hdaum

Oh no! My husband's from San Francisco and his parents are still in the area(San Jose)...if I see that license plate frame on the road out there I'm going to give you a little honk! They need a 'Honk if you love warthogs' bumper sticker.

Thanks for feedback on cameras, too-the Fodorites have convinced me to get a nice telephoto zoom lens. Now, I'll just have to practice or else it could be endless pics of warthog butts.

napamatt

The woodpile hide is amazing. You definitely end up in their for a long time, but it's really worth it to be so close to the Elephants.

Dana_M

PS,
I loved your report and photos as much as you loved mine. That's one of the reasons this site is so great. Not only can you get information for planning the trip you are about to take, but once you get home...well, you just have to start planning the next trip to fit in everything you've missed. We all seem to relive our own trips, and those of others, through our trip report. I can almost imagine being with you on your trip your report was so personal.

Hdaum,
PS mentioned my point and shoot. I used a Sony H9 which has a 15X optical zoom. If you're good with a camera and like photography, which it sounds like you do, well this may or may not be the camera for you. It received some negative reviews, but those related to functions that I not only never used, but frankly didn't even understand when I read the reviews. I don't like to mess with camera settings, or think about the act of taking the photo much, and this was a great camera for that. It has numerous functions that I never use, so it will obviously do alot more than what I used it for. As PS also said, there is alot of great information on this site from people very knowledgeable about photography and cameras, and I am not one of those people. Have a fantastic time on your trip, and remember to post photos when you return.

PerpetualStudent

better late than never...

CHITABE TRAILS / WALKING TRAILS
Chitabe Trails is now Chitabe Lebide

Our last camp! Our plan was to stay here for one night, do the walking trails the next night, and then spend our last night back in camp. There was some confusion over our itinerary, as we had one copy that said the last night was at Chitabe main camp, but another that said Chitabe Trails. But it seemed easier to just leave our stuff at one camp rather than move after the hide sleeping experience (though it would have been fun to check out the other camp).

Our guide was Newman, as he was the only guide qualified to do the walking safari (to the sleeping hide) with us the next day. So several people here seem to be familiar with Newman; he has a few decades of experience and really knows his stuff. My dad especially liked him because Newman was into cameras and binoculars and my dad is kind of a nerd when it comes to a lot of things (he gets amped on technology (but not in a “I have to get an iphone now!” kind of way) (we are PC people); I got that from him.) I can’t remember what we saw in order, but we definitely had some good quality time with lions. One evening, we sat with two sleeping male lions while Newman told us the story of these guys. We’d heard of male lions killing off cubs that aren’t their own when they move into a new pride, but apparently one or both of these guys had killed off his own cubs. I meant to follow up with a question about that, but tangents ensued, so I didn’t get a chance to find out. Anyone know why they would do this? On another drive, we saw the same two lions walking across the grass, to find a nice grassy hidden spot to then nap in. During their walk, one of the guys was limping pretty badly. The lead guy would turn around and kind of nuzzle him, once or twice, kind of like “you doing okay there buddy? Just a little further.” Newman was so awesome; he put us so close to the path the guys were following, so that they came within five feet or so truck, passing behind us. There is something about two big male lions approaching, making eye contact with you, and then simply continuing on their path, that will just stick with you forever. A bit scary, all amazing. The hurt guy looked a little dazed and was breathing heavier than the healthy lead guy. So we followed them until they found a nice spot to sleep. I have this amazing image in my head still, of one of their heads in profile, sticking out of the grass that is gently blowing, and he is sniffing the air a bit, head tilted back. A very simple visual but something about it was so beautiful. Oh I think one big reason is that that was on our last day!! It was like a parting gift, spending time with these big guys. And then after that, we saw a leopard in a tree. Or I should say, Newman saw a single leopard hair on a branch, from 2 miles away, and then drove us to the best vantage point, within a 2 cm margin of error. How these guys can spot some of these animals is beyond me. So our last day was: the two lions, a leopard in a tree yelling at the annoying francolin squawking nearby, and then thirty-six hours back to San Francisco.

I’m ahead of myself... The second night was the hide night. The staff gave us duffel bags for the hide; stuff that would meet us there, like face soap, change of clothes etc. Newman and another guide walked us there, stopping to look at the baboons playing, and learning more about poop and tracks, as seems the standard for walking safaris. It felt so good to be walking, of course. I can’t remember much of what we saw... Was a couple of hours. Then we got to our hide. Some other staff were just leaving – they had set everything else up for us – beds, our bags were there, food, drinks, lanterns. So this felt like the most luxurious night of our trip, and in the right ways. We felt spoiled, again. So the hide is two stories tall (there is another hide area that is suited for larger groups, if I remember correctly). My brother and I on the top level, parents below, both levels raised from the ground of course. It was like Swiss Family Robinson, one of my favorite childhood visions. Newman opened up the bar and cooked dinner over the open fire. My mom by this point was okay with the idea of the drop toilet. – She now says she is ready to do a more rustic Africa trip. We did the en-suite bathrooms thing because she was afraid of walking to an outdoor one. So don’t drink a lot of fluids that night, and you are fine. It might have been a bit scary to use that thing in the middle of the night; none of us did. Anyway, more than you wanted to know, we all turned in early, and apart from the fruit bat making its tortuously regular beeping noise directly above my brother and I for the first hour, we all slept like babies. After waking up in excitement at the other camps at the slightest rustling noise outside the tent, I completely slept through a couple of hyena running right under us, sniffing around and calling out. Bummer! The sunrise was beautiful. The bedding was warm. We all wore several layers. Oh, I had purchased a fleece at camp the day before, as the lightweight stuff I’d brought wasn’t cutting it, and I wanted to be cozy at the hide. But I’d forgotten to pack it for the hide, so Newman radioed to have someone deliver it to the hide that night. I protested, but he made something up about needing more ice anyway, saying it wasn’t a problem. I appreciated it immensely.

The next morning, we packed up and took off for our morning game drive. It wasn’t like camping back home, because someone else packed up all of the cooking supplies etc. Well I guess some people might “camp” that way, but not us. Again, luxurious. So that morning we saw a baboon way up high in a tree just yelling his head off. We searched for the leopard that we thought he was yelling about (Newman smelled leopard urine), but with no luck. We saw him/her the next day though, as I described above. Back at camp, our tents were held for us so we didn’t need to pack/unpack, which was nice.

Re: the camp in general, the staff was nice enough to put my brother and I in the family tent. This meant we had separate rooms. Nice! Not something we needed; I guess we’d grown used to sleeping in the same room, no problem (though for some reason, the 2 beds were normally pushed together at every camp so the first thing we’d do is pull them apart.). The tents were definitely the most basic of the camps we’d stayed at, but we were not expecting all of those other camps to be so built-up. And I guess this camp will get a remodel soon. It was kind of nice to have something seem a bit more reasonable, but I think we were also spoiled a bit at the other camps with two sinks and a separate bathroom area (I’d have to walk through the bathroom area to get to my little room at Chitabe Trails, so we had to coordinate a little more than at the other camps, but not a big deal). Although, when we realized this camp price was the same as the other camps, we felt the others were a way better value, as the food here was also not great. (This is of course not considering the location/guide/game though, which we feel is more important.) I am not a foodie by any means, so when I say the food was not great, I mean that three of us got sick. One of us mentioned this to one of the managers, in case something was up with their food storage or something, to prevent others from getting ill, but s/he didn’t really seem to care a whole lot. The one thing about Chitabe Trails that was a disappointment was that the staff wasn’t as “cohesive” (mom’s words) than at other camps. It completely could have been that we were tired, so our perceptions were skewed, but I definitely got an awful vibe from one staff member repeatedly. Though, I’m sure I wasn’t too much fun the first day we were there. This is when all of the socializing got to this introvert, and I just wanted to bury my head in the sand. I should have just said words to that effect, but instead I just withdrew. Again, probably more info than you guys need about a stranger’s personality, but I’m sure there’s someone like me that may read this and not make my mistake. Just say you need alone time! This camp had some games in the common area, so we played some Jenga and Boggle, which was so much fun. My mom freaks out trying to get those Jenga blocks out of that wobbly tower. Dinner started with a riddle, which I loved. First to get it right gets to eat first. I was 2 for 2! I love me some games, so those kept me pretty happy here.

We were of course so sad to leave. We’re thinking of going back maybe in 2009... Again thanks to all of you for your help in the planning, and for helping to keep our excitement running with your great trip reports and photos.

safarichuck

PerpetucalStudent,
We were at Chitabe Trails in June and Newman was our guide as well. We thought he was fantastic and found things as iff my magic. Also he has a good sense of what is needed for photography, somthing I really appreciated. About your question as to why the males would kill thir own cub. Sometimes males do this to force the females to go into estrous so that they will be willing to mate. Apparently if the testoterone levels in the males is sufficiently high, they will behave in this manner, just as would a coalition of newly arrived bachelor males that had newly taken over a pride. I'm sorry you didn't find Chitabe Trails quite as good as the other camps, we stayed at Savuti and Kwetsani and really found everything about the same. Perhaps it was the family style tent you were assigned? Likewise, we thought the food was great and none of us (4) got sick at Chitabe Trails. I did treat people who had become ill at the other two camps though. I discovered the likely cause in both instances and it was not the food. By the way, you write a great trip report.
Regards-Chuck

atravelynn

So far I’ve only looked at your photos in reverse order. I’ll read the report later.

You had an excellent assortment of locations. I see you stayed overnight at the hide in Chitabe. You saw the sable at Vumbura! Your photos from the mekoro are lovely shots of what the water has to offer. Nice Malachite Kingfisher! Savuti came through. Some cool aerial shots and even cooler cheetah shots in such beautiful golden light. That leopard in the tree looks quite youthful. You even saw the dogs. The group of them lying down looks like a tapestry. Shumba had the hippo action and the aerial shot of the buffalo is great. The Chobe River gave you some excellent elephants in and out of the water. You have great photos of the falls and with your aerial view you got to experience them from all angles. I did read that you did not find the microlight to be scary. That is reassuring to those who are considering it.

atravelynn

Now I've read the report. Well done and fun to read. I hope you have shared this detailed account of your adventures with your family.

I also hope your poor brother was successful in passing whatever he was studying for. What a burden on safari.

Glad you opted in for Chobe, even though it is more touristed than your other destinations. Out on the water you hardly even notice the other tourists, except for the ones in your boat. That boat trip is unequalled.

How nice your first stop at Shumba made such an impression! Departure tears are a sure endorsement.

Was your first lion sighting on foot? If so, that is a rare treat.

If all the other accolades you bestowed upon Shumba are not enough to generate aboost to their business, the peanuts cooked on a shovel will do it. Very clever.

We agree on 2 nights at LV is just not enough.

You had some kind of travel day to Savuti. But just in time for the cheetahs!

Can you explain the difference between the Savuti HIDE, WOODPILE, and WATERHOLE? Is the woodpile hide one way to view the waterhole, but you can also just see it from camp?

Your family has joined the Newman fan club! Your Chitabe walking trails hide description is certainly not more info than we wanted. That's the stuff people are most concerned about and want to know all the details. Fortunately 3 of you were not sick while staying there.

You had an outstanding trip. Did I see 2009 as a return date?

<b>Hdaum,</b> If you are taking unfamiliar photo equipment, you should plan on lots of practice before you go.

<b>Dana</b>, Your camera comments could have been my camera comments.

PerpetualStudent

...I'm visiting my parents this weekend, and my mom shared that she's read this thread and loves all of your comments! Thank you!

safarichuck, thanks for the info re: male lions killing their own cubs. So it is just due to a high level of testosterone; they want to mate? We did love Chitabe Trails for the quality of game that we saw, and of course the hide. That overrides anything else I included in the trip report The little negatives could have been attributed to us more than to the camp... who knows. I'm curious, what was the cause of the ill people you treated? Thanks for the complement re: report writing. I'm glad I had the opportunity to do so; none of us wrote much while we were there, too much to look at.

atravelynn, I love your recap of the photos! We did luck out with those leopard brothers in the beautiful sunset. I don't think the photos do that moment justice, though, of course.

Re Savuti:
<b>Water hole</b> - right outside of camp, you can see it from the deck of most cabins, and the main camp. They pump it once a day or so, so there's always water, and usually lots of animals.

<b>Woodpile hide</b> - next to this water hole, there's a hide you can sit in to get closer to the animals. But while we were there, it seemed as if you'd have to be there all day, waiting for the big eles to move on. Combining this with feeling so close to the animals from camp, we didn't even consider going into the hide. Next time! Because as napamatt says in this thread, it is amazing to be so close, in the hide...

The <b>hide</b> is a large (compared to the Chitabe hide at least) structure close to another pumped watering hole, away from camp. We visited it on a few game drives. I'll see if I can post a photo.

Re: Newman, I told my closest friend, who works at the National Geographic Channel that he was our guide and her jaw dropped. She hasn't been to the area, but she had definitely heard of him! He is a big help to many, finding those dogs for film crews etc. Apparently, he has a whole room full of negatives and photos at home in Maun. We were encouraging him to publish a book.
Oh yes my brother passed that test! (One of the CPA exams). He didn't really study on the trip though. Those photos were more of a joke to show his boss.

On a slightly related note, my mom, dad, and I are avid readers, and we hardly read on the trip. I brought about 5 books, thinking I could pick up more at the camps, but I didn't finish a single one. There's really too much to look at, that none of us wanted to waste our eyeballs in a book. Unless it was a guide book or something. Anyway, just a thought to anyone packing for a trip out there. - Though I slept during most siestas, while others might use that as reading time. But late nights, early mornings, I had to find sleep somewhere...

Oh, re: 2009, I'm hopeful. Honestly, it is an incentive to finish this grad degree and make some money again so I can fund my own trip. I'm also looking into doing some volunteer/really low pay work in southern africa next summer, probably teaching. If anybody has some leads, please let me know! I've really got this Africa thing under my skin, and want to return ASAP. Meanwhile, my mom and I are starting to think about the 2009 family trip (who knows if it will happen though) - maybe doing some real camping, combined with some of the established camps. The hide definitely helped us think about the real camping thing. We'll start here in the forums, reading about self drives, etc. I love this site.

atravelynn

So there are really 3 options to view the animals at waterholes. When you mention the woodpile hide might require you to stay all day, why is that? Because you would be next to the elephants when you enter and exit?

I often do the same thing with books on safari. I usually end up finishing about only one.

safarichuck

PerpetualStudent,
In a perfect world testosterone surges would not occur but biology and evolution don't always work that perfectly. For whatever reason, when these adult males have such a surge they will become very agressive and do anything to mate. Some wildife biologists believe that the color of the mane is an indicator of testosterone. That is, the blacker the higher the levels. I really don't know how much research has been done on this but I would think changes in coat color would show up to slowly to be a reliable indicator. When we were at Savuti in early June, the Woodpile Hide was closed. They told us the elephants were to agressive and they would charge the vehicle when they tried to insert us. I was most disappointed but I didn't want to do anything that unsafe. In fact the game viewing was so good (cheetah kills, wild dogs-2 days, leopards 2 days, and the lion pride) that I could not have asked for more. we are returning to Savuti next summer. We are also returning to Chitabe Trails (whatever their new name is ?) and hope to see Newman. We did send him a CD with some of our best Chitabe Trails images and some prints for his own collection. I feel as though they were as much his as mine. What a great guide and a nice man. You asked about my safari patients, in both separate cases they had come down with TD (travelers diarrhea). In each case water seemed to be the cause. Both had either drunk the tap water or used it to rinse toothpaste. In both instances their spouses did not become ill and had not used the tap water for either drinking or mouth washing. In one instance the individual had all of the proper drugs but her doctor had not given her any instruction. By the way I saw a thread somewhere on this forum dealing with that same topic. It's unfortunate that many people still beleive that alcohol (vodka, wine, etc) will eliminate or reduce their risk of TD. Studies have shown that it will not but home remedies and folk medicine exist in all cultures.

safarichuck

Sorry, I clicked without signing off.
Regards-Chuck

PerpetualStudent

Chuck, thanks for all of the info. Mane color : testosterone level seems interesting... Yes, it would seem to be an indicator for higher general levels of testosterone rather than for surges, if anything. You've piqued my interest; I'm going to try to track down more info on this. I obviously need more biologist friends.
We had similar game experiences at Savuti; amazing, wasn't it? You are lucky to be returning to the area next year! And how nice to have shared a CD with Newman; I am sure he loved that. And it is true, that the pictures really are shared with your guide. I like that.
Your explanation of the woodpile hide seems about right. We didn't even ask. atravelynn, it did look like eles would always be around, making an exit difficult, as Chuck explains here. The view from the deck is great though! My mom skipped a game drive one morning, but sat and watched everything at the watering hole, so she didn't feel like she missed out too much (though she did miss the dogs).
Have great weekends, everyone.

Momliz

PS, loved your report - thanks for doing it.

One question that I had - why did you pick the gorge swing over the bungee jump? We will only have one night in VF so will have to carefully plan our adrenaline activities. And, the microlight wasn't scary? I have a real problem with heights, but I might give it a try - that's what travel is for, no?. Teen aged son really wants to either gorge swing or bungee jump.

napamatt

It's interesting, most camps suggest that while the tap water is perfectly safe, that they prefer you use bottled water, just in case. Also what can be perfectly safe to people used to it can have different effects on people from thousands of miles away.

safarichuck

Matt,
In general people living in the U.S., Canada, and Western Europe can drink one anothers water without problem. I'm sure there are those, many on this forum, who will claim they have become ill in one western city or country and so they feel any sort of precaution is worthless. They are entitled to their views, I don't share them, as they are not based on science or modern medicine. As far as some larger hotels having safe tap water; if they treat their tap water using &quot;reverse osmosis&quot; and IF their reverse osmosis system is maintained (fresh filter membranes) then that water is safe to drink (potable). As a tourist I have know way of being certain that their central water supply is safe so-why chance it? When I was 20 years old, I was eager to go native in every country I visited, nowadays Im just happy to be a Woss and not miss a day of holiday.
Regards-Chuck

Dana_M

PS,
Thanks for the report on Chitabe. It brings back such fond memories. I met Newman while there. I heard he's fantastic. But I loved my guide, Andrea. I just posted my Chitabe report, so if you want to re-live vicariously, click on my name and it will come up.

I agree with you that the camp is more basic than the others you stayed at, but I think the current camp is the &quot;remodeled&quot; version. Interesting that you mention this, because I did in my report also, before reading yours. Amazing how spoiled we can be after all of that luxury, isn't it?

Ironic that you made the book comment. On my first safari I brought atleast 1/2 dozen novels. With all of that down time, I'd read alot, right? Wrong! Never finished one. This trip I brought only one, and still didn't finish it. Normally I read for an hour or so before going to bed. On safari I find my mind wandering off, daydreaming about what I'd seen that day. When I look back at my book I'm still on the same page!

You had a very different experience with camp staff and management that I did. I am not sure I understood your comment about being introvert. I found both Josephine and Kenny very outgoing and very personable. Were they managing when you were there?