maharini’s ankle that they bought and destroyed every single issue of the newspapers that would have exposed her ankle to the world.
Even today, some of these crazy ideas continue. Remember Parvati from a previous report of ours - The “Parvati’s Meeta” story? Parvati wore several bangle bracelets on her arms and ankle bracelets that tinkled as she walked. She told me that she lived with her extended family, and that the women tended to stay in one part of the house. Parvati’s bangles and ankle bracelets were noisy enough to warn the men of the house to leave if they heard her coming. As Parvati explained, “That way I am never alone with my brother-in-law, so there are no problems.” It’s as if there is an assumption that no man can resist or restrain himself around a woman, so the only answer is complete separation of the sexes.
Jodhpur was a fairly routine (at least routine to us now) 4-hour drive away. We stayed at Ratan Villas with lovely owners (descendants of a Maharajah) and very spacious accommodations. Jodhpur is known as the Blue City because of the many blue buildings in the old city. Interestingly, one of the main industries here in Jodhpur was opium (used only for pharmaceuticals today). BTW, we are on the edge of the Great Thar Desert, the 10th largest desert in the world. Ever hear of it? Neither did we! Supposedly, one of the reasons Indians like bright colors so much is because of the dull brown colors of the desert.
Our guide named Ragu (spaghetti anyone?) led us on a walk through the downtown markets that felt a little like “been there, done that” -- until the bullfight. Two young bulls had literally locked horns right in the center of a pedestrian street. We didn’t fully understand the danger until Ragu hustled us into one of the shops. These bulls were raging! We realized that these thousand pound plus creatures could pin us up against a building or a stone wall in an instant, and that was why we were hustled inside to safety. Finally, some brave soul threw a pail of water on the bulls to cool them off, and they ran after each other down a side street. Whew! Almost like running with the bulls in Pamplona LOL!
The next day, we toured Mehrangarh Fort. We honestly thought we might be all “forted out,” but we totally enjoyed this marvelous site and the excellent narration on the accompanying audio guide. The fort was built in 1459 by the founder of Jodhpur, Rao Jodha, who was the original leader of this region called Marwar (Land of Death). Sounds sinister, but the name is fitting when you hear how many warriors died here in various battles.
From the hilltop where the fort resides, we could see the city of Jodhpur below. Many of the buildings were colored a light blue, hence the name, the “Blue City”. The color blue is supposed to make the buildings feel cooler in the extreme heat of the summer, and it also repels the mosquitos.
The fort was a delightful feast of graceful architecture with many colorful rooms like the elaborate dancing hall with giant Christmas balls hanging from the ceiling (we see these everywhere and learned that they were adopted from the British). The fort also included several museums with displays of howdahs (elephant seats) and palanquins (covered carts to carry royal women so that they remained hidden from view).
Another museum contained dozens of royal cradles exquisitely decorated – many with guardian angels poised to protect the young royals. Astrology is extremely important in India and every child must have a chart drawn to know what pitfalls to avoid. Having an astrological chart drawn is as important here as cutting the umbilical cord!
There were two very tragic sights at the fort. The first concerned a hermit who was evicted from this site when Rao Jodh decided to build a fort here. The hermit cursed Rao, and to obviate the curse, Rao required a human sacrifice. Some guy volunteered and was buried alive in the foundation of the fort (a plaque marks the spot). To this day, an annual ceremony commemorates his sacrifice and his descendants continue to be honored.
The second tragic sight is the “sati” marks, handprints of the Maharajah Man Singh’s many wives who climbed on to his funeral pyre in 1843. They left their handprints in henna (a colored dye used to decorate the palms of the hands) on the wall of the fort as they passed by in a procession that would lead to their deaths. Later, the little handprints were carved into orange stone. They say these women sat calmly as the flames engulfed them, anxious to be reunited with their beloved husband. Those women must have been doped up on some serious opium!
This is a good time to talk about the status of women in India. I can tell you from personal experience that men are definitely top dogs here. Every morning, the hotel staff would rush over to my husband saying, “Good morning, sir!” “How are you, sir?” “Would you like breakfast, sir?” Even our driver Rampal constantly opened the car door for my husband leaving me to fend for myself. And when I took the lead in a conversation – discussing where we were headed next, or what activities were planned for the day, the Indian men would get a perplexed look on their faces as if they were thinking, “Why is she talking?” These are small irritations but indicative of how women are viewed here.
For many years, Indians followed a custom called “purdah,” the practice of concealing women to “protect them from the lustful gaze of men -- an idea that came from the Arab invaders. This is why palace after palace contains stone screens so that women can get a (fractured) glimpse of the world without ever being seen.
A Maharini once visited London, but she remained hidden from view. She was always transported in a curtained car and a covered palanquin. As you can imagine, the English press went wild trying to get a photo of her, but all they got was a glimpse of her ankle. The Hindu royalty was so furious about this photo of their Maharini’s ankle that they bought and destroyed every single issue of the newspapers that would have exposed her ankle to the world.
Even today, some of these crazy ideas continue. Remember Parvati from a previous report of ours - The “Parvati’s Meeta” story? Parvati wore several bangle bracelets on her arms and ankle bracelets that tinkled as she walked. She told me that she lived with her extended family, and that the women tended to stay in one part of the house. Parvati’s bangles and ankle bracelets were noisy enough to warn the men of the house to leave if they heard her coming. As Parvati explained, “That way I am never alone with my brother-in-law, so there are no problems.” It’s as if there is an assumption that no man can resist or restrain himself around a woman, so the only answer is complete separation of the sexes.
Dec 13th, 2011, 04:13 PM
#74
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know what you mean. I often felt uncomfortable or at least very aware that I was in the minority. I even had some young men who kept following us around and staring at me. My husband thought it was funny, but it made me uneasy (what young guys stare at an almost 60 year-old woman?) I think it was just that they had never seen a western woman before. They finally asked to have a picture taken with me, I complied, and then they went on their way.
Dec 13th, 2011, 04:24 PM
#75
The Brits outlawed sati, much to the disgust of the Indians. There are still occasional cases of women committing sati - one was turned into a saint by the locals. Unfortunately, the lot of widows in India is pretty awful. Also unfortunately, another old custom, child marriage, is still in existence. And then there are the dowry murders...
"the Indian men would get a perplexed look on their faces as if they were thinking, “Why is she talking?” " - I am a solo female traveler. I'm sure that attitude was behind the consistent trouble I had getting my Indian drivers to do what I wanted.
I did notice more women wearing non-traditional dress when I was in India last year, and I think attitudes may be better in the south, where Muslim attitudes had less effect.
"the Indian men would get a perplexed look on their faces as if they were thinking, “Why is she talking?” " - I am a solo female traveler. I'm sure that attitude was behind the consistent trouble I had getting my Indian drivers to do what I wanted.
I did notice more women wearing non-traditional dress when I was in India last year, and I think attitudes may be better in the south, where Muslim attitudes had less effect.
Dec 13th, 2011, 04:27 PM
#76
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay -- final update:
Delhi – Back to Delhi and Back to the USA
Our flight leaving Jodhpur for Delhi was delayed for over an hour. Of course, we had no idea what was going on since the announcements were unintelligible and there was no English signage of any kind in the airport. The flight was a dream when it finally arrived; a flashy new turbo prop high wing ATR-72/500 took us from Jodhpur to Delhi in little more than an hour. We were so happy to return to Amarya Haveli Hotel in Delhi where we got a warm welcome from the familiar staff who remembered us from our previous visit.
The next day we revisited the Hauz Khas Village for some final shopping. And, we visited one last sight: “The Sulabh International Museum of Toilets!” Seems fitting somehow. You may wonder how I came up with this one, but the museum is listed in Lonely Planet. It was actually quite fascinating, and let’s face it, human waste is a major problem here in India (and around the globe).
We got a tour of several outdoor toilet and septic configurations, all geared to using local materials for construction. We learned about their efforts to filter polluted water for reuse -- for flushing toilets, irrigation, and other non-drinking purposes. And how they extract methane gas directly from the outhouse to produce electricity or to cook food on the stove. We noted that this system is not quite perfected yet, as there is the distinctive smell of methane, which smells strangely like burning poop… Inside, a small museum room held all kinds of interesting info about the history of toilets along with some hysterical pictures and posters.
Now we are back home – yes, back in the good ‘ol U.S. of A., but the sights and sounds of India continue to dance in our heads. We started this Trip Report by saying that many people think India stands for “I’ll never do it again.” We don’t fall into that camp although it will take a while to work up to a return trip (LOL!).
Instead, we would say that India stands for:
I = intense
N = needy
D = draining
I = intoxicating
A = astonishing
India is definitely not a destination for everyone. It was a challenge even for us who consider ourselves to be seasoned travelers having visited other 3rd world countries. We thought we’d already encountered a bit of everything, but India proved us wrong.
And yet, we are so glad that we came. India is without equal, and without a doubt one of the most unusual, confounding, but alluring places on earth. Our trip here required us to employ all of our acquired travel skills -- and brought us as close to traveling thru time as anything we have ever done.
One thing is definitely true: every one of the human senses will be tested to the max by exposure to India. The colors, the smells, the extreme poverty, the heat, the plethora and variety of animals, the religious anomalies, the traffic, the smiling friendly people, the lack of amenities, and the frenetic passion of the country will stay with us for a long, long time. To steal a phrase from Winston Churchill, India is “a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma.”
Delhi – Back to Delhi and Back to the USA
Our flight leaving Jodhpur for Delhi was delayed for over an hour. Of course, we had no idea what was going on since the announcements were unintelligible and there was no English signage of any kind in the airport. The flight was a dream when it finally arrived; a flashy new turbo prop high wing ATR-72/500 took us from Jodhpur to Delhi in little more than an hour. We were so happy to return to Amarya Haveli Hotel in Delhi where we got a warm welcome from the familiar staff who remembered us from our previous visit.
The next day we revisited the Hauz Khas Village for some final shopping. And, we visited one last sight: “The Sulabh International Museum of Toilets!” Seems fitting somehow. You may wonder how I came up with this one, but the museum is listed in Lonely Planet. It was actually quite fascinating, and let’s face it, human waste is a major problem here in India (and around the globe).
We got a tour of several outdoor toilet and septic configurations, all geared to using local materials for construction. We learned about their efforts to filter polluted water for reuse -- for flushing toilets, irrigation, and other non-drinking purposes. And how they extract methane gas directly from the outhouse to produce electricity or to cook food on the stove. We noted that this system is not quite perfected yet, as there is the distinctive smell of methane, which smells strangely like burning poop… Inside, a small museum room held all kinds of interesting info about the history of toilets along with some hysterical pictures and posters.
Now we are back home – yes, back in the good ‘ol U.S. of A., but the sights and sounds of India continue to dance in our heads. We started this Trip Report by saying that many people think India stands for “I’ll never do it again.” We don’t fall into that camp although it will take a while to work up to a return trip (LOL!).
Instead, we would say that India stands for:
I = intense
N = needy
D = draining
I = intoxicating
A = astonishing
India is definitely not a destination for everyone. It was a challenge even for us who consider ourselves to be seasoned travelers having visited other 3rd world countries. We thought we’d already encountered a bit of everything, but India proved us wrong.
And yet, we are so glad that we came. India is without equal, and without a doubt one of the most unusual, confounding, but alluring places on earth. Our trip here required us to employ all of our acquired travel skills -- and brought us as close to traveling thru time as anything we have ever done.
One thing is definitely true: every one of the human senses will be tested to the max by exposure to India. The colors, the smells, the extreme poverty, the heat, the plethora and variety of animals, the religious anomalies, the traffic, the smiling friendly people, the lack of amenities, and the frenetic passion of the country will stay with us for a long, long time. To steal a phrase from Winston Churchill, India is “a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma.”
Dec 13th, 2011, 04:38 PM
#77
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tips
Here are a couple tips for those of you who are planning a trip to India:
- If you have sensitive eyes, bring lots of eye drops. My eyes went crazy with the dry air and the air pollution. VisineA was a lifesaver.
- Bring Chapstick and plenty of body lotion to combat the dryness.
- Bring flashlights and keep by your bedside in case of power outages.
- Bring (or buy) a cheap pair of sandals to wear when the bathroom floor is wet (due to open showers)
- Bring a small flask of whiskey to clean eating utensils
- Before you go, add some Indian mediation music to your MP3 Player – very calming for long car rides (I love “Ayurveda” by Kiran Murti that I bought on Amazon)
- My favorite souvenirs were the wedding gift envelopes and wedding gift bags that I bought in Hauz Khas Village in Delhi. They are inexpensive but so beautiful – the envelopes are perfect for gift certificates, and the bags can be used to store sweaters or scarves. All the women in my family are getting a gift bag with a scarf inside. I can’t find her business card, but the shop owner is named Happy, and she is located on the main shopping street in Hauz Khas (you will see the colorful purses, bags etc. in the window).
- Other fun items to buy: A turban for my husband and a sparkly tunic top for me. We also picked up all kinds of cheap wedding goods: leis, bindis (stick-on dots for the forehead) etc. One of the alleyways in Jodhpur was lined with shops selling wedding decorations. We wore our outfits and decorated for an Indian-themed Christmas party with our kids. We served some Indian food; the kids and grandkids all wore the leis and the bindis. We had a ball!
If you would like to see pictures, we just finished our blog. The text is pretty much the same as these reports, but we also interspersed some pictures. Here is the link: http://supsictravelsindia.blogspot.com
Thanks for all the supportive comments. And for those of you headed for India, we wish you an astonishing adventure!
Here are a couple tips for those of you who are planning a trip to India:
- If you have sensitive eyes, bring lots of eye drops. My eyes went crazy with the dry air and the air pollution. VisineA was a lifesaver.
- Bring Chapstick and plenty of body lotion to combat the dryness.
- Bring flashlights and keep by your bedside in case of power outages.
- Bring (or buy) a cheap pair of sandals to wear when the bathroom floor is wet (due to open showers)
- Bring a small flask of whiskey to clean eating utensils
- Before you go, add some Indian mediation music to your MP3 Player – very calming for long car rides (I love “Ayurveda” by Kiran Murti that I bought on Amazon)
- My favorite souvenirs were the wedding gift envelopes and wedding gift bags that I bought in Hauz Khas Village in Delhi. They are inexpensive but so beautiful – the envelopes are perfect for gift certificates, and the bags can be used to store sweaters or scarves. All the women in my family are getting a gift bag with a scarf inside. I can’t find her business card, but the shop owner is named Happy, and she is located on the main shopping street in Hauz Khas (you will see the colorful purses, bags etc. in the window).
- Other fun items to buy: A turban for my husband and a sparkly tunic top for me. We also picked up all kinds of cheap wedding goods: leis, bindis (stick-on dots for the forehead) etc. One of the alleyways in Jodhpur was lined with shops selling wedding decorations. We wore our outfits and decorated for an Indian-themed Christmas party with our kids. We served some Indian food; the kids and grandkids all wore the leis and the bindis. We had a ball!
If you would like to see pictures, we just finished our blog. The text is pretty much the same as these reports, but we also interspersed some pictures. Here is the link: http://supsictravelsindia.blogspot.com
Thanks for all the supportive comments. And for those of you headed for India, we wish you an astonishing adventure!
Dec 13th, 2011, 05:21 PM
#80
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dowry_murder - it's wiki, but it has the basics and some good-looking links. The bottom line being that the groom's family thought the bride's dowry was insufficient and she wound up dead, allowing him to marry again. (You are aware that the vast majority of marriages in South Asia (and in some South Asian immigrant families abroad - it's an issue in the UK) are still arranged, and still involve dowries, right?)
