22 Days in Burma, Northern Thailand & Southern Laos
Jan 8th, 2011, 11:15 PM
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PART II of 22 DAYS IN BURMA, NORTHERN THAILAND & SOUTHERN LAOS
DAY 8 NORTHERN THAILAND
We took the long way to Chiang Mai. We flew from Yangon to Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Why? Because Air Bagan waits until November or even December to decide if they are going to fly the route Rangoon-Chiang Mai. If they decide not to fly this seasonal route (as more than one travel agent predicted) we might have a hard time getting a flight last minute just before Christmas. So we took the long and cautious route. They did fly this year directly and the flight got in about the same time ours did.
We flew Air Asia from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (thanks to Bob's announcement last year of their sale). I'd paid extra for checked luggage and knew we'd still be overweight, not bad 4 pounds. They let us slide.
We stayed at Yaang Come Village, a place Kathie knew of. By the time I got around to booking Chiang Mae I couldn't bear to do much more computer research. It looked OK, OK location, so I booked.
From the airport we took a prepaid cab and lucked out. The driver spoke decent English. I scritinized his car: working a/c, windows that could be rolled up and down, shock absorbers, roomy leather seats. As I was about to ask him if he would be interested in driving us for the next 2 days, he made his pitch. He was already engaged for tomorrow but next day was fine. And a very good price, 1200THB.
We checked in, got back our docs and headed to the room to settle in. On the way to our upstairs room I took a fall either due to my balance problem (which has to be evaluated on my return), my age, eagerness to get upstairs or general clumsyness. The room had all the needed appointments. After relaxing a while we set out for an ATM and explored the neighborhood.
We took a tuk tuk it to the Riverside Bar. The tuk tuk wasn't bad (except for the noise) because I wore my surgical mask. The Restaurant was fully booked and we had a long wait but chatted with the others at the bar waiting for tables. The river view from our terrace table was so pleasant. The food was a mix of hit and miss.
DAY 8 NORTHERN THAILAND
We took the long way to Chiang Mai. We flew from Yangon to Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Why? Because Air Bagan waits until November or even December to decide if they are going to fly the route Rangoon-Chiang Mai. If they decide not to fly this seasonal route (as more than one travel agent predicted) we might have a hard time getting a flight last minute just before Christmas. So we took the long and cautious route. They did fly this year directly and the flight got in about the same time ours did.
We flew Air Asia from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (thanks to Bob's announcement last year of their sale). I'd paid extra for checked luggage and knew we'd still be overweight, not bad 4 pounds. They let us slide.
We stayed at Yaang Come Village, a place Kathie knew of. By the time I got around to booking Chiang Mae I couldn't bear to do much more computer research. It looked OK, OK location, so I booked.
From the airport we took a prepaid cab and lucked out. The driver spoke decent English. I scritinized his car: working a/c, windows that could be rolled up and down, shock absorbers, roomy leather seats. As I was about to ask him if he would be interested in driving us for the next 2 days, he made his pitch. He was already engaged for tomorrow but next day was fine. And a very good price, 1200THB.
We checked in, got back our docs and headed to the room to settle in. On the way to our upstairs room I took a fall either due to my balance problem (which has to be evaluated on my return), my age, eagerness to get upstairs or general clumsyness. The room had all the needed appointments. After relaxing a while we set out for an ATM and explored the neighborhood.
We took a tuk tuk it to the Riverside Bar. The tuk tuk wasn't bad (except for the noise) because I wore my surgical mask. The Restaurant was fully booked and we had a long wait but chatted with the others at the bar waiting for tables. The river view from our terrace table was so pleasant. The food was a mix of hit and miss.
Jan 8th, 2011, 11:41 PM
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DAY 9 CHIANG MAI
We slept in after yesterday's long day of travel. Chiang Mai is the first city where we could walk 4 or 5 miles during the day. That's the benefit of not having a driver or guide. When we approached the eastern old city gate, we walked the wrong way. But luckily I found a boutique that sold well designed silk evening bags. I figured I'd see them in the market and walked on. I broke my own rule, buy it when you see it. When we eventually made it to the old city and located Wat Phra Singh. Inside the main prayer hall, groups were praying in front of an elderly monk. Some of the murals looked old, some new. All was peaceful. Outside the beautiful Lanna (carved wood) architecture was on every rooftop in the complex. I found the small scripture repository (ho trai) architecturally stunning, the proportions sublime. Where there were no carvings with gilt, the stucco was covered with glass mosaic tiles that shimmered against the bright sun. Minimalist it was not.
Luchtime so we headed for Charcoa, diagnol from the Wat, still in the old city. Just sustainance. I sought out a boutique recommended by Nancy Chandler (she is the writer of a guide book and map for Chiang Mai as well as other locations) but even with the map, it eluded me. So we hopped a tuk tuk to take us there, knowing it was within 4 or 5 blocks. He had no better luck.
So we walked back to the hotel and lazed by the pool until the sun dropped behind the pitched roof of the hotel's dining room.
Relaxed and refueled we set out to Wat Suan Dok. Monks were walking this way and that. Many engaged in setting up for some big event. Some young monks were playing a game with stones. We made our way to a spare room dedicated to "Monk Chat" from 5-7 pm several days a week. You just show up and 2 or 3 monks sit and converse with you. They get to practice their English and we get to chat with them about things Buddhist. One monk was from Thailand, the other from Burma. They both had been studying English for the same number of years. The Burmese monk was much easier for me to understand. I speculate that the Thais have vowels and consonants very dissimilar to English, making their pronunciation a mystery to me.
We asked the monks about their views of the difference between Theraveda and Mahayana schools, their daily lives, their views of their futures.
We slept in after yesterday's long day of travel. Chiang Mai is the first city where we could walk 4 or 5 miles during the day. That's the benefit of not having a driver or guide. When we approached the eastern old city gate, we walked the wrong way. But luckily I found a boutique that sold well designed silk evening bags. I figured I'd see them in the market and walked on. I broke my own rule, buy it when you see it. When we eventually made it to the old city and located Wat Phra Singh. Inside the main prayer hall, groups were praying in front of an elderly monk. Some of the murals looked old, some new. All was peaceful. Outside the beautiful Lanna (carved wood) architecture was on every rooftop in the complex. I found the small scripture repository (ho trai) architecturally stunning, the proportions sublime. Where there were no carvings with gilt, the stucco was covered with glass mosaic tiles that shimmered against the bright sun. Minimalist it was not.
Luchtime so we headed for Charcoa, diagnol from the Wat, still in the old city. Just sustainance. I sought out a boutique recommended by Nancy Chandler (she is the writer of a guide book and map for Chiang Mai as well as other locations) but even with the map, it eluded me. So we hopped a tuk tuk to take us there, knowing it was within 4 or 5 blocks. He had no better luck.
So we walked back to the hotel and lazed by the pool until the sun dropped behind the pitched roof of the hotel's dining room.
Relaxed and refueled we set out to Wat Suan Dok. Monks were walking this way and that. Many engaged in setting up for some big event. Some young monks were playing a game with stones. We made our way to a spare room dedicated to "Monk Chat" from 5-7 pm several days a week. You just show up and 2 or 3 monks sit and converse with you. They get to practice their English and we get to chat with them about things Buddhist. One monk was from Thailand, the other from Burma. They both had been studying English for the same number of years. The Burmese monk was much easier for me to understand. I speculate that the Thais have vowels and consonants very dissimilar to English, making their pronunciation a mystery to me.
We asked the monks about their views of the difference between Theraveda and Mahayana schools, their daily lives, their views of their futures.
Jan 9th, 2011, 12:01 AM
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Then another farang comes to join our group. I don't remember his name but he looked like it ought to be Roy. He just looked like a Roy, that's all. Roy was clad in a hot pink short sleeved shirt. It hung out over his pants so the gaudy scene of Thai life could be seen and appreciated. Roy told us he'd spent a month in Thailand. He asked the monks: what's your organizational structure? The monks were puzzled. I translated, sangha. He wondered if the monastery accepted donations. What had he been doing all month. I was astounded at how little he'd learned about the culture. The level of discourse was descending rapidly and Fred and I gave our thanks, our donation and left.
We tried to find a tuk tuk to our dinner spot. We walked and walked, no tuk tuks. No taxis. During the day you could easily meet you end mixing it up with an oncoming tuk tuk. At night, where are they? After about 25 minutes we nabbed one and went to France-Thai Place Restaurant. We asked if the tuk tuk would wait for us or come back, no. This was my favorite dining experience in CM. We were seated in a covered patio with foliage everywhere. Our tabvle abutted a small babbling fountain. Not only did we find the sound soothing but the chat noir (black cat)found our table a convenient spot from which to quench his thirst. And for us, at last, good wine. A well integrated Cote de Rhone (the wines in Burma we found undrinkable). Besides the well prepared French food, they had a menu of Thai and Indian food. My pork in mushroon sauce was excellent. The garden setting, the good food and wine, I loved the place. At the next table were a group of middle aged European men with a couple of pretty eighteen year old Thai girls. Hard not to think the worst.
When we got back to our hotel the Christmas Eve band was in full swing. So en route to our room we stopped on the patio and danced to their rendition of YMCA.
We tried to find a tuk tuk to our dinner spot. We walked and walked, no tuk tuks. No taxis. During the day you could easily meet you end mixing it up with an oncoming tuk tuk. At night, where are they? After about 25 minutes we nabbed one and went to France-Thai Place Restaurant. We asked if the tuk tuk would wait for us or come back, no. This was my favorite dining experience in CM. We were seated in a covered patio with foliage everywhere. Our tabvle abutted a small babbling fountain. Not only did we find the sound soothing but the chat noir (black cat)found our table a convenient spot from which to quench his thirst. And for us, at last, good wine. A well integrated Cote de Rhone (the wines in Burma we found undrinkable). Besides the well prepared French food, they had a menu of Thai and Indian food. My pork in mushroon sauce was excellent. The garden setting, the good food and wine, I loved the place. At the next table were a group of middle aged European men with a couple of pretty eighteen year old Thai girls. Hard not to think the worst.
When we got back to our hotel the Christmas Eve band was in full swing. So en route to our room we stopped on the patio and danced to their rendition of YMCA.
Jan 9th, 2011, 01:29 AM
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Another 2 hours left of our 7 hour layover in Bangkok. Were it not for my wish to make headway on this report and a good book, I'd go nutty.
DAY 10 CHIANG MAI
Merry Christmas. We stood outside waiting for our driver when a funny scene presented itself. The frisky Jack Russel terrier on site had found a skateboard in the front courtyard. First he pushed it and then chased it. Then he put his front paws on the back of it and skated and skated and skated. Finally he got tired and let the skateboard land in the dirt.
Our first stop was at Kathie's "find", Golden Triangle. I'd had the hotel call to make an appointment for today. Since she was only going to be open in the morning, I made a 9:30 appointment before we headed further out of town. The owner is a gracious Ahka woman, well regarded for her knowledge of textiles and her collection. I could have spent all day there. In our limited time, I found a handsome old vest on naturally dyed indigo cotton, decorated with old silver ornamentation. This garment is worn by men over their shirts and under their colorful jackets on ceremonial occasions.
Next stop after driving from the southwest part of CM to the north, was the Tribal Museum. Darn, closed for restoration. No information on when it will re-open.
Then to the Tiger Kingdom. I loved watching the 1 1/2 month olds scamper, grab my pant leg, chew on anything available. Watched as a caretaker gave one of the wee ones a baby bottle full of milk. The 3 month old Lulu was the size of a big Spaniel. Wow, do they grow fast. Lulu still had the spunk of the babies but with huge paws. Hanging out with the 14 month old sisters Sophia and Jennifer caused me real distress. The cats are magnificient. Being close to them, scratching their tummies and feeling their heartbeat is exciting but they must be drugged. No matter how many times and how many different delicate ways I asked about how they are so calm, the handlers denied that they received any drugs. Impossible. This placid lounging around is not natural for these cats except when they nap, which is often. But they are wild, their normal behavior is not to accept such close contact with humans. Well, I had to find out for myself. My recommendation, don't patronize this endeavor. Save your rupees for a trip to Rathambhore (sorry, no spell check) National Park in northern India where they have 15 to 20 tigers roaming around freely. (I got lucky and saw one some years ago.)
We skipped the Saim Insect Museum since by now I had an impressive collection of most species and sub-species well displayed on my arms and legs.
I was curious about the much lauded Four Seasons Hotel so we stopped for a bowl of soup for lunch. It certainly is a beautiful resort, but not a place to stay if you are touring CM.
We took a very scenic drive through part of the Mae Sa Valley. The driver said the area has lacked rain and "not so beautiful". I disagree; we were glad to saw the natural beauty that abounds here.
Then we went to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. I had been before but wanted Fred to see it. He really liked walking around and seeing the activities connected with this temple. The archecture is devine. Now there's an elevator so no need to walk up 100+ stairs to enter. Just down the hill from the temple, Orchid Jade Factory was still in business. We perused the goods and I realized I'd done such a thorough job here in '99 (one Burmese Imperialjade ring, one carved pendant, one large slab of green and lavendar jade intricately carved)there was nothing else I wanted. Fred cheered.
Remember the evening bags I passed up the other, sure to see them everywhere? With me directing, the driver got us to Ruby Red/Blue River (462 Tha Pre Road, one block east of Tha Pre Gate and 2 doors from Boots Pharmacy) and bought the bags that I know 2 friends will like.
DAY 10 CHIANG MAI
Merry Christmas. We stood outside waiting for our driver when a funny scene presented itself. The frisky Jack Russel terrier on site had found a skateboard in the front courtyard. First he pushed it and then chased it. Then he put his front paws on the back of it and skated and skated and skated. Finally he got tired and let the skateboard land in the dirt.
Our first stop was at Kathie's "find", Golden Triangle. I'd had the hotel call to make an appointment for today. Since she was only going to be open in the morning, I made a 9:30 appointment before we headed further out of town. The owner is a gracious Ahka woman, well regarded for her knowledge of textiles and her collection. I could have spent all day there. In our limited time, I found a handsome old vest on naturally dyed indigo cotton, decorated with old silver ornamentation. This garment is worn by men over their shirts and under their colorful jackets on ceremonial occasions.
Next stop after driving from the southwest part of CM to the north, was the Tribal Museum. Darn, closed for restoration. No information on when it will re-open.
Then to the Tiger Kingdom. I loved watching the 1 1/2 month olds scamper, grab my pant leg, chew on anything available. Watched as a caretaker gave one of the wee ones a baby bottle full of milk. The 3 month old Lulu was the size of a big Spaniel. Wow, do they grow fast. Lulu still had the spunk of the babies but with huge paws. Hanging out with the 14 month old sisters Sophia and Jennifer caused me real distress. The cats are magnificient. Being close to them, scratching their tummies and feeling their heartbeat is exciting but they must be drugged. No matter how many times and how many different delicate ways I asked about how they are so calm, the handlers denied that they received any drugs. Impossible. This placid lounging around is not natural for these cats except when they nap, which is often. But they are wild, their normal behavior is not to accept such close contact with humans. Well, I had to find out for myself. My recommendation, don't patronize this endeavor. Save your rupees for a trip to Rathambhore (sorry, no spell check) National Park in northern India where they have 15 to 20 tigers roaming around freely. (I got lucky and saw one some years ago.)
We skipped the Saim Insect Museum since by now I had an impressive collection of most species and sub-species well displayed on my arms and legs.
I was curious about the much lauded Four Seasons Hotel so we stopped for a bowl of soup for lunch. It certainly is a beautiful resort, but not a place to stay if you are touring CM.
We took a very scenic drive through part of the Mae Sa Valley. The driver said the area has lacked rain and "not so beautiful". I disagree; we were glad to saw the natural beauty that abounds here.
Then we went to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. I had been before but wanted Fred to see it. He really liked walking around and seeing the activities connected with this temple. The archecture is devine. Now there's an elevator so no need to walk up 100+ stairs to enter. Just down the hill from the temple, Orchid Jade Factory was still in business. We perused the goods and I realized I'd done such a thorough job here in '99 (one Burmese Imperialjade ring, one carved pendant, one large slab of green and lavendar jade intricately carved)there was nothing else I wanted. Fred cheered.
Remember the evening bags I passed up the other, sure to see them everywhere? With me directing, the driver got us to Ruby Red/Blue River (462 Tha Pre Road, one block east of Tha Pre Gate and 2 doors from Boots Pharmacy) and bought the bags that I know 2 friends will like.
Jan 9th, 2011, 01:38 AM
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If you don't need a guide, I would recommend Mr. Charan as a driver. He's cab 58 and his cell is 081 1998 3786. He dropped us back at the hotel afer a satisfying tour day. We rested, counted our supply of Baht and later went to dinner at The Antique House. There are two of them. This one is the 120 year old teak house, not by the one by the river. We ate on the terrace overlooking a garden with views in to the house's interior and its original furnishings.
The crab and shrimp spring roll was outstanding, not really a spring roll at all but wonderful. Christmas songs were blaring from loudspeakers, the singer screeching in the key of H. This was one time I was glad to hear the noisy tuk tuks, they drowned out the hideous singing. From the Antique House it was a short walk to the Kalari Market. Some of the shops and stalls were closed because of Christmas. Nonetheless, I was able to find a pair of jeans with Ahka style patterns hand stitched here and there on the jeans.
The crab and shrimp spring roll was outstanding, not really a spring roll at all but wonderful. Christmas songs were blaring from loudspeakers, the singer screeching in the key of H. This was one time I was glad to hear the noisy tuk tuks, they drowned out the hideous singing. From the Antique House it was a short walk to the Kalari Market. Some of the shops and stalls were closed because of Christmas. Nonetheless, I was able to find a pair of jeans with Ahka style patterns hand stitched here and there on the jeans.
Jan 9th, 2011, 01:55 AM
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DAY 11 CHIANG MAI TO GOLDEN TRIANGLE
Originally the plan was to fly CM to Chiang Rai and drive up to the Golden Triangle. But after our last trip I declared my driving days over. I find it just too tedious and tiring.
We used the driver/guide fromDC recommended, Tony Smile. He used to be a driver, then opened his own tour company in Chiang Rai three years ago([email protected], cell 81 998 5769). Unfortunately, I had a difficult understanding his English. Fred, understanding a bit more, translated.
He picked us up at Yaang Come Village in Chiang Mai and we set off. Wat Rong Khun (known as the white temple) was much more interesting than I expected. The architect and desiger is the famous artist Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpip. He's created a modern Thai Buddhist aesthetic that breaks with the tradirtional style. He humbly states in the temple's guidebook: I had"set my mind to make Thai arts famous and to become a great contemporary Thai artist that the world admires'. Tony aptly compared the signifigance of this work to Gaudi's work in Barcelona. The interior murals speak to good and evil in their modern day manifestations. Tony described one mural as depicting what deeds get you to heave4n and what gets you to hell. I tried to find out from him if he was using heaven and hell because these would be concepts familiar to a Westerner, rather than speak of nirvana or endless rebirths. My inquiry was lost in translation.
A staff of 60 workers had been working on the projectr for some 12 years and the artist thought 4 more years would complete it. After touring the temple inside and out, we watched as the workers assembled decorative elements and exterior carvings.
Originally the plan was to fly CM to Chiang Rai and drive up to the Golden Triangle. But after our last trip I declared my driving days over. I find it just too tedious and tiring.
We used the driver/guide fromDC recommended, Tony Smile. He used to be a driver, then opened his own tour company in Chiang Rai three years ago([email protected], cell 81 998 5769). Unfortunately, I had a difficult understanding his English. Fred, understanding a bit more, translated.
He picked us up at Yaang Come Village in Chiang Mai and we set off. Wat Rong Khun (known as the white temple) was much more interesting than I expected. The architect and desiger is the famous artist Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpip. He's created a modern Thai Buddhist aesthetic that breaks with the tradirtional style. He humbly states in the temple's guidebook: I had"set my mind to make Thai arts famous and to become a great contemporary Thai artist that the world admires'. Tony aptly compared the signifigance of this work to Gaudi's work in Barcelona. The interior murals speak to good and evil in their modern day manifestations. Tony described one mural as depicting what deeds get you to heave4n and what gets you to hell. I tried to find out from him if he was using heaven and hell because these would be concepts familiar to a Westerner, rather than speak of nirvana or endless rebirths. My inquiry was lost in translation.
A staff of 60 workers had been working on the projectr for some 12 years and the artist thought 4 more years would complete it. After touring the temple inside and out, we watched as the workers assembled decorative elements and exterior carvings.
Jan 9th, 2011, 02:11 AM
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Trouble on the horizon but I'm getting ahead of myself.
I had learned from the owner of The Golden Triangle that Ahka New Years was being celebrated over the next three days but the action was on the Burma side of the border. Tony also knew of the New Year's activities, some possibly in a village he knew well. We skipped lunch to give us more village time.
The village of Baan A Pha is about 13 km from Chiang Rai via a windy, bumpy, dusty dirt track. The big ceremonies, it turns out, are at night. The ceremony we saw was a game played only during these three days. Men and boys play together, throwing stones (like throwing a javelin) to see if the boy's strength admits him to male adulthood. Everyone seemed to enjoy this display of testosterone. We walked around and Tony began chatting with a woman, sitting on her wood balcony, putting the finishing stitches on a headdress for tonight. They invited us into their home so we climbed an uneven bamboo ladder and found ourselves in a dim room, maybe 20x20. It had been sorta divided into 2 bedrooms and a cooking area. The woman's husband had died, she had 10 children and electricity.
I asked Tony if any villagers would be interested in selling an old New Year's outfit and making a new one with the money they received.(This was the recommended way to procure old textiles according to our guide in Bhutan. It worked there;p everyone benefitted from the transaction.)
So a buzz went around the village and in a few minutes we were taken to a relatively fancy stucco house. The woman laid out a table for us. All we could do was give thanks, pretend to drink from the bamboo cup and devour the bananas on the table (which was the dirt floor outside with plastic as table cloth). She had some really nice pieces and a bought a colorful, hand done man's jacket.
I had learned from the owner of The Golden Triangle that Ahka New Years was being celebrated over the next three days but the action was on the Burma side of the border. Tony also knew of the New Year's activities, some possibly in a village he knew well. We skipped lunch to give us more village time.
The village of Baan A Pha is about 13 km from Chiang Rai via a windy, bumpy, dusty dirt track. The big ceremonies, it turns out, are at night. The ceremony we saw was a game played only during these three days. Men and boys play together, throwing stones (like throwing a javelin) to see if the boy's strength admits him to male adulthood. Everyone seemed to enjoy this display of testosterone. We walked around and Tony began chatting with a woman, sitting on her wood balcony, putting the finishing stitches on a headdress for tonight. They invited us into their home so we climbed an uneven bamboo ladder and found ourselves in a dim room, maybe 20x20. It had been sorta divided into 2 bedrooms and a cooking area. The woman's husband had died, she had 10 children and electricity.
I asked Tony if any villagers would be interested in selling an old New Year's outfit and making a new one with the money they received.(This was the recommended way to procure old textiles according to our guide in Bhutan. It worked there;p everyone benefitted from the transaction.)
So a buzz went around the village and in a few minutes we were taken to a relatively fancy stucco house. The woman laid out a table for us. All we could do was give thanks, pretend to drink from the bamboo cup and devour the bananas on the table (which was the dirt floor outside with plastic as table cloth). She had some really nice pieces and a bought a colorful, hand done man's jacket.
Jan 9th, 2011, 02:30 AM
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By the time Fred and I had wei-ed our way up to the Golden Triangle we were bushed. On check in at Anantara, reception asked for our passports. I felt inside my trusty hang around the neck pouch. Momentary panic, it was not there. It must be in another location, I'd bring it up later.
Reception showed me a dark, dreary room that I declined. She said "no river views here, Mekong far away". My voucher from SeaTours noted room in north spa building, close to river for elephant viewing. The second room was a very small twin bedded room which I accepted with their proviso that she show me other rooms tomorrow. I was eager to find my passport, not continue room tours.
Fred and I looked in all our travel papers. We unpacked the entire contents of our checked and carry on luggage. No passport. Then I remembered I did not feel it in my pouch when we checked out of YCV. Called them begging for thorough search. They called back; sorry, no passport found. We called Tony. He said we'd need to file a complaint at the local police station. Meanwhile DH was helpfully disasterizing: "we'll have to fly back to Bangkok to the Embassy, I guess we'll miss the flight to Laos.
My rigatoni with eggplant at the Italian restaurnt on site was pretty good but it wouldn't pass any price for value test. I did like the handsomke brick cavelike room with dim lights and excellent service. So we ate and fretted over what could have happened to my passport. I remembered the receptionist at Yaang Come handing it back to me at check in. I usually hold it in my hand and deposit it in the safety box or put it back in the pouch and put the whole pouch in the safety box. But it was not in the safe when we went to check out, I was now sure of that. This was no mundane senior moment. I tried to defend myself in my head "but this is so unlike me". My internal reply " well sweetie, you lost track of your passport so it is like you!".
Reception showed me a dark, dreary room that I declined. She said "no river views here, Mekong far away". My voucher from SeaTours noted room in north spa building, close to river for elephant viewing. The second room was a very small twin bedded room which I accepted with their proviso that she show me other rooms tomorrow. I was eager to find my passport, not continue room tours.
Fred and I looked in all our travel papers. We unpacked the entire contents of our checked and carry on luggage. No passport. Then I remembered I did not feel it in my pouch when we checked out of YCV. Called them begging for thorough search. They called back; sorry, no passport found. We called Tony. He said we'd need to file a complaint at the local police station. Meanwhile DH was helpfully disasterizing: "we'll have to fly back to Bangkok to the Embassy, I guess we'll miss the flight to Laos.
My rigatoni with eggplant at the Italian restaurnt on site was pretty good but it wouldn't pass any price for value test. I did like the handsomke brick cavelike room with dim lights and excellent service. So we ate and fretted over what could have happened to my passport. I remembered the receptionist at Yaang Come handing it back to me at check in. I usually hold it in my hand and deposit it in the safety box or put it back in the pouch and put the whole pouch in the safety box. But it was not in the safe when we went to check out, I was now sure of that. This was no mundane senior moment. I tried to defend myself in my head "but this is so unlike me". My internal reply " well sweetie, you lost track of your passport so it is like you!".
Jan 10th, 2011, 08:43 PM
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DAY 12 ANANTARA, GOLDEN TRIANGLE
So the sage continues. We called Yaang Come Viilage to see if they could intensify their search for my passport. No results. All plans for touring were on hold until I went to the local police station (maybe 10 minutes away) from Anantara to complete and sign a "complaint of lost passport". Too easy.
Since this was a sworn statement I had to sign, and it was written only in Thai sans English translation, I would have to go to Chiang Rai where they had the statement in English. Tony had been busy finding out next steps, they included new passport photos. The extra passport photos I carry, did not have a bright white background, not acceptable. So we drove 45 minutes to Chiang Rai. Got new passport photos. Next stop, The Tourist Police office to file my declaration of lost passport. Naturally, the police were at lunch. Finally, I had all the paper work I needed for a new passport. Problem was I had to go to the US Consulate in Chiang Mai. Only open Tues and Thurs 8-11 am. Tomorrow was Tuesday. Nothing more to do about it today.
At 1 in the afternoon we could consider our options for a bit of touring. Tough choices. We gave the Queen Mothers Villa and Development Project a pass and decided to visit a Lisu vilage and Mae Saloong.
The drive from Chiang Rai to the Lisu village took my breath away, eye popping natural beauty around every turn. The twisty dirt track gave us fabulous views of deep narrow valleys, hillside tea planting and lush high elevation trees. Fred and I were wowed by the stunning views. It compares favorably to the prettiest twisty roads/slopes in the Sapa region of the far north of Vietnam.
Ban Haygo, the Lisu village, was set on a steep hillslope. We walked downhill through the tea plantings. The Lisu are a small hilltribe compared to the Ahka or the Karen and its many sub-tribes. The Lisu are known for wearing their traditional clothing for "everyday wear' and I was hoping to get a close look at their attractive ensemble. No one had so advised the locals. They were in jeans, T shirts, baseball caps and flip flops. Several women followed us to sell trinkets but nothing was of interest in the trinket or photo opp department.
The house construction was distinctive. The houses were built on the ground and the roofs overhung the houses by a wide margin. This along with a good gutter system kept the rains away from the house foundations. The village was not particularly interesting and it was cold at this altitude. So we bumped along another dirt track to Mae Saloong.
So the sage continues. We called Yaang Come Viilage to see if they could intensify their search for my passport. No results. All plans for touring were on hold until I went to the local police station (maybe 10 minutes away) from Anantara to complete and sign a "complaint of lost passport". Too easy.
Since this was a sworn statement I had to sign, and it was written only in Thai sans English translation, I would have to go to Chiang Rai where they had the statement in English. Tony had been busy finding out next steps, they included new passport photos. The extra passport photos I carry, did not have a bright white background, not acceptable. So we drove 45 minutes to Chiang Rai. Got new passport photos. Next stop, The Tourist Police office to file my declaration of lost passport. Naturally, the police were at lunch. Finally, I had all the paper work I needed for a new passport. Problem was I had to go to the US Consulate in Chiang Mai. Only open Tues and Thurs 8-11 am. Tomorrow was Tuesday. Nothing more to do about it today.
At 1 in the afternoon we could consider our options for a bit of touring. Tough choices. We gave the Queen Mothers Villa and Development Project a pass and decided to visit a Lisu vilage and Mae Saloong.
The drive from Chiang Rai to the Lisu village took my breath away, eye popping natural beauty around every turn. The twisty dirt track gave us fabulous views of deep narrow valleys, hillside tea planting and lush high elevation trees. Fred and I were wowed by the stunning views. It compares favorably to the prettiest twisty roads/slopes in the Sapa region of the far north of Vietnam.
Ban Haygo, the Lisu village, was set on a steep hillslope. We walked downhill through the tea plantings. The Lisu are a small hilltribe compared to the Ahka or the Karen and its many sub-tribes. The Lisu are known for wearing their traditional clothing for "everyday wear' and I was hoping to get a close look at their attractive ensemble. No one had so advised the locals. They were in jeans, T shirts, baseball caps and flip flops. Several women followed us to sell trinkets but nothing was of interest in the trinket or photo opp department.
The house construction was distinctive. The houses were built on the ground and the roofs overhung the houses by a wide margin. This along with a good gutter system kept the rains away from the house foundations. The village was not particularly interesting and it was cold at this altitude. So we bumped along another dirt track to Mae Saloong.
Jan 10th, 2011, 09:01 PM
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Tony needed a lunch break at Mae Saloong and we poked around the market. The lower market grounds were preparing for a big celebration of some sort. The Ahka food and souvenir sellers were in full regalia, their headdresses lovely. I bought some sweet potatoes as an entree to requesting a photo and we all were satisfied. They are not comfortable smiling and showing their rotted betel nut stained teeth, at least the ones that had teeth. But I managed to make them giggle anyway.
Back at Anantara Tony waited to see if a final search through our luggage and a final call to Yaang Come Village would produce my passport. While were were thoroughly searching our bags again, we were also packing up. We'd seen the next room they offered (#237), a good size deluxe room with a dramatic view of the trees and valley, two doors from the spa. Again, the receptionist opined "this is very good room, great panorama, better than river view" Was this the river view she told me didn't exist?"
I had booked Anantara through SeaTours (as in Eddy at Sea Tours) because the rack rate through their website (and any other site) were 18,200 THB/night for the deluxe (minimum) room. SeaTours and other big operators get contract rates. So I used them and got the room for 9500 THB/night.
So the verdict was in. My passport had dematerialized and I would have to go all the way back to Chiang Mai in the morning to get a new one. So much for enjoying Anantara. Tony found me a driver who would do the 4.5 hours trek there and back.
Back at Anantara Tony waited to see if a final search through our luggage and a final call to Yaang Come Village would produce my passport. While were were thoroughly searching our bags again, we were also packing up. We'd seen the next room they offered (#237), a good size deluxe room with a dramatic view of the trees and valley, two doors from the spa. Again, the receptionist opined "this is very good room, great panorama, better than river view" Was this the river view she told me didn't exist?"
I had booked Anantara through SeaTours (as in Eddy at Sea Tours) because the rack rate through their website (and any other site) were 18,200 THB/night for the deluxe (minimum) room. SeaTours and other big operators get contract rates. So I used them and got the room for 9500 THB/night.
So the verdict was in. My passport had dematerialized and I would have to go all the way back to Chiang Mai in the morning to get a new one. So much for enjoying Anantara. Tony found me a driver who would do the 4.5 hours trek there and back.
Jan 10th, 2011, 09:38 PM
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DAY 13 ANAnNARA to CHIANG MAI to ANANTARA
No reason for DH to miss a day at Anantara. I was sure I'd be back at the hotel in time for the afternoon elephant bathing and visiting the Hall of Opium with Fred. We reviewed each piece of paper I needed for the passport. I toted extra money in case things went wrong and I had to stay overnght.
At 5 am I stumpled into a car, laid on my pillow and covered myself with the towel I'd brought.
Normally it takes 45 minutes from Anantara to Chiang Rai but today it was especially foggy, so foggy it took us 1 1/2 hours for this leg of the trip. We made it to the US Consulate in Chiang Mai by 9:15, There was tight security, al handbags had to be checked. Pass the security area is a waiting room. I was ushered to Window 1 and shoed my paperwork. Good, go to Window 2, "oh, for sure your passport was stolen." Yes, all in order, go to waiting room (watch CNN) and we'll call you. I was called to window 3 (now we're getting somewhere). Sign here and come back at 3 PM. I proffered my best Les Miserable look. OK, come at 2.
Since my driver spoke no English I asked the guard at the door to ask my driver to take me to the old city. He actually got to Ta Prae Gate. When I asked him to park so I'd know where to locate him, no means of communications worked. Even my international picture chart did not show a picture of a parking structure. He stopped near a Wat. I signaled for him to wait right there. Across the street was a French restaurant. The kindly owner walked to Mr. Nimb's car and told him where to park and to pick me up in front of his bistro in 2 hours. I had a new friend! The French owner recommended a Wat I should visit in the neighborhoos. Why not? It was a lovely Wat and a fine Wat. It was getting hot so I made my way back to La Fourchette (162/2 Prapoklao Rd.) One of the Thai waitresses could talk to me and I could reply in my 2nd grade French. I enjoyed a lovely meal of local fish fillet with eggplant in saffron sauce and a glass of vin rouge. I needed to treat myself!. I was now standing on the curb waiting for the driver to show at 1pm. The Japanese waitress was so kind. She offered water and had me take a seat. She called the driver for me and reassured me" Don't worry we won't leave you stranded". While she and I were chatting about her Buddhist studies in India, my driver pulls up and away we go back to the US Consulate. I checked in at 1:30 and my new, one year passport was ready. Let's go, forget about the elephants bathing.
Since I couldn't pretend I was not disappointed about missing Anantara and its offerings, I reverted to rationalizing. I had ridden an elephant for 2 days in the Nan provence of Thailand and watched the mahoots bathe the pachyderms both day back in '99. And while I had not visited the well regarded Museum of Opium, I had spent time in a Hmong hut watching the old man smoke his opium.
The drive back seemed even longer than 4 1/2 hours. I couldn't count the number of out of state license plates so I counted towns: Ban Pa Lan, Ban Pa Thon, Ban Din Dam, Ban Bat Thong, Ban Rong Bong. Chiang Rai finally announced itself with a jolt on the washboard road. At last Chiang Rai, only 45 more minutes to Anantara. I was utterlly exhaueted.
We liked the Golden View restaurant in town but I couldn't muster the energy. WE ate on site at the Mongolian BBQ offered at the Thai restaurant, resigning ourselves to mediocre food and high prices. We each shared about our day, his was infinitely better.
Well, at least I was no longer a stateless person and we could fly on to Laos tomorrow.
No reason for DH to miss a day at Anantara. I was sure I'd be back at the hotel in time for the afternoon elephant bathing and visiting the Hall of Opium with Fred. We reviewed each piece of paper I needed for the passport. I toted extra money in case things went wrong and I had to stay overnght.
At 5 am I stumpled into a car, laid on my pillow and covered myself with the towel I'd brought.
Normally it takes 45 minutes from Anantara to Chiang Rai but today it was especially foggy, so foggy it took us 1 1/2 hours for this leg of the trip. We made it to the US Consulate in Chiang Mai by 9:15, There was tight security, al handbags had to be checked. Pass the security area is a waiting room. I was ushered to Window 1 and shoed my paperwork. Good, go to Window 2, "oh, for sure your passport was stolen." Yes, all in order, go to waiting room (watch CNN) and we'll call you. I was called to window 3 (now we're getting somewhere). Sign here and come back at 3 PM. I proffered my best Les Miserable look. OK, come at 2.
Since my driver spoke no English I asked the guard at the door to ask my driver to take me to the old city. He actually got to Ta Prae Gate. When I asked him to park so I'd know where to locate him, no means of communications worked. Even my international picture chart did not show a picture of a parking structure. He stopped near a Wat. I signaled for him to wait right there. Across the street was a French restaurant. The kindly owner walked to Mr. Nimb's car and told him where to park and to pick me up in front of his bistro in 2 hours. I had a new friend! The French owner recommended a Wat I should visit in the neighborhoos. Why not? It was a lovely Wat and a fine Wat. It was getting hot so I made my way back to La Fourchette (162/2 Prapoklao Rd.) One of the Thai waitresses could talk to me and I could reply in my 2nd grade French. I enjoyed a lovely meal of local fish fillet with eggplant in saffron sauce and a glass of vin rouge. I needed to treat myself!. I was now standing on the curb waiting for the driver to show at 1pm. The Japanese waitress was so kind. She offered water and had me take a seat. She called the driver for me and reassured me" Don't worry we won't leave you stranded". While she and I were chatting about her Buddhist studies in India, my driver pulls up and away we go back to the US Consulate. I checked in at 1:30 and my new, one year passport was ready. Let's go, forget about the elephants bathing.
Since I couldn't pretend I was not disappointed about missing Anantara and its offerings, I reverted to rationalizing. I had ridden an elephant for 2 days in the Nan provence of Thailand and watched the mahoots bathe the pachyderms both day back in '99. And while I had not visited the well regarded Museum of Opium, I had spent time in a Hmong hut watching the old man smoke his opium.
The drive back seemed even longer than 4 1/2 hours. I couldn't count the number of out of state license plates so I counted towns: Ban Pa Lan, Ban Pa Thon, Ban Din Dam, Ban Bat Thong, Ban Rong Bong. Chiang Rai finally announced itself with a jolt on the washboard road. At last Chiang Rai, only 45 more minutes to Anantara. I was utterlly exhaueted.
We liked the Golden View restaurant in town but I couldn't muster the energy. WE ate on site at the Mongolian BBQ offered at the Thai restaurant, resigning ourselves to mediocre food and high prices. We each shared about our day, his was infinitely better.
Well, at least I was no longer a stateless person and we could fly on to Laos tomorrow.
Jan 10th, 2011, 09:51 PM
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DAY 14 ThAILAND TO LAOS
I was so excited. WE'd actually be in Laos this afternoon. The flight from Chiang Rai to Bangkok was relatively on time (less than an hour delay)...but not so the flight form Bangkok to Pakse, Laos. Since we'd heard no boarding class for our 1:00 flight, we began to wonder what's up.
AT 12:50 Lao Air announced a "technical" problem and a delay until 3 pm. Soon they ushered us up to a Business Class Lounge so we could stretch out and have some food. They had a computer so I notified our first hotel that we'd be late and wanted to be sure we could still get to the hotel at night, it required a boat ride to an island in the dark.
Then I checked email. Big mistake. The General Manager at Yaang Come Village had sent me an urgent email: they had found my passport. My mix of emotions was hard to sort out let alone describe. I requested they send the CANCELLED passport to our hotel on Krabi; they would hold it for me there. They had found it in the scrubs next to the stairs up to our room.
I was so excited. WE'd actually be in Laos this afternoon. The flight from Chiang Rai to Bangkok was relatively on time (less than an hour delay)...but not so the flight form Bangkok to Pakse, Laos. Since we'd heard no boarding class for our 1:00 flight, we began to wonder what's up.
AT 12:50 Lao Air announced a "technical" problem and a delay until 3 pm. Soon they ushered us up to a Business Class Lounge so we could stretch out and have some food. They had a computer so I notified our first hotel that we'd be late and wanted to be sure we could still get to the hotel at night, it required a boat ride to an island in the dark.
Then I checked email. Big mistake. The General Manager at Yaang Come Village had sent me an urgent email: they had found my passport. My mix of emotions was hard to sort out let alone describe. I requested they send the CANCELLED passport to our hotel on Krabi; they would hold it for me there. They had found it in the scrubs next to the stairs up to our room.
Jan 11th, 2011, 05:51 AM
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What a story! Thanks for including your emotions and thoughts along the way. A strong reminder of how travel so often does not go as we planned. Your perseverance and courage shows through, though!
