OnlyMeOirish

Lynda, that camera incident must have put a real dampner on your day but I'm really glad that Daniel came up trumps... he really sounds like nothing would be a trouble for him.. and then to find your money gone, that was definately not one of your better days but you definately have the right attitude.

Those showers sound 'interesting' too!

Imelda

matnikstym

another great chapter Lynda! Thanks! i'm enjoying your trip. too bad about the camera, but nice of you to replace it. Keep it coming!

atravelynn

I feel like I am right there with you for the many lion sightings, the young hyena, the leopard through the binocs. Your quotes are marvelous, including the one you made up.

Recovering the passport that was left behind and overcoming the camera problem is the mark of a great guide and outfitter.

I am sorry about the loss of your money. Thank you for including that unpleasant detail as a learning experience for the rest of us.

LyndaS

Thankyou aowens, for that recipe. We have to make a cherry pie this weekend (cherry season here, you know) but next weekend - macadamia flan it is! And, I do hope that this report is bringing you good memories of your trip.

Carolines- well, the idea was a good one really on the chocolate, had I remembered I had it. I certainly would have eaten it before it even got half a chance to melt, but, I forgot all about it!

Bat- caught up yet? - you are mentioned in this report a couple of times I think.

Dennis - I keep forgetting to mention HOW I used the mini tape and the mini stapler. Well, at one point we were given some wonderful bone (looks like ivory but I know it isn't) butter knives with a giraffe painted on the end, as well chopsticks (?) and small spoons to match. So, I took my bubble wrap, wrapped them well and used the tape to hold the bubble wrap around the gifts. Almost ran out tape doing that (it really was a 'mini' roll) - and one end wouldn't stay closed around the chopsticks, so I stapled it at that end!!! Worked like a dream and the spoons, chopsticks and butterknives look great all in one piece on my table. I also used that little mini stapler to staple all of the bills (laundry, drinks) together at one of the lodges as they handed them to me in a loose pile when I paid! See, everything a purpose, and a purpose to everything as mom used to say.....

Hausfrau- I am so excited for you! (and wish I was going again...) You will love the trip, Micato really puts on an incredible safari - all you guys will have to do is be in the lobby at whatever time your director tells you, and sit back, relax and enjoy the animals and the incredible learning experience. Are you on the Zanzibar extension, and, will you guys participate in the America Shares program?

OHMIGOSH, I wish I was back in Africa....

Thankyou so much Lynn for your kind comments - hey you must be off pretty soon on your trip, right??

Imelda - WOW - 5 days to go now! I will try and get as much written as I can for you! <b>You must be SO excited!!!<b></b></b>

TheMac

Lynda,

As I sit here, finishing my second cup of tea, I want to say thank you for a really great trip report. We live in Namibia and truly enjoy seeing the animals, just as often as we can.

We are waiting excitingly for our trip in December 2006 to Masai Mara, Samburu, Lake Nakuru, Nairobi and Zanzibar all arranged by Sandi. We just can't wait to see that part of Africa!

Thanks again,
Bill

OnlyMeOirish

Oh Yes Lynda, I am SO SO excited. I've got a serious case of 'butterfly tummy' . I haven't actually started packing yet because if I do I KNOW I'll be second guessing and pulling things out and putting things back in. I've laid some of it out in the spare room though and I have the washing machine getting things ready for taking with me -we're having a 'heat wave' here right now and I've worn some of the stuff I'm taking to Africa! So I guess we will be ready for the heat (it's actually around the same temperature in Nairobi / Nakuru as it is here right now ).
I have gotten Kennedy a really nice Parker pen &amp; pencil set and have a nice pampering set for his wife but I'm a little stuck on what to take the kids. I thought about some little 'dress up' cosmetic things but that may not be such a good idea. I will definately take some chocolate, what about cute hair ties, note books etc.. any other ideas??

Sorry Lynda, I've just run away with myself on your thread, hope you don't mind, it's all that excitement . If you get a chance, I'd love to read some more about your trip..and if you don't then it will be something to look forward to when I get back

Imelda

Imelda

Patty

Another great installment, thanks Lynda! And the use of the mini stapler and tape is finally revealed

Bill,
What days will you be in Samburu. We're staying at Larsens camp Dec 2nd &amp; 3rd. Just curious if we cross paths.

aowens

Lynda - just wanted to add I topped the macadamia flan with fresh whipped cream and i must say it was even better!

Leely

Lynda, so sorry about the money. But reading your report makes me think you're a &quot;life gives you lemons, make lemonade&quot; traveler. Who else would be thankful for having a rash (rash=no tsetse bites)?

I'm very much enjoying taking this journey with you and Jim and the rest of the Micato gang.

waynehazle

<i>OHMIGOSH, I wish I was back in Africa....</i>

Yes that sums it up quite well

hausfrau

Lynda,
We are not going on the Zanzibar extension because our time is limited, but we are interested in the America Shares program, so I will be interested to hear if you did it what you thought of it.

Everything you've said about Micato is EXACTLY why we chose them - this is our first trip to Africa and whereas normally I NEVER travel on tours, this time we wanted everything done just right and didn't want to worry about planning a thing! (One reason for this is that my husband and I are currently expats living in Germany - hence my screen name, in case you were wondering - where just getting along with day-to-day life can be a bit difficult sometimes, so we wanted our Africa trip to be totally worry-free!) Suffice it to say that I'm thrilled to hear you rave about Micato. (I just wish I could hug the cheetahs too - that sounds incredible!) Oh, but I do hope we don't get the room with no curtain in the bathroom window! ;-)

Can't wait for the next chapter!

LyndaS

Patty-
What did I miss when I was away - are you going to East Africa and not South Africa now? Or did I muddle up something in my head and get you mixed up with someone else - sorry if I did!

Patty

Lynda,
I think you may have gotten me mixed up with someone else. My final itinerary is in this thread http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34781265

I've changed my flights (and actually it's since changed again to AMS-ATL-LAX) so sorry we won't be able to meet for coffee at YVR!

LyndaS

Sorry Patty! Maybe I was thinking of Lisa? I just recall someone saying they were going to South Africa this time around?? I hadn't read the last part of your post as it was while I was away, sorry we won't get to have that coffee - I was looking forward to meeting you! Well, you never know, you just may have to fly through here some other time - and I will always make myself available when you do!

Your itinerary sounds heavenly though, I can't wait to read all about some of those camps, a few I don't recall seeing any reports on.

Hausfrau -
Yes, we did the America Shares program - it would be hard to describe in one sentence - but yes, if you can, you should do it. I will post details about it in a few days - once I get caught up here...

TheMac

Patty,
We'll miss you at Samburu...we are there 21 &amp; 22 December, then on to Masai Mara Intrepids for Christmas! We are really looking forward to this trip. We have quenched our thirst for Safaris by travelling all over Namibia since our arrival 2 years ago.

Bill

carolines

Lynda, Could you please tell me exactly what are &quot;zap straps&quot;? Where do you find such things? Thanks!

Still waiting on pins and needles for the next episode! Eager to hear your observations on the &quot;tented camp&quot; experience!

Patty

Bill,
Hope you have a great trip!

LyndaS

Carolines-

Zap straps are those white (or various colours now) things that electricians use to hold wire together. They have one way teeth - once you do them up, they do not come undone unless you cut them. People began using them to secure luggage after 9/11 security measures began to disallow locks. The idea was that if someone had opened your bag, you would know because the zap strap was cut - and, there, miracously in your bag was a note that customs had done this.

I guess my plan fell down when I didn't <b>check<b> that someone had either cut the strap, or stripped the tiny teeth, which is what they did in my case. How, I don't know, but Jim tells me it is possible. Then they just do it back up and the person is not the wiser that it has been opened until the strap slips out.

I find these things in Jim's box of wonders, but I have also seen them at dollar stores now. Jim I believe gets them from Home Depot - they are really cheap.</b></b>

LyndaS

DAY 10 – MONDAY JUNE 6TH,2006 KICHWA TEMBO CAMP, MASAI MARA

“I WENT TO AFRICA BECAUSE I DID NOT WANT TO DIE AND DISCOVER THAT I HAD NEVER REALLY LIVED. I KEEP GOING BACK BECAUSE I NEED ANOTHER DOSE OF THE MAGIC. SOMETIMES YOU FIND THE COURAGE TO FOLLOW YOUR HEART TO WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE”
- Shari Meyr, The Tanzania Tales Journal

That quote has been on my wall map, at eye level, right in front of my desk, for a few years now. During the busiest of times, I would gaze up at the map and that quote – so sure that my time would never come. But it did. And it will again – soon I hope.

Today, at one point or other, I learned something new. Something that I must have missed in all my research before this trip – and believe me that was extensive. What was it you ask? Well, I learned that the Maasai ‘people’ are spelled with a double ‘a’ (as in their language ‘Maa’), while the area of land they reside in and our destination today, was spelled ‘Masai’. How I missed that I will never know! I just had to mention that, in case someone missed that in their research too.

We had a fairly early call to leave this morning, at 7:15. Even though I was sad to be leaving the Serengeti, I was really looking forward to the tents at the camp in the Mara, along with # 2 on our list of ‘101 Things To Do Before We Die’ list – take a balloon ride over the Serengeti or Masai Mara. I was really excited about that ride!

It took about an hour to get to the airstrip to catch our flight. Hmmm, what was that on the runway? A giraffe just lumbering down the strip to get to the trees near the ‘open-air control tower’. That made a great picture! We said our goodbyes to Bernard, as he would be driving back to pick up his next set of ‘charges’. Our two planes came in – one 8-seater for the family; and one 18-seater Regional Air twin prop for the rest of us, with the same pilots that we had the other day. We were on a ‘milk run’ today; we flew north to Musoma, Tanzania, on the shores on Lake Victoria. We arrived at 10:00, and cleared outgoing customs by 10:45. By now we had the exit/entry cards down pat. Then, on to a 19-seater wide body twin turbo prop – now we fit everyone (the 18 of the group plus Daniel), we flew to Kisumu, in Kenya, landing about 11:15. After clearing incoming customs this time, we got back on the same plane taking off about 12:00. Forty minutes later we landed at Bateleur/Kichwa Tembo’s private airstrip.

There were three ‘South African’ style vehicles waiting for us – the dark green, fully open 4 tier-vehicle (each bench seat graduates higher than the one in front – the back seat is quite high up) with the canvas roof overhead for sun protection. These belonged to Kichwa Tembo; I thought I had read that all people staying at this camp had to use the camp’s vehicles, but our driver said no when I asked him that. He said you can use any vehicle that you come in, they had no restrictions. It was probably more of a convenience thing then for Micato to use the camp’s vehicles, rather than sending driver/guides all the way out from Nairobi just for the sake of two days.
Our new driver was Benson. We arrived at the camp around 1:00, and went to lunch right away while the camp staff was getting our luggage to our tents. All along we had been noticing that the porters were not using the wheels for the bags, most would pick them up and sling them over their shoulders, but here, they actually used the wheels. Probably because everyone’s bag was getting heavier by the day with ‘shopping’ additions! The lunch, by the way, was the best that we had – it was incredible. BBQ beef kabobs that you actually went out to the BBQ to get, grilled vegetables (mmm, my favorite), salad bar, potatoes and some steamed vegetables as well.

This camp was nothing short of fabulous! Now, I know that many of the Fodorites out there have probably stayed in places that are probably even better than this, but to me, this was incredible. The dining area was open, as well as the bar area. There was a huge gift shop, but I can’t honestly say I even looked at the goods for sale other than to get some film for Audrey &amp; Lucrece’s borrowed ‘film’ camera (yeouch, very pricey by the way – 10.00 USD per roll). The grounds were really nice – very open, lots of space. They were fenced, but the fence was low and didn’t ruin the view of the rolling hills of the Masai Mara. The resident ‘warthogs’ were really cool – heads down constantly, mowing the grass. Before we dispersed for lunch, Daniel warned us not to ‘hug’ or otherwise ‘pet’ the warthogs (probably looking straight at me while he said this) as they were friendly only as long as you left them alone. I had to admit that this was a much more ecological way to mow the grass than a John Deere. There was pool surrounded by lots of lounge chairs, I did occasionally see people swimming and sunning. In front of the restaurant/lounge area there was an open pit camp fire with seats around it, both ‘log type’ and regular wood chairs.
The tents. Wow. They were fabulous! And, they actually were tents – I’m not sure what I was expecting, but I must say I was surprised that they were real tents. Two ¾ beds, a luggage rack, and a desk/vanity was in the main room, with dressers behind the beds. Behind a closable flap at the back was a delightful bathroom – a beautiful stone (not rough though) floor, a vanity dresser/sink combo, a walk in shower, and of course the toilet. The tent was beautifully done up in dark green (fast becoming my favorite colour).

There was a nice little sitting area in the front – almost like a ‘deck’, with two comfy chairs and a small table. In front of the tents in general (not one per tent) were hammocks strung across the trees. I figured if I got in one of those I’d never get out, but they looked comfortable. And lights. Now that I didn’t expect in a tent – again not sure what I expected though! They were strung, as ‘kerosene lamps’ from the ceiling, and as I recall, ‘pulled’ on by a cord.

The tents were all set back amongst the trees, it created ‘atmosphere’, but it did make for a hot tent to some extent. We were in H5; it is set further out from the forest than the others, which gave us a nice breeze. The monkeys (brown-tailed I believe they were called) would romp and play during the day, scampering over the tops of the tents. I laid on the bed and listened to them – wondering if I could just arrange to stay there doing this for the rest of my life. But no, at 3:30 it was time to get up and over to the camp fire spot as a Maasai (the chief’s son) was coming to talk to us before our visit to his village.

Hi name was Andrew (there are a lot of Andrews about, aren’t there?) Andrew spoke to us about their way of life, which, as everyone knows, is far different from ours. And then, off to see his village. It wasn’t far from the camp –there were 2 villages close together, the one on the upper side of the hill was the one we were going to see.

It was a very interesting, and a very eye-opening visit. The huts are completely enclosed by thorn bushes that are built in a circle around them. Each family has its own entrance, Andrew explained, through those bushes. And, even if this was just a ‘tourist’ village now, as soon as I stepped in I could tell that at one time it had indeed been, in the very recent past, a ‘real’ village – the smell of cow dung was very noticeable. And you had to watch where you stepped. The women, in their very colourful kangas lined up for us and sang some songs, pulling us ‘tourists’ in for the second song. Then the older boys of the group – you know those that should have been out goat herding – jumped and danced for us. This was followed by a fire lighting demonstration, which fascinated our young Andrew (from the family in our van) and a visit to a hut. It was quite dark inside; and it didn’t occur to me to take my sunglasses off until we got right in, which didn’t help! As you come inside, the first thing you see is the goat pen in the middle of the hut, where the goats sleep at night. And I thought we were hard done by when the cats take up too much room on our bed at night… Walking around the goat pen, there is a small window with a small fire pit where they do the cooking, and then, around the bend are the ‘bedrooms’. Or, some fair facsimile thereof. The beds are sticks tied together, with a cow skin on top. In the hut that we went in, there was a young child sleeping with an older sibling that was sitting with him/her. There were so many flies on the child, my heart just broke!

Then, it was off to the ‘mall’ to shop. We exited through the other side of the thorn bushes (I can see why they would keep the wild animals out), and there, all spread out were the women with their wares. In some reports from Fodorites I had read that you gathered the articles you were interested in buying and then went in the center to negotiate for all of them, but we didn’t do that. I pointed to 2 bracelets, a young Maasai asked the seller how much, she said 10.00 each, and we came to a quick negotiation, right then and there. (I ended up paying 5.00 for each – well worth it to me, they were nicely done). They really did have some beautiful articles, but, this trip I just didn’t seem in the mood to shop, which was odd for me. Too worried about luggage weight I think, and I already had those beautiful Maasai blankets, and was saving the ‘big’ purchase for a carved lion.

I sincerely believe that this had been at one time, if it wasn’t still, an authentic Maasai village. Maybe I do live in a rose coloured world with too many teddy bears and cats, but this is MY story and sticking to that belief!

From here, we went on a game run before going back to the camp. This is where I discovered that off-roading was the norm here – not that I hadn’t read that in numerous trip reports, but I just hadn’t remembered! It was wonderful to be able to drive closer to the animals, although Benson was very respectful of the animals and never went closer than he thought would disturb them. I was sitting in the front with him on the game drive and had a chance to talk to him – he is a Maasai, and it was very interesting to talk to him about the way of life in his villages. I asked him if he got too used to a comfy bed when he stayed at the camp – he said, ‘well, yes, a bit perhaps’. He did say though that when it was time to go back to the village he got used to the stick/cowhide beds again very fast. The guides work a set amount of months at the camp, and then return home for a break.

On this game run we saw the usual suspects – elephants, impala, gazelles, buffalo, ostrich and ‘nyamera’ – topis. I could see why Suzanne was fascinated with these animals as we drove up close to them. Blue jeans and yellow socks our driver said – easily recognizable. And then, as we were nearing the camp, just as it was getting to be dusk, Benson drove off the road very slowly for a bit and stopped the engine.
‘Look over there’ he said. It was a mom cheetah and, from what we could see, 3 cubs. What a thrill this was!! Up close and personal to our first cheetah! And cubs thrown into the mix! Only trouble was that I could not see them very well as I was sitting in the front (had a little trouble climbing into the van the day before so Benson suggested I sit up front with him), and the view from there was not the greatest to see the little cubs in the tall grass. Benson went to move closer, and now, here guys, is the ONLY time I could have smacked someone else in this wonderful little group of ours!
‘No, don’t go any closer, you will disturb them’ I heard from Sylvia in the back seat (Andrew’s mom). Benson tried to assure her that he does this all the time, he knows how close he can get, but she insisted. OK lady, I thought, you are going over – time to toss you out! She was adamant though, and Benson, who probably had been told the customer is always right, did not go any closer. And me, such a wimp, a person who hates to make waves, stayed silent. Jim had stayed behind this afternoon to catch up on some R &amp; R at that beautiful camp, so I didn’t even have him to come to my rescue and say ‘no, we will go as close as Benson sees fit’, or at the very least – take some good pictures with that fabulous zoom of his. My point and shoot just didn’t cut it. The good news though? I think it was the same cubs Martyc and Janischa from this board saw, so I did get to see their wonderful pictures! Oh, and I didn’t toss Sylvia out of the van.
And that was our day – back to the camp at 7:00 for a wonderful supper of chicken, fish, salads, wonderful vegetables and that incredible macadamia nut flan that I missed! An early night was needed tonight in order to get up for that incredible, exciting balloon ride that I had been anticipating, and yet, at the same time, worrying myself sick over the fact that I may be doing the ‘pee-pee’ dance up there!

LyndaS

Why is it when I bold one word I can't turn it off?

Cyn? Paul? Kevin? Sherry? Hari? Anyone....?