Leely

Yes, I'm with Dana--let's hear more. This is great.

Isn't it strange (and when I say "strange" perhaps I mean alienating and off-putting) to arrive at a lodge where one's guide isn't welcomed?

Calo

Raelond, I'm really enjoying your trip report so far.

I have to agree about the hard beds at the Ngorongoro Serena. In fact, I find all Serena property beds hard.

Your lovely descriptions of the parks and all that you saw are taking me back. Please keep the report coming!

raelond

Dana we didn't spend much time at Kirurumu, as we arrived about 5:30pm and left early the next morning. The tents were nice, the food was good and it was a good place to spend the night.

raelond

After an early breakfast we arrived at the crater gate at 6:30am and were the second vehicle down on the Serena side. It was wonderful to be in the crater as dawn was breaking. We found it hard to believe how huge the crater floor is. We came upon a elephant with a broken tusk and another one with huge tusks. The one with the huge tusks decided to stand on his back legs while reaching up into a tree with its trunk. It was wonderful to watch this huge animal balance on two legs. As we were watching this elephant, the other elephant came over to our vehicle and was almost touching it. This was unnerving and exciting at the same time. It was nice watching this scene without other vehicles around. We were surprised at how close the animals came to our vehicle. I could have reached out and touched zebras. Many zebras had young and many hadn't had their babies yet. We watched many baby zebras suckling, which was a wonderful sight. I had heard about lions in trees and had never seen this before, so we were delighted when we came across a lioness sleeping in a tree. We watched mating lions, as three lionesses slept further away from the action. We were very happy to see 6 rhinos, including a baby during our morning visit. They were a ways off and our guide told us that many roads have been closed in the crater and it makes it harder to get close to many animals now. We saw an amazing variety of animals and birds. There wasn't too many vehicles in the crater, but we did notice a few small vehicles jammed with 6 or 7 people. I couln't help noticing the safari name, Fun Safari. I thought how nice it was for just the two of us, along with our guide, to have this large Land Cruiser to ourselves. We left the crater about 12:00pm for the drive out and the road going out was far worse than the road going down. We had another visit to the crater the next morning, so we had lunch and then went on a two hour hike around the crater rim. Our guide for the hike was a Masaai who explained the different uses of plants and the reasoning behind why Masaai have their two bottom teeth missing. Lock jaw was once very common and if the two bottom teeth are removed they could roll up a leaf and feed a person through the gap in the teeth. We learnt a great deal about their culture and it was a wonderful change from sitting in a vehicle. That evening we sat on our deck and watched an amazing lightening show in the distance.

We decided to leave the lodge at 7:30am for our second visit to the crater. As Herman was registering at the gate, Masaai came up to our vehicle selling jewelery. I bought a few braclets for $5. each. We came upon a cheetah lying in the grass and as we continued on we saw four bat-eared foxes. We saw rhino again and a total of 10 lions. The highlight of the day was watching a pride of lions very close to the road. One male kept very close to a female and followed her as she moved about. He kept himself between her and the other male at all times. The pride of two males and 6 females came right up to the parked vehicles and lay down in the shade of the vehicles. As I was watching out my open window, the one male got up, backed himself up to our vehicle, right below my window and proceeded to mark it. I could have reached out and touched him as he let out a steady stream of urine. After watching two vehicles get stuck on a muddy road we turned around and went another way. We came upon a beautiful black maned male with a female close to the road. We watched as they mated and got some amazing pictures. After visiting the hippo pool we had lunch in our car. I was prepared for the horrible bathrooms, but not for having the door fall off while I was in the cubicle. We left crater and were thankful to have the opportunity to visit such a beautiful place.

Dana_M

Thanks for the response on Kirurumu.

You had two fantastic mornings in the Crater. I bet it was beautiful at day break.

You saw a fair number of babies, and also a lot of lion activity. I've only heard about tree climbing lions, I've never actually seen one. The lion marking his scent on your vehicle must have been a little unnerving.

I bet watching lightening over the Crater was quite a show. Glad you had such good sightings here and a great walk with your Masaai guide.

raelond

I've been having second thoughts about finishing this report as my report sounds so similar to other reports on Tanzania recently. However, I will continue!

The drive to Ndutu Lodge was wonderful, despite the road. We celebrated our anniversary of twenty years with a gin and tonic before dinner, while watching one of the most beautiful sunsets we've ever seen. We were rather surprised to see genets above us while we had dinner. The next morning we came upon a pride of lions sleeping in some bushes. We can't believe how many lions we've seen on this trip! After spotting two owls in a tree and nearing running over a turtle we went back to the lodge for lunch. In the late afternoon we couldn't believe our luck when we came upon a lioness and four cubs, about three weeks old. The scene was absolutely beautiful. The cubs were on a grassy area with thick bush behind them. The mother watched from the bush as her cubs played with each other. The vegetation in the area was lush and green, the sun was shining through the clouds and as we watched this wonderful scene a rainbow appeared. When we thought the scene couldn't get more beautiful, the moon came out. The moon, a rainbow and a family of lions all at the same time! We enjoyed watching the cubs interact with each other and their mother for over an hour, with no other vehicles in sight.

The next day the weather was much cooler and we saw another lion and a large number of wildebeast and zebra. We saw vehicles in the distance and when we got closer we saw five vehicle watching cheetah. We decided to wait from a distance until some of the vehicles left. Shortly all the vehicles left except one and we watched two cheetahs for over an hour. They walked about, drank from a stream and marked a tree. It was great to see their powerful bodies, as the cheetah we saw in Botswana slept while we watched them. Dark storm clouds were gathering and as we were in an area of silt type soil, our guide thought it best we head back to the lodge. After lunch we left for Olakira. The rain started and we couldn't believe it could rain that hard in Africa. We thought we were at home! While Herman was at the ranger station, we waited in the vehicle. The thunder was so loud and it was raining so hard you couldn't see very far. All of a sudden lightening struck not more than 200 meters away from our vehicle. The road to Olakira was flooded, but we made it without getting stuck. The camp was not a pretty sight when we arrived. The rain had stopped, but there was water and mud everywhere. We relaxed in our tent until the late afternoon, then went out and saw two male lions (one black maned) and one female. We later saw two other lions. Dinner was excellent. The food was much better than Ndutu Lodge. We heard lions roaring during the night and slept well in a wonderfully comfortable bed.

MyDogKyle

Thanks for continuing your report, Raelond! I've been hoping to hear about the rest of your trip and thought maybe I missed it.

atravelynn

Similarity is no problem! The good sightings you had show consistency the consistency of the wildlife viewing for anybody delving into Tanzania reports in hopes of a trip.

Glad you had your lion and cheetah show before the showers.

Dana_M

Raelond, all northern circuit TZ trip reports are not the same. Each individual brings his/her different experiences to the page. For example, I don’t recall anybody else mentioning the moon, a rainbow, and a family of lions all at the same time! Celebrating your 20 year anniversary with the most beautiful sunset you’d every seen is very fitting. You seem to have been a lion magnet on this portion of your trip. I hope I’m that lucky next year when I’m in the same are around the same time.

Please continue….

Elizabeth_S

raelond - I'm so enjoying your report - I'm just starting to plan a trip for early 2009. Could I ask you a few questions.....

- my husband has a dodgy back - not terrible but we have to take it into account for travel planning. How hard was the driving? How long was it very rough - and how rough was it?

- it sounds as though Herman was a private guide - how did you arrange that - directly with Green Footprint?

- We are also considering Zambia and South Africa (possibly all at the same time - we are also Canadians and we could spend up to two months in AFrica) - how would you compare the destinations?

Thanks for any help you can provide - I'm just starting planning so I'm probably asking really basic questions!

raelond

Elizabeth, the worst road we were on was to Lake Eyasi and I found the road to Arusha National Park rather bad. Our driver was very cautious and took his time, not like some drivers I saw who drove too fast for the road conditions. Our guide works for Green Footprint and was wonderful. I booked the trip directly with Green Footprint in Arusha. We went to Zambia and Botswana two years ago and it was wonderful. However, if I can ever afford to go back to Africa, my husband and I agree that we will be returning to Tanzania.

Calo

Raelond, I'm so pleased to be reading the rest of your report. It's a lovely descriptive read and fun to hear about your experiences. Please keep it coming!!

bat

Raelond:
Just caught this--great. ditto with lynn-please continue.

Leely2

Glad you started back up again, raelond. Thank you--and please do continue.

atravelynn

That's quite an endorsement for Tanzania! And for Green Footprint!

raelond

We headed out for an early morning game drive to Nabi Gate and the migration could be seen in the distance from the view point. We drove to the Gol Kopjes and were surrounded by zebra and wildies. A mass of black could be seen in every direction. It was an unbelieveable sight. We were literally driving through animals that jumped out of our way, just like one sees on tv shows about the migration. Herman said there were over a million animals, as there was no end to the mass of black. We found two lions lying on a kopje and one started to chase a wildebeast. The other lion joined her, but they didn't seem very hungry and they soon gave up. The migration is truly an amazing sight, with amazing sounds. We got back about 1:30 for a wonderful lunch. After a bush shower and a rest we went out again in the late afternoon looking for a leopard which was known to be in the area. That leopard eluded us the entire three days we were at Olakira camp. During dinner it started to rain heavily and we were beginning to think we might have rain the entire four days we had left in Tanzania.

Despite the rain all night we slept well and left camp about 10:00 with box lunches. The plan was to see the migration again. We got stuck near the camp and six of the staff had to dig us out. On our way to Nabi Gate we saw a young lioness laying in the grass calling for her pride. She seemed to have become separated from them. We were surprised at how much distance the migration covered overnight. At the Gol Kopjes we once again saw lions on the rocks sleeping. We followed two cheetah as they calmly walked through the migration as if on a mission. Every day we see hyena and jackal and today we also saw eland and topi. Our last day at Olakira ended with another wonderful meal and good conversations with other guests.

Elizabeth_S

raelond - thanks for the reply - the more I read the more interested we are in Tanzania and a private guided tour - I fear I'm starting late for next year but am trying to get it together. Would you be comfortable telling me the cost of your Green Footprint tour - if you prefer you could email me at

eseibertca AT yahoo DOT ca

I'm just trying to figure out if it's even affordable from the outset............thx

atravelynn

Great Serengeti sightings. As others have noted, I believe lions are employed as gatekeepers because we all see them there.

Dana_M

A "mass of black" as far as the eyes can see, in all directions. It can't get any better than that. I'm sorry the leopard eluded you, but cheetahs, topi, and eland in addition to the migration. As Lynn said, you had some great sightings.

Thank you for continuing your report Raelond. Those of planning trips really are quite interested. And, even when not planning it is fund to read about others' trips.

raelond

It rained during the night, but not as much as the first night we arrived at Olakira. After a good breakfast we left at 8:15 for Suyan camp. It was good to leave the mud and dampness behind. All the staff came out to say goodbye. As we headed north, the road was very bumpy with lots of water. We saw buffalo, thompson gazelle, eland and hyena as we drove into the Lolindo area. We stopped the vehicle to watch two jackals chasing a wild cat until it went down a hole. The drive continued through green short grass, over beautiful, rolling hills towards the Gol Mountains. Not a vehicle in sight! We drove up a hill to a ridge and out of nowhere two staff members of Suyan camp appeared. We had to walk down the other side of the hill through a natural rock path to the camp. Here we had an emotional farewell to our wonderful guide Herman. We continued on another rock path to our tent which was beautiful. I knew this camp would be a great place to end our trip to Tanzania and I was not disappointed. The tents were wonderful, spacious and elegant. The view from the tent was of the green, rolling hills. We had an outstanding lunch and met the manager Simon who was very personal. In the late afternoon we went for a walk for about two hours with our camp guide and a Maasi. After drinks by the fire we had an amazing dinner with the manager and another couple. Sleeping was wonderful with the sound of lions during the night.

We were surprised to find out that the Lolindo area is owed by the Saudi's who in an agreement with the Tanzania government about 32 years ago, signed a 100 year lease with the government.

We awoke to beautiful sunshine and after a great breakfast we went for a walk with Lucas and our Maasi guide to the rock painting that are over 3,000 years old. We then went to a Maasi boma where we were able to go inside one of the huts where a young mother was nursing her baby. We saw lots of children who seemed to have colds and one little girl whose eyes were crusted over and flies were sitting on her eyelids. We had walked for over three hours and on the drive back to camp be saw zebra, wildies, eland and giraffe. The next morning we went for a game drive and saw lot of giraffe, including babies. Wild dog haven't been seen here in almost a month and many dogs had been poisoned further north by the Maasi. Off roading is allowed here and we had a great morning seeing caracal and about 400 eland. We had a tour of the kitchen, which is a tent up a rock pathway. It's amazing that the cook can make such impressive dishes in such a kitchen. In the late afternoon we headed up a hillside for sundowners. The camp was full this night and we had a barbeque with ribs, chicken, sauage and beef.

We had to be up at 5:30am in order to get to the air strip for our flight to Arusha. On the way we saw hyena, wildies, zebra, lion and cheetah. It was a wonderful way to finish our trip. We spent the afternoon at the Kia Lodge and then went to the airport for our flight home. There was a wonderful shop at the Kili airport and the prices were good. Our eight hour layover in Amsterdam went fast as I had money left and had fun shopping at the great stores there. It was a wonderful trip, with amazing memories.