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TZ Report: If there had been a million wildebeest there would have been a hundred million flies,

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TZ Report: If there had been a million wildebeest there would have been a hundred million flies,

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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 09:11 AM
  #41  
 
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"Wow, wow and more wow!"

Totally agree with BostonGal.
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 10:18 AM
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Talk about living vicariously through trip reports!
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 12:26 PM
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Great that you were able to make a last minute camp switch. I liked the bit about the misery to elation ratio of climbing Kili. You'll definitely have to update us if you check in with them in 6 months.

About the instant coffee, all I can say is
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 12:43 PM
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now I understand the intro. This report is a perfect mix of wonderful wildlife sightings, especially babies – I’ve never seen hyena pups – and very detailed practical information.

“Living vicariously”, thanks Kavey for finding the right words.
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 02:03 PM
  #45  
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. One good thing about having to file a trip report is that it is forcing me to write down a travelogue that I otherwise would not have done.
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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Forgot to mention what an intriguing title you had for your post.

Good maneuvering on your part to hang on until the rains. Just in time.

Your lion pride encounter was wonderful!

Fred is a good guy.
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 07:22 PM
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Thanks for the excellent trip report Bat - your time in Ndutu was just a few days after we left. We also spent quite a bit of time watching the lion pride - and those cubs! just adorable. Thanks for letting me re-live this experience.
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Old Feb 27th, 2006, 08:56 PM
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Fabulous report, bat! Can't wait for the end, then I will print out, re-read and put up on the index. What is MKSC though, just want to make sure I get it right in the index?????
Thanks!
Lynda
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 11:26 AM
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Lynda:
MKSC is Mt Kilimanjaro Safari Club. It is also known as Tanganyika Expeditions (that is the name on the vehicles). It is the local operator used by ATR for the non-Nomad portion of the safari. MKSC/Tanganyika owns Olduvai and Ronjo Camps for its exclusive use. They also own Mawe Ninga (in Tarangire). I believe that eben may have said that Mawe Ninga can be booked by other companies--I am not sure.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 11:35 AM
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I guess I am not sure whether Ronjo is exlusive to them--perhaps eben or someone else knows--but for purposes of the index MKSC/Tanganyika Expeditions was the local operator for the non-Nomad portion. Nomad was the local operator for the Nomad portion.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 03:03 PM
  #51  
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Nomad Loliondo Camp

The next morning after breakfast in the dining tent we said good-bye to the camp staff–they all come out to say good-bye--and headed to the Nomad Camp in Loliondo As we drove out of the Ndutu area we watched a jackal family at play, at one point the acacia woodland took on an almost manicured garden appearance, and we passed the turn-off for Olakira Camp (at the muhanga campsite). I was tempted to pull in to see if we could take a look at a tent but it was now down to our TC’s last 2 days of vacation so it would not have been a fair request.

Basically as I understand it, we were driving north along the boundary between the NCA and the Serengeti NP. There were concrete markers periodically identifying the line between the two. We crossed the Naabi Gate road at the “pyramid” welcome sign and continued north. The “road” was really just tracks, very bumpy, and after an hour or so of driving we understood well why the Masai named the area “endless plains.” The total drive time was four hours with about three of that pure driving time. Along the way we ran into a Nomad vehicle heading south. Ken stopped to talk to the driver and we said hello to the family traveling with him. They were leaving Loliondo headed to Ndutu and the guide informed Ken that they had seen lion cubs and leopard while they had been at Loliondo. Seemed promising but I had already decided that even if Loliondo did not have any dramatic moments, our splendid finish at Ndutu would satisfy me.

As we entered the Piaya area, the landscape changed to include some large kopjes with very dramatic trees–a fig tree that worked its roots into the crevices of rock so as to appear that it was rooted directly into the rock. As we drove closer to camp we came across a wildebeest herd that had calved (in the Seronera valley, some had calved but others seemed to be extending their gestation period, holding off for rain and a trip to the southern grass plains).

Arriving at Loliondo camp we received the same cold drink and warm welcome that we had received at the Ndutu camp. Our tents, however, were a bit of a disappointment. It was not merely that they were army green and slightly smaller than the tents at Ndutu, they were much older and shabbier–somewhat stained and mended. Of more concern was that they needed more mending–a “run” in the front screen, some gaps here and there in corners which could permit insect ingress. The shower curtain was stained and the plastic liner torn. Even if we had not had the contrast between the niceness of the Ndutu camp I think that we would have thought that we expected more from Nomad. On the plus side, the staff made the needed repairs immediately and Ken told me that our vehicle had brought new shower curtain fabric that a staff member would be sewing into new curtains. The camp had the same great staff attention to our needs, the same great cooking, and of course, the same great guide. The tents looked out at an acacia studded landscape with the addition of a zebra family who liked to hang out at the camp. (Which reminds me of a Cole Porter song, or my variation on it that is–“you say zeb-ra, I say zee-bra, let’s call the whole thing off”–I had not realized there was a Brit/Am difference in pronunciation. What is that saying–two countries divided by a common language? But, I digress.)

Two of the attractions of Loliondo Camp are that you can go on walks and on night drives because it is located within a private concession. The local Masai have given private concessions to Olakira/Sayari and Wildlife Explorer in the vicinity as well. We went out on our afternoon drive at 5:30 intending to stay out past dark. This meant that we would have another staff member with us who would drive the vehicle so that Ken could be the spotter. Before sunset we saw giraffes (I never tire of seeing them–they seem so other worldly), hartebeest, eland, wildebeest, tommies, impala, a leopard kill in a tree but no leopard, baboons, and dikdik (which are so cute in their pairs). In addition to the umbrella and flat top acacia we were used to, the landscape included whistling acacia and a fair amount of aloe. There was one addition to the landscape that was disturbing–periodically you could see the skeleton of Masai cattle. (You may remember that eben reported in January that the lack of rain had caused Masai from other areas to come into the Loliondo area in search of grazing for their cattle. They and their cattle were long gone but some scattered skeletons were the remnants from that time.) There was no dust (yea!) as it had rained the day before. There were also no other vehicles. I realized that our particular itinerary had taken us in a progression from more vehicles with only on-road driving within time limits (crater, seronera valley) to less vehicles and off-road driving but still time limits (Ndutu) to almost no other vehicles, off-road driving and no time limits (Loliondo).

After dark, Ken used an infra red light which illuminated the eyes of the animals in red without bothering them the way that a spotlight would. As a result we saw our only bushbabies of the trip and African kangaroos–Ken’s joke which I fell for–spring hares (which do hop just like a kangaroo). We saw quite a few impala harems. I wound up calling this our “Night of the Living Dead” game drive because a herd of wildebeest set back into the woodland appeared as a long row of red eyes–a bit spooky. We enjoyed the star gazing we could do from the open hatches of the vehicle. We returned to camp about 8:40 and then went to dinner. Ken said that a guest could choose to have an early dinner and then go out on a night game drive so that they were out later.

Our camp mates that night were a young couple from Chicago. We had fun hearing about their trip which had started in Egypt. One of the things that I noticed in talking to other tourists was that everyone–despite the absence of the migration and the prevalence of the hot dusty weather–had a fantastic time. Everyone’s face lit up when they told their favorite stories about their special sightings–and everyone had incredible special sightings to describe.

The next morning Fred and Mark set out around 7am for a walk–accompanied by Ken, a Masai guide, and an armed guard. Lazy me would meet them for a bush breakfast at the end of their walk. When I had said to Ken that I had decided not to go on the walk but could we have a breakfast in the bush like we had done at Ndutu and I would ride out for that, he expressed disappointment-- I had spoiled his surprise. I did not fully appreciate what he meant until I arrived at the breakfast location–one of the beautiful kopjes--and was surprised after all to find that this would not be a simple bush breakfast like Ndutu at all. There were at least three staff members there creating an acacia fire over which to cook, setting up a full scale dining table with regular camp chairs, and a buffet table to hold juice, fruit, cereal, yoghurt, and of course, fresh coffee. We would have an elegant “out of Africa” breakfast complete with eggs cooked to order when Fred, Mark, and Ken arrived.

I could see the red cloth of their Masai guide from a distance so I was able to watch them approach for quite a awhile. As they came closer I struck my very best Meryl Streep pose (I was wearing a long khaki travel skirt with a cream linen shirt, left forearm draped across my forehead shielding my eyes, right arm extended vertically in a languid wave) so that Fred could take the picture of me standing next to the breakfast tables with the kopje in the background. Look at me, look at me!! But they didn’t–they kept chatting and looking at things on the ground so I guess the perfect picture will have to remain only in my imagination..

That afternoon would be our last game drive at Loliondo; the next day we would be leaving first thing in the morning for the three hour drive to the seronera airstrip. Mark decided to stay in camp. One of the things we liked about being at Loliondo was that since you did not have to be back in camp by 7pm, you could be out on a game drive as the light softened at the end of the day and went into sunset and beyond. We saw a herd of wildebeest and what made it special was that it was only Moms and calves. There was literally a calf for every female. My main recollection of the drive was that it was a splendid display of antelope and it seemed like a setting for a midsummer night’s dream–elands, impala, grants, tommies, and dikdiks in a forested landscape. All we needed were some fairies and elves–or perhaps, a la Fantasia, some centaurs and fauns. At one point I had almost a pang of guilt that I should be disappointed that I was not seeing cats–but I wasn’t disappointed. It was lovely in the suffused light of dusk. [oops, I guess that I am already editing the memory--just remembered one thing that was not so lovely–Ken had maneuvered closer to a herd of Elands, Fred stood up to take a photo but before he could focus he cried out, I am being attacked–it was the dread tse, tse flies. Surprisingly, because I am a mosquito magnet, they did not bother me, preferring Fred and Ken). But back to it being lovely–we rode back standing on the seats, with a light breeze blowing in our faces, as we watched the sunset.

When we arrived back in camp we learned that Mark had just finished watching his own sunset tableau. There had been what seemed like an endless stream of wildebeest walking single file across the horizon.

For our last dinner, we were pleased to have Emmanuel back with us. He had picked up new clients at Seronera that day and brought them to Loliondo. The new guests had recently sold their house in the Cotswolds because of too many tourists and had moved to Scotland. They were avid salmon fishers and told us some very interesting stories about salmon fishing in Russia–complete with some rather harrowing descriptions of bullet riddled helicopters for transport. She had climbed Kili in the past so we were able to add to our collection of Kili climb stories. One theme seems to have emerged–it is hard to predict who will have the most difficulty on a climb–fitness not always being the best predictor. The Chicago couple had been on a visit to a local boma which they described as a highlight of their trip, enjoying particularly dancing with (or attempting to dance with) their host family. In all we would be a “full house” for dinner–7 guests and 4 guides. These dinners at Nomad camps seemed like a jovial dinner party every night with interesting people to meet–including the guides. [As an aside, I do not think you would have the same feeling at an Olakira/Sayari camp The greater size would foreclose a single dinner table plus the guests would be there with guides from different companies–in fact, would the guides eat with the guests there? I do not know.] In any event, we enjoyed thoroughly the social company of the other guests and the guides. Having the guides with us at dinner gave us an opportunity for conversation that we did not have in the vehicle not only because of sitting in different rows but also because we were concentrating on the animal viewing.

The next morning, after good-bye and thank-you to the staff, we left for the long drive to the airstrip. This time Ken took a slightly different “road” through the Serengeti arriving on the Naabi Gate road closer to the actual gate. The drive had been very bumpy and a repeat of the scenery and game we had seen on the drive in but we did get to see a very new born gazelle–we had missed the birth by moments, Mom had not even yet cleaned up the baby. We watched only a few moments so that Mom’s anxiety about our presence would be short-lived. We had been lucky it seemed to me in having a trip full of young ones.

Once back in the Serengeti NP it was not long before we saw lions. The male and three females were sitting and dozing under a tree right by the side of the road. We were the first vehicles to pull up and it seemed as if we could reach out and touch them. As we drove away, Fred requested that he be able to see a running cheetah (when we had seen the cheetah kill the week before he had looked at the oncoming herd for just a moment —unfortunately it was the moment the cheetah sprang). A few minutes down the road Ken obliged by spotting three cheetahs under a tree- a Mom and two adolescents. The adolescent male started to run–well, it was more of a lope but it would have to count. Not bad for a drive to the airport!

We arrived at the airstrip–the first thing we noticed was that there are no scales to weigh luggage. With no Zanair plane in sight as we neared our departure time, Ken checked with the Nomad office--they had confirmed our flight with Zanair (a nice touch I thought). The empty plane arrived, our luggage placed on board, hugs and handshakes with Ken and then we boarded ourselves. The plane took off, banked and passed again by the parking lot. Looking down we could see that Ken had waited and was waving at us. Sadly we waved back, sorry to be saying good bye to him and sorry that are safari had ended.

Next, some R and R in Zanzibar
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 03:25 PM
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Bat,
I just want to add my thanks to you. I am so enjoying your wonderful writing. You are a real story-teller. You accounts are leaving me salivating for our trip in June. We will be in the Serrengeti and the Masai Mara as well as other places and I can't wait. Thanks again for sharing.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 03:36 PM
  #53  
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marty:
Thanks for the comments--lucky you going in June. I'll be needing some trip reports then so I can look forward to yours.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 03:42 PM
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bat,
We cried on the flight to Zanzibar. That's how sad we were that the safari was over and we had to say goodbye to our guide and cook. Strange, isn't it?

Anyway, GREAT report! I love the idea of you doing your best Meryl Streep and no one even noticing. Sheesh.

I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts about Zbar.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 04:02 PM
  #55  
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hey leely, yeah I am still sad--kind of milking the trip by writing about it though.

Just think, that will be YOU at the Nomad camp in June--you will love it. I asked Ken how Nomad felt about requests for specific guides and he said they like it--so request away. If not Ken, Emmanuel would be great also.
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Old Feb 28th, 2006, 05:19 PM
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Still have the Meryl Streep-esque image in my mind. You ended your safari on a strong note with the jackal and cheetah families. Thank you for a very enjoyable entertaining report. Well done.
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Old Mar 1st, 2006, 04:48 AM
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I chuckled at the Meryl Streep reenactment. Did you bring the skirt/blouse especially for that purpose?
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Old Mar 1st, 2006, 06:06 AM
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I loved the description of the “setting of a midsummer night’s dream”. Cats are a bonus, everything is perfect, and in East Africa you always get plenty of bonus on next game drive. The Meryl Streep pose is a perfect description of a kind of disappointment that’s more common. Beautiful trip report.
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Old Mar 1st, 2006, 09:15 AM
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It just gets more magical as it goes on, doesn't it?
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Old Mar 1st, 2006, 09:30 AM
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bat, once again a great installment.
Like the others, I love your effort at the Meryl Streep photo op.

I am starting to feel guilty, I am STILL only on day 4 or 5 of my trip report and I've been home for over 3 weeks!

Looking forward to your review of Z'bar.
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