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3 weeks in Myanmar-What an adventure!

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3 weeks in Myanmar-What an adventure!

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Old Feb 18th, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Just wanted to chime in since I am now catching up with this thread. Yes, Shelley, part of writing a detailed trip report is to relive the experience. I also use my TR's as a reference that I can refer back to years from now, not only to relive the experience but to help others on this forum and elsewhere.

I was one of the early Fodor's explorers of Myanmar. Every time I read an excellent report like yours, I want to return. Thanks for posting!
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Old Feb 18th, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Thanks for the report. I didn't start reading it until tonight, but am enjoying it.
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Old Feb 19th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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You are welcome Craig and Patty. I used information from both of your Myanmar reports to plan my trip, so thank you for posting

We arrived at the Heho airport at 11am and were met by our driver who would be with us for the next 2 days. We drove about 2 hours over rough roads undergoing rebuilding, to Pindaya Cave. The drive was through pretty, agricultue scenery, and was actually made more interesting because of the construction. The methods seemed very primitive, using mostly people power and very few machines. Men and women were breaking up the pavement with sledgehammers, loading the debris into large basins, dumping it into piles, and sorting out the rocks into 3 piles, small, medium and large, probably to be reused in some way. The only machines we saw were a few dump trucks dropping the tar and a few rollers to roll it smooth. By the time the project is over, they will have a new four lane road, but not for our trip. And from the rate they were going, not for any time soon.

We arrived at Pindaya Cave and walked into a large natural cave with the walls covered in Buddahs of various sizes, mostly donated within the last 50 years. There were signs next to each Buddah saying who had donated it. We spent about 10-15 minutes in the cave and decided we had seen enough. For us it was a truly an underwelming site.

In retrospect, this was the one place we visited that I should have left out of the itinerary. The ride is too long for what you see at the end of the ride. I'd rate Pindaya Cave a definite miss.

Our destination for the night was Kalaw, a one hour drive from Pindaya. We were staying at the Hill Top Resort. I had read reviews on Trip Advisor that the Resort (many small bungalowas in a pretty hill top location) was ok as long as you ate before you got there because the dinner menu was very limited. Thank goodness I read this review because it was exactly correct. The dinner menu had 3 things on it-fried rice, fried noodles and fried eggs. That was it.

So I told the driver before we got to Kalaw that I wanted to stop in town for an early dinner and asked him if he could he recommend a good Chinese Restaurant. At 4 PM we stopped at the Seven Sisters Restaurant on Main Street, a cute little restaurant in a converted house. The food was decent and the service was excellent.

The waitress spoke excellent English with a slight British accent. I asked her where she learned to speak English so well and she said, "From the tourists". I got this same reply from many Burmese to whom I asked this question. It's nice to know that tourism can benefit the people in ways other than just monetarily.

With our bellies full, we continued another 15-20 minutes to the Hill Top Resort which is located on a hilltop in the middle of nowhere. The mountains were covered in pine trees and reminded me very much of a mountains in New Hampshire, not far from where I live. We viewed a pretty sunset from the balcony of our small bungalow. Because the room lighting was too dim to read by, and there was no TV in the room, and it was starting to get cold after sunset, we went to bed early.

For those that like remote, this is it. Maybe I would have been more enthusiastic about Kalaw and the Hill Top Resort if we were trekking, but this was not on our agenda.

Tomorrow we leave for Kakku and Inle Lake.
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Old Feb 19th, 2012, 07:22 AM
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It's nice to read about your stop in Kalaw. As you know, we opted not to go there, but Kalaw and places farther norther are still on our list for a future trip.
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Old Feb 19th, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Kathie, on a third trip, after you've seen the major sites on the first two,, Kalaw might be worth a visit. For our first trip, I should have used the time elsewhere. Kalaw does get mixed reviews from others, so maybe it was just not our cup of tea. Also, I do not know of any upscale hotels in the area, so you'd really have to take a large step down from your preferred type of hotels.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2012, 05:47 AM
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Shelley, I know you are working on your India trip, but I'd love to hear more about your time in Burma!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2012, 07:01 AM
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Hi Shelly and all,
I often use Fodors forums for help. In this case, I'm just reading your thread for the vicarious pleasure if learning about visiting someplace foreign and exotic. It's a great travelogue you're writing and I'm enjoying it. Haven't finished reading your entire thread yet but will.
I loved my 3 wk. trip to Thailand but all the beds, in many places, were so hard I developed back pain. What were the mattresses like on your trip?
I was told that the Thai people sleep on thin futons on the floor at their homes so they are accustomed to HARD. Therefore the hotel mattresses are beyond firm. Don't know about Myanmar.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2012, 09:03 AM
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Kathie-This has been a busy week. I will get back to this TR as soon as I can, definately by the weekend, if not sooner.

Bonbon-Glad to have you along on my adventure. The beds were firm, not hard, although I know there is a fine line between the two. We had no problems with the beds, and definately had no problem sleeping after a busy day of touring.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2012, 01:20 PM
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Shelley--I am enjoying your report and sort of re-living our trip. 2700 photos!! I thought that we took a lot but it was not nearly that many.

I guess that it was fortunate that we were on the 'good' side of the Mandalay City Hotel. I didn't even know that there was a mosque nearby. I, too, would skip Mandalay if time was short. It was, by far, the least likeable of our destinations.

You mentioned the pumpkin soup. I had this soup at least 6 times (at different restaurants). It was always slightly different and always delicious. Pumpkin curries were also wonderful.

I agree with you and the others about the restoration work being done by the govt. I thought that, perhaps, a friend or relative of the govt. must own the new brick factories! There certainly is a big difference in the appearance.

Inle Lake had the best sunset when we were there. The one in Bagan was a non-event. The other people around us (on a very crowded temple) seemed to agree. We should have tried a sunrise but I seem to be a fairly lazy traveller.

I agree that, for anyone considering a trip to Myanmar, the sooner the better.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2012, 01:39 PM
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glyntor- I guess we lucked out with thew sunsets in Bagan. But you lucked out with your room at the Mandalay City Hotel. Once our room was switched I really liked the hotel. But I would hesitiate to recommend it unless one could be guaranteed a room on the 'non mosque side', which I gladly would have paid extra for.
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 03:00 AM
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Shelleyk - Great TR with all the detail you provide! Myanmar is high on my list for travel in 2013 ... but as a solo traveler, don't think I'm brave enough to go on my own. However, the company I'm considering (OAT) has a number of free periods and meals 'on your own,' so your info on sights and restaurants is very helpful!

One question - was the temperature dramatically different from the beginning of your trip in January vs the end in February? I'm waivering between which month would be the 'coolest.' While I know temperature is never a guarantee from year to year, mid-70 degrees is a lot different than in the 90 degree range!! (This was the range I experienced in Italy this past October when I thought I was traveling safely in the more temperate timeframe; yet Rome and Venice were sweltering, while Tuscany was pleasantly enjoying Fall weather!)
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 04:30 AM
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Hi Janet- Glad to know you are enjoying my TR.

We left Myanmar on Feb.4, so we did not spend much time in the country in Feb. We started and ended our trip In Yangon and the temperature was about 5 degrees warmer (around 94 degrees) in Feb. than in Jan. You can check the temperatures for all the cities OAT visits on weatherbase.com. If you want cooler temperatures, especially desireable in Mandalay, Bagan and Yangon, I would go in Jan.

I am pretty familiar with the OAT trip as I just got a phone call from someone who is considering it. OAT spends several days in Kalaw and on Inle Lake, where you do not have to be too concerned about the temperature in Feb. . But you do need to be concerned about the temp. in Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan where it can get very hot mid day.
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 04:40 AM
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Janet-I forgot to mention that you do not have to be "brave" to travel solo in Myanmar, but you do need to be comfortable being on your own. If you wanted to, you could have a travel agent in Myanmar plan the trip and supply everything you need to do it on your own. I felt very safe in the country. But there is something to be said for a group if you do not want to plan the logistics of the trip, and be on your own for several weeks.
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Hi Janet, I agree with Shelly that you don't have to be brave to go to Burma alone. It is probably the safest place I've ever been.

Let me start by stating my bias - you couldn't pay me to go on a group tour to Burma. With that in mind, I looked at the OAT itinerary and costs. The 16 day trip has just 12 days in Burma by my count. The lowest cost for the land only is $3000. For that price, you could get a local agent in Burma to book everything for you, stay at the finest hotels, and have guides and drivers anywhere you wanted.

You can't avoid meeting other travelers even if you wanted to so you won't be alone even if you are traveling solo. We met some fascinating people in Burma. I'd really encourage you to consider traveling independently. You can experience so much more on your own!

I was in Burma in Nov/Dec and if you click on my name, you'll find my trip report from 2011 as well as my report from 2009.
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Just want to chime in that Kathie is right, there are lots of lurkers reading your report, like me. I have never even thought of going to Myanmar, but it sounds fascinating and I would like to look further at this countryas a destination.

Lovely report, thank you for the effort!
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Old Feb 24th, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Shelley - Thanks so much for your response ... November to January will be my goal timeframe for a visit to Myanmar! It is very reassuring to hear that personal safety is not a concern, too. While I will cost out what a tour agent can provide, group travel is still tempting when complicated logistics are involved. Early in my career I experienced solo business travel to Asia; but since retirement, my solo travel has been to various European destinations. Just not sure about tackling Asian logistics now! Looking forward to the remaining days of your TR. (India is your next destination? Loved India!!)

Kathie - Appreciate your confirmation that independent/solo travel to Myanmar is doable, and safe. I do agree that when solo it is easy to meet the nicest fellow travelers, and I like having control of my own schedule. It's just the taxi/train/plane aspect of multi-cities within country that appear challenging to me! I'll definitely do some homework before committing to group travel. And I'm off to read your TRs from 2009 and 2011!
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 07:24 AM
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We had to awaken early as I planned to leave the hotel at 7am in order to go to Kakku and make it to our hotel on the lake by sunset, as i did not want to be in a boat on the lake after dark. I figured that if left the hotel at 7am this was doable. I asked the night before what time the dining room opened for breakfast and they said breakfast was served from 6:30am onward.

When we arrived at the dining at 6:30, the tables were set, but there was no food to be seen on the buffet table. As I heard pots and pans banging in the kitchen, I figured the food would be out shortly. At 6:45 they began to put out the food, and DH and I decided to delay our departure in order to eat breakfast, which turned out to be good, at least the limited food items they had out were good. By the time we left the dining room, they still had not finished putting out the buffet items. Too bad for us. i think it would have been an excellent breakfast.

We left the hotel at 7:30, drove off the mountain and drove to Taunggi, the regional capital, and picked up our compulsary Pau O guide, Mr. A. Being with him added so much to our understanding of the social and economic situation in his area, as well as to our understanding of Buddism.

During the drive to Kakku we learned that Mr A had been a farmer who taught himself English from listening to the radio (Voice of America) with a dictionary next to him so he could look up the meaning of words. He then moved on to watching movie DVDs to learn more English. His English now, after 10 years as a guide, is very good.

He also told us that the road we were traveling on, which had one narrow lane in each direction, aand was in very bad condition with large pot holes and chunks of pavement missing, was a lifeline for his village. The ride that took us one hour from Taunggi to his village took villagers 2 days before the road was paved. It made me realize how important roads are for nation building.

When we reached his village at about 11am, he wanted us to see the village market. Most of the stalls were empty as this was a morning market, but there were a few people around and he took great delight in chatting with them while taking great delight in the fact that he was acting as a guide. Ifelt that this stop was more for his ego than for our benefit, but the rest of our time more than made up for this short diversion. He also wanted to show us the stupa in his village, but I explained to him about our need to stick to a schedule
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 07:45 AM
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and politely declined his offer.

We arrived at Kakku at about 12:30 and spent several hours wandering around the sight, viewing the many stupas, and listening to the sound of the bells on the stupas. Mr.A left us on ourown to enjoy Kakku, and this is really the best way to see it,IMO.

We left Kakku at about 2:30, and dropped Mr.A off in Taunggi. I asked him if he kept the money we paid at the office for the guide service or did it go to the tribe. He said that he kept 80% and the tribe kept 20%. We decided that he was such a good guide that we wanted to give him some sdditional money which he gratefully accepted. He also asked if he could take a photo of us for his album as he wanted to show his grandchildren the Americans that he guided. I guess Americans are not the usual visitors he has guided.

We then drove another one and a half hours to the jetty at Inle Lake. We tipped and said goodby to our excellent driver,, met our pre arranged boatman, rode 45 minutes by boat to our hotel in daylight, and arrived at the Paramount Inle Resort Hotel, in time for a gorgeous sunset.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 08:24 AM
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The Paramount Inle Resort was one of our favorite hotels. . I planned a four night stay here as Inle Lake, as well as Bagan seemed to be the highlights in most TRs I had read.

We had a deluxe room in an individual stilt house directly on the lake. When we arrived we were given a choice of a cabin with a sunrise view, or a cabin with a sunset view . The general manager recommended we take the sunrise view cabin, as it would be quieter. Paramount Inle Resort does have a lot of boat traffic passing by, but the noise was not bothersme to us and seeing the longtail boats loaded with both people and goods headed for the 5 day markets added to our experience.

The staff at the Resort are super friendly and the manager is a true gem who takes great pride in her hotel as well as her heritage. BTW, she is Burmese (the majority of the population), but she prefers Myanmar to Burma as it is more inclusive of all of the minority people.

The dining room at the Resort has a lovely lake view. The food is very good and very reasonably priced considering you are a captive audience for dinner (There is no road access to the hotel). Payment for dinner, as well as for the daily boatmen, is in kyats only. So be sure to change enough dollars into kyats before you arrive.

The one slight downside , and it was very slight, is that there are tour groups who stay here. When they do, and you eat dinner at the same time they do, service can be very slow, and a little derelict, as the staff focuses on getting the food out to the tour groups first.

They have sort of solved the problem by asking guests to pre order dinner before arriving at the dining room for dinner, so that the chef can prep the ingredients in advance and have everything ready to be cooked when you arrive.

So each day, after returning from our day of sightseeing at about 5-5:30, we would go into the dining room, tell them what we wanted for dinner, go to our room for a couple of hours, and return to the dining room for dinner at about 7:30. On the days that the tour groups were in the dining room the sevice was still slow, but better than it would have been if we had not pre ordered dinner.
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Old Feb 25th, 2012, 08:33 AM
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We had Mr A too, and went to his village. What a sweet man he is.
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